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Table of Content

    15 June 2019, Volume 40 Issue 06
    • Fiber Materials
      Synthesis and characterization of bio-based polyamide 56 oligomer modified polyester
      ZHANG Tengfei, SHI Ludan, HU Hongmei, WANG Yu, WANG Xueli, YU Jianyong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180507007
      Abstract ( 1021 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1759KB) ( 244 )   Save
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      In view of the poor hydrophilicity of polyester (PET), a novel polyamide ester copolymer was prepared by copolymerization modification of PET with bio-based polyamide 56 oligomer (LPA56). Structure and properties of the novel polyamide esters were characterized and analyzed by nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometer, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffractometer and optical contact angle measuring instrument. The results show that the novel polyamide esters have functional peaks of both esters and amides, and the reaction rate of LPA56 is over 80%. The copolymers and polyesters have the same crystal form. However, the crystallinity decreases with the increase of the amount of LPA56 added. The glass transition temperature and melting point of the copolymer gradually decrease with the increase of the amount of LPA56 added, but the thermal stability of the copolymer is less affected. When 5% LPA56 is added, the static contact angle is greatly reduced from 91.5° to 70.3°, and the fiber moisture regain is 265% of the pre-modified PET fiber, and gradually increases with the amount of LPA56 added.

      Preperation and properties of heat-resistant phase change wax/polypropylene blends
      WEI Haijiang, JIANG Li, ZHANG Shunhua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  8-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703006
      Abstract ( 726 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1640KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      To solve low initial volatilization temperature of paraffin wax, phase change wax(PC-WAX)/ polypropylene(PP) blends were prepared by melt blending with twin-screw extruder. The thermal and rheological properties of blends were characterized by differential scanning calorimeter, thermal gravimetric analyzer and twin-bore capillary rheometer. The results demonstrate that the initial evaporation temperature of 20% mass fraction PC-WAX blends is 225.91 ℃. Compared with the initial evaporation temperature of PC-WAX, its value increases and thermal evaporation rate declines. The blends belong to the fluids of shear thinning type. As PC-WAX mass fraction increases, the shear stress, shear viscosity and viscous flow activation energy of blends will gradually decrease. At 180 ℃ and shearing rate of 5 571.21 s-1, the shear stress, shear viscosity and viscous flow activation energy of blends with 20% mass fraction PC-WAX has fallen by 52.9%, 48.6% and 66.3% respectively compared with the pure PP. Furthermore, the structure viscosity index of blends decreases with the increase of temperature and the mass fraction of PC-WAX.

      Structure and properties of keratin film modified by carboxymethyl cellulose sodium
      LIU Shuping, LI Liang, LIU Rangtong, CUI Shizhong, WANG Yanting
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  14-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180701006
      Abstract ( 858 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1735KB) ( 207 )   Save
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      In order to improve film-forming properties of keratin, carboxymethyl cellulose sodium (CMCNa) was used as the modifier and blended with wool keratin to prepare a wool keratin film. The performances of the modified film were characterized by laser microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, thermal properties, etc. The results indicate that the addition of CMCNa makes the structure of keratin membrane much denser, and improves its thermal stability and hydrophobicity. Moreover, its elongation increases from 1.8% to 6.4%, and its degradation in water also increases from 20.4% to 78.6%. However, its strengthen decreases from 35 MPa to 16.3 MPa. The reason is that inter-molecular hydrogen bond interaction between CMCNa and keratin occurs during the blending process, which reduces the intra-molecular hydrogen bonding of keratin. Further, with the addition of CMCNa, the crystal structure of modified membrane changes from the alpha-helical structure of wool keratin to the structure of both alpha-helical and beta-folded crystals.

      Textile Engineering
      Mechanical behavior and energy dissipation of polyvinyl chloride membrane under uniaxial multi-level cyclic loading
      WANG Zexing, ZHU Wenjia, HE Bin, LIU Chao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  20-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180406407
      Abstract ( 645 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (2016KB) ( 125 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the mechanical behavior and energy dissipation of architectural membrane under multi-level loading, the uniaxial multi-level cyclic loading tests were conducted based on the polyvinyl chloride (PVC) membrane, and its deformation behavior, energy dissipation and damage properties were also analyzed. The experimental results show that the peak-strength of warp samples is lower than that of uniaxial tensile strength, and the fill samples is higher that of uniaxial tensile strength under multi-level cyclic loading. Under multi-level cyclic loading, the loading and unloading elastic modulus increase, and the later is higher than former. Compared with warp samples, the fill samples show higher total absorption strain energy, elastic strain energy and dissipated energy at lower loading level, while the indexes are lower at higher loading level. As the PVC membrane is always in viscoelastic plastic stage, it is more reasonable that damage variation is defined based on accumulative plastic deformation, compared with elastic modulus variation and accumulative dissipated energy.

      Effect of structure change of warp-knitted optical fiber sensing fabric on bending loss of optical fiber inlaid
      YANG Kun, LI Meiqi, ZHANG Cheng, GUO Xi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  27-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180804705
      Abstract ( 647 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1405KB) ( 114 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of the fabric structure change of the warp-knitted optical fiber sensing fabric on the bending loss of the optical fiber inlaid during longitudinal stretching, a warp-knitted fiber sensing fabric with a locknit construction as the ground structure and an polymer optical fiber as the inlay yarn was knitted. A section of polymer optical fiber was inlaid into the ground structure in a form of two reverse connected semicircles with a radius of 10 mm, forming a sensing unit. Stitch height, stitch width and fabric thickness under tensile loading were measured, and the signal transmission property of the optical fiber was tested. Experiment results show that the optical fiber can be combined with warp-knitted fabric in the form of weft insertion. During stretching process, yarn sections of the ground structure are transferred and fabric thickness decreases with the increase of the stretching distance. The pressing effect of the knitting yarns on the optical fiber causes the micro-bending loss of the optical fibers, and the microbending and macrobending losses are compounded during stretching process.

      Tearing properties of Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric
      SUN Wan, MIAO Xuhong, WANG Xiaolei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  32-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703206
      Abstract ( 732 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2076KB) ( 77 )   Save
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      In order to improve the mechanical properties of the vamp by rationally configuring the Jacquard structure, eight kinds of Jacquard structure commonly used in vamp materials were adopted to study the tearing properties weftwise and warpwise of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric and some single-layer fabrics. The weftwise and warpwise tearing mechanism, destruction of fabric and the tearing curve characteristics of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric were summarized. The influence of Jacquard structure on the tearing strength of weftwise and warpwise was also researched. When the fabric is transversely torn, the fabric is first broken along the weft direction and then along the warp direction. When the fabric is longitudinally torn, the fabric is destroyed completely in the warp direction. The curve of the weftwise tearing fluctuates greatly, while the warpwise tearing curve is relatively regular. The tearing curve and characteristics are mainly determined by the Jacquard side, and the length of the tearing weftwise is mainly determined by the side with the smaller tear length. The tear strength of Jacquard spacer fabric with a thin structure is minimum either in weft direction or warp direction, which should not be used when the tearing strength of the upper material is insufficient.

      Numerical simulation of heat transfer of carbon fiber fabric under impact of heat flux
      ZHENG Zhenrong, ZHI Wei, HAN Chenchen, ZHAO Xiaoming, PEI Xiaoyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  38-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180704006
      Abstract ( 683 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2087KB) ( 217 )   Save
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      In order to study the heat transfer performance of textile materials under the impact of convective heat flux, taking the carbon fiber plain weave fabric as an example, the geometric parameters of yarn, the weaving path and cross-section shape of warp and weft yarns were obtained by scanning electron microscopy. Then a 3-D structural model of carbon fiber fabric was established. Based on the basic equation of heat transfer, the temperature variation curve in the direction of fabric thickness was solved numerically by finite element method. The results show that the heat transfer numerical model can be adopted to predict the temperature of the fabric back changing with time. It is found by experiments that the variation trend of fabric back temperature obtained with the numerical model is correlated with the experimental results. When heat flux is 1 319 W/m2 and 1 103 W/m2, respectively, the average relative errors of simulated and experimental values of fabric back temperature are 6.64% and 3.28%. It is indicated that the numerical model can better reflect the dynamic heat transfer process of carbon fiber fabric, which can provide an effective theoretical reference for the development of heat protective fabrics under high heat flux in the future.

      Influence of wash load type of drum washer on textile motion and washing performance
      LIU Hong, DING Xuemei, WU Xiongying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  44-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702306
      Abstract ( 669 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1948KB) ( 79 )   Save
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      In order to understand the influence of wash load types on textile motion pattern and washing performance, a high-speed camera was used to record the outline of fabric in the front-loading washer (Haier WH7560P2). The recorded image of the textile was converted into binary image to calculate the textile centroid. According to the trace of textile motion, 8 movement indexes were put forward to characterize the textile motion, and the relationship between movement indexes and washing efficiency was established, which is applicable for the model of Haier WH7560P2. Single experiment design was used to study the relationship between three kinds of wash load and textile motion during washing. The results indicate that textile motion varies with the wash load types. The ratio of passive motion region of cotton wash load is the largest with value of 62% as well as the washing efficiency and rate of fray (44% and 25% respectively). The ratio of passive region, washing efficiency and fray rate of polyester wash load is the least with value of 41%, 39% and 6.6% respectively. Sliding and falling of textile change alternatively in washing period which could improve washing performance.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Synthesis of binder and application in polyester fabric with micro-water printing of disperse blue 79
      AI Li, ZHU Yawei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  50-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503108
      Abstract ( 612 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2202KB) ( 53 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the disperse dye direct printing wastewater emission, the silicone-modified polyacrylate latex as polyester fiber binder was synthesized by the emulsion polymerization using butyl acrylate, styrene, acrylonitrile and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, methacrylic acid and N-methylol acrylamide as reactive monomers. The Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy were adopted to characterize the chemical structure. The function of the silicone-modified polyacrylate binder in micro-water printing process of liquid disperse dye B-79 was investigated. The influence of post-treatment in conventional direct printing and micro-water printing on wastewater properties and color fastness was compared. The results show that the silicone-modified polyacrylates binder applied in directly printing can increase the dye uptake. After washing in hot water at 80 ℃, soaping fastness and dry/wet rubbing fastness are up to 4-5 level by the micro-water printing process. The value of chemical oxygen demand, the amount of residue and the dye concentration of wastewater are 1/20, 1/5and 1/25 of those by direct printing using disperse blue H2GL. Therefore, the proposed process is green and environment-friendly.

      Effect of wool fabric protease modification on droplet spreading and color performance
      AN Fangfang, FANG Kuanjun, LIU Xiuming, CAI Yuqing, HAN Shuang, YANG Haizhen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  58-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180601306
      Abstract ( 630 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1855KB) ( 237 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the influence of the surface performance of the modified wool fabrics on reactive dye ink droplets spreading and color properties, protease Savinase 16L was used for treating wool fabrics, and the spreading of ink droplets on fabrics and colorimetric values were observed. The contact angle measuring instrument, field emission scanning electron microscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy were adopted to analyze the wettability, morphology and chemical composition of wool fabrics. The results show that the surface scales of wool fibers are etched, the fiber structure becomes loose, and the wettability is improved after the protease modification. The spreading time and area of reactive dye droplets with different colors on the fabrics are significantly shorter and smaller than those of unmodified fabrics. Taking light red ink droplets as an example, the droplets spreading time and area on the protease treated fabrics decrease by 54.8% and 19.1%, respectively. In addition, more proteins are exposed to the wool fiber surface after the protease treatment, allowing more reactive dye molecules to covalently bond with the amino groups on the fiber surface, thereby improving the color depth and color saturation of wool fabric.

      Synthesis of UV curing melamine resin and performance testing of its coating fabric
      ZHANG Si, WU Min
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  64-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180603604
      Abstract ( 768 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1290KB) ( 131 )   Save
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      In order to prepare UV curable melamine resin,hydroxyethyl acrylate (HEA) was used to modify methyl etherified melamine resin (HMMM). The unsaturated C=C double bond was introduced to increase the photocurability of melamine resin.The structure of the product was characterized by infrared spectroscopy.As a result,amino acrylate (HEA-MF) is successfully synthesized.Then,the photocurable melamine resin film and coated fabric were prepared,and the thermal property of the film was characterized by Thermal Gravity Analysis(TGA).The mechanical properties,stiffness,wear resistance,waterproof,moisture permeability and air permeability of coated samples were analyzed.The results show that under 300 ℃,the UV-cured film has stable structure and good thermal stability,it begins to lose weight quickly at 350 ℃.After coating,the breaking strength,stiffness and abrasion resistance of the fabric are improved.The fabric elongation at break,moisture permeability and air permeability are adversely affected,but the waterproof properties of the coated fabric are outstanding.

      Effect of negative ion far-infrared functional fabrics on hyperplasia of mammary gland rats model
      WU Jihui, ZOU Wanqing, TANG Mingzhu, SHEN Xiaoyu, YANG Jiamin, ZHANG Lufen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  68-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170704405
      Abstract ( 609 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (1645KB) ( 58 )   Save
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      In order to study the health care effects of negative ion far-infrared functional fabrics on hyperplasia of mammary gland (HMG), the negative ion far-infrared functional fabrics were prepared by padding method, and female healthy Sprague-Dawley rats were selected as the research object. Then they were divided randomly into three groups: control group, model group and functional fabrics group. The experimental rats in the functional fabrics group wore the coat made by negative ion far-infrared functional fabrics, and in the model group the coat made by ordinary fabrics, prepared HMG rats model by accepted estrogen method. At last, the rats' nipple heights and diameters were measured, and the morphology of mammary gland were observed. The results indicate that in comparison with control group, the nipple heights and diameters increase in model group. Compared with model group, the nipple heights and diameters decrease in functional fabrics group. The morphological and histological features of the mammary gland in the functional fabric group are improved compared with the model group. Negative ion far-infrared functional fabrics can decrease the nipple heights and diameters of HMG rats, and has a certain inhibitory effect on the rats' HMG.

      Wool anti-felting treatment based on modified protease
      MEI Jingxia, ZHANG Nan, WANG Qiang, YUAN Jiugang, FAN Xuerong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  73-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180506506
      Abstract ( 553 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2219KB) ( 72 )   Save
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      Aiming at the severe damage to wool fiber and weak hydrolysis of keratin in scale caused by protease during wool fabric anti-felting finishing, protease was chemically modified with HOOC-PEG-COOH and L-cysteine to enlarge its volume so as to limit its hydrolysis to the surface of fiber and to be endued with the capability of reducing disulfide bonds in keratin. The anti-felting effect, the surface morphology, wetting properties and the degree of enzymolysis on wool fabric finished with the modified protease were further investigated by the dimensional stability to felting, breaking strength, SEM, contact angle, Allworden reaction and methylene blue coloration. The results show that the dimensional stability to felting and strength loss of wool fabrics finished with modified protease are superior to those of native protease. In addition, the hydrolysis of modified protease is limited to the scale layer of wool, and the modified protease is more harmful than unmodified protease for wool scale.

      Effect of oil removal on charging performance of needle-punched nonwoven filters
      ZOU Zhiwei, QIAN Xiaoming, QIAN Yao, ZHAO Baobao, DUO Yongchao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  79-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180704406
      Abstract ( 624 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1812KB) ( 219 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of the fiber surface oil on the charging performance of the needle-punched nonwoven materials, and improve the corona charging effect of the needle-punched nonwoven filter materials, polyester fiber was selected as raw material to prepare needle-punched nonwoven materials with different weights. The nonwoven materials were washed by detergent, sodium carbonate reagent and ethanol reagent to remove the oil on the fiber surface. The change of dielectric constant and volume specific resistance, as well as the corona charging effect and efficiency decay performance of the polyester nonwoven materials before and after washing was analyzed. The results show that the removal of the oil agent has a positive effect on the corona charging effect of the polyester needle-punched nonwoven material, and the charging performance of the nonwoven materials with oil removed has greatly improved. The difference of the charging filtration performance is more obvious when the weight is higher. After charging at -15 kV voltage for 1 min, the filtration efficiency of the needle-punched polyester nonwoven with the weight of 250 g/m2 increases from 42.6% to 57.8% after washing. The removal of the oil agent lengthens the period of electrostatic decay of the polyester needle-punched nonwoven material.

      Apparel Engineering
      Design principle of secant line for whole garment sweater based on narrowing process
      LI Ke, WU Zhiming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  85-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180604206
      Abstract ( 645 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1755KB) ( 114 )   Save
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      In order to enrich the design of whole garment, the Shima seiki MACH2XS15312G four bed flat knitting machine was used as the experimental equipment, combined with the SDS-ONE APEX 3 design system to study the design principle of the whole garment dividing line. The principle of splitting line forming was discussed from three kinds of narrowing methods: the stitching process, the ratio-receiving process and the rotating process. The whole garment long-sleeve V-neck dress was taken as an example to discuss the application of the whole garment narrowing process to form the dividing line. The results show that the needle folding process is suitable for the forming of dart and pleating to form straight line segmentation. The ratio needle drawing process is used for armhole braiding to form curve segmentation, and the rotation technique is suitable for before and after size difference. At the same time, the problem of the damage of the knitting stitch and the unevenness of the seam after the stitching are solved by the barrel knitting process.

      Impact of product attributes of online shopping clothing on customer fit satisfaction
      XIAO Ping, ZHANG Zhaohua, QIN Wangjie, FAN Jiayi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  91-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180805806
      Abstract ( 758 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1880KB) ( 192 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the influence of the product attributes on the customer fit satisfaction, the clothing product descriptions of 35 Taobao women's clothing store were combed. 8 display attributes related to the fit of online shopping clothing and 7 product attributes were extracted. The research framework was developed based on the S-O-R model. 204 valid samples were collected by web-based survey. A stepwise regression model was developed to estimate the influence of various product properties on customer fit satisfaction scores. The results show that customers pay more attention to reading the size chart and product indexes. However, the external attributes of the product have statistically significant influence on the customer fit satisfaction, and a positive correlation exists between the two. At the same time, the influence of body mass index(BMI) on the customer fit satisfaction was further studied. It is found that under different BMI models, the product attributes influencing the customer fit satisfaction have a significant difference, and the validity information of different target customer groups can be obtained.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Parameter optimization and experiments for winding mechanism of silk reeling machine
      ZHOU Xian, WANG Ying, CHEN Jianneng, WANG Rui, TAO Dehua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  97-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803409
      Abstract ( 648 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2405KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      In order to optimize the structural parameters of winding motion mechanism. Firstly, general kinematics mathematical models of winding motion mechanism driven by different types non-circular gears was established. Further, taking the ideal geometric characteristics of raw silk package profile curve as objective function, a general parameter optimization mathematical model was established, and then the pitch curve parameters of non-circular gears satisfying raw silk winding technique were solved by genetic algorithm. The winding motion mechanism driven by hybrid order Pascal curve non-circular gear pair was selected as an example to optimize the parameters, the test bench was developed and the raw silk winding experiment was carried out. The profile of winding mechanism driven by non-circular gear pairs basically coincides with the theoretical calculation profile, which verifies the correctness of the general mathematical model. Moreover, the package surface has a high planeness and a wide flattening area, which verifies the feasibility and superiority of the winding mechanism designed in the actual silk winding operation.

      Influence of guide-bar swing on instantaneous yarn demand and yarn tension on double needle bar warp knitting machine
      XU Yunlong, XIA Fenglin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  106-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501105
      Abstract ( 760 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1458KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of bar swing on instantaneous yarn demand and yarn tension fluctuation, based on the RDJ4/2 EL warp-knitting machine, the actual instantaneous yarn demand and yarn tension fluctuation at different running angle were measured. It is found from the calculation and analysis of the instantaneous yarn demand in the circle area and the instantaneous yarn demand of the guide bar that the fluctuation of the guide bar causes the fluctuation of instantaneous yarn demand by 231.5% compared with the form of motion with no bar swing. By comparing the fluctuating trend of overall instantaneous yarn demand and yarn tension, it is found that yarn tension and total instantaneous yarn demand have the similar increasing interval and decreasing interval, and have the similar interval of extreme value. Research shows that the swing of the guide bar increases range of fluctuations in the amount of yarn demand, and is the most important factor affecting the yarn tension and severely reduced the stability of the yarn.

      Management & Information
      Weft knitted fabric appearance simulation using colored spun yarn image
      WU Yilun, LI Zhongjian, PAN Ruru, GAO Weidong, ZHANG Ning
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  111-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180600506
      Abstract ( 506 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2315KB) ( 62 )   Save
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      In order to solve the time-consuming and labor-consuming problems caused by the prediction of fabric surface color of spun yarn knitwear products by making samples, a method for the simulation of knitted fabric appearance by using real spun yarn image was proposed. Firstly, image processing technology was adopted to preprocess the color images of the collected yarns, comprising image segmentation, morphological operations and closed operations to acquire the main binary image of the color spinning yarns, and the boundary and center line of the yarn main body were obtained. Furthermore, the main part of the original yarn image was obtained. Then, using the improved Peirce loop model, the texture information of the true colored spun yarn was mapped onto the geometric model of the loop. Finally, according to the established fabric structure transformation model, the coverage relationship of the loop was changed to complete simulation of weft knitted fabrics. Simulation results show that the proposed simulation algorithm can rapidly and accurately simulate the effect of different density and different yarn fabric cloth, which is consistent with the real scan fabric visual effect, thus, it is expected to replace physical proofing.

      Defect detection algorithm for multiple texture hierarchical fusion fabric
      ZHU Hao, DING Hui, SHANG Yuanyuan, SHAO Zhuhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  117-124.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180704708
      Abstract ( 899 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (2522KB) ( 158 )   Save
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      Aim

      ing at the false detection and missing detection caused by complexity and diversity of texture distribution in fabric defect detection, considering the periodicity of fabric texture, an algorithm of multi-texture gradation fusion for fabric defect detection was proposed. In the process of testing, firstly, the defect region was subjected to primary positioning and self-adaptive growth by using the Tamura roughness graph of the fabric defect image, then the primary positioned region was mapped to the original fabric image. The primary positioned region was blocked and the local phase quantization (LPQ) texture feature and Tamura texture feature of each image block were extracted, and the two different texture features were fused. The similarity between the fusion feature and the normal block feature was calculated to obtain the similarity image. Finally, the longitude and latitude feature map and the similarity feature map were fused to find the region of the defects in fabric images. The experimental results on TILDA dataset show that the new approach can reduce the redundancy of defect detection and improve the detection efficiency, and can avoid errors and omissions in the process of defect detection.

      Nonwovens multi-focus fusion based on GHM multi-wavelet transform
      CHEN Yang, XIN Binjie, DENG Na
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  125-132.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180505008
      Abstract ( 594 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3112KB) ( 48 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the fibers in some areas of the fabric image captured by the optical microscope under a single focal plane will be blurred, a multi-focus image fusion algorithm based on multi-wavelet transform was proposed. Using the self-built nonwoven fabric microscopic imaging system to acquire the fabric image sequences under different focal planes, the initial image sequence was subjected to critical sampling pre-filtering, and the two fusion methods were used to process the high and low frequencies of the images one by one. The original fabric fusion image was after wavelet fusion and inverse transformation, the original fusion image and the subsequent single-focus surface image were merged according to the above method. After the integration cycle was completed, all the fiber regions could be clearly displayed until the convergence was completed. Experiments show that the fusion method can digitally image the image sequence taken under different focus planes, achieve the effect of clear focusing and fusion of the fiber mesh in the full field of view within a single image, and provide the foundation for the computer image processing and measurement laying algorithm.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in preparation of high-efficiency air filter materials by electrospinning
      LIU Chaojun, LIU Junjie, DING Yike, ZHANG Jianqing, HUANG Luying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  133-141.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180805309
      Abstract ( 1492 )   HTML ( 37 )   PDF (3082KB) ( 337 )   Save
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      In order to better prepare high-efficiency air filter materials by electrospinning and promote the industrial application of electrospun nanofiber membranes in the field of high-efficiency air filtration, a comprehensive review to the recent studies about the preparation of high-efficiency air filter materials with low-resistance and functional properties were reviewed. The three-dimensional high-efficiency filter material with spherical and spider-web like structures, the electret-enhanced filter material, and the functional filter material with high temperature resistance, antibacterial and degradable characteristics were introduced emphatically. The research progress were reviewed, the problems and deficiencies in the existing research were analyzed and discussed. According to the research, the electrospun nanofiber membrane has advantages of simple and efficient production process, controllable morphology, high separation precision and wide applicability. The development and application prospect in the field of high efficiency air filtration is very broad.

      Research progress of medium and low temperature water-soluble textile starch size
      SHEN Yanqin, YANG Shu, WU Hailiang, WANG Zhongliang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  142-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.201806056010
      Abstract ( 1057 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (3063KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      With the requirements of energy saving and emission reduction and the need to reduce production costs, the medium and low temperature sizing technology has attracted more and more attention and become a research hotspot. Starch is the principal part of textile sizing material, and its solubility in low and medium temperature water is the key factor to realize medium and low temperature size preparation and warp yarn sizing. The water solubility of starch at low or medium temperature can be endowed by physical or chemical modified methods. The latest research status of preparation methods of water-soluble starch in low and medium temperature is reviewed. The physical and chemical preparation methods of water-soluble starch in medium and low temperature were introduced. The advantages and disadvantages of preparation methods of pregelatinized starch, granular cold water soluble starch, hydroxypropyl starch, carboxymethyl starch, phosphate starch and acetate starch were analyzed, and the effects of key preparation parameters on their properties were discussed. In the end, the preparation method of medium and low temperature soluble starch size is outlooked from the property of water solubility at medium and low temperatures and the view of environmental protection of preparation process. It is pointed out that the ball grinding method and ultrasonic assisted in the physical preparation method. Ultrasonic wave-microwave assisted,the dry process and semi dry process in the chemical preparation method to prepare medium and low temperature water-soluble starch have good development prospects.

      Research progress in recycling and reuse of carbon fiber reinforced resin composites
      RUAN Fangtao, SHI Jian, XU Zhenzhen, XING Jian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  152-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180802906
      Abstract ( 1221 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1964KB) ( 261 )   Save
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      In order to recover carbon fiber reinforced resin composites(CFRP) effectively, avoid waste of resources and environmental pollution, recycling methods and progress of thermosetting and thermoplastic resin-based carbon fiber composites were reviewed in this paper. These methods include physical mechanical method, heat recovery, solvent dissociation, melt injection and slice remolding, etc. The recovery idea of solvent dissociation method was sorted out. The degradable thermosetting resin and its recovery method were introduced. The recycling mechanism of carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic resin was described.The recycling methods of carbon fiber reinforced thermosetting resins were summarized, which have the characteristics of low recycling efficiency, high equipment requirements and poor performance of regenerated carbon fibers. It is considered that carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic resin composite has the characteristics of rapid prototyping, low cost and multiple recycling, which is suitable for the development trend of large-scale application of CFRP in civil field.

      Academic Salon Column for New Insight of Textile Science and Technology: Technology on Textiles for Safety and Protection
      Trend of research in textile-based protective materials against ballistic and stabbing
      CHEN Xiaogang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  158-164.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204507
      Abstract ( 681 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (2337KB) ( 206 )   Save
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      Textile-based protective materials against ballistic and stabbing impact have drawn tremendous attention due to their high performance, lightweight and wearability. This paper reviews and discusses the performance of ballistic materials in relation to the inter-yarn friction within a constituent ballistic fabric, and quasi-isotropic design and hybrid design of the ballistic panels, the use of 3-D textile structures, and the incorporation of the shear thickening fluid. High strength, high modulus and the derived high impact energy absorption of aramid fibres and ultra high molecular weight polyethylene fibres made them the main types of raw materials for the protective equipment. Woven fabrics, featured by perpendicular interlacement between warp and weft yarns, remain to be main structure used for impact protection, with much attention focusing on efficiency of fibre strength utilization and on the stress propagation between warp and weft yarns. Quasi-isotropic and hybrid designs have been proven to be effective for protection enhancement. Various types of 3-D textiles and their composites are used to improve the protection performance because of the structural integrity. Use of non-Newtonian fluid has shown to lead to improved stabbing properties.

      Impact of latest development trend of international standardization on GB 24539—2009 for chemical protective clothing
      YANG Xiaobing, YANG Guang, TAN Wenli, GUO Jingwen, DING Songtao, ZHONG Jinyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  165-170.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190201106
      Abstract ( 553 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (1998KB) ( 139 )   Save
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      In order to promote the improvement of chemical protective clothing technology and product quality, scientifically guide the revision of GB 24539—2009 《protective clothing-performance requirements of chemical protective clothing》 for chemical protective clothing, together with the latest development trends of chemical protective clothing standards by International Organization of Standardization(ISO), the differences between the national standard and the ISO standard were analyzed. Meanwhile, in conjunction with the update of the European Standardization Committee in the EN standards of chemical protective clothing, focusing on the technical requirements of the standards and the core test and evaluation methods including chemical permeation performance, wear resistance and flexibility testing of clothing fabrics, the in-depth discussion on the revision direction and hot issues of the future chemical protective clothing standards in China was discussed, providing scientific technical support for the ongoing revision of standard in China.

      Preparation of flexible puncture-proof polyester/SiC and puncture-proof property
      WANG Xinhou, ZHANG Linmei, SUN Xiaoxia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  171-175.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190201406
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      Due to the high price and poor flexibility of the puncture-proof clothing, it is hard to be popularized in neither military nor civilian field. In this study, a new kind of puncture-proof composite materials (FPPCM) with improved flexibility and low cost was fabricated by coating different sizes of silicon carbide (SiC) particles onto the polyester woven fabric. Through single coating method or double coating method, the obtained composite materials were investigated by scanning electron microscope observation and multilayer puncture-proof dynamic puncture performance test. The results show that the best puncture-proof property of the FPPCM was obtained using 180 μm SiC particles. The influence of the coating method was studied as well. The results show that the FPPCM fabricated by single layer-double sides coating method is better in stab-resistant property than that fabricated by double layer-single side coating method. Moreover, the dissipative energy absorption model of the FPPCM with six layers by single layer-double sides coating method was analyzed. It is found that there are two main energy dissipation models for the FPPCM fabricated by single side-double layer coating method.

      Advances in knitted structural materials for safety protection
      MA Pibo, SUN Yaxin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  176-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190103106
      Abstract ( 479 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (1858KB) ( 187 )   Save
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      In order to improve the application of knitted structural materials for safety protection, the fabrication processes and performance characteristics of knitted protective materials made of plain structure, warp-knitted mesh structure, warp-knitted spacer structure, velvet structure, axial structure, auxetic structure and seamless structure fabric, are systematically introduced in this review. And the application and research status of knitted protective materials is summarized. Knitted protective materials have the advantages of comfort, excellent formability, strong designability and large protective area, therefore, they have a broad development prospect in the field of safety protection. At the same time, this review combines the current development of science and technology and the actual needs of people for protective products, and points out that knitted protective materials will be developed in the directions of intelligence, multi-function, lightweight, portable, comfort and fashion.

      Preparation and properties of spherical activated carbon-based composite fabric for permeable chemical protective clothing
      LIU Qixia, ZHOU Yiru, YANG Zhilian, WANG Mei, JI Tao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(06):  182-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190202007
      Abstract ( 723 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2431KB) ( 327 )   Save
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      In order to prepare permeable chemical protective clothing fabric with excellent protection performance and physiological comfort performance, based on structural optimization design, a series of intermediate adsorption layer materials were prepared by using four different spherical activated carbons (SACs) as core adsorption materials by point-adhesive composite technology. The structure and properties of the materials were studied by means of scanning electron microscope observation, specific surface area and pore structure analysis, etc. The results show that the chemical protective mechanism of the developed SAC-based chemical protective clothing fabric is oil repellence and adsorption. By overall consideration of multiple indicators such as cost, gas permeability, adhesion fastness, chemical protective performance, permeable chemical protective clothing composite fabric prepared using domestic pitch-based medium sphere SAC2 as adsorbent show optimal performance. The surface density and the air permeability of its corresponding adsorption layer material are 386.6 g/m2 and 1 086.57 mm/s, respectively. Moreover, the SAC spheres are firmly adhered to the base cloth with a washout ratio of 0.87% and its adsorption capacity retention ratio reaches 90.3%. The liquid-gas protection time is over 48 h and the gas-gas protection time is 230 min.