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Table of Content

    15 February 2020, Volume 41 Issue 02
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and properties of cellulose nanofiber/montmorillonite composite aerogels
      DANG Danyang, CUI Lingyan, WANG Liang, LIU Yong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203806
      Abstract ( 604 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3625KB) ( 320 )   Save
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      To enhance the flammability and mechanical strength of cellulose nanofiber(CNF) aerogels, nanoscale montmorillonite (MMT) were introduced to CNF suspension, followed by a freeze-drying process to obtain CNF/MMT composite aerogels in this work. The effects of MMT content on the morphology characterization, compressive mechanical properties, thermal stability, thermal conductivity and flame retardancy of CNF/MMT composite aerogels were studied. The results show that the presence of MMT resulted in a denser lamellar structure of aerogels, which improved the mechanical properties, thermal stability and flame retardancy of aerogels. When the mass fraction of MMT is 50%, it is found that the CNF/MMT composite aerogels reaches the maximum density but only as low as 0.016 8 g/cm3, that the maximum stress becomes 12.45 kPa at 10% strain and 77.93 kPa at 70% strain, and that the maximum thermal conductivity is 0.04 W/(m·K). The limiting oxygen index values of CNF/MMT based aerogels shows significant increase when the mass fraction of MMT in aerogels is no less than 42.9%.

      Preparation and properties of lignin/polyacrylonitrile composite fibers
      SONG Le, SHEN Lanping, HUANG Xianwen, HENG Fangfang, MA Hongbo, OUYANG Qin, CHEN Peng, WANG Xuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  7-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190404406
      Abstract ( 376 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3354KB) ( 180 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the preparation cost of existing polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fiber and achieve high value utilization of lignin, different proportions of lignin were used to prepare the lignin/PAN fibers employing the wet spinning process based on the understanding of viscosity of lignin/PAN blending solution, and the results from this work were used to identify the optimal spinning process. The structure and properties of the composite fibers were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, differential scanning calorimetry/thermal resynchronization analyzer, single fiber physical property analyzer, and UV-visible spectrophotometer. The results show that the lignin/PAN fiber with 35% lignin remains a uniform and dense structure, and its strength can reach 3.81 cN/dtex. After the addition of lignin, the synergistic effect of the two gives the composite fiber good thermal stability. The composite fiber has important potential application value in the fields of low cost carbon fiber and functional textile materials.

      Preparation and properties of silk fibroin based bilayer dressing materials
      ZHONG Hongrong, FANG Yan, BAO Hong, WU Tingfang, ZHANG Xiaoning, XU Shui, ZHU Yong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  13-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190102807
      Abstract ( 529 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (3483KB) ( 235 )   Save
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      In order to solve poor water absorption and insufficient mechanical properties of silk fibroin (SF), the SF/Glu sponge was prepared through lyophilization with silk fibroin as the substrate and hydrophilic glucose (Glu) and plasticizer glycerol (Gly) as the auxiliary materials. In the meantime, polyurethane (PU) was manufactured into membrane by using the evaporation solvent method. A medical hot melt adhesive was then employed to glue the SF/Glu sponge and PU membrane together to create the bilayer dressing materials, whose structure and properties were analyzed afterwards. The results show that when the mass fraction of Gly is set to 0.5%, that of PU to 8%, and that of Glu to 10%, the water absorption by silk fibroin bilayer dressing material became 12.5 times higher than its own mass. In addition, the bilayer dressing demonstrates a low dissolubility of less than 2% and the water retention time reaches 11 h. Structural characterization reveals that the glucose and silk fibroin have good compatibility and glucose enables silk fibroin to maintain a stable β-sheet structure. The bilayer dressing bio-safety experiments further indicate that the new dressing material is not cytotoxic and is bacterial-resistant.

      Preparation of poly(aspartic acid) based fiber hydrogel and its drug release behavior
      LI Sijie, ZHANG Caidan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  20-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190403107
      Abstract ( 541 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (4536KB) ( 137 )   Save
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      To develop a sustained drug delivery system with pH sensitivity, polysuccinimide (PSI), as the intermediate of pH-sensitive polyaspartic acid (PASP), and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) were used to produce electro-spun membranes, with 5-fluorouracil being the model drug. The PSI/TPU fiber membrane with skin-core structure was prepared by coaxial electrospinning. Then PASP/TPU fiber hydrogel based drug-loading system was obtained by post-treatment of PSI/TPU fiber membrane. The effects of electro-spinning parameters and post-treatment on fiber membrane morphology, chemical structure, mechanical properties and swelling properties were analyzed. The drug release behavior of PASP/TPU fiber hydrogel in vitro was studied. The results show that PASP/TPU fiber hydrogel is gained by crosslinking and hydrolysis of PSI/TPU fiber membrane. With the increase of inner layer flow rate during coaxial electrospinning, the core thickness and mechanical properties of PASP/TPU fiber hydrogel increase, while the swelling ratio of PASP/TPU fiber hydrogel decreases. In addition, PASP/TPU fiber hydrogel with pH sensitivity exhibits swelling ratio increase when increasing the pH value. Drug release rate of PASP/TPU nanofiber hydrogel in vitro varies according to the pH value of release medium.

      Fabrication and properties of polypropylene/polyester bicomponent micro-nanofiber webs via melt blowing process
      ZHEN Qi, ZHANG Heng, ZHU Feichao, SHI Jianhong, LIU Yong, ZHANG Yifeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  26-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190301507
      Abstract ( 762 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (4447KB) ( 278 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flexibility of pure polypropylene (PP) microfiber materials, polypropylene/polyester (PP/PET) bi-component micro-nanofibers were prepared by melt-blown blending processing using PET and PP chips. The melt flowing index and thermal properties of the materials were studied, and the morphological characteristics and flexibility of the samples were analyzed experimentally. The sample morphology shows a typical melt-blown fiber webs structure, and the fine and coarse fibers overlap in the horizontal direction forming a layer-by-layer morphology. Besides, the average fiber diameter decreases from 5.52 μm to 3.61 μm when the PET mass ratio increases from 8% to 15%. A clear phase interface is observed between PET and PP components in the bi-component fiber and PET exists in the form of fibers with diameters ranging from 10-100 nm. Furthermore, the flexibility score of the samples increases from 29.91 to 35.20 as PET content increases.

      Characterization on distribution of TiO2 particles in opaque polyester and dull nylon filaments
      XING Dandan, WANG Ni, LIU Huyi, GAN Xuehui, SHI Meiwu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  33-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181107206
      Abstract ( 285 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (7744KB) ( 62 )   Save
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      In view of the current lack of corresponding characterization methods for the distribution of particles in functional fibers prepared by blending, a new refractive index method for making transparent fibers by preparing a solution with the same refractive index as the fiber was proposed. This new method was used to measure TiO2 distribution in opaque polyester fibers and dull polyamide fibers. In this research, scanning electron microscopy was used to characterize the distribution of the TiO2 particles in both the cross-sectional and the longitudinal surface of the fiber, while the three-dimensional imaging of nano-C technology was used for 3-D reconstruction of fibers. The results show that compared with the scanning electron microscopy that can only show the distribution of TiO2 in a small range, the refractive index method has certain feasibility in characterizing the distribution of blended particles in fibers. The results of nano-CT imaging after 3-D reconstruction can be used to count the blended particles and the particle size distributions. The experimental results of the three testing methods show that the agglomeration of inorganic particles in the fiber is more easily caused by master batch spinning than slicing spinning.

      Research and application of algorithm for measuring hemp fiber cross-sectional parameters based on boundary tracking
      ZHANG Zhengye, XIN Binjie, DENG Na, CHEN Yang, XING Wenyu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  39-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204905
      Abstract ( 300 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (6922KB) ( 66 )   Save
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      It is difficult to simultaneously measure the parameters of multiple fibers in the cross-section image of fibers. To solve this problem, an algorithm based on boundary tracking for measuring the cross-section parameters of hemp fibers was proposed. After the edges of hemp fibers were extracted by an edge extraction algorithm, an appropriate edge detection image was obtained by modifying sensitivity threshold of the edge extraction algorithm. The hemp fibers were then identified and marked by a boundary tracking algorithm. All hemp fibers in the image were marked by cyclic marking and path point coordinates of boundary tracking were preserved. Finally, the algorithm was used to measure the perimeter, area and roundness of hemp fibers. The experimental results show that the method can simultaneously measure cross-sectional parameters of several hemp fibers. According to the data of the standard circle used for testing, the circumference deviation and area deviation of hemp fibers measured by this algorithm are about 3% and 4% respectively, and the data error is small.

      Textile Engineering
      Defect detection on surface of draw texturing yarn packages in gradient space
      JING Junfeng, ZHANG Junyang, ZHANG Huanhuan, SU Zebin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  44-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190401708
      Abstract ( 471 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (5418KB) ( 184 )   Save
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      A method based on the difference of image information entropy and energy distribution in gradient space was proposed to solve the low efficiency and high missing rate of manual defect detection on the surface of DTY (draw texturing yarn) packages in industrial production. Firstly, the image acquisition device based on machine vision was designed to acquire the surface image of DTY packages during transmission. Then, the image of DTY packages was transformed into gradient space domain, and a combination feature of information entropy and energy was constructed to characterize the defect. Appropriate threshold was selected to distinguish the defect area from the normal area. Finally, the final detection result was obtained by morphological processing. The experimental results show that the method has a good detection effect for the defects such as stain, indentation and hairiness on the surface of DTY packages. The accuracy of defect recognition method is high and the speed is fast, which meets the requirements of the factory for accuracy and real-time detection, and realizes the automatic detection of defects on the surface of the DTY packages.

      Tensile strength of polyester/ramie nonwoven composite applied on pipeline rehabilitation
      FU Lisong, ZHANG Shujie, WANG Rui, YANG Zhaowei, JING Mengke
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  52-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204106
      Abstract ( 282 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2769KB) ( 289 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the requirements of polyester resources hence the petroleum resources, polyester/ramie hybrid nonwoven composites were prepared. It was found that hybridizing polyester and ramie would have certain effect on the tensile strength of the pipeline after lining construction and repair. In this paper, the formulae for calculating the critical hybrid ratio and tensile strength of polyester/ramie nonwovens lining composites for pipeline repairing were established based on the law of mixing of composite materials and Hooke's law. The theoretical ratio was found to be 0.177 and the experimental ratio was around 0.2. The experimental tensile strength was basically consistent with the theoretical prediction. The results show that the formula for calculating critical hybrid ratio and tensile strength are practically useful, which can provide theoretical basis for the design and manufacture of tubular nonwovens composites for repairing damaged pipelines with pipes with large pipe diameters, such as non-pressure sewage and drainage.

      Design principal and practice of layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric
      ZHOU Jiu, LU Shuangyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  58-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181202106
      Abstract ( 412 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (12765KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      Referring to the issue that the weave structure and color expression on the face of jacquard fabric are restricted via traditional graphic design process, an innovative layered-combination design mode for jacquard fabric was suggested, based on the digital image design principal that by layering then combining color information for color expressing, by considering the construction of jacquard fabric as a combination of several weave structures. Meanwhile, the design of complex compound structures of jacquard fabric was implemented through independent design and combination of structure layers of the fabric. Besides, the basic framework of the research, the technology application as well as the innovative product innovation system based on digital jacquard fabric layered-combination design mode, was built up on the basis of the design principle, design methods and critical technical issues of digital jacquard fabric layered-combination design mode. The application values have already been proved by the design practices.

      Molding principle and weaving of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabric
      SUN Ting, LÜ Zhining, LI Yanqing, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  64-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190305805
      Abstract ( 473 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (5518KB) ( 168 )   Save
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      In order to widen the design idea of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics, and design pleated fabrics with three-dimensional geometric effects, the forming principle of the three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics was studied and discussed. The design started from drawing folding lines in a two-dimensional fabric, forming the geometric pattern of a certain regularity, and the geometric patterns were classified into convex fold areas and concave fold areas by the fold line. Different weaves were used in different folded areas, and elastic and inelastic yarns were used for alternate weft insertion. This procedure was used as the base design for three-dimensional geometric fold fabrics. The results show that on the basis of the designed geometric pattern, different weft backed weaves can be used to construct different folded areas, and in a particular case, silk is employed as the warp, polyester and spandex-coated elastic yarn and non-elastic polyester are selected as the weft for weaving the fabric. Such woven fabrics demonstrate that obvious three-dimensional geometric shapes can be created.

      Method for detecting fluff quality of fabric surface based on BP neural network
      JIN Shoufeng, LIN Qiangqiang, MA Qiurui, ZHANG Hao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  69-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181201008
      Abstract ( 402 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (7962KB) ( 90 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate objectively the fluff state of fabric surface after the raising process, a method for detecting the surface fluff quality of the fabric based on BP neural network was proposed. The fluff contour image was collected by the principle of optical imaging, and the fluff region was segmented by adaptive image segmentation method. The Freeman chain code principle was applied to the obtained binary image to extract the upper edge contour coordinates of the fabric, and the BP neural network was trained as an input of the BP neural network. The two sets of weights obtained through the training were verified according to the calculation process of the BP neural network, and the method of applying the activation function and the weight of the training combined with the direct calculation was proposed. Applying the fluff fabric detection platform built on the principle of optical imaging, the fabrics processed by four different colors and different fluffing processes were tested. The detection accuracy rate reached 93.02%, and the calculation result of the weight is shown consistent with the actual calculation result of the network. This suggests that the weight of the network training may be used directly for the matrix calculation, which can shorten the actual detection time.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Research on assessment of removing effectiveness of cigarette odor from textiles
      YU Xinchen, CHEN Hong, FANG Yanping, DING Xuemei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  77-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190103006
      Abstract ( 493 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1178KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate the effectiveness of domestic tumble drying on removing the cigarette odor from textiles and enable the development and optimization of textile care products that can refresh textiles, based on the principles and characteristics of laundering methods, an evaluation method on deodorization with the combination of subjective and objective assessment was established. The 6-level intensity method was used for subjective evaluation. The acceptability for cigarette odor was no more than 1 grade. As for the objective evaluation, headspace solid phase micro-extraction and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry was used for testing the concentration of typical substances (L-nicotine, phenol, 4-pyrrolidinopyridine) of cigarette odor. In the meantime, deodorization rate was put forward to indicate the reduction of typical substances. According to the results of case study, both of subjective and objective evaluation method can be utilized to demonstrate the difference of odor concentration, and evaluation results of both methods turned out to be consistent. Therefore, the method with the combination of subjective and objective assessment can be effectively applied for evaluating the performance of laundering method on removing cigarette odor form textiles.

      Ammonium modification of phytic acid and flame retardant finishing of Lyocell fabric
      XU Ailing, WANG Chunmei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  83-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181205006
      Abstract ( 560 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (4675KB) ( 170 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardancy of Lyocell fabrics, the natural phytic acid was ammonium modified, and the dicyandiamide was used as catalyst for flame retardant finishing of Lyocell fabrics. The characteristic groups of phytic acid ammonium were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. By means of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis, vertical burning instrument and limiting oxygen index, the infrared absorption, surface morphology and thermal stability of the finishing Lyocell fabric were determined. The results show that, compared with the unfinished Lyocell fabric, the mass loss rate of endothermic degradation decreases by 20.11%, the amount of carbon increases by 27.98% at 800 ℃. The vertical burning damage length of the finished Lyocell fabric decreases to 3.4 cm, the limiting oxygen index is up to 36.6%, reaching an acceptible flame retardant level. After 20 standard washings, the Lyocell fabrics finished with the flame retardant can still reach the requirements set in standard GB B2.

      Synthesis of polybetaine antibacterial agent and its applications in cotton textiles finishing
      GAO Simeng, WANG Hongbo, DU Jinmei, WANG Wencong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  89-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190307006
      Abstract ( 428 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (5599KB) ( 128 )   Save
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      In order to enhance the antibacterial efficiency of the existing betaine antibacterial agent in cotton fabric finishing, a polysulfonatedbetaine antibacterial finishing agent (PSPB-Am-AGE) was prepared and applied on a cotton fabric for antibacterial property. The effects of temperature, time, amount of initiator, ratio of betaine and acrylamide monomer of synthesizing on the inhibition rate of PSPB-Am-AGE were investigated based on the use of the orthogonal experimental planning method. Counting viable bacteria method was used to test the minimum inhibitory concentration of PSPB-Am-AGE, antimicrobial properties and washing fastness of cotton fabrics after antimicrobial finishing. The optimum conditions for the synthesis are as follows: temperature is 70 ℃, the molar ratio of betaine to acrylamide is 2∶1, the amount of initiator is 2%, and the reaction time is 4 h. The result shows that the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of PSPB-Am-AGE for Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Staphylococcus aureus (S.aureus) is 2.625 g/L. FT-IR and SEM confirmed that PSPB-Am-AGE is synthesized and successfully grafted onto the surface of the cotton fabric. It turned out that the antibacterial rates of the finished fabrics against E.coli and S.aureus are 96.25% and 99.79%. The bacterial reduction rates maintains to be over 90% against both bacteria even after 30 consecutive laundering cycles. The washing fastness test shows that treated cotton is better than that of AAA class antibacterial textiles.

      Preparation of TiO2/MIL-88B(Fe)/polypropylene composite melt-blown nonwovens and study on dye degradation properties
      LIU Yuhao, SUN Hui, WANG Jieqi, YU Bin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  95-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190504808
      Abstract ( 456 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (9798KB) ( 196 )   Save
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      In order to functionalize polypropylene (PP) melt-blown nonwovens and expand their application on water treatment, TiO2/MIL-88B(Fe)/PP composite melt-blown nonwovens were prepared by use of 2,4-terephthalic acid, ferric chloride hexahydrate and nano-titanium oxide as raw materials and PP melt-blown nonwovens as the substrate. PP melt-blown nonwovens was first pretreated by impregnation process. Then, the metal-organic framework TiO2/MIL-88B(Fe) was fixed on the surface of PP melt-blown nonwovens via solvothermal method. The structure and properties of the TiO2/MIL-88B(Fe)/PP composite melt-blown nonwovens were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, X-ray diffraction and aperture analyzer. It is indicated that TiO2/MIL-88B (Fe) was successfully loaded on the surface of PP melt-blown nonwovens substrate. Under visible light irradiation, the degradation rates of the TiO2/MIL-88B(Fe)/PP composite melt-blown nonwovens for methyl blue, acid orange 7, acid red 73 are more than 80%, and especially, its degradation rate for methyl blue could reach 86%, the degradation rate of Rhodamine B also reaches 59%. After 5 cycles of tests, the removal rate of methyl blue by composites is above 70%, the catalytic performance is stable.

      Uniformity of main color-difference formulas based on Sino Color Book
      YANG Hongying, HUI Zhikui, YANG Zhihui, ZHANG Jingjing, XIE Wanzi, ZHOU Jinli
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  103-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181101806
      Abstract ( 397 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3351KB) ( 546 )   Save
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      In order to provide a reference for more suitable color difference formulae for textile industry in trade and quality control, the uniformity of 3 main and 1 newest formulas was studied by utilizing Sino Color Book (SCB) with the largest number of internaterial samples (nearly 20 000) and good visually equidistance, their chromaticity parameters were measured by the X-Rite spectrophotometer, and then more than 30 000 pairs of adjacent color samples in SCB were selected from three directions of hue, chroma and depth, respectively. Their color differences were computed by MatLab programming and their statistic data of average, and CV values and performance factor were analyzed. Results show that different evaluation indexes in different directions exhibit different effect. For the uniformity of the 4 color different formulas: CAM16-UCS is the best, and CIEDE2000(2∶1∶1) is slightly better than CMC(2∶1), and both are obviously better than CIELAB. For the value order of the 4 color differences: CIEDE2000(2∶1∶1) < CMC(2∶1) < CAM16-UCS < CIELAB.

      Apparel Engineering
      Influence of arm angular motion on clothing local thermal insulation
      XIAO Ping, ZHANG Zhaohua, ZHOU Ying, LIU Jiakai, TANG Haoyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  109-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190103306
      Abstract ( 371 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2372KB) ( 140 )   Save
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      To investigate the influence of arm angular motion on local air gap distribution and clothing heat transfer performance, a 3-D scanner was utilized to quantify the local air gap volume and contacting area of 12 body segments of a sweating manikin under six arm postures. An index to describe the activity space of human body was established and the clothing local thermal insulation was measured as well. The results show that the protraction angles of arm are significantly positively correlated with contacting area, but negatively correlated with air gap volume. The activity space of human body is dramatically decreased with the increase of arm protraction angle. The local thermal insulation of body segments displays an uneven distribution state, which body segments with bigger air gap volumes and smaller contacting areas show greater effective thermal insulation. The effective thermal insulation of clothing could be predicted by air gap volume and contacting area proportion.

      Thermal insulation of air inflatable cold protective clothing
      SU Wenzhen, SONG Wenfang, LU Yehu, YANG Xiuyue
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  115-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204405
      Abstract ( 719 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2055KB) ( 325 )   Save
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      In order to maintain outdoor body thermal comfort, cold protective clothing with adjustable thermal insulation property is needed to meet their demand under condition of different activities or ambient temperature changes. Thermal insulating property of air inflatable clothing was evaluated in this study. The total and local thermal insulation of the air inflatable clothing was examined by thermal manikin "Newton" in four air inflating volumes and three air speeds. The results reveal that the local thermal insulation in the chest, abdomen and back as well as the total thermal insulation of upper body are significantly greater in the inflated clothing than in the uninflated clothing, but the air inflation volume has no significant effect on the thermal insulation. Meanwhile, the local and total thermal insulation of the air inflated clothing significantly decreases with the increasing of the air speed, and no significant difference is observed between the clothing with different air inflation volumes. This study shows that air inflatable clothing can be used as an effective strategy to dynamically adjust the clothing thermal insulation.

      Research and development of smart garments for waist muscle injury protection
      LI Cheng'an, LU Hong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  119-124.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190200506
      Abstract ( 410 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (6742KB) ( 338 )   Save
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      In view of the problem that the beginners of the deadlift project are prone to waist muscle damage, this study developed a wearable muscle fatigue detection system enabling the wearer to grasp the fatigue of the erector spinae in real time, thereby avoiding excessive muscle fatigue. Based on the wearable Myoware electromyography (EMG) sensor and the Arduino UNO development board, the system completed the acquisition and calculation of surface electromyography pulse signals and calculated the surface electrical power frequency. The fatigue threshold value of EMG signal was compared to determine whether muscle fatigue was reached. In this paper, 150 Hz was used as the myoelectric fatigue threshold of the target group by measuring the change data of muscle electrical signals during the deadlift exercise of four male college students. This topic fully considers the wear ability of each electronic module and the wash ability of the sports tights. The detachable organ bag is used as a carrier to realize the combination of the electronic module and the sports tights.

      Balancing optimization of garment sewing assembly line based on genetic algorithm
      ZHANG Xujing, WANG Lichuan, CHEN Yan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  125-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190104905
      Abstract ( 509 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1167KB) ( 265 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of efficiency loss caused by the imbalance of the garment sewing assembly line, an optimization goal was established to minimize the balance loss rate. The genetic algorithm was used to obtain the result. The men's shirt assembly lines of three kind of workstation layouts (the order of processes, the type of machines and the components of garment) were taken as examples for application. The results show that there are 14 workstations in the assembly lines where the workstations are arranged according to the processes and machines. There are 15 workstations in the assembly line that the workstations are arranged according to the garment components. And the number of operators and machines required are more than the other two kinds of workstation layouts. The time loss rate of the workstations arranged according to the processes is 8.74%. The time loss rate of the workstations arranged according to the machines is 11.79%. And the time loss rate of the workstations arranged according to the garment components is 20.32%, but it is still higher than the lowest line of the enterprise. It can be seen from the simulation model that the optimized assembly lines of three workstation layouts can be applied to actual production, which can effectively reduce the production cost of the enterprise.

      Effect of heating area of electric heating socks on foot temperature
      LIU Yongmei, XIAO Ping, FAN Yawen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  130-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181005306
      Abstract ( 472 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1688KB) ( 126 )   Save
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      In order to explore the effect of different heating areas of electric heating socks on the warming of the foot, the foot/sock area was divided according to the physiological characteristics of the foot and the structural characteristics of the socks. Three areas including the front instep, the front of the sole and the middle of the sole were selected as the heating area, and six socks with the single heating area and double heating areas were designed. The infrared camera and Laser-Doppber Flowmetry(LDF) were used to detect the temperature change and blood perfusion of the surface of each area when the foot was wearing different styles of electric heating socks, and the effect of warming the foot was quantified. Experiments show that although the styles of electric heating socks are different, they all have the effect of keeping warm. The temperature rise in the foot area corresponding to the heat-generating sheet is the most obvious, followed by the adjacent area. The single heating area has little effect on the microcirculation of foot blood vessels, and the combination of sole heating is better than the combination of the front instep and the sole in the double region.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Vibration model of elastically-supported axially moving guide bar
      SU Liuyuan, MENG Zhuo, WNAG Yacheng, GE Xiaoyi, ZHANG Yujing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190102907
      Abstract ( 285 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2377KB) ( 49 )   Save
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      Aiming at the friction problem between guide needle and latch needle caused by the bending vibration of guide bars in a warp knitting machine, the vibration model of the thread guide bar was established from static and dynamic perspectives based on the continuous beam theory. The vibration equation of the guide bar was obtained by energy method, and the characteristics equation and mode function were built based on the boundary conditions and continuity conditions. In the case of static loading, the effects of materials and support stiffness on the frequencies and mode shapes were investigated. When the dynamical loading was considered, the effects of axial velocity, acceleration, and the transverse time on the natural frequencies were evaluated. The study shows that the influences of the materials and support stiffness are significant, while the influences of the velocity, acceleration, and transverse time are small, which provide reference for reducing the bending vibration of guide bar and optimizing the guide bar shogging system in the warp knitting machine.

      Optimal sliding mode control of electronic transverse servo for comb bar of warp knitting machine
      WANG Jiandong, XIA Fenglin, LI Yalin, ZHAO Yuning
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  143-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190408806
      Abstract ( 280 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1356KB) ( 58 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that the warp knitting electronic traverse system is easy to be interfered by external mechanical vibration and other factors, the electric drive mechanism and mechanical drive structure are modeled, according to the warp knitting machine transverse control principle, and the spatial mathematical model of the warp knitting electronic transverse system was constructed based on the input-output relationship. Using the performance index of linear optimal control theory and sliding mode control theory, the optimal sliding mode control method for warp knitting electronic transversal motion system was designed. Through MatLab simulation, the results show that when there is no external interference, the optimal sliding mode control has good dynamic and static performance. When there is disturbance outside the servo system, the optimal sliding mode control can overcome the disturbance within a limited time. By comparing the reference model, the accuracy and stability of the optimal sliding mode control are verified in the simulation of unit step response.

      Research and implementation of information model for textile intelligent dyeing and finishing workshop based on OPC UA
      LI Feng, ZHANG Kun, YUAN Li'na
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203706
      Abstract ( 459 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2718KB) ( 198 )   Save
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      In order to establish a system of intelligent dyeing and finishing workshop in textile dyeing and finishing industry, an information system modeling scheme based on OPC UA was proposed. Taking the flat continuous production workshop as an example, the "dyeing and finishing equipment type" and "monitoring unit type" were abstracted on the basis of analyzing the physical model of the key equipment, which were used to define the common attributes, control methods of the equipment and monitoring unit, and unique properties through the private properties of various devices. The model definition fully complies with the OPC UA international standard, enabling the device to provide standardized services to the outside, presenting a unified interface and communication protocal, and achieving interconnection and interoperability between devices and systems. On the basis of establishing the equipment model, the logical model and overall architecture of the textile intelligent dyeing and finishing workshop were built. The data communication between the equipment end and the manufacturing execution system was implemented by using the OPC UA communication protocol. The model and workshop architecture have been applied in actual production, providing important references to use of OPC UA technology in the whole textile industry.

      Comprehensive Review
      Recent progress in differentiated polyacrylonitrile fiber and their applications in environmental purification
      LI Fu, LIU Shuqiang, FEI Pengfei, ZHANG Man, WU Gaihong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  155-164.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190306210
      Abstract ( 476 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2237KB) ( 557 )   Save
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      In order to expand the application scope and depth of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fibrous materials in industrial textiles, several differentiated treatments of PAN fibers including physical modification, chemical modification, cross-section differentiated and nano-sized were introduced in this present work. These methods work to remove harmful substances from water, air and soil by adsorption, oxidation-reduction, interception and other ways making use of the structural characteristics of materials or functional groups introduced. Moreover, the application progress of differentiated PAN fibers in the three environmental purification fields was also reviewed including water purification by seawater desalination, oil-water separation and organic pollutant removal. Air purification by particulate and harmful gas filtration, and gas-liquid separation as well as soil purification. The review indicates that the green production of PAN fibers and the green differentiation of waste PAN fibers are regarded as the main directions to promote the development of differentiated PAN fibrous materials in industrial textiles in the future.

      Research progress of electrospun nanofiber yarns
      LIU Yujian, TAN Jing, CHEN Mingjun, YU Shaoyang, LI Haoyi, YANG Weimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  165-171.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190100507
      Abstract ( 721 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (1421KB) ( 474 )   Save
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      In order to expand the application field of electrospinning nanofibers and improve the mechanical properties of electrospinning nanofibers, the recent research progress of electrospinning nanofibers yarns at home and abroad was reviewed. According to the different twisting methods, the fiber twisting methods are divided into flow field twisting, electric field twisting and mechanical twisting. Several twisting methods are introduced in detail, and the yarn performance parameters and the advantages and disadvantages of these methods are compared. The influence of electrospinning process parameters on the yarn mechanical properties is discussed, and several methods to improve the mechanical properties of nanofiber yarns are introduced. The applications of electrospinning nanofibers yarn in intelligent fabrics, bioengineering and electronic devices are summarized. Finally, the problems existing in electrospinning nanofibers yarn and the future development trend are prospected.

      Research progress on theoretical models of mechanisms of fuzzing and pilling
      XIAO Qi, WANG Rui, SUN Hongyu, FANG Shu, LI Danyang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  172-178.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190100107
      Abstract ( 433 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1299KB) ( 90 )   Save
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      Aiming at the understanding of fabric pilling mechanisms, modeling conditions, theoretical principles and applied ranges of 4 types of models, based on kinetics of chemical reaction, mechanical dynamics, artificial neural network, and fiber shape scale theory model, for fabric pilling mechanisms were reviewed and discussed, with a focus on the trend on research in fabric pilling mechanisms. It is realized that some unknown parameters will have to be solved in order to use the chemical reaction kinetic model, and that the mechanical dynamics model requires complicated calculation despite high precision. A large number of training samples are required to enhance the generalization ability when using the artificial neural network model, and the mechanism of pilling cannot be quantified in the fiber scale model though the practical application is feasible. In conclusion, the review suggested that the accuracy of models and methods of solving the unknown parameters should be improved in the future. Fractal mathematics, computer simulation, finite element and other techniques should be applied to the study of geometrical nonlinear deformation of single fibers in the pilling process from the microscopic perspective to facilitate a new theoretical model. At the same time, the practical application ability of the model should be improved.

      Research progress of graphene durable finishing of textiles
      CHANG Shuo, SHEN Jiajia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  179-186.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180900608
      Abstract ( 522 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1224KB) ( 189 )   Save
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      With the aim to apply graphene in the functional finishing of textiles, the comprehensive review on the diverse functionalities of textiles and the corresponding mechanism was carried out, such functionalities as electrical conductivity, UV protection, hydrophobicity, anti-bacteria, and flame retardancy. The approaches used to achieve permanent finishing of textiles with graphene or its derivatives were reviewed in details, such as exhaustion, dip-pad-dry, with the help of adhesives, vacuum filtration deposition, sol-gel, and layer-by-layer assembly. To improve durability of the obtained functional fabrics, the precise regulation of graphene or its derivatives, pretreatment of fabric and the rational use of the characteristics of fibers were effective paths. Finally, the prospect towards industrialization of the textiles functional finishing with graphene was forecasted and several related suggestion was proposed.

      Research progress on new bio-antibacterial agents for textiles
      GAO Xue, LI Zheng, GONG Jixian, LI Qiujin, LI Fengyan, ZHANG Jianfei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(02):  187-192.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190304706
      Abstract ( 431 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1227KB) ( 423 )   Save
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      In order to gain a deeper understanding of the current research progress of bio-based antibacterial finishing agents, this paper introduces the antibacterial mechanisms and performance characteristics of several microbial-based antibacterial finishing agents, including ε-polylysine and prodigiosin, animal-based antibacterial finishing agent complex chitosan, modified chitosan and nano-chitosan and various types of plant-based antibacterial finishing agents. In particular, three types of antibacterial finishing agents used in treating textiles were introduced together with the latest research progress worldwide, and the antibacterial effect of the products and the performance advantages were compared with the traditional antibacterial finishing agent for textiles. Problems associated with these new bio-based antibacterial finishing agents were identified and trend for future development was indicated.