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Table of Content

    15 November 2019, Volume 40 Issue 11
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and properties of polyamide 66/amino-functionalized multi-walled carbon nanotubes fibers
      ZHANG Jiao, GAO Xuefeng, WANG Yuzhou, LIU Haihui, ZHANG Xingxiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181004508
      Abstract ( 532 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1090KB) ( 238 )   Save
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      In order to improve the mechanical properties of polyamide 66 (PA66) fiber, carboxylated multi-walled carbon nanotubes (CMWNTs) were condensed with ethylenediamine (EA) to obtain amino-functionalized multi-walled carbon nanotubes (AMWNTs), and AMWNTs doped PA66 composites (PACNTs) were prepared by in-situ polymerizing AMWNTs with polyamide 66 salt. Furthermore, the composites were melt-spun into fibers. The fibers were characterized using thermogravimetry, differential scanning calorimeter, X-ray diffraction and single fiber strength tester. The results show that, the melting temperature of the PACNTs fiber moves toward the low temperature direction as the content of AMWNTs increases, the addition of AMWNTs lowers the molecular weight of PA66, and the crystallization temperature of the PACNTs fiber moves toward the high temperature direction as a result of AMWNTs acting as a heterogeneous nucleation agent. The tensile strength and elastic modulus of the PACNTs fiber increase with increasing the content of AMWNTs. The tensile strength and elastic modulus of PACNTs fiber reach the maximum when the mass fraction of AMWNTs is 0.5%, which increase by approximately 157% and 455% as compared with those of PA66, respectively.

      Influence of heat treatment on structure and properties of thermotropic liquid crystalline polyarylate fiber
      YANG Fan, LIU Junhua, BIAN Angting, WANG Yanping, QIAN Qiyuan, NI Jianhua, XIA Yumin, HE Yong, WANG Yimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  9-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181102705
      Abstract ( 615 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1287KB) ( 123 )   Save
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      In view of the unstable structure and low strength of thermotropic liquid crystalline polyarylate (TLCPAR) as-spun fiber, the heat treatment was carried out to increase the molecular weight and therefore improve the strength of the fiber. The TLCPAR as-spun fiber with relaxed state was treated under the conditions of different heat treatment temperatures and time in nitrogen gas flow. The wide angle X-ray diffraction was adopted to analyze the crystallinity, crystalline size and orientation and the mechanical properties were tested by yarn strength tester. The results show that after heat treatment, the crystalline size of the (110) and (211) planes of the TLCPAR fiber has a significant increase. After being subjected to the heat treatment of 230 ℃ for 48 h, the crystallinity of the fiber increases by 37.1%, and the crystalline orientation decreases only 2%. It is shown that the molecular chains are stacked more orderly and closely after heat treatment. The change in structure of TLCPAR fiber results in an increase of 86.8% in strength and 20.9% in elastic modulus.

      Structure and properties of several differentiated polyester fibers
      WEI Yanhong, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping, SU Xuzhong, JI Yijun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  13-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180805107
      Abstract ( 2572 )   HTML ( 49 )   PDF (6288KB) ( 624 )   Save
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      In order to better understand the structure and properties of novel differentiated polyester fiber and provide a reference for subsequent product development. The structures and performances of polyester(PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate(PTT), low viscosity PET and high shrinkage PET cornposite filament(SPH) and PET/PTT composite elastic fiber(T400) were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffractometer, three-dimensional digital microscope, thermogravimetry, etc. The results show that the surface of SPH and T400 fiber have grooves, which can produce capillary effect. After stretching or heat treatment, the SPH fiber can be self-crimped. T400 fiber has large crimp shrinkage, high breaking strength and good elastic recovery. PET has high breaking strength, and can be used as a silk product. The molecular structure of PTT has a unique odd carbon effect, which enables the fiber to have higher resilience and elastic recovery.

      Diameter prediction of melt-blown fiber based on non-Newtonian fluid constitutive equations
      SUN Guangwu, LI Jiecong, XIN Sanfa, WANG Xinhou
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  20-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180802806
      Abstract ( 556 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (982KB) ( 191 )   Save
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      For accurately predicting the final diameter of fiber and revealing the mechanism of fiber formation, four types of non-Newtonian fluid constitutive equations, PTT, UCM, Giesekus and Rouse-Zimm, were introduced on the basis of Lagrange method and bead-chain model. The stress and resulting diameter of fiber in the air jet were predicted, respectively. The results indicate that: the viscoelastic forces calculated by different non-Newtonian fluid constitutive equations are different, thus the predicted results are different. Final diameter of fiber is affected by the difference between internal and external stress and the position of freezing point. Larger difference between internal and external stress generates faster decay rate of diameter. Fiber would have enough space to be drawn if the freezing point of fiber appears far away from the orifice. The fiber calculated by UCM fluid constitutive equation is the thickest, while the fiber predicted by Giesekus equation is the finest. The predicted results from Giesekus fluid constitutive equation show good agreement with the experimental results.

      Preparation and properties of polyamide-based magnetic fibers
      LI Changling, WANG Wencong, HUA Dong, ZHOU Jianping, KAN Jianxing, WANG Hongbo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  26-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180907307
      Abstract ( 419 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (5847KB) ( 162 )   Save
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      In order to meet the market demand for health-care textiles, polyamide-based magnetic fibers were successfully prepared by adding magnetic materials into polyamide spinning melt. The Fourier transform infrared spectrometry, X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray energy dispersive spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, and tensile strength tester were carried out to analyze the chemical structure, crystal structure, morphology and various properties of the magnetic fibers. The results show that the ferrite magnetic powders are uniformly dispersed in nylon-based magnetic fibers; the magnetic powder content does not have much influence on the melting point of the nylon fiber; the breaking strength decreases with the increase of the magnetic powder content, but even if the magnetic powder content is up to 25%, the strength of the fiber is still 2.50 cN/dtex, which can meet the weaving requirements; and three different sizes of knitted fabrics were woven with nylon-based magnetic fibers, the three kinds of fabric have a magnetic flux density between 0.02 mT and 0.1 mT, and the magnetic flux density of the fabric increases with the content of the magnetic powder.

      Optimization design and preparation of nanofiber membrane based flexible pressure sensor
      WANG Jie, ZHOU Mingwei, WANG Bin, LI Xiuyan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  32-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181103806
      Abstract ( 549 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2682KB) ( 261 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a flexible pressure sensor with high sensitivity, simple preparation process, light weight and air permeability, thermoplastic elastomer polyurethane (TPU) electrospun nanofiber membrane was used as a substrate and a dielectric layer and carbon nanotube conductive ink was used as an electrode coating to prepare a sandwich-structured nanofiber membrane-based flexible pressure sensor by ultrasonic welding. The relationship between pressure sensing properties and nanofiber membrane thickness and microstructure was studied. The results show that with the increasing of spinning time, the thickness and the tensile stress of the nanofiber membrane increase, while the elongation at break decreases. In the pressure range of 9.8-49 000 Pa, the sensitivity of the device decreases with the increase of the spinning time. When the spinning time is 1 h, the sensitivity of the device is up to 4.97 kPa-1. The nanofiber membrane-based flexible pressure sensor has the characteristics of high sensitivity and wide response range.

      Textile Engineering
      Spinning and performance comparison of line flax/polyester multifilament composite yarns
      AO Limin, TANG Wen, JIANG Yinling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  38-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180804207
      Abstract ( 557 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2591KB) ( 124 )   Save
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      In order to compare the performances of line flax/polyester multifilament composite yarns by different composite processing methods, the spinning process parameters were designed by modifying existing spinning equipment, and 5 composite yarns with the same twist were spun. The appearance characteristics, tensile properties and hairiness of composite yarns were compared and analyzed. The results show that the composite yarns by different spinning methods are all of obvious characteristics of uneven distribution of twist; the wrapped composite yarns have better covering effect than the composite yarns of twisted structure; compared with the breaking strength, composite processing has better improve effect on the minimum strength of the line flax yarn, and can significantly reduce the strength unevenness; all the composite yarns can be woven without sizing except the wrapped yarn of same twist direction; and the double-twist and Sirofil composite processed are effective in improving the breaking elongation rate of the yarn, and the effect of wrapping composite to reduce the hairiness of the line flax yarn is the best.

      Local fabric texture stability characterization using general dictionary
      WU Ying, ZHAN Zhu, WANG Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181100806
      Abstract ( 361 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (8207KB) ( 113 )   Save
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      In order to improve the effect of fixed dictionary on fabric texture, a method for characterizing fabric texture based on general dictionary was proposed. Firstly, the dictionary learning method was preferred. Secondly, eight kinds of arbitrary normal fabric samples and 20 samples with different weave patterns were selected respectively, and then a general dictionary, a general dictionary of four organizational structures and a general dictionary of joint organizational structure were obtained by the preferred dictionary learning method. Finally, the validity of the general dictionary was verified by experiments. The results show that the common general dictionary can adapt to the fabric texture better than the fixed dictionary. On this basis, the performance of three general dictionaries was compared. The test results show that compared with fixed dictionaries, general dictionaries can better characterize fabric texture under the same experiment conditions; and different types of general dictionaries can have better universality or specificity.

      Objective smoothness evaluation of fabric based on Fourier spectral features
      SHI Kangjun, WANG Jing'an, GAO Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  50-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104307
      Abstract ( 380 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (4865KB) ( 158 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems that the manual evaluation of fabric smoothness is subjective and the existing objective evaluation has low accuracy, a fabric smoothness evaluation method based on Fourier transform, spectral feature extraction and support vector machine was proposed. Firstly, the images of the standard replicas and fabric samples were acquired; the obtained images were preprocessed and transformed to the Fourier frequency domain; and a set of low-pass filters were constructed in the frequency domain, and the frequency interval of the wrinkle information in the spectrogram was determined by frequency domain filtering and inverse Fourier transformation, which is called the wrinkle contribution interval. The wrinkle contribution interval was divided into several feature subintervals, and the spectral amplitude in each interval was integrated, which is constructed into the feature vector. The feature vector set was constructed by the feature vectors of all training samples, and utilized to train the support vector machine, which can objectively evaluate the fabric smoothness. The total number of the adopted fabric samples is 132, among which 24 and standard template images are taken as the training set, and the rest are taken as the test set. The results show that the algorithm performs well on fabric smoothness evaluation, and the evaluation accuracy rate is up to 96.30%.

      Parametric three-dimensional modeling on through-thickness orthogonal woven fabric structure
      WANG Xu, DU Zengfeng, WANG Cuie, NI Qingqing, LIU Xinhua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  57-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180609007
      Abstract ( 603 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3421KB) ( 194 )   Save
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      In order to accelerate the three-dimensional modeling process of through-thickness orthogonal woven fabric structure, based on the interweaving rule, four independent parameters, including the number of weft layers, the weft diameter, the ground-warp diameter, and the binder-warp diameter, were utilized to establish the geometric relationships and three-dimensional models of the structure unit of through-thickness orthogonal woven fabric. According to the independent parameters, the calculation method of the axial spacing between layers of weft and ground-warp, the distance between weft in the same layer and the axis of the warp in the same layer, the distance between binder-warp in the weft direction, and the width, length and height of the structure unit were given under the ideal state. Using the 3ds Max software's Maxscript scripting language programming method, by inputting yarn diameters and layers of weft yarns, the SplineShape class objects were constructed from data point coordinates of yarns, and the weft layer, the ground-warp layer and the binder-warp were constructed, respectively, thereby realizing parametric three-dimensional modeling of this kind of woven fabric.

      Shape analysis of biaxial stretching coil of weft plain knitted cotton fabric
      WEI Tengxiang, LI Min, PENG Hongyun, FU Shaohai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  64-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181102906
      Abstract ( 405 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (4022KB) ( 75 )   Save
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      In view of the problem that the coil is deformed easily in the process of smooth mercerization, the weft plain knitted cotton fabric before mercerizing was stretched bilaterally, the shape changes of coils under different tensile conditions were studied. The fabric was divided into different units by a grid method, and the change rule of the displacement vector, coil spacing, coil height, shape coefficient and shear angle of different elements under biaxial stretching were studied. The results show that the less deformed region of fabric is elliptical, and with the tensile tension increases, ellipse area reduces, and the coil spacing and the coil height obey the trend of the parabola; the coil shape coefficient has a periodic gradient distribution, the maximum shear angle of the fabric decreases, and all the shear angles decrease slowly.

      Three-dimensional modeling and analysis of knitted fabric based on hexagonal mesh structure
      YANG Enhui, QIU Hua, DAI Wenjie
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  69-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181106706
      Abstract ( 597 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (4772KB) ( 327 )   Save
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      In order to create a 3-D geometric model close to the real loop of knitted fabric more conveniently, a method based on hexagonal mesh structure theory was proposed. A hexagonal mesh structure was constructed according to the interleaving points formed when knitting loops were interlaced, and eight special value points were determined for each loop unit. Then the specific coordinates of the type value points were acquired according to the yarn fineness and fabric thickness by a trigonometric function relation, and the type value points were inserted into the non-uniform rational B-spline curve. The inverse algorithm was adopted to calculate the control point and the final yarn path was confirmed, and a single yarn loop was formed by section scanning. The fabric 3-D model of specific structure circulation was obtained by sequentially repeatedly arranging by an array method. The finite element heat conduction analysis of the element model was then carried out. The results show that the error between the simulation result and the actual measurement value is less than 4%, the model is practical and reasonable.

      Composition analysis and stripping process of waste wool/silk/cotton blended fabric
      TU Li, MENG Jiaguang, LI Xin, LI Juanzi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  75-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180800907
      Abstract ( 403 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3252KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      In order to improve the utilization rate of waste textiles and reduce the influence of dyes on recycling methods and processes, the compositions of waste blended fabrics were analyzed. The fabric was stripped by an hydrogen peroxide/citric acid system. The stripping process was optimized by a single factor method. The influences of hydrogen peroxide mass concentration, citric acid mass concentration, sodium silicate mass concentration, JFC mass concentration, pH value, temperature, time and other parameters on the whiteness and breaking strength of the fabric were discussed. The results show that the waste blended fabric consists of wool, silk and cotton, and the blending ratio of cotton to silk to wool is 75/20/5. The optimum stripping process is hydrogen peroxide mass concentration of 10 g/L, citric acid mass concentration of 2 g/L, pH value of 6, temperature of 80 ℃, time of 80 min, sodium silicate mass concentration of 1.2 g/L, JFC mass concentration of 2 g/L, and bath ratio of 1∶40. Under the conditions of optimal stripping process, the whiteness of waste wool/silk/cotton blended fabric is 54.27%, and the breaking strength is 410.17 cN.

      Internal defect detection method for thin test pieces of woven laminated composites based on ultrasonic phased array
      XIAO Zhitao, GUO Yongmin, GENG Lei, WU Jun, ZHANG Fang, WANG Wen, LIU Yanbei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  81-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180607507
      Abstract ( 356 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (12743KB) ( 159 )   Save
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      As defects may exist in the test pieces of woven laminated composites, the method of ultrasonic array test is used to carry out 100% ultrasonic scanning of woven laminated composite and the defect areas obtained by ultrasonic positioning were analyzed. The corresponding relation of the ultrasonic echo A flicking waveform, B and C scan images and the internal defects distribution of woven laminated composites were researched. The results of ultrasonic testing for the composite inspiring 4,8,16 elements at the same time and the scanning ultrasonic testing results for the thin braided composites in the horizontal and vertical direction under the optimal condition were compared. A simple quantitative analysis of C scan image of the defects was conducted. Experimental results show that there is a one-to-one corresponding relationship on the defect display of woven laminated composites between the ultrasonic A scan echo, B and C scan images. The ultrasonic phased array detection method can be used to evaluate the nondestructive testing and defects of woven laminated composites.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Ammonium oxalate-enzyme combining degumming process of hemp fiber
      ZHENG Zhenrong, ZHI Wei, XING Jiangyuan, DU Huanfu, XU Zijian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  88-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181002206
      Abstract ( 337 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1777KB) ( 150 )   Save
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      In order to develop a green and efficient hemp degumming process, a combining degumming process using ammonium oxalate and enzyme was proposed. The ammonium oxalate degumming process was optimized using the orthogonal test, and the degumming effect of hemp fiber treated by ammonium oxalate-enzyme method was compared with that of hemp fiber treated by the traditional chemical method and that of hemp fiber treated by the chemical-enzyme method. Results show that the optimum conditions of ammonium oxalate-enzyme combining degumming method are the concentration of ammonium oxalate is 4.0 g/L, holding temperature is 100 ℃ and holding time is 50 min; The residual gel rate of hemp fiber treated by the best technology of ammonium oxalate-enzyme combining degumming process is 2.34%, which is lower than that of hemp fiber treated by the traditional chemical combining degummin process (12.88%) and that of hemp fiber treated by the chemical-enzyme combining degumming process (8.43%); After being treated by the optimal process of ammonium oxalate-enzyme combining degumming process, the lignin content of hemp fiber decrease from 8.10% (marijuana) to 0.94%, the breaking strength of hemp fiber is 10.31 cN/dtex, and the whiteness of hemp fiber is superior to that of hemp fiber treated by the traditional chemical degumming process and that of hemp fiber treated by the chemical-enzyme combining degumming process.

      Influence of knitted deformation on dyeing in flat pad dyeing
      WANG Qiuping, MAO Zhiping, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong, ZHANG Linping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  94-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181003006
      Abstract ( 327 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (978KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      In view of the challenge in the pad-dyeing of open width knitted fabric, which leads to unleveled dyeing and crease formation caused by varying tension during the dyeing operation, reactive dyes of various chemical structures were adopted to pad-dye cotton knitted fabric, and the influence of the dye structure on the dyeing performance of the cotton knitted fabric under different tensile deformation conditions after fixation was investigated by means of variance analysis. The results showed that when the pad-dye cotton knitted fabric are subjected to open width pad-dyeing with reactive red of different active groups, and prebaked and fixed by steaming under the transverse or longitudinal tensioning condition, the tension has small influence on the dyeing and the level dyeing of the knitted fabric; and the difference in the dye structures causes different absorption and fixation of the cotton knitted fabric to dyes, thus, different dyes have difference in the pad-dyeing lifting power to the same knitted fabric. When dyeing in light colors, pad-dyeing can save more dye, especially for reactive red WBRH (KN type), the color depth of pad-dyeing is significantly higher than that of dip dyeing. The dyeing performance and levelness were not affected and the washing color fastness were greater than or equal to 4 grades.

      Diazotization-coupling dyeing and process control of silk fabrics by primary aryl amine dyes
      JIANG Hua, ZHANG Zhiheng, CAI Jinfang, CHEN Weiguo, CUI Zhihua, SUN Yanfeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  100-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104407
      Abstract ( 465 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1063KB) ( 202 )   Save
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      In order to improve the fastness property of dyed silk fabrics, primary aryl amine dyes were selected for dyeing silk fabrics by a diazotization-coupling dyeing process. The dyeing conditions, such as dyeing temperature, pH value and concentration of sodium sulfate were optimized and the mechanism of color change before and after dyeing was discussed. The application scope of dyes was explored. The results showed that the K/S values of dyed fabrics are greatly increased when primary aryl amine dyes and silk fabrics are heated in one bath followed by diazotization of dyes and coupling with silk at low temperature. The reason for color change of dyed silk fabrics originates from the change of dye molecular conjugation leading to the variation of chromophore's band gap. Aniline, naphthylamine and 1-aminoanthraquinone dyes can be applied in this reactive dyeing method. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed silk fabrics could reach above grade 4.

      Preparation and properties of layer-by-layer self-assembled flame retardant modified polyester fabrics
      WANG Fanghe, WANG Rui, WEI Lifei, WANG Zhaoying, ZHANG Anying, WANG Deyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  106-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181100107
      Abstract ( 406 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1465KB) ( 263 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of droplet of flame retardant polyester fabrics, ionic monomers acrylic acid (AA) were grafted on the surface of flame-retardant polyester fabric in the presence of 1-hydroxycyclohexyl benzophenone as photoinitiator under the irradiation of ultraviolet light (UV). After that, γ-Aminopropyl triethoxysilane (KH-550) and sulfobutyl ether-β-cyclodextrin (SBE-β-CD) were designed as an anti-droplet system and flame retardant anti-drop polyester fabric was fabricated by layer-by-layer self-assembly on the grafted fabric surface. The morphologies, thermal properties and combustion properties of the fabrics before and after self-assembly were characterized. The results showed when the initiator mass fraction is 4%, the AA mass fraction is 12%, and the UV irradiation time is 10 min, the grafting rate of the flame retardant polyester is better, which is 5.08%. But the limiting oxygen index (LOI) decreases with the increase of grafting rate. The LOI of modified polyester fabric is 28% and the char residue increase when the number of assembled layers is 12. The vertical combustion test has no droplets, and the combustion performance of polyester fabrics are significantly improved.

      Properties of functionalized composite polyester fabric prepared from silver nanowires of high aspect ratio
      ZHU Jinming, QIAN Jianhua, SUN Liying, LI Zhengping, PENG Huimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  113-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181003206
      Abstract ( 449 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (5030KB) ( 178 )   Save
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      In order to prepare a functional composite polyester fabric, oxygen plasma-modified treatment and hot pressing processing were firstly adopted to increase the wettability of the polyester(PET), then the silver nanowires(AgNWs) were dispersed into anhydrous ethanol and the PET fabric was treated with the AgNWs ethanol colloid by a dip-drying process. The AgNWs/PET fabrics were treated by hot pressing process to improve the adsorption fastness of AgNWs. The influence of different concentrations of the colloid on the properties of AgNWs/PET was investigated. With the concentration of the colloid increases from 1 mg/mL to 4 mg/mL, the square resistance of the AgNWs/PET reduces from 25.38 Ω/? to 2.51 Ω/?, but the washing resistance is poor. The electrical conductivity of the AgNWs/ PET which was modified by oxygen plasma is improved after hot-pressing. In addition, after 50 times of washing, the square resistance is increased only by 24.89% , from 0.67 Ω/? to 0.83Ω/?, but the washing resistance is greatly improved.

      Preparation of oxidized chitosan/sericin composite and its functional finish on cotton fabrics
      WANG Hao, DU Zhaofang, XU Yunhui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  119-124.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180807107
      Abstract ( 540 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1301KB) ( 206 )   Save
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      In order to develop high quality cotton product, the oxidized chitosan/sericin composite was prepared by covalent binding of oxidized chitosan and sericin, and then applied to functional finish of cotton fabrics. The influences of various factors on the weighting percentage of cotton fabrics were analyzed and the optimized process parameters were obtained. The composite and its finished cotton fabrics were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope analysis. The results show that the active aldehyde group is introduced into chitosan after chitosan is oxidized with sodium periodate, subsequently the oxidized chitosan is subjected to a Schiff base reaction with sericin to prepare the composite finishing agent. When the composite is applied to the finishing of cotton fabrics, it can be chemically bonded to cotton fibers and cross-linked to form the thin film on the surface. With the increase of the oxidation degree of chitosan, the sericin loss rate of the composite decreases significantly. The breaking strength and moisture absorption of the modified cotton fabrics with oxidized chitosan/sericin composite show little change, whereas the properties of the wrinkle recovery, ultraviolet resistance and bacterial resistance of the modified fabrics are significantly improved. The weighting percentage of the cotton fabrics is stabilized at about 4% after 3 washing cycles, indicating that modified cotton fabrics have good washing fastness.

      Preparation and antistatic property of graphene oxide grafted polypropylene nonwoven fabric
      MIAO Miao, WANG Xiaoxu, WANG Ying, LÜ Lihua, WEI Chunyan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  125-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180707306
      Abstract ( 398 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1947KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to improve the antistatic property of polypropylene nonwoven fabric, the process parameters of grafting graphene oxide on polypropylene nonwoven fabric were optimized by response surface methodology with graphene oxide as grafting monomer and glacial acetic acid as catalyst. The influences of graphene oxide concentration, catalyst concentration and grafting temperature on the grafting rate were investigated. Fabric friction electrostatic tester, surface tension tester, scanning electron microscope and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy were adopted to test and characterize the nonwoven fabric. The optimal process parameters are: graphene oxide concentration of 17.06 g/L, glacial acetic acid concentration of 0.031 mol/L and temperature of 70.60 ℃, at this time the graft ratio is 22.3%. The results show that the friction voltage of polypropylene nonwoven fabric after grafting is 1 094 V, and compared with the original fabric, the contact angle of polypropylene nonwoven fabric after grafting is 76.9°. The grafted nonwoven fabric is rougher than the original fabric and obviously adhered with a layer of material; and the grafted nonwoven fabric shows new peaks at 1 621, 1 385 and 1 117 cm-1, proving the existence of graphene oxide.

      Degradation kinetics and mechanism of Acid Red 37 under attack of sulfate radicals
      ZHUANG Shuai, YANG Hai, AN Jibin, HU Qian, ZHANG Hao, HE Guitian, YI Bing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  131-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000409
      Abstract ( 476 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1961KB) ( 196 )   Save
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      In order to explore the degradation possibility of Acid Red 37 (AR37) under the attack of sulfate radicals, the system of UVC-activated potassium persulfate (PDS) was obtained in mixed solution of acetonitrile (ACN) and water. Firstly, the degradation feasibility of AR37 in different solutions, such as dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), N-N-dimethylformamide (DMF), ACN and water, was compared. And then the influences of the dosage of PDS, the concentration of substrate, the reaction temperature and the UVC light intensity on the degradation kinetics of AR37 were studied in the system of UVC/PDS/(90%ACN+10%H2O). Lastly, the degradation intermediates of AR37 were identified by HPLC/MS/MS and the transformation mechanism was proposed. The results indicated that AR37 can be degraded in the system of UVC/PDS/(90%ACN+10%H2O). The removal efficiency of AR37 is more than 98% and the pseudo-first-order rate is 0.123 min-1. Higher temperature and light intensity facilitate producing the sulfate free radical, which is helpful for the degradation of AR37; and the sulfate free radical plays an important role in the degradation of AR37 in the system of UVC/PDS/(90%ACN+10%H2O). Based on the degradation intermediates, the degradation pathway is deduced, such as the cleavage of azo bond and the desulfonation due to single electron transfer of the sulfate free radical, as well as hydroxylation products from hydrogen-abstracted and substitution reaction.

      Apparel Engineering
      Hole structure optimization and evaluation of thermal barrier for firefighter protective clothing
      HU Beibei, DU Feifei, LI Xiaohui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  140-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181103505
      Abstract ( 388 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1648KB) ( 160 )   Save
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      In order to improve the thermal protective performance of honeycomb fabric for firefighter protective clothing, the honeycomb hole structure optimization and evaluation were carried out for the thermal barrier. The current typical fabrics of firefighter protective clothing were chosen as the experimental samples. Considering thermal liner layering, honeycomb side length and wall thickness, six kinds of hole sizes were designed for the straight holes and the inclined holes respectively, and a solid control group was presented. Then 13 sets of experimental schemes were prepared by laser cutting technology and a thermal protective performance tester was adopted to perform the flash fire test. The experimental results show that honeycomb layering reorganization effectively improves the thermal protective performance of honeycomb fabric systems for firefighter protective clothing. By the non-parametric correlation sample test, a significant difference exists in the thermal protective performance of the honeycomb sandwich structure with different opening methods, and the inclined hole structure has better thermal protective performance than the straight hole.

      Influence of air gap on thermal and moisture properties of permeable protective clothing
      HU Ziting, ZHENG Xiaohui, FENG Mingming, WANG Yingjian, LIU Li, DING Songtao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  145-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181002707
      Abstract ( 686 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (3515KB) ( 249 )   Save
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      In order to find the suitable clothing ease to improve thermal and moisture comfort of permeable nuclear biological and chemical (NBC) protective clothing, the wearing experimental procedure was designed. 5 pieces of clothing were observed under a normal temperature and static condition. Thermal manikin and three-dimensional scanning technology were used in a climate chamber to explore the influence of air gap on thermal and vapor resistance of NBC protective clothing. The results showed that with the increase of the ease of NBC protective clothing, the volume of air gap under the garment changes similarly with the average thickness of the air gap, and the air gap has a significant impact on total thermal resistance and vapor resistance. The total thermal resistance of the clothing increases with the increase of the air gap, and when the air gap exceeds by a certain volume, the thermal resistance of the clothing starts to drop. The total vapor resistance increases with the increase of air gap under the clothing.

      Correlation between change of shoulders' structure and armhole angle in lady's wear
      LI Yang, SHEN Hong, WU Jing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  151-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181001804
      Abstract ( 699 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2070KB) ( 261 )   Save
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      In order to provide theoretical basis for the design of shoulder structure, explore the relationship between the shoulder structure and the armhole structure in lady's wear and establish a theoretical research model a three-dimensional cutting method was adopted, and different thickness of shoulder pads were adopted to change the shoulder slope to thereby change the shoulders' structure. By the three-dimensional to two-dimensional transformation, the shoulder slope and the angle of the armhole were accurately measured on the flat developing drawings of the garment pieces, and the data correlation was analyzed. By making ready-to-wear garments, the conventional proportional method was compared with the method using the experimental results. It is concluded that a linear correlation exists between the shoulder pad thickness and the shoulder slope; the change of the shoulders' structure in lady's wear affects the angle of the armhole, and the shoulder slope is linearly related to the angle of the armhole. The results showed that by adopting the linear correlation into the design of structure of lady's wear, the ready-to-wear garments are fitter than those by the conventional proportional method.

      Design of garment geometric space based on changes of human body surface
      LIU Tong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  155-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181200806
      Abstract ( 593 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3172KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      In order to broaden the innovative thinking of women's clothing design in space modeling, the change of clothing space was taken as an entry point and examples were combined to decompose the body surface with the geometric structure clothing of a specific shape and find the structural connection between the two in the relationship between plane and three-dimensional space. The concept of geometric space design of clothing was proposed. According to the results of style modeling and structure analysis, through the different changes in the composition elements in the geometric plane pattern, the secondary composition of the clothing space was formed, and the design rules of the human body and clothing in the formation of different spatial relationships were studied. Three kinds of geometric space design methods were summarized, and the three-dimensional composition was combined with the planar pattern technology to meet the personalized needs of clothing through the application of specific styles.

      Management & Information
      Influence of structure parameter of auxiliary nozzle in air-jet loom on characteristics of flow field
      LI Sihu, SHEN Min, BAI Cong, CHEN Liang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  161-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181103007
      Abstract ( 448 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (3500KB) ( 211 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the energy consumption of the auxiliary nozzle, enhance the bundling of the air jet and improve the production efficiency and fabric quality, the influences of structural parameters of the auxiliary nozzle and the supply pressure on the characteristics of flow field were studied. The numerical simulation of three-dimensional flow field model were carried by fluid dynamics software Fluent. Three typical auxiliary nozzle structures under different gas supply pressures were investigated, such as the single circular hole, regular triangular hole and star hole. The velocity contours of the symmetry planes, the central axis speed, the air consumption and the weft insertion stability were acquired under the air supply pressure of 0.2 MPa to 0.4 MPa. The numerical results of the central line velocity and the radial velocity of the single circular hole were verified by experiment. Comparisons between these two results indicate that the overall trend of speed change is consistent with the experimental results. On this basis, the influence of different orifice type auxiliary nozzles on the flow field was explored. The results showed that when the air supply pressure is same, the star-hole auxiliary nozzle has better airflow bundling, better weft insertion stability and less air consumption.

      Optimization of process parameters for 3D additive screen printing based on genetic algorithm and neural network
      WANG Xiaohui, LIU Yuegang, MENG Zhuo, SUN Yize
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  168-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180604807
      Abstract ( 475 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1961KB) ( 213 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the combination of parameters such as blade pressure, squeegee speed, blade angle and ink viscosity in the 3D additive printing process has a great influence on the printing quality, but the combination of various process parameters in actual production cannot be optimal, the BP neural network improved by the additional momentum method was adopted to construct a 3D additive printing process model. The model was trained by the experimental parameters to determine the nonlinear relationship between process parameters and printing quality. The genetic algorithm was adopted to optimize the nonlinear function to achieve the optimal parameter combination of the 3D additive printing process: printing pressure of 4 800 N, squeezing angle of 18 degrees, squeezing speed of 400 mm/s and ink viscosity of 170.5 Pa·s, The model prediction error is basically stable within the range of 0.01. The comparison experiments were carried out using the parameters before and after optimization. The experimental results show that the algorithm can realize the quality prediction and parameter optimization of 3D additive printing process, thereby improving the printing quality and shortening the product development time.

      Prediction model and analysis of foot-ground reaction force based on pressure insole
      WANG Hongcheng, LANG Runnan, WANG Fangfang, XU Fengyu, SHEN Jingjin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  175-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104507
      Abstract ( 481 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2895KB) ( 150 )   Save
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      In order to facilitate the doctor to remotely monitor the foot-ground reaction of the patient in daily life, an insole type foot pressure measurement system was designed. In the dynamic measurement of the plantar pressure, the analog signal of the pressure sensor is amplified, filtered and digital-analog converted, sent to the SQL database through the Zigbee wireless module, and the remote reading of the plantar pressure is realized by using the LabVIEW post-processing program. Based on the plantar pressure data, a multivariate linear regression model was used to establish a multivariate linear regression model of the foot-to-ground reaction. It was found that the FSR402 sensor has a high precision when measuring the pressure below 10 N, and the accuracy is significantly reduced when the pressure reaches 10 N and above. The insole pressure measurement system uses 0.248 8% and 0.731 8% of the error between the measured and predicted values measured by two comparison experiments, which is within the acceptable error range for engineering applications, the resulting error and the cause of negative predictive power is the accuracy of the sensor and the viscoelasticity between the foot and the insole.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress on flatness of garment sewing
      XIAO Ping, QIAN Bodan, LU Hong, ZHANG Xianghui, ZHANG Yuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(11):  182-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181201407
      Abstract ( 572 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1025KB) ( 265 )   Save
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      In order to effectively evaluate the quality of sewing flatness of garments, the domestic and foreign clothing appearance evaluation standards and related research were sorted out. From two aspects of fabric performance and sewing conditions, the influence factors of flatness were summerized, and the evaluation methods of sewing flatness were discussed by subjective evaluation and objective evaluation.The influence of the sewing process factors on the flatness was comprehensively analyzed from a multi-factorial perspective. It is necessary to improve the accuracy of the mathematical model between the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric and the sewing wrinkle level of the fabric, improve the flatness prediction model based on the physical properties of the fabric, and seek the study of the flatness of the garment parts of the curved joint. It is proposed to establish a new model for the intelligent evaluation of garment appearance quality, and prospect the research direction of garment sewing flatness from the perspective of garment production and production, which provides a reference for the subsequent study of sewing flatness and garment making.