Table of Content

15 July 2019, Volume 40 Issue 07

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Fiber Materials

Preparation of flame retardant aromatic polysulfonamide/cellulose fibers with N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide monohydrate as solvent

CHENG Tong, YAO Yongbo, CHEN Zhongli, JIN Hong, WU Kaijian, WANG Lejun, LIU Yining, ZHANG Yumei

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  1-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180701407

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In order to prepare fibers with flame retardant property and good hygroscopicity, N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide monohydrate (NMMO·H₂O) was used as co-solvent to dissolve aromatic polysulfonamide (PSA) and cellulose, and the PSA/cellulose blend fibers were fabricated by dry-jet wet spinning. The structure and properties of spinning solution and blended fibers were characterized and analyzed. It is found that NMMO·H₂O can dissolve PSA well, and the spinning solution is homogeneous and stable. An analogous ″sheath-core″ morphology is observed in the fibers as PSA distributed more in the sheath domain. The flame retardant property, moisture absorption ability and the mechanical property of the PSA/cellulose blended fibers are good. When the cellulose content is 30% in the blend fiber, the blend fibers still meet the requirement of flame retardant fiber standards. The tensile strength of the blend fiber is up to 2.08 cN/dtex, which shows a good tensile strength without post treatment. The moisture regain of PSA/cellulose fibers is up to 8%, and the dyeability is also improved.

Influence of cooling temperature on structure and properties of polyvinylidene fluoride/ultrahigh-molecular-weight polyethylene blends hollow fiber membrane

LI Nana, LU Qingchen, YIN Weiwei, XIAO Changfa

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  8-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180709706

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In order to solve the problem of hard synchronous increase strength and permeability of polyvinylidene fluoride(PVDF) membrane, PVDF/ultrahigh-molecular-weight polyethylene(UHMWPE) blends hollow fiber membranes were prepared by thermally induced phase separation, using mineral oil and dibutyl phthalate as mixed diluents. The influences of different cooling temperatures on the morphology and pore structure of the membrane were investigated. Permeability and mechanical properties of hollow fiber membranes were characterized by gas flux, water flux and tensile strength. The results show that fibrillar UHMWPE increases the connectivity of PVDF spherulitic aggregates. The cooling temperature has a significant influence on the structure and properties of the blends hollow fiber membrane. With the cooling temperature increases, the time of phase separation and crystallization of blends system(PVDF/dibutyl phthalate and UHMWPE/mineral oil) are prolonged. The average pore size and porosity of the membrane increase, which improves the membrane permeability. However, the appearance of large pores and the decrease of UHMWPE fibrils reduce the mechanical properties of the membrane.

Preparation and properties of regenerated silk fibroin/acellular dermal matrix blended nanofiber membrane

LIN Yongjia, YANG Dongchao, ZHANG Peihua, GU Yan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  13-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180705106

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In order to further improve the application potential of regenerated silk fibroin (RSF) in biological tissue engineering, RSF and acellular dermal matrix (ADM) were dissolved in formic acid in different mass ratios to prepare a spinning solution for electrospinning. The morphology, microstructure and biocompatibility of nanofibers were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and CCK8 kit. The test results show that at a fixed mass ratio of 9∶1, the nanofibers spun at a mass concentration of 13 g/mL are more regular, and the spinning state is more stable. When the fixed spinning solution mass concentration is 13 g/mL, as the proportion of ADM in the blend increases, the viscosity of the spinning solution increases gradually, the spinnability deteriorates, and the fiber morphology gradually becomes irregular. An interaction exists between ADM and RSF. Some of the random structures in the blended nanofiber membrane gradually shift to the β-sheet structure. The RSF/ADM blended nanofiber membrane has good biocompatibility.

Preparation and properties of anti-bacterial, anti-mite and anti-mildew functional modified viscose fibers

WU Jiao, YU Husheng, WAN Xingyun, TIAN Ping, LI Huimin, HOU Xiaoxin

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  19-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501405

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In order to prepare functional viscose fiber with antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-mildew functions and durability, the extract solution of traditional Chinese medicine Litsea cubeba and Foeniculum vulgare prepared by water dissolution and the thyme essential oil microcapsule were blended with viscose spinning solution. Then the modified viscose fiber with antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-mildew functions was prepared by wet spinning. The structure and properties of the fiber were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, Fourier infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, single fiber strength tester and antibacterial, anti-mite and anti-mildew related testing instruments. The results show that compared with the ordinary viscose fiber, the crystal cell structure of the modified viscose fiber is not changed, and the crystallinity and orientation are 41.3% and 77.1%, respectively, which are in accordance with the common viscose fiber. The nonwovens made of the fibers have good anti-bacterial, anti-mite and anti-mildew functions and wash resistance.

Cationization of Bombyx mori silk fibroin and effect there of on wool traits

BAO Hong, XU Shui, ZHANG Xiaoning, CHENG Guotao, ZHU Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  24-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180607107

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In order to improve the wearing comfort of wool fabrics, 1-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-3-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride (EDC) was used as an activator to activate carboxyl group on the silk fibroin side chain to react with spermine. The cationized silk fibroin was then arranged on the finished wool fiber. The finished wool was characterized by scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, Fourier infrared spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry analysis. The results show that Zeta potential of silk fibroin rises from -3.58 mV to 5.41 mV, and the modified wool fiber scale layer is coated by a silk fibroin film. The wool fiber possesses more hydrogen bonds and amide bonds, and the crystal structure of wool fiber is more stable. The heat-resistant decomposition performance of the cationized silk fibroin treated wool fibers is improved, but the mechanical properties are decreased. However, no significant difference exists in wool fiber structure with different silk fibroin solution modification. Wool fibers have a reduced dye uptake ratio for acid dyes.

Textile Engineering

Study on mixing uniformity of fibers in rotor-spun mixed yarns

DENG Qianqian, YANG Ruihua, XU Yaya, GAO Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  31-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180708107

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In order to investigate the effect of fiber mixing on the degree of fiber mixing in the rotor mix cotton yarn,the radial distribution characteristics of cotton fiber with different colors in rotor spinning blended cotton yarn were analyzed by studying the cross section sample of two-component blending rotor spun cotton yarn and three-component blended rotor spun cotton yarn with different blending modes (mixed by two-slivers, by three-slivers and by roving). The Hamilton transfer index method was adopted to characterize the uniformity of the radial distribution of cotton fibers in the blended cotton yarn, and the influence of the fiber blending methods on the radial uniformity of the rotor spinning cotton yarn was discussed. The experimental results show that for the above mentioned combination modes, color fiber distribution of different mixed-color cotton yarn is uniform, and the real ratio of fiber is consistent to the designed ratio. The mixing methods have no obvious influence on the radial uniformity of the rotor spinning cotton yarns, and the three-channel rotor spinning can achieve good blending effect of the fibers.

Influence of experimental parameters on friction properties of high performance quartz fibers

JIAO Ya'nan, YANG Zhi, ZHANG Shihao

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  38-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803107

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In order to solve the problem that the friction between high strength and high modulus tows of three-dimensional fabrics in weaving process reduces the properties of fabrics, taking quartz fiber as an example, a fixture for friction and wear testing machine for testing the friction between tows was designed. With this machine, the tows or single fibers could be in contact with each other at vertical or certain angles. The influence of friction angle, friction frequency and load on the frictional properties of tows on fiber scale was studied. The results show that the three experimental parameters have different degrees of friction and wear on the surface of the tows. The friction coefficient at a friction angle of 70° is 1.2 times of that at 90°, and the smaller the friction angle, the greater the wear degree. Friction frequency and load have no effect on friction coefficient within a certain range. In the weaving process of 3-D fabrics, the inclined contact between the tows should be reduced as much as possible to decrease the fabric performance degradation, and the weaving frequency and load can be increased within a certain range to improve the production efficiency.

Process design and knitting principle of whole socks on flat knitting machine

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  44-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180608307

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In order to solve artificial sewing and high production costs required by conventional socks, the V-bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system was adopted to study the whole socks from pattern design, process parameters and knitting process. According to the sox head structure, the whole socks in common socks, toe socks and inner toe socks were proposed. The knitting technology of every part of whole socks was discussed. Three kinds of sox head knitting technology were discussed emphatically. It is found that sox head adopts partial technology to realize the circular shape and spacer knitting of inner toe socks. During the knitting process of sox foot and tube, the horizontal dimension change of the cylinder can be realized by the narrowing and widening process. The sox heel forms a trapezoidal bag structure by partial technology and narrowing and widening process. The sox mouth adopts a rib structure and inserts elastic yarn to prevent slipping when wearing. The final treatment of sox mouth adopts a press-off process.

Structure design and separation technology of Raschel lace selvage

HE Kejie, JIANG Gaoming

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  51-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180709108

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In order to efficiently improve selvage design of Raschel lace and reduce defective rate when separating selvages, this paper conducted a further research on its selvage structure technique and separation approach based on primary knitting method. Firstly the selvages of Raschel laces and Jacquard laces were classified into straight, wavy and compound types according to their specific motographic characters. Structures used in these selvages are mainly teeth type, horizontal eyelash type, longitudinal eyelash type and borderline type. Design requirements and knitting method of these structures were further stated from aspects of Jacquard principle and multi-bar lapping algorithm. In order to properly separate these structural selvages, separation techniques were then analyzed based on selvage structure formation, threading cycle and yarn selection. Especially, more attention was paid on the raveling separation method which works well for multi-bar Raschel technology and Jacquard Raschel technology with both similar and opposite lappings.

Pressure reduction property of warp-knitted spacer fabric

CHEN Meiyu, SUN Runjun, ZHANG Changqi, LIU Xianfeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  58-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180902806

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In order to investigate the quantitative relationship between the pressure reduction property and the structural parameters of a warp-knitted spacer fabric, the interaction mechanism between human body stress and spacer fabric during compression was analyzed theoretically. The relationship between the pressure on the human body and its structural parameters of a spacer fabric during compression was also investigated. The theoretical equation between the structural parameters and the pressure reduction property of a spacer fabric were found out, including spacer filament diameter, arrangement density of spacer filaments, spacer fabric thickness and so on. Furthermore, the compression experiments with a self-designed spherical indenter were applied to verify the relationship between the pressure reduction property and the main three structural parameters of a spacer fabric. The results indicate that the pressure on the human body of a spacer fabric during compression correlates with the spacer filament diameter in a power function, and with the spacer fabric thickness and the arrangement density of spacer filaments in an inverse and proportional function relation, respectively.

Preparation and mechanical properties of aramid/ ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric reinforced polyurethane sandwich composite

WU Liwei, WANG Wei, LIN Jiahorng, JIANG Qian

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  64-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180601607

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By applying ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber (UHMWPE) and aramid as reinforced fabric panels and flexible polyurethane (PU) as core, a sandwich flexible composite with good cushioning property was developed by textile technique and one-step foaming process. PU composites reinforced by nylon nonwoven and basalt plain weave fabric were prepared as control group, and static and dynamic mechanical testing were conducted on all three composites. The results show aramid/UHMWPE plain weave reinforced sandwich composite has excellent mechanical property. The tensile strengths and elongation at breaks of aramid/UHMWPE plain weave reinforced sandwich composite in longitudinal and horizontal direction are 1 930 N, 1 744 N, 5.8% and 6.5%, respectively. The sandwich composite is compact when the compressive displacement reaches to 7.5 mm, and the compressive deformation is 93%. Impact strength of aramid/UHMWPE plain weave reinforced sandwich composite is 1 260 N with absorbed energy of 13.4 J and energy density of 4.95 J/g, proving good energy absorption capability on the basis of lightweight.

Preparation and compressive properties of carbon fiber reinforced braided composite circular tubes

GU Yuanhui, ZHANG Diantang, JIA Minghao, QIAN Kun

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  71-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180707607

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In order to further explore the influence of braid structure and length on the compression performance of composite circular tubes, two-dimensional over-braiding and three-dimensional four-directional braided circular tubes were manufactured by a resin transfer molding process. The compression mechanical behavior of four composite tube samples were obtained by quasi-static axial compression test. Combined with high-speed photographic recording, the failure process and failure mode of braided composite tubes were analyzed, and the compression failure mechanism was explored. The results show that the two braided structure tubes show elastoplastic characteristics, while the 3-D braided tube shows better compression bearing capacity, and has the compressive modulus and load peaks of 5.91 GPa and 14.23 kN, respectively. The samples exhibit several or all combinations of failure modes such as fiber breakage, matrix cracking, debonding, petal destruction, shearing and extrusion buckling. The progressive failure characteristics of the two-dimensional braided composite tubes are more obvious, and have better energy absorption characteristics. The compression modulus of the two-dimensional braided composite circular tubes increases with the length of the composite circular tubes, but the energy absorption effect is nonlinear with the length of the sample.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Influence of cotton fabric structure on ink droplet spreading and color performance

YANG Haizhen, FANG Kuanjun, LIU Xiuming, CAI Yuqing, AN Fangfang, HAN Shuang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  78-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180600607

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In order to investigate the relationship between the cotton fabric structure and ink jet printing effect, from the perspective of fabric roughness, thickness and porosity, the reactive dye inks were added to fabrics with different structures. The color strength and the spreading area of reactive dye ink droplets on the fabric was analyzed by colorimeter and image processing software. The influence of fabric warp and weft roughness, thickness and porosity on the color performance of the fabric was studied. The results show that the honeycomb fabric exhibits the higher color strength values, followed by twill fabrics, and plain fabric displays the smaller color strength values when the color coverage is 100%. The larger fabric roughness and porosity contributes to the lighter the color strength of fabrics, and the larger the spread area of the ink droplets on fabrics, and the worse the anti-bleeding performance. The larger fabric thickness contributes to the darker the color strength of fabrics, and the smaller the spread area of the ink droplets on fabrics, and the better the anti-bleeding performance.

Synthesis of self-colored waterborne polyurethane and its application in coating of cotton fabric

XU Yan, JI Xiaoqian, CHEN Kunlin, WANG Chaoxia

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  85-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180708406

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Hydroxyl terminated self-colored waterborne polyurethane was synthesized by covalently bonding 1-amino-4-hydroxy-2-(6-hydroxy-hexyloxy) anthraquinone into waterborne polyurethane skeleton to solve the poor thermal migration of low molecular dye and complexity of pigment, dye or extra colorant for coating slurry. The chemical structure and thermal stability were studied by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, ultraviolate-visible spectrometer and thermal gravity analysis. The effects of chromophore mass fraction, curing agent mass fraction and baking conditions on K/S value, color fastness and hand feeling were investigated. Results show that the K/S value of coated cotton fabric increases with the increase of anthraquinone chromophore dosages in the preparation of self-colored waterborne polyurethane. The K/S value of coated cotton fabric is 5.20 under the condition of 20% curing agent and baking at 150 ℃ for 5 min. The dry rubbing fastness and wet rubbing fastness are 4-5 grade. The fading fastness can reach 3-4 grade and staining fastness is 4-5 grade. The hand feeling is 3 grade.

Preparation of superhydrophobic, photocatalytic and UV-blocking textiles based on SiO₂/TiO₂ composite aerogels

SHENG Yu, XU Lihui, MENG Yun, SHEN Yong, WANG Liming, PAN Hong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  90-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180608807

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In order to prepare a new multifunctional textile, SiO₂/TiO₂ composite aerogel was prepared by sol-gel method, and polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)/SiO₂-TiO₂ composite material was obtained by mixing PDMS and SiO₂/TiO₂ composite aerogel. PDMS/SiO₂-TiO₂ composites were applied to coat onto the cotton fabrics by dip-pad-cure process to prepare multifunctional textiles. The scanning electron microscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analyzer, atomic force microscopy were adopted to characterize the treated fabrics, and photocatalysis, hydrophobicity and UV-blocking properties were analyzed. The surface of the cotton fabric after treatment has the micro-nano roughness structure constructed by PDMS/SiO₂-TiO₂ composite material. The PDMS/SiO₂-TiO₂ composite material is successfully coated on the surface of the finished cotton fabric. The treated cotton fabric has a water contact angle of 157.7°, the UV protection factor of 122.47, and the photocatalytic degradation ratio for methylene blue of 87.08% after 4 h illumination.

Influence of alkali treatment on mechanical properties of polyester/photosensitive resin composites

SONG Xing, ZHU Chengyan, CAI Fengjie, LÜ Zhining, TIAN Wei

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  97-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180705406

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ing at the problem of poor mechanical properties of photosensitive resin after 3D printing, the method using polyester filament to reinforce photosensitive resin was adopted to fabricate polyester reinforced composite material by composite molding of polyester filament and photosensitive resin using stereo lithography appearance equipment. In order to obtain better reinforcement effect, the polyester fiber was treated with alkali. The relationship between the alkali reduction ratio of polyester and the morphology and mechanical properties of the polyester under various alkali treatment conditions was analyzed, and its influence on the mechanical properties of the composite was measured. The results show that the morphology and mechanical properties of the fiber change more obviously with the increase of alkali reduction ratio. When the polyester alkali reduction ratio is 16.2%, continuous longitudinal gully appears on the fiber surface, and the fiber mechanical strength decreases by 6%, and the fiber reinforcing effect is the best. The tensile strength and flexural strength of the modified polyester fiber reinforced composites reach 78 MPa and 471 MPa, respectively, and the tensile strength and flexural strength increase by 66% and 336%, compared with the untreated fiber reinforced composite, respectively.

Application of low temperature plasma in surface modification of polyester fiber

ZHANG Huan, YAN Jun, WANG Xiaowu, JIAO Andong, LI Hong, ZHENG Laijiu, HE Tingting

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  103-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180506605

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In view of the problem of poor hydrophilicity of polyester, the surface modification of polyester fabric was carried out by low temperature plasma. The influence of dielectric barrier discharge plasma on the performance of polyester fabric was investigated under the pressure of 300 Pa and power of 5.5 W. The dynamic friction coefficient, strength, hydrophilicity and other properties of the treated fabric were measured, and the microscopic morphology and surface chemical composition of the polyester fiber were characterized. The mechanism of plasma-modified polyester was proposed. The results show that the plasma etches the polyester surface to generate cracks and voids on the surface of the fiber, which increases the surface area of the polyester fiber. The dynamic friction coefficient increases with the increase of plasma treatment time, and the strength decreases by up to 25% with the increase of treatment time. The capillary effect of the treated fabric is increased by 75%, the contact angle to water is reduced by 33.3%, and the surface hydroxyl of the polyester is increased, which effectively improves the hygroscopicity and hydrophilicity of the polyester. The plasma treated polyester has certain timeliness.

Preparation and properties of Ag/Cu film deposited on surface of polyester substrates

MENG Lingling, WEI Qufu, HUANG Xinmin, JI Dandan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  108-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180700905

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In order to explore the structure and properties of polyester-based Ag/Cu films, nanoscale films were prepared by direct current and radio frequency co-sputtering using pure polyester fabrics of different structures as the substrate and metallic silver and copper as targets. Field emission scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometry, photoelectron spectroscopy, fabric inductive electrostatic analysis, fabric UV protection and electromagnetic radiation test were utilized to characterize the surface morphology and structure and antistatic, anti-UV and anti-electromagnetic shielding performance of the samples. The experimental results show that the film on the surface of the nonwoven fabric is uniform and continuous, the diameter of the nano-particles on the surface of the woven fabric is small, and the surface distribution of the knitted fabric is continuous, but some island-like particles still exist. Cu(111), Cu(200), Ag(111) and Ag(200) diffraction peaks of Cu/Ag film on the surface of the sample are not obvious, and the crystallinity is low. XPS image shows that the nano-film is not oxidized, and exists in elemental form. The nonwoven fabric is used as the substrate, the antistatic, anti-UV, anti-electromagnetic shielding performance of the sample is the best, and the knitted fabric is the worst.

Preparation of immobilized cross-linked protease aggregate and sanding effect thereof on silk fabric

BAI Gang, LIU Yanchun, QIAN Hongfei

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  113-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180704906

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ing at the obvious strength decrease and serious fading in silk sanding with conventional alkali agent, the immobilized cross-linked protease aggregates (ICLPAs) were used for sanding of silk fabrics. The preparation conditions of ICLPAs were optimized, and the stability and reusability of ICLPAs were investigated. The properties of ICLPAs-treated fabric were studied by testing KES fabric style, capillary effect, air permeability,moisture penetrability, thermal resistance, wet resistance, drapability and strength. The results show that the thermal stability, pH stability and reusablility of ICLPAs are all improved compared to free protease. The silk fibroin of the ICLPAs-treated fabric is hydrolyzed. The microvelvet is produced on the fabric surface. The softness, wrinkle resistance, moisture absorption, moisture permeability, air permeability increase and the breaking strength decrease. The bending rigidity of the ICLPAs-treated fabric is 0.003 1 cN·cm and drape coefficient is 1.97%. The crease recovery angle is 225°. The capillary effect (30 min) of the treated fabric is 11.3 cm. The air permeability is 372.1 L/(m ²·s) and the moisture penetrability is 2 303 g/(m ²·d).

Single-guide water non-fluorinated finishing of cotton spunlace non-woven materials

QI Guorui, KE Qinfei, LI Zu'an, HUANG Zujian, JIN Xiangyu, HUANG Chen

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  119-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703409

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In order to realize the industrialization of pure cotton spunlace non-woven materials single-directional water-free fluorine-free finishing process, self-made atomization equipment and the German fluorine-free water repellent RUCO-DRY ECO with a volume fraction of 0.67% were adopted to one-side water-repellent spray finish the cotton spunlace non-woven materials. This paper studied the physical and mechanical properties, contact angle and moisture management tester(MMT)performance of the materials after finishing for different spray time, discussed the reasons for the little change of physical and mechanical properties and the changes of contact angle and MMT performance, and carried out the diaper surface performance test of the finished cotton spunlace non-woven materials. The results show that its one-way transfer index (AOTC) can reach 1 093%, the liquid water dynamic transfer index (OMMC) can reach 0.960 6. Under the premise of ensuring pure cotton material does not reverse osmosis, the liquid penetration time can reach 4 s.

Apparel Engineering

Calculation of circumference size based on human body section point cloud

LI Xiaozhi, LI Xiaojiu, LIU Hao

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  128-132.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180806205

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In order to simplify the calculation process on the circumference size, the coordinates of section points in space were first transformed to 2-D plane. Then by the quick comparing sorting, four extreme points were acquired, and based on the extremes points the point set was divided into four subsets. The convex hull of every subset was monotonous, so some concave points were directly deleted by sorting and comparing the coordinates x and z. The final convex hull points were determined by the inner angle of the adjacent three points calculated by the cross product. The line by connecting the points in order was the body circumference line and its length was the size. Comparing with the Graham scanning method, the method has the same time complexity and same results. However, it is easier to be programmed, and by simplifying the point set by easily sorting and comparing, the method can reduce the number of backtracks and effectively improve the computing efficiency of body's circumference sizes.

Influence of bra underwire on vertical breast displacement

CHEN Xiaona, WANG Erhui

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  133-137.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180603805

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In order to study whether adding underwire can effectively improve limitation of bra on women's vertical breast displacement during exercise, three dimensional motion capture system (NDI Optotrak Certus) was employed to collect the vertical breast displacement of 9 participants with the breast size of C cup, when they were wearing bras with and without underwire, exercising on the treadmill at three gait speeds (5, 7.5, 10 km/h). Meanwhile, visual analogue scale (VAS) was adopted to measure participants' perceived breast displacement and discomfort resulted from breast displacement in each motion state. The results show that adding underwire can effectively increase bra function on limiting vertical breast displacement of women with C cup size breasts when they are exercising on the treadmill. Similarly, adding underwire has a significant effect on reducing participants' perceived breast displacement and discomfort related to breast displacement. The control effect of underwire on vertical breast displacement increases with the acceleration of gait speed.

Preparation of pressure distribution monitoring socks and related sensing properties

LI Siming, WU Guanzheng, HU Yujie, FANG Meiqi, HE Luxiang, HE Yan, XIAO Xueliang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  138-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180804107

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In order to investigate the electrical conductivity and application of the weft knitted flexible sensor, the viscose conductive fiber and nylon fiber with 20% stainless steel particle content were adopted to prepare one-piece pressure distribution monitoring socks comprising three integrated pressure sensing modules and three knitting wires. The resistance change of the pressure sensing part in the surface of the socks was tested by the self-built pressure and resistance synchronous recorder. The relationship between the stress and the resistance of the pressure sensing part and the stability and reliability of the repeated compression resistance were studied. The results show that the stress and resistance of different pressure sensing parts are inversely proportional. In the case of increased stress, the resistance and sensitivity values of the knitting pressure sensor are reduced. In different stress cycles, the sensor has good curve characteristics. The sensor exhibits good stability and repeatability under a stress cycle of 35 kPa.

Machinery & Accessories

Double jacquard control system of warp knitting machine based on dual bus architecture

ZHANG Qi, WEI Li, LUO Cheng, XIA Fenglin, JIANG Gaoming

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  145-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503407

Abstract ( 593 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (2262KB) ( 122 )   Save

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In order to solve the problem, too long static data loading time and too slow dynamic data refreshing leading to the inconvenience of pattern change and reduction of speed in the double jacquard warp knitting machine production due to the quick increase in the jacquard comb number and pattern information. A system based on two levels of databus architecture and modular of jacquard control unit of the double jacquard warp knitting jacquard control system was built. 100 Mbps Ethernet was used for big chunks of the pattern file loading, and the double thread scheduling to balance the contradiction between the high-speed flow and low speed storage for the large amount of data was designed. Double data buffer to exchange space for time was adopted to realize the isolation and concurrent execution between the bus data transmission and jacquard action. The conflict between high real-time capability demand and large amount of pattern data transmission effectively was alleviated. By the production verification on the RDJ6/2 double needle warp knitting machine, the designed double jacquard control system can meet the production speed of no lower than 450 r/min, and increases the production speed by nearly 30%. The 1 000-row double-jacquard pattern file loading time is about 10 s, meaning that the loading speed increases by 120 times.

Simulation platform for chemical filament automatic doff system

REN Huiying, ZOU Kun, HU Xiaorong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  151-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180707807

Abstract ( 500 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2047KB) ( 153 )   Save

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ing at the problem that the chemical filament automatic doff system has many process parameters and is difficult to be systematically studied by theoretical methods, a virtual reality simulation platform based on Unity3D was developed to select process parameters. The platform adopted the method of separating the beat control and the execution in the system operation. The software hierarchy was clear by encapsulating each functional module. Then, in order to verify the effectiveness of the simulation results, the production line conditions were simplified and modeled in the MatLab environment. Then the three robot avoidance strategies were contrasted based on the simulation platform, and the running speed of the doff robot was set under the conditions of mixed production of multi-species chemical filaments. The conclusions are as follows. The simulation result of the simulation platform is effective, and the avoidance strategy of doff priority is more suitable for the automatic doff production line of chemical filament. When the speed of the doff robot is 2.3 m/s, the system can realize complete automatic doff.

Management & Information

Hairiness detection based on maximum entropy and density clustering

LI Pengfei, YAN Kai, ZHANG Huanhuan, JING Junfeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  158-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180801305

Abstract ( 571 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2940KB) ( 54 )   Save

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In order to calculate the number of yarn hairiness and hairiness length more accurately,a method based on maximum entropy and density clustering was proposed to detect the yarn hairiness length and root number. The yarn image was preprocessed by bilateral filtering to filter out the noise in the image and enhance the yarn hairiness characteristics. Then the maximum entropy was adopted to segment the preprocessed yarn image and remove the yarn. The hairiness were extracted and refined. Finally, the density clustering algorithm(DBSCAN clustering) was applied to classify the number of hairiness. In addition, the root and length of hairiness according to the number of classified hairiness and the number of pixels in each class were calculated. Compared with the visual method and the datum line method, the experimental results demonstrate that the proposed method is very close to the visual method and more accurate than the datum line method. Furthermore, it is shown that the proposed method is accurate and effective.

Numerical simulation of low temperature protection process for heat storage fabrics

CHEN Xu, WU Bingyang, FAN Ying, YANG Musheng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  163-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180605706

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In order to improve the low temperature resistance of ordinary fabric, a phase change microcapsule with heat storage and temperature control function was coated to the surface to produce heat storage temperature fabric. The low temperature protection process of composite fabric was simulated by Fluent software. Based on this, the simulation accuracy of the model was tested by low temperature protection experiment. In addition, the influence of phase change latent heat and volume fraction of microcapsules on the low temperature protective properties of thermal storage fabrics was investigated. The numerical simulation results show the temperature field distribution and the temperature variation trend of the temperature distribution in different time nodes. The error of the test results and simulation results is less than 8.64%, which indicates that the simulation results can be adopted to restore the low temperature protection process of the heat storage fabric. The results show that when the phase change latent heat of microcapsules increases from 50 J/g to 200 J/g, the low temperature protection time of the fabric is prolonged by 70.1%. When the volume fraction of the microcapsule increases from 1% to 5%, the low temperature protection time of the fabric increases from 214 s to 388 s, prolonged by 81.3%.

Wet-steaming dyeing prediction model of cotton knitted fabric with reactive dye based on least squares support vector machine

TAO Kaixin, YU Chengbing, HOU Qi'ao, WU Congjie, LIU Yinfeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  169-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180602805

Abstract ( 563 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (963KB) ( 69 )   Save

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ing at the problem of hard control and prediction of dyeing conditions on the color of dyed fabrics in the continuous wet-steaming dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics with reactive dye, the influences of sodium sulfate concentration, soda concentration, and steaming time on the color depth (K/S value) of the dyed fabrics were studied in the wet-steaming dyeing process of cotton knitted fabrics with Remazol golden yellow RGB. At the same time, based on least squares support vector machine (LS-SVM), using these factors as the input variables of the prediction model and the K/S value of fabric color depth as the output variable, a multi-factor model of K/S value was established to predict K/S value. The experiment results show that the correlation coefficient between the experimental value and the predicted value of the model is 0.999 6, and the mean relative error is lower than 1%, which indicates that the model has high accuracy. The modeling method can be applied to predict the K/S value of fabric, providing a basis reference for the optimization of the wet-steaming reactive dyeing process conditions for cotton knitted fabric.

Clothing image retrieval by salient region detection and sketches

WU Chuanbin, LIU Li, FU Xiaodong, LIU Lijun, HUANG Qingsong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  174-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180900808

Abstract ( 582 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (3328KB) ( 86 )   Save

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In order to solve the problems of unsatisfactory accuracy and low efficiency in the clothing image retrieval, a sketch based clothing image retrieval method by visual salient regions and re-ranking was proposed. Firstly, clothing salient edge map was obtained by saliency detection method with regularized random walks walking and the edge map. Then, histogram of oriented gradeient features of user sketches and the salient edge in clothing images were extracted, respectively, and the feature matching was achieved by similarity calculation between the input sketches and clothing images. Finally, the retrieval results were output in descending order according to the similarity. Using the re-ranking optimization based on distance correlation coefficients, final results were obtained. Experimental results show that the method can effectively provide clothing retrieval results and significantly improve accuracy and robustness comparison with other approaches. The accuracy ratio of the algorithm is higher than 78.5%.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of halogen-free flame retardancy and smoke suppression of polyacrylonitrile

REN Yuanlin, JIANG Li'na, HUO Tongguo, TIAN Tian

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(07):  182-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180709607

Abstract ( 675 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (126825KB) ( 169 )   Save

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In order to promote the further development of halogen-free flame retardant technology of polyacrylonitrile and provide reference for the scientific research and industrial application, the main flame retardant technologies suitable for polyacrylonitrile fiber and its fabric, the types of the commonly used halogen-free flame retardants and the main smoke suppression mechanisms of different halogen-free flame retardants were introduced. The development and the latest research progress of halogen-free flame retardants and their smoke suppression technology of polyacrylonitrile at home and abroad were reviewed. As far as the shortcomings of the different halogen-free flame retardants were concerned, corresponding solutions and development requirements were put forward. The different developments of halogen-free flame retardant of polyacrylonitrile at home and abroad were analyzed and the corresponding suggestions were put forward. It presents a new prospect for the development of flame retardant technology for polyacrylonitrile in the future. In addition, it points out that high efficiency, smoke suppression and environmental-friendly flame retardant technology will become an important development direction of flame retardant polyacrylonitrile in the future.