Table of Content

15 March 2020, Volume 41 Issue 03

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Fiber Materials

Carbodiimide/hydroxysuccinimide crosslinking modification and properties of collagen fibers

YUE Chengfei, DING Changkun, LI Lu, CHENG Bowen

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190401407

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In order to deal with problems in poor mechanical properties and water-dissolving, a collagen fiber prepared from bovine tendon type I collagen via wet spinning method process was modified by 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylpropys carbodiimide/N-hydroxysuccinimide)(EDC/NHS) crosslinking. The optimal reaction time and crosslinking concentration of EDC/NHS in the in-situ crosslinking mode were explored, and the effects of two crosslinking methods of in-situ crosslinking and bath crosslinking on the properties of collagen fibers were compared. The results show that in-situ crosslinking can significantly improve the performance of collagen fibers. The optimum crosslinking time and crosslinker concentration of in-situ crosslinking are 11 h and 15%, respectively. In this situation, the fiber breaking strength reached about 1.44 cN/dtex, which is 35.8% higher than that of the pure collagen fiber and 19.0% higher than that of bath crosslinked fiber. Compared with crosslinking baths that the crosslinking reaction mainly occur on the fiber surface, and in-situ crosslinking makes the microfibrous structure inside the fiber denser and the performance is improved more obviously. Furthermore, the performance of in-situ crosslinked collagen fibers is better than that of bath crosslinked collagen fibers.

Effect of supercritical CO₂ treatment temperature on structure and property of diacetate fiber

ZHU Weiwei, CAI Chong, ZHANG Cong, LONG Jiajie, SHI Meiwu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  8-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190302507

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In order to develop applications of supercritical CO₂ technology in processing diacetate fibers, supercritical CO₂ treatment to diacetate fibers at different temperatures was carried out. The fiber surface morphology,chemical structure, aggregation structure, thermal degradation property, thermal stability and tensile strength were investigated respectively by scanning electron microscope technology, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimetry and universal strength tester. The results indicate that the crystallinity of diacetate fibers decrease from 39.41% to 32.43%, 31.57% and 32.16% respectively under different treatment temperatures(80, 100, 120 ℃). When the temperature is 120 ℃ some hydrogen bonds in diacetate fibers are destroyed, and the thermal resistance and thermal stability of diacetate fibers decrease slightly, but the surface morphology and chemical structure of diacetate fibers are virtually unchanged, and tensile strength remains to be about 3.20 cN.

Preparation and properties of flame-retardant viscose fiber/dithiopyrophosphate incorporated with graphene oxide

MA Junzhi, WANG Dong, FU Shaohai

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  15-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190408306

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To improve the flame-retardant and mechanical properties of viscose fiber/bisneopentyl glycol dithiopyrophosphate (VF/DDPS), graphene oxide (GO) was incorporated into VF/DDPS matrix as synergistic flame retardant to prepare VF/DDPS/GO composite fiber through wetting spinning. Using thermogravimetry, limiting oxygen index tester, microscale combustion calorimeter and single fiber tensile tester as performance indices, the effect of GO on the thermal, flame-retardant and mechanical properties of VF/DDPS composite fiber were studied. The results show that compared to VF/DDPS, when incorporating 2.0% GO, the char residues of VF/DDPS/GO composite fiber increases from 20.0% to 29.7%, limiting oxygen index rises from 27.8% to 29.1%, peak heat release rate decreases from 141.5 to 99.4 W/g and dry/wet breaking strength increases from 2.08,0.96 cN/dtex to 2.20,1.17 cN/dtex. It is concluded that GO could enhance the graphitic degree and compactness of char residues, which strengthens the barrier action of heat and mass.

Preparation and properties of polyacrylonitrile/polyurethane transparent film

LI Guoqing, LI Pingping, LIU Hanlin, LI Ni

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  20-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190406406

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This research aims to improve the mechanical properties of polyacrylonitrile/polyurethane(PAN/PU)nanofiber transparent membrane. During electrospinning, rotating drum was used as collector. Transparent PU film reinforced by PAN nanofibers (PANNFs/PU film)were prepared by following heating treatment. The morphology,structure and mechanical properties of the films were characterized by scanning electron microscope, infrared spectrometer, multifunctional stretcher. The results show that the fiber arrangement in PAN/PU films along the drum rotating direction becomes obvious with the increase of drum rotating speed. The mechanical properties of PANNFs/PU film are improved significantly through heat treatment. When the rotating speed is 1 500 r/min, the breaking stress of the PAN/PU membrane along the drum rotating direction is 103.3 MPa, and that of the PANNFs-PU film along the drum rotating direction reaches 306.8 MPa coupled with a high breaking strain of 163.1%. Compared with PAN/PU porous membrane, the mechanical properties of PANNFs/PU transparent membrane are significantly improved.

Preparation and piezoelectric properties of polyacrylonitrile/sodium nitrate nanofiber membrane

WU Heng, JIN Xin, WANG Wenyu, ZHU Zhengtao, LIN Tong, NIU Jiarong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  26-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190202707

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In order to improve the piezoelectric properties of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fiber membranes, sodium nitrate (NaNO₃) was doped into PAN, and PAN/NaNO₃ fiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning. The effects of NaNO₃ content and spinning speed on piezoelectric properties of the electrospun PAN fiber membranes were investigated. The surface morphology, conformation and piezoelectric properties of PAN/NaNO₃ fiber membranes were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, electret nonwoven piezoelectric performance testing system and piezoelectric tester. The results show that doping NaNO₃ into PAN can increase the planar zigzag conformation content and decrease the crystal plane spacing, thus affecting the piezoelectric properties of PAN fiber membranes. In particular, when the doping amount of NaNO₃ is 0.9% and the spinning speed is 1 000 mm/s, the piezoelectric properties of fiber membranes are improved notably. At the same time, the planar sawtooth conformation content of PAN/NaNO₃ fiber membrane is the highest and crystal plane spacing is the smallest. The piezoelectric voltage and current of this PAN fiber membrane are increased by 40% and 174.53% respectively.

Preparation and characterization of nanocellulose aerogel modified by silane coupling agent

WANG Shixian, JIANG Shuai, LI Mengmeng, LIU Lifang, ZHANG Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  33-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181206506

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In order to study the influence of silane coupling agent content on the performance of nanocellulose aerogel, two silane coupling agents, aminopropyl triethoxysilane (KH-550) and methyl trimethoxysilane (MTMS), were selected to modify nanocellulose (CNF) aerogel. Characterization tests were carried out by scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analyzer, universal strength machine and thermal constant analyzer. The results show that the addition of silane coupling agent results in the peak of silicon content in the modified aerogels, but does not change the composition of aerogels. The porosity of K-CNF aerogels and M-CNF aerogels increase significantly in comparison with the unmodified aerogels. When the addition ratio of MTMS is 1∶2, the optimal compression strength of the modified aerogels reaches 7.25 kPa, and the addition of MTMS improves the hydrophobicity of the modified aerogels with a contact angle of 156°. With the addition of KH-550, the thermal conductivity of aerogels first decreases and then increases. With the addition of MTMS, the thermal conductivity of aerogels decreases gradually.

Textile Engineering

Simulation and analysis of trajectory of fibers in a four-roller compact spinning system

QIAN Cheng, LIU Yanqing, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping, SU Xuzhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190304207

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In order to simulate the trajectory of fibers in four-roller compact spinning, the critical components of four-roller compact spinning were measured to build a physical model. Fluent16 which can calculate the flow field was used to acquire the airflow distribution in the aggregation region. The dynamic model of fiber was established by infinitesimal method, and MatLab was used to edit the dynamic equation to simulate the trajectory of a single fiber under different conditions. The results show that the fibers at the entrance of aggregation region are compacted and output to the center. The track of single fiber is regular, but the displacement of the fiber in the intermediate micro-element period is random. The fibers hold together under the action of airflow force and friction. With the increase of the negative pressure value, the fibers hold together more tightly; but when the negative pressure is too high, the internal and external transfer of fibers is weakened, thus weakening the cohesive force among the fibers.

Elastic and electrical properties of stainless steel fiber/cotton blended spandex wrap yarn

ZHAO Yaru, XIAO Hong, CHEN Jianying

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  45-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190406506

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In order to develop electromagnetic functional yarns with both elastic and electrical properties, a series of elastic stainless steel fiber/cotton ammonia yarns were developed with spandex as the core yarn and wrapped with stainless steel fiber/cotton blended yarn. On the Instron 5566 tester, combined with a multimeter, the stress-strain, strain-resistance and elongational elastic recovery curves of the elastic yarn were obtained, and the electrical properties of the yarn under different tensile conditions were investigated. The results show that the addition of spandex yarn improves the elastic properties of stainless steel fiber/cotton blended yarn, but the spandex core yarn would fracture easily. When the content of stainless steel short fiber increases, the elastic elongation and recovery properties of elastic yarn decrease, and plastic deformation increases. The strain increases of the elastic yarn, causes the electrical resistance of the stainless steel fiber/cotton ammonia yarn to increase first and then decreases until the yarn breaks, and the maximum value of the resistance occurs when the spandex filament is straight but not elongated.

Yarn tension fluctuation on high-speed warp knitting machine

SUN Shuai, MIAO Xuhong, ZHANG Qi, WANG Jin

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  51-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190300905

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In order to achieve better control over yarn tension during high speed warp knitting production, systematic experiments were carried out on HKS2-SE high speed warp knitting machine. Measuring the yarn tension under 1 000 r/min to 4 000 r/min, yarn tension levels were evaluated with the maximum, average and standard deviation. The dynamic tension curve, probability density curve, skewness and kurtosis of the single-cycle yarn were used to analyze the tension distribution and the fluctuation of the yarn tension. With the increase of machine speed, the maximum, average and standard deviation of yarn tension is found to decrease gradually, with the tension variation among the yarns becoming smaller and the overall yarn knitting tension declining. At the same time, it is witnessed that the height of the main wave peak of single cycle tension curve decreases with smaller fluctuation of yarn tension, while the fluctuation of yarn tension tends to increase when the machine speed is set too high or too low. When the machine speed is between 2 500 r/min and 3 500 r/min, the data distribution is closer to the average value of tension distribution curve, and the yarn tension become more stable.

Electric conduction and resistance theory model of circular weft knitted electrodes

ZHANG Jiahui, WANG Jianping

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  56-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190405906

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In order to provide theoretical guidance for designing leggings with circular weft-knitted electrodes, based on the loop structure of knitted fabrics, a theoretical model of resistance module was established, with 2 types of conductive materials, 3 knitted structures and 4 electrode sizes, totaling 24 leggings. The leggings were knitted and treated by heat setting to analyze the electric conduction of knitted electrode, for exploring the influence of different factors on the electric conduction of knitted electrodes and establishing a linear fitting resistance model of knitted electrodes. The results show that different factors have significant influence on the conductivity of flexible electrodes, among which conductive material has the most significant influence. Heat setting has little effect on the electric conduction of flexible electrodes knitted by silver plated yarn therefore it can be used as the material for flexible knitted electrodes that need to be heat-set. The theoretical model of resistance module can be used to analyze and predict quantitatively the resistance of the knitted electrodes.

Grayscale simulation characteristics of jacquard fabric with cluster-dotted structure

ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  62-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190401306

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In order to determine the grayscaling for black and white single-layer jacquard fabric in simulation with specific brightness tone image, a design method using the cluster-dotted method for image processing was proposed. Adopting three different brightness tone images as the simulation objects, the jacquard fabric samples were produced based on six screen frequency parameters and two float binding methods. According to the comparative analysis of the color characteristics of the original images and the figured fabrics, the results show that the high, medium and low brightness toned images are suitable for the ruling number of halftone screen that are 24, 14 and 10 lines/cm, and the local float blinding method can improve the lightness contrast of the fabric image with the cluster-dotted structure. In both mean and variance of the gray values,the cluster-dotted jacquard fabric images are closer to the original images than the shaded weave fabric images, demonstrating more stable grayscale simulation performance.

Structural design and finite element analysis of landing gearwith leaf spring made of 3-D woven composite

WANG Xianghua, CHENG Ling, ZHANG Yifan, PENG Haifeng, HUANG Zhiwen, LIU Xiaozhi

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  68-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190602610

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In order to achieve the weight reduction of the helicopter leaf spring landing gear and improve the inter-layer shear performance, a carbon fiber 3-D woven structure was adopted to prepare integrally the composite landing gear. According to the design requirements of the landing gear, the 3-D mechanical analysis model of the leaf spring landing gear was established by force analysis and theoretical calculation. Through the material experiment and theoretical calculation, the material engineering constants required for the finite element calculation were obtained. Combined with the maximum stress-strain criterion, the finite element method was used to simulate the quasi-static loading of the leaf spring, the leaf spring section and axis geometry, and the length and thickness values of the variable cross-section. The results show that based on the twill 2.5-D woven composite structure, the circular arc-shaped and rectangular-section leaf spring with a section width of 120 mm and a thickness of 24 mm meets the deflection requirement while the strain is less than the allowable strain value of the material. Based on the preferred cross-section, when the thickening length is 760 mm and the thickening thickness is 36 mm, the composite landing gear not only can meet the design requirements of deflection and strength, but also the weight loss reached about 30% compared to the spring structure of 4340 steel currently used for aviation applications.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Influence of extreme hydrophobic dye structure on dyeing properties of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene fibers

WANG Xiaochun, ZHANG Jianfei, ZHANG Liping, WANG Nana, YAN Jinlong, ZHAO Guoliang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  78-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190800606

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In order to solve the dyeing problem of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers, the dyes with extreme hydrophobicity and good planarity were selected. The influence of dye structure on dyeing properties of UHMWPE fibers was studied by the determination of the K/S value of dyed fibers and the thermodynamic parameters such as the affinity, the partition coefficient, enthalpy change and entropy change between dyes and fibers. The number and chain length of hydrophobic groups, the polar groups such as nitro group and solubility parameter of hydrophobic dyes were analyzed. The results show that extreme hydrophobic dyes have satisfactory color depth on UHMWPE fibers. The hydrophobicity and solubility parameter of dyes are important factors affecting the dyeing properties of UHMWPE fiber. Azo-structured dyes are easier to obtain better dyeing performance for UHMWPE fiber than anthraquinone-structured dyes.

Layout optimization of dip dyeing workshop based on system layout planning-genetic algorithm

HUANG Qi, ZHOU Qihong, ZHANG Qian, WANG Shaozong, FAN Wei, SUN Huifeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  84-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190601907

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Unreasonable workshop layout and low automation level are primary factors affecting the efficiency of dip dyeing yarns, leading to increased material handling, shipping back of transportation routes, and inefficient production. In this study, a new automatic dyeing process was developed on the basis of the analysis of traditional dyeing process and logistics intensity. A new method based on improved genetic algorithm (GA) and system layout planning (SLP) was presented to solve the layout of dip dyeing workshop with the intensity of logistics and workshop area for establishing the objective function. The layout simulation was carried out using a plant simulation platform, which performed the dynamic planning and calculation of logistics intensity of the production line layout. Simulation results show that SLP-GA rapidly converged and is more effective than SLP. However, SLP-GA is approximately 10% lower than SLP on average in terms of logistics intensity. By implementing a dyeing and finishing enterprise under the constraints of process, this study provides a reasonable layout plan for developing intelligent dyeing and finishing demonstration production line that can achieve the lowest logistics cost and the smallest floor area.

Influence of physical property of reactive ink fluid on jetting behavior

HOU Xueni, CHEN Guoqiang, XING Tieling

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  91-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190501809

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In order to study the effect of reactive ink fluid properties, polymer and surfactant on the ink jet formation process and the ink drops parameters, reactive red inks with different levels of viscosity, different surface tension, different molecular weight polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and different surfactants were prepared. The formation process and flight trajectory of ink jet was observed and the parameters such as the length of ligament, breaking time of ink droplets, oblique angle, ink drop velocity and volume were calculated and analyzed using the drop observation system. The results show that with the increased the ink viscosity, the breaking time of the ink droplet demonstrated an obvious increase, and decreases in the velocity and volume of the ink droplet. The increase of viscosity is beneficial to inhibit the formation of ink droplets, but viscosity greater than 4.56 mPa·s will affect the smoothness of injection. Surface tension greater than 49.1 mN/m is not beneficial to the formation of ink droplets leading to oblique spray. Compared to the use of PVP-K15 and PVP-K30, the addition of PVP-K60 causes the droplet to retract in the jet and fail to form a droplet.

Flame-retardant finishing of polyester fabrics by grafting phosphorus-nitrogen compounds

DING Fang, REN Xuehong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  100-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181004906

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In order to synchronously realize low toxicity and flame retardant properties of polyester fabrics, an environmentally friendly flame retardant, diethyl methacryloylphosphoramidate (DMPP) was synthesized through the reaction of diethyl chlorophosphate and methacrylamide. The synthesized flame retardant was grafted on PET fabrics by impregnation method. The influence of the quantity of the initiator potassium persulfate and impregnating time on the properties of the grafted fabrics were studied. The optimum finishing process was found to be as follows: the immersing time was 3 h, the initiator concentration was 3%. The tests showed that the flame retardant was grafted onto the surface of PET fabrics. After combustion, the char length of the grafted fabrics decreased from 30 cm to 7.7 cm, the limiting oxygen index increased to 28.7% and was still 27.4% after washing 10 times. The strength loss of the grafted fabrics was limited to 5% and met the apparel fabric standards.

Effect of shear thickening fluid on quasi-static stab resistance of aramid-based soft armor materials

LI Danyang, WANG Rui, LIU Xing, ZHANG Shujie, XIA Zhaopeng, YAN Ruosi, DAI Erqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  106-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190506107

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In order to achieve the lightweight of stab-resistance fabric with improved wearability, shear thickening fluid (STF) was used to impregnate the aramid fabrics with different structures to fabricate the flexible body armor and the influence of different structures on the stab resistance of STF/aramid fabrics was investigated. The rheological property of STF, the morphology, yarn pull-out force and spike and knife stabbing performance of STF/aramid fabrics were characterized by Malvin rotational rheometer, scanning electron microscopy and tensile tester. The results indicate that the shear thickening behavior increases with the mass fraction of dispersion phase increasing. The STF impregnated fabric has significantly improved the stab resistance performance, and the STF/plain-fabric with high warp and weft density exhibits better spike and knife stab performance with the maximum spike and knife stab resistance forces reaching 993.75 N and 687.50 N respectively. Because the shear thickening effect can effectively hinder yarn slippage and the yarn friction increases as the number of fabric crossover points increasing. Moreover, the knife stab performance of STF/twill-fabric is most noticeably enhanced by 387% because the longer floating line can resist the cutting action of the knife blade.

Preparation and properties of polypyrrole/silver conductive polyester fabrics

LIN Jiameng, WAN Ailan, MIAO Xuhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  113-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190301105

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In order to expand the application of polypyrrole/silver (PPy/Ag) conductive polyester fabrics, PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabrics were prepared by one-pot method with silver nitrate as oxidant under the condition of plasma pretreatment. The conductive fabrics were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy. The square resistance of conductive fabrics was measured by resistometer and the bacteriostatic effect was tested by agar plate method. The results show that the PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabrics prepared in this study have good conductivity, and have obvious inhibitory effect on Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. The conductivity of such fabrics is positively correlated with the number of times of plasma pretreatment to polyester fabrics, and the square resistance of conductive fabrics reaches the minimum value of 0.22 kΩ/□ when the number of plasma pretreatment is 4.

Apparel Engineering

Design of temperature-sensitive garment consisting of full fabric sensing networks

CHEN Hui, WANG Xi, DING Xin, LI Qiao

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  118-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190305007

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In order to realize real-time monitoring of human skin temperature, this research aims to create temperature-sensitive garment with a full fabric sensing network, making use of the differences in skin temperature distribution of different parts of the human body and the requirements for repeatability and comfort of temperature-sensitive clothing, on the basis of in-depth study of existing monitoring techniques. The array arrangement model of regional sensor network and the design method of data acquisition and storage system finally prepare the temperature-sensitive clothing based on the full fabric sensing network. It is proved that the whole fabric temperature-sensing network offers high stability after tensile recovery of the fabric. By testing the temperature sensitivity of temperature-sensitive clothing and evaluating its repeatability and comfort, it demonstrated high sensitivity and good practicability. The portable data acquisition and storage system was developed through comprehensive comparison of practicability between different data acquisition modules. Finally, combined with the data acquisition system, monitoring of the human skin temperature is succeeded in real time using the temperature sensitive clothing. It is proved that the breathing state of the human body can be tracked through the curve of the human body temperature, and the comfort requirement is satisfied.

Design and evaluation of cooling clothing by phase change materials for miners

ZHENG Qing, WANG Hongfu, KE Ying, LI Shuang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  124-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190404106

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In order to migrate heat strain on underground mining workers, this paper introduces the development of a set of cooling clothing making use of phase change materials (PCMs) working in a simulated environment of temperature 30 ℃, relative humidity 80%. In human trials, skin temperatures and perceptual responses of thermal and wetness sensation from the subjects were acquired to evaluate the cooling effect of the PCM cooling clothing. The research shows that wearing the PCM cooling clothing is able to reduce significantly the local skin temperature, the average skin temperature and the torso temperature. Discrete cooling effects at different body sites were captured: the local skin temperature saw the largest decrease at the lower back and abdomen, and the cooling duration was the shortest at the thigh; the average skin temperature and the average torso temperature had a maximum decline of about 0.91 ℃ and 1.70 ℃, respectively; subjective hot sensation declined and thermal comfort sensation improved, but the wetness sensation remained almost the same. The research indicates that the PCM cooling clothing can effectively mitigate the heat strain on miners.

Effect of sports bra on breast displacement amplitude during running

ZHENG Jingjing, ZHAO Qingyao, YAN Yuxiu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  130-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190403506

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Aimed to investigate the shock-proof effect of women's sports bra and its wearing comfort, this study experimented on 7 types of sports bras made from the same fabric with similar size and thickness. With the help of 3-D motion capturing instrument, data on chest movements in bare chest as well as in running wearing of different sports bra were collected. According to the extreme difference of displacement amplitude of the breast relative to the trunk along with the percentage reduction in breast displacement before and after wearing, SPSS software was used for mathematical statistics to compare the shock-proof effect of sports bras, along with the subjective experiments to make comprehensive analysis. Suggestions are put forward to improve the modeling design of sports bra, which provides reference to the bra manufacturers for the development and production of sports bras. The result shows that the bras with crossover back design has the best shock-proof effect. On the other hand,widening the shoulder belts can reduce the pressure on the shoulder and improve the level of comfort.

Customer perceived value evaluation method of men's shirts customization under internet environment

YU Xinhe, WANG Jianping

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190306707

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In order to build a customer perceived value evaluation scale for online clothing customization, a scale with 19 items was established through pre-experiment based on literature research, combined with the characteristics of clothing customization and Internet distribution. The data of 369 valid questionnaires collected by intentional sampling were processed, and four key dimensions of customer perceived value for men's shirt were obtained through factor analysis: personalized demand, online service, social demand and product quality, among which the personalized demand is the most important. In order to test consumers' comprehensive attitude to the scale, multi-level fuzzy comprehensive evaluations were carried out by using the principle of fuzzy transformation and maximum membership degree. The results show that the four-dimensional scale established in this research can be used to evaluate the perceived value of customers on men's shirt online, and has the highest degree of recognition for the two dimensions i.e. personalized demand and product quality.

Optimization of apparel material distribution route based on carbon emission

ZHANG Xujing, WANG Lichuan, CHEN Yan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  143-147.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190302305

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In order to reduce the carbon emission in the distribution process of garment materials, and solving problems in route planning and the determining the number of workers in the material distribution process, a multi-objective optimization with minimum carbon emissions and minimum number of vehicles was proposed. A men's shirt production line with three types of floor planning according to process flow, machine type and clothing parts, was taken as an example. A multi-objective optimization model of material distribution path was established, and the NSGA-II algorithm is used to solve the problem. The results show that all three floor layouts require 4 operators to distribute. By comparison, the total distance of material distribution according to the type of machines is 2 979 m, and the carbon emission was also the least, which is 0.157 kgCO₂e. The total distance and the carbon emission of material distribution in the garment components layout are the most. The feasibility of the model and algorithm are validated through experiment, and a variety of material distribution models for apparel manufacturers are proposed based on this research.

Machinery & Accessories

Vibration damping mechanism and vibration characteristics of spindle tubes

MO Shuai, FENG Zhanyong, DANG Heyu, ZOU Zhenxing, WANG Diwen, ZHU Hongwei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  148-153.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203106

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In order to explore the damping mechanism of the elastic spindle tube, the spiral groove of the damping tube was assumed to be a rectangular spring in this research. The mathematical model for the bending stiffness and vibration amplitude at the bottom of the tube was established, and the influence of key parameters of the bending stiffness and vibration performance was studied using the MatLab software. The results show that when the groove width and the number of turns are increased, the bending stiffness decreases and vibration amplitude of the vibration of the elastic tube increases. With the increase of wall thickness, pitch, helix angle and elastic modulus, stiffness increases amplitude decreases. Combined with results obtained from finite element simulation and modal test, the natural frequencies of the elastic tubes are obtained, which indicates that the resonance frequency range is consistent with the spindles, and the working frequency effectively avoids the resonance frequency.

Modeling and simulation of contact force generated by beating-up cam in rapier looms

WEI Zhan, JIN Guoguang, LI Bo, SONG Yanyan, LU Chunhui

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  154-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190605106

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Aiming at the difficulty in modeling the contact force generated by the beating-up cam in rapier looms, this paper reports on a convenient and effective method for simulating the contact force. Based on the L-N contact-impact model and the existing mixed model of contact-impact force, the contact-impact force model suitable for the beating-up cam system is improved and established, which helps solve the impact force and deformation. The transient impact analysis software ANSYS/LS-DYNA and the visualization software LS-PrePost are used to simulate and verify the calculation results of the model. After validating the modelling results, the influence of the initial impact velocity and the curvature radius of the impact point on the impact force and deformation is calculated respectively. The results show that both the initial impact velocity and the radius of cam curvature have notable influence on the dynamic response of the impact process, with the initial impact velocity having more obvious influence on the impact force and the deformation of the system.

Method for position detection of cheese yarn rod

WANG Wensheng, LI Tianjian, RAN Yuchen, LU Ying, HUANG Min

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  160-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190601308

Abstract ( 307 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (3216KB) ( 89 )   Save

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In order to improve the detection accuracy of cheese yarn packages and to reduce wear to the package rods, an improved frequency-tuned salient (FT) significance detection algorithm is proposed to detect the cheese yarn rod position. Firstly, making use of the characteristics of the metal surface reflection of yarn rods head and the farther distance of the yarn rods from the bottom surface, the local illumination of the ring light source was applied to improve the target and background contrast. Then, using a priori knowledge of the target located near the center of the image, a block weighting template was designed to improve the FT algorithm and calculate the image saliency. The maximum between-class variance method (OTSU) automatic threshold segmentation was performed on the salient image to obtain the binary image. Then, the region which was obviously not the target is removed by morphological filtration. Finally, the coordinates of the final yarn rods head position were obtained by Hough transform circular fitting. The field experiment and comparison algorithm show that the improved method has the ability to resist defects. In addition, it has the ability to resist light changes and can be applied to the daytime and nighttime lighting scenes of the factory.

Comprehensive Review

Preparation technology and research status of nonwoven filtration materials for individual protective masks

ZHANG Xing, LIU Jinxin, ZHANG Haifeng, WANG Yuxiao, JIN Xiangyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  168-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200200507

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In order to gain a deeper understanding of the current research status of the nonwoven filtration materials for protective masks, this paper introduced the application foundation and processing technologies of several nonwoven filtration materials, including spunbond nonwovens, needle punched nonwovens and melt blown nonwovens. The mechanisms and performances of corona charging, hydro charging and air charging were introduced. In particular, three types of nonwoven filtration materials mentioned above were elaborated together with the latest global research progress of electret technology. The influence of polymer modification technology and electret treatment technology on filtration performance of the nonwoven materials were further analyzed respectively. The review indicates that polymer modification technology, high-speed preparation technology of new materials and electret treatment technology are regarded as the research directions of nonwoven filtration materials for protective masks and its preparation technology in the future, and the evaluation standard system should be improved accordingly.

Progress of noise reduction product based on fiber materials

LI Huiqin, ZHANG Nan, WEN Xiaodan, GONG Jixian, ZHAO Xiaoming, WANG Zhishuai

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  175-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181002007

Abstract ( 489 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1563KB) ( 239 )   Save

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In order to improve the performance of fiber material structure for noise reduction, research progress in noise reduction products based on fiber materials was presented in this review. The noise reduction products based on fiber materials was classified into three categories, i.e. multilayer porous materials, combination of porous materials with resonance materials, and combination of porous materials with damping materials. In this review, the construction method, structure composition, noise reduction effect and acting mechanism of various noise reduction structures were briefly analyzed, and their future development in the field of noise reduction was discussed. The prospective applications and development of fiber materials in the field of noise reduction were presented. It is pointed out that fineness, environmental friendliness and multi-functionalization are the trend for the noise reduction functional fiber aggregation.

Research progress of two-dimensional carbide in field of flexible electromagnetic absorbing

ZHANG Hengyu, ZHANG Xiansheng, XIAO Hong, SHI Meiwu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  182-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190404806

Abstract ( 494 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (986KB) ( 215 )   Save

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In view of the secondary pollution caused by the reflection of electromagnetic waves by traditional electromagnetic shielding materials and the problems of heavy, corrosive and poor flexibility of existing absorbing materials, this paper summarizes the application research of the new two-dimensional transition metal carbon/nitrogen compound MXene and its flexible composite materials in the field of absorbing microwave. The effects of intrinsic defects, functional groups, high electrical conductivity and large specific surface area on absorbing properties of MXene were analyzed, and the absorbing mechanism of MXene and its flexible composites was extracted. It is pointed out that MXene and its composites can be used as electromagnetic shielding materials mainly based on absorbing electromagnetic waves by changing the structure and morphology of their compounds, layer-by-layer self-assembly and composite modification, which provides a research direction for the development of new generation of lightweight, ultra-thin, flexible broadband, absorbing electromagnetic shielding materials and their applications in portable wearable electronic devices.

Research progress of antibacterial cotton fabric treated with silver nanoparticles based on covalent bond

ZHAO Bing, HUANG Xiaocui, QI Ning, ZHONG Zhou, CHE Mingguo, GE Liangliang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(03):  188-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181205709

Abstract ( 462 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1931KB) ( 184 )   Save

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In view of unaffinity, weak physical adsorption and poor washing fastness between cotton fabric and silver nanoparticles (AgNPs), the latest research progress of AgNPs antibacterial cotton fabric based on covalent bond was systematically reviewed. Two covalent bond mechanisms, schiff base reaction and esterification reaction, were described. Combined with the data of inhibition rate and silver content, preparation process, antibacterial property and wash fastness of AgNPs antibacterial cotton fabric based on covalent bond were discussed, which were classified by covalent crosslinkers between AgNPs and cotton fabric, such as hyperbranched polymers, dendrimers, silk fibroin, sericin, cysteine, methionine, mercaptoacetic acid, chitosan derivatives, polystyrene-b-polyacrylic acid, butane tetracarboxylic acid, and so on. Finally, the shortcomings and the concerns in future of AgNPs antibacterial cotton fabric based on covalent bond were introduced. It is pointed out that the covalent crosslinking methods greatly improve the antibacterial washability of AgNPs and provide a new thought and a new way for developing environmentally friendly and durable antibacterial AgNPs textiles.