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Table of Content

    15 October 2020, Volume 41 Issue 10
    • Fiber Materials
      Effect of oligomers on crystalline properties of polytrimethylene terephthalate
      CHEN Yong, WANG Jingjing, WANG Chaosheng, GU Donghua, WU Jing, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200100606
      Abstract ( 374 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1075KB) ( 265 )   Save
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      Step-polymerization of polymers usually contains a certain proportion of linear and circular oligomers, which will affect the forming process of fiber materials, fiber properties, textile processing and so on. To investigate the influence of oligomers on the crystallization properties of bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), bio-based PTT samples with varied oligomer contents (mainly comprising cyclic dimers) were prepared by adding the extracted oligomers into relatively pure PTT samples. Differential scanning calorimetry analysis was used to study the crystallization kinetics of bio-based PTT polyesters. The results show that the existence of oligomer mainly acts as nucleating agent, and the increase of its mass fraction can significantly increase the crystallization rate, the crystallization temperature and crystallinity of bio-based PTT. When the mass fraction of oligomer is 10%, the crystallization rate constant of PTT increased from 0.528 to 0.603, while the crystallization temperature increased from 172.11 ℃ to 178.85 ℃.

      Hydrogen bonding mechanism and properties of polyvinyl alcohol/krill protein fibers
      GUAN Fucheng, GUO Jing, LÜ Lihua, TAN Qian, SONG Jingxing, ZHANG Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  7-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200202707
      Abstract ( 387 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (4588KB) ( 210 )   Save
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      To solve the difficult thermoplastic processing and single function of polyvinyl alcohol(PVA), krill protein(AKP) and water were used as plasticizers to prepare PVA/AKP fibers by melt spinning. The hydrogen bonding in PVA/AKP fiber was characterized by infrared spectrometer, and the mechanism of hydrogen bonding was analyzed. Additionally, the crystallinity, morphology, thermal properties and mechanical properties of PVA/AKP fibers were characterized by X-ray diffractometer, scanning electron microscope, differential scanning calorimeter and single fiber strength tester, respectively. The results show that with the increase of AKP mass fraction, the content of intramolecular hydrogen bond and crystallinity of PVA/AKP fibers firstly increases and then decreases. When the mass fraction of AKP is 2%, the content of intramolecular hydrogen bond in PVA/AKP fibers reaches the maximum value (85.37%), and the crystallinity also reaches the maximum value (48%), and the fiber breakage strength reaches a maximum of 2.15 cN/dtex. AKP is helpful to improve the surface smoothness of the fiber, the fiber cross section presents regular round. Additionally, PVA/AKP fibers are more responsive to alkaline solutions, and the water absorption rate of the fiber is a constant of 36% after 2 h.

      One-pot synthesis and characterization of aminated cellulose nanocrystals
      LU Linna, LI Yonggui, LU Qilin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  14-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190902506
      Abstract ( 500 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1995KB) ( 246 )   Save
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      In order to realize green preparation of nanocellulose derivatives, ammonium persulfate was used to oxidize bamboo pulp fibers to obtain carboxylated nanocellulose (CNC) under microwave-hydrothermal condition based on mechanical force chemistry. Then condensation reaction between CNC and diethylenetriamine was carried out in the aqueous phase to realize the one-pot synthesis of aminated nanocellulose (ACNC), and its properties were explored. The results show that ACNC is rod-shaped with a diameter of 10-40 nm and a length of 50-300 nm, and the grafting ratio of ACNC is 6.29%. The crystal form of ACNC is still cellulose type I, besides the crystallinity increases from 59% to 79%. The thermal stability of ACNC is not significantly lower than that of bamboo fiber, but it is significantly higher than that of CNC, indicating that the thermal stability of CNC is improved after grafting amino groups. The preparation method is green and efficient, and the obtained cellulose derivatives are expected to play a role in the field of biosolidification and physical property enhancement.

      Filtrations of propylene-based micro-nano elastic filters via melt blowing process
      SUN Huanwei, ZHANG Heng, ZHEN Qi, ZHU Feichao, QIAN Xiaoming, CUI Jingqiang, ZHANG Yifeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  20-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200204109
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (3679KB) ( 186 )   Save
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      In order to enhance the elasticity of polypropylene (PP) melt blown nonwovens to solve brittleness and poor tensile strength when used as filters, samples of PBE/PP micro-nano fibrous materials reinforced with propylene-based elastomer (PBE) were prepared through the blending melt blowing process. The thermal properties and rheological properties of the PBE/PP blends were tested and the effects of PBE mass ratio and melt blowing process parameters on elasticity and filtration properties of the samples were studied. The results show that the melting peak of the blends decreases from 173.6 ℃ to 165.1 ℃ and the crystallinity gradually decreases from 39.0% to 9.8% as the PBE mass ratio is increased to 85%. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) images show that the fiber diameter (df) distribution indicates binary feature in the range of 0.4-16 μm. The fine fibers are interspersed with the coarse ones to form a three-dimensional tortuous "embed" network. As the mass fraction of PBE increases to 85%, the proportion of the fine fibers with df of less than 2 μm increases to 68.3%, and the elastic recovery rate of the samples in the machine direction and cross direction increases to 81.8% and 79.1%, respectively. The filtration efficiency increases by about 1.8 times, and the hydrostatic pressure resistance increases to 4 699.6 Pa.

      Analysis on acoustic absorption performance of activated carbon fiber felts with gradient structure
      SHEN Yue, JIANG Gaoming, LIU Qixia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  29-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191205805
      Abstract ( 270 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1647KB) ( 150 )   Save
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      In order to study the acoustic absorption properties of activated carbon fiber felts with gradient structure, five viscose based activated carbon fiber felts with different densities were selected and coupled into gradient structure. The impedance tube was used to test the normal incidence acoustic absorption coefficient of activated carbon fiber felts with gradient structure within 250-6 300 Hz accoustic waves. Factors impacting on the acoustic absorption performance of samples were explored by analyzing the effect of gradient direction, density and structures. The results show that under the same density, the acoustic absorption performance of the single structure at low frequency is better than that of the positive gradient structure, but worse than that of the inverted gradient structure. In the high frequency band, the acoustic absorption performance of the single structure is worse than that of the positive gradient structure, but better than that of the inverted gradient structure. In the case of different densities, the acoustic absorption coefficient increases as the total density of the gradient structure is increased in the low frequency band. In the high frequency band, the acoustic absorption coefficient decreases as the density of the first layer of the gradient structure is increased. As the density of the first layer increases, the first resonant frequency moves towards low direction. As the total density increases, the first resonance absorption coefficient increases.

      Textile Engineering
      Research on color grading of seed cotton based on neural network
      XU Shoudong, LENG Yijin, WU Guoxin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  34-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190502707
      Abstract ( 347 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1713KB) ( 130 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of color classifying for seed cotton, a detection device based on L *a*b* color space, which is mainly composed of color sensor, light source and peripheral circuit, was designed. Aiming at the unstable output of reflectance and yellowness, which are very important for color grading, a four layers BP neural network was used and trained repeatedly with 5 standard color boards. After the calibration, the rectified reflectance has coefficient of variation with less than 0.21% and the rectified yellowness has coefficient of variation with less than 1.13%. In the next experiment,480 specimen of seed cotton which cover up 12 color grades is prepared. After repeated experiments, it is found that the average value of 10 measurement points, which are evenly distributed in one specimen, could be used as color value for a test sample. Finally, a neural network was applied to analyze the 480 seed cotton sample data, of which 80% was used for training and 20% for identification. Experiment results show that the detection accuracy is more than 90% for all 12 color grades.

      Characterization of wrinkle recovery of fabrics based on in-situ mechanical testing
      HU Xiaorui, SUN Fengxin, XIAO Caiqin, GAO Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  41-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200204705
      Abstract ( 271 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1888KB) ( 115 )   Save
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      In-situ mechanical testing was proposed to evaluate the wrinkle recovery behaviour of fabrics, aiming to overcome the main shortcomings in the existing wrinkle recovery angle testing method and smoothness appearance method in terms of applicability and stability of the measurement. By interpreting the testing process and principle of in-situ mechanical test, three feature indices were extracted for characterizing wrinkle recovery behaviour of fabrics. The reliability and stability of the mechanical method was proved by comparing the significant coefficients of variation between the featured indices and wrinkle recovery angles at the 0.01 level. The correlation analysis was also carried out, and it is proved that the in-situ mechanical test is an efficient method to assess the wrinkle recovery of fabrics. In addition, multiple regression model is established, which could be useful in the comprehensive evaluation of wrinkle recovery properties objectively.

      Fabric matching based on three-dimensional drape model and fabric weight
      YU Zhicai, ZHONG Yueqi, GONG R Hugh, XIE Haoyang, HUSSAIN Azmat
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  46-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190306806
      Abstract ( 393 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (4181KB) ( 153 )   Save
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      In order to match a fabric to a given category based on draping characteristics, this study was started by creating three-dimensional point cloud of a draped fabric using a self-built three-dimensional scanning device. The local linear embedding (LLE) was used to resample the draped fabric based on the point cloud organized following triangulation. With resampling,different fabrics were represented by the same number of points and topology. Two methods were proposed to characterize fabrics with the fabric drape models, i.e., matching fabrics with three fabric drape indicators as well as fabric weight and matching fabrics with the statistical histogram of the curvature as well as fabric weight. Eventually, the similarity between fabric mechanical properties was used to estimate the accuracy of fabric matching. The results show that the accuracy of fabric matching based on three fabric drape indicators as well as fabric weight is 86.91%, whereas that based on the statistical histogram of curvature combined with fabric weight reaches 93.79%.

      Pattern forming method of flat-knitted socks with section-dyed yarn
      XU Yanhua, YUAN Xinlin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  52-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190902206
      Abstract ( 324 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (17546KB) ( 47 )   Save
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      In order to provide theoretical reference for the pattern design of flat-knitted socks using section-dyed yarn, the distribution regularities of a section-dyed yarn in the tubular fabric produced using the circular knitting was described. It is indicated that the distribution regularity is imitated by the cylindrical helix. A MatLab procedure was used to simulate the pattern of the tubular fabric made from the section-dyed yarn, and it is shown that the simulated patterns have a good agreement with the real tubular fabric patterns. Based on the achievement, several pattern forming methods based on the use of flat knitting machines were proposed and used for creating patterns for flat-knitted socks. The results show that various patterns could be formed when the distribution regularity of the section-dyed yarn is combined with the circular knitting method of the tubular fabric. The pattern shape could be determined by the proportional relationship between the length of yarn used in a circular course and color segment cycle. The patterns of the tubular fabric could be simulated adopting cylindrical helix using MatLab. The pattern of the flat-knitted socks is obtained by changing the stitch length and by selecting the section-dyed yarn.

      Fabric defect detection based on similarity location and superpixel segmentation
      ZHU Lei, REN Mengfan, PAN Yang, LI Botao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  58-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200102909
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (8370KB) ( 190 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem in defect detection and accurate contour segmentation of periodic texture fabric image, a method of fabric defect detection was proposed based on similarity location and superpixel segmentation techniques. The median filter and logarithm enhancement were applied for the detected image, and the saliency image of the enhancement image was estimated by frequency-tuned algorithm to facilitate the preprocessing of the detected image. Combining gray similarity detection parameters based on the normalized local mean difference with structural similarity detection parameters, a similarity metric function capable of measuring more types of periodic texture fabric images was constructed. The rough localization of defects was identified by thresholding the similarity measurement value of the enhancement image blocks. Finally, superpixel fine segmentation and binarization were performed on the rough localization image blocks, and the outliers were eliminated via connected domain analysis to obtain a complete defect contour. The experimental results show that, compared with the three conrentional methods, the proposed method has a higher accuracy in detecting the defects in the periodic texture fabric image, and the extracted defect contour is more accurate.

      Multi-scale simulation of impact failure behavior for 4- and 5-directional 3-D braided composites
      FENG Duanpei, SHANG Yuanyuan, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  67-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190902007
      Abstract ( 536 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (5085KB) ( 158 )   Save
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      In order to simulate and predict the complex mechanical characteristics of 3-D braided composites against impact, a multi-scale meso-structure method was used to establish an equivalent combination model of 3-D braided composites to study impact behavior of braided composites. Impact damage evolution, crack propagation and energy absorption were examined numerically. 4- and 5-directional 3-D braided structures were used to prepare braided composites, and the equivalent combination model was established according to the obtained braid parameters. A drop weight impact tester equipped with a high-speed camera was used to record the fracture behavior of the 4-directional 3-D and 5-directional 3-D braided composites under low-speed impact. The 3-D braided composite equivalent combination models were validated by the fracture behavior obtained from the experiments. The simulation results show that under the same volume fraction, the axial yarn exhibits the highest energy absorption. Due to the presence of axial yarns, the 5-directional 3-D braided composites have better crack resistance and crack propagation than the 4-directional 3-D braided composites.

      Energy dissipation evolution of jute fabric/polyethylene composite under cyclic stress relaxation
      WANG Zexing, WU Bo, LI Shuai, HE Bin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  74-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203007
      Abstract ( 328 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1619KB) ( 249 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the energy dissipation characteristics of jute fiber reinforced thermoplastic composite under complex stress conditions, jute fabric/polyethylene composites were prepared using hot pressing with jute fabric as reinforcement and polyethylene film as matrix. The mechanical properties under cyclic stress relaxation were tested,and the effects of stress relaxation time, peak cyclic stress and cyclic number on evolution of the strain energy (total strain energy, elastic strain energy, plastic strain energy) and strain energy factor (recoverable and unrecoverable strain energy factor) were also analyzed. The results show that deformation mechanism and energy dissipation evolution of warp and fill specimen have good agreement. The strain energy and strain energy factor are governed by stress relaxation time, peak cyclic stress, and as well as cyclic number. Moreover, it is found that the elastic strain energy under cyclic stress relaxation is different from that under simple cyclic loading without stress relaxation.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Preparation of phosphorylated-caproylated starch and its membrane properties
      LI Wei, ZHANG Zhengqiao, WU Lanjuan, XU Zhenzhen, NI Qingqing, LU Yuhao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  81-86.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191106806
      Abstract ( 335 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2155KB) ( 114 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the brittleness of starch membrane for promoting the application effect of starch in warp sizing, starch was phosphorylated with sodium tripolyphosphate and then caproylated with caproic anhydride. The influence of double esterification on the tensile properties of starch membrane was investigated in terms of tensile strength, elongation at break and time required for breaking the membrane. The starch membranes before and after modification were analyzed using X-ray diffraction. The experimental results show that the phosphorylation-caproylation could not only reduce the crystallinity of starch membrane, significantly increase the elongation and decrease the strength of starch membrane, thus reducing the membrane brittleness and improving its toughness, but could also improve the water-solubility. With the increase in total degree of substitution from 0.028 to 0.059, the elongation of phosphorylation-caproylation starch (PCS) membrane increases from 3.15% to 3.91% and the strength decreases from 32.8 MPa to 28.1 MPa, indicating the reduction of the brittleness is gradually enhanced.

      Photosensitizers sensitized Cu-organic framework for highly efficient photocatalytic degradation of Reactive Dark Blue K-R
      LI Qing, GUAN Binbin, WANG Ya, LIU Tianhui, ZHANG Luohong, FAN Zenglu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  87-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191202907
      Abstract ( 399 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1799KB) ( 296 )   Save
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      Three-dimensional porous Cu-organic skeleton material (Cu-MOF) was synthesized from the reaction of copper nitrate and 4,4',4″-[1,3,5-benzenetriyltris(carbonylimino)] trisbenzoic acid (H3L) to address the challenge of water pollution caused by reactive dyes containing wastewater by virtue of photocatalytic degradation. The thermal weight loss properties of the Cu-MOF were studied by thermal weight loss analysis and the powder X-ray diffraction analysis to confirm its structural characteristics. Then, the Cu-MOF was sensitized by methyl orange (MO) and methylene blue (MB) with different visible light absorption capacity, providing two kinds of composites to improve the photocatalytic degradation efficiency. The studies reveal that Cu-MOF and its composites MO-Cu-MOF and MB-Cu-MOF (10 mg) performs the visible photocatalytic degradation efficiency of 42.4%, 76.2% and 88.4%, with corresponding photocatalytic rate constants of 0.029 h-1, 0.082 h-1 and 0.122 h-1, respectively, towards Reactive Dark Blue K-R(RB13) and the optimal pH value is 8. After five cycles of photocatalytic degradation, the degradation efficiency of MB-Cu-MOF towards RB13 still reaches 75.1%.

      Modification of down by zirconium ion with phytic acid and its thermal insulation performance
      YING Lili, LI Changlong, WANG Zongqian, WANG Dengfeng, WU Kaiming, XIE Wei, CHENG Huan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  94-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200101907
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (8781KB) ( 371 )   Save
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      Zirconium ion (Zr4+) modification can improve the thermal insulation of down. For further improving the Zr4+ load to shorten the modification process, the Zr4+modified functional down was prepared through phytic acid pretreatment and direct impregnation with zirconium sulfate solution based on chelating adsorption. The modified down was characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction spectrometer, inductively coupled plasma spectrometer and infrared spectroscopy and so on. Meanwhile, far-infrared radiation calorimeter and flat insulation meter were used to test the infrared temperature rise and thermal insulation performance of down before and after modification. The results show that the original feather twigs and the angles are not damaged by the Zr4+ modification with the pretreatment of phytic acid, while the fluffy, cleanliness and residual fat ratio of modified down are found to meet the requirements of the down standard. The adsorption capacity to Zr4+of the treated down is significantly enhanced, and the infrared temperature rise and heat preservation coefficient of the modified down are increased by 40% and 8.1%, respectively. The Zr4+, phytic acid and down fibers are mainly combined by covalent chelation, which has excellent washing fastness, and the load of Zr4+ on down fibers maintains a high level after 9 times of washing.

      Preparation and electric storage performance of stretchable polypyrrole/cotton knitted fabric
      WANG Bo, FAN Lihua, YUAN Yun, YIN Yunjie, WANG Chaoxia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  101-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191102506
      Abstract ( 320 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4247KB) ( 73 )   Save
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      To endow knitted cotton fabrics with new function such as conductance and electricity storage for wearable devices, pyrrole monomers were in-situ polymerized on a knitted cotton fabric to fabricate the polypyrrole/cotton knitted fabric. Scanning electron microscope and Fourier transform infrared spectra were used to detect the morphologies and chemical structures of the polypyrrole/cotton knitted fabric. The surface resistances and the electrochemical performances of polypyrrole/cotton knitted fabric at different tensile strain were also measured. The results show that sufficient polypyrrole is coated on knitted cotton fibers, and the surface resistances decreases from 429.2 Ω to 231.4 Ω when the strain is changed from 0% to 40%. The areal capacitance of the polypyrrole/cotton knitted fabric is 680.6 mF/cm 2 at the scan rate of 5 mV/s, and is 1 014.2 mF/cm2 at the current density of 2 mA/cm2. The symmetric supercapacitor device prepared from the polypyrrole/cotton knitted fabric shows an areal capacitance of 229.8 mF/cm2 at 1 mA/cm2 and 161.5 mF/cm2 at 5 mA/cm2, and this device exhibits a capacitance retention of 76.3% after 10 000 galvanostatic charging/discharging cycles.

      Preparation of durable flame retardant polyacrylonitrile fabrics using UV-induced photo-grafting polymerization combined with sol-gel coating
      WANG Yang, CHENG Chunzu, JIANG Li'na, REN Yuanlin, GUO Yingbin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  107-115.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191001309
      Abstract ( 275 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (6420KB) ( 353 )   Save
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      In view of the poor flammability of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) and environmental problems caused by traditional flame retardant technologies, ultraviolet (UV)-induced photo-grafting polymerization combined with sol-gel technology was used to improve the flame resistance of PAN fabrics. A PAN fabric grafted with glycidyl methacrylate (GMA) was firstly prepared by means of UV-induced photo-grafting polymerization technology. The PAN-g-GMA was then coated with an organic-inorganic hybrid silica sol doped with phytic acid and urea to obtain a flame retardant PAN fabric. The thermogravimetric analysis and cone calorimeter test were used to characterize the thermal and combustion properties. The results show that the char residue of the FR-PAN is as high as 31.4%. In addition, the peak of heat release rateand the peak of smoke production rate of flame retardant PAN fabrics decreases from 374.4 kW/m2 and 0.06 m2/s to 186.7 kW/m2 and 0.03 m2/s, respectively. All the results indicate that the FR-PAN fabric performs excellently in flame retardancy and demonstrate good smoke suppression performance. The limiting oxygen index value of the flame retardant PAN fabric remains 27.3% after 30 times washing cycles, indicating good durable flame retardant performance.

      Preparation and characterization of conductive polyester nonwovens
      WANG Qiuping, ZHANG Ruiping, LI Chenghong, ZHANG Gecheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  116-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190904606
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2608KB) ( 149 )   Save
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      In order to develop intelligent flexible sensors and metallized conductive textile materials with special protection functions, nickel-plated polyester nonwovens were prepared by high-temperature palladium-free active nickel source and electroless plating. The effects of plating temperature, pH value, plating time and main salt concentration on the resistance of polyester nonwovens were analyzed, and the best plating parameters was optimized. The conductivity, heat preservation and electromagnetic radiation resistance of the coated nonwovens were tested. The results show that the optimal condition for electroless plating process of nonwoven fabrics is as follows: the concentration of the main salt of electroless nickel plating is 0.1 mol/L, the plating temperature is 50 ℃, the pH value is 9, and the time is 60 min. The resistance of nickel-plated nonwovens decreases to 0.114 Ω/□, indicating excellent conductivity. After nickel plating, the thermal resistance of nonwovens is improved, the clo value is increased, the heat transfer coefficient decreases, and the shielding efficiency increase in the range of 100-3 000 MHz, which has better heat preservation and anti-electromagnetic radiation performance. The coating on the surface of polyester fibers is found compact and smooth, and the main component of the coating is nickel.

      Apparel Engineering
      Design and realization of a collocation recommendation system for women's clothing
      GAN Meichen, LI Min
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  122-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200510
      Abstract ( 600 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2599KB) ( 372 )   Save
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      In order to meet the huge demand of consumers for clothing collocation recommendation and make up for the lack of existing services, the women's fashion brand L was taken as a case study. With reference to the basic procedures of Kansei engineering, based on the literature research and design elements and style features of the brand, a Kansei image evaluation scale of fashion style and a classification table of design elements were established. Through the questionnaire survey and data analysis, the influence direction and degree of each design element on the Kansei image of fashion style were found and quantitative models of fashion style were constructed. On the basis of theoretical research and market research, clothing collocation rules were established. Combined with the quantitative models of fashion style, a women's clothing collocation recommendation system was developed, and the recommendation results were verified. The verification results show that the precision rate, the recall rate and the comprehensive evaluation index were all within a reasonable range, indicating that the system could effectively recommend the users' favorite products. Interviews with experimental users show that the system can basically meet consumers' demand for clothing collocation recommendation.

      Correlation between consumer's perceptual cognition of garment polka dot patterns and design elements
      LI Yang, WU Jing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  132-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200205805
      Abstract ( 307 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (8246KB) ( 117 )   Save
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      In order to explore the relationship between the consumer's perceptual evaluation of polka dot patterns and the pattern design elements for accurately grasp the design positioning of polka dot patterns to meet consumer emotional needs, the consumer perception experiment was used to obtain the consumer's perceptual score data on the garment polka dot patterns in 7 dimensions. Meanwhile, the qualitative elements of the experimental sample pattern was assigned to quantitative data. By using partial least squares method, this study explored the mapping relationship between the two sets of data to establish correlation mathematical models. Through data analysis, it is concluded that the design elements of garment polka dot patterns affect the consumer's perceptual cognition. There is a high correlation between the two. Different perceptual adjectives correspond to different correlation models. The correlation model has practical application value, which helps to realize personalized pattern design based on different perceptual needs. It is also helpful to establish a predictive model for the perceptual evaluation of the garment polka dot patterns.

      NURBS surface model of digital mannequin based on B/S architecture
      LIU Yun, XIU Yi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  137-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200100107
      Abstract ( 347 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2311KB) ( 170 )   Save
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      Aiming at slow web loading and model distortion caused by the excessive size of data in the Web/server(B/S) architecture, a parametric NURBS surface model based on the B/S architecture was developed. The feature information of the point model was manually extracted by using a 3-D scanning tool to obtain its feature semantic structure and reduce the amount of model data, and then a B/S architecture was built to transfer the data from the server to the client through the JSON tree structure. Angle-weighted average, similar triangles and other methods were used to achieve parametric deformation of the mannequin. According to the principle of NURBS surface, the high-density points were employed to supplement the control points in the deformation area to construct a smooth human platform deformation surface. This method reduces human body data to form a simplified set of data to facilitate smooth data loading for creating a high-quality NURBS surface based on the B/S architecture.

      Adaptive dynamic scheduling of garment hanging production line
      XIE Ziang, DU Jinsong, ZHAO Guohua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  144-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200100406
      Abstract ( 289 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (5116KB) ( 171 )   Save
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      Aiming at the inefficiency of real-time order scheduling and bottleneck elimination in garment mass customization, a dynamic scheduling policy based on adaptive rolling window for garment hanging production line was proposed. A multi-objective dynamic scheduling model with the constrained conditions of processing sequence, equipment, personal skill, and process level was established to minimize the completion time and equipment waiting time, and a non-dominated genetic algorithm based on double-layer coding process and equipment was used to for claculation. The dynamic arrival process of personalized order in 21 600 s was taken as an example for simulation based on real enterprise order data. The result shows that dynamic scheduling strategy based on adaptive rolling window making use of the machine information has better performance in real-time order scheduling for different process requirements than the scheduling policy of the constant cycle.

      Development of novel intelligent silk quilt for young children
      HUANG Yangyang, LIU Wei, HUA Ying, ZHAO Zhongqi, XU Jin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  150-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191202508
      Abstract ( 281 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (3354KB) ( 87 )   Save
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      Aiming to prevent young children from kicking off quilt during sleeping, this paper reported on the development of a new silk intelligent quilt. In this research, micro temperature sensors were fitted at specific locations of the silk quilt, and the collected temperature data were conveyed to a mobile phone via Bluetooth. A mobile application procedure was created for reading the data and for analyzing temperature change relating to quilt off-kicking, and the sound and vibration alarm of mobile phone would be triggered once predetermined conditions were met. The product performance test results show that under the conditions of alarm time equalling or more than 7 min and a full off-kick, the warning success rate is 100%, warning time accuracy is less than or equals to 3 min, and there is not false alarm logged. Some special cases of kicking is also identified.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Investigation on automatic deformation inspection system of long and thin parts with hooks
      ZHU Shigen, YANG Hongxian, BAI Yunfeng, DING Hao, ZHU Qiaolian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  158-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200306006
      Abstract ( 241 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1450KB) ( 92 )   Save
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      The existing machine vision automatic deformation inspection system is mainly limited to the detection of small size precision parts or large size non precision parts. For some large-scale, high-precision and large-quantity inspection objects, manual sorting is mainly used in actual production. It is difficult to guarantee high accuracy and efficiency at the same time. Therefore, an automatic deformation inspection method and system based on vision was proposed. First of all, a modular high-speed detection hardware system was designed, and the detection index was quantified by the virtual real image joint detection method. Secondly, using LabVIEW and IMAQ vision visual toolkit as the development environment, according to the shape characteristics of the parts, a partition detection algorithm based on the gap value was designed to avoid various errors of direct detection of the overall deformation. On this basis, the optimal detection scheme was determined according to the shape of the needle hook, and the improved positioning strategy based on multi-references was used to solve the problem of pose deviation. The results show that the system can avoid the false detection of the hook, improve the measurement accuracy of the hook size and the repeatability of the detection results, and the repeat detection rate can reach 91%-96%. Finally, comparing with standard parts, it is verified that the consistency of machine-checked parts meets the needs of installation.

      Redundant actuation control strategy of positioning platform for 3-D additive printing machine
      SHEN Ruichao, CHI Xinfu, SUN Yize
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  164-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191104106
      Abstract ( 195 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (3432KB) ( 71 )   Save
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      The positioning accuracy is low when aligning the screens in automatic shoe upper printing, affecting the quality of upper printing. This paper proposed a positioning platform for printing machine based on redundant actuation. By adding a Y-axis on the base of original positioning platform, the rigidity and ability to manipulate heavy loads of the Y-direction of the positioning platform was effectively improved, thereby improving the positioning accuracy of the positioning platform of the printing machine. Due to the coupling of the mechanism motion during the movement of the redundant actuation mechanism, the geometric method was used to decouple the motion and the control strategy based on the use of electronic cam was proposed. Reversing backlash compensation was adopted, which further improved the positioning accuracy of the platform hence ensured the printing quality of the shoe upper. After experimental verification, the Y-direction positioning accuracy of the printing machine platform was improved by 85.7%, and that in the Z-direction rotation 72.9%. The X-direction reversing backlash was improved by 50%, the Y-direction reversing backlash by 75%, and the Z-direction rotation reversing backlash 42.86%.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in formation of starch fibers and their drug-loaded controlled-release
      DUAN Fangyan, WANG Wenyu, JIN Xin, NIU Jiarong, LIN Tong, ZHU Zhengtao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  170-177.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191103108
      Abstract ( 385 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1141KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      In order to prepare drug-loaded starch nanofibers with high porosity, large specific surface area and controllable drug release properties, and promote their application in biomedical fields such as drug-loaded dressings, this paper mainly reviewed on starch fibers formation and drug loading and controlled release of the starch fibers. The preparation methods and processing characteristics of starch fibers in recent researches were systematically introduced. In view of the formation of starch fibers, the development process, performance characteristics and research progress of modified starch-based fibers, blended starch-based fibers and pure starch fibers were introduced in details. Regarding the problem of initial burst release of drug-loaded starch nanofibers in the drug release process, the influence of cross-linking methods on controlled drug release performance of starch nanofibers membrane was reviewed. Finally, the countermeasures for the difficulties and challenges faced by starch nanofibers in drug-loaded external dressings were presented, and the future research directions were proposed.

      Advances in flame-retardant surface treatments for textiles
      LIU Jinxu, LIU Pengqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  178-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190704610
      Abstract ( 386 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1660KB) ( 252 )   Save
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      To further improve the practicability and extend the applications of flame-retardant fibers and fabrics, recent advances of high-quality and multifunctional surface treatments for textiles were reviewed. Focusing on physical deposition, chemical modification, sol-gel process, and layer-by-layer self-assembly, research lierature on the development of the treatment qualities, such as washability, mechanical robustness, and mechanical strength were summarized. Furthermore, advantages and applications of multifunctional flame-retardant surface treatments were scrutinized. The review indicates that future developments of flame-retardant surface treatments for textiles will be concentrated on the efficient combination of high quality to realize the practical and functionalized applications of multifunctional flame-retardant textiles and on the applications of surface treatments in wearable electronics, furniture, clothing, and protective equipment.

      Development and current state of thermal sensors used for testing thermal protective clothing
      ZHAI Li'na, LI Jun, YANG Yunchu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  188-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191106409
      Abstract ( 375 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1212KB) ( 328 )   Save
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      In order to summarize the evaluation principles of the thermal sensors and to identify research gaps in this area, this paper reviewed and analyzed the construction structures, data collection methods, heat transfer models, application areas and test quality of different thermal sensors. It is understood that the copper sensors have a better test stability, while its thermal properties are too different from the human skin, which may result in an underestimation of the potential skin burn injury. Skin simulants, on the other hand, are found to be able to better simulate the thermal reaction of the human skin, but with limited applications. It is reasonable to believe that the copper sensors will be mainly used for the standard test methods in future development, and the skin simulants would need further technical improvement. It may take more considerations on the simulation of the heat transfer inside human skin for the development of the new thermal sensors.

      Research progress in detection of hydrogen peroxide concentration
      XIANG Zhong, WANG Yuhang, WU Jinbo, QIAN Miao, HU Xudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(10):  197-204.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200102308
      Abstract ( 1115 )   HTML ( 70 )   PDF (939KB) ( 944 )   Save
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      In order to effectively solve problems in the concentration detection of hydrogen peroxide (HP) in textile process, and to improve the accuracy, efficiency and range of the detection, this paper reviewed on the detection method and mathematical model of HP. Six methods for detecting HP concentration were examined, including conventional titration, electrochemical analysis, spectrophotometry, fluorescence/chemiluminescence, refractive index and microwave. The principle, research progress and applicability of each method were analyzed. It is found that although the conventional titration method has high precision, it is more time and energy consuming. Electrochemical analysis has fast response and strong anti-interference ability. The cost of spectrophotometry is high and it is relatively more complicated. Fluorescence/chemiluminescence method has high sensitivity but more shows interference. The refractive index and microwave methods are highly sensitive, but at present they apply only to single component solutions. According to the analysis, electrochemical analysis is deemed to be more suitable for detecting HP in the textile process, and the effective solution to ohmic drop caused by high concentration of HP would be the one of the focuses for future research.