Table of Content

15 March 2021, Volume 42 Issue 03

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Invited Column:Full-process Open Width Printing and Dyeing Technology for Knitted Fabric

Catalytic degradation of lignin and lignin model compound by copper complexes in bleaching cotton knitted fabrics

LIU Libin, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200903308

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In order to improve the bleaching efficiency of cotton knitted fabrics and to further understand the bleaching mechanisms, divalent copper ions, iminodiacetic acid and 4-dimethylaminopyridine were utilized to prepare a copper complex catalyst. A bleaching system was constructed to study the change of whiteness of catalyst bleached cotton knitted fabric under different temperatures in a short time. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry was used to analyze the degradation of lignin and lignin model compound in the intermediate and final products, and to study the bleaching mechanism. The results show that after reacting for 5 minutes at 90 ℃, the whiteness value of the cotton knitted fabric reaches about 78%, the capillary effect can goes to 17.9 cm, and the strength retention rate of the fabric is about 98%. Both lignin and its model compound can be degraded into aromatic hydrocarbon molecules and further mineralized into water and carbon dioxide. The improvement of conditions used in the bleaching process using the bleaching system can effectively improve the bleaching efficiency of cotton knitted fabrics and the research findings on the bleaching mechanism provide reference for improving the bleaching system.

Effect of open width pretreatment on dyeing property of cotton knitted fabrics

ZHANG Tengjialu, WU Wei, ZHONG Yi, MAO Zhiping, XU Hong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  9-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201005605

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The open width continuous pretreatment of knitted fabric has the advantages of high efficiency, water saving and low cost. However, there is a problem of low apparent color yield in subsequent dyeing of semi-finished products after the treatment. In order to solve this problem, cotton knitted fabric properties and fiber structure after the open width pretreatment were measured and analyzed. The results show that compared with the traditional impregnation pretreatment, the cotton knitted fabric after open width pretreatment has higher strength, similar whiteness and capillary effect, lower fixation rate and K/S value after pad dyeing, the supramolecular structure of the cotton fiber is quite different from that of the traditional impregnation pretreatment. Compared with the impregnation process, the crystallinity of the fiber after open width pretreatment is higher, the pore size distribution is narrower, and the total pore volume and pore surface area is smaller. By adding semi-mercerizing treatment, the open width pretreatment process is improved.

Durable fluoride-free water-repellent finishing of polyamide/cotton blended fabric

LU Xue, LIU Xiuming, FANG Kuanjun, LI Hanyu, LI Xiang, GAO Chuang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  14-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200905907

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In order to meet the special requirements of polyamide/cotton blended fabrics for outdoor sports end-uses, the blended fabrics were coated with fluorine-free water-repellent agent (CWR-9A), and an adhesive was added to further improve the adhesion fastness between the water-repellent and the fabric. The effect of water-repellent mass concentration, baking time, baking temperature, adhesive type, different volume ratios of adhesives and CWR-9A, washing times were studied on water-repellent treated fabrics. For the polyamide/cotton blended fabrics, the optimal water-repellent finishing process is 120 g/L CWR-9A, temperature at 170 ℃, baking time duration 90 s, and the volume ratio of BD-01 to CWR-9A is 1∶20. The surface structure and morphology of the water-repellent agent and treated fabric were characterized, and the contact angle and water-repellent grade of the treated fabric were measured. The results indicate that adhesion fastness between polyamide/cotton blended fabrics treated with adhesive BD-01 and water repellent CWR-9A is significantly improved. The maximum contact angle is 138°, and the water-repellent grade reaches level 5.

Finite element analysis of loop shape in weft knitted fabrics with small deformation based on homogenization theory

LÜ Changliang, HAO Zhiyuan, CHEN Huimin, ZHANG Huile, YUE Xiaoli

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  21-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200905306

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In order to explore the problem of easy deformation of knitted fabrics in the process of open-width printing and dyeing, a cotton plain weft knitted fabric was taken as the research object. Based on asymptotic expansion of small parameters and homogenization of multi-scale perturbation analysis under small strain, a calculation model for macroscopic and microscopic change rate of displacement and strain of the knitted fabric was built. The model was used to analyze the loop shape change under small deformation, and the results show that when the knitted fabric is stretched by uniform load, the deformation of the loop is non-uniform, and the deformation is related to the position of the loop, width and the distance between guide rollers. The convex cloth guide roller can improve the difference of loop deformation. The calculated value of loop deformation of knitted fabric is found consistent with the measured value under the uniform and non-uniform load, and the maximum error is 9.6%. This means that the combination of homogenization theory and finite element technology can be used to further analyze the macro and micro deformation of multi-component and multi-specification knitted fabrics, and it can also provide theoretical guidance for tension control of open-width printing and dyeing equipment of knitted fabric, and for the layout design of cloth guide rollers and development of roll shape (concave convex roller) of variable diameters.

Research progress of low-temperature bleaching of cotton fabrics catalyzed by metal complexes

WU Shouying, ZHANG Linping, XU Hong, ZHONG Yi, MAO Zhiping

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  27-35.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200902709

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In order to study the application of metal complex catalysts in low-temperature bleaching of cotton fabrics, and to develop metal complexes with better performance, the relevant researches at home and abroad were reviewed. The metal complexes based on several types of ligands such as cyclic polyamines, Schiff bases, pyridines, porphyrins and phthalocyanines used in low-temperature bleaching were introduced and examined. The bleaching performance of the metal complex/hydrogen peroxide bleaching system and the traditional cotton fabric oxygen bleaching system were compared and analyzed. The results show that the metal complexes are a type of efficient catalysts, which effectively solve the problems of high energy consumption and serious fabric damage in the traditional bleaching process. Finally, the deficiencies of the current metal complex catalysts are pointed out, and the future research and development of the metal complex catalysts are prospected.

Fiber Materials

Preparation and properties of Si/TiO₂ composite carbon nanofibers

XING Yusheng, HU Yi, CHENG Zhongling

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  36-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200501508

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In order to improve the morphology and structure of silicon/carbon nanofibers and enhance their energy storage performance, Si/TiO₂/PAN nanofiber membranes was prepared though electrospinning of the ball milling Si/TiO₂ powder and polyacrylonitrile(PAN), and then in an argon or hydrogen atmosphere carbonization treatment was carried out to obtain Si/TiO₂ composite carbon nanofibers. The most suitable ratio of Si to TiO₂ and carbonization temperature were optimized, the influence of fiber morphology, molecular structure, and element distribution on energy storage performance were analyzed. As a result, Si/TiO₂ composite carbon nanofibers with good conductivity were prepared under the conditions of 1∶2 mass ratio between Si and TiO₂ and 900 ℃ carbonization temperature. The fiber structure and the formed TiO₂ disordered framework were able to ease effectively the volume expansion and agglomeration of silicon, significantly improving the capacity and cycle stability of lithium-ion batteries. At 0.2 mA/g current density and after 120 cycles, the discharge specific capacities of the composite carbon nanofibers prepared by argon and hydrogen carbonization were 942 and 1 212 mA·h/g, respectively. The work showed that the composite carbon nanofibers prepared through hydrogen carbonization have better rate performance.

Preparation and piezoelectric properties of carbon nanotubes/polyvinylidene fluoride nanofiber membrane

ZHANG Yike, JIA Fan, GUI Cheng, JIN Rui, LI Rong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  44-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200305207

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In order to improve the piezoelectric properties of polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) nanofiber membrane, carbon nanotubes (CNTs) were introduced in PVDF nanofiber membrane to fabricate CNTs/PVDF nanofiber membrane by electrospinning, and a simple flexible piezoelectric sensor with a sandwich structure was assembled. The effect of the mass fraction of CNTs on the piezoelectric properties of CNTs/PVDF nanofiber membrane was investigated. The morphology, structure, mechanical properties and piezoelectric properties of the nanofibers were characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, universal testing machine and digital oscilloscope. The results show that CNTs/PVDF nanofiber membrane has good mechanical properties, and the addition of CNTs into the fiber supports the formation of β crystal type in the crystal structure. When the mass fraction of CNTs is 5%, the content of β crystal type is the highest in the crystal structure of CNTs/PVDF nanofiber, and the piezoelectric performance is the strongest. Under such conditions, the output voltage of the flexible sensor reached the maximum value of 7.5 V.

Preparation of polyacrylonitrile hollow porous shaped fibers and its performance

WANG Huiyun, WANG Ping, LI Yuanyuan, ZHANG Yan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  50-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200607606

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In order to obtain hollow porous fibers with thermal insulation performance, the coaxial wet spinning method was used to prepare irregular polyacrylonitrile fibers with both hollow and mesoporous structures. Polyacrylonitrile (PAN) and N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF) were blended to get cortical solution, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and DMF were blended to get core solution. Subsequently, the solution was introduced to the coagulation bath through the coaxial shaped spinneret to obtain the primary fibers, and then the PAN-based shaped fibers with high porosity were obtained after washing and drying. Orthogonal experiments were adopted to optimize reaction conditions, and the structures and performance of the fiber were characterized. The results show that the fiber cross-section is of shaped profiles, and the sheath has a three-level structure with multi-scale pore diameters, including micropores (200 μm), submicron pores (200 nm) and nanopores (20 nm). The concentration of cortical solution is the main factor affecting the specific surface area of fiber. The breaking strength of the fiber can reach 390.88 cN. The thermal insulation performance of fiber is better than that of wool.

Application of rabbit hair based hollow carbon fiber in lithium-sulfur battery

CHEN Junyan, JU Jingge, DENG Nanping, YANG Qi, CHENG Bowen, KANG Weimin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  56-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200602108

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In order to develop a high-performance and low-cost lithium-sulfur battery cathode sulfur storage material, the rabbit hair hollow carbon fiber (RC) with heteroatom doping was successfully prepared by using natural biomass fiber as the precursor. After pretreatment and carbonization, the sulfur/rabbit hair carbon fiber (S/RC) composite material is prepared by hot melting method. The effects of different carbonization temperatures on the morphology and structure of carbon fibers, the crystalline structure and conductivity of S/RC composites, the electrochemical performance of lithium-sulfur batteries and the stability of cyclic charge and discharge were discussed. The results show that when the pretreatment temperature is 300 ℃ and the carbonization temperature is 800 ℃, the morphology and structure of the prepared rabbit hair hollow carbon fiber are the most intact; the battery prepared with it has a first discharge specific capacity of 899 mA·h/g, and at 0.5C after 300 cycles, the discharge specific capacity became 598 mA·h/g, retaining 66.52% of the original specific capacity. Under high rate conditions, the battery still has a high discharge specific capacity, and the discharge specific capacities at 1C and 2C are 543.8 and 505.4 mA·h/g respectively.

Kinetic study on synthesis of bottle polyester using Ti-Mg catalyst

GUAN Zhenyu, ZHOU Wenle, ZHANG Yumei, WANG Huaping

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  64-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700907

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In order to study the effect of activity and hydrolysis resistance of titanium magnesium composite catalyst (TMPC) on the properties of high viscosity polyester for bottle production, the hydrolysis characteristics of the TMPC catalyst, molecular weight of polyester, acetaldehyde (AA) content and color of polyester were investigated, and the kinetics of esterification, melt polycondensation and solid-state polycondensation of different catalytic systems were studied in detail. The results show that TMPC is resistant to hydrolysis and has obvious catalytic effects on esterification and polycondensation. TMPC was found to be 36 times as active as antimony catalyst under the same polymerization conditions. The polycondensation time was proved 60 minutes shorter than that of ethylene glycol antimony (EGA), and the activity energy of esterification is lower than that of EGA and ethylene glycol titanium (EGT). The solid-state polycondensation rate of TMPC is close to that of EGA, and the activation energy is slightly higher than that of EGA. The high viscosity polyester with number-average molecular weight of 25 734 g/mol was obtained by solid-state polycondensation. The color phase of the product is similar to that of EGA catalyzed polyester, and the acetaldehyde content was as low as 0.59 μg/g, which could be used as a green and efficient catalyst for high viscosity bottle grade polyester.

Preparation of SiO₂ in-situ doped polyvinylidene fluoride nanofiber membrane and its properties

CHENG Yue, AN Qi, LI Dawei, FU Yijun, ZHANG Wei, ZHANG Yu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  71-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200805206

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To improve the piezoelectric properties of polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), silicon dioxide (SiO₂) in-situ doped PVDF composite nano fiber membranes were prepared via the sol-gel method and high-voltage electrospinning technology with PVDF and ethylsilicate (TEOS) as raw materials, N, N-dimethyl formamide (DMF) and acetone as mixed solvent. Surface micromorphology, chemical composition, mechanical and piezoelectric properties of the nanofiber membranes were compared and analyzed. Results show that the mass and thickness of composite nanofiber membranes ascended with the increase of TEOS. Electrospinning converted part of the α phase in PVDF to β phase, and the β phase content of pure PVDF nanofiber membrane was (31.42±0.62)%, which was 1.54 times higher than PVDF powder. Moreover, the content of β phase was further improved by in-situ doping of nano-SiO₂, and peak value of (42.59±0.62)% was achieved when the mass of TEOS was 1.643 g. With the increase of nano-SiO₂, both tensile force and output voltage of composite nanofiber membranes demonstrated an increase-decrease trend. In addition, when the mass of TEOS was 1.643 g, SiO₂ in-situ doped PVDF nanofiber membrane exhibited the highest tensile strength and output voltage, which were (8.03±0.19) N, and (2.33±0.13) V, respectively.

Textile Engineering

Analysis of back draft effect and yarn structure of Siro fancy yarn with special appearance structure

RUAN Li, SUN Rongji, LIU Jihong, LI Yonggui

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  77-81.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200705005

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In order to develop a new type of fancy yarn, the grooved back-top roller was used on the spinning frame, and the force of the rear nip strand of fibers and yarn structure with the fancy rubber-covered roll were analyzed. Tested on the TH598J spinning frame, the mass distribution of the whiskers output from the middle roller after one rotation of the tuber roller was measured by the cut-off weighing method, and the mass distribution of the whiskers output from the normal rubber roller and the fancy yarn rubber roller was obtained respectively. The draft curve of the back zone of normal rubber roller and fancy yarn rubber roller is obtained respectively by the draft formula, at the same time the density of the formed yarn analyzed, so as to explore the change of the appearance structure of this fancy yarn. The results indicate that the grooved rubber roller gradually reduces the draft ratio of the rear zone from normal to 1 and then gradually increases to normal. The section of the strand of fibers passing through the groove affects the draft of the front and back sections of the strand of fibers. The draft ratio is reduced from normal, so that the yarn density also changes, and a new type of Siro fancy yarn with a special appearance structure is obtained.

Yarn defect detection based on improved image threshold segmentation algorithm

LI Dongjie, GUO Shuai, YANG Liu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  82-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700407

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Aiming at the problems of poor reliability, low sensitivity and low speed of yarn defect detection in the textile industry, a new yarn defect detection method based on digital image processing was proposed. A yarn image acquisition system is built to obtain yarn image. In view of the difficulty of yarn edge information processing and the poor effect of traditional bilateral filtering on pepper-and-salt noise processing, the bilateral filtering was worked on for improvement, and the improved bilateral filtering was shown to be effective for preserving the yarn edge data. Furthermore, aiming at the problem of large amount of calculation and difficulty in finding the optimal threshold, the optimal threshold calculation method of traditional threshold segmentation algorithm is improved. The improved threshold segmentation algorithm not only ensures the processing effect, but also improves the processing speed of the whole algorithm. Sub-pixel is used to calculate the yarn edge and improve the accuracy of yarn defect detection. The experimental results verified the effectiveness and reliability of the algorithm, and increased the detection speed by more than 20% while improving the accuracy, which is of great significance for improving the accuracy of yarn quality detection.

Detection of fabric shape retention based on image processing

TANG Qianhui, WANG Lei, GAO Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  89-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200707906

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In order to evaluate the shape retention of a fabric comprehensively and accurately, a dynamic detection system was developed to simulate the recovery process of fabric flattening after being creased in daily uses. The video sequence of fabric crease recovery is obtained by the detection system, and the single frame video image at each time is extracted by the program, and then the image is preprocessed, binarized and refined in turn. The indexes reflecting the fabric shape retention, including angle, height and shape preserving area, are extracted. The experimental results show that in the crease recovery stage, the change rate of each index gradually decreases with time. Under the condition of pressure 10 N and pressure time 10 s, the sample tends to become stable after 60 s in recovery stage. A linear relationship exists between the angle at 60 s and the wrinkle recovery angle measured by the existing standard method, and relationships between the height, shape retention area and the drape coefficient are linear too. The results show that the system can predict the wrinkle recovery angle and drape coefficient of fabric through the three indexes of angle, height and shape retention area, and it can accurately describe the dynamic change process of fabric shape, and can be used to evaluate the fabric shapes accurately and comprehensively.

Evaluation method and prediction model establishment of cooling performance of knitted fabrics

YANG Yang, YU Xin, ZHANG Weijing, ZHANG Peihua

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  95-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200401607

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There is no definite systematic characterization and test method to evaluate the cooling performance of knitted fabrics. A novel evaluation method of cooling performance of knitted fabrics was introduced. This method was characterized by the thermal transfer performance of dry fabric and the cooling performance triggered by thermal transfer, moisture diffusion and evaporation of wet fabrics. Based on the evaluation theory of thermal transfer behavior of fabrics, relevant evaluation indexes including cooling temperature, cooling temperature index and cooling capacity index were proposed. The correlation analysis of the cooling parameters and the relevant thermal comfort parameters of 34 knitted fabrics were conducted, and the prediction models of cooling performance parameters were established based on stepwise multiple regression analysis. The results show that the cooling performance of knitted fabrics are mainly linearly related their thermal resistance, water vapor resistance, diffusion radius and drying rate. The cooling capacity index can be predicted by thermal resistance, water vapor resistance and drying rate of knitted fabrics, and the cooling temperature can be predicted by thermal resistance and diffusion radius of knitted fabrics.

Wearability of hollow coffee carbon polyester/cotton blended weft plain knitted fabric

ZHANG Chentian, ZHAO Lianying, GU Xuefeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  102-109.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200800308

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In order to study the influence of hollow coffee carbon polyester content on the wearability of hollow coffee carbon polyester fabrics, five blending ratios of hollow coffee carbon polyester/cotton fiber were designed. Ten groups of yarns were made by ring spinning and Siro spinning, and weft plain knitted fabrics of the same specification were made. Fabric bursting, pilling, air permeability, moisture permeability and thermal performance were tested and analyzed. Based on regression analysis, the relationship between content of hollow coffee carbon polyester and fabric bursting, pilling, air permeability, moisture permeability and thermal insulation performance was obtained, and a comprehensive performance evaluation was established to make a comprehensive evaluation for fabric wearability. The results show that with the increase of hollow coffee carbon polyester content, the bursting strength, air permeability, moisture permeability and heat preservation performance of the fabric increases, and the pilling performance become worse, and the comprehensive value of the siro-yarn fabric was always higher than that of ring-yarn fabric. Compared with ordinary poly-cotton blended fabric, hollow coffee carbon polyester/cotton blended fabric has at least 66% higher permeability increased, also 10% higher moisture permeability and 2.6 times higher thermal performance.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Influence of methylene succinic acid cross-linking on properties of starch sizing agents

LI Wei, ZHANG Zhengqiao, WU Lanjuan, LIU Qian, WEI Anfang, CHENG Xuedong, WANG Tairan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  110-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200303706

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In order to enhance sizing performance of starch sizing agents, methylene succinic acid cross-linked starch (MSACLS) samples with different levels of cross-linking were prepared with semi-dry method by using methylene succinic acid (MSA) as cross-linking agent. The structure and surface morphology of MSACLS were characterized, and the influence of MSA cross-linking on viscosity stability, adhesion of starch, and tensile properties and solubility of the size membrane were investigated. The results show that the cross-linking can obviously enhance viscosity stability of starch and its adhesion to polyester fibers, improve tensile properties of starch membrane and reduce its solubility. With the increase in the cross-linking degree, viscosity stability of MSACLS, its adhesion to polyester fibers and tensile strength of the size membrane gradually increase, breaking elongation of the membrane shows a trend of increasing and then decreasing, and solubility of the membrane gradually reduces. It is suitable to use MSACLS with a cross-linking degree of 49.4 in the sizing of polyester warps.

Rapid detection method of single-component dye liquor concentration based on machine vision

TIAN Yuhang, WANG Shaozong, ZHANG Wenchang, ZHANG Qian

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  115-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200502207

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A method based on machine vision was proposed to detect the concentration of dye liquor with a single-component for the printing and dyeing industry.With this method, a machine vision detection platform was built with a color adjustable backlight source and an industrial color camera. The single-component dye liquor sample with a concentration range of 0-0.4 g/L was placed on a backlight light source through a glass dish for image acquisition and processing, in order to obtain the color characteristic values of the dye liquor, and to get the relationship between the RGB value and concentration of dye liquor under different light source conditions.Based on Lambert-Beer law, the relational model between the RGB value and dye liquor concentration was built to predict the concentration of dye in the dye liquor.It is verified by experimental fact that for the DRA-3R dye liquor, the minimum value model established under the condition of blue light intensity 50 has the highest prediction accuracy. The absolute value of the average relative error of the results is 3.35%. Experiments show that the method offers fast detection speed and low cost, which provides a certain research base for industrial application of on-line detection of dye liquor concentration.

Preparation and properties of high efficiency halogen-free flame-retardant cotton fabrics

MA Ya'nan, SHEN Junyan, LUO Xiaolei, ZHANG Cong, SHANG Xiaolei, LIU Lin, KRUCINSKA Izabella, YAO Juming

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  122-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200603408

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In order to improve the flame retardancy and durability of cotton fabrics, halogen-free durable flame retardant cotton fabrics were prepared by applying phosphorylation modification with NH₄H₂PO₄ and urea as the raw materials. The effects of the molar ratio of the raw materials, reaction time and reaction temperature on the grafting rate and whiteness of flame-retardant cotton fabrics were studied. The optimum finishing process was identified to be 90 min reaction time, 130 ℃ reaction temperature, 1∶2.5∶15 raw material mole ratio among dehydrated glucose unit (AGU), NH₄H₂PO₄ and urea. The flame-retardancy, washing resistance and mechanical properties of fabrics were studied The limit oxygen index (LOI) of the flame retardant cotton fabric was increased from 18% to 50.9%, reaching the noncombustible level. After 800 ℃ thermal decomposition, the carbon residue increased to 40.0%, showing excellent thermal stability. At the same time, after 30 standard washing tests, the LOI value can still reach 28.5%, which shows good washing resistance. This method can be used to achieve efficient and durable flame-retardancy of cotton fabrics.

Preparation and performance of nano-silica modified water-based polyurethane waterproof and moisture-permeable coated fabrics

DING Zihan, QIU Hua

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  130-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200407206

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In order to improve the water resistance of water-based polyurethane, R972 hydrophobic fumed nano-silica was used to blend and modify the water-based polyurethane, and a pure cotton knitted fabric was treated to improve the waterproof and moisture permeability of the fabric. The structure and morphology of nano-silica water-borne polyurethane coatings were characterized by infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and super depth-of-field microscope. The effect of nano-silica content on the waterproof and moisture-permeable properties of fabrics was investigated using the single factor analysis. The results show that hydrophobic fumed nano-silica demonstrates a good nano-effect in aqueous polyurethane systems, and its addition has no great effect on the structure of the aqueous polyurethane coating film. When the nano-silica content is 1.5%, the water absorption of the coating film decreased by 55.4%, the moisture permeability of the coated fabric increased by 54.7%, the hydrostatic pressure resistance and contact angle increased by 86% and 131.4% repectively, and its mechanical properties were also significantly improved.

Luminescent properties of rare earth aluminate on fabrics

ZHAO Huan, PAN Li, CUI Xiaoshuang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191005207

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In order to improve the luminous printing effect of rare earth aluminate on fabrics,the method of single factor analysis and orthogonal experimental study were adopted to investigate the effect of the particle size and theadding quantity of the luminescent material, adhesive concentration, mesh number and the baking conditions on the preparation of printing performance of pure cotton and polyester/cotton (65/35) fabrics. Under the optimal preparation conditions, the influences of different colored luminescent materials and different colored fabric substrates on luminescent printing effect were explored. Finally, the wearability of printed fabrics with better luminescent effect was tested and analyzed. The experimental results show that the best parameters of luminescent printing process are 30 μm particle size of luminescent material, 25% content of luminescent material, 50% concentration of adhesive, 80 mesh number of the screen, with 160 ℃ baking for 3 min. Individual differences in the luminescence effect exist for different color substrates, among which the higher the luminosity of the fabric substrates, the better the luminescence effect.The wearability of the light-emitting printed fabric is regarded as acceptable.

Preparation and properties of Ag/ZnO composite film deposited polyester fabrics by magnetron sputtering

MENG Lingling, WEI Qufu, YAN Zhongjie, ZHONG Zhenzhen, WANG Xiaohui, SHEN Jiayu, CHEN Hongwei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  143-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200501806

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In order to study the effect of polyester fabric structure on the morphology and performance of nanocomposite film deposited on the surface of fabrics, direct current (DC) and radio frequency (RF)co-sputtering methods were used to prepare Ag/ZnO films with knitted polyester fabrics of different structures as the substrate and metallic silver and zinc oxide as targets respectively. By using field emission scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, photoelectron spectrometer, computer measurement and matching system, ultraviolet transmittance tester, electromagnetic radiation tester, the films were evaluated in terms of surface structure, color analysis, UV protection and electromagnetic shielding performance. The experimental results show that the particle size of the film on the surface of the nonwoven fabric is more uniform, the surface of the woven fabric is less smooth, the surface particle of the knitted fabric is smaller, and some particle amalgamation are found. Diffraction peaks with Ag are more obvious, but ZnO still exists in amorphous form. After depositing Ag/ZnO film on the surface of knitted fabric, its brightness is the lowest and the color is dark. The samples with nonwoven fabric as substrate demonstrate the most obvious ultraviolet resistance and electromagnetic shielding effect.

Apparel Engineering

Research and application of process modeling of single-piece double-layer knitted garments

ZHAN Biqin, CONG Honglian, WU Guangjun

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702107

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In order to explore deeply the complex style structure of single-piece knitted garments and to enrich the models of single-piece knitted garments, the design method and knitting process of four-needle bed single-piece double-layer knitted garments were studied. On the basis of the research of the four-needle bed single-piece single-layer clothing, the prototype pattern of the double-layer clothing structure is designed through analyzing the characteristics of the human body shape, the looseness of the human body and the characteristics of the clothing prototype. A typical double-layer structure upper garment was designed based on the paper pattern, and its layout design, process method and forming principle were analyzed. The results show that in the process of transforming from a single-layer garment to a double-layer garment, the inner and outer layers are formed through an integrated knitting process to form a style model; the connection model has four ways to maintain the body balance: O, X, H and XO, and to ensures the precise adjustment of the size difference between the inner and outer layers; and the detailed model is formed by tuck knitting and partial knitting. According to the knitting process parameters and the structural difference between the inner and outer layers of clothing, a single-piece double-layer clothing suitable for the body curve is created.

Simulation and optimization of Flexsim shirt assembly line based on improved ant colony algorithm

ZHANG Suning, WANG Ze, MA Dali

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  155-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700606

Abstract ( 504 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2259KB) ( 143 )   Save

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Aiming at the problems of uneven load, long fabrication cycle and limited improvement in production efficiency by traditional layout optimization method of garment assembly line, research optimization and simulation of garment assembly line was carried out, taking men's shirt assembly line as an example, based on the use of the improved ant colony optimization (IACO) algorithms and Flexsim software, focusing on the two factors of product delivery time and delivery path. Garment assembly line was disassembled and optimized at first, which led to the increase of establishment efficiency from 54.07% to 75.95%. The time of bottleneck was reduced, but the efficiency of garment assembly line still needed to be increase. On this basis, using IACO for secondary optimization, the mathematical and simulated model on assembly line was constructed, and Flexsim simulation showed that the daily output increased from 498 to 592 pieces, the efficiency was further improved, and establishment efficiency increased to 88.96%. The work demonstrated the suitability of IACO and Flexsim for optimization and simulation of garment assembly line, and for wider applications too.

Machinery & Accessories

Electrostatic adsorption model based on characteristics of weft knitted fabrics

LIU Lidong, LI Xinrong, LIU Hanbang, LI Dandan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  161-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700808

Abstract ( 375 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2632KB) ( 173 )   Save

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In order to improve the utilization rate of industrial robots in textile and garment industry, and to expand the application range of electrostatic adsorption end-effector, this research worked to solve the problem in automatic fabric grasping and transferring during garment processing, taking weft knitted fabrics as example. Through analyzing the structural characteristics of weft knitted fabrics, the influence of fiber composition on the adsorption capacity, the three-dimensional structure simulation model of fabric element and the calculation model of fabric relative dielectric constant were established respectively, on the basis of which the electrostatic adsorption model of weft knitted fabrics was built. The adsorption force model was verified by simulation software. The results show that the model can calculate the adsorption capacity of electrostatic plate to weft knitted fabric. This research provides a new idea for realizing automatic grasping and transferring of cloth.

Suppression of high frequency noise of tufted carpet loom based on statistical energy analysis

ZHANG Ziyu, XU Yang, SHENG Xiaowei, XIE Guosheng

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  169-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200704006

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In order to effectively suppress the high frequency noise of tufted carpet loom, a statistical energy analysis (SEA) was proposed, where a melamine porous sound absorption material was used to suppress high frequency noise. In this research, the SEA model of high frequency noise of tufted carpet loom with 13 structural subsystems and 10 acoustic cavities was established, and then the modal density, internal loss factor and coupling loss factor of each subsystem were determined by using a theoretical calculation method. The vibration acceleration signal of tufted carpet loom was measured to obtain the high frequency noise sound pressure level of SEA model. The validity of SEA model was verified by comparing with the actual sound pressure level of tufted carpet loom, before the surface of tufted carpet loom was adhered with different thickness of melamine porous sound absorbing foam board to achieve noise reduction. The result shows that the method can meet the engineering requirements for high frequency noise suppression, and the noise frequency and the thickness of the melamine porous sound-absorbing material have influence on the results.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress in graphene/polymer composite fibers and textiles

JIANG Zhaohui, LI Yonggui, YANG Zitao, GUO Zengge, ZHANG Zhanqi, QI Yuanzhang, JIN Jian

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  175-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200203806

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In view of the poor spinnability, high cost and difficult dispersion of high-purity graphene fibers, functional modification methods of graphene are summarized, and the research progress in polymer-based graphene fibers and fabrics is reviewed. Based on the analysis of the interaction between graphene and polymer matrix, the mechanism of graphene effect on the microstructure of polymer-based graphene fibers is also discussed, and the technical challenges and theoretical problems in the development of polymer-based graphene textiles are put forward. This review indicates that due to the high conductivity of graphene and flexibility of polymer matrix, the polymer-based graphene fibers have good flexibility and weavability, ensuring their good conductivity under the conditions of tension, torsion, impact, and so on. This is expected to accelerate the development process of flexible, wearable and smart textiles. It is pointed out that in face of the high cost of graphene, using controllable and predictable processing technology to solve the high dispersion of graphene, to achieve the high-efficiency under the low addition of graphene and to reduce the high cost, is an important research direction of polymer-based graphene textiles.

Research progress of applications of photo-induced surface modification technique in flame retardant fabrics

ZHOU Yingyu, WANG Rui, JIN Gaoling, WANG Wenqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  181-189.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200601410

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In order to improve the durability and washable resistance of flame retardant textiles, and to balance between the flame retardant modification and green finishing, environmental protection, photo-induced surface modification for flame retardancy is one of the effective methods. The reaction mechanism of photo-induced surface modification, the flame retardant mechanism of coating and the finishing method for substrate surfaces were systematically described. Photo-induced flame retardancy treatment for cotton, polyester, polyamide, and polyacrylonitrile fabrics were mainly introduced, and the existing problems of flame retardant modification were analyzed. This review indicates that future developments of flame-retardant surface treatments for textiles need be concentrated on expanding photo-inducing light sources, especially natural light with low energy and bio-safety. The photo-controlled polymerization technology is expected to become an important technical method for facilitating the design and controlled growth of flame retardant coatings on fabric surfaces,so as to promote the wider application of the photo-induced surface treatment technology for functional flame-retardant fabrics.

Research progress in machine vision algorithm for human contour detection

FENG Wenqian, LI Xinrong, YANG Shuai

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(03):  190-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200307007

Abstract ( 429 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1434KB) ( 142 )   Save

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In order to better apply the contour vision detection method to non-contact two-dimensional body circumference measurement, the contour vision detection methods in recent years are reviewed, including edge operators based detection, mathematical morphology based detection, and level set detection algorithm of active contour model. Through the comparison of experimental renderings, the edge definition, anti-noise ability and target edge positioning ability of the contour visual detection method are re-evaluated. In particular, the research progress of Canny edge operator in optimization and improvement is discussed. The relevant researches provide a theoretical reference for carrying out the visual detection of human contours under complicated background and wearing conditions. Finally, the challenges and opportunities of human body contour machine vision detection are described, and it is pointed out that human contour vision detection has a good development prospect in non-contact two-dimensional body circumference measurement.