Table of Content

15 July 2020, Volume 41 Issue 07

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Fiber Materials

Alkaline enzyme treatment process for preparation of Lyocell cellulose pulp

YUAN Wei, YAO Yongbo, ZHANG Yumei, WANG Huaping

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190900108

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In order to improve the dissolving efficiency and solution stability of cellulose during the preparation of Lyocell fiber, the alkaline enzyme treatment time and dosage with cellulose pulp were experimented on, and the changes of relative molecular weight and accessible properties of the pulp were studied. The results show that after enzyme treatment, the crystalline form of cellulose is not destroyed, remaining to be a typical cellulose I-type conformation. When the enzyme dosage is set to 4 000 mL/t and the enzyme treatment time increases, the polymerization degree decreases to 430 and tends to be stable, as the enzyme treatment time is more than 60 min. When the enzyme treatment time is set to 60 min and the enzyme dosage increased to 2 000 mL/t, the polymerization degree of cellulose pulp reduces from 520 to about 430, and the relative molecular weight distribution reduces. It is found that the accessible surface area of cellulase pulp treated by cellulose increases, but the crystal structure remains the same. Cellulose mainly acts on the amorphous area in cellulose molecules and the poorly ordered part of crystalline surface.

Effect of low refractive resin on structure and properties of spun-dyed viscose fibers

LIU Xi, WANG Dong, ZHANG Liping, LI Min, FU Shaohai

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  9-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190802106

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To solve the problem of the pale color, spun-dyed viscose fiber was treated to improve the color depth using low refractive resin. This research investigated the effects of resin type, dosage of resin, rolling ratio, baking time and baking temperature on color brightness (L value), breaking strength and elongation at break of spun-dyed viscose fiber. In addition analytical instruments such as infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy were employed to study varieties of the chemical structures, surface element composition, crystallization performance, surface topography of spun-dyed viscose fibers after resin finishing. The results show that when the dosage of fabric deepening agent, rolling ratio, baking temperature and baking time are set to 80 g/L, 90%, 150 ℃, and 180 s respectively, the L value of the spun-dyed viscose fiber is reduced to 11.84, and the retention rate of breaking strength and elongation at break are 70.62% and 70.11% respectively. After the resin treatment, crystallinity of the spun-dyed viscose fiber decreases and fiber surface becomes smoother, whereas silicon functional groups on fiber surface are increased.

Construction and drug release properties of fiber-based mesoporous SiO₂ drug carrier

DUAN Hongmei, WANG Ximing, HUANG Zixin, GAO Jing, WANG Lu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  15-22.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191000408

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In order to study the drug releasing performance of fiber-based mesoporous SiO₂, mesoporous SiO₂ nanoparticles was prepared using sol-gel method, and the polycaprolactone (PCL) fiber membranes loaded with mesoporous SiO₂ nanoparticles were prepared by electrospinning. The antibacterial drug ciprofloxacin hydrochloride was loaded into mesoporous SiO₂ nanoparticles, and the releasing properties and releasing mechanism of ciprofloxacin hydrochloride in individual nanoparticles and composite fiber membranes were investigated under acidic conditions. The results show that the formation of mesoporous SiO₂ nanoparticles is greatly affected by pH value. Within the moldable range, the particle size of the nanoparticles increases with increasing pH value. As the proportion of mesoporous SiO₂ nanoparticles increases, the fineness of PCL composite fibers gradually decreases. The release of ciprofloxacin hydrochloride in individual nanoparticles and composite fiber membranes has a large initial release rate and a slow release in the later stage, the cumulative release rate in the two carriers within 12 h reaches 55.51% and 16.53%, respectively. The results of kinetic studies on the two drug release models indicate that diffusion is the main mechanism of drug release.

Preparation of flexible Au nanoparticle decorated regenerated regenerated cellulose fiber compound and quickly detection of Nile Blue

LIU Sijia, YU Qian, WANG Rui, KONG Xianming

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  23-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191102606

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In order to obtain the flexible cellulose surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy(SERS)substrate, an active and flexible SERS substrate was fabricated by decorating Au nanoparticles on the surface of regenerated cellulose fiber, where the cellulose fiber was regenerated from waste paper and used as solid support. Glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride was used to graft positive charge onto the surface of fibers, and citrate-capped Au nanoparticles were assembled via electrostatic interaction. Ultroviolet-vis absorption spectra, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, transmission electron microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction and optical microscopy were used to characterize the features of the regenerated cellulose fibers and fiber-Au nanopartides nanocomposites, finite-difference time-domain theoretical simulations were also developed to evaluate the local electromagnetic fields of Au nanopartides. After surface modification, the diameters of the cellulose fiber were 28.21 and 42.29 μm respectively. The variation of diameter can be utilized to control the gap between Au nanoparticles and more hot spots for SERS are produced. The standard deviation of uniformity of SERS spectra of this flexible SERS substrate is 3.5%. Furthermore, this cellulose fiber-Au nanocomposite is used for Nile Blue pollutant SERS sensing and the sensitivity of Nile Blue detection is achieved 1×10^-9 mol/L.

Modeling and simulation of cotton micronaire value based on ANSYS CFX

ZHANG Mengyang, CHEN Xiaochuan, WANG Jun, LI Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  29-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190703106

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In order to explore the causes for the disorder between cotton fiber micronaire value and cotton fiber quality, the working principle equation of cotton fiber airflow meter was deduced by taking the average diameter and maturity of cotton fiber as independent variables. Firstly, the flow rate of cotton fiber sample and micronaire value was measured under the condition of equal pressure and density, followed by the measurement of the fineness and maturity of six different types of cotton fiber sample using mid-section weighing method and microscopy method respectively. The values were compared with the flow rate calculated using the equation. The results show that the flow through the air inlet is approximately proportional to the square of the product of maturity and diameter of cotton fibers under a constant pressure difference. The permeability model of cotton fibers was constructed by imitating the structure of cotton fibers. According to diameter and maturity, the simulation was carried out by using ANSYS CFX simulation software. The maximum relative error between simulated and experimental results is 7.92%, which proves the validity of the model. It lays a foundation for modifying the Kozeny-Carman constant of cotton fibers and for improving the accuracy of calculation.

Textile Engineering

Effect of taker-in speeds on variation and redistribution of nep

CAO Jipeng, ZHANG Mingguang, YU Xuezhi

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  35-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191105505

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In order to remove nep effectively in carding so as to improve carding and yarn quality, the cotton fibers were carded at 4 taker-in speeds, the content and size of nep in card sliver, taker-in droppings, flat strips and cylinder screen droppings were tested using USTER AFIS tester. Results show that total neps are reduced by 20.58%-26.7% after laps are carded; the neps in cotton lap are carded and redistributed in card sliver, taker-in droppings, flat strips and cylinder screen droppings, and nep percentage in card sliver is the highest, at about 90%, followed by that in flat strips, that in taker-in droppings and that in cylinder screen droppings; comparing with the average size of total neps in cotton lap, that in card sliver is decreased by 13.1%-14.2%, while that in taker-in droppings and that in flat strips are increased by 12.6%-19.2% and 8.4%-10.3%, respectively, and that in cylinder screen droppings is reduced by 2.6%-4.6%; nep content of card sliver has a tendency to decrease with the increase of taker-in speed.

Fiber detection and recognition technology in cotton fiber carding process based on image processing and deep learning

SHAO Jinxin, ZHANG Baochang, CAO Jipeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  40-46.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191102407

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Aiming at the problem that the images obtained by the high-speed camera on the surface of the cylinder during the cotton fiber carding process cannot be recognized by the human eye, algorithms that combine image processing and deep learning were employed to assist human identification through a series of detection processes. The image data was derived from the high-speed video camera data of the carding process of the cylinder surface under the moving cover of the card. The specific implementation process was to first extract the denoising residuals from the image through a multi-level wavelet convolutional neural network, then use the deep convolutional networks for super-resolution reconstruction, and finally use a multi-scale edge detection and enhancement algorithm under strong noise to sketch the fibers. Through the processing of these three steps in the algorithm, a clear fiber image recognizable by the human eyes was obtained. Feature-enhanced image samples were used to train the cycle-consistent adversarial network to obtain more continuous and clear fiber extraction results. The results from the research demonstrate that the proposed processing procedure improves the detection and recognition effect of fibers during carding, and provides a new idea for the research in the field of carding.

Thermal aging and life prediction of silk fabrics

GUO Lang, WANG Liqin, ZHAO Xing

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  47-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191005706

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In order to investigate the influence of wet and thermal environments on the preservation of silk cultural relics, silk (Bombyx mori) samples were aged by dry heat and damp heat at 110 ℃ and 130 ℃, respectively. Material testing machine, colorimeter, scanning electron microscope and Fourier transform infrared spectrometer were used to measure and analyze the tensile strength, color, micro-morphology and structure of simulated silk samples before and after aging. The life prediction equation of silk fabrics was proposed. The results show that the tensile strength of the samples decrease linearly with the aging time, while the color turned yellow. After dry heat and damp heat aging, the fiber surfaces show different degrees of damage, and in the latter condition pores formed by fiber bundle interlacing are more significantly corroded than other parts. The content of β-sheet in the secondary structure is significantly reduced, consistent with the trend of strength change. The work reveals that the low temperature and dry condition are suitable for the preservation of silk cultural relics.

Research and implementation of flat-bed knitting process model of fully formed suit

LIU Bo, CONG Honglian

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  53-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803306

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In order to further study the process of fully formed suit, and to solve the problem that the conventional circular knitting method is difficult to produce suits with complex structures and styles, this paper proposed a method for fully formed suits by decomposing a suit along the back midline into left and right pieces for knitting and stitching. The flat-bed knitting method was investigated into based on a four-needle bed flat knitting machine. Started from the flat-bed knitting principle and method, the parameters were set according to the process model, and then the design of a full-form suit was implemented. The results show that the flat-bad knitting method is feasible, in which the back collar and the back center of the suit need to be stitched off the machine, and the T-shaped, X-shaped and other wide-shaped suit styles with different structural sizes of the front and back were realized using this method. The double-sided double-layer structures for the collar and the placket, the back center line, the side suture can also be formed at the same time to increase the suitability of the suit.

Micro-geometry modeling of three-dimensional orthogonal woven fabrics based on digital element approach

MA Ying, HE Tiantian, CHEN Xiang, LU Sheng, WANG Youqi

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  59-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190706308

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In order to reflect the configuration and micro-geometry of yarns inside the fabric and aiming at the problem of overlooking the change of cross-section yarn shape, which was caused by relative motion between fibers, during the simulation process, this paper proposed a method for calculating the inter-fiber friction based on the digital element approach. Based on this, the micro-geometry models of five three-dimensional orthogonal woven fabrics were built at sub-yarn scale with varied cross-sectional yarn shape via weaving process simulation. Each model is composed of 4, 7, 12, 19, and 37 digital fibers per yarn respectively. The results show that when the number of digital fiber per yarn increases, the simulation time and fiber volume fraction increases, the fabric thickness, the rate of the nodal force decline, and the potential energy decreases. When the number of fiber per yarn equals to 19, the micro-geometry of the numerical model is the most consistent with the microscopic picture of the actual fabric.

Stab-resistant performance and wearability of composite materials made by discrete resin molding

MA Feifei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  67-71.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190504005

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In order to balance the stab-resistant performance and the wear comfort of stab-resistant body armor, a new discrete resin composite molding process was developed based on the design concept combining of soft and hard sessions. Discrete modified polycarbonate particles were solidified on the polyester and aramid base fabric according to the designed pattern. The stab-resistant performance as well as the breathability and bending performance of different types of discrete resin composites were studied. The results indicate that the stab strength of the aramid composites is twice as high as that of the polyester composites. The stab resistance of 4 layers of discrete resin composites is similar to that of 40 layers of aramid woven fabric, and composites thickness and weight are reduced significantly. It is also found that the composite has good softness and excellent breathability.

Effect of incident angle of oblique airflow on weft yarn tucking

LIU Yisheng, XU Guangyi

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  72-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190904806

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In order to optimize the nozzle position of the pneumatic weft yarn tucking device for shuttleless weaving machines, aiming at low stability of weft yarn head during pneumatic tucking, a two-dimensional fluid-structure interaction model was established using finite element analysis software to study the motion of weft yarn head under different working conditions. A high-speed camera was used to capture the yarn motion in the pure pneumatic tucking device under different working conditions and the results were analyzed in conjunction with the two-dimensional fluid-structure interaction simulation results. During the simulation, the fixed end of the yarn was located at the origin, and its initial position was in the positive direction of the X-axis. The free end of the yarn moved around the origin in the negative direction of the Y-axis under the action of the oblique airflow; When the yarn moved close to be parallel to the Y-axis, the oblique airflow was closed, and the tucking airflow was opened and acted on the yarn to continue to move until the tucking was completed. The results show that the weft yarn can be tucked in 3.98 ms under the airflow angle of 90°, 60°, 45° and 30°. The oblique airflow at different incident angles has a significant effect on yarn tucking stability, by comparing the movement of the yarns with the angle of oblique airflow, it is obtained that the oblique airflow with an incident angle of 45° is the most excellent, which greatly improves the yarn tucking stability.

Task allocation of handling robot in textile workshop based on multi-agent game theory

LI Xun, NAN Kaikai, ZHAO Zhengfan, WANG Xiaohua, JING Junfeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  78-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190800210

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A distributed autonomous decision-making framework was proposed based on multi-agent game theory. The framework is used to solve the problems of handling robot in the process of intelligent textile production and processing, which are large-scale and complex dynamic task allocation problems. To start with, the task model was established according to the actual task environment of textile production. Taking into account of the task distance and time priority, the target utility function of the agent was then used as the policy selection basis, and the equilibrium theory of the game was introduced to solve the problem. Eventually, the decision framework was verified by experiments. The experimental results show that the global optimal solution of the task allocation in this decision framework can be better achieved in comparison to the similar distributed task allocation algorithms. In summary, the proposed algorithm has high scalability, good robustness, and convergence performance. Furthermore, the proposed algorithm has excellent performance for dynamic task allocation.

Active noise control for tufted carpet equipment based on filtered least mean square algorithm

CHEN Shaoyong, XU Yang, SHENG Xiaowei, ZHANG Ziyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  88-92.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190502205

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In order to reduce tufted carpet equipment's low frequency noise, this paper introduces the filtered least mean square algorithm (FXLMS) for textile machinery noise control. The active noise control system model was established to complete the sensor-actuator arrangement taking the British COBBLE 1/8-pitch tufted carpet loom as the research object. The dual-microphone offline channel identification method was used to estimate the primary and secondary channel transfer functions. For the secondary acoustic feedback phenomenon caused by the elected feed-forward control system, the parametric array speaker was used to reduce the influence on stability of the noise reduction experiment as secondary acoustic source. The noise reduction simulation and experiment of the tufted carpet loom verified the feasibility and effectiveness of the proposed method. The experimental results show that the active noise control method used in tufted carpet loom has better effect on low-frequency noise control than medium and high frequency noise control, and the noise cancellation at the main frequency point reaches 9.8 dB.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Scouring and bleaching process for flax roves using supercritical CO₂

ZHANG Juan, ZHENG Huanda, QIAO Yan, GAO Shihui, ZHENG Laijiu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  93-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190501408

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In order to solve the problem of high water consumption and environmental pollution in conventional scouring and bleaching process of flax roves, scouring and bleaching technology for flax roves using supercritical CO₂ as the medium instead of water was proposed. The effects of mass fraction of compound biological enzymes (xylanase and cellulase), temperature, pressure and time on the whiteness of flax roves were systematically studied using supercritical CO₂, and the process conditions of scouring and bleaching were optimized by responsive surface analysis. The influence of the independent variables and their interaction on the whiteness was investigated using Box-Benhnken center composite design and responsive surface method, and the prediction model in a form of quadratic polynomial regression equation was obtained. An optimized process for scouring and bleaching of flax roves was recommended with a mass fraction of compound biological enzymes of 3%, a temperature of 50 ℃, a pressure of 13 MPa as well as a treatment time of 60 min in supercritical CO₂. Moreover, under the optimum technical conditions, the properties of scoured and bleached roves under the supercritical CO₂ condition were compared with that of original sample. The whiteness, the residual gum content, the breaking strength, the elongation at break and the split degree of the flax roves are 40.8%, 16.68%, 17.12 cN/tex, 4.23% and 1 072 Nm, respectively. However, there is still a certain gap in comparison with the traditional method, which needs to be further improved.

Dyeing kinetics of reactive dye on cotton yarn in Pickering emulsion system

DING Yongsheng, DAI Yamin, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping, ZHANG Linping, CHEN Zhize

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  101-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190600208

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In order to explore the dyeing mechanism of reactive dye on cotton yarn in SiO₂ emulsion (Pickering emulsion)system, Reactive Red M-3BF was used to explore the kinetics for cotton dyeing. The dyeing performance of the dye in Pickering emulsion system and the traditional aqueous system were compared, before the data of cotton yarn dyed in Pickering emulsion system was fitted, and the kinetic parameters were calculated and compared with the traditional aqueous system. The results show that the dye utilization of Reactive Red M-3BF in the Pickering emulsion system are higher than that in the traditional aqueous bath dyeing system and the washing fastness is equivalent under the same dye dosages, and the dyeing of reactive Red M-3BF on cotton fibers in both systems conforms to the quasi-second-order kinetic adsorption model equation. The equilibrium adsorption capacity of dye in Pickering emulsion system is higher than that of traditional aqueous system, and the adsorption activation energy is smaller, the half-dyeing time is shortened. Sodium sulfate can increase the equilibrium adsorption capacity and speed up the dyeing rate.

Application of magnetic-graphene oxide/poly(allylamine hydrochloride) microcapsules for adsorption of dyes

ZHAO Zhiqi, LI Qiujin, SUN Yuejing, GONG Jixian, LI Zheng, ZHANG Jianfei

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  109-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190903908

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Facing the problem that printing and dyeing wastewater pollutes environment, this paper reports on hybrid magnetic microcapsules with Fe₃O₄-graphene oxide (Fe₃O₄-GO) and poly(allylamine hydrochloride) (PAH) for purifying and cleaning the wastewater during dyeing processes. These microcapsules were made through layer-by-layer (LBL) self-assembly due to the opposite charges of Fe₃O₄-GO and PAH. The structure and morphology of Fe₃O₄-GO and (PAH/Fe₃O₄-GO)_n were characterized. Cationic methylene blue was then used to study the adsorption behaviour and mechanism of magnetic microcapsules. When methylene blue dye (0.2-3.0 mg/mL) was absorbed for 20 minutes by microcapsules, the adsorption reached maximum. Moreover, the absorption reaches maximum value at pH of 12 with an adsorption rate of 96.5%. The pseudo-second-order adsorption kinetic and Langmuir adsorption isothermal model are more suitable for describing the adsorption process of methylene blue on magnetic (PAH/Fe₃O₄-GO)₂ microcapsules, with the theoretical maximum adsorption of 219.996 mg/g.

Fabrication of structural colors for knitted fabrics

CHEN Jiaying, TIAN Xu, PENG Jingjing, FANG Tong, GAO Weihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  117-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191107005

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In order to mitigate environmental problem during printing and dyeing of textiles, photonic crystal structural color has been applied to knitted fabrics. Firstly, a range of uniform silica nanoparticles were synthesized in different but controllable diameter. Through gravity sedimentation, silica nanoparticles were then self-assembled on different knitted fabrics, obtaining structural colors. The effect of sedimentation conditions such as silica diameter, sedimentation temperature and fabric structure on the structural color of knitted fabrics were studied. The results show that the peak wavelength of the structural color of the fabrics is determined by the diameter of the silica nanoparticles, and the relationship between color and wavelength is following the Bragg's law. It is showed that the structural color on the knitted fabrics is improved when silica nanoparticles fabricated on a smoother weft plain stitches and at a lower sedimentation temperature.

Fiber Materials

Self-cleaning properties of titanium dioxide modified polyester/cotton blend fabrics

CHEN Wendou, ZHANG Hui, CHEN Tianyu, WU Hailiang

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  122-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191003708

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In order to endow polyester(PET)/cotton blend fabrics with photocatalytic self-cleaning properties, such fabrics were treated by using different nano TiO₂ precursors like tetrabutyl titanate, titanium sulfate, and titanium oxysulfate based on the hydrothermal synthesis technique. The TiO₂ modified PET/cotton fabrics were characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, thermogravimetry analyzer and ultraviolet-vis diffuse reflection spectrometer. In addition, the self-cleaning abilities of such modified fabric samples were evaluated by the removals of organic stains on fabric surfaces. The experimental results confirm that in comparison with tetrabutyl titanate and titanium sulfate, titanium oxysulfate can be positively used as the TiO₂ precursor to graft anatase-type TiO₂ particles on the surface of PET/cotton fabric. The superior self-cleaning properties of the TiO₂ modified PET/cotton fabric is due to the deposition of a large number of ultrafine TiO₂ particles on the fabric surface, resulting in the enhanced light absorption ability and reduced band gap. The self-cleaning properties is kept well even after five times of washing.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Preparation of polyurethane/phase change wax functional finishing agents for heat storage and temperature regulation and their applications on cotton fabrics

LIU Guojin, SHI Feng, CHEN Xinxiang, ZHANG Guoqing, ZHOU Lan

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  129-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190702606

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Aiming at solving problems such as complication and low preparation efficiency in the preparation of heat storage and temperature regulating textiles by the traditional phase-change microcapsule finishing method, this study developed a simple and fast finishing method. In particular, phase change wax, polyoxyethylene octyl phenol ether-10 (OP-10) emulsifier and waterborne polyurethane were selected as the main materials to prepare heat storage and temperature regulating finishing agents by high shear emulsification. The prepared finishing agents were then treated onto cotton fabrics by the padding-baking method. The amount of the emulsifier and the ratio of the phase change wax to the polyurethane in the finishing agents were optimized, the baking temperature was investigated and the heat storage and temperature regulation performance of the finished cotton fabrics and the vests were measured. The results show that when the amount of emulsifier OP-10 is 5%, the ratio of phase change wax to polyurethane is 1.5∶1 and the baking temperature is 150 ℃, the cotton fibers can be wrapped by a thermo-regulated film produced from the finishing agents in order to obtain cotton fabrics with heat storage and temperature regulation performance. The finished cotton fabrics has the function of heat storage and temperature regulation. The vest made of the finished cotton fabrics has been proven that it has a significant heat storage temperature regulating function.

Apparel Engineering

Construction of parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt pattern

CHEN Mi, YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  135-140.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191102206

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In order to solve the problems of low efficiency related to manual operation of bias-cut skirt pattern, a parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt prototype was proposed to enable the creation of personalized bias-cut skirt patterns quickly and easily, leading to quick generation of paper samples. Firstly, the principle of bias cutting for the bias-cut skirt was analyzed. With the parameterization function of AutoCAD software, the prototype of the parametric structure model of bias-cut skirt was constructed. By adjusting the parameters, the personalized bias-cut skirt pattern was generated. The research shows that the parametric structure model for the bias-cut skirt prototype does not need grading, and personalized bias-cut skirt patterns are able to be generated by only adjusting the key sizes and the pattern bias angle. Also, the number of bias pieces of the prototype can be selected arbitrarily for adjustment. Combined with the use of CLO3D, parametric structure model of bias-cut skirt can be used for virtual fitting, allowing the creation of effect map and pressure map of the clothing to be generated. It is found that such established parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt has good application value and can lead to the improvement of production efficiency.

Style recognition technique based on feature matching in dress construction

XIA Ming, SONG Jing, JIANG Zhaoyang, MA Yanbin

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  141-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190902306

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In order to facilitate rapid retrieval of similar styles of clothing, this paper reports a study on different descriptions of dress contour and on the retrieval methods for measuring and calculating dress similarity, based mainly on the key contour point of dresses. The similarity results were calculated by the three algorithms, i.e., the shape context, traditional Euclidean distance and Euclidean distance based on coefficient assignment, and the results were compared to identify the optimal algorithm. The results show that the shape context matching method has the best effect, and the accuracy and precision are 82.91% and 77%, respectively, which can be used as the contour similarity measure algorithm. The accuracy and precision of the Euclidean distance based on the coefficient allocation are improved by 6.45% and 0.44% respectively. Based on calculation, it is preliminarily concluded that the degree of similarity influence, represented by a contour feature descriptor, is ranked in the order of angle cosine value, width and height.

Young Xinjiang female hip shape characterization and prototype correction using XGBoost algorithm

LIU Tingting, XU Hong, MEI Xinyuan, LIU Yixin, XIAO Aimin

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  147-153.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191002107

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This paper addresses the fitting issues for Xinjiang skirts through a study on the size of lower body shape. In order to determine the true shape of hip body accurately, hip data of 220 young Xinjiang females aged 18 to 25 were analyzed. Using the factor analysis and correlation coefficients mergods, 2 factor for clustering were obtained, i.e. back hip length to waist girth ratio, back hip length to hip girth ratio, and 3 hip body types were defined based on the K-means clustering method. On this basis, Python software was used to establish an XGBoost buttock discriminant model. The work involved three parts. The first thing was to compare and analyze different algorithm models and XGBoost was used to evaluate the accuracy, and the highest accuracy reached 98.4%. The second part was to,modify the intermediate skirt prototype for young Xinjiang females, where it was found that the rear hip length was 2.4 cm different from the rear hip length of the standard dress prototype, indicating that the young Xingjiang female hips is larger than that in other regions. Finally, the discriminating algorithm was applied to the data system. The outcome of the research is shown to have improved discrimination efficiency for body size, and the method provides data support for other human related fields.

Garment production line balance based on genetic algorithm and simulation

HUANG Zhenzhen, MOK Pikyin, WEN Lihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  154-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190707706

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The low production efficiency and the long production cycle are among the common problems in the clothing industry. A method for balancing the production line with automatic workstation scheduling and production simulation was proposed. By analyzing the influencing factors for balancing the garment production line, the garment production model using topology model and genetic algorithms was developed to optimize the production schedule using MatLab (R2016b). Based on the optimized schedule, simulation technology was adopted to further improve the flow balance, considering the order quantity and equipment status. The production flow was simulated according to actual production line formulation using the Plant Simulation software. Quantitative and visual simulation results were obtained, supporting the re-optimization of the production flow balance. The proposed method was verified with real production data. An efficiency of 90.8% was achieved for experimental production line, representing a 12.8% improvement comparing with the actual production data. It shows that the proposed method can shorten the production cycle, and it provides ideas for the development of the garment production flow optimization and simulation system.

Quantitative evaluation of value creation indices for apparel brand image based on entropy method

QIU Lijun, CHEN Lihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  160-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191100707

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In order to quantitatively explore the influencing factors on fashion brand image value creation, scientific inductive analysis of related theoretical references was conducted to define clearly the connotation and the index system of fashion brand image value creation. Entropy method and the expert evaluation method were employed for further quantitative analysis on the indexing system, to determine the weight and degree of contribution of the indices. The results show that all dimensions have different levels of contribution, which are ranked in the order of image promotion, brand function, brand aesthetics, brand charisma and image design, among which the indices with the biggest contribution in each dimension are promotion image publicity, shopping guide function, brand poster, brand added value and value orientation, and price image design. On this basis, fashion enterprises would be able to design and practice targeted value creation activities and build their brand images.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress in preparation and application of flexible zirconia nanofibers by electrospinning

WU Hong, LIU Chengkun, MAO Xue, YANG Zhi, CHEN Meiyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  167-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190805907

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Aiming at the problem of insufficient flexibility of zirconia (ZrO₂) nanofibers in the existing preparation methods, the research progress in the recent years in the application of electrospinning technology in the preparation of flexible ZrO₂ nanofiber membranes was reviewed. Based on the existing research results, the process of electrospinning flexible ZrO₂ nanofiber membranes was systematically described from three aspects, which are precursor solution, electrospinning process and calcination temperature. The morphology, pore structure and crystal structure of the flexible ZrO₂ were summarized. The applications of flexible ZrO₂ nanofiber membranes in energy, biology and other fields were introduced. The analysis shows that the flexible ZrO₂ nanofiber membrane prepared by electrospinning technology has a series of excellent properties such as large specific surface area and high heat resistance. However, it still has the disadvantage of relatively poor toughness of the fiber membrane, which fails to meet the requirements of actual working conditions. It is pointed out that improving the overall mechanical properties of flexible ZrO₂ nanofiber membranes and mass-producing them to meet practical applications should be the focus of future research.

Research progress of moisture evaporating performance of fabrics

LEI Min, LI Yuling, MA Yanxue, CHENG Longdi, ZHOU Feng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  174-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191100408

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In order to evaluate the moisture evaporating property of fabrics and to produce thermal-moisture comfort products with excellent performance, this paper reviews on the influencing factors of moisture evaporating properties of fabrics, including environmental factors (sweating speed, temperature and humidity) and textile structure (fiber composition, fiber morphology, fabric structure). The researches about international standards and measurement indexes of the moisture evaporating, measurement in indoor temperature and in heat were analyzed to evaluate their advantage, applicability and disadvantage. Following the review, it is suggested that we should build a thermal-moisture detection device that can simulate the real microclimate to study the domination of environmental factors and fabric properties on the moisture evaporating. It is concluded that further research on heat and mass transfer mechanisms in the evaporating process are essential to produce comfortable fabrics.

Research progress in amphiphilic starch sizing agents

LI Wei, ZHANG Zhengqiao, WU Lanjuan, WU Jie, ZHU Zhifeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  182-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191004206

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To improve the sizing property of starch sizing agents, this paper analyzed the significance of amphiphilic modification of starch, and reviewed the research progress in the amphiphilic starch sizing agents that contain anionized-cationized starch sizing agent and hydrophilic-lipophilic modified starch. The effects of amphiphilic modification on adhesion and film properties of starch were discussed, and the research direction of the amphiphilic starch sizing agents was predicted. It is pointed out that study on new hydrophilic-lipophilic grafted starch sizing agents and amphiphilic starch that is suitable for sizing specific warps, and investigation of new graft copolymerization methods for preparing new amphiphilic grafted starch sizing agents, should be the important research directions in the future.

Research progress in dyeing and functional finishing of artificial microfiber leather

WANG Yating, ZHAO Jiaqi, WANG Bijia, FENG Xueling, QIAN Guochun, SUI Xiaofeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(07):  188-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190303009

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In order to understand problems in the preparation, dyeing and functional finishing of artificial microfiber leather, this paper reports on the review of the background aiming to see future development of artificial microfiber leather. The effects of dyeing process, dyeing additives and modification of dyeing matrices on the dyeing properties of polyamide artificial microfiber leather were systematically analyzed, and the state-of-the-art in dyeing polyester artificial microfiber leather was reviewed. The additional properties of domestic artificial microfiber leather after functional finishing were catergorized, including flame retardant, antifouling, antistatic, antimicrobial, cold resistant, and temperature regulating. Finally, future development directions of the preparation, high-performance dyeing and functional finishing of artificial microfiber leather were discussed based on the review, trying to provide guidance on optimizing and upgrading enterprise products, thus improving the market competitiveness of products.