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Table of Content

    15 September 2020, Volume 41 Issue 09
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation of graphene fibers by wet spinning and fiber characterization
      PANG Yali, MENG Jiayi, LI Xin, ZHANG Qun, CHEN Yankun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191106007
      Abstract ( 957 )   HTML ( 39 )   PDF (2292KB) ( 572 )   Save
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      In order to prepare graphene fiber with both conductivity and flexibility, the soluble graphene oxide was prepared through modified Hummers method. The graphene oxide solution was used as the spinning solution, and the CaCl2 ethanol solution as the coagulation bath. The graphene fiber was obtained by hydroiodic reduction via wet spinning. The fiber was treated with carboxymethylcellulose as cross-linking agent to obtain cross-linked graphene fiber for comparison. The surface morphology, electrical conductivity and mechanical properties of the two graphene fibers were characterized for preliminary applications. The results show that the prepared graphene oxide fiber has an oxygen content of 31.37% and a monolayer thickness of 0.88 nm. Besides, the surfaces of the two types of graphene fibers are smooth, but the inner layers of the cross-linked graphene fiber are arranged more closely with the conductivity of 124 S/cm, which is similar to the conductivity of the graphene fiber before crosslinking. However, the tensile strength is significantly increased from 120 MPa to 179 MPa after crosslinking. The single cross-linked graphene fiber can be used as a circuit wire to light the bulb, and can be arbitrarily bent and knotted to form a petal and a plain mesh structure.

      Preparation and property of poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) composite films
      TANG Feng, YU Houyong, ZHOU Ying, LI Yingzhan, YAO Juming, WANG Chuang, JIN Wanhui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  8-15.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203408
      Abstract ( 327 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (3984KB) ( 124 )   Save
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      Aiming to improve the antibacterial properties of poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate copolyester) (PHBV) film, cellulose nanofibril (CNF) with different polar groups was used to produce CNF-Ag hybrid materials with different morphologies via the in situ reduction method, which was incorporated into poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV) matrix to get antibacterial high-barrier composite films. The morphology, crystallinity, thermal stability, chemical structure and antibacterial properties of samples were investigated and analyzed. The results show that the surface carboxyl group content of CNF-Ag hybrid can reach up to 1.21 mmol/g by introducing citric acid and ascorbic acid. CNF-Ag not only induces PHBV to generate hydrogen bond network, but also improves the crystallization behavior, with the tensile strength of the composite film being 66.7 MPa, the modulus of elasticity 7.6 GPa, and the antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus 99%.

      Preparation and properties of high strength polyvinyl chloride hollow fiber membrane
      MEI Shuo, LI Jinchao, LU Shiyan, XIAO Changfa, YANG Yong, FENG Xiangwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  16-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190904105
      Abstract ( 381 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2009KB) ( 446 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of hard synchronous increase strength and permeability of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) membrane obtained by solution phase inversion method, high performance of PVC hollow fiber membranes were prepared using the screw extrusion spinning method, with MT-I composite powder as pore-forming agent and dioctyl phthalate as diluent. The influences of heat setting ratio and extraction on morphology and structure of fiber membrane were investigated. Separation performance and mechanical properties of fiber membranes were characterized by pure water flux, rejection of carbon ink and tensile strength. Results show that as the stretching ratio increased, the tensile strength of the membrane increases and elongation at break decreases. After ethanol extraction, more micro pores appear on the surface of the membrane which improves the permeability of the membrane. The membrane with stretching ratio 3 after ethanol extraction exhibits a larger permeability with pure water flux of 798 L/(m2·h), and a better performance with tensile strength of 17.7 MPa and elongation at break of 70.67%.

      Study on liquid absorption performance of water absorbing resin
      WANG Fenglong, WANG Jianming, ZHOU Yitian, ZHAO Minghui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  21-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191104506
      Abstract ( 420 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1863KB) ( 184 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the factors that affect the liquid absorption performance of water-absorbent resins, the structure of water absorbent resin was analyzed by means of scanning electron microscope and infrared spectrometer firstly. The time and temperature effects on the absorbency and water retention of water absorbent resin in water, simulated acid and alkali sweat were also explored. Analysis and discussions were carried out on the repeated absorbency of water absorbent resin. The results show that the surface of the absorbent resin has a large number of convex structures leading to a large specific surface area, increasing the liquid-absorption rate of the water-absorbent resin. The water-absorbent resin contains amide groups, and when submerged in deionized water and simulated sweat the maximum liquid absorption rates reach about 265, 50 and 50 g/g, respectively. The liquid absorption is influenced by the concentration of sodium ions in sweat, and the larger the concentration the worse the liquid absorption capacity. The acidity, alkalinity and temperature have little effect on the maximum absorption rate, but the temperature affects the water absorption rate in that the higher the temperature, the higher the liquid absorption rate, and the smaller the maximum liquid absorption rate. After 10 cycles of absorption loading, the liquid absorption rate of water-absorbent resin in the simulated sweat still reaches 87%.

      Textile Engineering
      Finite element simulation of cotton serrated ginning state based on cottonseed modeling
      HU Wen, WANG Di, CHEN Xiaochuan, WANG Jun, LI Yong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  27-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190900806
      Abstract ( 309 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2842KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      In order to analyze the stress state of seed cotton in serrated ginning process and improve the quality of lint cotton, a new model of seeded cotton was proposed in this paper based on the existing model of seeded cotton and the fiber network configuration in the actual seeded cotton. The bundled fibers were simulated to have a circular cross-section throughout the length of the fiber along the axis. On the basis of the model, ANSYS Workbench was used to simulate the ginning process, and the influence of different sawtooth speed and cottonseed density on the ginning process was analyzed. It can be seen from the results that the greater the is sawtooth speed, the more severe is the impact of the cotton fiber, but higher sawtooth speed is prone to causing damages to the cotton fiber. The effect of sawtooth ginning is most obvious when the cotton seed density is 580 kg/m3. The error between the experimental and the simulated values is small, which shows the rationality of the model.

      Flow simulations of ring swirl nozzle under different inlet pressure conditions
      CHU Xi, QIU Hua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  33-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191206806
      Abstract ( 231 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3495KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to explore the distribution of flow field inside the swirl nozzle under different inlet pressure conditions, modeling and numerical simulation analysis of the nozzle were carried out by fluid analysis software STAR-CCM+ and ANSYS CFX. The velocity and pressure distribution cloud chart of the air flow in the swirl nozzle was obtained during spinning. The results show that the flow mechanism of the air through the inlet of the air passage follows the eddy current effect, and the airflow in the swirl shape flows out to both ends of the yarn passage, which slightly untwists the yarn and further reduces the hairiness. The comparison diagram of flow field inside the nozzle shows that the inlet pressure has no effect on the distribution of yarn stress, but the fluctuation amplitude of air pressure increases with inlet pressure is increased. The larger is the fluctuation amplitude, the more favorable it becomes for the wrapping of hairiness and the stronger is the wrapping effect on fiber bundles. However, it was found that the excessive air pressure will cause more fiber loss.

      Computerized color modification algorithm for color spinning based on spectral reflectance
      CHENG Lu, CHEN Tingting, CAO Jiqiang, WANG Ying, XIA Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191001406
      Abstract ( 280 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1433KB) ( 78 )   Save
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      This wor was carried out aiming to improve the color matching and proofing efficiency in color spinning. Based on the Friele optical model combined with the full spectrum matching color matching algorithm, which was applied in the actual production of a color spinning enterprise, the corresponding color correction algorithm was designed. Twenty-one standard samples were randomly determined, and 2-4 types of matching ratios were calculated and sampled from the existing 80 types of single-color cotton fibers. The average color difference of the 21 groups of samples was 2.36. The research results show that the average color difference of the fitting ratio is 1.215 after the first correction, in which the minimum color difference is 0.59; after the second correction of the ratio, the average color difference between the actual spinning samples and the standard samples drop to 0.67, and the color difference of each group is less than 1. It demonstrated that the designed color correction algorithm, which has high accuracy, is applicable for actual production.

      Influence of fabric weaves on characteristics of colored patterns in color-woven fabrics
      LIU Muli, YUAN Li, YANG Yali, LIU Junping, GONG Xue, YAN Yuchen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  45-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191100909
      Abstract ( 374 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2672KB) ( 119 )   Save
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      In view of difficulties in selecting yarns caused by changes in fabric structure parameters in color weaving process, a feature extraction algorithm for hybrid images was proposed based on the use of a uniform-model three structure descriptor. According to the cluster analysis theory, a coloration characteristics analytical model based on ″intra class distance″ was established, and it used for color transfer and characteristics description between colored spun yarns and its fabrics. The results show that the image feature extraction algorithm and the coloration characteristics analysis model have good colorimetry index representation and discrimination ability, for the colored spun yarns with different mass ratios and twisting coefficients, different weaving processes would reduce the color difference and stereoscopy. In addition, compared with the plain weave and satin weaves, twill weaves have the strongest ability to weaken the color difference of the fabric.

      Application of chair-tiling approach for fabric weave design
      JIN Yao, CAI Tenghao, LI Caiman, HU Yali, LU Jialiang, WANG Yi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  54-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190903505
      Abstract ( 344 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1994KB) ( 112 )   Save
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      To enrich the varieties of fabric weaves and expand its design space, the idea of tilings from the areas of mathematics and art is introduced and a chair-tiling approach for fabric weave design was experimented on. Based on the expansion-subdivision strategy, the space quad-tree was used to construct multi-layer chair tilings, creating space layout for fabric weaves. The space structure is tessellated with the designed tile-weave using geometric symmetry transformations, which led to the creation of the chair-tiling weaves. The simulation algorithm of the weave design method was implemented with C++ programming language and the research shows that the designed fabric weaves has some similarity with fractal fabric weaves such as self-similarity as well as hierarchical nesting and also holds its own special features, e.g. local symmetries and orderliness in the midst of disorder. This research demonstrated a new method for digitized design of fabric weaves.

      Fabric defect detection method based on primitive segmentation and Gabor filtering
      DI Lan, YANG Da, LIANG Jiuzhen, MA Mingyin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  59-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191204308
      Abstract ( 305 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4101KB) ( 96 )   Save
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      In order to deal with the complex fabric defect detection with periodic variation pattern, a fabric defect detection method based on primitive segmentation and Gabor filtering was proposed. The template size of the pattern unit was determined according to the periodic variation of the image texture, i.e. a lattice containing a periodic pattern. The image was adaptively segmented, and the image elements of the smaller unit are obtained by the primitive segmentation. The response distribution given by the Gabor filter to the convolutional lattice produced an ideal template lattice. According to the proposed voting procedure, the lattice of the defect is identified by analyzing the distribution of the lattice differences represented by the Manhattan distance of the eigenvectors. Experiments show that the method has better detection effect on the fabric samples of star and box patterns, and significantly reducing the recall rate of the samples.

      Characteristics and evolution of backed weave structure of brocade in ancient China
      PENG Xi, ZHOU Jiu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  67-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200409
      Abstract ( 790 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (3202KB) ( 168 )   Save
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      In order to build the weave structure system of the ancient China backed weave structure brocade and provide a reference for the innovation of modern brocade, the historical evolution of the backed weave structure brocade used in ancient China was studied according to historical documents. On this basis, the brocade was divided into four major types, i.e. dark-clip-type, no-knot-type, special-knot-type and ground-knot-type according to the connection characteristics of brocade weave structure. Meanwhile, the characteristics of the structure, pattern display and internal relationships of these four types of brocade were analyzed. It is found that the structural evolution generally shows that the ground weave is from non-existence to existence, the characteristics of connection is from no-yarn to dedicated yarn and then to ground-yarn, the way of pattern display is from warp to weft and then to warp and weft, and the float length is from short to long. The essence of the evolution has been to improve the performance and appearance of the backed weave structure brocade through optimizing the structure constantly, towards creating representative silk varieties in various historical periods.

      Sleeve-body connection technique for segmentation design of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweaters
      CHEN Xi, MIAO Xuhong, NIU Li, HAN Xiaoxue, JIANG Gaoming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  76-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191000205
      Abstract ( 1026 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1841KB) ( 47 )   Save
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      In order to develop whole-garment sweaters that meet the market demand by using the four-needle-bed flat knitting machine, this paper describes a segmental design method for sleeve-body connection taking the flat-sleeve sweater as an example. The process of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweater at the joint of sleeve and body was divided into three parts: sleeve-top and armhole narrow at the same time, sleeve-top narrows while armhole flat knit, flat sleeve-top narrows while armhole widens after flat knit. If the height difference between the sleeve-top and the armhole is large, a larger knitting ratio was used to compensate for the difference in the number of turns by knitting more body rows. The difference in curvature between the sleeve-top and the armhole of sweater was adjusted by increasing the narrowing number in the sleeve-top. According to the technological parameters of the sleeve-body of the sweater and the structural differences between the sleeve-top and the armhole, the knitting process of the sleeve-body joint of the whole-garment sweater has been developed, enabling the sweater to fit the body curve.

      Preparation and properties of microfiber synthetic leather base
      DUO Yongchao, QIAN Xiaoming, ZHAO Baobao, QIAN Yao, ZOU Zhiwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  81-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190704007
      Abstract ( 550 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (2364KB) ( 237 )   Save
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      In order to further improve the water-vapor transmission rate and softness of polyester/polyamide 6 (PET/PA6) hollow microfiber synthetic leather base, polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibers were mixed with PET/PA6 microfibers to prepare PAN-PET/PA6 micro/nano microfiber synthetic leather base by hydro-entanglement and alkali treatment. The effects of PAN nanofiber mass fraction on the air permeability, water vapor permeability, moisture absorption, softness and mechanical properties of leather base were analyzed. The results show that the water vapor permeability, moisture absorption, softness and tear strength were improved with the content of PAN nanofibers increase for the same areal density, but the air permeability and breaking strength were decreased. When the content of nanofibers was 20%, the water vapor permeability of the base was increased by 15.19%, the moisture absorption 23.53%, and the softness was increased by 38.17%. After alkali treatment, the hydrophilicity of base was obviously improved. The water vapor permeability was increased by 23.81%, the moisture absorption was increased by 42.26%, and the softness was increased by 23.20%.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Development and application of color change chromatography with thermochromic microcapsules
      WANG Liang, MA Xiaoguang, LI Junjun, YANG Zhou
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  88-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190703607
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2751KB) ( 208 )   Save
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      In order to address the problems of narrow chromatographic range and limited color of thermosensitive materials, the thermosensitive microcapsules obtained by in-situ polymerization method were used as the basic template for research. They were compared with the prepared red and yellow microcapsules for color-matching experiments. Through the principle of subtractive color mixing, microcapsules of different colors will present another color, fulfilling the purpose of chromatographic expansion. Electron microscopy and infrared spectroscopy results showed that thermosensitive color-changing microcapsules using formaldehyde-melamine resin as the wall material and triarylmethane-based basic color-changing system as the core material were a success. The color difference, reflectance, and K/S values of the color-matched samples were tested, and the results showed that the color of the microcapsule hybrid system also changed significantly with the change of the external temperature, achieving a reversible change between different shades and expanding

      Molecular dynamics simulation of solubility of C.I. Disperse Brown 19 in supercritical CO2 and water
      WANG Chunyi, WU Wei, WANG Jian, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  95-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191003007
      Abstract ( 264 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (2235KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to explore the solubility differences of disperse dyes in supercritical CO2 and water under their dyeing conditions, the solvation free energy and the binding free energy of C.I. Disperse Brown 19 in these two solvents were syudied, based on the molecular dynamics simulation, using thermodynamic integration method respectively, and the weak interaction between dye molecules and solvent molecules was examined by average noncovalent interaction method. The results showed that the absolute values of free energy of C.I. Disperse Brown 19 dye molecules in supercritical CO2 (24 MPa, 130 ℃) and water (0.25 MPa, 130 ℃) were small, whereas the absolute value of solvation free energy in supercritical CO2 was slightly less than that in water, and the absolute value of binding free energy was slightly greater than in water. The interactions (van der Waals force) between C.I. Disperse Brown 19 dye molecules and supercritical CO2 molecules and water molecules were both weak and unstable, and,the interactions between the dye molecule and the supercritical CO2 molecules were more unstable than that with water molecules.

      Graphene oxide loading on polyester fabrics and antistatic properties
      LI Liang, LIU Jingfang, HU Zedong, GENG Changjun, LIU Rangtong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  102-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803606
      Abstract ( 496 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2436KB) ( 253 )   Save
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      In order to solve the electrostatic problem of polyester fabrics, the polyester fabric specimens was cyclically impregnated in graphene oxide solution after treated by in-situ polymerization of dopamine. The structure and antistatic property of the polyester fabric were characterized by scanning electron microscope, infrared spectrometer and fabric electrostatic tester. The results show that the introduction of dopamine is beneficial to the loading of graphene oxide, and the hydrophilic groups are increased to improve the antistatic performance of polyester fabric after treatment. When the graphene concentration keeps lower than 20 g/L, with the increase of graphene oxide concentration, the antistatic property of the fabric is gradually improved. When the concentration of graphene oxide is 15 g/L, the surface static voltage and half-life of the plain polyester fabric are 1 156 V and 1.210 s respectively, while that of twill polyester fabric are 1 243 V and 1.510 s. After 15 cycles of washing, the surface static voltage and half-life of the plain polyester fabric could still reach 1 179 V and 1.290 s, while that of twill can also reach 1 263 V and 1.580 s.

      Apparel Engineering
      Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits
      LING Yali, ZHU Lingxuan, SHAO Xiaoxuan, LI Zehui, ZHONG Anhua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  108-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107
      Abstract ( 553 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1910KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making, an automatic generation system for suits' pattern was developed. Firstly, 30 classic men's suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study. Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits, the principal component factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS. Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis, the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established. MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system, combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making. The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits' pattern, and the correlation between front length, back length, waist circumference, hem circumference and bust is the strongest. The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern, and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust, facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men's suits.

      Application of tangram principles in fashion design
      LI Qian, QIANG Kexin, PENG Jiayu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  114-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191004405
      Abstract ( 765 )   HTML ( 39 )   PDF (2100KB) ( 230 )   Save
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      This paper explores innovative ideas using tangram principles for broadening clothing design, based on the analysis of the basic styles of the clothing outline, by linearizing and deconstructing the contour line of clothing into geometric figures. Firstly, we determine the control part and design part, find the tangram block matching the size of the control part, and then ″position and form″ the main structure of clothing. Secondly, we set the symmetry axis from the front center line or side seam line. The design part is creating new combination groups based on the block of control part and the geometric figures of clothing after deconstruction to achieve the variety of the garment silhouette through the experiment of three mini dress of grey cloth and one garment product. The results show that the combination and interaction of tangram are able to achieve different shapes of clothing and meet the basic functions of the human body, and it is especially of indictive significance in the fashion-forward loose and creative clothing design.

      Design and ergonomic evaluation of flexible rehabilitation gloves
      SHEN Jinzhu, ZHAO Xiaolu, ZHANG Fan, YU Qing, SU Junqiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  119-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190901509
      Abstract ( 469 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2887KB) ( 316 )   Save
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      In order to improve the comfort of flexible rehabilitation gloves and speed up the rehabilitation process, a clinical investigation on the comfort of flexible rehabilitation gloves was carried out. Four design elements, i.e. functionality, fabric construction, structural paraameters and visual perception, were realized affecting the comfort of the gloves. On this basis, an improved rehabilitation glove was developed with three types of soft robotic fingers were used for evaluation. On this platform, objective evaluations were carried out for finger bending strength, friction coefficient between fabric and skin, air permeability and moisture permeability of fabric. In parallel, two subjective evaluation experiments of contact comfort and structural ergonomics of glove fabric were carried out. It was found that the suitable working pressure of the rehabilitation glove ranges from 40 to 120 kPa. When the gloves were pressurized with 40 kPa, the maximum compression on the thumb, the little finger and the other fingers was 2.94 N, 1.77 N and 1.96 N, respectively, demonstrating a preliminary rehabilitation effect. Furthermore, the fabric contact comfort score was 6.63, which shows that the gloves were comfortable to wear. The gloves were found convenient to wear, not limiting the normal functions of fingers.

      Research on online-to-offline clothing customization mode based on consumer perceived value
      LI Hao, GU Liwen, GU Wen, LIU Xiaogang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  128-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200308
      Abstract ( 489 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2892KB) ( 229 )   Save
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      In order to analyze the impact of consumer perceived value on O2O (online-to-offline) clothing customization mode, the current status of domestic O2O clothing customization brands was discussed. Through literature review, case analysis, group discussion and other methods, the measurement dimensions of consumer perceived value under O2O clothing customization mode were constructed, and the conceptual mode of each measurement dimension affecting consumer purchase intention was used to propose relevant hypotheses. Factor analysis of the 589 collected valid questionnaire feedbacks showed that each of the measurement dimensions has good reliability and validity. The structural equation model was used to test the research hypothesis. The fit indices showed that the model fit was good, and hence the hypotheses were verified. Among the measurement dimensions of consumer perceived value, the professional ability perceived by consumers has the greatest effect on consumer willingness-to-buy, while the emotional value perceived by consumers has the smallest effect on purchase willingness. Finally, an O2O clothing customization mode based on the consumer perceived value was proposed to provide a theoretical reference for the current O2O clothing customization enterprises.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Study on magnetic field distribution in permanent magnetic needle drive using hybrid magnetic suspension needle
      LI Dongdong, ZHANG Chengjun, ZUO Xiaoyan, ZHANG Chi, LI Hongjun, ZHOU Xiangyang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191201607
      Abstract ( 303 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2637KB) ( 80 )   Save
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      In order to study the spatial magnetic field distribution with mixed magnetic suspension for driving flat-bed knitting needles, two permanent magnet needles in cylindrical and rectangular shapes were constructed. According to the ampere loop theorem that permanent magnets are equivalent to vertical coil current loop structure, knitting needle was deduced based on the vertical movement to the space location of the magnetic induction intensity. On the basis of the above, finite element electromagnetic simulation was carried out to simulate the model of permanent magnet knitting needles, and an experimental measuring platform for the spatial magnetic field strength of knitting needles was built for numerical measurement. Through the comparison of model, simulation and experimental measurement results, it is shown that in cylindrical permanent magnetic knitting needles, the larger the thickness-diameter ratio is, the greater the magnetic induction intensity becomes. In rectangular permanent magnetic knitting needles, the magnetic induction intensity with constant thickness decreases as the aspect ratio increases.

      Motion analysis and parameter design of tool setting process in automatic scraping
      DING Caihong, LI Shucheng, WU Xiru
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  143-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191205906
      Abstract ( 276 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2117KB) ( 37 )   Save
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      In order to make the scraper approach fast to the spinneret and press on the spinneret surface with no damage to the spinneret surface or the scraper in the process of the automatic scraping, this research was focused on the motion analysis and parameter planning of the tool setting motion. By analyzing the motion process of the automatic scraping system, the tool setting for scraper movement was described as a consistent motion with four key position nodes, and scheduled with a trapezoidal speed control curve. The contact mechanics model of scraper and spinneret was established according to Hertz contact theory. Through the qualitative analysis on scraper and spinneret damage, basis for the motion parameter design was set up so that the damage on the scraper would not occur during the motion. Consequently, the mathematical relationships of the setting speed of the scraper with force, deformation and total time in collision between the scraper and the spinneret surface, were individually obtained through the collision analysis. Taking a scraper with the radius curvature being 0.2 mm as an example, the maximum tool setting speed and the maximum collision force were calculated by MatLab under the condition that maximum damage allowed to the blade of the scraper was 0.1 mm, thus completing the motion parameter design. The results reported in this paper will also be used for the further structural design of the scraping component as a necessary design reference.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in antibacterial substances from Apocynum venetum and their antibacterial mechanism
      XU Xuanxuan, GONG Jixian, ZHANG Jianfei, WANG Li, HUANG Jingfeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191000506
      Abstract ( 333 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (987KB) ( 117 )   Save
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      In order to elucidate the material basis for antibacterial property of Apocynum venetum (A. venetum) and facilitate the development and application of A. venetum fiber in medical and healthcare textiles, antibacterial substances in the bast of A. venetum and its technical fiber were reviewed and summarized including flavonoids, tannins, steroids, steroid glycosides, coumarins, phenolic acids, benzaldehydes, fatty acids and essential oils. The chemical composition and antibacterial activity of antibacterial substances were analyzed. Antibacterial mechanisms including inhibition of nucleic acid synthesis, membrane damage of the cell, inhibition of energy metabolism, effect on fatty acid synthesis, inhibition of migration, disrupting electron transport chain, inhibition of activity of bacterial enzymes, reduction in the absorption of nutrients and generation of toxic peroxidation and auto-oxidation degradation products were also highlighted. Finally, focusing on the problem of the origin of antibacterial substances of A. venetum fiber, it was pointed out that evolution of functional ingredients in the bast during degumming process should become an important direction for future study.

      Research and development of textile color measurement based on imaging technologies
      QIU Kebin, CHEN Weiguo, ZHOU Hua, YING Shuangshuang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  155-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191004807
      Abstract ( 370 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1347KB) ( 200 )   Save
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      Fast, accurate and efficient methods of textile color measurement have always been actively sought in the textile field, and imaging technologies have been applied for textile color measurement. This paper reviews and introduces characteristics of the photoelectric integration and spectrophotometry, as well as their limitations in the color measurement of textiles. The imaging characteristics of digital camera, multispectral imaging, and hyperspectral imaging were described, and the effects of camera color characterization, spectral reconstruction algorithm, and image segmentation method on textile color measurement were analyzed, leading to the the summary of research results and applications in the field of textile color measurement. This review paper also presents the prospective views on future developments in textile color measurement from the perspective of the characteristics of textile colors, the requirements of textile color measurement, and the advantages of ″spectral integration″ of hyperspectral imaging technology, the development direction of hyperspectral imaging technology.

      Column: Biomedical Textile Materials and It′s Products
      Preparation and in vitro inflammation evaluation of polydopamine coated polypropylene hernia mesh
      QIAO Yansha, WANG Qian, LI Yan, SANG Jiawen, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  162-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200202205
      Abstract ( 488 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1567KB) ( 161 )   Save
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      To reduce the possibility of inflammation with the use of polypropylene (PP) hernia mesh, dopamine was oxidized and self-polymerized for the preparation of an anti-inflammatory polydopamine (PDA) coating on the surface of PP monofilament. The micro-morphology, surface composition, water contact angle, coating stability, mechanical property, in vitro anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of PDA-PP were characterized and analyzed. The results show that PDA formed a coating of micro-nano particles with uniform distribution on PP fiber surfaces, and the coating changed physicochemical properties of PP mesh. Meanwhile, the original mechanical property of PP mesh is not affected by the PDA coating, and the antioxidant ability and good stability of the PDA coated PP mesh meet the needs of the initial inflammatory regulation. The protein expression level of the inflammation marker TNF-α and IL-6 at 24 h indicate a 93% and 100% lower expression levels for macrophages adhered PDA-PP mesh than that of the PP mesh, respectively. The PDA-PP mesh is expected for clinical evaluation studies next.

      Preparation of polycaprolactone/polyethylene glycol nanofiber membranes with large pore sizes and its application for tissue engineering scaffold
      PAN Lu, CHENG Tingting, XU Lan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  167-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200307807
      Abstract ( 372 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (3305KB) ( 140 )   Save
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      In order to improve the growth and adhesion of cells on electrospun nanofiber scaffolds, a modified electrospinning (ES) device was used to prepare polycaprolactone (PLC)/polyethylene glycol (PEG) composite nanofiber membranes (CNFMs) with large pore sizes, aiming for good biocompatibility. The influences of the composition and mass fraction of spinning solution on the morphology and properties of the CNFMs were investigated, and the optimal spinning parameters were determined. The CNFMs obtained using the modified ES under the optimal conditions were taken as tissue engineering scaffold, and the cytocompatibility of the CNFMs was compared with that of the CNFMs prepared by the traditional ES. The results show that when the blend mass ratio of PLC and PEG is 80∶20 and the mass fraction of spinning solution is 25%, the quality of PCL/PEG CNFMs with large pore sizes is the best. Moreover, compared with the PCL/PEG CNFMs obtained by the traditional ES, the PCL/PEG CNFMs with large pore sizes supply a more conducive environment for the cell growth and proliferation, and are more suitable to be used as tissue engineering scaffold materials.

      Preparation and cytotoxicity analysis of flexible metal electrodes for medical dressings
      HAN Jiarui, HUANG Zhenzhen, WANG Jiajun, YIN Hao, GAO Jing, LAO Jihong, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  174-182.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191104309
      Abstract ( 272 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (4513KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      In order to study the feasibility and safety of the preparation of flexible metal electrodes for medical dressings, a flexible micro-current biomedical dressing was prepared, taking a polyester nonwoven fabric as the base fabric, by the screen printing technique, where zinc was used for the negative electrode and silver the positive. The effects of dispersant type, dispersant content and binder content on the electrical properties of the metal electrodes were discussed, and the possible cytotoxicity problems caused by the metal electrodes were studied. The results show that the screen printing technique made the silver and zinc micro-nano particles adhere to the fabric surface uniformly. 1% carboxy methyl cellulose sodium(CMC) and 0.5% Tween-80 are found to be the optimal condition for good dispersion of the zinc and silver particles. Waterborne acrylic emulsion with mass fraction of 5% and 15% enabled zinc and silver metal electrodes to have excellent electrical properties respectively. The metal electrodes show good cytocompatibility with 0.5%-1.0% metal content, which is suitable for biomedical dressings to provide exogenous micro-current for the wound.

      Clinical applications of silver containing alginate wound dressings
      QIN Yimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  183-190.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191205108
      Abstract ( 755 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2138KB) ( 313 )   Save
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      In order to promote the applications of silver containing alginate fibers and develop functional wound dressings with high absorbency and strong antimicrobial properties, this paper introduced the main varieties, production methods, product properties and applications of silver containing fibers and wound dressings in the international market, and summarized their efficacy in reducing the re-infection ratio through control of wound infection, relieving pain through suppression of bacteria growth, shortening treatment cycle through the promotion of healing and reducing the treatment cost and other outstanding benefits. Combining the latest clinical research results from around the world, this paper outlined the clinical values of silver containing alginate fibers and wound dressings in the management of infected wound, burn wound, clinical incision, diabetic foot ulcer, leg ulcer, pressure sore and other types of wounds.

      Research progress on medical textiles
      YAN Jia, LI Gang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(09):  191-200.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200405610
      Abstract ( 850 )   HTML ( 76 )   PDF (1740KB) ( 495 )   Save
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      In order to develop medical textiles with good biocompatibility, safety, effectiveness and stability, this paper reviews comprehensively on the types, composition forms, physical and biological properties, advantages and disadvantages of medical textiles and their raw materials. The research progress in commonly used preparation and processing technologies, surface treatment methods and chemical modification technologies for medical textiles were introduced. Future development demands and trends of medical textiles together with the main problems and opportunities were analyzed. It is concluded that natural and synthetic biomaterials are being widely used in medical textiles, which are easy to process and degradable. They have good mechanical properties and biocompatibility, making medical textiles suitable for in vivo implantation and soft tissue repair, healthcare and hygiene and other related fields. Medical textiles involve multi-disciplinary knowledge, and require multi-disciplinary teams of talents in biomaterials, textiles, and clinical medicine to work together for innovation.