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Table of Content

    15 November 2020, Volume 41 Issue 11
    • Fiber Materials
      Temperature related creep rupture mechanism of high-tenacity polyester industrial fiber
      CHEN Kang, JIANG Quan, JI Hong, ZHANG Yang, SONG Minggen, ZHANG Yumei, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  1-9.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200200209
      Abstract ( 541 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4201KB) ( 181 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the creep rupture mechanism of high-tenacity polyester industrial fibers at different temperatures, in-situ small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray scattering characterizations were conducted on a high tenacity polyester fiber during creep rupture process at 80 ℃ and 200 ℃, respectively. The creep strain-time curves were categorised into tensile zone (I), creep deformation zone (II) and creep rupture zone (III). For the low-temperature creep rupture, a small part of lamellar surfaces was transformed into normal surface, and the tilting angle of the inclined lamellar surface increased with time in the first two zones. In creep rupture zone, the fully stretched amorphous molecular chains were broken, resulting in the disappearance of the periodic lamellar structure. For the high-temperature creep rupture process on the other hand, the surface of the lamellar structure always maintained an inclined state and the lamellar tilting angle gradually decreased in the first two zones. Highly-oriented molecular chains in the amorphous region exerted stress on the crystal region, which causes the surface chains in the amorphous region and the crystal region to be pulled out, resulting in the fracture of crystalline structure and the lamellar stack structure was damaged in creep rupture zone.

      Preparation and energy storage of porous carbon nanofibers based on ZnCo2O4
      WANG Zixi, HU Yi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  10-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191106709
      Abstract ( 359 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (4504KB) ( 148 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of rapid capacity decay during the cycling of lithium-sulfur batteries, ZnCo2O4 nanoparticles were prepared by a hydrothermal method, and the nanoparticles were mixed with polyacrylonitrile to prepare composite nanofibers by electrostatic spinning followed by carbonization. Scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, raman spectroscopy, and specific surface area measurements were used to characterize the microstructure and physical and chemical properties of the composite porous carbon nanofibers. The optimal preparation process was identified, and the porous carbon nanofibers were used as the positive sulfur carrier to test its electrochemical performance. The results show that the composite porous carbon nanofibers prepared based on ZnCo2O4 has a large number of channels connected by pores, and the specific surface area is as high as 210.85 m2/g. The assembled lithium-sulfur battery has a typical charge-discharge platform and a significant oxygen reduction peak. An initial discharge specific capacity of 759.2 mA·h/g is achieved, and it still has a reversible specific capacity of 74.0% after 50 charge-discharge cycles. Compared with electrospinning carbon nanofibers without ZnCo2O4 doping, the porous carbon nanofibres has better specific capacity and higher rate performance.

      Preparation and properties of composite proton exchange membranes based on sulfonated polyethersulfone nanofibers
      WANG Liyuan, KANG Weimin, ZHUANG Xupin, JU Jingge, CHENG Bowen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  19-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200302108
      Abstract ( 446 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (5359KB) ( 126 )   Save
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      To develop high-performance Nafion proton exchange membranes for fuel cells, sulfonated polyethersulfone (SPES) nanofibers with different sulfonation degrees prepared via electrospinning technology were used as additives to construct SPES nanofibers/Nafion composite proton exchange membrane. The effects of solution concentration, spinning voltage and receiving distance on the spinning process and morphology of SPES nanofibers were discussed. Under the optimal process, the effects of SPES nanofibers with different sulfonation degrees on the microstructure, water absorption, swelling, proton conductivity, and methanol permeability of the composite membrane were studied. The results show that under the electrospinning parameters of solution concentration of 30%, spinning voltage of 30 kV and receiving distance of 20 cm, the composite Nafion membrane based on the optimal SPES nanofiber with sulfonation degree of 64% exhibits balanced proton conduction (0.144 S/cm) and methanol permeability (7.58×10-7 cm2/s). The composite membrane presents the best comprehensive performance, which meets the application needs of high-performance methanol fuel cells.

      Preparation and performance of colorimetric humidity sensor using polyacrylonitrile/CoCl2 nanofibers
      SUN Qian, KAN Yan, LI Xiaoqiang, GAO Dekang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  27-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200202407
      Abstract ( 436 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (3999KB) ( 147 )   Save
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      Polyacrylonitrile(PAN)/CoCl2 composite nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning for colorimetric detection of ambient humidity. Scanning electron microscopy, Fourier infrared spectrometer and energy dispersive X-ray spectrometer were used to characterize and analyze the microstructure and surface morphology of the PAN/CoCl2 nanofibers. Ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer was used to analyze the reflection spectra of the fiber under different humidity and saturated vapor atmosphere with different organic solvents, and the electrochemical workstation was used to test the response and recovery capacity of the sensor under different humidity environment. The results show that PAN/CoCl2 nanofibers are able to maintain their structural stability in strong acid and strong base solutions. The nanofibers change their color from blue to pink, when relative humidity changes from 11% to 98%. Furthermore, the color change process is reversible and the response and recovery speed is fast. Under the humidity environment of 11%-75%, electric current reaches 1 023 nA within 12 s. When the humidity is decreased to 11%, the electric current drops from 2 187 nA to 10 nA within 2 s, which has the ability of rapid response and recovery.

      Preparation and characterization of cellulose/dialdehyde cellulose/Antarctic krill protein antibacterial fibers
      MA Yue, GUO Jing, YIN Juhui, ZHAO Miao, GONG Yumei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  34-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200307207
      Abstract ( 378 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (2856KB) ( 226 )   Save
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      In order to improve the degradability and antibacterial properties of cellulose/krill protein (C/AKP) composite fibers, C/DAC/AKP spinning solutions were prepared by adding dialdehyde cellulose (DAC) into the C/AKP solution. Fibers were produced from the C/DAC/AKP spinning solution using wet spinning technology, which was coagulated in H2SO4/Na2SO4/ZnSO4 and H2SO4/Na2SO4/KAl(SO4)2 coagulation bath. The effects of DAC and coagulation bath components on the structures and properties of the fibers, such as intermolecular action, in vitro degradation, bacteriostasis and thermal stability, were investigated. The results show that using the same coagulation bath, the C/DAC/AKP composite fibers, demonstrate an increase of 24.26% to 32.96% in intermolecular hydrogen bonds in the system and a 7.5% increase in thermal stability compared to that for the C/AKP composite fibers, together with improved degradability. It is also made clear that the addition of KAl(SO4)2 in the coagulation bath improves the intermolecular hydrogen bond content and thermal stability of the fibers. It is illustrated that both C/AKP and C/DAC/AKP composite fibers have good antibacterial activity, and have good application prospects for biomaterials.

      Structure and biocompatibility of silk fibroin/gelatin blended hydrogels
      WANG Shudong, MA Qian, WANG Ke, QU Caixin, QI Yu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  41-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200301007
      Abstract ( 665 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (3963KB) ( 233 )   Save
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      To address the difficulty in silk fibroin curing, gelatin and silk fibroin aqueous solution were blended, and the silk fibroin/gelatin blended hydrogels were prepared by three-dimensional printing. The rheological properties, microstructure and biological properties of the blended hydrogels were investigated. The results show that addition of gelatin increases the viscosity and energy storage modulus of blended hydrogels, which is good for the gel forming in the subsequent three-dimensional printing process. Addition of gelatin does not affect the secondary structure of silk fibroin, and the microperiodic silk fibroin/gelatin blended hydrogels were prepared by three-dimensional printing. The breaking strength of the blended scaffold (blending ratio of silk protein to gelatin was 50∶50) is 3.43 MPa, which is 3.9 times higher than that of the pure silk protein. The printed scaffold has a three-dimensional porous structure after freeze-drying. After 7 days' culturing, MC3T3-E1 cells were found to be able to grow, proliferate and differentiate on the blended hydrogel scaffolds.

      Textile Engineering
      Enhanced process optimization and mechanism analysis of thermal adhesion for air jet vortex spun yarn
      CHEN Yuxiang, YU Meiya, DONG Zhengmei, MIAO Lulu, LIN Yanyan, ZOU Zhuanyong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  48-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200400805
      Abstract ( 291 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2302KB) ( 131 )   Save
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      In order to explore effective ways to improve the strength and elongation properties of air jet vortex spun yarn, the effect of the heat treatment temperature, heat treatment speed and draw ratio on the breaking strength and elongation of viscose / low melting point polyester air jet vortex spun yarn was studied based on the Box-Behnken Design response surface method. The optimal heat treatment process parameters were determined and the mechanism of thermal adhesion to reinforce the air jet vortex spun yarn was explored. The results show that the heat treatment temperature, heat treatment speed, draw ratio, the secondary term of heat treatment speed, heat treatment speed and draw ratio interaction terms have obvious influence on the yarn breaking strength. The elongation at break is significantly affected by the heat treatment temperature and heat treatment speed, while the influence of draw ratio is not obvious. The best parameter values of heat treatment process obtained through the optimization are heat treatment temperature 193 ℃, heat treatment speed 90 m/min, draw ratio 1.00. The yarn breaking strength is increased by 10.7% compared with the original yarn, and the elongation is increased by 2.8% after optimization. Furthermore, it is found that the heating deformation, point-like and agglomerated heat-bonding of low-melting polyester fibers are the key to achieve thermal bonding enhancement of air jet vortex spun yarn.

      Study on stiffness style of knitted suit fabrics
      LI Xintong, GAO Zhe, GU Hongyang, CONG Honglian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  53-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200606
      Abstract ( 482 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1802KB) ( 196 )   Save
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      In order to discuss the requirements and standards for the development and application of knitted fabrics for suits, this study quantified the stiffness style of knitted fabrics in three aspects, i.e. bending length, wrinkle recovery and drape. With the help of experimental instruments and data processing, three performance indicators, bending stiffness, wrinkle recovery angle and static drape coefficient, were obtained. The woven suit fabric was used as a benchmark to study and analyze the stiffness style of knitted fabrics. The results show that knitted fabrics using the six-way-change Roman knit structure is more suitable for suits, and the structural stability of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is better than that of the twelve-way small jacquard structure and the variable interval structure, which reduces the difference between the course and wale flexural stiffness. The fabric thickness of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is 0.1 mm thicker, and the degree of crease recovery is 10% higher. When the fabric density is set to 110-130 loops/(5 cm), the degree of drape reaches more than 60% of that for the woven suit fabric. It is shown that the six-way-change Roman structure combined with high fabric density makes the stiffness style of knitted fabric reach 80% of that of the woven suit fabric.

      Influence of layer spacing on ballistic performance of double-plied plain fabric target
      ZHOU Yi, LI Hang, YAN Xiangbang, LIANG Yaoting, ZHANG Zhongwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  59-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200101408
      Abstract ( 281 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (6065KB) ( 127 )   Save
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      In order to meet the requirements of performance improvement and weight reduction of flexible ballistic panels, and to optimize the structure design of flexible multi-ply ballistic materials, spacing was incorporated between the adjacent layers to study the dynamic response of the front and back layers. This research used ballistic penetration test to characterize the energy absorption capacity of fabric panels, and also made use of a finite element model to analyze the mechanisms of energy absorption. It was found from the ballistic tests that the energy absorption of the target decreases and then increases as the layer spacing widens. When a critical value is reached, the energy absorption stops increasing. The numerical predictions obtained from finite element modeling share similar trend with the experimental results. It was found that the transverse deflection and the stress distribution area of the front layer increase as the layer spacing becomes widened, whereas the magnitude of stress distribution decreases on the rear layer.

      Structures and mechanical properties of typical textile-based artificial ligaments and explants
      LIU Mingjie, LIN Jing, GUAN Guoping, BROCHU G, GUIDION R, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  66-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191100307
      Abstract ( 564 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (4896KB) ( 221 )   Save
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      In view of large clinical demand for artificial ligament (AL) products and high elimination rate, the present work reports on research where eleven AL products were investigated comprehensively on their geometric features, textures, and surface morphology. In addition, failure mechanisms of a typical product Stryker?-Meadox were explored in terms of mechanical property, fiber morphology and biodegradation through analysis of explants and virgin samples. The results show that the existing AL products have various structures and different shapes, which is related to their clinical indications, and that the surface abrasion of the samples and internal structural changes of the polymers might be the leading causes of the failure after long-term implantation. The findings of this work provide some insights into optimizing the existing AL products.

      Comparison of spectral imaging and spectrophotometry in fabric color measurement
      QIU Kebin, CHEN Weiguo, ZHOU Hua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  73-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191204208
      Abstract ( 330 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1776KB) ( 190 )   Save
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      In order to address the problem in color difference between spectrophotometry and spectral imaging when measuring the same fabric, Datacolor 600 spectrophotometer, Datacolor Spectravision and hyperspectral imaging system HIS were chosen to measure the same set of monochromatic cotton knitted fabrics. The reasons and mechanisms for the difference in color and in spectral reflectance measured by the three instruments were discussed. The color difference and spectral similarity between different instruments were calculated, and the data were analyzed by Pearson correlation coefficient method. The results show that HIS has good repeatability with the average color difference being 0.154. The spectral reflectance measured by the three instruments have strong similarity. Compared with Spectravision, the chromatic value of HIS is closer to the spectrophotometer. Spatial feature information is the main factor affecting the color and spectral reflectance. The pixel size of Spectravision are smaller, and Spectravision has a lower brightness due to the influence of shadow of yarns and fabric texture. The pixel size of HIS are proportional to the distance between the camera and the specimen, and HIS is applicable to a broader range.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Effect of anthraquinone additive on properties of glycol solvent degummed ramie fibers
      QU Yongshuai, SHI Zhaohe, ZHANG Ruiyun, ZHAO Shuyuan, LIU Liu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  81-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200101308
      Abstract ( 302 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2780KB) ( 95 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of property degradation of ramie fiber due to easy oxidation during degumming process using glycol organic solvent, anthraquinone (AQ) as degumming additive was used with glycol solvent. The properties of fibers prepared with different amounts of AQ were characterized, including polymerization degree, crystallinity, hemicellulose contents, physical and mechanical properties, and so on. The results show that the hemicellulose contents increase when AQ concentration arises. Meanwhile, the polymerization degree value, crystallinity, physical and mechanical properties of fiber show formation of peaks with the increase of AQ content. Under the best AQ mass fraction of 0.3%, the polymerization degree value, crystallinity, yield, tenacity, elongation and fracture work of fiber increase by 7.32%, 20.53%, 1.46%, 9.55%, 6.89%, 33.33%, respectively, while the residual gum content and density of fiber decrease by 17.91%, 7.24%, respectively.

      Study on process performance of ramie fiber anaerobic biological degumming system
      LIU Fang, MA Yanxue, CHEN Xiaoguang, LIU Shuhui, ZHANG Yizhen, REN Zhipeng, LI Kangqi, TONG Yixuan, REN Luotong, LI Yuling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  89-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191204906
      Abstract ( 288 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2237KB) ( 137 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of low efficiency, high cost and secondary pollution in traditional degumming of ramie fiber, a high efficiency ramie fiber anaerobic degumming system was developed using a self-developed high efficiency ramie fiber anaerobic degumming device as the carrier. Based on chemical composition analysis of the raw ramie, the characteristics of the start-up and stable operation stages of ramie fiber anaerobic biological degumming process were studied, and the physical characteristics of the degummed ramie fiber were analyzed. It was found that cellulose and gelatine account for about 70% and 30% respectively in the raw ramie, and that the hemicellulose and lignin should be removed firstly in the degumming process. The system can start up rapidly within 72 hours of hydraulic retention time, and when it runs efficiently and stably, the pH is about 7.0, and chemical oxygen demand and ammonia nitrogen concentration are both at low levels. The ramie fiber has the best physical characteristics when the optimal water bath ratio is 1∶8, under which the ramie fiber has good appearance and mechanical properties, and the residue of gelatine is minimal.

      Preparation of Raney nickel and its application in synthesis of dye intermediates
      FENG Pengyao, WANG Rong, QU Jian'gang, DONG Ling, HU Xiaolin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  95-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190802407
      Abstract ( 440 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2668KB) ( 179 )   Save
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      In order to meet the requirements for clean production and to improve the reaction rate and conversion rate of T-acid synthesis, the nickel-aluminum alloy powder was used as the catalyst precursor to prepare the Raney nickel catalyst by sodium hydroxide activation. The prepared structure and properties of the materials were studied by means of scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, specific surface area and pore structure tester and Zeta potential tester, and so on, and its application in the preparation of T-acid by hydrogenation reduction of nitro T-acid was investigated. The results show that the prepared Raney nickel catalyst is rich in pore structures, mainly mesopores, with a specific surface area of 46.88 m2/g and an average grain size of 15.8 nm. The optimum application process of the prepared Raney nickel in the hydrogenation reduction of nitro T-acid is as follows: catalyst dosage 2.500%, reaction pressure 2.0 MPa, reaction temperature 120 ℃, stirring speed 800 r/min. Under the best process conditions, the conversion of nitro T-acid reaches 99.07%, and there is no obvious deactivation after ten times of reuse.

      Structure and antibacterial properties of silica coated silver-copper nanoparticles
      JIANG Xingmao, LIU Qi, GUO Lin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  102-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191105407
      Abstract ( 408 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2720KB) ( 140 )   Save
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      In order to study the synergistic antibacterial effect between bimetallic nanoparticles and prevent metal nanoparticle agglomeration, a ″dragon fruit″ type of high-load (50%) silica coated silver-copper bimetallic nanoparticle antibacterial agent (Ag-Cu/SiO2) was prepared using the aerosol one-step method. The structure of Ag-Cu/SiO2 was characterized by X-ray diffraction, transmission electron microscopy, electron spectroscopy, and the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and time-kill curves of 50%Ag-Cu/SiO2 against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli was also studied. The formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in bacterial cells were subsequently investigated. The results show that the silver-copper bimetallic nanoparticles uniformly are dispersed in the spherical silica, presenting a "dragon fruit" structure. The Ag-Cu/SiO2 has better antibacterial properties than Cu/SiO2 and Ag/SiO2 with the same loading (50%). The MIC of Ag-Cu/SiO2 against both bacteria was 2 μg/mL and the growth of bacteria was fully inhibited within 24 h. The level of ROS produced by Ag-Cu/SiO2 is significantly higher than that of single metal nanoparticles and it causes the bacteria to die, indicating that the bimetallic nanoparticles have synergistic antibacterial effect.

      Halogen-free flame retardant finishing of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber
      YANG Yaru, SHEN Xiaojun, TANG Bolin, NIU Mei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  109-115.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200202607
      Abstract ( 572 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2670KB) ( 257 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardant properties of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fiber, carbon microspheres coated by magnesium hydroxide (MH-CMSs), which have both flame retardant and smoke suppression effect, were used as flame retardants, and tetrabutyl titanate and triphenyl phosphite were used as surfactants. The UHMWPE fibers were modified using the procedure of impurity removal—activation—padding—baking. The flame retardant properties, mechanical properties and thermal stability of these fibers were tested, and the flame retardant mechanism was studied. The research results show that this method is able to improve effectively the flame retardancy of UHMWPE fiber without harming its mechanical properties. Compared with pure UHMWPE fiber, the limited oxygen index of flame retardant UHMWPE (FR-UHMWPE) fiber is increased more than 36%, the peak heat release rate is reduced by up to 39.3%. In addition, smoke and molten droplets of the UHMWPE fibers are suppressed, and the fire risk is significantly reduced. The FR-UHMWPE fiber exhibits condensed phase flame retardant mechanism. The flame retardant finishing promotes the degradation of UHMWPE into carbon, which forms a dense and continuous char layer during the combustion process. This char layer can effectively prevent the transfer of heat and mass, and thus has a flame retardant effect.

      Investigation on factors influencing thermal protection of composite flame retardant fabrics treated by graphene aerogel
      MENG Jing, GAO Shan, LU Yehu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  116-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200304706
      Abstract ( 368 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3153KB) ( 162 )   Save
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      To improve the comprehensive performance of thermal protective clothing and meet the needs of increasing thermal protection and reducing heat stress, a graphene aerogel composite fabrics system was developed. Based on different evaluation indices, the effects of mass fraction of graphene oxide solution during preparaton, thickness, and carbon fiber content of graphene aerogel on thermal protection of composite fabric system were investigated in a low radiation condition. The results show that the composite fabric system with graphene aerogel provides better thermal protective performance, with the time required to cause skin damage extending 165%-318%, the time required to generate skin burn prolonging for about 87%-225%, and the maximum temperature rise reducing 35.6%-63.9%. There are interactions among the three influencing factors for the indices time for temperature rise of 12 ℃, time for temperature rise of 24 ℃ and the maximum temperature rise. Whilst the time to reach maximum temperature has no interaction with the three factors, the effect of carbon fiber content is significant.

      Apparel Engineering
      Ventilation design and thermal-wet comfort evaluation of knitted sportswear
      SUN Cenwenjie, NI Jun, ZHANG Zhaohua, DONG Wanting
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  122-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200200807
      Abstract ( 449 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (2772KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      To study the influence of ventilation pores and ventilation channel on human body thermal physiology and subjective comfort, two types of sportswear were designed employing knitting holes and cord structures. Experiments were carried out in the climate chamber to evaluate the objective physiological indexes of the developed sportswear, such as skin temperature, under clothing humidity and sweat evaporation rate. Subjective sensations including thermal, wetness, stickiness and comfort were evaluated as well. The results show that the clothes with ventilation pores significantly increase the evaporation of human sweat and reduce the humidity under the clothes, with all the subjective sensations significantly reduced. However, when the ventilation channels were further added on the basis of ventilation holes, the thermal resistance of clothing is increased due to the increase of the thickness of air layer under the clothing, which is contradictive to the improvement of the thermal physiology and comfort sensation. It is learned that when designing sportswear, consideration of ventilation performance should be balanced with the premise of controlling the thermal resistance.

      Design method of lapel collar structure based on structure model of lapel collar looseness
      ZHANG Heng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  128-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200403508
      Abstract ( 370 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (3284KB) ( 147 )   Save
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      In order to improve the calculation accuracy of lapel looseness and general structural design method of lapel collar, a design method of lapel structure based on lapel looseness structure model was proposed. The calculation coefficient of lapel looseness was determined by constructing the structure model of lapel looseness, and the change of lapel clearance under six different conditions was analyzed. According to the regression coefficient model for lapel clearance, the given constant of lapel looseness was determined. SPSS statistical software was used to analyze the correlation, regression and paired sample T test, and the calculation formula of lapel looseness was derived. The experimental results show that the lapel looseness calculated by the formula improves the accuracy of the structural modeling of the lapel, and it is proven that the design method of the lapel structure based on the lapel looseness structure model is able to meet the design requirements of different lapel types.

      Leg classification for young women based on leg shape characteristics
      CHEN Xiya, ZHAO Ying, CAI Xiaoyu, GU Bingfei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190904407
      Abstract ( 1427 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF (2583KB) ( 378 )   Save
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      In order to improve the fit and comfort of women's trousers, body classification for young women was studied and discussed according to the characteristics of leg shapes. Using three-dimensional human body scanning, image measurement and manual measurement, leg shape of 236 young women aged between 18 and 25 years were measured, and twenty characteristic parameters describing leg shape were obtained. The main characteristic factors affecting leg shape were concluded by component factor analysis, and the classification results of young women's legs were extracted by using cluster analysis. Combining with the values of knee angle, the identification rules of each leg shape category were established and the new samples were classified and verified. Consequently, the main characteristic factors that affect the leg shape were the horizontal girth, the length, the calf girth difference, the leg curvature, the leg contour, and the thigh girth difference. The leg shape was divided into three categories, i.e. round, slightly flat and flat, and the identification rules of each leg shape category were established with four variables.

      New intelligent mining clothing design with real-time gas monitoring function
      JIN Peng, XUE Zhebin, GE Yao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  143-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200307607
      Abstract ( 369 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2273KB) ( 193 )   Save
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      In view of the existing problems in the lack of comfort and safety for mining clothing, a improved design was put forward from the perspectives of clothing materials, structure and functional modules. From the perspectives of antistatic and flame retardant, silver fiber blended fabric was chosen as the main material for the new mining clothing. Based on ergonomics, the clothing parts that affect wearing comfort were redesigned. In addition, based on the safety requirements of underground work, a gas monitoring and warning module is added to the right chest position of the mine clothing. The test results show that by simulating the underground environment with high temperature and humidity (35 ℃, 70% humidity), the newly designed mining clothing obtained 1.32 points higher than that of the traditional mining suits in subjective evaluation according to the new 7-point system, and the average skin surface temperature is proven to rise more slowly. Meanwhile, the gas monitoring system is able to measure the gas concentration in real time, ensuring the safety of the underground workers.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Method for testing natural frequency of weft knitting needles in free state
      DAI Ning, PENG Laihu, HU Xudong, CUI Ying, ZHONG Yaosen, WANG Yuefeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  150-155.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200301506
      Abstract ( 451 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (2950KB) ( 131 )   Save
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      The natural frequency characteristics of knitting needles on weft knitting machines are closely related to the property of weft knitting machines. The existing weft knitting machine knitting needles are small, slender, and have variable cross-sectional diameter in their free state, and the characteristics of the knitting needles at various stages are difficult to test. This research made use of a small and low-quality piezoelectric zirconate titanate ceramics (PZT) attached to the surface of the knitting needle to form an adhesive body structure. A high-performance impedance analyzer was used to perform a frequency sweep test on the bonded body. According to the complex impedance and phase angle curves at different frequencies, the modes of each order in the PZT free state were obtained. ANSYS finite element simulation software was used to compare and verify each mode of knitting needles and bonded bodies, and analysis was performed based on the cantilever curvature, deflection theory, and knitting needle vibration theory. The results of theoretical calculation and simulation test show that this experimental test method is able to measure effectively the natural frequency of the needles in the free state.

      Design of flexible needle-punching forming system for rotary structure preform
      CHEN Xiaoming, LI Jiao, ZHANG Yifan, XIE Junbo, LI Chenyang, CHEN Li
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  156-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190707806
      Abstract ( 371 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (3712KB) ( 100 )   Save
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      Existing special shaped needle-punching forming equipment is difficult to be adapted to the needle-punching forming requirements of small-volume and multi-variable rotary structure composite preforms. To address on this problem, a needle-punching forming system for flexible rotary preforms was proposed. According to the needle-punching forming characteristics of the rotary preform, a four-axis linkage needle-punching moving mechanism and a pneumatic needle-punching head configuration were used, and a needle forming system was constructed using the programmable logic controller (PLC) and the touch screen, which was verified by experiments. The research results show that the needle traces of the needle punching experiment and the simulated needle traces are highly consistent, proving the feasibility of the four-axis needle punching system. The needle punching frequency reaches 110 times per minute, and the needle punching efficiency is doubled compared with the existing double-cylinder needle punching head.

      Automatic generation algorithm for pattern processing codes of quilting machines
      LI Liang, NI Junfang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  162-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190905606
      Abstract ( 400 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2539KB) ( 251 )   Save
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      In order to simplify the pattern design process with the quilting machines, to reduce the influence of operators' experience and to achieve the effect of the real-time quilting, this research worked on the automatic generation of pattern codes. The target quilting pattern is pre-processed and edge-extracted, and the contour tracking algorithm was used to segment the image into several ordered point-chain contours. The genetic algorithm was used with the line and arc as base processing elements and the first-order continuous continuity as constraint condition, to fit each outline contour to carry out simulation machining. Programming verification was carried out to prove the reliability of the result by MatLab. The results show that the constraint error function is able to avoid the influence of the trimming and stitch skipping caused by the discontinuity of the endpoint. The fitness of optimal processing path of each generation is gradually improved by the action of the genetic operators. The total error and the number of fitting segments are smaller. The pattern simulation processing satisfies the requirements of good real-time performance, high efficiency, high degree of reduction and the needs of quilting manufacturing requirements of complex patterns in practice.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress of noise reduction by nanofibers
      LI Haoyi, XU Hao, CHEN Mingjun, YANG Tao, CHEN Xiaoqing, YAN Hua, YANG Weimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  168-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191206306
      Abstract ( 645 )   HTML ( 31 )   PDF (1731KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      In order to broaden the application of nanofibers in acoustics and promote the development of sound absorption of high-performance nanofibers, the current research on sound absorption and noise reduction of nanofibers at domestic and abroad is reviewed. First, the sound absorption principle and advantages of nanofibers are analyzed. The high specific surface area and porosity of nanofibers promote the absorption of sound waves in the low and middle frequency range. Secondly, the factors that affect the sound absorption properties of nanofibers are summarized. Then introduced the preparation technology of nanofibers. The effects of nanofibers on the sound absorption properties of natural fibers, synthetic fibers and foams are mainly described. It is believed that conventional sound absorption materials can significantly improve their sound absorption performance in low and middle frequency range by combining with nanofibers. Finally, the prospects for nanofiber sound-absorbing urgently to be solved and how to prepare green and high-performance nanofiber sound-absorbing materials were made.

      Research progress in preparation of durable antibacterial cotton fabrics with inorganic nanoparticles
      ZHANG Yanyan, ZHAN Luyao, WANG Pei, GENG Junzhao, FU Feiya, LIU Xiangdong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  174-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191104607
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1382KB) ( 248 )   Save
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      In order to effectively solve the problem of poor durability of antibacterial cotton fabrics prepared by applying inorganic nanoparticles and to improve the finishing technology using inorganic nanoparticles, the recent research progress in durable antimicrobial properties of cotton fabrics combined with adhesives was reviewed. Evaluation of antimicrobial durability, inorganic nanoparticles and methods for immobilizing inorganic nanoparticles on a cotton surface were introduced with a focus on the durability. The factors of durability including the antibacterial efficiency, the decrease of antibacterial efficiency and the loss of inorganic nanoparticles through the washing process were expounded and analyzed. It was revealed that amino and mercapto groups could form coordination bonds with inorganic nanoparticles, fixing effectively the inorganic nanoparticles on the surface of cotton fabric. Microwave radiation and ultrasound were used to enhance the adhesion of inorganic nanoparticles on the surface of cotton fabric.

      Research progress in effect of flame-retardant fabric aging on its tensile strength
      LIU Xiaohan, TIAN Miao, WANG Yunyi, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  181-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200102509
      Abstract ( 380 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1382KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      In view of the strength drop caused by the aging of flame-retardant fabrics, which makes fire-fighting clothing unable to meet the mechanical performance requirements of the standard, based on the related standards of fabric strength testing under aging conditions, the effects of different aging methods were discussed from the three aspects of thermal aging, ultraviolet aging and abrasion. The influence of the tensile strength of flame-retardant fabrics, and the direct and indirect evaluation methods for the strength changes of flame-retardant fabrics after aging are summarized. It is found that the current strength test for flame-retardant fabrics after aging may have problems relating to the sample size, test for both warp and weft directions, and the number of repeated experiments specified in the standard. It is pointed out that the current method for predicting the strength of flame-retardant fabrics under aging conditions has limitations in studying the changes in fabric strength under multi-factor conditions. It is suggested that the interaction of multiple aging factors on the mechanical properties of flame-retardant fabrics should be comprehensively considered in the future, through exploration of more complex nonlinear models or learn from prediction methods in other fields to predict the mechanical properties of flame-retardant fabrics after aging to improve the prediction accuracy and scope of application.

      Recent progress in super wettable textiles for oil-water separation
      YU Yucong, SHI Xiaolong, LIU Lin, YAO Juming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(11):  189-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200200408
      Abstract ( 440 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (1383KB) ( 259 )   Save
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      With the destruction of industrial oily wastewater to the global water environment, the application of ultra-wetting textiles in the field of oil-water separation has become a research hotspot in recent years. In order to promote the development and application of ultra-wetting textiles, the research progress of separation and purification of oily wastewater from ultra-wetting textiles was reviewed. The methods of developing super hydrophobicity/super hydrophilic, super hydrophilic/underwater super hydrophobicity are classified, and the limitations of single wetting material in practical application are analyzed. In order to deal with the large displacement and multi-component oily wastewater, the Janus wettability, intelligent wettability and multi-functional oil-water separation material are effective way to purify the complex oil-water wastewater. Based on the research progress of new ultra-wetting textiles, the current challenges and future research directions are discussed. In the future, as the composition of oily wastewater becomes more and more complex, the difficulty of collection and purification increases, it is of great significance to develop green, sustainable and multi-functional composite superwetting textile.