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Table of Content

    15 December 2019, Volume 40 Issue 12
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and characterization of cellulose acetate sub-micro fiber from burley tobacco stalk pulp
      WU Jiajun, QIN Xiaohong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181202008
      Abstract ( 462 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4316KB) ( 228 )   Save
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      In order to prepare cellulose diacetate (CDA) from burley tobacco stalk pulp (TSP) and measure its spinnability, cellulose triacetate (CTA) and CDA were prepared from burley TSP by low-temperature acetylation using acetic anhydride and sulfuric acid as catalyst. The prepared CDA was mixed with commercial CDA at a mass ratio of 20∶80, 35∶65 and 50∶50, respectively, and electrospinning was applied to spin the fibers. The structure and properties of the fibers were characterized. The result shows that with reaction time of 5 h, pulp to acetic acid sold-liquid ratio of 1∶5 and addition of sulfuric acid during activation procedure, the degree of substitution of TSP cellulose acetate increases from 2.68 to 2.86, which meets the requirements of CTA. TSP cellulose diacetate with degree of substitution about 2.5 is obtained by hydrolysis at 80 ℃ for 6 h. Compared with sub-micron blended fibers obtained from pure electrospun commercial CDA, the fiber diameter and unevenness of blended fibers of TSP cellulose diacetate and commercial CDA both reduce, proving the feasibility of blended spinning of TSP cellulose diacetate.

      Chemical stability and corrosion degradation of polyarylester fiber
      JIANG Zhaohui, JIN Mengtian, GUO Zengge, JIA Zhao, WANG Qicai, JIN Jian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  9-15.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190202608
      Abstract ( 485 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (7661KB) ( 141 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the resistance of polyacrylester fiber to high damp heat and strong corrosion, the fibers were treated by strong acid, alkali and oxidant, and then the morphological structure, aggregation structure and macromolecular chain structure of the fibers were studied. The results show that the surfaces of fibers treated with H2SO4 show no significantly change at room temperature and 60 ℃, while only a few grooves appear in the surface of fibers treated with HNO3. However, after treatment by KMnO4, the transverse grooves of the fibers increase and the longitudinal microcracks appear. Especially after treatment by NaOH, the surface of the fibers changes from grooves to pits and even show a corrosion fracture state. Acid and KMnO4 don't significantly destroy the ordered structure of the crystalline region, while NaOH solution reduces the regularity of the crystalline region. The breakage of —CH bond on the benzene ring of macromolecular chains occurs after treatment by H2SO4, HNO3, NaOH and KMnO4, and eventually leads to degradation of polyarylester fibers and reduction of residual ratio.

      Influence of spinning process on property of parallel composite polyester fiber
      LI Mingming, CHEN Ye, LI Xia, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  16-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181106905
      Abstract ( 486 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2128KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      In order to compare the influences of drawing and heat treatment processes on the properties of parallel composite fibers by different spinning processes, conventional polyester (PET) and bottle-grade PET were used as raw materials. Parallel composite fibers were prepared by two processes, including subjecting pre-oriented yarn (POY) to drawing and twisting (DT) to obtain POY-DT, and preparing full-stretching yarn (FDY) by a one-step process. The fiber crimping property, dimensional stability and the differences in mechanical properties under different heat treatment methods were compared. The results show that the overall crimping performance of FDY is better than that of POY-DT, and the sound velocity orientation factor of FDY is 0.87, obviously better than 0.43 of POY-DT, and the crystallinity is about 30%. The boiling water shrinkage ratio of FDY after boiling water treatment is 8.3%, significantly lower than 12.9% of POY-DT, but the shrinkage of FDY will further occur along with time, while relatively stable-dimension fiber filaments can be obtained from POY-DT after boiling water treatment. The influences of different heat treatment on the mechanical properties of the fiber are different, dry heat treatment is suitable for POY-DT, and wet heat treatment is suitable for FDY.

      Theoretical model for number of fiber contacts in fibrous porous materials
      BAI He, QIAN Xiaoming, FAN Jintu, QIAN Yao, LIU Yongsheng, WANG Xiaobo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  21-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181202806
      Abstract ( 365 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (3195KB) ( 145 )   Save
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      In order to study the microstructure of fibrous porous materials, the theoretical values of the number of contact points among fibers in three-dimensional and two-dimensional distribution of fibers in space were studied by establishing a theoretical model of the number of fiber contacts. According to the characteristics of Poisson distribution and combining with the research conclusions of Sampson et al, the functional relationships of the number of contact points among fibers, the diameter of fibers and the porosity were established. Geo-Dict software was adopted to simulate the fiber structure, and the number of fiber contacts was calculated. The theoretical predictions were compared with the results of previous studies. The results show that when the aspect ratio of fibers is constant, the number of fibers is proportional to the number of fiber contacts. When the porosity is constant, the diameter of fibers is inversely proportional to the number of fiber contacts. When the diameter of fibers is fixed, the number of fiber contact decreases with the increase of the porosity, and when the diameter of fibers is greater than 40 μm, the number of contacts does not change with the porosity.

      Influence of pressure on rheological behavior of polyethylene terephthalate-polyamide 6 copolymer/polyamide 6 blends
      GUO Zengge, JIANG Zhaohui, JIA Zhao, PU Congcong, LI Xin, CHENG Bowen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  27-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181205305
      Abstract ( 322 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1088KB) ( 105 )   Save
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      In order to study the rheological properties of polymers under high pressure, blends of polyethylene terephthalate-polyamide 6 copolymer (PET-PA6) and polyamide 6(PA6) were prepared by melt blending and co-extruding. The influence of pressure, shear rate and temperature on the rheological behavior of PET-PA6/PA6 blends were studied under the conditions of the outlet pressure of the capillary tube of 5-50 MPa controlled by a cock mounted at the end of the reverse pressure chamber. The results indicate that the shear viscosity of PET-PA6/PA6 blends conforms to the Barus equation with the change of pressure. At a constant shear rate, the shear viscosity of PET-PA6/PA6 blends increases gradually with the capillary pressure. When the shear rate is increased from 108 s-1 to 1 080 s-1, the pressure coefficient decreases by 19.24%, and when the temperature is increased from 265 to 290 ℃, the pressure coefficient decreases by 32.33%. The dependence of shear viscosity of PET-PA6/PA6 blends on pressure decreases with the shear rate and the temperature.

      Textile Engineering
      Preparation and compression properties of bamboo-structure hollow monofilaments by 3D printing
      ZHANG Xiaohui, YANG Tong, MA Pibo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  32-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190201707
      Abstract ( 288 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (11092KB) ( 167 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of the internal structure of bamboo-structure hollow monofilaments on the compression properties, bamboo-structure hollow monofilaments and solid monofilaments with the length of 100 mm and the external diameter of 2 mm were prepared by 3D printing technology using polyester as the feeding fiber. The finite element(FEM) analysis was adopted to find the influence on the compression properties of warp-knitted spacer fabrics prepared from the bamboo-structure hollow monofilaments. The experimental and FEM results show that the structure of monofilaments influence the compression properties. The bamboo-structure hollow monofilaments undertake more load per unit mass compared with the solid monofilament, and the greater the proportion of the hollow part of the hollow monofilaments, the greater the load born by per unit mass of bamboo-structure hollow monofilament. The compression properties of warp-knitted spacer fabrics are influenced by the internal structure of spacer monofilaments. The greater the proportion of the hollow part of the bamboo-structure hollow monofilaments as the spacer monofilaments, the greater the load born by per unit mass of the warp-knitted spacer fabrics.

      Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics
      WEI Yanhong, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping, SU Xuzhong, ZHANG Zhongxi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204306
      Abstract ( 484 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3915KB) ( 155 )   Save
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      In order to study shape retention and wearing properties of polyester(PET) filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics, three kinds of 9.8 tex yarns were developed from PET filament and pure cotton yarn. Four kinds of fabrics were woven with two up two down twill weaves. The shape retention and wearing properties of the fabrics were tested, such as wrinkle recovery, ironing-free, dimensional stability, drapability, tensile strength, tensile resilience, bursting property, handle style, moisture and air permeability. The shape retention and wearing properties of pure cotton fabric and composite yarn fabric were compared and analyzed. The results show that the PET filament/cotton composite yarns can improve the wrinkle resistance, drapability of the fabrics and the ironing-free level without affecting the wearing property of the fabric. Compared with the wrapped yarns, the core yarn fabric has higher wrinkle resistance and ironing-free level. The core yarn fabric is a good idea for ironing-free shirt fabrics.

      Strain sensor based on silver nanowires coated yarn with chain stitch structure
      WU Ronghui, MA Liyun, ZHANG Yifan, LIU Xiangyang, YU Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181107406
      Abstract ( 391 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2672KB) ( 220 )   Save
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      In order to prepare yarn-based strain sensor, the twisted silk filaments were woven into a closed chain stitch structure. Silver nanowire was prepared by reducing silver nitrate with polyol, base yarns were impregnated in an ethanol dispersion of the silver nanowires for conductivity modification. The strain-resistance sensing performance of the yarn-based strain sensor was studied. The results show that the yarns with the chain stitch structure have excellent strain sensing performance, the yarn resistance decreases with the increase of the strain. When the tensile strain is less than 5%, the gauge factor of the strain sensor is up to 20.14. The sensor has stable response in the tensile frequency range from 0.01 Hz to 1.00 Hz, and also has good cycle stability.

      Fabric defect detection method based on improved fast weighted median filtering and K-means
      ZHANG Huanhuan, MA Jinxiu, JING Junfeng, LI Pengfei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  50-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181200407
      Abstract ( 483 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (7209KB) ( 135 )   Save
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      In order to detect various defects in the production process of textured fabrics, a texture fabric defect detection method based on improved weighted median filtering and K-means clustering was proposed. Firstly, the fabric image was preprocessed by the improved weighted median filter to reduce the influence of texture information on the defect detection. At the same time, by assigning weights and pixels to the histogram dynamic data, the time to seek the median was effectively shortened to increase the execution speed. Then, the K-means algorithm was adopted to cluster the filtered fabric images, and the cluster centers of the fabric image defects and non-defects were calculated, thereby realizing the segmentation of the image defect regions. The experimental results show that the method can effectively detect the defects of various types of textured fabrics such as square, dot, star, plain, and twill and significantly increase the detection speed.

      Bending properties of three-dimensional braided composite T-beam at low temperature
      LIU Jun, LIU Kui, NING Bo, SUN Baozhong, ZHANG Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  57-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190106006
      Abstract ( 330 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (5343KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      In order to study the bending properties of three-dimensional (3-D) braided composite T-beam at low temperature so as to design low temperature resistant and bending resistant 3-D braided composite structure, the 3-D braided composite T-beam with different flange heights was fabricated by vacuum assisted resin transfer molding. The MTS 810.23 material testing system in combination with a self-developed low temperature environment testing system was adopted to test the bending properties of the 3-D braided composite T-beam at different temperatures. The results show that the failure load, displacement and energy absorption increase with the decrease of the temperature, and the bending rigidity, failure load and energy absorption increase with the increase of the flange height of the T-beam. The displacement decreases with the increase of the flange height. The failure behavior of 3-D braided composite T-beam changes from yield fracture at high temperature to brittle fracture at low temperature. The failure mode changes from bending failure to shear failure with the increase of height of flange height.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Compatibility and dyeing properties of blending black disperse dyes
      LIU Yue, MO Linxiang, CHEN Feng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  63-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180801605
      Abstract ( 479 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (942KB) ( 177 )   Save
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      Aiming at poor compatibility and low dye lifting power of black disperse dyes for polyester textile dyeing, a set of medium temperature color-dispersed dye components were selected. The compatibility and dyeing properties were tested in dyeing. The results show that the medium temperature type monoazo disperse dyes of Disperse Purple SE-E, Disperse Orange SE-G and Disperse Blue SE-F were mixed for black disperse dyes, at a blending ratio of 0.50∶1.85∶0.65. The liquid black disperse dye has a lower brightness value and an excellent lifting force, realizing deep black dyeing effect of the polyester textile. In addition, the stripping and color fastness test data of the dyed samples shows that the concentration ratio of each dye component on the dyed sample is substantially consistents with the blending ratio, indicating that the blended black disperse dye components have good compatibility and dyeing properties.

      Preparation and application properties of wool-Fe complex-based heterogeneous Fenton photocatalysts
      CUI Guixin, DONG Yongchun, WANG Peng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  68-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190303606
      Abstract ( 384 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1219KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      To improve the recycling value of waste wool, three wool fibers with different diameters and scales structures were coordinated with Fe3+ ions for producing three wool-Fe complexes as heterogeneous Fenton photocatalysts for the oxidative degradation of azo dyes. The influence of reaction conditions and the diameter and scale thickness of wool fiber on Fe content and photocatalytic activity of the complexes was investigated. The results indicate that high Fe content and elevated temperature can enhance the coordination of the Fe3+ and wool, and the wool fiber with low scale thickness is coordinated easily with Fe3+ to form wool-Fe complex containing higher Fe content. The coordination of wool fiber with Fe3+ ions can be described by Lagergren pseudo-second-order kinetic model. The wool fiber with low scale thickness shows a slower coordination rate than the other two wool fiber. Three resulting wool-Fe complexes have a significant photocatalytic function on dye degradation. High Fe content and increased irradiation can enhance their photocatalytic activity. The complexes prepared from thin wool fiber exhibites stronger photocatalytic performance and low pH sensitivity.

      Influence of silk sericin temperature sensitive hydrogel on properties of cotton fabrics
      CUI Yifan, HOU Wei, ZHOU Qianxi, YAN Jun, LU Yanhua, HE Tingting
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  74-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180902605
      Abstract ( 357 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1408KB) ( 113 )   Save
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      In order to improve the mechanical properties and the thermostability of cotton fabrics, the N-isopropyl acrylamide/silk sericin IPN hydrogel was prepared by the interpenetrating polymer network (IPN) technology. The glutaraldehyde (GA) was used as crosslinking agent, and the IPN hydrogel was adopted to modify the cotton fabrics by the impregnation method. The IPN hydrogel and modified cotton fabrics were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, X-ray diffraction, thermogravimetric analysis and universal material tension machine. The results show that the lowest critical solution temperature is 30.79 ℃ for the hydrogel. A layer of modified hydrogen film is formed between the surface of modified cotton fabrics and the fibers, which crystal 2θ angle has no shift. The breaking strength, elongation at break and elasticity modulus are improved by 29.39%, 35.24% and 17.58%, respectively. The decomposition temperature of modified cotton fabrics is raised by 61.79%.

      Synthesis and characterization of novel phosphorous and nitrogen-containing flame retardant for cotton fabrics
      SUN Yufa, ZHOU Xiangdong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  79-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180903207
      Abstract ( 390 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3151KB) ( 134 )   Save
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      In order to achieve formaldehyde-free flame retardant finishing on cotton fabrics, a novel phosphorus and nitrogen-containing flame retardant polyether diol(PNFR) was synthesized from dimethyl methylphosphonate(DMMP) and diethanolamine(DEA) by transesterification polymerization using dibutyltin dilaurate as the catalyst, and it is also used for finishing cotton fabric. The structure and application performance of PNFR and the modified cotton were investigated by Fourier infrared spectrometer, thermal analyzer, scanning electron microscope, limited oxygen index tester and vertical burning instrument. The experimental results show that when the molar ratio of DMMP and DEA is 1.0∶1.3, the dosage of catalyst is 0.5% of total mass of reactants, the reaction temperature is 150 ℃, reaction time is 5 h and the dosage of PNFR is 200 g/L, the afterflame time, afterglow time, damaged length and limiting oxygen index(LOI) of the treated cotton fabric are 0 s, 12.1 cm and 28.4% respectively, reaching class B1 of national standard of flame retardant fabrics. Even after 10 washing cycles, class B2 of the treated cotton fabric is achieved while its LOI drops to 25.9%.

      Construction and properties of superhydrophobic layer of titania/fluorosilane on polyester fabric surface
      XU Lin, REN Yu, ZHANG Hongyang, WU Shuangquan, LI Ya, DING Zhirong, JIANG Wenwen, XU Sijun, ZANG Chuanfeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  86-92.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181107107
      Abstract ( 624 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (3246KB) ( 372 )   Save
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      In order to develop polyester fabrics with water repellent, antifouling and ultraviolet resistant properties, nano-titania was formed in-situ on the polyester fabric surface by sol-hydrothermal method using tetrabutyl titanate as precursor, and then subjected to low surface energy modification by fluorosi-lane (1H,1H,2H,2H-perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane). The surface morphology, crystalline structure, surface chemical composition and surface wettability of polyester fabrics were analyzed, and the oil resistance and ultraviolet resistance of the treated polyester fabrics were tested. The results show that anatase phase titania is formed in-situ on the surface of polyester fabric, and fluorosilane is uniformly deposited on the fibers after the treatment. The water-repellent and oil-repellent properties of polyester fabrics treated with titania-fluorosilane are significantly improved. The surface water contact angle reaches 153°, and the oil-repellent grade reaches 6 grades. The average ultraviolet transmittance of ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B segments decreases to 0.37% and 0.01%, respectively.

      Preparation and properties of polypyrrole composite fabric by soft template process
      CHEN Ying, ZHOU Shuang, WEI Tianjing, FANG Haoxia, LI Yufei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  93-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180900406
      Abstract ( 374 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2955KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      In order to improve conductivity and hydrophobicity of polypyrrole composite fibers, polypyrrole composite cotton and polyester(PET) fabrics were prepared by different soft templates. The micro-morphology of the composite material were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, and the surface resistance, electrical conductivity, contact angle, K/S value, dry friction and breaking strength of the polypyrrole/cotton and polypyrrole/polyester fabrics were tested. The results show that the best soft template for polypyrrole/cotton fabric and polypyrrole/polyester fabric is sodium anthraquinone-2-sulfonate, considering the highest conductivity, polypyrrole/cotton fabric has higher conductivity. Hydrophobic effect is the best when methyl orange is used as soft template for cotton fabric, and for polyester fabric sodium ligninsul-fonate(LGS) is used as soft template. The friction grade is the best when the LGS is used as the soft template for cotton fabric. For polypyrrole/PET fabric, the friction grade is lower except sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate and hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide as the soft temperature, and the abrasion resistance is needed to be further improved.

      Preparation of modified aramid fiber and epoxy resin composites and stab resistance thereof
      ZHUANG Qun, ZHANG Fei, DU Zhaofang, JIANG Hua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  98-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180505806
      Abstract ( 502 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1689KB) ( 227 )   Save
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      In order to improve the stab resistance of aramid fabrics, oxygen plasma modified aramid 1414 fabrics were combined with epoxy resin to prepare epoxy aramid composites. The influence of plasma pretreatment on the functional modification of the fabric was investigated, and then stab resistance of the composites was further studied. The experiment results show that when the plasma treatment power is 600 W and the treatment time is 18 min, the fabric surface is etched obviously and the number of oxygen-containing groups increases, and the wettability is improved, but the fabric tensile strength decreases; when the epoxy resin is coated on the plasma-modified aramid fabric, the epoxy group in the resin is firmly bonded with the oxygen-containing active group in the aramid fiber and the bond strength of the complex is better. The tensile strength is increased by 7.89% and the tested composite stab resistance is significantly improved compared with the conventional aramid 1414 fabric, the multi-layered structure has more excellent stab resistance.

      Deodorizing effect of polyester fabric treated by citric acid/β-cyclodextrin
      DAI Yue, ZHANG Ruiping, WANG Qiuping, HU Ya'nan, ZHANG Xianguo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  104-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181203005
      Abstract ( 614 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1426KB) ( 236 )   Save
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      In order to develop polyester fabrics with deodorizing function, β-cyclodextrin (β-CD) was used as the deodorant, and the anchored polyester fabric was studied with the ammonia elimination value as an indicator. The deodorizing effect of β-CD, citric acid (CA) and deodorizing time on the deodorizing effect of finishing fabrics were analyzed. The water wash resistance of the deodorized fabric was tested. The scanning electron microscopy and infrared spectrometer were adopted to characterize the polyester fabric before and after finishing. The results show that the maximum anchorage of β-CD in the experimental range is 57.36 mg/g. The β-CD (mass concentration is 60 g/L) anchoring fabric has the combined ammonia elimination time of 14 h and the ammonia elimination value of 4.442 5 mg/g. After 15 cycles of washing, the ammonia elimination value of the fabric is 64 times of the unfinished fabric, and the washing resistance is good. The polyester fiber surface has the obvious loading of β-CD, and the oxygen element content increases significantly. The infrared spectra indicates an increase in the hydroxy content of the fiber after finishing.

      Apparel Engineering
      Evaluation of thermal storage performance of honeycomb insulation layer for fireproof clothing
      HOU Yuying, LI Xiaohui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  109-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181105505
      Abstract ( 432 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1066KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In order to improve the stored thermal energy of fireproof clothing in the fire environment, the honeycomb insulation layer was applied to the fireproof clothing, and its heat storage performance was evaluated. The current typical fire-fighting clothing fabrics was selected, the side length, wall thickness and core thickness of the honeycomb core were designed, and 21 kinds of experimental samples were prepared. The fire environment was simulated by the stored energy test instrument, and the minimum exposure time(MET) of the experimental samples was recorded. The influences of the length, wall thickness and core thickness of the 6 honeycomb types on MET of the experimental samples were investigated. The results show that the weight of the thermal liner can be reduced by up to 64%, and the MET is increased by up to 10 s. As the wall thickness of the honeycomb hole type increases, the MET also increases. The core thickness is positively correlated with the MET, and the side length of the hole is negatively correlated with the MET.

      Influences of waist shape classification of young female on position setting of cheongsam waist dart
      LIU Tao, XU Liping, ZOU Fengyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  114-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181203405
      Abstract ( 474 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2734KB) ( 314 )   Save
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      In order to explore the relationship between waist dart design and waist shape, the waist data of young female extracted by three-dimensional body scanner, and the characteristic variables such as hip angle and the waist vector cross ratio reflecting the waist shape of young women were extracted. The waist shapes were classified into 9 types by using clustering analysis. The mass-flat type, wasp-waisted flat type and mass-cylindrical type have the highest coverage among the nine types. Then the design of waist darts was optimized based on the basic pattern of cheongsam. By subjective evaluation analysis, the mass-flat type and the mass-cylindrical type will have the best effect if the waist darts on the bisector. The wasp-waisted flat type will have the best effect if the front waist darts on the bisector and the back ones on the point of quartered close to side seam.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Automation improvement design of weaving curtain loom
      GAO Zhigang, LIU Leilei, WANG Yong, XU Yang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  119-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180706808
      Abstract ( 263 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1258KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      At present, the weaving curtain loom still requires manual operation during the process of weft selection and weft insertion involved in the low level of automation of loom. An automatic weft selection device of woven shade loom integrating storage, screening, selection and transportation of weft material was designed and developed independently. The SolidWorks software platform was adopted to conduct three-dimensional modeling and virtual assembly operations based on the detailed analysis of the structural design requirements of key components in the automatic weft selection device, and the corresponding two-dimensional drawings were automatically generated to obtain the processing and assembly of the components, and the automatic weft selection device was successfully built. At the same time, the negative take-up and let-off mechanism in loom that is prone to result in a series of problems such as the unevenness of weft density and warp tension is upgraded with an efficient and appropriate electronic take-up and let-off system, and then combined with the technical requirements of weaving, the control scheme of the weaving curtain loom is designed. The results show that the scheme has the advantages of simple structure, low cost and wide variety adaption range, which facilitates improving the automation level of the loom.

      Modeling of rotary shifting motion characteristics of electronic dobby and influence thereof on shedding mechanisms driving
      YUAN Ruwang, ZHU Leilei, LÜ Xuekui, YANG Jiamin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  127-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181203707
      Abstract ( 297 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1259KB) ( 303 )   Save
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      In order to address the adaptability of electronic dobby shedding to different weaving technologies, the construction and motion characteristics of the rotary shifting mechanism were analyzed. Methods for kinetically analyzing and designing the mechanism based on the fixed cam-slider combination were proposed, and a rotary shifting density sinusoidal motion curve model and a relative motion transmission model were established to facilitate the serialized design of the products. Then the influence of the changes in the linkage parameters on the performance of the rotary shifting mechanism and the workmanship of the shedding was investigated. The results show that the relative motion between the rotator arm and the eccentric link can be approximated as the constant angular speed ratio transmission, where the jacklever's motion eigenvalue starts from 0.000 and changes continuously along with the density adjustment coefficient without abrupt changes. The cam contour, pressure angle, curvature radius, the motion eigenvalue of the jacklever and its time of relative stillness to the main shaft are all reduced. A proper selection of the density adjustment coefficient can facilitate achieving an optimal pattern of the changing acceleration speed or torque to meet the needs of different weaving technologies, thereby laying a theoretical groundwork and providing a technical reference to the serialized design of electronic dobby.

      Real-time motion control technology of knitting circular machine
      DAI Ning, HU Xudong, PENG Laihu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  134-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180705606
      Abstract ( 708 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (2109KB) ( 209 )   Save
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      Aiming at problems of existing knitting circular machine, such as easy failure in the operation state switching, unstable speed control and low precision, a motion control design scheme for knitting circular machine based on advanced RISE machine(ARM ) processor was proposed. Combined with the characteristics of various motion states such as running, jogging, forced running and stopping of the knitting circular machine, the control mode and running characteristics of the variable frequency motor were summarized and analyzed. According to the motion control technology of the knitting circular machine, the overall design structure of the scheme was constructed. The key hardware circuit design and motion control algorithm were discussed, and software development was carried out. Three different working states were classified for the inching, running, stopping buttons to acquire the current state of motion required to knitting circular machine at the moment. Analog input was adopted for the variable frequency motor speed control, and pulse width modulation (PWM) was adopted to control the size of its analog input. In order to control the stability of the knitting circular machine's running speed, the voltage fluctuation of PWM analog input was studied at different frequency values, and the most suitable frequency value was selected according to the actual situation. The results indicate that this scheme has high real-time performance and stability, meeting the control requirements of the knitting circular machine.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress of electrospun animal protein nanofibers
      LÜ Tingting, AN Ying, LI Haoyi, LIU Yujian, JIAO Zhiwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  140-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181206406
      Abstract ( 529 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1051KB) ( 219 )   Save
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      In order to expand the application field of electrospinning nanofibers and broaden the material sources of electrospinning process, the recent research progress of electrospinning animal protein nanofibers at home and abroad was reviewed. In view of the denaturation of protein by organic solvents in current electrospinning process, several methods of substituting organic solvents were introduced, and their advantages and disadvantages were compared. It was concluded that water-soluble polymers were more advantageous than organic solvents in the application of protein nanofibers in the field of biomedicine. The influences of cross-linking modification and blending modification on the mechanical properties of electrospun animal protein nanofibers were discussed. The application of electrospun collagen nanofibers in biomedical field was summarized. Finally, the urgent problems and future development directions of electrospun animal protein nanofibers were prospected.

      Research progress of fabric image feature extraction and retrieval based on convolutional neural network
      SUN Jie, DING Xiaojun, DU Lei, LI Qinman, ZOU Fengyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  146-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190105306
      Abstract ( 660 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (2108KB) ( 313 )   Save
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      In order to explore the problem of automatic recognition and retrieval in fabric images, the research progress of this field in three aspects: shallow visual feature extraction, deep semantic feature representation and retrieval model construction was summarized, and then the existing problems were analyzed. The research shows that shallow visual features of fabric images have good applicability in the retrieval of small sample data sets, and the application of multi-feature fusion can effectively improve the retrieval accuracy, but there are limitations in the retrieval of large sample data sets and high-level semantic recognition. The deep convolutional neural network can effectively overcome this problem. The optimal design of fabric semantic attributes, the structural optimization of convolutional neural network and distance metric learning are three effective ways to improve the precision of deep retrieval model. It is believed that the improvement of fabric image recognition and retrieval accuracy in the future mainly depends on three aspects: accurate image segmentation and recognition technology, standardized semantic system design and multi-modal retrieval information fusion.

      Academic Salon Column for New Insight of Textile Science and Technology: Preparation Technology and
      Thoughts on preparation technology of high performance polyacrylonitrile-based carbon fibers
      ZHANG Ze, XU Weijun, KANG Hongliang, XU Jian, LIU Ruigang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  152-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190905410
      Abstract ( 573 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (1265KB) ( 265 )   Save
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      Polyacrylonitrile (PAN)-based carbon fibers were developed rapidly in the past twenty years in China. Based on the current state of the development of PAN-based carbon fibers, basic problems in the production process of PAN-based carbon fibers were considered and summarized. In the preparation of PAN spinning solution, continuous polymerization of PAN was realized by the cooperation of polymerization process and equipment, by which homogeneous PAN spinning solution with stable properties can be prepared. In the preparation of PAN precursor fibers, the phase separation process of PAN spinning solution was controlled by coagulation parameters to reduce the size of micro-pores formed during phase separation. The drying and hot-drawing procedures, the temperature, humidity and tension were carefully controlled to optimize the micro-pores fusion, crystallization and orientation of PAN molecule to prepare high-quality PAN precursor. In the stabilization and carbonization procedures, the skin-core and turbostratic graphite structure were controlled by adjusting temperature and stress fields to control the structure and properties of the resultant PAN-based carbon fibers.

      Axial tensile properties of three-dimensional woven composites with variant structure
      LIU Junling, SUN Ying, CHEN Li
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  162-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190806707
      Abstract ( 226 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (11637KB) ( 156 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that adding yarns or cutting yarns method will cause local variation of the interlace structure of the three-dimensional (3-D) woven preform, which will further affect the mechanical properties of the composite, four types of 3-D woven quartz fiber resin matrix composites were manufactured by adding yarns and cutting yarns in combination. The yarn path of the adding and cutting yarns regions were established by observation and topological method, and the digital image correlation technology was adopted to study the full field longitudinal strain change during the stretching process. The experiment results show that the samples with added and cut yarns have higher strength and modulus retention of more than 93.0% and 88.0% respectively, and have no significant difference in elongation at break. The mechanical response and fracture failure mode during the tensile test are consistent with the samples without the added and cut yarns. The strain map indicates that the damage oneset at the interlacing point, and the high strain of the samples with added and cut yarns was concentrated at the point of adding and cutting yarns, which is correspondent to the resin-rich low strain region.

      Research progress of stitching technology of composite materials
      WANG Xianfeng, GAO Tiancheng, XIAO Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  169-177.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.21090602909
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      In order to better understand the research status of stitching technology of composite materials, the stitching methods and stitching parameters were introduced, the research on the mechanical properties of stitching composite materials and the development and application of stitching equipment at home and abroad were summarized. The influence of stitching technology on the mechanical properties of composite material was emphasized. It was proved that the stitching introduces continuous fibers in the thickness direction of the material, which can enhance the interlaminar fracture toughness of composites and improve the impact damage tolerance. Special attention was paid to the development status of the combination of stitching system and robot. Based on the existing equipment, the new equipment should be further innovated to promote the high-efficiency and intelligentization of the suturing technology of composite materials. Finally, the challenges and opportunities of the current development of suturing technology was put forward, and the development prospects of composite suture technology in the fields of aerospace, new energy and automobile were pointed out.

      Control method and technology of resin injection for resin transfer molding in manufacturing of composite materials
      ZHANG Guoli, ZHANG Ce, SHI Xiaoping, WANG Zhipeng, JIANG Qian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(12):  178-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190806607
      Abstract ( 430 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (5495KB) ( 113 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of bubbles or dry spots caused by incapability of completely removing local air or completely impregnating the effective area by resin in the resin injection for resin transfer molding (RTM), the mechanism of bubble wrapping and dry spot formation in RTM forming process was systematically analyzed. The influence of non-deterministic factors in RTM molding process on the flow quality of RTM resin injection was summarized and introduced, such as the regional distribution difference of preform permeability, the difference in interleaving law of preform yarn bundle, the difference in size of preform and cavity, the difference in number of inlet and outlet positions of RTM mould and the difference in requirements, and the new technologies and methods for regulating the flow shape of resin were put forward. Finally, the simulation of RTM resin flow process for T-type composite structural products was carried out, which provides a theoretical and method reference for the development of new RTM injection technology for composite materials with complicated structures.