Table of Content

15 April 2020, Volume 41 Issue 04

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Fiber Materials

Developing black high-tenacity polyester yarns based on dynamic characteristics

JI Hong, ZHANG Yang, CHEN Kang, SONG Minggen, JIANG Quan, FAN Yonggui, ZHANG Yumei, WANG Huaping

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190705208

Abstract ( 507 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2275KB) ( 378 )   Save

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In order to overcome the unstable problems in dope dyeing technology due to the high spinning temperature and disperse of colorant in high viscosity melts, the material properties including the rheological properties, thermal stability, crystallization kinetics related to spinning kinetics of high intrinsic viscosity polyester with carbon black were studied. The key procedures including drying, melting, spinning extrusion, cooling, hot drawing and heat setting were designed based on the above achieved results. The black polyester industrial yarn with high strength (tenacity of 8.20 cN/dtex) and good color fastness to washing and rubbing (4-5 grade) has been achieved. The research outcome is not only helpful to produce dope dyed polyester industrial yarns with clear design directions and with cost, but also provide reference for the development of other functional fibers.

Effect of urea degumming on mechanical properties of silk fibroin aerogels

WANG Zongqian, YANG Haiwei, ZHOU Jian, LI Changlong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  9-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190500106

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Aiming at improving mechanical properties of silk fibroin aerogel, a urea degumming process applied on raw silk was reported, and the silk fibroin aerogel was prepared through fibroin dissolution, dilution and freeze-drying. Meanwhile, the morphology and structure of the aerogel were analyzed by scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction spectroscopy, infrared spectrometer and universal material testing machine. The results of which were compared with the aerogel prepared from sodium carbonate degummed silk. The findings show that the non-alkali urea degumming process has a little damage on silk fibroin, and the prepared aerogel exhibits a complete morphology and a stable skeleton structure, with relative content of its β-sheet structure being 50.27% and its crystallinity 49.33%. The compressive strength and compressive modulus of the aerogel are found to be (32.36±2.35) and (119.31± 8.93) kPa at 70% the compression deformation respectively, which are much higher than those of fibroin aerogels prepared through sodium carbonate degumming process.

Structure and property of poly(vinyl alcohol-co-ethylene) nanofiber/polypropylene microfiber scaffold: a composite air filter with high filtration performance

WAN Yucai, LIU Ying, WANG Xu, YI Zhibing, LIU Ke, WANG Dong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  15-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190706206

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To enhance the filtration performance of fiber based air filtration materials, poly(vinyl alcohol-co-ethylene) (PVA-co-PE) nanofibers were prepared using the melt-blend-phase-separation method. The composite filter was obtained by immersing the polypropylene (PP) needle-punched nonwoven fabric into the aqueous phase-based PVA-co-PE nanofibers and freeze-dring them. The composite filters were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, scanning electron microscope, electrostatic voltmeter, capillary flow poromete and filter tester. After the filtration test of NaCl nano-aerosol with the size of 0.3 μm, a best filtration performance was obtained with quality factor of 0.091 9 Pa^-1, filtration efficiency of 99.936% and pressure drop of 81 Pa when basic density of nanofiber is 9.34 g/m². The tensile strength and modulus of this composite filter both show about 1.5 times higher than that of PP needle-punched nonwoven fabric.

Strain sensing property of flexible wearable spandex/polyaniline/polyurethane composites

WU Yingxin, HU Chengye, ZHOU Xiaoya, HAN Xiao, HONG Jianhan, GIL Ignacio

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  21-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190700205

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In order to obtain high conductivity and stable strain sensing performance, conductive spandex/polyaniline composite fiber was prepared via in-situ polymerization followed by structure and properties analysis of the composite fiber. The spandex/polyaniline/polyurethane composite was prepared from composite conductive fiber and water-soluble polyurethane, and its strain sensing performance under different tensile conditions was studied. The results show that a dense layer of polyaniline is formed on the surface of spandex fiber, and its conductivity reaches 0.626 S/cm. The conductive polyaniline layer on the surface of spandex/polyaniline composite fiber is damaged by the reciprocating stretching, which affect the repeatability of the strain sensing performance. The protection of polyurethane improves the repeatability of the strain sensing property of the spandex/polyaniline/polyurethane composites. For example, under the condition of 100% strain, the ratio of resistance value and initial value of the composites after 10 times of stretching and stretching recovery decreases by about 66.7% and 50.0% compared with the conductive spandex/polyaniline composite fiber.

Study on oil absorbency of nature hollow metaplexis japonica seed hair fibers

WANG Dengfeng, WANG Zongqian, FAN Xiangyu, SONG Bo, LI Yu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  26-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190404307

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This research was carried out with the purpose of exploring the application of the metaplexis japonica seed hair fibers (Mj-fibers) in oil absorption and to realize high-value utilization of the fibers. Static contact angles of different liquids on the surface of fibers were measured by a contact angle-measuring instrument. The morphological characteristics of the fibers before and after oil absorption and the morphological changes after repeated oil absorption were observed and compared using the fiber imaging system. Static oil absorbency, oil retention performance and reusability of Mj-fibers to different oil agents were analyzed, and the fibers was involved as the filter layer making use of its separation function for oil/water mixture. The results show that Mj-fibers possess excellent lipophilic and hydrophobic properties, and the static contact angle of pure water on the surface of the fiber is measured to be 151.12°. Due to the oil absorption and oil storage between the fibers and in the hollowness of the fibres, the saturated oil absorption ratios for absorbing vegetable oil, lubricant oil and diesel are found to be 81.52, 77.62 and 57.22 g/g, respectively. The oil retention rates with these types of oil still reach 79.1%, 75.4% and 72.0% after 12 h gravity leaching. After 8 cycles, the oil absorption rate for these three types of oil demonstrated decrease by 23.4%, 22.2% and 20.7% respectively. In addition, After 4 times of filtration, the separation efficiency of the Mj-fibers for vegetable oil reaches 98.0%, ensuring initial oil/water separation.

Textile Engineering

Effect of spinning method on wrinkle-resistance and tensile elasticity of fabric

SU Xuzhong, WEI Yanhong, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  33-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190406306

Abstract ( 515 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (3425KB) ( 152 )   Save

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In order to develop natural wrinkle-resistant fabrics, the effect of spinning methods on fabric tensile elasticity and wrinkle-resistance was investigated. In this research, five types of 14.8 tex yarns were prepared using polyester (PET) filament and pure cotton yarn through complete condensing spinning, complete condensing spinning core-spun, complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun, complete condensing Siro-spinning double-core core-spun and plied yarns. Five types of fabrics of the same specification were woven from these 5 types of yarns. Performances of the five fabrics were evaluated and analyzed for shape retention and deformation resistance, such as wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability, rigid flexibility and tensile deformation. The results show that the greater elastic deformation ratio and initial modulus of the fiber, the better the elasticity of the fabric, and the better the wrinkle recovery of the fabric. When the yarn is less in hairiness, smooth and even in surface, and high in initial modulus, the fabric demonstrates higher wrinkle resistance. The complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun yarn and plied yarns show good wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and tensile elastic recovery and crisp, and the apparent flatness grade of fabrics both is 3.5. Compared with the plied yarn, the production process of complete condensing Siro-spinning core-spun is short and the cost is low, and therefore it is more suitable for the preparation of high shape retention care-free shirt fabrics.

Surface defect recognition of chemical fiber yarn packages based on improved convolutional neural network

WANG Zexia, CHEN Ge, CHEN Zhenzhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190500406

Abstract ( 508 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2444KB) ( 131 )   Save

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Focusing on the disadvantages of traditional manual method for defect detection of chemical fiber yarn packages, an improved convolutional neural network was proposed to classify and recognize the normal and three common defective yarn packages. The images of collected yarn package were processed into blocks before features were extracted by using the improved convolutional neural network. The global maximum pooling layer was used instead of the full connection layer, enhancing the robustness of images to spatial translations and reducing the model parameters. Softmax classifier was employed for classification. As a result, an active learning method was proposed for network learning. Firstly, a small number of labeled samples were used to train the network, and then the most valuable samples for improving network performance were selected and labeled, which were then added to the training samples. The experimental results show that this method can effectively facilitate the defect recognition of yarn packages, achieving a recognition accuracy of 97.1%. This method effectively reduces the number of labeled samples required by the network and saves a lot of labeling costs, with a certain degree of universality.

Comparison of feature extracting and matching methods for fabric patterns

WANG Hui, SUN Jie, DING Xiaojun, LONG Ying, ZOU Fengyuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  45-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190605606

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In fabric pattern recognition, variations in image scaling, rotating, folding and other deformation in the sampling process cause errors, and this paper investigated the improvement of the exacting and matching method for fabric patterns. To explore the applicability of feature extracting and matching methods for complicated patterns, the river cliff water pattern was taken as experimental samples. 5 types of images of the fabric pattern feature were acquired under scaling, rotation, fuzzy, illumination and drape respectively, and fabric pattern features were extracted using scale-invariant feature transform(SIFT), speeded-up robust features (SURF), binary robust invariant scalable key-points (BRISK)algorithms. Euclidean distance method was adopted for matching calculation, eliminating false match points by random sample consensus algorithm. The results show that BRISK algorithm is the best in matching ratio, which is 87.10% on average. Folding is proven to have the greatest impacts on fabric feature matching, and the robustness of BRISK algorithm under folding change is better than SIFT and SURF algorithms. BRISK algorithmic speed is the fastest, taking an average time of 0.551 s to perform the image feature extraction and matching. In fabric pattern matching, BRISK algorithm is demonstrated better applicability than SIFT or SURF algorithms.

Surface defect detection method of carbon fiber prepreg based on machine vision

LU Hao, CHEN Yuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  51-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190502107

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Aiming at low efficiency, high cost and poor real-time of artificial detection of surface defects of carbon fiber prepregs, an automatic detection method based on machine vision was proposed. Two high resolution line scanning cameras were used to collect images quickly and continuously in the carbon fiber production line, from which 1 000 images with defects were randomly selected. After that, the image enhancement algorithm based on the atmospheric light scattering model was used to pre-process the images to eliminate the interference of white resin. The YOLOv2 object detection network was refined with 19 convolution layers and 5 maximum pooling layers for improvement in detect detection. Finally, the pre-processed images were trained, image features were extracted, image objects were identified, and the trained network was verified. The experimental results show that the proposed method has high accuracy and robustness under complex industrial environment, the recognition success rate in this research is over 94%, and the detection time of each image is less than 0.1 s, meeting the requirements of precision and real-time in industrial production.

Damage monitoring of composite materials based on twist energy of carbon nanotube yarns

LI Peng, WAN Zhenkai, JIA Minrui

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  58-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190404506

Abstract ( 333 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2509KB) ( 170 )   Save

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In order to achieve comprehensive monitoring of internal damage of aerospace structural specimens, a new real-time monitoring method was proposed based on the new discovery of the twisting energy feature of carbon nanotube yarns. This method uses three-dimensional six-directional braiding technology to embed carbon nanotube yarns into aerospace composite structural specimens to construct the new type of intelligent three-dimensional composite material. Studies have proved that when internal damage occurs in specimens, the twist of the carbon nanotube yarns embedded inside the specimens will change and generate twisting energy. The principal component analysis and damage index theory were used to analyze the twisting energy data of carbon nanotube yarns. The experimental results show that the resin fractures, holes and tiny cracks in the three-dimensional braiding composite specimens will cause changes in twist electric energy. The twist electric energy of carbon nanotube yarns has a high recognition accuracy of the internal damage of the specimens, which reaches 0.002 mm in this research. This finding has of practical significance for the advancement of intelligent monitoring of aerospace structures.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Blue light initiated photocrosslinking of silk fibroin hydrogel

SUN Guangdong, HUANG Yi, SHAO Jianzhong, FAN Qinguo

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  64-71.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190700708

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A rapid fabrication method for high-strength silk fibroin hydrogel using blue light photocrosslinking was developed. To achieve this, different photoinitiators (camphorquinone, riboflavin sodium phosphate, curcumin and Eosin Y) together with diphenyl iodonium hexafluorophosphate (DPI) were composed to five efficient blue light photoinitiation systems for the photo-crosslinking of silk fibroin. The spectral absorption characteristics and the photopolymerization efficiency of five photoinitiators were investigated by UV-vis spectrophotometer and photo-DSC. The crosslinking performance of silk fibroin hydrogel was investigated by photo-rheology. The UV-vis spectrum indicates five photoinitiators can be served as blue light photoinitiators and photocrosslinking of silk fibroin can be attributed to the dityrosine by coupling of tyrosine residues. Camphorquinone and Eosin Y show a higher photopolymerization efficiency than other photoinitiators. With such photoinitiation systems, silk fibroin hydrogel is prepared within 10 min in this research.

Influencing factors for fiber color measurement by spectrophotometer

ZHANG Ge, ZHOU Jian, WANG Lei, PAN Ruru, GAO Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  72-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190505406

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In view of the lack of precision in directly measuring the color of colored fibers, the influence of different factors on the measurement results of the fiber sample preparation process was studied. An attempt was made to provide a standard color measurement method for fiber blending. The cotton fibers magenta, blue and yellow were selected and used as the experimental materials. The color parameters of the fibers changed with the variation of fiber thickness. The density of the fibers was related to the porosity and had an influence on the color measurement results. The fibers were arranged differently (vertical, horizontal, arbitrary) and the color measurement results were compared. The fibers are randomly arranged during the color measurement process, when the sample thickness increased to 0.8 cm or above, the color difference is less than 0.1 for the changes of thickness. The weight of the fibers in the self-made container is 10 g or heavier, the color difference is less than 0.2 for the changes of density.

Optimization of decolorization conditions of Direct Scarlet 4BS by Cerrena unicolor

XU Hongyun, YU Cun, SU Bang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  78-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180904606

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Aiming to avoid secondary pollution in treating dyeing wastewater and to clarify the decolorization ability of Cerrena unicolor to direct dyes, the decolorization effect of 5 direct dyes under solid condition was detected by Cerrena unicolor. Meanwhile, the decolorization conditions of Direct Scarlet 4BS by Cerrena unicolor were optimized. The results show that 5 direct dyes can be decolorized by Cerrena unicolor, among which, the decolorization performance of Direct Scarlet 4BS is the most obvious. The optimized decolorization conditions of Direct Scarlet 4BS dye by Cerrena unicolor are found as follows: glucose 20 g/L, ammonium nitrate 1 g/L, MgSO₄ 1.5 mmol/L, and inoculation amount is 2 pieces (diameter 1 cm)/50 mL reaction system. Under optimized conditions, the decolorization rate of Direct Scarlet 4BS by Cerrena unicolor is 92.00% at 13 d. Compared with the decolorization rate before optimization, the decolorization rate is increased by 50.82%.

Synthesis and application of nano-ZnO/organic fluorosilicon modified polyacrylate emulsion

SUI Zhihui, SAN Jinglong, WANG Xu, CHANG Jiang, WU Xuedong, ZU Bin

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  84-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190602207

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In order to improve the wearability of cotton fabrics, such as ultraviolet resistance, hydrophobicity and softness, the core-shell type nano-ZnO/fluorosilicone modified polyacrylate emulsion was prepared by semi-continuous seed emulsion copolymerization using nano-ZnO, dodecafluloroheptry methacrylate, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and butyl acrylate as reaction monomers, and it was applied to finishing cotton fabrics. Structure and properties of the prepared latex film were characterized and analyzed by infrared spectrometer, X-ray photoelectron spectrometer and thermogravimetric analyzer. Application performance of the finished cotton fabrics was tested by fabric stylistic instrument. The results show that the prepared composite emulsion has the core-shell structure. The average particle size is 45.64 nm and the average Zeta potential is -43.4 mV. The cotton fabrics treated with composite emulsion show good ultraviolet protection performance with the transmi-ttance (UVA) being 2.13%, and the ultraviolet protection factor 50.18. The contact angle of the fabric to water is 136.14°. The bending rigidity and friction coefficient (static and dynamic) is decreased obviously. The cotton fabric is endowed with excellent softness and smooth handle.

Effect of polyvinyl alcohol on durability of polyaniline conductive layer on poly(p-phenylene terephthamide) yarn surface

HU Chengye, MIAO Runwu, HAN Xiao, HONG Jianhan, GIL Ignacio

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  91-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190605907

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In order to improve the bonding fastness between polyaniline (PANI) conductive layer and substrate materials, poly(vinyl alcohol )(PVA) was used as the copolymer to fabricate PANI/PVA conductive layer on the surface of poly(p-phenylene terephthamide) (PPTA) yarns by a continuous method based on in-situ polymerization technique, and conductive PPTA/PANI/PVA composite yarns were obtained. The structure and properties of conductive composite yarns were analyzed, and the influence of PVA on washing resistance and wear resistance of PANI conductive layer was studied. The results show that appropriate amount of PVA is helpful to improve the structure regularity and conductivity of the conductive layer. With the increase of PVA mass ratio, the conductivity of the conductive composite yarns first increases and then decreases. When the mass ratio of PVA to aniline is 4.30%, the conductivity of the conductive composite yarn is the highest, reaching (1.120±0.198) S/cm .The addition of PVA and the increase of its mass ratio contribute to the improvement of the washing resistance and wear resistance of PANI conductive layer under the action of small external force.

Relationship between open-width mercerization condition and loop structure of weft plain-knitted cotton fabrics

WEI Tengxiang, LI Min, PENG Hongyun, FU Shaohai

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  98-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181106008

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The change of loop structure of mercerized weft plain-knitted cotton fabric was studied to solve the problem that the loop is easily deformed in the process of open-width mercerization. In this research, the fabric was cut into different fabric pieces using the grid method, and the displacement vector, loop spacing and height, shape coefficient and shear angle of different units under biaxial stretching were investigated under biaxial tensile loading. The results show that tension and NaOH concentration of mercerizing have significant effects on the shape change of the loops, while temperature and time of mercerizing have less effect on the loop shape. For the mercerized fabric, a uniform elliptical region appeared with the displacement ratio less than 50%. Moreover, the loop spacing and height obey parabola model with the fitting degree higher than 0.94. The loop shape coefficient presents periodic gradient distribution. The shear angle exhibites an obvious response to the optimal mercerizing condition, which is obtained to be 5% tension extension, 200 g/L NaOH at 50 ℃ for 120 s.

Study on enhancement of hydrophobicity treatment of cotton fabrics using silica sol

TAN Lin, SHI Yidong, ZHOU Wenya

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  106-111.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180804506

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In order to obtain the super hydrophobicity in cotton fabrics through an environmentally friendly approach, the present study applied tetraethylorthosilicate(TEOS) as precursor, ethanol and water as the binary solvent, and successfully obtained the pre-condenser of silica sol. The cotton fabrics with the pre-condenser of silica sol, and the effect of finishing parameters was systematically studied on the hydrophobicity of fabrics, especially the correlation between the hydrophobicity and these parameters, including preparation of pre-condenser, addition of silane coupling agents and drying under low temperature. Results show that both rough surface derived from SiO₂ nanoparticles on the fabric and hydrophobic aliphatic hydrocarbon chain bound to the fabric surface endows the fabric good hydrophobicity. The optimal parameters used to obtain fabric hydrophobicity in this research is as follows: TEOS(0.1 mol), ethanol(0.9 mol), water(0.8 mol), dipping and rolling with silica sol twice, and dipping and rolling with hexadecyl trimethoxysilane in ethanol. Under such optimal process, the water contact angle of cotton fabric reached to 152.1°, and the mechanical property is also improved.

Preparation of polypyrrole/silver conductive polyester fabric by ultraviolet exposure

WANG Xiaofei, WAN Ailan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  112-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190603505

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In order to obtain excellent electrical conductivity for a polyester fabric, a polypyr-role/silver (PPy/Ag) conductive polyester fabric was prepared by in-situ polymerization with ultraviolet exposure. The effects of AgNO₃ concentration, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate(SDBS) concentration, polyvinylpyrrolidone(PVP) concentration and reaction time on the electrical conductivity of PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabric were investigated and the optimal preparation process was explored. The results show that when the low temperature vacuum plasma treatment power is set to 220 W, the treatment time is 4 min, the AgNO₃ concentration is 0.4 mol/L, the SDBS concentration is 0.02 mol/L, the PVP concentration is 0.8 mol/L, the reaction time is 8 h, the composite fabric obtains the smallest sheet resistance, which is 61.54 Ω/□. There forms a continuous polypyrrole conductive film on the surface. The composite fabric demonstrats good antibacterial properties due to the presence of nano silver particles on surface and the width of the antibacterial band of escherichia coli and staphylococcus oureus is greater than 1 mm.

Apparel Engineering

Thermal protective performance of composite flame retardant fabrics treated by graphene aerogel

GAO Shan, LU Yehu, ZHANG Desuo, WU Lei, WANG Laili

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  117-122.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190302907

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To further improve the comprehensive performance of thermal protective clothing and meet the needs of increasing thermal protection with reduced heat storage, a type of graphene aerogel material with low density, low thermal conductivity and good heat insulating property was prepared by the modified Hummers method, and a composite flame retardant fabric system was constructed. The thermal protective performance of graphene aerogel with different thickness was measured in a low radiation condition. The results show that the flame retardant composite fabrics with graphene aerogel block provides better thermal protective performance, with the time required to cause skin damage extending about 203% and the time required to generate skin burn extending about 218%. It is found that the relationship between the thermal protective performance and the graphene aerogel thickness is not linear. The water vapor transfer of the flame retardant composite fabrics with graphene aerogel block is around 10.4 g/(m²·24 h), presenting no significant difference compared to fabrics untreated by graphene aerogel.

Image-based three-dimensional garment reconstruction

PAN Bo, ZHONG Yueqi

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  123-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190600806

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Due to mesh reconstruction error caused by the lack of point cloud during the Poisson reconstruction, a solution strategy that fuse dense point cloud reconstructed in batches by using the nearest iteration algorithm was proposed to restore three-dimensional(3-D) structure. The appropriate number of reconstructed images and shooting schemes were determined by comparing the effect of reconstructed dense point cloud model. The optimal parameter selection of octree depth during Possion reconstruction were analyzed, and the model accuracy based on these strategy was tested. The results indicate that it is sufficient to recover model surface details when octree depth has been set up to 11. The model demonstrates more integrity when the image quantity is greater than 60. Adopting "Hemispherical" shooting scheme has been proven effective in enhancing the model integrity. The error of final 3-D model is less than 5.8 mm by taking the point cloud obtained using depth camera sensor as a benchmark.

Process design and knitting principle of one-piece casual suits based on four-needle-bed flat knitting machine

LIU Bo, CONG Honglian

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  129-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190503206

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In order to achieve one-piece knitting of casual suits, the formation of one-piece suits was studied on the basis of the four-needle-bed computerized Shima Seiki flat knitting machine. According to the difference between one-piece suits and ordinary sweaters, the body and collar were selected as research objects, and their process design methods and forming principles were investigated. In the conversion process from tailored suits to one-piece suits, rectangular slip transformation is adopted to transform the process, the body is knitted with partial knitting to form a curved hem, and the retractable stitches are used to form the dividing line. The lapel is knitted with the rear collar strip knitting method that mobilizes the needles while knitting and connecting with the back collar, and the area where the splice exceeds the centerline of the placket is transformed into the interior by a rectangular sliding method. Under the premise of keeping the balance of the front and rear stitches, the precise size control of the front and rear of suit can be realized by means of unequal length and unequal width knitting.

Effect of fabrics and moving speed on bustline, waistline and hipline shapes of one-piece dresses

CHEN Lili, LIU Chengxia

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  135-141.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604507

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In order to investigate the effect of fabrics and moving speed on garment silhouette, 3 subjects with similar figures and 5 commonly used fabrics were selected for the study of one-piece dresses according to the subjects' body dimensions. A three-dimensional motion capture instrument was employed to obtain the coordinate points of the bustline, waistline and hipline when the 3 subjects were wearing the dresses at the different moving speed. By using a curve fitting method, the curves of the bustline, waistline and hipline were acquired and the curve area, curve circumference, transverse and longitudinal distances were obtained as the objective parameters of the dress silhouette. Results show that both fabrics and moving speed have significant influence on the 4 parameters of the dress, of which the effect on the parameters of wastline is the highest, with the hipline the middle and the bustline the lowest. Fabrics made of deformable yarns tend to have smaller bustline, and larger waistline and hipline. Besides, their bustline, waistline and hipline shapes are not easily influenced by moving speed.

Sewing gesture recognition based on improved YOLO deep convolutional neural network

WANG Xiaohua, YAO Weiming, WANG Wenjie, ZHANG Lei, LI Pengfei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  142-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604207

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A method of detecting and recognizing sewing gestures based on YOLO deep convolutional neural network was proposed to solve the problems of similar and less recognizable gestures in complex environments in the field of human-machine cooperation. Four complex sewing gestures were used to detect objects and construct a sewing gesture data set. By adding dense connection layer in the deep network of YOLOv3 low resolution, image feature transmission and reuse were enhanced, network performance was improved, and end-to-end sewing gesture was realized. The experimental results show that the trained model mean average precision is 94.45%, the intersection ratio is 0.87, and the harmonic mean is 0.885. By comparing region-convolutional neural networks, YOLOv2 and the original YOLOv3 algorithm, the detection accuracy of the improved method is significantly improved. At the same time, in the case of GPU acceleration, the average detection speed is 43.0 frames/s, and this fully satisfies the real-time detection of sewing gestures, and provides an algorithm basis for recognizing sewing gestures in complex environments.

Effect of clothing brand image on consumer purchase and communication willingness on WeChat platform

DU Qinying, CHEN Shu, CHEN Lihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190303206

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In order to further explore the influencing factors of consumers' clothing purchase through multimedia,the influence of clothing brand image on consumers' purchase willingness on WeChat platform was studied based on focus communication theory. Product image, publicity image, corporate image and network platform image were put forward as WeChat platform clothing brand image dimensions. Questionnaire survey was conducted to investigate consumers' perception of each dimension and their willingness to purchase and share. The results show that consumers' value perception difference in each dimension is found to have a positive impact on their purchase intention and willingness to share and spread, and that the network platform image and corporate image have the most significant influence on the purchase intention, network platform image and product image have the most significant influence on the willingness to share and spread. Furthermore, brand image building and communication mechanism of WeChat platform under the application of focus media is analyzed and discussed in this paper. On this basis, suggestions are put forward on the clothing brand image building and communication in WeChat platform in terms of attaching importance to differentiated needs, using visual design and establishing audience feedback mechanism.

Machinery & Accessories

Design of automatic scraping component based on buffering strategy for tool setting

DING Caihong, LI Shucheng, JI Xingyue

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  155-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190705906

Abstract ( 342 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (4090KB) ( 140 )   Save

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In response to the current demand for automatic spinneret scraping in chemical fiber spinning production, an automatic scraping method was proposed, and a scraper assembly with a tool setting buffering structure of series-parallel spring was designed. By planning the tool setting motion parameters and establishing the dynamic model of the scraper assembly, the stiffness coefficient of the springs was determined. The correctness of the motion parameter design and the buffering structure design was verified by Adams simulation of the tool setting motion. Consequently, an automatic scraping test platform was set up and the measurement experiments of the contact force between the scraper and the spinneret were performed at the tool setting stage. The measurement results show that the variation trend of the contact force in the actual tool setting motion is consistent with that in Adams simulation. In addition, it is proved by experiment that the scraper assembly can clean the spinneret surface effectively, and the scraping effect becomes more obvious as the contact force increases. The results acquired in this research is expected to be helpful for refined design of the automatic scraping system as a technical reference.

Performance optimization of elastic spindle pipe based on neural network and genetic algorithm

MO Shuai, FENG Zhanyong, TANG Wenjie, DANG Heyu, ZOU Zhenxing

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  161-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190101306

Abstract ( 345 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4187KB) ( 141 )   Save

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The aim of this research is to improve the matching efficiency of the damping elastic tube to the support elasticity of the lower spindle and the stability of the spindle at high speeds. Using the formula of the damping equivalent bending stiffness and the equivalent stiffness coefficient of the bottom of the damping elastic tube, a mathematical model of the bending stiffness and the bottom deflection of the elastic tube was established and calculated using MatLab numerical analysis software. The approximate model of the elastic tube based on radial basis function neural network was combined with Isight optimization software attempting to increase the accuracy to an acceptable level. Taking the elastic modulus, pitch, slot width and wall thickness as the design variables, the multi-objective optimization design of the bending stiffness and bottom deflection of the elastic tube was combined with the genetic algorithm to obtain the Pareto optimal solution set and Pareto front map, leading to the determination of the vibration-damping elastic tube structure. The research results show that the vibration reduction of the elastic tube resulting in improved elastic performance, with a much reduced vibration amplitude at the base of the tube.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of functionalized graphene oxide adsorption materials

WANG Jiankun, JIANG Xiaodong, GUO Jing, YANG Lianhe

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  167-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190304907

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In order to promote the application of graphene oxide materials in the field of water treatment, research results in functionalized graphene oxide adsorption materials in recent years were reviewed. The paper introduced the preparation methods and structural characteristics of graphene oxide, and the functionalized graphene oxide adsorption material was divided into modified covalent bond materials and non-covalent bond composite materials. According to the chemical modification of different functional groups on graphene oxide, covalent bond modification materials were further divided into five categories: carbonyl functionalization, carboxyl functionalization, hydroxyl functionalization, epoxy functionalization, and carbon-carbon double bond functionalization. Based on the different structural shapes of composite materials, non-covalent bond composite materials were grouped into three categories: graphene oxide-based gels, graphene oxide-based separation membranes and graphene oxide-based magnetic adsorbents. Fundamental problems in functionalized graphene oxide adsorption materials were discussed, and it was pointed out that the combined functional treatment of covalent bonds and non-covalent bonds is expected to become the development direction of graphene oxide adsorption.

Research progress of high relative molecular weight polyacrylonitrile prepared by radical initiators

ZHAO Yaqi, GUO Wenjing, DU Lingzhi, ZHAO Zhenxin, ZHAO Haipeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  174-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190308007

Abstract ( 441 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1221KB) ( 394 )   Save

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To develop high quality polyacrylonitrile(PAN) copolymer for PAN-based carbon fiber production,in view of the advantages and disadvantages of different polymerization processes, such as aqueous suspension polymerization, aqueous precipitation polymerization and mixed-solvent precipita-tion (suspension) polymerization, and combined with its reaction characteristics, the research progress of high relative molecular weight PAN copolymer prepared by radical initiator in recent years was reviewed. The research contents include the choice of oil-soluble or water-soluble initiator,theoretical and experimental analysis of the preparation of high molecular weight PAN polymer. From the experiment results of PAN copolymers synthesized by a single initiator, it is understood that PAN copolymers with high conversion and high molecular weight can be obtained by using the water phase polymerization system. On the premise of not reducing the polymerization reaction yield, average molecular weights of PAN copolymers can be reasonably adjusted by using the mixed-solvent precipitated (suspension) polymerization.

Research progress in structurally colored fabrics using photonic crystals

CHEN Jiaying, XIN Binjie, XIN Sanfa, DU Weiping, XU Yingqi, GAO Weihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  181-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190304807

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Aiming at high pollution and high energy consumption in traditional printing and dyeing industry, this paper reviewed a new green and environmentally friendly method, i.e. the structurally coloration method. Chromogenic principle of the photonic crystal structure was introduced and the preparation of structured color fabrics based on photonic crystal was systematically reviewed, including the one-step method (photonic crystal was directly coated on fabrics) and the two-step method (fiber to fabric). The literature shows that the gravity sedimentation and the vertical deposition were simple and the thickness of the structurally colored film obtained by electrostatic self-assembled could be controlled. Inkjet printing was found able to achieve precise printing on fabrics. Atomization deposition might be applied to irregular surfaces, and magnetron sputtering could be wildly used in fabrics of various materials. Structurally colored fabrics prepared by the two-step process were firm in color but complicated in fabrication. Future work in developing structurally colored fabrics was discussed.

Research progress on mechanism of human thermal sensation under ambient temperature step change

HUANG Qianqian, LI Jun

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(04):  188-194.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190401807

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In order to improve the understanding of human thermal sensation, this paper reviewed the research on mechanism of human thermal sensation. The review was conducted in three aspects: the characteristic parameters of environmental temperature step, the changing way of thermal sensation and the thermal sensation prediction model. The study on environmental temperature step change was focused on the small and medium steps in temperature difference. From the perspective of thermal comfort, 5 ℃ was found to be the maximum acceptable temperature difference threshold of the two environmental temperature step. Dynamic thermal sensation was related to skin temperature, core temperature and their rates of change. The existing thermal sensation models demonstrated high prediction accuracy, but their applicability under the sudden change of temperature between cold and hot environment remained to be optimized and verified through a large scale of human experiments. The review indicated that it is necessary to extend the application scope of environmental temperature step research to special high-temperature workers, to establish temperature step intensity classification rules, to refine the role of clothing under temperature step, and to establish a more applicable thermal sensation prediction model.