Table of Content

15 October 2019, Volume 40 Issue 10

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Fiber Materials

Preparation and properties of polyacrylonitrile-based activated hollow carbon nanofibers

LI Shufeng, CHENG Bowen, LUO Yongsha, WANG Hui, XU Jingwei

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180708806

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In order to prepare polyacrylonitrile (PAN) activated hollow carbon nanofibers (AHCNF) with higher porosity, the self-prepared PAN copolymers were coaxially electrospun, pre-oxidized, carbonized and activated to prepare AHCNF. The influences of the pore-forming agents on the morphology and porosity were further investigated. The results show that the prepared PAN copolymers has a lower cyclization temperature and less heat release during cyclization, facilitating the pre-oxidation. The carbonization process converses the C—O bond on the PAN surface into the C=O double band, and the activation process converts the C=O double bond into an ester group. The activated hollow carbon nanofibers prepared by adding the pore-forming agent and by adding no pore-forming agent have cross sections with an obvious hollow structure and compact fiber walls. For the activated porous hollow carbon nanofibers (p-AHCNF) prepared by adding the pore-forming agents, the BET total specific surface area increases from 55.719 m²/g to 532.639 m²/g, the pore volume increases from 0.070 cm³/g to 0.312 cm³/g, the average mesopore diameter increases from 3.408 nm to 4.309 nm, and the yields decreases from 27.14% to 9.44%.

Preparation and antibacterial activity of silk fibroin/chitosan microspheres

ZHANG Zhibin, LI Gang, MAO Senxian, LI Xunxun, CHEN Yushuang, MAO Qingshan, LI Yi, PAN Zhijuan, WANG Xiaoqin

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  7-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181003306

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In order to develop a natural and harmless antibacterial finishing agent which is beneficial to human body, silk fibroin/chitosan microspheres were prepared by emulsion polymerization. The microscopic morphology, chemical structure, thermal stability and antibacterial properties of the microspheres with different ratios of silk fibroin and chitosan were examined. The results show that the silk fibroin mass fraction is 6%, the chitosan mass fraction is 3%, and the volume ratio of chitosan to silk fibroin is 1∶2, the microspheres have a spherical shape and smooth surface with particle size between 0.4 to 1.4 μm. In addition, it has a good antibacterial effect against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, with the antibacterial ratio of(82 ± 4.2)% and(80 ± 2.6)%, respectively. The secondary structure of the microspheres changes from silk I to silk II, and the initiation temperature of thermal decomposition is higher than 250 ℃, showing good thermal stability.

Kinetics and properties of phosphorus flame retardant copolymerized polyester

CHEN Yong, WANG Ying, HE Feng, WANG Jing, ZHU Zhiguo, DONG Zhenfeng, WANG Rui

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  13-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000607

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In order to investigate the reaction law and influencing factors of copolymerized phosphorus-based flame retardant polyesters(PET), flame retardant co-PETs was prepared by using 2-carboxyethyl phenyl phosphinic acid (CEPPA) as a co-monomer flame retardant. The kinetic model of the polycondensation reaction of PET and flame retardant co-PETs were established, and the trend and reasons of the kinetic model were analyzed. The structure and properties of polymer were characterized by infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry, limiting oxygen index and cone calorimetry. The results show that with the increase of the mass fraction of CEPPA, the actiration energy of reaction increases to 106.83 kJ/mol. The glass transition temperature and melting point decreases with the increase of the flame retardant because the group structure of CEPPA is polymerized into the macromolecular chain, which inhibits the crystallization of the PET. PET with the phosphorus content of 1% can achieve the optimal flame retardancy, limit oxygen index can be up to 31%, the ignition time is prolonged obviously, and the peak heat release rate decreases by 24%.

Preparation of cellulose nanofibrils aerogel and its adsorption of methylene blue

XU Chunxia, JIANG Shuai, HAN Fuyi, XU Fang, LIU Lifang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  20-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180905406

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In order to solve the adsorption problem of methylene blue (MB) in dyeing wastewater, a cellulose nanofiber(CNF) aerogel was prepared from rice straw CNF suspension by freezing and thawing gel, displacing with tert-butanol solvent and freeze drying with liquid nitrogen. The morphology structure of the aerogel as well as its adsorption capacity to MB was characterized. The influences of adsorbent quality and solution pH value on the adsorption performance were also investigated. The adsorption mechanism was discussed by adsorption kinetics and adsorption isotherm model. The results show that the CNF aerogel obtained by freeze-drying of tert-butanol has a three-dimensional network structure which contains a large number of spider-like fibers with a diameter of 6-26 nm. The aerogel exhibits a porous structure with a specific surface area of 52.25 m²/g, and an average pore size of 28.82 nm. The pseudo-second-order adsorption kinetic and Freundlich adsorption isothermal model are more suitable for describing the adsorption process of methylene blue on CNF aerogel, with the theoretical maximum adsorption of 196.08 mg/g.

Preparation of poly(meth)acrylate hollow fiber with internal coating of manganese oxide and its capability to decolorize dyes of methylene blue

GUO Dongyan, XU Naiku, XIAO Changfa

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  26-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180903507

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In order to enhance the decolorization efficiency of methylene blue (MB) when it flows in the poly(meth)acrylate hollow fiber, the blend solution of poly (butyl methacrylate-co-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and poly (butyl acrylate-co-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) synthesized via solution polymerization was used as spinning dope to prepare the above hollow fiber through wet spinning. The process of internal coating was then designed to immobilize in-situ generated manganese oxide onto the inside of hollow fiber through complexation. Meanwhile, the changes of morphology and surface element of hollow fibers before and after functionalization were analyzed by using field emission scanning electron microscopy and X-ray electron spectroscopy, and the composition of manganese oxide was then determined. Additionally, total organic carbon analyzer and inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometer were used to investigate the decolorization of MB. The results show that as far as the hollow fiber prepared after coating is considered, when the aqueous solution of MB flowed into its inside decolorization efficiency is increased from original 10% to 78.7%, and the decolorization efficiency is much higher than 10% even though the manganese oxide-coated hollow fiber is used for several times. It is clear that the strong oxidation of manganese oxide is responsible for the improvement of decolorization efficiency.

Effect of polyethylene glycol on photocatalytic properties of polyethylene terephthalate fibers treated with titanium sulfate under hydrothermal conditions

HAN Ye, ZHANG Hui, ZHU Guoqing, WU Hailiang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  33-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180905309

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In order to investigate the effect of TiO₂ particle sizes on the photocatalytic activity of TiO₂-coated polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers, nano-scaled TiO₂ particles were loaded on the surface of PET fibers treated with titanium sulfate, urea and polyethylene glycol as raw materials by a hydrothermal method. The photocatalytic degradation of methylene blue (MB) dye solution by the TiO₂-coated PET fibers was measured under ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. The reasons for the improvement of photoactivity by using polyethylene glycol (PEG) as a dispersing agent were studied by scanning electron microscope, laser particle size analyzer, X-ray diffraction, and so on. It is found that the particle size and loading amount of TiO₂ nanoparticles loaded on PET fibers are affected by the dosage and molecular weight of PEG used. In comparison with the TiO₂-coated PET fibers without adding PEG, the TiO₂-coated PET fibers treated with 12.5 mL/L of PEG400 can efficiently photodegrade the MB dye solution due to the small average particle size of 9.4 nm TiO₂ particles. In addition, the total organic carbon(TOC) contents of methylene blue dye aqueous solution in the presence of TiO₂-coated PET fibers decrease from 0.001 11% to 0.000 46% after being exposed to 120 min of UV irradiation.

Preparation of porous ZnO films by coaxial electrospinning and photocatalytic performance thereof

XIN Minyue, ZHENG Qiang, WU Jiangdan, LIANG Liefeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  42-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908106

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In order to prepare light photocatalysts with large specific surface area, aiming at the problem that most of polymer carriers in electrospinning are polluted and non-renewable, ZnAc/silk fibroin(SF) nanofiber films were prepared by coaxial electrospinning using silk fibroin as carrier, and then ZnAc/SF nanofiber films were immersed in Na₂S solution to prepare ZnS/SF nanofiber films. Finally, porous ZnO films were obtained by calcination. The structure, element composition, surface morphology and optical properties of the samples were characterized by X-ray diffraction, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, Scanning electron microscope and UV-Vis absorption spectra. Besides, the photocatalytic performance of samples were studied by MB degrading tests. The results show that the porous ZnO film is a mesoporous network composed of 10-20 nm nanoparticles with the capability of absorbing ultraviolet light. The film is stronger in photocatalytic activity than the ZnS/C nanofiber film, and has the degradation efficiency of methylene blue up to 99.5%. In addition, porous ZnO films can be easily recycled and reused, and the degradation efficiency reaches 91% after four cycles.

Textile Engineering

Properties of soft-spun viscose hard-twist yarn and fabric thereof

XU Duo, WEI Jiang, MEI Jianxiang, ZHANG Xinling, ZHANG Youqing, XU Weilin, LIU Keshuai

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  48-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000708

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In order to better explore the improvement of the viscose hard twist yarn and the wearability of its woven fabrics, yarn uniformity, hairiness, yarn strength, contraction rate and apparent structure of soft-spun and ring-spun viscose hard twist yarn were tested and compared under the same process parameters. The strength, bursting properties, tearing properties, air permeability, moisture permeability, softness and pilling resistance of the same specifications of soft-spun and ring-spun viscose fabrics were tested. The results show that the soft-spun viscose hard twist yarn has less hairiness, uniform strips, high strength and low contraction rate. Moreover, compared with the spun viscose fabrics, the soft-spun viscose woven fabric has significantly improved in tensile strength, bursting performance, tearing property, air permeability and moisture permeability, softness and pilling resistance, but the hygroscopicity is lowered. The soft-spun viscose hard twist yarn has the characteristics of smoothness, neatness and firmness, and the comprehensive wearability of the soft-spun fabric is superior to that of the ring-spun one.

Simulation and analysis of three-dimensional flow field in four-roller compact spinning system

QIAN Cheng, LIU Yanqing, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping, XU Bojun

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  56-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908906

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In order to investigate the compacting effect produced by airflow in four-roller compact spinning, the fluid dynamics model which is in the compact region of the four-roller compact spinning system was established by using ICEM CFD software. The software ANSYS Fluent Release 16.0 was adopted to calculate the flow field and characterize the airflow distribution in the compact region. The distribution of flow field and the velocity distribution rule in the compact region were also characterized. Finally different pressures in the compact region was arranged to spin yarn for testing. The results show that the slope of 6 degrees of the compact region has no effect on the horizontal static pressure at the inlet. The horizontal static pressure of the compact region is U-shaped. The effects of velocity components of different axial directions on the fiber bundles are different, and the airflow of lateral compacting direction also can twist the fiber bundles. As the static pressure increases, the breaking strength and evenness of composite yarn increase, while the breaking elongation and hairiness of composite yarn decrease.

Drafting mechanism and application of spun yarn produced by large diameter soft rubber-covered roll

WEI Yanhong, XIE Chunping, LIU Xinjin, SU Xuzhong, YIN Gaowei

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  62-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180505506

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In order to improve the yarn quality and reduce the consumption, new drafting elements such as large diameter soft rubber-covered rolls were used in the production of spun yarn. The drafting principle and application mechanism were analyzed. By using large diameter soft rubber-covered rolls, configuring reasonable process parameters, increasing the roller distance and using the central-top roller with low tenacity the butadiene-acrylonitrile rubber-covered roll instead of the MR carbon fiber roller and increasing the diameter of roller, and the pressure on the cradle is reduced, and the purpose of energy saving on the basis of improving the yarn quality was also achieved. Through the different production of yarns with spinning frame, the change of the yarn quality under the condition of light pressurization of the large diameter soft rubber-covered roll was studied with the increase of the draw ratio of the yarn. The results show that the large diameter soft rubber-covered roll of the spun yarn has better advantage in heavy basis roving, the large and superhigh drafting of spinning, the Siro-spinning and other varieties. Yarn detail is significantly reduced. At the same time, it can also solve the special mechanical wave problem of the spun yarn.

Current response in stretching process of Cu-Ni metal-coated woven fabric

JIA Gaopeng, SONG Xiaohong, LI Ying, LIU Xiaodan, PAN Xueru

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  68-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180200505

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In order to investigate the sensing performance of metal-coated woven fabric as soft sensor, the current variation of the fabric to tension at different tensile speeds was experimentally investigated by means of a fabric tension machine and a self-made current acquisition system. The rule of current response to tension was discussed. The influence of different tensile speeds on the current response and the difference between sensitivity in warp and weft direction was analyzed. The results show that the current response of polyester-based metal-coated woven fabric to the tensile in the warp and weft direction shows high linearity at higher tensile speeds, the current response to the low-speed tensile shows more worse linearity compared with that to higher-speed tensile, and the sensitivity of the fabric to tensile in warp and weft directions will decrease with the tensile speed increase. The fabric shows the better elongation at break in the weft direction than that in the warp direction, the current response in the weft direction shows the higher sensitivity than that in the warp direction, and larger sensitivities exist in low speed stretching process.

Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  73-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104106

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In order to promote the design and development of fully formed sweater, the forming rule of fully formed sweater was studied by means of case analysis and experimentation on the basis of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3. According to the characteristics and advantages of full-formed transverse knitting, three most suitable styles were selected as research examples, and their process design methods and forming principles were analyzed. The feasibility of the theory was verified by the actual weaving on the machine. The results show that when the transverse knitting is adopted, both sides seam types of separates should be kept the same. When knitting upper garments, the lateral dimensions of sleeves and body can be greatly increased to achieve relaxed and random effects, and bat sleeves can be formed by sleeves and body knitting together and shoulder folding. When knitting lower garment, multi-weaving can be carried out at the hem to quickly increase the difference between waist and hem to form the wave effect.

Protective function of SiO₂ aerogel hybrid/aramid nonwovens fabric

WANG Lu, DING Xiaojun, XIA Xin, WANG Hong, ZHOU Xiaohong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  79-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181002306

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In order to research the effect of SiO₂ aerogel on the anti-pressure, flame retardant protective functions of aramid nonwoven fabric, using aramid nonwoven fabric as the skeleton material, applying SiO₂ aerogel to the surface of it, preparing SiO₂ aerogel hybrid aramid nonwoven protective material. The structure was characterized by scanning electron microscopy, and its compression function was analyzed with a universal material testing machine. Finally, using the thermal constant analyzer and the flame hand system, the flame retardant insulation properties of the prepared protective materials were tested and evaluated. The results show that the SiO₂ aerogel is filled into the gap between the fibers of the aramid nonwoven fabric in blocks or granules of different sizes. SiO₂ aerogel can enhance the pressure resistance of aramid nonwoven fabric and reduce its thermal conductivity, the total absorbed energy value of the aramid nonwoven fabric is reduced after the hybrid SiO₂ aerogel. It is illustrated that the SiO₂ aerogel can significantly enhance the thermal protection effect of aramid nonwoven fabric.

Preloaded unit cell model and elastic prediction of 2-D triaxial braided composites

ZHANG Fangfang, DUAN Yongchuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  85-91.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180802007

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Aiming at the difficulties in establishing a 2-D triaxial braided composite preloaded parameterized unit cell model, the parametric unit cell model was generated by using the voxel method to combine the discrete unit data of the deformed prefabricated parts. A periodic cubic spline was put forward for the fiber path of 2-D triaxial braided composites. Based on this spline, the material direction calculation method was established and a parametric equation describing the asymmetric lenticular plane curve was built. Considering the finite element model of the prefabricated part established by extrusion deformation, the unit cell model was generated by pre-compression using the unit cutting program. Combined with the discrete data of the deformed prefabricated element, a voxel method was used to generate a parametric unit cell model with continuous displacement on both the interface and the cell boundary. The convergence of the finite element model at different resolutions was analyzed. The results show that the elastic behavior of the 2-D triaxial braided composites could be predicted by this model.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Sizing process of silk fabric by double-sided digital ink-jet printing with same colors and designs

YE Jiahao, WANG Lili, WU Minghua, GUO Wendeng, WANG Kehao, CHEN Ni

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  92-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180707506

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In order to obtain excellent surface color and pattern sharp definition with double-side patterns on the ink-jet printed silk fabric, a double-sided digital ink-jet printing process with the same colors and designs was adopted. The influences of sizing methods on double-sided digital printing performances were investigated. The double-sided digital printing effects of seven sizing pastes on silk fabric were studied. The sizing paste with good double-sided digital printing qualities was developed by mixing technique. The results show that double-sided blade sizing is the best sizing method. Compared with the single-sided digital printing, the color strength of the printed silk fabric by double-sided digital printing is higher, and the levelness is more uniform. When the mixed ratio of sodium alginate to carboxymethyl starch is 5∶5, the silk fabric achieves the best double-sided digital printing properties with the same colors and designs.

Decolorization of polyester alcoholysis solution by electrocoagulation

CHEN Xin, ZHANG Jialin, WANG Jidong, LI Xiaoqiang, GE Mingqiao

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  98-104.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180604107

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In order to solve the problem of environmental pollution caused by polyester alcoholysis solution, the electrocoagulation was used to decolorize the solution. An aluminum electrode and a copper electrode were used as the anode and cathode of the electroflocculation reaction system, respectively. The influences of electrolysis voltage, electrolyte concentration, initial pH value and initial dye concentration on the decolorization rate during electroflocculation were studied. The electrodes and flocs were tested, the main decolorization mechanism of the electrocoagulation process was discussed, and the kinetic equation of the decolorization was established. The results show that the optimal process parameters include a voltage of 20 V, an initial pH value of 8, an electrolyte concentration of 0.80 g/L and an initial concentration of 60 mg/L, and the decolorization rate is high than 95% after electrolyzing for 80 min. The electrocoagulation process of polyester alcoholysis solution with an aluminum electrode conforms to the second-order kinetic model.

Preparation of visible-light-response TiO₂ photocatalyst by hydrothermal reduction

SHI Xiaoping, LI Yao, PAN Jiahao, WANG Ting, WU Liguang

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  105-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180902108

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Aiing at obtaining a visible-light-response photocatalyst with high contaminants removal in high-salinity wastewater, the surface modification for commercial titania (P25) photocatalyst were studied by hydrothermal reduction, and Ti³⁺ doped photocatalysts with visible light response were prepared. The influence of changing conditions in hydrothermal reduction on the photodegradation for methyl-orange in high-salinity wastewater using these catalysts was explored under irradiation of visible light. The results show that the hydrothermal reduction can not only remove some oxidized functional groups on the P25 surface, but also forms a heterojunction structure by reducing TiO₂ crystals to amorphous TiO₂. The introduction of Ti³⁺ into the catalyst by reducing Ti⁴⁺ in TiO₂ can expand the visible light response of the catalyst, thereby providing the catalytic activity excited by visible light. The activity of methyl orange of P25 modified by hydrothermal reduction using ethanol is the highest under the excitation of visible light, and the removal rate of 5 h for methyl-orange is up to 95%. In addition, the mild hydrothermal reduction process also ensures the catalyst stability, thus the removal rate of 5 h for methyl-orange exceeds 90% in the repeated photodegradation experiments.

Preparation of high-electrical conductivity polypyrrole-coated fabrics

HE Qingqing, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping, ZHANG Linping, ZHONG Yi, LÜ Jingchun

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  113-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908207

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In order to apply polypyrrole conductive materials in the textiles field, functional textile fabrics with excellent electrical conductivity and electrical stability were developed. The surface of cotton knitted fabric was modified by NaOH/urea system. Polypyrrole was deposited on the surface of the modified cotton knitted fabric by in-situ polymerization to prepare conductive fabrics. The influences of parameters such as concentration of pyrrole monomer, oxidant dosage, dopant concentration, dopant type, reaction temperature and reaction time on the electrical conductivity of fabrics were discussed. The suitable dopant was selected by comparing the electrical stability of fabric in air and water. The results show that the optimal process parameters are sodium 5-sulfosalicylate (with the concentration of 0.015 mol/L) as the dopant, the concentration of pyrrole of 0.3 mol/L, and the concentration of ferric chloride of 0.4 mol/L. When the polymerization reaction is carried out at 0 ℃ for 4 h, the surface sheet resistance of cotton knitted fabric after polypyrrole coating decreases to 1.4 Ω/□, and the electrical stability of the coated fabric in air is better than that in water.

Antibacterial durability and wearability of polyester/cotton fabric modified collaboratively by graphene oxide and TiO₂/SiO₂

GAO Jing, ZHANG Jun, ZHAO Zeyang, LI Wandi, WANG Jiajun, WANG Lu

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  120-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180907707

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In order to solve the low photocatalytic efficiency, weak antibacterial activity and poor endurability of polyester/cotton fabrics modified by TiO₂ under visible light, polyester/cotton fabrics were modified by the combination of graphene oxide(GO) and TiO₂/SiO₂. A field-emission microscope, antibacterial experiments in light and dark condition, color fastness of textiles, tensile fracture and flexural properties tests were adopted to analyze and evaluate micro-morphologies, antimicrobial properties and antibacterial durability, wearability of fabrics before and after the combined modification. The experimental results show that the nanoparticles dispersed uniformly and coated on the fabrics modified by GO and TiO₂/SiO₂ and the antibacterial rate of composite modified fabrics is over 99% under visible light. After 15 times of washing, the antibacterial rate of the composite modified fabrics is 98.5%. Meanwhile, the process has no significant negative effect on the tensile breaking properties, air permeability and hand feeling of the modified fabric.

Preparation of composite phase change microcapsules and its application on cotton fabrics

YANG Jian, ZHANG Guoqing, LIU Guojin, KE Xiaoming, ZHOU Lan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  127-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000907

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In order to obtain a heat storage temperature-regulating textile with low cost, high phase transformation and suitable phase transition temperature, stearic acid and lauric acid blended in different proportions were preferred as the phase change core material, and poly(styrene-butyl acrylate) was used as the wall material to prepare stearic acid-lauric acid/poly(styrene-butyl acrylate) phase change microcapsule by emulsion polymerization, and the stearic acid-lauric acid phase change microcapsules were treated on the cotton fabrics by padding process. The results show that the stearic acid-lauric acid with the mass ratio of 1∶9 is used as the phase change core material. The melting peak phase transition temperature is 42.12 ℃ and the latent heat of phase change is 187.80 J/g. The stearic acid-lauric acid/poly(styrene-butyl acrylate) phase change microcapsules prepared with the core/wall ratio of 1∶1 have good sphericity and the coverage rate is as high as 82.29%. The related melting peak phase transition temperature is 37.45 ℃, the latent heat of phase change is 77.27 J/g, and the initial decomposition temperature (150 ℃) is about 50 ℃ higher than the pure stearic acid-lauric acid phase change core material, having good thermal stability. After padding finishing, the peak phase transition temperature and the latent heat of phase change of the cotton fabric are 39.47 ℃ and 25.41 J/g, which has good heat storage and temperature regulation function.

Improvement of friction performance of polyester interlacement yarn linen-like fabric

WU Shufang, ZHANG Tingting, HASAN Md Rokibul, CHEN Yiren

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  134-140.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180605107

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To improve the poor friction performance of the polyester interlacement yarn linen-like fabric, the influence factors such as fiber, yarn, and fabric structure on the pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were analyzed, and a resin finishing process for improving the friction performance of the polyester interlacement yarn linen-like fabric was studied and developed. Process parameters such as the concentration of resin, the temperature of treatment bath, the baking temperature, the baking time, and the concentration of the softener were optimized, and the best finishing process of the polyester interlacement yarn linen-like fabric were the concentration of the resin of 50 g/L,the temperature of the treatment bath of 40℃, the baking temperature of 100℃ with baking time for 4 min and the softener concentration of 3 g/L. After the optinal finishing process with 40 000 rubbing cycles, the weight loss of the fabric was reduced from 12.13% to 5.34%. And the pilling performance was improved from grade 1 to grade 3-4 while the fabric basically keeps the original hand feeling.

Apparel Engineering

Influence of air gap size on steam protective performance of fireproof fabric

CHEN Si, LU Yehu

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  141-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181103106

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In order to investigate the influence of air gap between fabric layers and human skin on protective performance of protective clothing against steam, three different fabric systems were selected and four levels of air gap, i.e., 0 mm, 6 mm, 12 mm, and 18 mm, were designed. Time to 2^nd and 3^rd burn degree, total absorbed energy and heat flux were recorded and analyzed to evaluate the impact of air gap on the protective performance. The results show that thermal protection is different for different fabric assemblies. If the fabric thickness is bigger and moisture barrier is arranged more close to the steam hazard, the fabric system provides higher thermal protection. Further, a significant relationship exists between the thermal protection against steam and air gap size. If the air gap size is higher than 12 mm, thermal protective performance against steam exhibits a significant increase. The analysis of heat flux curve during exposure and cooling phase can facilitate the further understanding of the heat and moisture transfer mechanism.

Evaluation on radiation thermal performance of honeycomb sandwich structure of thermal protective clothing fabrics

ZHANG Hongyue, LI Xiaohui

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  147-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181102605

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In order to solve the bulky and sultry problem of current thermal protective clothing, a honeycomb structure for the heat insulation layer was designed, and the radiation thermal performance of the overall thermal protective clothing fabric was evaluated. In the experiment, the typical current thermal protection fabric was selected, the outer material, honeycomb core thickness, side length, wall thickness and other influencing factors were taken into account comprehensively. The 32 kinds of experimental schemes were designed by orthogonal experiment method, the sample was prepared by laser cutting technology, and the radiant protective performace(RPP) value was evaluated by the radiation thermal protection performance tester. The results show that the honeycomb sandwich structure can significantly reduce the weight of the insulation layer. The outer fabric for PBI^? matrix sample has better heat protective performance than Nomex^? IIIA sample. At the same time, according to the range analysis, the main factors affecting the radiative heat performance of honeycomb sandwich structure are the thickness of honeycomb core, the second is the wall thickness, and the least is the side length. The larger the core thickness, the smaller the side length, the larger the wall thickness, and the better the radiative heat protection performance of honeycomb sandwich.

Influence of body surface convex angle on waist section ease

YING Xin, CHENG Bilian, LIU Zheng, ZOU Fengyuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  152-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181100706

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In order to reveal the influence of the body surface convex angle on the waist section ease distribution, by wearing the same clothes with various ease on the standard body shape table, the data and characteristics of the clothing ease amount were collected and analyzed by a [TC]² 3-D body scanner and Geomagic software. By calculating the distance from the normal direction of the body surface point, the waist ease value was determined. Then the influence of chest convex angle and back slope angle on the amount of waist section ease under different ease was investigated. The results show that for tight clothing with the ease below 4 cm, the body surface convex angle is weakly related to the amount of waist ease. For the combined clothing with the ease of 6-12 cm, the chest convex angle at 120° region and the back slope angle at 0°-30° region have the greatest influence on the waist ease amount distribution. For loose clothing with the ease more than 16 cm, no correlation exists between the ease amount distribution and the chest convex angle, while a significant correlation exists between the back slope angle and the ease amount distribution. The fit goodness of the regression equation is well, and the R² value of 30° region and 120° region regression equation is above 0.95.

Design expression techniques and structural technology of origami art used in garment modeling

YU Linyan, ZHENG Shenghong

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  158-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181102806

Abstract ( 1055 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (4569KB) ( 450 )   Save

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In order to better apply origami art to garment fashion modeling and realize its unique three-dimensional expressiveness, the realization method of origami fashion modeling were expounded from two aspects of design expressive technique of origami design and structure technological technique of origami design. This paper summarized and expounded the concrete design manifestations of geometric structural design and implied bionic design in origami design performance techniques. By the application of modeling techniques of decorative origami, embedded origami, splicing combination origami, repetitive combination origami, partial ductile origami and integral origami, fusion of origami art and clothing modeling with structural rigidity and complexity can be realized so as to give full play to the unique plastic aesthetic feeling and artistic style of origami art.

Machinery & Accessories

Key control technology of breakpoint continuous weaving applied in modern warp knitting electronic jacquard control system

ZHANG Qi, LUO Cheng, QU Chaoqun, WEI Li, CHENG Qian, XIA Fenglin

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  164-170.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180906107

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Aiming at the problem of the modern warp knitting electronic jacquard control system using of the formation of power-off defective fabric due to the loss of weave position after restarting, which is caused by unexpected power failure in the operation state, the rotation period of the spindle was subjected to the jacquard motion angle zoning first, and then according to the spindle angle position information after power-on of the system, the jacquard offset information and yarn-laying code executed just at the breakpoint, the jacquard bias state and the traverse cam track completed before the breakpoint, the section data for the preloaded jacquard information and the remaining segment data of the traverse cam track after the breakpoint, were inversed, the inverse control algorithm of the jacquard system was designed and studied, and the algorithm was verified by the RJ6/2 warp knitting machine successfully. The results showed that the problem can be solved successfully by the key control algorithm of the jacquard control system, proving the inverse control algorithm is accurate and feasible.

Stability analysis of suture needle of prefabricated parts and improvement of inserting mechanism

DONG Jiuzhi, SONG Zongjian, CHEN Yunjun, JIANG Xiuming

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  171-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180504106

Abstract ( 518 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4734KB) ( 280 )   Save

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Aiming at the problem of easy occurrence of pressure bar destabilization of the long sewing needle during the sewing of the carbon cloth by orthogonal-crossed woven carbon cloth sewing device for the 70 mm-thick prefabricate, based on the analysis of the stability of the sewing needle, a mechanism was designed to increase the destabilization critical force. The mechanism is composed of a needle-holding cam, a needle-holding pole and a needle-holding block. The theoretical basis for the design is to reduce the cantilever length of the sewing needle by increasing the constraint point of the middle part of the needle by the needle-holding block, and to ensure the block always in the position where the destabilization critical force of the sewing needle is maximized by the limitation of the needle-holding cam, after the sewing needle penetrates into the carbon cloth. The contour of the cam is generated and optimized by MatLab according to the changing track of the position of the needle-holding block, which is determined according to the Euler formula. For verifying the feasibility of this improved single needle insertion mechanism, an insertion experiment of orthogonal-crossed woven carbon cloth was performed. The results showed that the principle is feasible and the working process is reliable.

Planning of trajectory and optimization of speed control of hand-made tufting machine

ZHOU Hu, LIU Tao, GAO Jinjie, ZHOU Qiang, LUO Binhong, YOU Zheng, SU Bingwang, BA La

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  177-182.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180903406

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In order to reduce the mechanical vibration caused by the change of the processing path of hand-made carpet flocking machine so as to reduce the deviation of the flocking path and the base cloth and achieve the high quality hand-made carpet processed at a higher working speed, a method for trajectory planning and speed optimization control of hand-made carpet flocking was proposed. Hand-made carpet flocking robot's mechanical and electrical system architecture was first analyzed, and the flocking motion of multi-axis linkage relationships was realized; on the basis, the influence of the motion path on the mechanical vibration and flocking precision was studied, and the speed adaptive control strategies according to the size of the inflection point corner was put forward, and finally a method for realizing the coordinated motion control of the multi-axis system by a cubic spline function trajectory planner was studied. The results show that the optimal control method can effectively suppress the mechanical vibration in the process, and the maximum deviation of the measured path decreases from 5.8 mm to 0.6 mm, which improves the flocking efficiency on the basis of guaranteeing the quality of the carpet surface.

Management & Information

Development mechanism of apparel products based on block chain technology

CAI Jianmei, ZHU Huan

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  183-190.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181006808

Abstract ( 807 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1890KB) ( 263 )   Save

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Aiming at the problems of pseudo-consumer-centered theory, data islands of market research and design copyright faced by apparel product development at the present, this paper proposed block chain technology design to construct the technical framework of apparel product development so as to stimulate the apparel industry and create a more efficient, intelligent and dynamic product development long-term working system. Literature research, classification analysis, comparative analysis and other methods were used, first focused on the existing problems in the development of apparel products, then elaborated on the principle and characteristics of block chain technology, and analyzed the feasibility of its application in the garment product development process from three dimensions: the user, function and value; and the new apparel product development process was conceived on the basis of feasibility verification. It is concluded that block chain technology has great advantages in apparel product development with its characteristics of decentralization and disclosed information. It helps to improve data islands, protect design copyright, and establish a long-term mechanism of consumer-centered, efficient and intelligent product development. It has far-reaching significance for promoting the overall healthy development of China's apparel industry.

Garment grain balance evaluation system based on deep learning

XU Qian, CHEN Minzhi

Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(10):  191-195.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181006705

Abstract ( 564 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (2682KB) ( 156 )   Save

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In order to solve the problem on automatic evaluation of the garment grain balance in virtual fitting, the paper proposed a method based on the superiority of deep learning in automatic image recognition, created the topological structure of convolutional neural network according to the characteristics of garment grain balance, and by the grade classification training and learning training of the garment grain plaques with different balance states, the recognition accuracy of the neural network model of the training reached 93.589%, thus an automatic evaluation system was established for the grain worm balance of all key parts of the garment. The results show that the application of the garment grain balance evaluation system based on deep learning can identify and classify the garment grain plaques in each key part of the garment in the virtual environment, which can shorten the time of balance detection and improve the detection efficiency. The unbalanced position of the garment grain can be quickly acquired to facilitate the modification of the garment.