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Table of Content

    15 December 2020, Volume 41 Issue 12
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and properties of poly(phthalazinone ether ketone) fibers by dry spinning
      DONG Dalin, BIN Yuezhen, JIAN Xigao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200501006
      Abstract ( 435 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2249KB) ( 245 )   Save
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      To expand applications of poly(phthalazinone ether ketone) (PPEK) in fiber preparation, PPEK fibers were prepared by dry spinning with PPEK and mixed solvent of p-chlorophenol and 1,1',2,2'-tetrachloroethane (volume ratio is 1:1). PPEK solution and PPEK fibers were characterized by rotating rheometer, differential scanning calorimeter, polarizing microscope, universal tensile tester, X-ray diffractometer and fiber sound velocimeter. The results show that optimal spinning temperature of 40% PPEK solution is 140 ℃. After being elongated by 1.43 times, breaking strength, elastic modulus and sonic orientation factor of PPEK fibers reach 167.6 MPa, 4.6 GPa and 0.570 5, respectively. Hot elongated PPEK fibers has good heat resistance and remains amorphous with glass transition temperature of higher than 250 ℃.

      Negatively enhanced modification of silk fibroin and its load ability to calcitonin gene-related peptide
      SONG Guangzhou, TU Fangfang, DING Mengyao, DAI Mengnan, YIN Yin, DONG Fenglin, WANG Jiannan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  7-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200406206
      Abstract ( 408 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2047KB) ( 168 )   Save
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      In order to improve the rapid endothelialization of silk fibroin (SF) materials, and prevent thrombosis and intimal hyperplasia in vascular tissue engineering, calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP), which has the function of bidirectional regulation of vascular cell growth, was loaded onto the surface of SF materials through electrostatic interaction. Adipic acid (AA) containing two carboxyl groups was used to react with SF molecules, and AA modified SF film was prepared by fluidization method. The structure of modified SF films and the loading capacity of CGRP on the film surface were studied. The results show that the Zeta potential of SF gradually decreases with the increase of AA mass ratio. When the mass ratio of SF and AA is changed from 100:0 to 100:2.5, the Zeta potential of SF decreases from -2.66 mV to -5.4 mV. The introduction of new carboxyl groups and amide bonds into AA modified SF materials forms β-sheets and Silk II crystal structure. When SF and AA mass ratio increases to 100:2.5, the content of CGRP loaded by electrostatic action get 9 times higher than that of unmodified SF film surface.

      Preparation and performance of flexible sensor made from polyvinylidene fluoride/FeCl3 composite fibrous membranes
      ZHANG Yike, JIA Fan, GUI Cheng, JIN Rui, LI Rong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  13-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200402308
      Abstract ( 328 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (4945KB) ( 104 )   Save
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      In order to prepare a portable flexible sensor with high sensitivity, iron (III) chloride hexahydrate(FeCl3·6H2O)was added to polyvinylidene fluoride(PVDF) to prepare PVDF/FeCl3 composite fibrous membranes by electrospinning and hence the sensor. Scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, contact angle analyzer were used to characterize the morphology, structure, wettability, mechanical properties and piezoelectricity of the fibrous membranes. The test results show that an appropriate amount of FeCl3·6H2O could increase the relative content of β crystal type in the fibrous membrane and thus effectively improve the piezoelectric output of the sensor. However, too much FeCl3·6H2O would inhibit the formation of the β crystal type. When the mass fraction of FeCl3·6H2O is up to 0.5%, the ratio of β crystal type in the fiber crystal structure reaches a maximum of 68.74%, and the maximum output voltage reaches about 5 V. The response time of the sensor to the excitation process is up to 0.025 s. The response time is basically the same under different excitation frequencies, and the sensor shows higher piezoelectric output at dynamic high-frequency.

      Study on water-initiated ring-opening polymerization technology of L-lactide
      WEN Xin, ZHANG Xuzhen, LI Yong, HUANG Wenjian, LU Chen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  21-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200303905
      Abstract ( 554 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1395KB) ( 239 )   Save
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      The presence of hydroxyl-rich water in the bulk ring-opening polymerization of L-lactide (LLA) leads to lower molecular weight of obtained poly(L-lactide) (PLLA). In order to solve this problem, several moisture controlling technologies including purification of LLA monomer, drying of refined LLA and vacuum drying in the reactor before polymerization were investigated for their effects on the molecular weight of PLLA using stannous (Ⅱ) ethylhexanoate (Sn(Oct)2) as the catalyst. Nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometer, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, differential scanning calorimeter and thermogravimetric analysis were used to analyze the chemical structure and thermodynamic properties of PLLA. The results show that increasing purification times of LLA, extending drying time of refined LLA and extending the vacuum drying time in the reactor before polymerization all contribute to the increase of viscosity average molecular weight of PLLA. Compared with low viscosity average molecular weight PLLA, the high viscosity average molecular weight PLLA has a higher melting point of 175 ℃ and better thermal stability.

      Effect of atomic layer deposition technology on functionalization of cellulose membrane
      LI Junyu, JIANG Peiqing, ZHANG Wenqi, LI Wenbin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  26-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200407406
      Abstract ( 321 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (3526KB) ( 167 )   Save
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      In order to expand the use of cellulose membranes into medical, construction and other fields, with the characteristics of ultraviolet shielding, antibacterial of nano-zinc oxide, atomic layer depos-ition technology (ALD) were used to deposit nano-zinc oxide on the surface of cellulose membrane. The cellulose membrane was prepared to offer UV-blocking and antibacterial functions, and the effects of different temperatures and cycle numbers on the membrane properties were discussed. The structure and performance of the cellulose membranes treated with ALD were analyzed using ultraviolet spectrophotometer, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, thermogravimetric analysis and other analytical tools. The results show that as the temperature and the number of cycles increase, the UV transmittance of the cellulose membrane treated with ALD is reduced from 74.50% to 1.46%, and the antibacterial rate of ALD functionalized cellulose membrane against Staphylococcus aureus reaches 99.9%. In addition, on the surface of the treated cellulose membrane with nano-zinc oxide with hexagonal wurtzite structure, the residual carbon rate increases from 16.61% to 31.20%.

      Effect of cross-linking modification on properties of chitosan/polyoxyethylene nanofiber membranes towards wound care
      WANG Ximing, CHENG Feng, GAO Jing, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  31-36.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200203306
      Abstract ( 321 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (4064KB) ( 205 )   Save
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      In order to improve the structural stability and water resistance of chitosan-based nanofiber membranes, the glutaraldehyde cross-linking modification to the chitosan/polyoxyethylene nanofiber membranes prepared by electrospinning was carried out. Then,the nanofiber membranes of different crossing-linking time were immersed into phosphate buffer saline simulating body fluid environment in order to characterize its microstructure, chemical and crystalline structure, and the water resistance and mechanical properties was measured. The experimental results show that after glutaraldehyde cross-linking modification, the stability of the fiber structure is improved after soaking in the buffer for 24 h,and the water absorption ratio of nanofiber membranes in phosphate buffer saline gradually increases with the cross-linking time and the dissolution ratio gradually decreases, revealing that the cross-linking treatment has a positive effect on the structural stability and water resistance of the fiber membrane. It is also found that the cross-linking modification causes a strong interaction between the molecules, and changes the inherent crystalline structure of chitosan macromolecules, resulting in an increase in the initial modulus of the fiber membrane. In addition, the research shows that the mechanical strength of the nanofiber membranes increases first and then decreases with the extension of the cross-linking time. The cross-linking treatment increases both the strength and brittleness of the fiber membranes.

      Surface modification of basalt fiber using nano-SiO2
      LIU Shuqiang, WU Jie, WU Gaihong, YIN Xiaolong, LI Fu, ZHANG Man
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  37-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200401105
      Abstract ( 363 )   HTML ( 28 )   PDF (2224KB) ( 259 )   Save
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      In order to improve the interface compatibility of the basalt fiber with the matrix, coupling agent KH550 was used to modify the nano-SiO2 and the surface of the basalt fiber was modified by the modified nano-SiO2. The surface morphology and chemical structure of basalt fibers before and after modification were analyzed, and the effects of the mass fraction of nano-SiO2 on the mechanical properties, friction coefficient and moisture absorption performance of basalt fibers were studied. The results show that after nano-SiO2 surface treatment, the roughness and specific surface area of the basalt fiber surface is increased, and the friction and moisture absorption performance are increased significantly. When the nano-SiO2 mass fraction is 5%, the basalt fiber friction coefficient is increased from 0.255 to 0.280, and the moisture permeability is increased to 0.65%. Compared with the untreated basalt fiber, C—H bond appeared on the surface of the modified basalt fiber, and the intensity of the vibration peak corresponding to the Si—O—Si bond becomes stronger, increasing the polarity of the fiber surface. The tensile mechanical properties of the modified basalt fiber are also improved to some extent. With the increase of the amount of nano-SiO2, the mechanical properties of the basalt fiber increase at first and then decrease peak, and when the nano-SiO2 mass fraction is at 3%, the tensile fracture strength of basalt fiber reaches up to 40 cN/tex.

      Textile Engineering
      Digital cashmere color measurement and its application in length measurement
      HENG Chong, SHEN Hua, WANG Fumei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  42-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200205307
      Abstract ( 351 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1669KB) ( 93 )   Save
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      In photoelectric measurement of fiber length, the dependence of fiber transmittance and reflective signals on fiber brightness remains to be a problem. In order to characterize objectively the color category of cashmere and test the cashmere length precisely, a color measurement device based on color optocoupler(CCD) principle was developed. Through the transformation of color model in the three-color spaces, the distribution of cashmere of three colors in the three-dimensional color space was obtained. The conversion model between the optical parameter apparent reflectance (reflectance rate with infinite sample thickness) and brightness parameter was established based on the experiment results. The research shows that the clump density and surface density curve are accurately calculated with the apparent reflectance values obtained with the established method, which could be used in the length measurement of cashmere by photoelectric method. The color measurement method has the advantages of having large area, good representativeness and low cost, so it is able to be used for color measurement of fibers and textiles.

      Relations of pore size and distribution characteristics of down-proof fabric with breathability and anti-drilling property
      DONG Tiantian, WANG Lei, GAO Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  49-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200503605
      Abstract ( 480 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1380KB) ( 189 )   Save
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      In order to develop high-quality down-proof fabrics, and explore the impact mechanism of pore size and distribution characteristics on down-proof fabric, the pore size, permeability and down-proof performance of 10 types of different down-proof fabrics were tested by capillary flow porometer, permeability meter and anti-drilling property tester. The relations between the pore size and distribution characteristics and the breathability and anti-drilling property of the down-proof fabrics were analyzed. The results show that the pore size distribution follows well the normal distribution, and the correlation coefficient between the mean aperture and standard deviation is 0.99. For the down-proof fabrics with the same material and structure, the permeability decreases when the mean pore size gets smaller. The determination coefficient of the fitting equation between the number of pile bored and the mean pore size is 0.94. When the mean pore size is less than 8 μm, the number of drill down penetrating fabric is less than 23. The breathability to drilling ratio (the ratio of permeability and the number of drilled down) is proposed to evaluate comprehensive the anti-drilling property and breathability. It is found that the less the pore size variation coefficient is, the larger the breathability to drilling ratio becomes, and the better comprehensive performance the fabrics have.

      Effect of open/closed air layer on thermal protective performance of flame-resistant fabrics
      WANG Qi, TIAN Miao, SU Yun, LI Jun, YU Mengfan, XU Xiao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  54-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200303105
      Abstract ( 311 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2255KB) ( 197 )   Save
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      To investigate the effects of heat transfer modes on appearance and thermal protective performance of thermal protective clothing with an air layer, the thermal protective performance (TPP) tester was established to simulate the actual spatial relationship between the human skin and garment with an open or closed air layer. Color image processing was used to evaluate the shrinkage of the fabrics before and after the heat exposure. The heat transfer and thermal protective performance of the “fabric-air layer” system were evaluated from the perspectives of energy transfer, TPP value and second degree burn time. Experimental results reveal that the presence of air layer decreases the heat transfer efficiency and improves the thermal protective performance of the flame-resistant fabrics. However, it also accelerates the aging and thermal shrinkage of the fabrics. When the heat exchange path between the air layer and the surrounding environment is opened, the fluid flow of heat within the air space becomes much sophisticated, and the thermal protective performance of fabric is further improved.

      Structural modeling and process practice of three-dimensional fully fashioned face masks woven by computerized flat knitting machine
      ZHAO Boyu, LIANG Xinhua, CONG Honglian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  59-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200505507
      Abstract ( 578 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (3436KB) ( 133 )   Save
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      In order to explore deeply the possibility of computerized flat knitting machines for creating fully fashioned knitted products, a knitted three-dimensional(3-D) fully fashioned face mask was chosen as the development object for structural modeling and process practicing in this research. The face size was firstly measured to determine the two-dimensional pattern for the mask. Then the process calculation was carried out based on the mask specifications, the four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine and the SDS-ONE APEX3 system were set up and used as development tools to establish the structural model of the knitting mask body, pocket opening for filter gasket, and ear belts of the mask. Results show that the rapid production of 3-D fully fashioned masks with both aesthetics and comfort are achieved by establishing the structural model for the specified design of the mask, and by combining the adjustment of the process parameters to optimize its production technology. In addition, high value-added mask products could be effectively developed when using functional raw materials.

      Abrasion resistance of suture at anchor eyelet for tendon-bone repair and its influencing factors
      ZHANG Qian, MAO Jifu, LÜ Luyao, XU Zhongmian, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  66-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200204407
      Abstract ( 473 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (6963KB) ( 134 )   Save
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      Suture anchors often fail in service due to the abrasion and fracture of suture at the interface between suture and anchor eyelet in clinic. However, the quantitative evaluation of the abrasion resistance of suture is still unascertained owing to the absence of an measurement technique. A abrasion testing device was constructed, and several commonly used sutures and anchors were selected for this experiment. The breaking force and abrasion resistance of the sutures were analyzed by altering the suture-pull angle (θSA) and the anchor rotation angle (θARA). The results show that the abrasion device could provide quantitative comparisons for different sutures. The monofilament structure of poly (p-dioxanone) suture demonstrates the highest breaking strength and exhibits superior abrasion resistance. The groove on the anchor eyelet surface results in inferior abrasion resistance, and the larger the groove size, the higher the abrasion resistance. The suture shows lower abrasion resistance at θSA=0° compared with that at θSA=45°. For the anchor without groove, the suture displayed higher abrasion resistance at θARA=90°. In contrast, for the anchor with groove, the suture showed higher abrasion resistance at θARA=0°.

      Bending property and damage mechanism of three-dimensional woven angle interlock SiCf/SiC composites
      YANG Tiantian, WANG Ling, QIU Haipeng, WANG Xiaomeng, ZHANG Diantang, QIAN Kun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  73-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200402708
      Abstract ( 408 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (10554KB) ( 107 )   Save
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      Targeting at the bending failure of ceramic matrix composites in service environment, the interaction mechanism between the bending stress of the composite material and the internal fibers during warp and weft bending was theoretically analyzed. Taking SiCf/SiC composite materials as an example, three-dimensional (3-D) images of internal fiber structure and pores were obtained using micro computed tomography. On this basis, the warp and weft directions of the three-dimensional woven angle interlock SiCf/SiC composite were tested respectively, and the bending damage mechanism was analyzed in the meso and micro scales. The results show that weft and warp performance of SiCf/SiC composite are significantly different, and the bending strength of the weft specimen is larger than that of the warp specimen. The bending damage modes of 3-D woven angle interlock SiCf/SiC composites are complex, in which the warp cracks mainly propagate at the warp and weft contact points, while the cracks of weft specimen mainly occur between the weft bundles, eventually leading to bending failure.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Research on forming process of bulge at start of jet printing conductive circuit on fabric surfaces
      XIAO Yuan, WANG Pan, ZHANG Wei, ZHANG Chengkun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  81-86.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200307106
      Abstract ( 216 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (4207KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      In order to improve the forming quality of the conductive circuit on a fabric surface printed by the microdroplet jet printing technique, a high-speed camera was used to capture the process of droplet-jet printing conductive circuit in view of the bulged deposition lines at the start. The dynamic changes of left and right contact angles during the fusion oscillation between droplet, the fusion of droplet with the circuits and the process of transporting liquid to the starting of the line were studied according to the bulge elimination scheme. The results show that during the oscillation process of droplets coalescence, the oscillation trend towards the starting end is always greater than the other end, causing continuous expansion of the substrate wetting area at start of the printing circuit. After the droplets contact the circuit, part of the liquid wets the substrate to extend the length of the circuit, and the rest of the liquid is transported to the starting of the circuit at a constant speed to form a bulge. The surface of the fabric moistened with the ascorbic acid solution eliminates the bulging at the start of the forming circuit, leading to formation of expected uniform dimension of the deposited lines.

      Preparation and properties of conveyor belt reinforced by F-12 aramid fabric
      LI Meizhen, ZHAO Shiyi, FENG Yanli, GUO Xiaoqing, YU Xiaoqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  87-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200300808
      Abstract ( 298 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (4837KB) ( 191 )   Save
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      In order to improve the adhesion between F-12 aramid fabric and rubber in conveyor belt, epoxy resin and coupling agent A187 were used to modify the fabric. The optimum dosage of epoxy was determined by film forming analysis. The optimum dosage of coupling agent A187 was determined by measuring the hydrophilic height of the modified fabric and the tensile strength of the modified fabric after immersion in resorcinol formaldehyde resin emulsion. Based on the above, the modification of the fabric was vulcanized, and the optimal modification process was determined by testing the peel strength between the fabric and rubber. The results show that when the content of epoxy resin is 25% (o.w.f) and the content of coupling agent A187 is 1.2% (o.w.f), the comprehensive performance of the F-12 aramid fabric conveyor belt is the best. It is found that the fabric with the lowest hydrophilic value turns to have the highest peel strength of 12.1 N/mm, which is higher than what is required in the industry standard. The tensile strength and elongation at break of the single layer conveyor belt are 6 495.25 N and 13% respectively, and 14 493.25 N and 14% for the double layer belt.

      Catalytic degradation of dye by metal phthalocyanine/multi-walled carbon nanotubes under simulated solar light
      XIA Yun, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  94-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200305008
      Abstract ( 320 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (4804KB) ( 203 )   Save
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      In order to expand the pH value of the Fenton system to degrade dye efficiently, the catalyst FePcCl16/multi-walled carbon nanotubes (FePcCl16/MWCNTs), synthesized by means of FePcCl16 loaded on MWCNTs via reflux with H2O2 as oxidant, was employed to degrade Acid Orange 7 dye (AO7) under simulated solar light irradiation. The catalytic performance, influencing factors and catalytic mechanism of the catalytic system were characterized by scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, thermogravimetric analyzer and X-ray diffractomer. The results show that the degradation rate of AO7 is 100% under acidic, inorganic salts and urea conditions in catalytic system, 97% under the neutral condition, and 75% under the alkaline condition. The degradation rate of AO7 is still above 95% after 5 cycles of the catalytic system. The results of catalytic mechanism show that the main active species of AO7 degradation in the catalytic system are hydroxyl radicals and superoxide radicals. Solar light irradiation promotes the production of active species to improve the catalytic performance of the system.

      Fabrication of photocatalytic floating spheres for degradation of methyl-orange under illumination of visible light
      SONG Yingqi, PAN Jiahao, WU Liguang, WANG Ting, DONG Chunying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  102-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200306909
      Abstract ( 381 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4772KB) ( 78 )   Save
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      In order to extend the application of heterogeneous photocatalytic technology in deep level treatment for special wastewater, a visible light-driven photocatalytic component deposited by visible light with high performance was prepared via adsorbed-layer nanoreactor synthesis coupling with thermal reduction treatment. Followed that, the porous polyurethane sponge particle was firstly employed as a carrier to load the photocatalytic component, and the supported polyurethane sponge was filled into a polypropylene hollow sphere to fabricate a floating photocatalytic sphere for photodegrading methyl-orange in high saline waste water. The results show that noble metal nanoparticles with small size could be deposited on the surface of TiO2 closely combined with TiO2 by adsorbed-layer nanoreactor synthesis. Due to the introduction of the Fermi level and the plasmon resonance effect into the photocatalytic components, the degradation performance for methyl orange is enhanced in highly saline wastewater illuminated by visible light. Because of loading by noble metal deposition photocatalytic components with high performance, the resulting floating photocatalytic spheres could also stably and efficiently degrade methyl orange in highly saline wastewater.

      Apparel Engineering
      Automatic identification of young women's neck-shoulder shapes based on images
      WANG Ting, GU Bingfei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  111-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200502607
      Abstract ( 324 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2655KB) ( 157 )   Save
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      In order to facilitate the automatic identification of young women's neck-shoulder shapes, 15 neck-shoulder shape parameters of 202 young women were measured in the form of three-dimensional point cloud data, and the parameters with a large degree of dispersion were determined through analysis, including the shoulder angle, back angle, shoulder depth/width ratio and armpit depth/width ratio. Combined with these four important body parameters, the neck-shoulder shape of young women was classified following the established classification rules. Based on the front and side images, the parameters required for neck-shoulder shape classification were obtained by extracting the human body contour and identifying the feature points, and the automatic identification of the neck-shoulder shape was achieved according to the body type classification rules. The results show that young women's neck-shoulder shape is divided into four categories, namely round wide shoulder, flat narrow shoulder, round drop shoulder, hunchback flat shoulder, accounting for 25.53%, 23.94%, 25.59% and 23.94%, respectively, of the total sample. The identification of the neck-shoulder shape based on the front and side images of 40 test samples is verified, and the accuracy ratio reaches 90%, indicating that the neck-shoulder shape automatic identification system constructed using this method is effective.

      Design and development of self-rescue floating swimsuit
      FANG Jialu, CHEN Mingyan, HUANG Zijing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  118-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200404206
      Abstract ( 450 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1447KB) ( 308 )   Save
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      In view of frequent occurrence of swimming drowning accidents and the lack of safety protection functions of traditional swimsuits, this research used the swimming pool environment as the test condition to study the self-rescue floating swimsuit that could be inflated in time for sudden drowning. The chemical reaction between baking soda and acetic acid to generate carbon dioxide gas quickly was applied to inflate the swimming suits, and thermoplastic polyurethane elastomer material was employed to make the gas storage bag. The inflatable structure of the airbag was fixed with a round hose and a gas valve by the hot melt glue connection to ensure the airbag tightness. The structure, color and fabric of the swimsuit were characterized and analyzed. The results show that the ratio of raw materials is the key to the buoyancy value of the airbag, 67% inflation in the upper airbags and 33% in the lower bags ensure that the head and neck are always exposed above the water. The self-rescue floating swimsuit facilitates the functional design and development of convenient operation, fast-inflating and night-lighting features, demonstrating a prototype swimming suit for reducing drowning accidents, and enabling timely self-rescue and rescue efficiency.

      Automatic measurement of key dimensions for Han-style costumes based on use of convolutional neural network
      WANG Yiwen, LUO Ronglei, KANG Yuzhe
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  124-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200505006
      Abstract ( 486 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (2049KB) ( 264 )   Save
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      In order to quickly and accurately obtain the key dimensions of the ancient Chinese Han-style costumes with scarce sample data, a clothing size measurement scheme based on the use of convolutional neural network was proposed in this paper. Firstly, a two-stage convolutional neural network model GlobalNet-RefineNet was built for detecting the key points. The accuracy of the key point recognition was improved through twice transfer learning and repeated iterative training. An algorithm was used to get the pixel distance between coordinate points. Combined with the tiles of Han-style costume and at least one real measurement size given in the museum or excavation report, the size data of the whole garment were obtained through proportional mapping. This research used the top of a Han-style costume as an example for experiments. The research results show that after two times of transfer learning, the model has a high degree of convergence and good training effect. The relative error of costume top size measured by this scheme is between 0.59%-4.17%. This research provides new ideas for the restoration research of traditional clothing and the measurement of cultural relics.

      WeChat marketing strategy of clothing brands
      LI Xue, HUANG Bin, SHEN Lei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  130-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200302607
      Abstract ( 644 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (2317KB) ( 304 )   Save
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      Closure of offline sales channels during special periods hinders the sales of clothing brands. Adopting the methods of theoretical modeling, case analysis and conclusion, a deep analyses and discussion on four marketing strategies including WeChat community, distribution, live broadcast and display under the circumstance were introduced when the offline channels for clothing brands were blocked. By comparing the characteristics and advantages of different strategies, the specific practical methods of the four strategies were summarized into six aspects, i.e., brand promotion, product display, cost expenditure, customer development, stickiness enhancement and personalized service. The actual situations of their applications were analyzed one by one according to the different practice methods, and the effect of the four strategies in the six aspects were summarized. It is concluded that the WeChat marketing layout system can be referred for marketing clothing brands when the normal outlet channels are blocked. It is advised that garment enterprises should formulate implementation plans according to their own resources and marketing objectives combined with the layout system to achieve the best marketing effect.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Fast location of yarn-bars on yarn-cage based on machine vision
      ZHANG Wenchang, SHAN Zhongde, LU Ying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  137-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200300607
      Abstract ( 291 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (7487KB) ( 55 )   Save
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      In order to realize automatic, digital and intelligent production in textile dyeing industry, a vision based locating method was proposed for an eye-in-hand system aiming at the problem of location of dense yarn-bars on yarn-cage, combing the offline with online detection information. The offline detection unit recognized and located all the yarn-bars on yarn-cage during the machine idle time, and the location information of the yarn-bars was sent to the database. The online detection unit calculated the positions of all the yarn-bars on the yarn-cage, and guided the robot picking or putting objects on the yarn-bars in the productive time. For the online detection a few yarn-bars were detected firstly, and then a least square method were used to calculate the rotation angle and translation vector of the yarn-cage between its online position and offline position. All the positions of yarn-bars on yarn-cage were calculated using the data from the database. Experiment results show that the proposed method offers accuracy, robustness and practicality.

      Natural frequency characterization based on Euler-Bernoulli beam theory on knitting seamless underwear
      DAI Ning, PENG Laihu, HU Xudong, CUI Ying, ZHONG Yaosen, WANG Yuefeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  144-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200401207
      Abstract ( 257 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3676KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      Aiming at the lack of theoretical models of natural frequencies of knitting needles in knitting seamless underwear and the difficulties in capturing needle vibration characteristics during knitting, Euler-Bernoulli beam theory was used to solve the vibration equation of knitting needles in the tangential direction of the cylinder to obtain the mode curve and natural frequency the knitting needle. ANSYS simulation was used to perform the model analysis on 6 needle exit positions on the second clear cam. The theoretical and numerical results are consistent and the relative error in calculating needle natural frequency is below 2.3%. The DIMAX series high-speed camera from German PCO company was used to obtain the lateral vibration curve of the knitting needles when they were forced to move along the triangular arc surface. The experimental results show that the natural frequency characteristics of the knitting needles can be accurately analyzed using the Euler-Bernoulli beam theory. The method of capturing the lateral vibration of the knitting needles involved in the experiment is of reference significance for the experimental research on the vibration characteristics of the knitting needles in circular weft knitting machines.

      Effect of nickel-phosphorus-nano-SiC-polytetrafluoroethylene electroless composite plating on lifetime of traveller for yarn spinning
      MA Shasha, WANG Junbo, LUO Qian, SI Fang, YANG Min'ge, CHEN Ningbo, ZHANG Xiaofeng, LI Bo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  151-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200306706
      Abstract ( 281 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (7533KB) ( 88 )   Save
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      In order to study and analyze the influence of different surface treatment processes on the performance of the traveler for yarn spinning and further improve the service life of the traveler, electroless plating was employed using a plating solution fabricated from nickel-phosphorus-nano-SiC-polytetrafluoroethylene (Ni-P-SiC-PTFE) to coat the traveller. The microstructure and performance of the traveler and the coating were characterized using scanning electron microscope, X-ray energy spectrometer and experimented on the ring spinning machine. The results show that compared to the Ni-P chemically coated traveler, the grains of Ni-P-SiC-PTFE chemical composite plated travellers are refined and uniform in thickness, and the coating is well attached to the substrate. It is found that the thickness of the coating is doubled, and the hardness of the coating is increased by 24.5%. After trial spinning using Ni-P-SiC-PTFE chemical composite plated travellers, yarn faults such as the yarn thin section, thick spots and neps are reduced by 40%, 18.8% and 10.3% respectively, and the breakage rate caused by the hanging of the traveler is reduced by 50%, and the wear of the traveler is reduced by 31.6%, demonstrating superiority over the Ni-P electroless traveller.

      Comprehensive Review
      Advances in fiber-based wearable electronic devices
      WANG Jilong, LIU Yan, JING Yuanyuan, XU Qingli, QIAN Xiangyu, ZHANG Yihong, ZHANG Kun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  157-165.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200205709
      Abstract ( 472 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1334KB) ( 508 )   Save
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      In order to facilitate applications of fiber-based flexible wearable electronic devices, upgrade flexible wearable electronics technology and drive the transformation of the traditional textile and clothing industry, the recent research development and advances in fiber-based wearable electronic devices were summarized in this review. According to the end-uses, fiber-based wearable devices were systematically classified into sensors, energy devices and other functional electronics. Problems in the development of fiber-based wearable equipment were discussed, and it is established that the research concentration of fiber-based wearable electronic devices will be focused on multi-interdisciplinary, electronic integration to form a system, safety, washability and wearing comfort. The fiber/yarn-based wearable electronic devices will play an important role in the next generation of multi-functional flexible wearable electronic products.

      Research progress of stitched composites and their marine applications
      LIN Chen, CHENG Ling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  166-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191004608
      Abstract ( 352 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (9442KB) ( 142 )   Save
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      Along with the vigorous development of marine resources, the application of composites in the marine field has been progressed rapidly. The interlaminar properties of traditional laminate composites are weak, and the stitching process could effectively improve its interlaminar properties. In view of the characteristics of the marine environment, the current research status of stitched composites under the marine environment was reviewed. The influence of the marine environment and stitching process on the interlaminar properties, impact damage resistance and in-plane properties of the stitched composites and their corresponding mechanisms were discussed and analyzed in this paper. The potential applications of stitched composites in ships, ship accessories, turbine blade and submarine gasoline fields were summarized. Problems to be solved for marine applications of stitched composites in the marine environment were summarized, and the development trend and application prospect of stitched composites in the marine environment in the future were proposed.

      Recent progress in gas-tight chemical protective clothing
      ZHANG Tingting, ZHANG Jie, TIAN Xinyu, CHEN Zhen, REN Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  174-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200205509
      Abstract ( 483 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3532KB) ( 346 )   Save
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      In view of the frequent and serious hazardous chemical accidents at home and abroad, the increasingly severe threat of bioterrorist attacks, the imperfection in research and development and production of chemical protective equipment, it is necessary to normalize the material development, structure design, production, performance testing, selection and application of personal protective equipment, especially the gas-tight chemical protective clothing. This paper briefly reviewed the product classification and their performance requirements of gas-tight chemical protective clothing according to international standards, American, European and Chinese national standards. The protective properties, structure characteristics, product certification and development status of gas-tight chemical protective clothing on the market were introduced. The properties and product certification of wide-used chemical protective materials were compared. The research status shows that despite few domestic manufacturers are engaged in the production of chemical protective fabrics with polymer membranes, the protective properties of some fabrics are able to meet the requirements of Chinese national, international and European standards. To this end, it is recommended that the relevant administrative departments continue to provide the necessary policy support for the chemical protection industry in order to implement the localization, scale and systemization of high-performance chemical protection equipment as soon as possible.

      Research progress of bio-based lignin flame retardant and its applications
      XIAO Mengyuan, ZHOU Xinke, ZHANG Jiayue, REN Yuanlin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(12):  182-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200305507
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      Lignin is a flame retardant material with complex chemical structure and low flame retardant efficiency, the research status of lignin in flame retardant materials at home and abroad was reviewed. This paper introduced four types of lignin flame retardants: single-component lignin-based flame retardants, lignin-based composite flame retardants, chemically modified lignin flame retardants and nano-lignin flame retardants. The specific role and problems of lignin in the flame retardant system was reviewed and analyzed. The characteristics and flame retardant mechanisms of all types of flame retardants were examined, leading to proposals of lignin development direction as bio-based flame retardants. The review revealed that among the four types of flame retardants, lignin-based composite flame retardants and chemically modified lignin flame retardants have the best flame retardant properties, and the combination of lignin with other materials and structural modification of lignin will be the focus of future research.