Table of Content

15 May 2020, Volume 41 Issue 05

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Fiber Materials

Preparation and photodynamic antimicrobial properties of hypocrellinpoly(methyl methacrylate-co-methacrylic acid) nanofibers

WANG Tingting, LIU Liang, CAO Xiuming, WANG Qingqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190407407

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To overcome the limitation of antibiotic drugs in the treatment of drug resistant strains, photosensitizer hypocrellin(Hc)was added to the poly(methyl methacrylate-co-methacrylic acid) electrospinning solution to prepare the photodynamic broad-spectrum antibacterial nanofibrous membrane. The overall morphology, wettability, chemical structure and thermostability of the nanofibers before and after the addition of Hc were compared by scanning electron microscopy, static contact angle test, Fourier transform infrared spectrometry and thermogravimetric analysis, and the antibacterial ability to S. aureus and E. coli were also investigated. The results show that the addition of Hc causes increase in the diameter of nanofibers, increases its static contact angle by approximately 20° and decreases its wettability, slightly decreases its thermostability, and imparts good substrate oxidation under visible light. The antibacterial effect against S. aureus and E. coli reached 99.97% and 54.41% under light conditions, respectively.

Preparation of polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate/TiO₂ composite nanofiber membrane and its photocatalytic degradation performance

QIAN Yifan, ZHOU Tang, ZHANG Liying, LIU Wanshuang, FENG Quan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  8-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181105807

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In order to investigate the photocatalytic degradation of composite nanofiber membrane before and after alkali modification, the polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate/nano-titanium dioxide (PAN/CA/TiO₂) composite nanofibers membrane were first prepared using the electrospinning technology, which was then alkaline treated with 0.05 and 0.10 mol/L NaOH solution respectively to achieve polyacrylonitrile/regenerated cellulose (PAN/RC/TiO₂) composite nanofiber membranes. Scanning electron microscopy observation, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis and static contact angle measurement were used to characterize the mechanical and photocatalytic degradation of the composite nanofiber membrane. The results show that after the alkali treatment, the static contact angle of the composite nanofiber membrane are reduced from 125.3°to 10.2°, the hydrophilic property is greatly improved. The degradation rate of PAN/RC/TiO₂ composite nanofiber membrane to MB solution reaches 91.2%, while the degradation rate of blank solution to MB solution is only 10.1%. After 3 repeated uses, the degradation rate caused by the MB solution still reaches 74.7%.

Preparation and properties of polyhydroxy fatty acid ester/sodium alginate composite electrospun nanofibers

SUN Fanchen, GUO Jing, YU Yue, ZHANG Sen

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  15-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190502306

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Aiming at the problem that polyhydroxy fatty acid ester (P(3HB-co-4HB)) and sodium alginate (SA) are difficult to co-solve under normal circumstances, a P(3HB-co-4HB)/SA nanofiber membrane were prepared using P(3HB-co-4HB) as raw material, SA as modifier, chloroform/water as solvent, alkyl glycoside as emulsifier. The intermolecular forces, thermal properties and morphology of P(3HB-co-4HB)/SA electrospinning nanofibers were characterized by infrared spectrometer, differential scanning calorimeter, and scanning electron microscope. The biocompatibility of P(3HB-co-4HB)/SA nanofibers was characterized by cytotoxicity test and cell co-culture. The results show that the formation of the P(3HB-co-4HB)/SA composite material caused changes in glass transition temperature. When the mass fraction of SA is 6%, the electrospinning nanofibers have a uniform morphology, and the average diameter of the nanofibers is 500 nm. It demonstrates a porosity of 74% and the grade 0 cytotoxicity, and the P(3HB-co-4HB))and SA has good biocompatibility.

Property and mechanism of poly(lactic acide)/chitosan/Fe₃O₄ superfine fibrous membrane adsorbing acid blue MTR

LIU Leigen, SHEN Zhongan, LIN Zhenfeng, TAO Jin

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  20-24.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190806305

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In order to prepare recyclable and biodegradable adsorption materials for dyes, poly(lactic acide)/chitosan/Fe₃O₄ (PLA/CS/Fe₃O₄) superfine fibers were prepared by electrospinning through dissolving PLA, CS and Fe₃O₄ into trifluoroacetic acid (TFA). Surface morphology, porous structure, surface elements and adsorption kinetics and mechanism for adsorbing acid army blue MTR were studied. The results show that pores inside and outside of the PLA/CS/Fe₃O₄ fiber are created, with average pore diameter being 15.6 nm, the diameter of fiber is (158±81) nm, the specific surface area is 14.7 m ²/g, while the amount of C—NH₂ in the CS and that of Fe in Fe₃O₄ remain the same. The equilibrium adsorption capacity of PLA/CS/Fe₃O₄ fibrous membrane is found to be 156 mg/g, its adsorption kinetics relatively agree with Lagergren pseudo-second-order kinetic model, and its adsorption mechanism is identified as chemical adsorption.

Fabrication and properties of amidoxime-modified SiO₂/polyacrylonitrile composite fibrous nonwovens

ZHANG Yimin, ZHOU Weitao, HE Jianxin, DU Shan, CHEN Xiangxiang, CUI Shizhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  25-29.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190708005

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In order to construct membrane materials with special surface/interface properties, amidoxime-modified SiO₂/polyacrylonitrile(PAN)nonwovens with highly hydrophilic and underwater super-hydrophobic surface were fabricated using electrospinning and amidoximation with hydroxylamine hydrochloride. The composite nonwovens were characterized by the field emission scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and contact angle tester. The results show that the surfaces of the amidoxime-modified nanofibrous nonwovens are covered with floccule, the average diameters of amidoxime-modified SiO₂/PAN nonwovens are 275 nm at the optimal volume concentration of 35-40 g/L and the best modification temperature is 60 ℃. The fraction content of Si and O elements on the surface of the modified nanofibrous nonwovens are 2.13% and 6.60%, receptively. All these results demonstrate that SiO₂ particles are successfully deposited onto the PAN nonwovens. Comparing with PAN nonwovens (wetting time 5.4 s), after 60 ℃ amidoximation, the wetting time of SiO₂/PAN nonwovens is shortened to 0.5 s. Moreover, the underwater oil contact angle of as-prepared composited nonwovens reach (165.2±1)°. The breaking strength of amidoxime-modified nanofibrous nonwovens is 4.1 MPa,and it meet the basic requirements of oil-water separation.

Modification of aramid fiber with phosphorus acid and its effect on flammability and smoke suppression for rigid polyurethane foams

XU Daifang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  30-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190702208

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In order to improve the flame retardant properties of polyurethane foams, aramid fiber (AF) modified by phosphoric acid was added to the rigid polyurethane foams. Oxygen index, smoke density meter, cone calorimeter, and thermogravimetric analyzer were used to characterize the flame retardancy, fire behavior, thermal stability and mechanical properties of the rigid polyurethane foams and flame-retardant rigid polyurethane foams. The results show that the polyurethane foams containing modified AF (MAF) have better flame retardant, smoke suppression and mechanical properties than the polyurethane foams containing AF. Compared with the pure polyurethane foams, the LOI for the polyurethane foams containing 5% content of MAF is enhanced by 15.8%, max smoke density, peak heat release rate, total heat release, peak smoke production rate and total smoke production release values are decreased by 25%, 25.3%, 10%, 35.7%, 47.3% respectively. MAF can improve the thermal stability of the polyurethane foams, and the residual mass at 700 ℃ is 14.5%, which is more than that of pure polyurethane foam.

Stab resistance of composites with synthetic diamond filled polyimide resin matrix

CHEN Lifu, YU Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  38-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190406007

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In order to study the stab resistance and mechanism of resin materials, two types of synthetic diamond-filled polyimide resin-based composite resin sheets were prepared by hand-forming and hot-pressing, respectively, which were hand lay-up and uniform composites. The effects of particle size and filling volume fraction of synthetic diamond on puncture resistance of the resin sheet are discussed. The results showed that the anti-stab performance of the polyimide resin sheet are improved due to synthetic diamond fillings, and the composite structure make from such resin demonstrates the better stab resistance. It is found that as the number of synthetic diamonds meshes increased, leading to diameter decrease, the stab resistance of the composite decreases first followed by an increase. It is understood that the stab-proof mechanism is basically associated to the collision probability and the resin-based anti-blocking. From analyzing the stab resistance and the work done, the stab resistance of the resin sheet gradually decreases with the increase of the volume fraction of the artificial diamond filling, which is believed to be caused by embrittlement and destruction of the composite resin sheet. In particular, the resin has the optimal stab resistance when the particle diameter is 300 μm and the volume fraction is 10% in the sheet.

Textile Engineering

Yarn evenness measurement based on sub-pixel edge detection

ZHANG Huanhuan, ZHAO Yan, JING Junfeng, LI Pengfei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190704106

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In order to evaluate accurately yarn evenness, a yarn evenness measurement method based on sub-pixel edge detection was proposed. In this process, a yarn image was acquired firstly by using an image acquisition device, after that yarn edge points were acquired by sub-pixel edge detection of yarn image. Then, the yarn edge points were processed by the mathematical opening operation, and yarn evenness edges were obtained. Consequently, the average yarn diameter and evenness CV value were calculated by using the coordinate histogram method. In order to verify the validity and accuracy of the method, cotton yarns with different linear densities were tested, and the test results were compared with the results of uniformity test using the capacitive evenness tester and with the test results obtained by using the fuzzy C-means algorithm and Otsu image method. The results of the comparisons show that the yarn evenness measurement method based on sub-pixel edge detection is in good agreement with the capacitance measurement results, which proves that the proposed method can obtain accurate results.

Study on actuating force of knit actuator based on covered yarn with shape memory alloy wire as core

XIONG Xiangzhang, PEI Zeguang, CHEN Ge

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  50-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190506508

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To fabricate fabric-based artificial muscle for soft robotic applications, a covered yarn with NiTi shape memory alloy (SMA) wire as the core and aramid multi-filaments as the sheath was designed in this research. Plain knittes fabric-based actuators were fabricated from the covered yarn, which can be driven by Joule heat. Effects of the structural parameters and actuation conditions on the actuation performance of the knit actuators as well as their cyclic actuation characteristics were investigated. The results show that upon actuation, the plain knittes fabric-based actuator exhibits bending deformation along its wale direction. With the increase of number of rows of the knit actuator, its actuating force along the wale direction in the fabric plane increases linearly, while its actuating force in the direction perpendicular to the fabric plane demonstrates a slight decrease. The increase of the loop size leeds to the increased actuating force along the wale direction in the fabric plane. The rise of the actuating current resultes in an increase of the actuating forces in both directions. The knit actuator exhibites a stable and high-frequency cyclic actuating capability.

Recognition of colored spun fabric interlacing point based on mixed color space and multiple kernel learning

GONG Xue, YUAN Li, LIU Junping, YANG Yali, LIU Muli, KE Zhengtao, YAN Yuchen

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  58-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190804708

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Aiming at the difficulty in extracting feature parameters of colored fabric interlacing points, an automatic recognition algorithm for such interlacing points based on mixed color space and multiple kernel learning was established. Firstly, the channel having the same color properties among the three-color spaces of YUV, HSV and Lab was fused to construct a mixed color space. On this basis, the local texture features and the third-order color moment features of the image of colored fabric interlacing points were extracted to represent the interlacing points. Finally, support vector machine was constructed by multi-kernel learning algorithm to recognize interlacing point features. The experimental results indicate that the established recognition algorithm can not only effectively recognize the interlacing points in plain, twill and satin weave fabrics, but also has ideal robustness and universality for the adjustment of fabric components and yarn forming process. The average recognition rate achieved in this research reaches 91.2%.

Visual feature coding and wrinkle assessment of repeatedly laundered fabrics

XU Pinghua, MAO Hailin, SHEN Hongying, DING Xuemei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  66-71.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190601606

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In order to improve the consistency between subjective and objective ratings for the repeatedly laundered fabrics, an automatic method of wrinkling assessment based on visual feature coding and multi-classification support vector machine (SVM) was proposed. 450 representative wrinkled fabric images including 6 standard samples were selected as the training set. In addition, the human visual focusing mechanism was simulated, and the sparse coding method was utilized to extract the feature vector chain codes from 9 half-level image sub-databases. 200 wrinkled images as testing samples in this experiment were classified by linear multi-classification SVM. Results show that consistency between subjective and objective rating reaches 95.1%, rating precision is 0.1 and rating speed for single sample is less than 6 seconds, which meet the current commercial rating requirement for effective evaluations of fabric finishing, detergent products and care equipment.

Detection for fabric defects based on low-rank decomposition

YANG Enjun, LIAO Yihui, LIU Andong, YU Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  72-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190806807

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Aiming at excessive loss of image information in fabric defect detection caused by the commonly used low-rank decomposition method and the weft skew caused by fabric elasticity, an improved low-rank decomposition detection method based on Beta norm was proposed. This method starts by constructing a prior map by extracting the texton feature of the fabric image. Second, a Beta norm was used to replace the nuclear norm in the low-rank decomposition process, whereas the low-rank decomposition was guided by the prior map to decompose the fabric image. Compared with the nuclear norm, it was found that the proposed method does not lead to excessive loss of image information. Furthermore, a posterior map was constructed by extracting the HOG (histogram of oriented gradients) feature of the fabric image, and a saliency map was obtained by the Hadamard product between the posterior map and the sparse component obtained by the low-rank decomposition which can solve the skew problem caused by fabric elasticity. Finally, optimal threshold segmentation was used to obtain the defect figure. Compared with the existing four methods, the experimental results demonstrate that the proposed method can effectively suppress the skewness in the fabric and the detection time is shorter.

Compression property of notched 3-D braided composites

LIANG Shuangqiang, CHEN Ge, ZHOU Qihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  79-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190507806

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In order to study the open-hole notch effect on compression properties of three dimensional (3-D) braided composites, two types of 3-D braided specimens with ±12° braiding angles were fabricated and tested. One was a purely braided structure, and the other was made by incorporating 58% braiding yarns and 42% longitudinal lay-in yarns. According to relevant standards, quasi-static compression tests of composite specimens with and without notch were carried out respectively, and the results of which were compared with that of laminates. The results show that the compression strength of the two types of 3-D braided composites is very similar, but the pure 3-D braided structure with open holes can retain higher proportion of compression strength. Compared with laminated composites, both types of 3-D braided composites retain to show a higher proportion of compression strength. With regard to the failure behavior under compression loading, the two types of 3-D braided composites are also similar, the specimens fail in shear, showing transverse fracture without delamination.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Role of sodium sulfate in low add-on pad-cure-steam reactive dyeing process

WU Wei, CHEN Xiaowen, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  85-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190804409

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Aiming to explain the reasons that the dyeing performance became better after adding sodium sulfate in the low add-on pad-cure-steam reactive dyeing process, a model of dyeing solution layers on the surface of cellulose fibers were created. The water evaporation, dye and ion distribution in the systems during curing process with or without sodium sulfate were studied by means of molecular dynamics simulations. By calculating the number densities and radial distribution functions, the results show that sodium sulfate has a water retention effect in the process of low add-on pad-cure-steam reactive dyeing. After the alkali treatment, the hydroxyl groups on the cellulose sugar rings become oxygen negative ions, which make the effect of water retention becomes more obvious. The main reason for the water retention effect is that the addition of sodium sulfate produces stable and directional multi-potential layers: cellulose oxygen anion-sodium ion-sulfate ion-sodium ion. Such multi-potential layers can effectively lock moisture on the surface of the fiber, provide a better reaction environment for the dye and the fiber, and prevent desorption, migration and hydrolyzation of the dye with the water molecules at high temperature.

Application of berberine in polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate composite fiber dyeing

LIU Yanchun, BAI Gang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  94-98.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190704206

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In order to widen the application domain of berberine, the physical and chemical properties of berberine were studied. Dyeing of polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate composite fibers with berberine was also investigated in this research. The dyeing process of polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate composite fiber with berberine was optimized through the use of orthogonal test. The dyeing rate curve and adsorption isotherm were determined, and the antimicrobial activity of dyed samples against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli was tested. The results indicate that berberine can be dissolved in water, and it has good acid and alkali resistance in the pH range of 3-11 and good thermal stability below 120 ℃. The dyeing adsorption isotherm of berberine on polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate composite fiber present Langmuir sorption model. The half dyeing time of berberine is 15.5 minutes, and the percentage of equilibrium dyeing is 97%. The best dyeing condition of berberine is found to be: dyeing temperature is 100 ℃, dyeing time is 40 min, dyeing pH value is 8. After dyeing, the bacteriostatic rate of polyacrylonitrile/cellulose acetate composite fiber to Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli is over 92%.

Preparation and stability of self-crosslinking P(St-NMA) photonic crystals with structural colors on polyester fabrics

LIU Guojin, HAN Pengshuai, CHAI Liqin, WU Yu, LI Hui, GAO Yafang, ZHOU Lan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  99-104.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190705406

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In order to improve the stability of photonic crystals with structural colors on textile substrates, the poly(styrene-N-methylol acrylamide) (P(St-NMA)) colloidal microspheres with self-crosslinking were used as structural units to fabricate photonic crystals on polyester fabrics by a digital printing technology. The morphology of P(St-NMA) microspheres was observed, the arrangement and structural color effects of prepared photonic crystals were deeply characterized, and the stability of the P(St-NMA) photonic crystals with structural colors on the substrate was tested and compared with pure PSt photonic crystals. The results show that the P(St-NMA) colloidal microspheres present a typical core-shell structure, in which the hydrophobic PSt actes as the core layer and the hydrophilic PNMA as the shell layer. The prepared P(St-NMA) photonic crystals present regular arrangement, bright structural colors and obvious iridescence. Compared with pure PSt photonic crystals, the stability of P(St-NMA) photonic crystals is significantly improved, and P(St-NMA) photonic crystals are not easy to fall off the substrate surface after folding and washing. The improvement of the stability is attributed to the self-crosslinking between adjacent microspheres, which improves the bonding force between each other and enhances the bonding fastness between the photonic crystal layers and the substrates some extent.

Preparation of nano-TiO₂ stabilized emulsion and its application in microencapsulation

WANG Sen, CHEN Ying

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  105-111.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190705707

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In order to study the application of solid nanoparticles in place of traditional emulsifiers in the preparation of microcapsules, the modified nano-TiO₂ was used as an emulsion stabilizer to prepare Pickering emulsion, for the preparation of anti-mosquito microcapsules. The effects of surface modification of nano-TiO₂ salicylic acid, TiO₂-SA dosage, emulsification speed, emulsification time and PVA dosage on emulsion stability and preparation of microcapsules were studied. Emulsification conditions were obtained by characterizing emulsion particle size, microcapsule embedding rate and particle size and optimal condition was found to be as follows: TiO₂-SA 0.75 %, PVA 1.0%, room temperature, 8 000 r/min, and 7 min. The research shows that the modified TiO₂ (TiO₂-SA) is capable of improving the lipophilic hydrophilicity and stability of the nano-TiO₂. The microcapsules synthesized by the Pickering emulsion prepared by the emulsification conditions obtained in the research have a spherical rule with a smooth surface and an embedding rate of 84.02 %, and the average particle size is 2.867 μm. Surface energy spectrum analysis of the microcapsules reveals the inclusion of C, O, N and Ti elements.

Preparation and characterization of flame retardant and antibacterial cotton fabric

ZHOU Qingqing, CHEN Jiayi, QI Zhenming, CHEN Weijian, SHAO Jianzhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  112-120.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190402809

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In order to enable the fabrics with multi-functions and solve the problem of uniformity of nano-materials on the surface of fabrics, ammonium phytate was synthesized from phytic acid and melamine, which were economically and environmentally friendly and hence widely used. The flame-retardant property of the fabric was endowed with ammonium phytate and in-situ growth of nano-silver on the surface of flame-retardant fabrics to prepare flame-retardant and anti-bacterial multi-functional textiles. The flame retardant and antimicrobial finishing processes of fabrics were optimized by orthogonal test analysis. The fabrics were characterized by infrared spectrum, scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy and thermogravimetry. The results show that the limiting oxygen index of the fabric reaches more than 35% after two-dip and two-roll finishing with ammonium phytate salt, and the washing resistance of the fabric is shown possible to be improved. The flame-retardant fabrics have good bacteriostatic effect on Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus by in situ growth of nano silver. The surface of the finished fabric became rough and contains P, N and Ag, which indicates that ammonium phytate and Ag nanoparticles uniformed distribution are successfully grafted on the surface of the fabric. Finishing agent(PA-N, PA-N-Ag) have a certain effect on the formation of carbon layer on the surface of fabrics, and the amount of charcoal slag after burning is 27% higher than that of the original fabrics.

Preparation and properties of antibacterial silk fabric modified with oxidized chitosan

ZHENG Hongfei, WANG Ruiqi, WANG Qing, ZHU Ying, XU Yunhui

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  121-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190901308

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In order to acquire durable antibacterial silk materials, the hydroxyl of C6 site in original chitosan (CS) was selectively oxidized to the carboxyl by HNO₃/H₃PO₄-NaNO₂ mediate system and obtained the water-soluble oxidized chitosan (OCS), and then the chemical bond was formed through the amide reaction between carboxyl groups in oxidized chitosan and amino groups of silk fibroin fabric (SFF) to get antimicrobial silk fibroin materials (OCSMSF). Nuclear magnetic resonance, Scanning electron microscopy, Infrared spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction were used to test the chemical structure of OCS and OCSMSF, moreover, the mechanics, hygroscopicity and antibacterial activity of OCSMSF materials were also measured. The results suggest that the carboxylic chitosan molecules are crosslinked into SFF by the amide reaction, and the degree of crystallinity for SFF materials grafted with OCS decrease. The oxidized chitosan weight gain of 9.17% for the modified silk fabric is achieved under the condition of optimized reaction parameters, the tensile strength of grafted silk fabrics reduces slightly, whereas the moisture adsorption of the modified SFF increases 42.92%. Furthermore, the antimicrobial ratio of the grafted SFF against the tested bacteria exceedes 94%, as well as still high antibacterial activity after washing; meanwhile, a good efficiency of sustained release cactus flavonoid extract using the OCSMSF is performed. The OCS grafted silk materials have potential application prospect in antibacterial materials or carrier materials of release drug.

Apparel Engineering

Application of oblique split lines in modern cheongsam structure

LI Yuhong, LI Yang, WU Jing

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  129-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190903105

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In order to innovate structural design of cheongsam, representative sleeveless cheongsam was selected as the research object based on the split line to study the application of oblique structural line in cheongsam. In this paper, two types of cheongsam structures of the same size were designed. The existing oblique cut plate making method was set as the control group, and the structures with different dart sizes in the adjustment line were set as experimental group. Each group of structure was cut in two different directions (vertical and 45 degree oblique), and 4 samples were made. By comparing the dressing effect of the sample clothes, it is proved that the adjusted cheongsam has a better fitting at the waist, meeting the requirement of flat figure fitting for cheongsam. In addition, the vertical cut clothing show better elasticity, but require wider fabric width. Through further analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of the four samples, the applicability of the samples is obtained, establishing the rules for using the oblique split line in cheongsam design.

Classification of young women's somatotypes in Eastern China

YU Jiajia, LI Jian

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  134-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604706

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In order to find a reasonable and convenient classification method for somatotypes, 407 Eastern China young women aged 20-35 were measured anthropometrically using a 3-D scan system, and 66 somatotype indices of each sample were manually measured using reverse engineering software. The main components related to human body shapes were extracted by using factor analysis. Based on the main components, the somatotype characteristic variables were extracted using correlation analysis and other analysis methods. The characteristic variables of human body shapes were analyzed by hierarchical clustering method. Consequently, under-bust flatness ratio, ratio of height-waist, chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference were extracted from the main components. The human body shapes were divided by using the under-bust flatness ratio as the characteristic variable. The body shapes were divided into 14 types based on the somatotype characteristic variables of the ratio of height-waist, chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference. The results show that significant differences between the body types exist and the classification results are reasonable and effective.

Development of novel air inflatable jacket and thermal insulating property evaluation

SU Wenzhen, LU Yehu, WANG Fangming, SONG Wenfang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  140-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190701006

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To facilitate dynamic regulation of thermal insulating property of cold protective clothing, an air inflatable jacket, branded as Mountain, with air as thermal insulating material was developed, with air inflation and hence the thermal insulation being achieved by pressing the air pump manually. The local and total thermal insulation of the developed air inflatable jacket was tested by thermal manikin with four air inflation volumes, with or without sleeves and whether or not to wear fleece. Meanwhile, the thermal insulating properties of Mountain were compared with that of air inflatable jacket NuDown. The results showed that the local and total thermal insulation of air inflatable jacket Mountain in the inflated condition are obviously higher than that when not inflated, and the thermal insulation become more obvious when increasing the air inflation volume. The adjustment ability for thermal insulation of the newly developed air inflatable jacket Mountain is better than that of NuDown under the inflated condition. The local and total thermal insulation effects of air inflatable jacket with sleeves are significantly higher than those without sleeves, and the differences are especially notable at the abdomen and back. It is also shown that the thermal insulation of the inflatable jacket provide better thermal insulation when a fleece is worn in conjunction, but it greatly affect the adjustment ability.

Classification and recognition of body type for young boys based on improved fast search and finding of density peak algorithms

ZHOU Jie, MAO Qian

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  146-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190802707

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In view of the notable changes in body type caused by the obesity among young boys and in order to optimize the body type recognition of young boys, the study was carried out on school age boys of 7 to 10 years old. To start with, the weights of 8 body type features were calculated through grey correlation. Then, the study used weighted clustering by fast search and finding of density peaks (CFSFDP)algorithm to classify and analyze the body types of boys. Finally, the research established the model of body type recognition for boys with the extreme learning machine. The results show that the weighted CFSFDP algorithm has a strong interpretation for the classification of body type in boys. The 8 body type features of young boys approximately form an arithmetic sequence with the tolerance with age; the 7-year-old boys has the smallest body type difference while the body types of 10-year-old boys show diversity. The accuracy of body type recognition for CFSFDP clustering is 70%, and that for weighted CFSFDP clustering increase to 90%. The improved CFSFDP algorithm therefore is recognized as effective to improve the accuracy and robustness of body type recognition for young boys.

Effect of apparel illusion pattern on visual and autonomic nervous system for human being

WANG Jianing, LIU Chengxia, NAGAI Nobuo, YUMOTO Lei, ZHOU Ao

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  153-158.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190601106

Abstract ( 318 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4044KB) ( 121 )   Save

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In order to help designers clarify the actual effect of illusion pattern, this research explored the objective reactions and subjective feelings human beings have when viewing the apparel with illusion pattern. While the subject was watching the optical illusion skirt, the eye mark recorder and the rib-heart electric meter were used to test the pupil diameter for visual system, heart rate viability and so on for an autonomic nervous system, as objective evaluations. Subsequently, a five-level scale from “-2” to “2” was used to make the subjects evaluate the contents of the six groups of items in each skirt image. The results show that the optical illusion image makes people to have uncomfortable feelings such as anxious and dizzy, but it also interests people. The objective responses include decreased pupil diameter, accelerated heartbeat, activate sympathetic nerve and negative parasympathetic nerve. Among the factors affecting the visual illusion attraction, the placement position is more influencing than the pattern design.

Machinery & Accessories

Modeling and reconstruction of cam profile for dobby modulator

XIAO Zhitao, YIN Honghuan, YU Hongbin, JIANG Xiuming, SHAO Hongyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  159-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190706608

Abstract ( 317 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1441KB) ( 58 )   Save

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In order to improve the motion reliability of rotary dobby, mathematical modeling of cam profile for dobby modulators was established, and the particle swarm optimization algorithm was used to reconstruct the cam profile. Firstly, the mathematical model construction method for the cam profile was studied to determine the polynomial expression for the heald frame motion characteristics. Secondly, the mathematical model for the cam profile was established, and the cam profile based on the motion characteristics of the heald frame was obtained. The digital prototype of the dobby was used for verification analysis. Finally, the particle swarm optimization algorithm was used to study the cam profile reconstruction method, and the cam profile was reconstructed according to the cam profile reverse analysis system. The research shows that the mathematical method for solving the cam profile of the dobby modulator has led to the cam profile reconstruction, and the central symmetry of the cam profile is improved. This meets the heald frame motion characteristics and provides a new and effective way to optimize the shedding mechanism for weaving machines.

Knitting machine information modeling under OPC unified architecture framework

WANG Songsong, PENG Laihu, HU Xudong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  167-175.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104809

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In order to overcome problems in low semantic integrity of data caused by fragmentation and semi-structured and heterogeneous information in knitting machine information interaction, a method for constructing knitting machine information model under OPC unified architecture (UA) framework was proposed. In this research, three-dimensional structured semantic information of knitting machine was established, and a formal information modeling process was design. The knitting machine information model was created for an overall model of digital knitting workshop and knitting machine structure, including attribute set, component set, configuration information and other structures, and the information from the data change frequency, data priority, correlation and other aspects of knitting machine were analyzed and optimized. By establishing OPC UA modeling technology implementation process and identifying knitting machine characteristics, the research studied the implementation mode of OPC UA service system for knitting machine, and an independent server of knitting OPC UA information model was developed by using UaExpert SDK. The interconnection of knitting machine information model was tested. The results indicate that the method for constructing knitting machine information model based on OPC UA framework is feasible. The method used for this research improves model architecture, semantic structure and technology implementation, and demonstrates characteristics of high semantic completeness.

Comprehensive Review

Progress on fiber-based surface-enhanced Raman scattering substrates

LIU Airong, CHEN Yanmin, GE Fengyan, CAI Zaisheng, WANG Juan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  176-183.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190301208

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In view of the poor stability and inconvenient detection process of traditional urface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) substrates, the current research and application progress in fiber-based SERS substrates in the field of trace detection were reviewed in this and the advantages of flexible SERS substrates were summarized. The mechanisms of SERS were firstly introduced briefly, including electromagnetic enhancement and chemical enhancement. Secondly, the fabrication methods and practical application of fiber-based SERS, fabric-based SERS, and nanofibrous membranes SERS substrates were reviewed. Emphasis was placed on the research status of fabric-based SERS substrates and their challenges and opportunities in future detection applications. Based on the highly sensitive and flexible detection of fabric-based SERS materials, the potential application as a wearable sensor for instant detection and environmental monitoring was discussed, which leads to new ideas of creation of smart textiles.

Research progress in impact-energy-absorbing cushioning garments

WANG Yaxian, LI Yanmei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  184-190.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190505607

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In order to establish understanding for the protection, wear comfort of impact-energy-absorbing cushioning garments under low-speed impact, this paper reports on the research outcomes of two types of protection methods, i.e. triggered protection and non-triggered protection, used for impact-energy-absorbing cushioning garments both in China and abroad. It reviews the three test methods and related standards of the protective performance test of the garments in the non-dressing and dressing states, and then discusses the advantages and disadvantages of these methods. The results show that the triggered and non-triggered protection of impact-energy-absorbing cushioning garments involves multidisciplinary collaborations of many fields such as electrics, medicine, clothing, and so on. As for the cushioning materials, they should meet the wearability requirement while satisfying the basic protective performance. In terms of protection performance evaluation, numerical simulation is shown to be able to avoid uncontrollable risks, and simulation models should fully consider the "human-clothing" interaction. The review concludes that test standards should be developed for unification and universality.

Research progress of chemical protective clothing

LÜ Kaimin, DAI Hongqin

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(05):  191-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190504606

Abstract ( 461 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1035KB) ( 350 )   Save

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In order to understand comprehensively all performance requirements of chemical protective clothing, key factors affecting the performance were discussed. The performance differences of chemical protective clothing made from different materials were reviewed, and the development of chemical protective clothing was described. After looking at the design process of chemical protective clothing, the performance evaluation of chemical protective clothing was discussed using a five-level analysis system. By comparing the relevant standards used in China and abroad, deficiencies in domestic standards were identified, including limitation in performance testing, low systematization, and slow update. The research direction of chemical protective clothing in the future was pointed out from the problems existing in chemical protective clothing at present. Aiming at the problems identified through this review, it is proposed that future research regarding chemical protective clothing should take place concerning human, chemical protective clothing and environment, so as to improve the accurate evaluation of the comprehensive performance of chemical protective clothing.