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Table of Content

    15 August 2020, Volume 41 Issue 08
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and adsorption performance of high-ortho phenolic resin based activated carbon nanofibers
      YANG Kai, ZHANG Xiaomei, JIAO Mingli, JIA Wanshun, DIAO Quan, LI Yong, ZHANG Caiyun, CAO Jian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191205408
      Abstract ( 431 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (3944KB) ( 199 )   Save
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      In order to improve the adsorption performance of phenolic resin based activated carbon fibers, the high-ortho phenolic resin was catalyzed by zinc acetate and sulphuric acid, and then mixed with polyvinyl butyral(PVB)as raw material, the flexible high-ortho phenolic resin based activated carbon nanofibers were prepared by a sequence of processes, including electrospinning, consolidation, carbonization and activation, and then the structure and performance were tested and analyzed by Fourier infrared spectrum, scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis and specific surface area and pore size distribution analyzer. The results show that the crosslinking structures of the phenolic fibers are formed with the increase of the char yield, and the thermal stability at low temperature decreases with the alcoholysis of PVB. The adsorbing evaluation demonstrates that the high specific surface area of the high-ortho phenolic resin based activated carbon nanofiber reaches 1 409 m2/g, and its adsorption capacity for methylene blue and iodine appears as high as 837 and 2 641 mg/g, respectively.

      Thermal mechanical stability of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene fiber
      ZHAN Xiaoqing, LI Fengyan, ZHAO Jian, LI Haiqiong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  9-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191202306
      Abstract ( 560 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (3919KB) ( 206 )   Save
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      Aiming at low melting point and easy creeping of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethy-lene (UHMWPE) fiber, the mechanical properties of UHMWPE at dry and wet heating was investigated, simulating the oilfield underground operation as the measurement conditions. The differential scanning calorimeter, thermal gravity, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction analyzer and energy dispersive spectrometer were used to characterize and analyze the heating property and microscopic images. The results show that with the etching by heat and treatment solution, obvious groove appears on the surface of the UHMWPE fibers. When treated with the same temperature, the loss in mechanical property is lower at wet heating than that at dry heating, especially when the fibers are wet heated at 70 ℃ for 30 d, the decrease of fibers strength could be controlled within 6%. However, with the increase of treatment temperature at a dry environment, the fibers strength decreases significantly, and particularly when the fibers are dry heated at 140 ℃ for 1 h, the maximum strength loss reaches 19.87%.

      Effect of plasma treatment on adhesion performance of polytetrafluoroethylene film
      CHEN Qian, LIAO Zhen, XU Ming, ZHU Yawei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  15-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191202007
      Abstract ( 425 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4104KB) ( 128 )   Save
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      In order to improve the adhesion performance of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film, this research studied the effect of oxygen plasma treatment on the stripping strength and water contact angle of the film surface, and compared the adhesive strength of films treated by oxygen, nitrogen and argon plasma. In addition, the changes of surface element, morphology and roughness were measured by means of X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy. The results show that the stripping strength is increased by 539.8% and the contact angle is increased by 11.4° (up to 120.4°) when the PTFE film is treated with nitrogen plasma. When the discharge magnitude is below 36 kJ, the stripping strength of the oxygen-treated PTFE film increases exponentially with the increase of discharge power. When the discharge magnitude is higher, the pattern of lotus leaf with the concave and convex grooves is formed on the PTFE film surface, and the shape of lotus leaf of PTFE film determines the film adhesion and hydrophobicity.

      Preparation and properties of SiO2 aerogel/polyester-polyethylene bicomponent fiber composite thermal insulation materials
      ZHANG Lingyun, QIAN Xiaoming, ZOU Chi, ZOU Zhiwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  22-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604305
      Abstract ( 298 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (3195KB) ( 443 )   Save
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      Aiming to develop a composite thermal insulation nonwovens with better comprehensive properties, the polyester-polyethylene fiber with a bicomponent skin/core structure was used as the main composite, the SiO2 aerogel powder was adhesioned on composite fiber surface by natural sedimentation method, the composite nonwoven materials with SiO2 aerogel/polyester-polyethylene fiber were made by hot-blast nonwoven production line. The content of SiO2 aerogel powder, microstructure, thermal insulation, elastic energy of compression, tensile property and permeability of the composite were studied. Results show that the SiO2 aerogel powder and polyester-polyethylene fiber web can be effectively combined, the addition of SiO2 aerogel powder has a certain supporting effect to polyester-polyethylene fiber, which can enhance the compressive elastic energy and tensile properties of the nonwoven composites. Meanwhile, due to the increase of still air between fibers, the thermal insulation performance of the composites is also improved.

      Textile Engineering
      Weaving process and off-axial tensile mechanical properties of wide-angle woven fabric
      ZHANG Zhuhui, ZHANG Diantang, QIAN Kun, XU Yang, LU Jian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  27-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191103906
      Abstract ( 447 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (6460KB) ( 178 )   Save
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      In order to develop technical textiles suitable for different application fields, based on the modifying conventional rapier loom, this research investigated a novel weaving process for weaving a wide-angel polyester/cotton plain woven fabric whose warp and weft yarns were at an angle of 120°. Tensile mechanical property of both ordinary orthogonal and wide-angel polyester/cotton woven fabrics were tested in different directions by universal material testing machine, receiving data on their stress-strain curves with key characteristics and deformation and failure modes. It is concluded that for the normal orthogonal fabric and the wide-angel woven fabric, their tensile fracture strengths have obvious polar axial feature. For the same tensile strength, the wide-angel woven fabric demonstrates a 30% higher breaking elongation in weft direction than the normal orthogonal fabric, and the elasticity modulus along the warp and weft increases by 42% and 79% respectively, presenting an excellent strength and deformation feature.

      Finite element analysis on structural failure mechanism ofthree-dimensional orthogonal woven fabrics subjected to impact of spherical projectile
      WU Xianyan, SHENTU Baoqing, MA Qian, JIN Limin, ZHANG Wei, XIE Sheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  32-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803007
      Abstract ( 287 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (7515KB) ( 58 )   Save
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      To study the structural failure mechanism of the three-dimensional (3-D) orthogonal woven fabric subjected to the impact loading, the progressive failure process of the 3-D orthogonal woven fabric target under different initial striking velocities was calculated via finite element analysis. By comparatively analyzing the evolution procedures of projectile velocities and accelerations, the energy absorption ratios of the yarn systems, the progressive failure process and the ultimate failure modes for various initial striking velocities, it is found that the linearly aligned yarn systems play a pretty important role in the process of absorbing and dissipating the impact energy of the spherical projectile. The energy can be propagated to a large area of the 3-D orthogonal woven fabric target with a high stress wave velocity and thus the energy absorption effect is improved. Besides, the warp, weft, and Z yarn systems absorb 39.6%, 48.37% and 12.03% of the total energy at the initial striking velocity 100 m/s, respectively. The warp and weft yarn systems are the primary load-bearing parts during the impact resisting process for the 3-D orthogonal woven fabric target. The impact resistance performance of 3-D orthogonal woven fabric structural material can be improved by increasing the number of layers, volume and weaving density of the fabric.

      Yarn-dyed fabric defect detection based on context visual saliency
      ZHOU Wenming, ZHOU Jian, PAN Ruru
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191000606
      Abstract ( 295 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (5410KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      In order to facilitate the effective detection of yarn-dyed fabric defects, a defect detecting method based on context visual saliency was proposed. Using this method, the fabric image was firstly divided into image patches of the same size according to the principle of context visual saliency. Following that, for every image patch, a number (K) of image patches, most similar to the concerned image patch were selected, and the sum of the differences among the K image patches and the image patch of concern were calculated. The calculated sum of the differences was then used to represent the saliency of center pixel of the image patches, thereby generating a visual saliency map. Finally, the threshold of the saliency map was segmented to obtain the detection result of the yarn-dyed fabric defect. In order to verify the validity of the algorithm, the yarn-dyed fabric regional defect image samples with looped weft, holes and netting of color dots, color stripes and color checks were detected. The experimental results show that the proposed algorithm can suppress the texture background and highlight the defect area of different types of fabrics and achieve the effective detection of fabric defects, which indicates the effectiveness of the method for detecting defects in yarn-dyed fabrics.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Influence factors of color stability in finishing of natural colored cotton
      ZENG Yuhui, ZHANG Tingting, WANG Kezuo, HE Li, CHEN Yiren
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190603305
      Abstract ( 276 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2319KB) ( 88 )   Save
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      The color of the natural colored cotton has been found to change to a certain extent during the finishing treatment. The color changes of natural colored cotton under different temperatures, solutions with different pH values, petroleum ether pretreatment and metal ion treatment solution were studied in order to formulate a reasonable processing technology. The results show that when the temperature is lower than 80 ℃, the color of natural colored cotton keeps better. When the temperature is higher than 80 ℃, the color of natural colored cotton changes obviously with the increase of temperature. When the pH value is less than 7, the color of natural colored cotton becomes paler with the pH value decreases, and when the pH value is greater than 7, the color of natural colored cotton becomes more intensive with the pH value increases. The color of natural colored cotton treated with petroleum ether appears to be more stable than that of colored cotton treated without petroleum ether. Fe2+, Fe3+, Cu2+ and other metal ions all have influence on the color of colored cotton, among which Fe3+ has the greatest influence on the color of colored cotton.

      Sulfur black dyeing process with environment friendly reducing agent
      LI Ruiqing, WANG Wei, WEI Bingju, ZHOU Changwen, ZHANG Shutao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  50-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190905306
      Abstract ( 756 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (2475KB) ( 137 )   Save
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      In order to solve the serious polluting and unstable dyeing in the traditional sulfur black dyeing process, the composite reducing agent D was used as a sulfur black BR reducing agent to dye cotton yarns, and the dyeing performance and cleanliness of traditional alkali sodium were compared. The effects of mass concentrations of sulfur black BR, sodium hydroxide, composite reducing agent D, and dyeing temperature on the dyeing properties were analyzed. The experimental results show that under the conditions of mass concentrations of sulfur black BR 60 g/L, sodium hydroxide 20 g/L, composite reducing agent D 19 g/L, and dyeing temperature 95 ℃, the apparent color depth (K/S)value of the yarn is 46.88, the soaping fastness reaches 4-5, the dry rubbing fastness is 4 and the wet rubbing fastness is 2. The composite reducing agent D as a reducing agent is compared with the traditional sodium sulfide, and the K/S value of the yarn dyed with composite reducing agent D is better than that of with alkali sulfide process. The reducing sulfur element in the dyeing solution is reduced by 78.0%, and the chemical oxygen demand in the machine waste solution is reduced by 76.4%.

      Influence of waterborne polyacrylate on printing effect of coated label fabrics
      ZHU Qing, XU Dandan, PAN Yuange, WANG Chenglong, ZHENG Jinhuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  55-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190700608
      Abstract ( 232 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (6649KB) ( 52 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of slow drying and low print resolution in coated label fabrics, this paper reported the influence of coating agents with different modified structures on the printing effect of coated label fabrics by testing the particle size of coating agent, rheological properties of coating slurry, weight loss rate, contact angle and printing resolution of coated label fabrics. The correlation between the coating surface structure and printing effect was established. The findings indicate that when the coated label fabrics have porosity higher than 0.509% for the pore areas ranging from 0.001 to 0.010 μm2, the printed pattern tends to show bad coverage, and the phenomenon is exacerbated with the increase of porosity. When the porosity ranging from 0.1 to 1 μm2 is higher than 2.656%, ink bleeding occurs. The micropore size is mostly distributed around 1 μm2 in the interval of 1-100 μm2. If the porosity in this interval is too high(more than 9%), there are more large pores on the surface of the coated label fabric, resulting in poor continuity of the printed patterns.

      Preparation and property of dye-doped liquid crystal microcapsules for electro-stimulated responsive smart textiles
      SHENG Mingfei, ZHANG Liping, FU Shaohai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  63-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191002206
      Abstract ( 396 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (7696KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems that the electrochromic liquid crystal is easy to flow, difficult to shape and difficult to apply to textiles, the dichroic dyes were doped in nematic liquid crystal to form a guest-host material, which was further encapsulated in a microcapsule with polymethyl methacrylate as the shell material by emulsion polymerization. In addition, the unique optical properties of liquid crystals confinement effect were analyzed by polarizing microscope. The morphology and structure of microcapsules were characterized by scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope and thermal gravimetric analyzer. The influence of microcapsule coating on the driving voltage and service life of dye-doped liquid crystal were also investigated. The results show that dye-doped liquid crystal microcapsule have obvious core-shell structure, with particle size of 3 μm, core material loading of 70%, and driving voltage of 3.6 V, which is far lower than the human safety voltage. The optical appearance of the microcapsule coated on the conductive fabric can be reversibly changed from colorless state to colored state under the stimulation of direct-current power supply, which lays the foundation for optimizing the preparation process of electrochromic liquid crystal microcapsule devices and improving the flexible display performance of textiles.

      Determination of cyclicsilicates in textile softeners by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry
      YU Yan, ZHANG Ruohong, ZHONG Yi, DU Yingying, MAO Zhiping, XU Hong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  69-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190904906
      Abstract ( 267 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2467KB) ( 81 )   Save
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      In order to develop an efficient quantitative analysis method on the content of cyclosiloxane in textile softener, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was carried out to establish an analytical method for this purpose. The test sample was extracted by the oscillating extraction method using ethyl acetate as the solvent. The extracted solution was subjected to a derivatization reaction with hexamethyldisilazane, and then was detected using GC-MS. The result shows that within range of solution mass density 1-100 mg/L, the peak areas measured for octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane(D5) and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane(D6) demonstrate good linear relationship with solution mass density, with correlation coefficient R2 ≥ 0.995 3. The detection limit of this method is 0.117 0-0.201 0 mg/L, the limit of quantification is 0.390 0-0.670 0 mg/L, the relative standard deviation (RSD) of repeatability and stability are less than 1.0% and 7.4% respectively. The sample recovery rate is 89.8%-114.3%, and the RSD is 1.3%-6.4%, satisfying the testing requirements. This method is easy to operate and capable of determining with accuracy the trace residues of D4, D5 and D6 in textile softeners.

      Error optimization for measuring color chart data in textile color management
      YING Shuangshuang, QIU Kebin, GUO Yufei, ZHOU Jiu, ZHOU Hua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  74-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190702107
      Abstract ( 281 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3298KB) ( 74 )   Save
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      In current textile color management, measurement errors are found to cause problems such as the color shade jump and inversion. In this research, a multi-directional curve fitting algorithm combined with the weight coefficient corresponding to each directional curve was proposed to optimize the bad points with excessive error in the measurement data. By analyzing the application effect of the optimization method through objective and subjective evaluation, it is found that the multi-directional curve fitting optimization algorithm works well with data having large errors, and it has little impact on other normal data, therefore effectively reducing the impact of the error from color chart measurement data. The overall average color difference of the International Color Consortium (ICC) Profile generated by the optimization is reduced by 12.30%. The average color difference of the difficult colors is reduced by 16.67%, and the average color difference of the neutral gray is reduced by 16.74%. During the soft proofing process, the proof color difference of the ICC Profile generated after optimization is also smaller than that before optimization.

      Application of textile in evaporation treatment of saline wastewater
      LIU Jie, TONG Shenglu, LI Xiaoduan, LIU Liguo, HE Jiahao, LI Wenbin, XIONG Rihua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  81-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190406807
      Abstract ( 283 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (5025KB) ( 93 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems such as complexity, low-efficiency, and high-cost in evaporation treatment of saline wastewater, textiles were used as the flow and evaporation carrier for saline wastewater, which are featured by high porosity, air permeability, fast moisture transfer and controllable photothermal conversion performance. Experiments were conducted to study the effects of the thickness, air permeability, color and nano-zirconium carbide finishing on the evaporation rate of saline wastewater. The results show that the evaporation rate of the saline wastewater on the fabric surface is increased by 400% compared to the natural state. The evaporation rate of the saline wastewater with a thickness of 0.48 mm fabric is increased by 63% compared to that of a 1.32 mm fabric. The evaporation rate of the fabric with air permeability 126.7 L/(s·m2) is 56.9% higher than that of a 53.9 L/(s·m2) fabric. Black fabrics have a 30.3% increase in promoting the saline wastewater evaporation compared to white fabrics. The evaporation rate of saline wastwater on surface of the white fabrics treated with nano-zirconium carbide is increased by 95.3% compared to the original fabric.

      Apparel Engineering
      Thermal-wet comfort evaluation of head and torso ventilation of pipe garment
      ZHANG Zhaohua, LI Luyao, AN Ruiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  88-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190707907
      Abstract ( 320 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (4006KB) ( 166 )   Save
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      The torso and head are the sweating parts in hot environment, and the thermal sensation of the head has a great impact on overall thermal sensation. Therefore, when designing ventilation cooling garments, both the torso and head must be taken into account. The purpose of this study was to compare the cooling effect of only the torso cooling (V) and the torso plus head cooling (VH) methods in two exercise trials. A pipe ventilation vest and a ventilating cap were made and evaluated on eight male subjects in an artificial climate chamber with a temperature of 30 ℃ and a relative humidity of 40%. The physiological responses of the subjects and the subjective sensation votes were recorded during the whole test. The results show that with the total ventilation constant at 9 L/s, the VH method significantly reduces the skin temperature of the forehead and has a positive effect on promoting heat dissipation in the head. VH method helps reducing the subjects' thermal, wet and discomfort sensation during the exercise. Especially it significantly relieves the overall feeling of heat. However, there is no statistically significant difference in wet and discomfort sensations between V and VH method.

      Garment ornamenting craft classification model for knowledge graph on clothing design
      YANG Juan, ZHANG Yuanpeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191003306
      Abstract ( 385 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2519KB) ( 122 )   Save
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      In order to eliminate the negative influences caused by noisy views or weakly relevant views in the garment ornamenting craft classification tasks, an automatic view-reduction multi-view classification model was used to filter noisy views or weakly relevant views in this research. Based on the 1-order TSK fuzzy system, an error constraint item was introduced to be the objective function for collaborative learning. Then, a variant entropy item was designed to learn the weight of each view, and a reduction principle was designed to filter noisy views or weakly relevant views during collaborative learning. The proposed model was tested as the final step on the clothing ornamenting craft classification tasks. Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed classification model can reduce noisy views or weakly relevant views effectively such that the negative influences generated by them can be avoided. Compared with the model without view-reduction, the proposed classification model achieves a 2.68% improvement in terms of data accuracy.

      Perceptual research on printing pattern design for clothing
      ZHENG Tianzi, WANG Jianping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  101-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191104407
      Abstract ( 454 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (3538KB) ( 161 )   Save
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      In order to help enterprises better grasp consumers' perceptual demand for clothing printing patterns, then carry out more accurate product development and recommendation, this study took men's shirts of enterprise G, which is their main products, as the research object. Firstly, the hierarchical structure representation was used to decompose the three elements and 23 important sub-classes of pattern design. Then, the method of questionnaire and cluster analysis was used to establish the perceptual image space of men's shirts, and the evaluation of the relevance between the design elements and the perceptual image of men's shirts was obtains by expert interviews. Finally, the investigation results were analyzed through the analytic hierarchy process. The study obtains the comprehensive weight values of the three major elements. The evaluation matrix is established according to the weight values and then the style attribution of men's shirts identified with different pattern designs. On the one hand, the findings can help designers to design patterns according to the target image, and on the other hand, it can help enterprises to recommend products that meet the consumers' perceptual needs. This research method has the possibility to be extended to other clothing categories.

      Impact of fast fashion brand image on purchasing intention
      AN Na, ZHANG Jianlei, CHENG Longdi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  108-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191003407
      Abstract ( 641 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2623KB) ( 301 )   Save
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      To better understand how fast fashion brand image influences consumer's purchasing intention, a structure model including brand image, brand identification, fashion consciousness and purchasing intention was built. Through the questionnaire survey from 430 consumers,this paper used structural model and Bootstrap analysis to test the research hypothesis. The result finds out that product image, consumer image and corporate image have a significant impact on customer's purchasing intention, and the brand identification plays an intermediary role between them. In addition,fashion consciousness plays a significant moderating role in the impact of product image and corporate image on brand identification and purchasing intention, but the moderating effect among the relationship of customer image, brand identification and purchasing intention is not significant.The results may become the theoretical basis and reference for fast fashion enterprise strengthening consumer's brand purchasing intention.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Structural design of automatic silk reeling machine for direct silk winding
      LUO Hailin, FU Yaqin, LIU Ke
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  115-120.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191002406
      Abstract ( 790 )   HTML ( 71 )   PDF (2721KB) ( 346 )   Save
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      For the problems of lengthy process, excessive processing steps and low efficiency in the existing silk production, a transformation of the widely used automatic silk reeling machine into a new type of automatic silk reeling machine for direct silk winding was explored by learning from the winding technology and the tension control of advanced winder. This new automatic reeling machine retained the front part of the silk reeling thread route of traditional automatic silk reeling machine, and the small reel for winding, however, was transformed into a single-thread-controlled bobbin for winding with a suitable drying method. An oiling device and an overfeeding device were added to the winding unit. The synchronous control of the winding unit and the overfeeding device was realized by the frequency conversion technology. When the silk was reeled using the transformed silk reeling machine, the results show that the silk can be wound continuously and stably on the bobbin, which has the same performance under suitable conditions with silks on small reels or on bobbin produced by traditional process and satisfies the requirements of post-processing.

      Prediction of loom efficiency based on BP neural network and its improved algorithm
      ZHANG Xiaoxia, LIU Fengkun, MAI Wei, MA Chongqi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  121-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190402507
      Abstract ( 338 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2589KB) ( 56 )   Save
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      In order to predict the loom efficiency more accurately in the weaving workshop of textile mills, three models, i.e. BP neural network, principal component analysis combined with BP neural network(PCA-BP) and genetic algorithm modified BP neural network model (GA-BP), were used to predict the loom efficiency. At the same time, the prediction results of the GA-BP were compared with that of the BP neural network and PCA-BP neural network. The results show that the GA-BP has the best fitting degree to the original data, the correlation coefficient is 0.946 87, which is 6.42% higher than BP and 2.61% higher than PCA-BP. The average absolute errors between the simulated output value and the expected loom stoppage values over 100 000 weft insertions are 0.341 2, 0.303 1 and 0.234 1, respectively, for GA-BP, PCA-BP and BP models, corresponding to error percentages 8.63%, 7.67% and 5.92%. The average errors between the predicted and the expected values of the loom efficiency with different network models are 3.010 9, 2.688 4 and 2.118 9, respectively, with error percentages of 3.51%, 3.13%, 2.47%. The order of prediction accuracy of the three models is GA-BP, PCA-BP and BP.

      Comprehensive Review
      Applied research progress of microwave treatment in protein fiber processing
      ZHAN Liuxiang, LI Wan, WANG Gaojun, ZHAO Xianli, WANG Ni, LI Yuling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  128-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190303507
      Abstract ( 308 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (3744KB) ( 191 )   Save
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      In order to apply the microwave treatment in protein fiber processing and modification, the principle and characteristics of microwave treatment technology for processing protein fiber were reviewed. The world research status of microwave treatment used for protein fiber modification in recent years was summarized in details. At present, microwave usage in the treatment of protein fibers are mainly focused on the adjustment of fiber structure, auxiliary fiber graft modification, improvement of fiber dyeing performance and pre-treatment or finishing of fabrics. As a new type of low-temperature drying method, the vacuum microwave treatment technology have been used to solve the drying problem of heat-sensitive protein fibers. This paper summarized the application mechanism of microwave treatment in protein fiber processing, prospected its research and application trends, and provided guidance for further research directions in protein fiber microwave treatment.

      Research progress in structure design of carbon nanofibers and their adsorption mechanism and applications toward sewage pollutants
      FANG Zhou, SONG Leilei, SUN Baojin, LI Wenxiao, ZHANG Chao, YAN Jun, CHEN Lei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  135-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191001110
      Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4261KB) ( 99 )   Save
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      In order to better understand the applications of carbon nanofibers (CNFs) in sewage disposal and to realize the well-directed design of CNFs adsorbents with high adsorption performance, this paper comprehensively reviewed the structure design, preparation methods and functionalization strategies for CNFs prepared by electrospinning, chemical vapor deposition, template synthesis and other green methods, with adsorption mechanisms highlighted. In addition, a thorough comparison of adsorption performances toward heavy metal ions, cationic dyes and organic pollutants were listed. The advantages and disadvantages of CNFs prepared by different methods were compared based on their preparation efficiency, structures, adsorption and recycling performances. The extensive applications of CNFs adsorbents were elaborated, especially in the field of electric desalting and ion determination. Key research and development directions of CNFs absorbents for the future were concluded including industrialized and low cost preparation, adsorption toward various varieties of pollutants, improvement of mechanical properties, electric facilitated adsorption, recycling use and more extensive applications.

      Review on pattern conversion technology based on garment flat recognition
      LI Tao, DU Lei, HUANG Zhenhua, JIANG Yuping, ZOU Fengyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  145-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190806507
      Abstract ( 351 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2913KB) ( 217 )   Save
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      In order to reveal the influence of the conversion mechanism between garment flat and the pattern, this paper reviewed the processes and methods of making pattern manually according to the garment flat, emphasizing on the recognition methods of the characteristic parameters and the machine learning recognition. Discussions on the pattern conversion technology were carried out based on the garment flat recognition, and its advantages and disadvantages were analyzed. The research shows that parametric and match conversion are the most commonly used conversion methods. Parametric conversion is suitable for clothing with relatively fixed style. The conversion accuracy is high, but different garment flat needs to establish different conversion models. Match conversion can facilitate fast conversion of pattern with high robustness, and permit pattern making rules not to be followed. The disadvantage is that the accuracy is low and large data sets need to be built as training sets at the early stage. The review suggests that in the future, relevant researches should be carried out in three fields, i.e., fining garment flat recognition granularity, garment flat fabric parameter pattern multi-domain matching and componentized pattern generation.

      Column: Medical Protective Textiles
      Particle size conversion for mask filter efficiency test and comparability of different standards
      YANG Xiaobing, CHENG Jun, ZHANG Shouxin, YAO Hong, LU Lin, DING Songtao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  152-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200203207
      Abstract ( 666 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3077KB) ( 101 )   Save
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      To clarify the related scientific concept of particle size used in testing mask filter efficiency, this paper systematically introduced the basic concepts and descriptive methods of particle size and particle size distribution for filter efficiency test in the Chinese national standard GB 2626—2006 "Respiratory protective equipment-non-owered air-purifying particle respirator". On the basis of reviewing the concepts of respirable dust and mass median aerodynamic diameter(MMAD), emphasis was laid on the calculation method for converting the count median diameter (CMD) into MMAD, which proved that the CMD provided in GB 2626—2006 meets the requirement of MMAD 0.3 μm, the most penetrating particle size, used for the filter efficiency test. Based on the conversion method, the dust size with MMAD higher than 7 μm used in AQ 1114—2014 "Self-inhalation filter type dust respirator for coal mines" for filter efficiency test was discussed. The particle filter efficiency of typical filtration media used in masks was tested using the 0.3 μm particles. It provided professional guidance for the correct evaluation of domestic and foreign standards for particle masks.

      Research progress of filtering material for medical mask
      ZHOU Huilin, YANG Weimin, LI Haoyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  158-165.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200307308
      Abstract ( 530 )   HTML ( 37 )   PDF (5683KB) ( 339 )   Save
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      Medical mask filtering materials have problems including high respiratory resistance, short effective time of electrostatic adsorption caused by easy loss of charge in the filtering materials, and the disposable use of the filtering materials. This paper reviewed and summarized the research progress of the medical mask filtering materials. According to the history of mask development, the evolution of the meltblown superfine fiber nonwovens, nanofiber membranes, multifunctional composite nanofiltration materials and their preparation technology were analyzed. From the perspective of patent application, new materials and new technologies, the development trend of filtering materials for medical masks was discussed. It is believed that the nanoscale filtering materials, the filtration with multi-layer functional materials and safe reuse of filtering materials represent the future research and development directions for medical mask materials.

      Research progress of flash spinning nano/micro-fiber nonwoven technology
      XIA Lei, CHENG Bowen, XI Peng, ZHUANG Xupin, ZHAO Yixia, LIU Ya, KANG Weimin, REN Yuanlin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  166-171.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200303306
      Abstract ( 1099 )   HTML ( 64 )   PDF (3267KB) ( 539 )   Save
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      In order to expand the preparation methods of nano/micro-fibers and broaden the source of medical protective suit fabrics, the research progress in flash spinning nano/micro-fibers nonwoven and the application as protective suit were reviewed. The types of raw materials used in flash spinning and the current problems were introduced, and the spinning technology, process and products were described. The research status and trends of flash spinning technology were summarized, while the characteristics and applications of flash spinning nonwovens were analyzed. The flash spinning nonwovens, due to their structural and property features, can be used as a protective fabric, and the classification and the existing problems in current use were discussed. The flash spinning technology is a nano/micro-fiber nonwoven fabric preparation technology with good development prospect at present, and it is of great significance to improve the technical level of China's nonwovens industry and protect people's health and life.

      Comparison and analysis on structure and function of medical protective clothing
      MIN Xiaobao, PAN Zhijuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  172-178.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200400507
      Abstract ( 763 )   HTML ( 35 )   PDF (1234KB) ( 493 )   Save
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      In order to improve the structural design of medical protective clothing, broaden the source of materials and improve its protective functions, this paper reviewed and analyzed the structures and functions of medical protective clothing at home and abroad. In terms of selecting materials for medical protective clothing presently available, five types of commonly used fabrics were compared in advantages and disadvantages, and the analysis shows that the polytetrafluoroethylene composite fabric meets the protection requirements, while the comfort is the best among all. By comparing the standards of medical protective clothing among China, the United States and the European Union, it is found that the liquid barrier is the main factor affecting its protective functions. This paper summarized the main brands of medical protective clothing in the world, and points out that the medical protective clothing should meet the requirements of middle finger ring design, self-adhesive zipper placket and adhesive tape close edge seam. Finally, in view of the urgent problems of medical protective clothing, the future development direction of medical protective clothing was prospected from three aspects including country, technology and protective clothing itself.

      Structure and functions of medical protective clothing and trend for research and development
      CHEN Shiping, CHEN Min, WEI Cen, WANG Fujun, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  179-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200306809
      Abstract ( 759 )   HTML ( 55 )   PDF (6572KB) ( 316 )   Save
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      In order to understand the research status of medical protective clothing in depth, aiming at the medical needs, this research analyzed four types of protective clothing, i.e., the "three-rejection and one-resistance" finished spunbond-meltblown-spunbond (SMS) composite protective clothing, microporous film/nonwoven composite protective clothing, flash distillation nonwoven protective clothing, and positive pressure biological protective clothing, from the aspects of the occasions of use, design and preparation technology, structural efficiency characteristics and protective mechanism of composite material protective clothing. The study reveals that the SMS composite materials have better comfort, the microporous film/nonwoven composite materials offer better protection, while the flash vaporization materials demonstrate excellent comprehensive performance and achieve an ideal balance between comfort and protection. The key to achieve effective medical protective clothing is making breakthrough in the preparation technology which lies in the large-scale production of high-performance polytetrafluoroethy-lene membranes and the localization of the flash evaporation process. At the same time, nanotechnology can provide new ideas for the development of new materials. The future development direction of positive pressure biological protective clothing is the generalization of functions, monitoring automation and informatization.

      Research progress of nonwovens for medical protective garment
      AN Qi, FU Yijun, ZHANG Yu, ZHANG Wei, WANG Lu, LI Dawei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(08):  188-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200403209
      Abstract ( 680 )   HTML ( 71 )   PDF (7705KB) ( 326 )   Save
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      In order to promote the application of nonwovens for medical protective materials, this paper systematically reviewed on the development of nonwovens for medical protective garment as well as on the types and applications of nonwovens as novel protective materials. The preparation methods and protective properties of spun-bonded, meltblown, spunbond-meltblown-spunbond composite and flash spinning nonwovens were introduced, and the mechanisms and characteristics of novel nonwoven protective materials were discussed from three aspects, i.e. film covered nonwovens, composite nonwovens and functional nonwovens, focusing on the influence of structure of different protective materials on the virus blockage, moisture absorption and air permeability. In addition, the applications of intelligent monitoring, temperature or humidity regulation, and selfvdisinfection, self-cleaning intelligent materials in protective garment were described. The future medical protective garments are expected to be developed towards the direction of high protection, high comfort and intelligence.