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Table of Content

    15 August 2019, Volume 40 Issue 08
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and properties of polyvinylidene fluoride photothermal nanofiber membrane
      GAO Shangpeng, HUANG Qinglin, DAI Wei, XIAO Changfa
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803306
      Abstract ( 522 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (8701KB) ( 148 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of the decrease in the membrane permeate flux caused by temperature polarization in the process of vacuum membrane distillation (VMD), polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) was used as a membrane-forming polymer, and functional antimony doped tin oxide (ATO) with the infrared-induced thermal effect was introduced. PVDF/ATO nanofiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning and then subjected to heat pressing treatment to optimize the fiber structure and pore size. Then, the influences of ATO addition and heat pressing temperature on the morphologies and properties of the membranes were investigated. The results show that the PVDF/ATO nanofiber membrane has better physical properties after heat pressing treatment at 170 ℃. When the ATO addition amount is 3%, the surface temperature of the PVDF/ATO nanofiber membrane increases by 40 ℃ after infrared irradiation for 120 s, the permeate flux of VMD increases from 12 L/(m 2·h) to 22 L/(m 2·h), and the salt rejection remains above 99% during the operation for 5 h.

      Morphology and structure reconstruction and mechanism of Sn/C nanofibers anode for lithium battery
      ZHAO Jinyang, SUN Yao, ZHANG Xin, ZHANG Yueyue, ZHAO Haoyue, XIA Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  7-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180706107
      Abstract ( 359 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (6629KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      In order to improve the morphology and structure of Sn/C nanofibers and obtain excellent lithium electrical properties, Sn/C precursor nanofibers were prepared from polyacrylonitrile as the carbon source and Sn(CH3COO)2 as the precursor by electrospinning. Sn/C nanofibers with a porous and skin-core structure were prepared by different sequences of carbonization and a cryogenic treatment process. By means of morphology characterization, specific surface area analysis and crystal structure analysis, the structure and properties of the nanofibers were tested. The results show that the porous and the special carbon coated structure effectively prevents the agglomeration of the Sn particles, relieves the volume expansion to reduce the capacity loss, and increases the conductivity and the structural stability of the material. The Sn/C nanofibers with a porous structure obtained by cryogenic treatment before carbonization exhibit the most stable electrochemical performance, and the specific capacity retention after 100 cycles is as high as 93.9%.

      Preparation and optimization of carboxyl viscose fiber grafted with silkworm chrysalis peptide
      YIN Sili, YANG Yang, JIANG Wen, SHI Yexin, ZHOU Xiaohua, HUANG Jinhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  14-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180804406
      Abstract ( 437 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (6238KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      In order to improve the skin affinity and dyeing property of viscose fibers, carboxyl viscose fiber was prepared by oxidation of glucose oxidase(GOD). Silkworm peptide was grafted to the viscose fiber using N,N-dicyclohexylcarbodiimide(DCC) as crosslinking agent, and the main physicochemical and dyeing properties were characterized. The results show that the grafted silkworm peptide carboxyl viscose fiber is composed of 15 kinds of amino acids. The silkworm peptide is located on the surface of carboxyl viscose fiber. The reactions of the fiber with water-soluble aniline blue, basic fuchsin and biuret all show specific dyeing. The grafted silkworm peptide carboxyl viscose fiber is successfully prepared. The optimum process for the preparation of carboxyl viscose fiber by GOD is: pH value of 5.5, the temperature of 35 ℃, the percentage of glucose oxidase in fiber mass of 6%. The optimum process of grafting the carboxyl viscose fiber with silkworm peptide is pH value of 4.0 and the temperature of 60 ℃, the dosage of DCC of 40% of fiber mass.

      Structure and properties of braided tube reinforced polylactic acid hollow fiber membranes
      XIAO Chuanmin, XIAO Changfa, ZHANG Tai, WANG Xinya
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  20-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180903107
      Abstract ( 377 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (11337KB) ( 251 )   Save
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      In order to prepare polylactic acid (PLA) hollow fiber membranes with high strength and high separation precision, homogenous and heterogeneous braided tube reinforced PLA hollow fiber membranes were prepared by concentric circular spinning technique. The influences of polyethylene glycol (PEG) molecular weight on the structure and properties of the homogenous reinforced membranes were investigated. Moreover, the influences of homogenous and heterogeneous braided tubes on the interfacial bonding properties were also studied by physically back washing and ultrasonically water bathing shaking.The results show that with the increase of the PEG molecular weight, the surface pores size of the membranes decreases. In addition, the permeate flux of the membranes increases firstly and then decreases, and the bovine serum albumin rejection ratio increases first and then stabilizes with the increase of the PEG molecular weight. It is also found that the interface adhesion between homogeneous braid tube and PLA hollow fiber membranes are better than the heterogeneous ones.

      Controllability of bead structure in hot air-through bonded nonwovens and crystallization kinetics thereof
      ZHOU Ling, JIN Xiangyu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  27-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180706908
      Abstract ( 417 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (6808KB) ( 72 )   Save
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      In order to realize the controllability of bead structures in hot air-through bonded nonwovens, a secondary heating process was adopted. By controlling the processing temperature and processing time as well as the sheath-core ratio of polyethylene/polyester (PE/PET) composite fibers, beads of different structures were prepared. The change rule of the bead structure was analyzed by using Image Pro Plus image processing software. The crystallization properties of the bead fibers in the web were investigated by an X-ray diffractometer. Differential scanning calorimetry was also adopted to trace the crystallization process of bead structures in the web. The results show that the PE/PET bicomponent fibers with a sheath-core ratio of 50:50 can achieve the most rounded (irregular parameter value close to 1) bead structure under the conditions of the secondary heating temperature of 140 ℃ and the reheating time of 120 s. With the increase of temperature, the crystallinity of bead fiber increases first and then decreases. The isothermal crystal kinetics analysis of the Avrami equation shows that the Avrami index is around 1, and as the crystallization temperature increases, the crystallization rate decreases gradually.

      Textile Engineering
      Measurement for bending behavior by bowknot method
      YU Fang, LIU Chengxia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  35-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501606
      Abstract ( 367 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (5684KB) ( 95 )   Save
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      Aiming at the actuality that for the measurement of the fabric bending behavior, more than one fabric samples are needed to obtain more than one test result, a simple and fabric saving bowknot method for testing the bending behavior of wool fabric was proposed, and the detailed method and parameters of area, width, height and angle of bowknot were elaborated. 18 kinds of wool fabrics were used to compare the new method with the conventional method. The results show that the correlations between the four indexes in the new method and bending rigidity are good. The bowknots of stiffer wool fabrics will have larger angle, width and area, but smaller height. The area of the bowknot has the highest correlation with the bending rigidity. Moreover, the regression equation between the area bowknot and the bending rigidity is established for the predicting the fabric bending rigidity.

      Appearance and performance of linen/colored polyester wrapping composite yarn
      AO Limin, TANG Wen, WANG Ailin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  40-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180300308
      Abstract ( 442 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (9065KB) ( 97 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the color mixing characteristics of linen/colored polyester wrapping composite yarn and the influence of wrapping twist on color mixing effect and composite yarn properties, using colored polyester interlaced yarns as the outer wrapping yarns and the linen bleached yarn as the core yarns, composite yarns with different colors and wrapping twists were spun. The appearance characteristics of the composite yarns were analyzed, and the tensile properties, unevenness, yarn faults and hairiness of the composite yarns were tested and comparative analyzed. The results show that the composite yarns have the characteristics of bast color, wrapping twists are great at the slubs, presenting a light color, and twists are small at the thin places of core linen yarn, presenting a deep color, the composite yarn shows weak segment-colored effect along the longitudinal direction of the composite yarn. The color mixing texture and color depth of the composite yarn can be changed by changing the wrapping twist. The wrapping combination can improve the breaking strength and elongation of linen yarn, enhance yarn unevenness and reduce yarn defects and hairiness. When the wrapping composite yarn is stretched, non-simultaneous fracture may happen between the core yarn and the outer wrapping yarn, but the probability of occurrence will decrease as the wrapping twist increases.

      Numerical simulation on low velocity impact response of three-dimensional sandwich composites with different core height
      LUO Chao, CAO Haijian, HUANG Xiaomei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  48-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180606907
      Abstract ( 465 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (11558KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to study the mechanical response and damage mechanism of the three-dimensional sandwich composites at low velocity, a microstructural model of three-dimensional sandwich composites with different core material heights was established for simulation by means of the ANSYS finite element software, and the simulated values were compared with the experimental values. The results show that the low velocity impact resistance of the sandwich composite material increases with the increase of the core material height from the macroscopic angle, and the damage of the material with the height of 5 mm is more serious when the upper plate is damaged, and the simulation results have a good consistency with the experimental results. From the microscopic perspective, the warp, weft and junction warp are the main bearing bodies, and the resin matrix plays a secondary role. Under the impact of 5 J energy, the main failure modes of the material are resin deformation, fragmentation and fiber debonding.

      Micro-deformation measurement and acoustic emission monitoring of three-dimensional braided composites under tensile loading
      ZHANG Yannan, ZHOU Wei, SHANG Yajing, ZHAO Wenzheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  55-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180506809
      Abstract ( 471 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (9564KB) ( 74 )   Save
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      In order to monitor the deformation and damage behavior of three-dimensional four-directional braided composites under tensile loading, the acoustic emission (AE) and digital image correlation method complementary techniques were adopted, and the surface local micro-deformation information and the dynamic characteristics of internal damage sources of the composites were effectively acquired. The results show that the obvious tensile strain concentration can be observed at the interweaving area of the yarns while the tensile strain value of the composite increases up to about 0.45%. The propagation of the strain concentrations along the transverse and longitudinal braiding yarns are induced as the strain level increases gradually. At the same time, more AE signals are generated,and the stiffnesses of the composite specimens are decreased. As the strain level increases up to about 1.13%, the yarns carry the main loads, and the strain band in shape of zigzag are obtained in the surface of the composite specimens. Based on the K-means cluster analysis, AE amplitudes of the main damage modes such as matrix cracking, fiber/matrix debonding and fiber breakage are 40-60, 55-100 and 40-90 dB, respectively. With the increase of the weaving thickness, the proportion of the surface region in the skin-core structures of the composite specimen decreases, resulting in the decrease of tensile strength. The peak amplitude and frequency of AE signals have no significant change.

      Establishment and application of fabrics attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy spectrum library
      WEI Zihan, LI Wenxia, DU Yujun, MA Jingwen, ZHENG Jiahui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  64-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180902505
      Abstract ( 452 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (4238KB) ( 83 )   Save
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      Aim

      ing at many processes, long time-consuming and polluting the environment when identifying pure textile fabrics by conventional methods and predicting the component contented of blended fabrics, the attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(ATR-IR) spectra of various pure spun and two-component blended fabrics were tested by using Fourier transform infrared spectrometer in combination with the attenuated total reflection (ATR) attachment, and the ATR-IR spectral library was established, which was composed of 205 pure and blended fabric samples of back-to-face as well as warp and weft with identical components. The samples comprising polyester/cotton, polyester/wool, polyester/polyamide, silk/cotton and polyester/viscose blended fabric were selected from 753 samples. 20 samples of unknown fabrics were identified and predicted by using the searching function of the self-built spectrum library, and the accuracy of recognition can reach 100% for pure spun. For blended fabric, the quantitative predicted results were not significantly different from those of national standard method by the T-test analysis in less than 3% error. The prediction greatly facilitates the rapid detection and quantification of samples.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Preparation of silicone-containing pigment capsules by miniemulsionpolymerization and printing performance thereof on polyester fabric
      CHEN Zhijie, HU Xudong, HUANG Zhuo, SONG Limiao, QI Dongming, XIANG Zhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  69-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180602707
      Abstract ( 347 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (11438KB) ( 76 )   Save
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      In order to build a high-pigment mass fraction low-thickness organosilicone-modified composite film coating on the fabric surface, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) was introduced into the pigment/monomer dispersion, then a silicone pigment capsules containing organic pigment particles (PB) and polydimethylsiloxane(PDMS) were prepared by miniemulsion polymerization. These pigment capsule emulsions were used in the pigment printing of polyester plain weave fabrics. The influence of D4 content on the morphology of fabric surface film was studied. The dry and wet rubbing fastness, K/S value, and stiffness of the printed fabric were tested and compared. The results show that when the mass fraction of D4 is 50%, a uniform and stable latex dispersion with an average particle size of 170 nm can be obtained. The investigation of the film morphology reveals that during the miniemulsion polymerization, part of D4 is ring-opened and polymerized into PDMS, which can be adopted to blend and modify the composite film. The corresponding pigment printing fabric has high rubbing fastness, low stiffness, and good color depth. It is believed that the introduction of D4 in the capsule preparation process can effectively increase the pigment mass fraction and water resistance of the composite film, and reduce the coefficient of friction on the surface of the film without affecting the dispersion state of the pigment.

      Dyeing kinetics of dyeable spandex fiber with acid dye
      HAN Hu, LI Weiting, WEI Huifang, WANG Xiaoyan, SUN Chang, XU Changhai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  76-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180801704
      Abstract ( 780 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3507KB) ( 198 )   Save
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      In order to control the dyeing course of the dyeable spandex fiber with acid dye and optimize the dyeing process, the dyeable spandex fiber was dyed by Acid Orange II. The dyeing kinetics of dyeable spandex fiber was studied by measuring the dyeing rate curve of the dyeable spandex fiber under different dyeing conditions and fitting the curve with the kinetic model. Experiment results show that the dyeable spandex fiber has a higher initial uptake rate and higher dye uptake at a lower pH value, and a rise in temperature results in a higher dyeing rate. The dyeing course of Acid Orange II on the dyeable spandex fiber follows the pseudo-second-order kinetic model. It is proved that the dyeable spandex fiber is dyed with Acid Orange II mainly by electrostatic adsorption.

      Measurement and model fitting for solubility of Disperse Red 11 in supercritical CO2
      HU Jinhua, YAN Jun, LI Hong, PENG Jianjun, ZHENG Laijiu, ZHENG Huanda, HE Tingting
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  80-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180800205
      Abstract ( 556 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4121KB) ( 214 )   Save
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      In order to realize the industrial application of supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) dyeing, a high pressure supercritical fluid experimental device was developed independently under the conditions of temperature of 353.15-393.15 K and pressure of 16-24 MPa. The solubility of Disperse Red 11 (1,4-diamino-2-methoxyanthraquinone) in supercritical carbon dioxide was measured by a dynamic method. The experimental results were fitted by Chrastil empirical model and MST equation, and the factors affecting the solubility of disperse dyes in supercritical CO2 were discussed. The results show that the higher the pressure is, the higher the density of carbon dioxide is, the higher the solubility of Disperse Red 11 in supercritical CO2. With the increase of temperature, the solubility first increases and then decreases. The optimum process conditions of solubility of Disperse Red 11 is temperature of 383.15 K and pressure of 24 MPa. The correlation level of Chrastil empirical model is above 0.90, and the correlation level of MST equation is 0.55. Chrastil empirical model has better correlation results than MST equation.

      Rapid detection of banned dye Acid Red 26 in pure wool thread based on oblique projection
      ZHANG Jingqing, SU Hui, LIANG Xiaoyun, CHEN Weiji, YAO Zhixiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  85-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803505
      Abstract ( 419 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4187KB) ( 33 )   Save
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      In order to overcome the shortcomings of conventional methods for detecting banned dyes on textiles of difficult operation, high cost, long time and great hazard, a quantitative analysis method of Acid Red 26 on wool thread was established based on the oblique projection construction algorithm using the combination of visible reflection intensity spectrum analysis and chemometrics. The results show that the linear degree of the standard curve equation is high in the range of 0.17-5.11 mg/g (coefficient of determination is 0.995 8, relative standard deliation is 1.79%). The relative error about the content of Acid Red 26 in the unknown sample is lower than 10%. The detection method is simple in operation, high in detection efficiency, and realizes rapid non-destructive detection of Acid Red 26.

      Preparation and properties of linear polyether-blocked amino silicone
      XU Chengshu, WU Mengting, REN Yan, XING Jianwei, CAI Zaisheng, OUYANG Lei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  89-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181106606
      Abstract ( 643 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (5254KB) ( 158 )   Save
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      In order to simplify the synthesis process of linear polyether-blocked amino silicone oil, the linear polyether-blocked amino silicone oil (LEPS) was prepared by ring opening polymerization using diterminal aminoether and diterminal epoxy polyether silicone as monomers and isopropyl alcohol as a solvent, and the LEPS was applied to the soft finishing of knitted cashmere fabric. The physicochemical properties of LEPS and fabrics finished with LEPS were characterized by means of Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, thermogravimetric analysis, multi-functional surface analysis electron spectrometer and scanning electron microscopy. The results show that when the mole ratio of two monomers is 1:1, the ammonia value of LEPS is 0.14 mmol/g, and the molar mass is 7.39×10 4 g/mol, and the emulsion has excellent stability. The fabric finished with LEPS has outstanding soft and fluffy properties, hand feeling to grade 5 and good hydrophilicity, moisture permeability and static resistance as well as low degree of yellowing. LEPS has the advantages of excellent comprehensive properties and simple preparation process.

      Influence of plasma treatment on electrical conductivity of polypyrrole/polyester composite yarn
      JIANG Shan, WAN Ailan, MIAO Xuhong, JIANG Gaoming, MA Pibo, CHEN Qing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180601006
      Abstract ( 378 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (6430KB) ( 146 )   Save
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      In order to improve the surface adhesion fastness of the conductive polymer polypyrrole (PPy) on the polyester (PET) filament, the sub-vacuum plasma treatment technology was used for surface modification of polyester fiber, and the composite conductive PPy/PET yarns were prepared by in-situ polymerization method. The influence of plasma treatment on the electrical conductivity and durability of PPy/PET composite conductive yarns was investigated. The results show that the tiny concave pits appear on the surface of polyester fiber by the high-energy reactive particle bombardment of sub-vacuum plasma processing, which can effectively improve the surface roughness of the polyester fiber without significant influence on the mechanical properties of the substrate. The continuity and evenness of the PPy thin films was achieved by the sub-vacuum plasma treatment. The adhesion between PPy thin film and polyester yarns, the electrical conductivity and durability of composite conductive yarns were improved by the sub-vacuum plasma treatment. The electrical conductivity of composite conductive PPy/PET yarns before and after sub-vacuum plasma treatment is 0.67 and 1.16 S/cm, respectively.

      Low-temperature bleaching of cotton knitted fabrics using hydrogen peroxide in presence of copper complex catalysts
      ZHANG Fan, ZHANG Ru, ZHOU Wenchang, ZHOU Hui, WANG Nanfang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  101-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180401208
      Abstract ( 674 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (5992KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      In order to overcome the shortcomings of high energy consumption and great damage on cotton knitted fabrics in the conventional high-temperature bleaching, copper complex CuM and CuN for the cotton fabric low-temperature bleaching process were prepared by reacting N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)ethylenediamine and tris(aminoethyl)amine with salicylaldehyde, respectively to produce Schiff base ligands M and N, and reacting with copper salt. The compounds were characterized by infrared spectrometer and nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometer. The influence of CuM and CuN on catalytic decomposition characteristics of hydrogen peroxide and the copper complex-hydrogen peroxide low temperature bleaching process factors on the fabric whiteness were studied. The comparison experiments between low-temperature and conventional bleaching processes were carried out. The order of H2O2 decomposition reaction is one and their kinetics of CuM and CuN are 0.055 and 0.042 min -1, respectively, much higher than that of the pristine. The whiteness of cotton fabrics bleached by CuN-H2O2 system is 80.0% comparable with the conventional process, and the former capillary and strength retention are superior to the later.

      Influence of graphene oxide/polyaniline functional film on electromagnetic shielding property of cotton fabrics
      ZOU Lihua, XU Zhenzhen, SUN Yanyan, WANG Tairan, QIU Yiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  109-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180504908
      Abstract ( 503 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (8986KB) ( 145 )   Save
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      In order to prepare lightweight and efficient electromagnetic shielding fabric of absorption-type, a graphene oxide (GO)/polyaniline (PANI) functional film was coated on cotton fabric using layer-by-layer assembling method. The influences of the concentration of aniline (AN) monomer, the concentration of GO and the number of assembly layers on the electrical properties and electromagnetic shielding properties of cotton fabrics were studied. The absorptivity, reflectivity, and shielding effectiveness due to absorption and reflection were analyzed. The results show that the increase of AN concentration and the number of assembling bilayer improve the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of the fabric, but with the increase of GO concentration, the shielding effectiveness value of the fabric increases first and then decreases, the shielding effectiveness of fabric with 4 bilayers of GO/PANI reaches 19.91 dB, which could shield 98.98% of electromagnetic energy, the absorptivity of the fabric is 57.63%, and the reflectivity is 41.35%, the main shielding mechanism is absorption.

      Preparation and properties of multifunctional composite conductive wool fabric
      WANG Wencong, FAN Jingjing, DING Chao, WANG Hongbo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  117-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190202207
      Abstract ( 392 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (6830KB) ( 176 )   Save
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      Multifunctional conductive wool fabric was successfully prepared by alternatively depositing carboxylic multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs-COOH) and polypyrrole (PPy) on the charged surface of wool fabric. The influence of experimental conditions on the conductivity were determined using digital multimeter, and the structure, wash resistance, antibacterial property and water repellent property of composite conductive wool fabric prepared under the relatively optimal conditions were investigated. The results show that when the concentration of MWCNTs-COOH, PPy and FeCl3·6H2O are 1.0 mg/mL, 1.00 mol/L and 1.00 mol/L, respectively, the reaction time of oxypolymerization is 30 min, the temperature of oxypolymerization is about 0 ℃ and the number of assembly bilayers is 5, composite conductive fabric with the electrical conductivity around 110 S/m exhibits better conductive properties. The surface of wool fabric is covered by MWCNTs-COOH/PPy multilayers. The conductivity can reach 98.8 S/m after washing for 10 cycles, showing that the composite conductive wool fabric has good washing resistance. Besides, the composite fabric possesses a collection of various functions such as antibacterial property and water repellent properties.

      Detection methods of photochromic textiles
      ZHAO Boyan, ZHAO Yuzhu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  124-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180805606
      Abstract ( 639 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (4972KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In order to provide the detection methods for the chromogenic performance of the photochromic textiles, taking commercial photochromic textiles as research objects, by simulating the excitation environment and measuring the color change of the commercial photochromic textiles with a portable spectrophotometer, the discoloration and recovery mechanism were studied and the detection methods of photochromic textiles were established. The results show that the color change of the samples increases first, then decreases and reaches stable after 3 min under irradiation. The discoloration and recovery processes are not influenced by the solar irradiance. One standard sunlight is provided as an excitation light source by using an AM1.5 filter and adjusting the irradiance to 1 000 W/m 2. The samples are irradiated for 5 min, and recovered for 30 min. The discoloration and recovery chromatic aberration of the photochromic textiles are determined by human eyes and instrument assessment to effectively detect the chromogenic performance of the photochromic textiles. The detection methods are simple, easy to operate,highly reliable, and can be standardized.

      Influence of clothing pressure on muscle fatigue during men's cycling
      CHENG Ningbo, WU Zhiming, KE Sicheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  130-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180907406
      Abstract ( 579 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (4933KB) ( 167 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of clothing pressure on the body fatigue caused by cycling pants during cycling, 11 riders were used as experimental subjects, subjects worn clothing samples of different sizes, the clothing pressure test system and the full wireless surface emg test system were adopted to collect the clothing pressure values and surface emg signal of the main muscle parts of the lower limbs of the tight-fitting trousers during the cycling, correlation analysis was performed on the rating of perceived exertion(RPE) values, the objective indicators root mean square(RMS) and median frequency(MF), and variance analysis was performed on the clothing pressure and the emg index. The results show that the surface emg time domain index RMS and the frequency domain index MF have a certain correlation with the subjective fatigue, and the correlation between the two indexes is different. RMS and MF can be used as important indicators for the fatigue evaluation of muscles in a biomechanical view. High clothing pressure can reduce the muscle energy loss, and has a certain relief effect on the muscle fatigue, especially in the middle and late stages of the cycling exercise. The influence of clothing pressure on different parts of the muscle varies, the outside of the thigh and the inner muscles are significantly affected, and no significant effect exists on musculus glutaeus maximus.

      Equivalent luminance of children nocturnal safety garments
      YAN Yanhong, WANG Laili, GU Bingfei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  136-140.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180700205
      Abstract ( 484 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4244KB) ( 101 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate the visibility of children nocturnal safety garments with warning and reminding functions, four children nocturnal safety garments were made of colored luminous fiber and luminous fabrics. By measuring the emission spectrum and the afterglow decay, the equivalent luminance of samples were calculated with the view field of 2°and 10°. Then, the relationship between the equivalent luminance of samples and the measured luminance of samples was studied. The results show that the value of the equivalent luminance of samples are greater than that of the measured luminance. The visual efficiency of the stripe fabric sample is the highest, followed by embroidered garment sample and flannelette fabric sample, and the visual efficiency of samples made of multicolor luminous fiber is better than those made of monochrome luminous fiber. The attenuation trend of equivalent luminance of samples is similar to that of measured luminance of samples. The value of equivalent luminance decreases gradually with time until it tends to be stable and has no significant change in a certain time (about 800 s).

      Study on pressing of side lying face and design of multifunctional sleeping pillow
      ZHANG Lei, MA Xiaojing, WANG Xueqin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  141-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180904005
      Abstract ( 692 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (5057KB) ( 260 )   Save
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      Aim

      ing at whether the normal sleeping pillow has pressing on the face when a person is lying on the side and how to avoid or reduce the pressing, the blood flow microcirculation experiment was performed on three subjects by using a medical blood vessel imager TEKSQRAY-BVI. A four-wing split-type multifunctional sleeping pillow with anti-face embossing effect was designed, and the Tactilus pressure pad was used to compare the new structure sleeping pillow with the common S-type latex pillow for the body pressure distribution test. Whether the pillow can effectively reduce or eliminate this effect was investigated. By comparing the change rate of the pressure point and the non-pressure point, the influence of the sleeping pillow on the side of the face is greater. The results of the pressure distribution map show that the use of the four-wing split type multifunctional sleeping pillow can make the side face suspend in a large area, thereby avoiding the pressing of the side of the sleeping pillow and the corner of the eye.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Structure optimization for work roll of carding machine
      LI Zhiqiang, NI Li, ZHAO Zexiang, ZHANG Hong, LIANG Ying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  146-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180903005
      Abstract ( 573 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (4655KB) ( 88 )   Save
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      In order to improve the straightness of domestic carding machine work roll subjected to the card clothing weight and with self-weight, the structure analysis and study were carried out for a certain type domestic work roll with ANSYS. On the basis of the analysis and study, the optimum design of carding machine work roll was carried out. Firstly, the mathematical model of topological optimization and size optimization was established, and the sensitivity of the objective function to design variables was deduced in the topology optimization mathematical model. Then, the two-step optimization scheme was proposed based on analysis and study of the work roll, and the structure of work roll was optimized by topology optimization and size optimization successively based on ANSYS APDL and the own optimizer. The results show that the materials are distributed to it's right place, and the maximum of deflection reduce from 0.33 mm to 0.11 mm with the constrained stress, the maximum of deflection obtained by optimization reduces by 67% compared with the non-optimized one, the straightness of the work roll is improved, and the performance of the work roll is also improved.

      Influence of interval distance of double-needle bed warp-knitting machine on yarn demand
      XU Yunlong, XIA Fenglin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  151-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702506
      Abstract ( 382 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (5246KB) ( 58 )   Save
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      In order to solve the yarn fluctuation caused by the interval distance of the double-needle bed warp-knitting machine, the intrinsic correlation of interval distance and the fluctuation of the yarn demand was analyzed. The displacement curves of the knitting needles and the guide needles in the process of forming a double-needle bed warp-knitting machine were tracked by using the KEYENCE VW-6000 dynamic analysis three-dimensional microscope system, the collocation of guide needle and knitting needles was analyzed, and the whole yarn demand fluctuation in the knitting area of the warp-knitting machine was calculated. A geometrical model of the coil parts in the process of the front needle bed knitting loop-forming was established. The function relation between the swing amplitude of guide bar and knocking-over bar was deduced. Then, the linear relation model between the integral yarn-demand fluctuation of the double-needle bed warp-knitting machine and the spacing of the knocking-over bar was obtained. Finally, a kind of movable rod tension bar with double compensation capability was designed, which can effectively reduce the yarn fluctuation during knitting.

      Prediction method of integrated piercing pressure parameters based on machine learning
      YANG Jingzhao, JIANG Xiuming, DONG Jiuzhi, CHEN Yunjun, MEI Baolong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  157-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180606307
      Abstract ( 410 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (6313KB) ( 102 )   Save
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      In view of the problem that the spring back of carbon cloth leads to a large fluctuation range of average layer height and thus affects the performance of three-dimensional fabric during pressurized compaction process of integrated piercing, a real-time prediction method of pressure parameters based on machine learning theory was proposed. The complex modeling of the relationship between the average layer height and the pressurized parameters was transformed into multiple regression problems, and an unconstrained optimization iteration method suitable for computer operation was adopted to solve the problem. Based on the scikit-learn class library, the feature variables were selected. After comparing the predictive performance scores of the six regression models, the K nearest neighbor regression were selected as the base learners, and the prediction performance of the model was improved by using the integration algorithm. The experimental results after the prediction model was deployed to the production environment show that owing to the use of the machine learning prediction, the response speed of the pressure parameters to the average level in the integrated piercing process is improved, and the mean change amplitude is reduced. The average height fluctuation range of the experimental sample product is reduced from 12.0% to 6.8%, and the standard deviation from 0.008 3 to 0.006 6.

      Management & Information
      Detection method of cohesive performance of raw silk based on machine vision
      SUN Weihong, RUAN Mianjiang, SHAO Tiefeng, LIANG Man
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  164-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180602505
      Abstract ( 443 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4623KB) ( 104 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of poor precision of artificial detection of existing raw silk cohesiveness and no objective quantitative indicators, a method based on machine vision for detecting the cohesive performance of raw silk was proposed. Firstly, the collected raw silk images were subjected to binarization processing, interference information removal, image filling and raw silk edge detection, and single-pixel raw silk edge feature was obtained. Then, by calculating the linear distance between the upper and lower edge points of the raw silk, the relative change of the diameter of the raw silk was obtained, and the cracked area was determined according to the axial length of the change of the diameter of the raw silk. Finally, the cohesive performance of the raw silk was characterized by the times of raw silk cohesion frictions corresponding to the cracked area greater than 6 mm. The experimental results show that the diameter values of the 200 sets of raw silk measured by the detection method are compared with the diameter values measured by the microscope, and the errors are all within 5%, which satisfies the requirement of raw silk cohesion performance detection.

      Research on weaving scheduling using main objective evolutionary genetic algorithm
      MENG Shuo, PAN Ruru, GAO Weidong, WANG Jing'an, ZHOU Lijun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  169-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180505606
      Abstract ( 419 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (4653KB) ( 163 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of large quantities, small specifications of orders, numerous products and strict delivery requirements in the textile industry, an automatic weaving scheduling method using main evolutionary genetic algorithm was proposed. A parallel weaving scheduling model with different loom type constraints was established to modify a common fast non-dominant genetic algorithm with the main goal of meeting the order delivery date and secondary goal of minimizing the change of variety and minimizing the completion time. Then a simulation experiment of the scheduling scheme was carried out. The result show that the effect of each objective function superior to the manual scheduling method, which shows a certain practical application effect to solve the current weaving scheduling problem. In order to further improve the performance of the algorithm, an adaptive method was carried out to optimize the genetic parameters. The optimized algorithm can avoid the precocity and enhance the global search ability, and the objective function of optimized algorithm is further improved.

      Numerical calculation and analysis of three-dimensional flow field in melt-blown process
      JI Changchun, ZHANG Kaiyuan, WANG Yudong, WANG Xinhou
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  175-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180806806
      Abstract ( 490 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (5228KB) ( 137 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of the end face of the gas-slot in the melt-blown die on the air flow field and the fiber drawing process, a three-dimensional flow field was numerically analyzed. The structural model of the slot die was established by Gambit. The Fluent software was adopted to numerically calculate the three-dimensional flow field from the slot die, and the velocity, temperature and pressure distribution in the flow field were analyzed. The results show that the end face of the gas-slot has a certain influence on the flow field distribution. As the distance from the center of the flow field increases, the velocity and temperature on the spinning line decreases, and the static pressure changes little. The velocity, temperature and pressure distribution on the spinning line near the center of the flow field are very small. The temperature, velocity and static pressure on the spinning line near the end face of thegas-slot are the lowest. The distribution characteristics of the three-dimensional flow field causes differences in fineness and performance of the melt-blown fibers.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress on flame retardant modification of polyacrylonitrile fiber
      REN Yuanlin, JIANG Li'na, HUO Tongguo, TIAN Tian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(08):  181-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180709508
      Abstract ( 518 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (7188KB) ( 259 )   Save
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      In order to effectively solve the flammable defects of polyacrylonitrile fibers and its fabrics and promote the industrial application of polyacrylonitrile products, the research progress of flame retardant modification of polyacrylonitrile at home and abroad was systematically reviewed. The flame retardant mechanism and five main flame retardant modification methods of polyacrylonitrile were introduced. The characteristics and shortcomings of each method during the preparation of flame retardant polyacrylonitrile fibers were expounded and analyzed. The research status of flame retardant polyacrylonitrile at home and abroad was summarized, and the future research of flame retardant modification of polyacrylonitrile was prospected. It is pointed out that blending, copolymerization and chemical modification are expected to become the main methods of industrialization. With the concept of environmental protection gradually strengthened, the research on green environment-friendliness halogen-free flame retardant fiber is deepened, and the development of halogen-free flame retardant polyacrylonitrile fiber will become the focus of research and industrialization.