Table of Content

15 April 2021, Volume 42 Issue 04

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Invited Column: Bio-based Polyester and Polyamide Fiber

Thermal degradation kinetics and pyrolysis products of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber

YANG Tingting, GAO Yuanbo, ZHENG Yi, WANG Xueli, HE Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200908307

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Bio-based polyamide 56 (PA56) fiber was prepared by bio-based 1,5-pentanediamine and petroleum-based 1,6-adipic acid. In order to explore the thermal stability of the new type of bio-based material, the thermal degradation process of the bio-based PA56 fiber were measured under nitrogen at different heating rates, and the thermal degradation kinetic parameters were calculated. In addition, the main pyrolysis gas phase products of bio-based PA56 fiber in the thermal degradation process were analyzed. The results show that the thermal weight loss curve and kinetic parameters of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber are dependent on the heating rates. The activation energy of bio-based PA56 fiber obtained by Kissinger method, Flynn-Wall-Ozawa method and Coasts-Redfern method are 235.00, 217.23 and 232.18 kJ/mol, respectively, suggesting that the thermal degradation mechanism is F1 type. The main pyrolysis gas phase products are CO₂, cyclopentanone and 1,5-pentanediamine in the thermal degradation process.

One-step foam finishing of flame retardancy and three-proof finishing for bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate fabrics

LI Yonghe, QU Lingxi, XU Bi, CAI Zaisheng, GE Fengyan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  8-15.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200806808

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In order to improve the functionality of bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fabrics and meet the needs of energy saving and emission reduction for ecological dyeing and finishing, foam finishing technology are used to treat bio-based PTT fabrics for flame-retardancy and three-proof one-step finishing. Using the responsive surface experimental design and optimization method, the effects of the concentration of the flame retardant and the three-proof finishing agent, liquid carrying rate and the baking temperature on the finishing effect were analyzed. The optimal finishing process was as follows: the concentration of flame retardant and three-proof finishing agent are 390 and 43 g/L respectively, the liquid carrying rate is 42%, and baking is performed at 141 ℃ for 1 min. The research results show that the PTT fabrics finished under the optimal technological conditions have excellent flame retardant properties and good three-proof effects. The flame retardant grade reaches the national B1 standard, and the contact angles of the water phase and the oil phase reach 145.6° and 129.2°, respectively. In addition, after 20 washings and 50 rubs, the fabric still maintains good flame retardant and three-proof effects. The experimentally researched foam multifunctional finishing method provides an effective way to improve the green and clean production of bio-based fiber materials.

Research progress on manufacturing technique of bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers

WANG Shaobo, XIAO Yang, HUANG Xin, LI Zengbei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  16-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201000610

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The manufacturing techniques for bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber involves many disciplines, including microbial fermentation, fermentation product purification, polyester polymerization and spinning processing. In order to provide a relatively comprehensive and clear development in this area, the progress of the technology related to the preparation of bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber was systematically reviewed and analyzed based on the sequence of production process from raw materials to products, including the preparation of bio-based 1,3-propanediol, the synthesis of bio-based polytrimethylene terephthalate and its spinning processing. The future development trends of this technology were also proposed, including low-cost purification and polymerization by using low-purity bio-based raw materials, differentiated development of high-quality fibers, preparation technology of bio-based terephthalic acid, and the establishment of product environmental footprint evaluation system.

Research progress on applications of bio-based polyamide 56 fibers in textile fields

SUN Chaoxu, LIU Xiucai

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  26-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200904907

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China is highly dependent on imported petroleum, and hexanediamine, the main raw material for polyamide 66, is monopolized by overseas companies. In line with the strategic goal of achieving carbon neutralization in China, this paper describes the characteristics of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber in detail, and reviews the research progress in its preparation technology and application fields. Bio-based polyamide 56 fiber has good mechanical properties, moisture absorption, softness, wear resistance, dyeing, heat resistance, chemical resistance and flame retardancy, which is suitable for clothing, home textiles, industrial textiles and other textiles fields. However, the large-scale promotion of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber still faces problems such as the supply and cost control of biological raw materials, the reduction of energy consumption in production and the comprehensive utilization of by-products. In the future, it is necessary to continue to increase research and development investment in fermentation and purification of bio-based monomer, polymerization, spinning and application in order to continuously reduce production costs, so as to promote the large-scale application of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber in the textile field.

Fiber Materials

Preparation and properties of electrospun collagen/polyethylene oxide nanofiber membranes

ZHAO Xinzhe, WANG Shaoxia, GAO Jing, WANG Lu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  33-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200601109

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In order to maintain and improve the structural stability of the collagen/polyethylene oxide nanofiber membranes under liquous conditions, the improved collagen/polyethylene oxide nanofiber membranes were prepared through electrospinning and by modifying the polymer mix with 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide/N-hydroxysuccinimide. The degree of swelling ratio, mechanical performance in dry and wet states, hemolytic performance and blood clotting property of the nanofiber membranes were measured and analyzed. The results show that the nanofibers is able to maintain its morphology after being soaked in phosphate buffered saline for 7 d with the swelling of fiber reduced (lower than 180%) and mechanical performance improved. In addition, the hemolysis percentage of crosslinked nanofiber membranes were considerably lower than 2%, indicating no damage to the red blood cells. More importantly, the blood clotting index of all crosslinked nanofiber membranes were all lower than 20% when compared to 48% with a non-crosslinked sample, indicating superior clotting property.

Properties of polyether-ester/polybutylene terephthalate composite fibers prepared by side by side bicomponent melt spinning

YU Jinchao, JI Hong, CHEN Kang, GAN Yu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  42-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200606806

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In order to fabricate the composite fibers with excellent elastic and soft touch, the polyether-ester (TPEE) and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) were used to fabricate the side by side bicomponent fibers. The effect of the rheological behavior and composition ratio of the TPEE and PBT component on the spinnability was studied. Meanwhile, the mechanism of crimp formation within the composite fibers was analyzed. The results show that the addition of TPEE can reduce the elastic modulus of the composite fiber, and which is contribute to the flexibility of the composite fibers, but it is unfavorable for the improvement to the breaking strength of the fibers. When the volume ratio of TPEE and PBT component is 5∶5, the breaking strength and elastic modulus of the composite fibers is 1.4 and 13 cN/dtex, respectively, and the curl ratio is as high as 80%. The crimp mechanism of TPEE/PBT composite fibers can be explained that the thermal shrinkage of TPEE component is much lager than that of PBT component, so that the shrinkage of TPEE component is easily hindered by the PBT component during the fiber forming process and the crimp forms.

Preparation and performance of super absorbent modified cotton fiber membrane

XIE Wanting, LIU Qihai, JIA Zhenyu, ZHU Xiaohua, WANG Ronghui

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  48-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200706307

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In order to prepare super absorbent fiber membranes with higher water absorption and stability, the cotton fibers alkalized by NaOH were modified by the chloroacetic acid to enhance the water absorbence, and then the water-absorbent fibers were dispersed in water to prepare a super absorbent fiber membrane material. The surface structure, chemical structure, crystalline structure, thermal stability, the degree of carboxymethyl substitution, water absorption and mechanical properties of the fiber membrane material were eveluated and analyzed. The results show that alkali treatment to cotton fiber can promote the substitution reaction between chloroacetic acid and cotton fiber, and the amount of chloroacetic acid directly affects the degree of carboxymethyl substitution of cotton fiber, which has an important impact on the improvement in water absorption performance of the membrane. However, too high a dosage will significantly reduce the tensile strength of the fiber membrane. When the degree of carboxymethyl substitution is about 0.264, the shape of the absorbent fiber membrane material remains relatively complete after absorbing water, and has generally good mechanical properties, and its water absorption rate can reach 163.3 times, with the water retention rate reaching more than 73.7 times.

Polyvinyl alcohol as reinforcement in damping composites consisting of chlorinated polyethylene and hindered phenol

JIANG Sheng, JI Limei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  55-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200800207

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A series of damping composites consisting of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) acted as reinforcement and the mixture of chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) and 4,4'-methylene-bis-(2,6-dis-tert-butylph-enol) (AO 4426) acting as the matrix were prepared in order to broaden the application field of PVA. The properties and microstructure of the composites were measured and characterized by means of dynamic thermomechanical analyzer, differential thermal analyzer, Fourier infrared spectrometer, scanning electron microscope and mechanical test equipment. The results show that the composites still maintains characteristics of two damping peaks of CPE-AO 4426 composite after adding PVA,and the storage modulus and area under loss modulus curve at the damping temperature range of composites increased with the increase of PVA mass fraction, indicating that the damping performance of composites obtained greater improvement. The hydrogen bonds were formed between hydroxyl group of PVA and hydroxyl group of AO 4426. The fracture stress and the strain of the composite both demonstrate an increase and then a decrease with increase of PVA.

Preparation and pressure sensitivity of conductive polyaniline/polyurethane foam

ZHOU Xinru, ZHOU Xiaoya, MA Yongjian, HU Chengye, ZHAO Xiaoman, HONG Jianhan, HAN Xiao

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  62-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200803907

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In order to prepare pressure-sensitive materials with good resilience and sensing properties, a conductive polyaniline/polyurethane foam was prepared by in-situ polymerization using high elastic porous polyurethane foam as substrate. The structure and properties of conductive polyaniline/polyurethane foam were studied. The pressure sensitivity of the conductive polyaniline/polyurethane foam under different compressive strains were analyzed and used for monitoring human motion. The results show that polyaniline is attached to the surface and internal gap of the polyurethane foam, demonstrating good electrical conductivity, and the resistivity decreased to 1.214×10³ Ω·cm. Compared with the polyurethane foam before treatment, the elastic modulus and maximum load of the conductive polyaniline/polyurethane foam are reduced. The pressure sensor prepared from the conductive polyaniline/polyurethane foam has good sensing performance. It exhibits good linearity, sensitivity and repeatability at 30% and 50% compression rate, but the sensing performance at 80% compression rate decreases. Jogging monitoring shows that the pressure sensor is able to monitor human movement.

Textile Engineering

Backing fabric selection and leak-proof performance of anastomotic reinforcement repair component

JIANG Junying, GAO Jing, ZHANG Jian

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  69-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200301706

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In surgical operation, the fragile tissue is often torn by the staple during stapler anastomosis, which results in anastomotic fistula, anastomotic bleeding, air leakage and liquid leakage. For this reason, an anastomotic reinforcement repair component was designed so that the reinforcing sheet covers the anastomosis to provide sufficient strength for the tissue to be repaired, thereby preventing the occurrence of complications. The composite design of anastomotic reinforcement repair component was carried out, and the performances of the backing fabric and the repair component were evaluated respectively. The leakage prevention performance of the anastomotic reinforcement repair component was simulated and evaluated through in vitro lung leak experiment. The results show that the polyamide/spandex (80/20) plain weft knitted fabric is selected as the backing of the anastomotic reinforcement repair component fabric. The anastomotic reinforcement repair component is found to prevent the lung anastomotic leakage effectively, which provide safe and effective measures to prevent postoperative anastomotic complications.

Influence of ply number of cotton yarns on fabrics performance

ZUO Yajun, CAI Yun, WANG Lei, GAO Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  74-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200603906

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In order to study the effect of the ply number of cotton yarns on the mechanical properties and shape retention of woven fabrics, single, double, triple and quadruple plied yarns with the same fineness were used for making fabrics with appropriate warp and weft densities, using the plain, left twill and satin weaves. The tensile properties, tear strength, tensile elasticity, wrinkle recovery, drapeability and bendability of the fabrics were tested and analyzed. The results show that the fabric with 3-ply yarn has a higher breaking strength and tear strength, the fabric with 4-ply yarn has a higher elongation at break, and the fabric with 2-ply yarn has a greater tensile elastic recovery rate. For the plain weave fabrics, the fabric made from the 2-ply yarn demonstrated better wrinkle recovery than that from single-ply yarn. The wrinkle recovery of the twill and satin fabrics deteriorates as the yarn ply number increases. The plain woven fabric made from 2-ply yarns have good drape, but not as good as the twill and satin fabrics, and fabric using single-ply yarn has better bending properties than other fabrics.

Modeling and loop length reverse design for reducing diameter tubular weft knitted fabrics

HU Xudong, SONG Yanfeng, RU Xin, PENG Laihu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  80-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200705605

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In order to address the big difference between the process design goal and the formed fabric, a design method of loop length based on the target fabric was proposed. According to the characteristics of circular weft knitting machine and weft knitted fabrics, the fabrics were divided into units in the circumferential and axial directions, an improved trapezoidal loop model based on Peirce model was proposed, and the diameter reducing tubular weft knitted fabrics were modelled. On this basis, the relationship between the length of each loop and the parameters of the target fabric was studied, and the design of the fabric loop length carried out based on the target fabric. The experimental results show that the theoretical and actual results are basically the same for the change of loop length in the reducing diameter tubular weft knitted fabrics. According to the proposed modeling method based on trapezoidal loop model, it is possible to get loop length from parameters of reducing diameter tubular weft knitted fabrics, and this research exercise demonstrated loop length reverse design process.

Meso-structure simulation of hexagonal braiding preforms

YANG Xin, SHAO Huiqi, JIANG Jinhua, CHEN Nanliang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  85-92.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200809508

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In order to study the complex structure of second generation of hexagonal braiding fabrics and predict its performance, an algorithm for simulating meso-structure was created for simulation using MatLab, which led to the establishment of models reflecting clearly the meso-structure. On the basis of the motion pattern of the second generation machine's horn gear, motion path of carriers was deduced which was used for coding. The trajectory of the yarn carrier were optimized through the use of B-spline, and Solidtube functions were used to carry out the simulation, leading to the visualization of the micro-structure. The algorithm in this text was designed on the basis of the most fundamental relation between horn gears and switch, thus it is universal to simulate hexagonal braiding structure, and the structure created by the algorithm to simulate also provided a better tool for unit cell division in finite element method. The braiding experiments of different hexagonal preforms were carried out. The results show that appearance of the simulated braiding structure resembles the experimental products, which verifies the accuracy of the algorithm.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Preparation and properties of succinic anhydride acylated gelatin sizing agent for wool yarn sizing

YANG Wenjing, WU Hailiang, MA Jianhua, YAO Yijun, SHEN Yanqin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  93-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200400208

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To address the problems of gelatin gelling at room temperature and poor toughness of size film when gelatin is used to sizing wool yarns, the modified gelatin protein (Gel-C₄H₄O₃) for sizing at room temperature was prepared by acylation of gelatin with succinic anhydride (C₄H₄O₃). The structure and glass transition temperature of Gel-C₄H₄O₃ sizing agent were tested and characterized by infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscope and differential scanning calorimeter. The relationship between the acylation degree and the size liquid and membrane properties of Gel-C₄H₄O₃ was systematically studied. The results show that C₄H₄O₃ can react with the amino groups on the gelatin molecular chain. Compared with the existing acrylic, acrylamide or acrylate monomers-grafted gelatin, Gel-C₄H₄O₃ exhibited no gel at room temperature. When the acylation degree is 0.96, Gel-C₄H₄O₃ size liquid showed excellent adhesion to wool yarn and the fracture strength and toughness of Gel-C₄H₄O₃ size membrane are significantly increased. It provides an excellent sizing agent preparation method for wool yarn sizing at room temperature.

Optimization and mechanism of hydrogen peroxide/ammonium persulfate bleaching for yak wool

PAN Jiajun, XIA Zhaopeng, ZHANG Haibao, LU Yang, ZHAO Jilin, WANG Xuenong, WANG Liang, LIU Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  101-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200807106

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A novel decolorization process for yak wool with hydrogen peroxide/ammonium persulfate system was proposed to reduce the long decolorization time and shorten the commercial treatment process line. In order to improve fiber whiteness and minimize fiber damage, the effect of the decolorization time, ammonium persulfate dosage and pH value on yak wool in this process were discussed and compared with the commercial decolored yak wool via single-factor tests. The results show that with the decolorization time being 180 min at room temperature, the dosage of ammonium persulfate 400 g/L and pH value 9, and the decolorizing time 1/8 of that of commercial process, the yak wool bleached using this scheme has almost the same quality as that bleached using the commercial process. The bleaching mechanism is analyzed and found that the sulfate radical and the hydroxyl radical in this process played the main and secondary roles, receptively. This bleaching process is easier, providing a new solution for the high value utilization of yak wool.

Preparation of Ag₆Si₂O₇/TiO₂ photocatalyst and its photocatalytic degradation of methylene blue

JIANG Wenwen, MO Huilin, FAN Tingyue, ZHAO Ziyao, REN Yu, WANG Chunxia, ZHANG Wei, ZANG Chuanfeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  107-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200701307

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In order to prepare visible light catalyst with stable performance, a novel highly efficient Ag₆Si₂O₇/TiO₂ photocatalyst was prepared by an in-situ deposition method.The surface morphology, crystalline structure, chemical elemental composition and fluorescence spectrum of the photocatalyst were analyzed. The photocatalytic activity of the composite catalyst with different concentration of TiO₂ were tested by degrading methylene blue (MB) under simulated visible light at room temperature. The results show that Ag₆Si₂O₇ are coated on TiO₂ uniformly, Ag₆Si₂O₇ and TiO₂ are tightly bonded in the form of core-shell structure, and Ag⁺, Si⁴⁺and Ti⁴⁺ exist in composite catalyst. The results of photocatalytic degradation of MB show that the Ag₆Si₂O₇/TiO₂ photocatalyst exhibits higher photocatalytic activity under visible light than Ag₆Si₂O₇ and TiO₂ used separately. When the mass fraction of TiO₂ is 20%, the photocatalyst possesses the highest photocatalytic activity. The degradation efficiency for MB is up to 98.6% after irradiating in simulated solar for 20 min. The novel high-efficiency Ag₆Si₂O₇/TiO₂ photocatalyst has a broad application prospect in treatment of printing and dyeing wastewater.

Determination of luteolin content in carex meyeriana extract and its antibacterial properties

WANG Chunhong, YANG Lu, HU Min, WANG Xiaoyun, WANG Lijian

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  114-120.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200703707

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In order to develop the application of carex meyeriana, and explore its antibacterial performance, the carex meyeriana extract was extracted by alcohol water mixture, and the basic performance of the extract with different alcohol water ratios were tested. The content of luteolin, an antibacterial substance, was tested by ultraviolet (UV) spectrophotometer and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method, and the results of the two tests are compared. Its antibacterial rate was tested by in vitro antibacterial method. The results show that with the increase of the proportion of water in the extraction solvent, the conductivity of the extraction solution gradually increases and the pH value gradually decreases exhibiting acidity. The change trends of luteolin content detected by using UV spectrophotometer and HPLC method are the same. The content of luteolin decreases with the increase of the proportion of water in the extraction solvent, and the antibacterial rates of Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus in the four samples with different alcohol water ratios were all higher than 70%, which indicates that the extract has good antibacterial properties.

Preparation and electrochemical properties of carbon fiber fabric sensors co-modified by cobalt phthalocyanine and carbon nanotubes

ZHANG Runke, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  121-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200704206

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In order to explore the application of cobalt phthalocyanine (CoPc)/carbon nanotube (CNT) flexible glucose sensors for glucose detection, a flexible carbon fiber fabric (CFT) glucose sensor based on CoPc and CNT modification were prepared. The Ag/AgCl reference electrode and platinum counter electrode of electrochemical workstation were used to form the three-electrode glucose sensor. The modified electrode was characterized by scanning electron microscope, and the electrochemical properties of the glucose sensor was studied by cyclic voltammetry, electrochemical impedance spectroscopy and time-current curve. The results show that the modified electrode has good conductivity and fast electron transfer capability, and its linear range for glucose detection is found to be 4×10^-3-2.6 mmol/L, the detection limit can be as low as 1.4 μmol/L (signal-noise ratio is 3), and the sensitivity is as high as 231 μA·L/mmol. In addition, the modified electrode has good repeatability in detecting glucose, and the responsive current could still reach 94.6% of the initial value after ten cyclic measurements. It show strong anti-interference performance against fructose, sucrose, lactose, galactose, ascorbic acid, dopamine, uric acid and other substances.

Preparation of self-healing double-layer microcapsules and its application for basalt fabrics

LIU Shuqiang, JING Yifan, YANG Yaru, WU Gaihong, YU Juanjuan, WANG Kaiwen, LI Huimin, LI Fu, ZHANG Man

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  127-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200401905

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In order to improve the bending resistance of basalt fabric, a monolayer microcapsules were prepared by in-situ polymerization.The wall of the monolayer microcapsule was melamine urea formaldehyde copolymer (MUF), and the core was epoxy resin. Then the curing agent diaminodiphenyl sulfone was adsorbed on the surface of the monolayer microcapsules, and then coated with MUF to make double microcapsules.Finally, the double microcapsules were coated on the surface of basalt fabric. The micromorphology and chemical structure of the microcapsules were tested, and the self-healing properties of the microcapsule self-healing basalt fabric were analyzed.The results show that the prepared microcapsules has a compact structure and a smooth surface. When the basalt fiber was damaged, the microcapsules releases the repair agent and curing agent to generate a network of macromolecules for repairing the cracks.After 7 d repair, the maximum breaking strength and the wrinkle recovery performance of the basalt fabric is basically restored, with the elongation and the flexural performance effectively improved.

Construction of bio-based three-component self-assembled coating for flame retardancy of ramie fabrics

WANG Huaqing, YAN Hongqiang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  132-138.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200203107

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In order to solve the flammability of ramie fibers and their reinforced composites, sodium alginate (SA) and poly (diphenolic acid-phenyl phosphate) ((poly(DPA-PDCP)) from biomass were used as the polyanion electrolyte and polyethyleneimine (PEI) as the polycation electrolyte, three-component (SA/PEI/poly(DPA-PDCP)/PEI)_n flame retardant coating was constructed on the surface of ramie fabrics by layer-by-layer assembly technique. The morphology, thermal stability and flame retardancy of the coating and hence the coated fabrics were characterized using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analyzer, microscale combustion calorimetry, vertical combustion tester. The experimental results show that a multi-layered, thick and dense (SA/PEI/poly(DPA-PDCP)/PEI)_n flame retardant coating is successfully constructed on the surface of ramie fabrics. This flame retardant coating reduces significantly the thermal decomposition rate of ramie fabrics, forming a thick and dense intumescent flame retardant carbon layer on its surface, which insulates effectively the heat and oxygen, improves its thermal stability and carbon forming ability, and gives the ramie fabrics excellent flame retardancy. This research demonstrates a solution to the problem of poor flame retardancy of ramie reinforced composites.

Apparel Engineering

Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body

CUI Wen, LI Xiaohui

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  139-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700305

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In order to solve the problems of tedious acquisition and large errors of dart in the pattern design of individualized women's garment, a mathematical modeling method based on feature extraction of female body was proposed. Through the analysis of the influencing factors of the shape of chest, the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust was extracted as feature parameters to construct the mathematical model for the front dart. The sample try-on experiment was carried out on the randomly selected test subjects, and paired sample T test with the dart obtained by mathematical method was conducted. The results show that there is a good agreement between the results obtained by mathematical analysis and the actual results. The angle of the front dart based on the body feature can be expressed as a function of the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust, and the design method of dart is accurate under the premise of reflecting the body feature efficiently and meet the needs of the individualized garment pattern design.

Interactive design of cheongsam personalized customization and display system

SONG Ying

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  144-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200706605

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In order to solve the problems in complicated operation process, high cost and single type of custom-made clothing, and so on in traditional customization clothing systems, MatLab was used as the development platform to design and develop the personalized customization and virtual display system with cheongsam as example. The style features and elements of cheongsam was extracted, and the system database parameter information was determined. Depending on the functional requirements of the system, 5 functional areas were defined, and interactive computation by database information and genetic algorithm were carried out, and the interface display of parameter area, style evaluation area and virtual display area were facilitated, which assists consumers to complete the cheongsam parameter choice, the style appraisal and the virtual fitting. Practical application shows that compared with the traditional customization process, the system has significant improvement in customization efficiency and customer satisfaction, verifying the feasibility and efficiency of the interactive system.

Cognitive evaluation of men's suit style based on image scales

LI Qianwen, WANG Jianping, YANG Yalan, ZHANG Bingjie, LI Zhilin, WANG Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804906

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In view of the lengthy descriptive words used for various types of clothing, this paper took the classic category of clothing-men's suit as an example to carry out research in order to better grasp the emotional and psychological needs of consumers for clothing. First, the image scale method was used to design the perceptual cognition experiment of the men's suit style, and the correlation analysis, factor analysis and other methods were used to reduce the multi-dimensional image to a two-dimensional space. Then, the regression analysis method was used to establish the factor analysis model of men's suit style, and the image scale distribution map of men's suit was obtained. Finally, case verification shows that the constructed model can effectively evaluate the style of men's suits. The results show that the men's suit style factors can be summarized as temperament factor and trend factor, explaining 89.741% of the style characteristics of men's suit styling distribution. Through the image scale diagram, the corresponding quadrant of each men's suit styling can be obtained, which intuitively reflects the relationship between overall styling characteristics and style imagery for men's suits. This research provides a reference for the modeling style of men's suits.

Selection of three-dimensional body scanner based on analytic hierarchy process

ZHAO Qian, DENG Yongmei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  155-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702207

Abstract ( 361 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1316KB) ( 86 )   Save

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In order to solve the problem of blindness and compromise in the selection of three-dimensional (3-D)body scanners in the field of clothing engineering, a structural selection procedure based on analytic hierarchy process is adopted. By constructing a correlation model and using a 9-level judgment scale, the weight of six 3-D body scanners and their six typical indicators to be selected in a specific environment is evaluated through grading, using the consistency index to verify the effectiveness. A matrix is constructed and the vector weight value is used to rank the scanners' ability to meet the target requirements, and then the scanners with the target requirements are selected. A structural model is set up to verify the structured model. The results show that Kinect has the highest weight proportion, which is 0.236 6, representing the best choice among all the consideration. The indicators of the top three scanners Kinect, Virtus Smart, [TC]² are compared and analyzed, which will used for analysing the scanning accuracy for future research

Machinery & Accessories

Control technology for spandex yarn delivery in weft knitting

PENG Laihu, LUO Chang, NIU Chong, LÜ Yongfa, HU Xudong, DAI Ning

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  162-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200705308

Abstract ( 333 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2698KB) ( 204 )   Save

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The amount of spandex yarn delivery is difficult to adjust and control in weft knitting process because of its low modulus, high elasticity and high recovery rate. The fast response positive yarn feeder was used as the drive for yarn delivery. Analog control signal output was achieved using the pulse width modulation (PWM) with adjustable duty cycle. The high performance advanced RISC machines (ARM) processor was used as the control core, and the position and speed double closed loop mode was adopted. The real-time controller of the spandex yarn was designed to achieve the dynamic adjustment and constant tension delivery. The process requirements of spandex delivery were studied, and hardware design and software development of the yarn feeding controller were addressed. The synchronization scheme between the yarn dilivery controller and the whole machine control system was made. The experimental results show that the weft knitted fabrics produced with the new control scheme is even and tidy in circle, without dark stripes and with good elasticity, which verifies the feasibility of the spandex delivery control scheme.

Research on production scheduling method for weft knitting workshops

ZHOU Yaqin, WANG Pan, ZHANG Peng, ZHANG Jie

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  170-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200500907

Abstract ( 317 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1654KB) ( 188 )   Save

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A weft knitting workshop is order-oriented with a wide range of product types and complex processes for the production, a comprehensive production scheduling model for weft knitting workshop was constructed to address the problems. The scheduling method of "order split-equipment selection-task sequencing" was adopted for this study. Order splitting rules was firstly made to split the orders of important customers with urgent delivery dates. Based on product process similarity, heuristic rules was established to select product processing equipment. Genetic algorithm combined with variable neighborhood search strategy was designed to optimize the sorting of equipment processing tasks. Through the proposed scheduling method, the abundance of processing time during the product delivery period is guaranteed, the time for equipment modification is reduced, and the goal of minimizing product completion time and total delay time is achieved. Simulation analysis of the algorithm is carried out in a weft-knitting enterprise to verify the effectiveness of the rules and algorithms proposed in this paper. By comparing the results of different scale cases with that from using other algorithms, the superiority of the improved genetic algorithm is verified.

Comprehensive Review

Research review of fiber effect on properties of cement-based composite

LU Zhenqian, YANG Yaru, XUN Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  177-183.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200303507

Abstract ( 680 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (1657KB) ( 149 )   Save

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In order to broaden the application of fiber materials in cement-based composites and to promote the development of ultra high toughness cement-based composite, the research progress on the effect of fiber properties on cement-based composite properties in China and abroad was reviewed. Firstly, the types of fiber reinforced concrete and the mechanism of strengthening and toughening were introduced. It is noted that fiber bridging can prevent the crack generation and expansion, and significantly improve the tensile strength and ductility of concrete. Secondly, the performance characteristics of organic fiber and inorganic fiber used in concrete field were analyzed. Then, the factors affecting the performance of fiber-reinforced concrete were summarized, and the influences of hybrid fibers, fiber morphology, volume fraction, fiber arrangement direction and fiber bonding property on the performance of composite materials were analyzed and summarized. Finally, the problems needing to be solved in the research of fiber reinforced concrete were highlighted and the development trend of fiber reinforced concrete in the future was forecasted.

Progress in garment ease design and its modeling methods

ZHANG Yijie, LI Tao, LÜ Yexin, DU Lei, ZOU Fengyuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  184-190.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200405907

Abstract ( 468 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1888KB) ( 177 )   Save

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In order to reveal the relationship between garment ease allowance and virtual try-on even garment pattern design, the influencing factors of ease allowance, research methods and representation were reviewed and analyzed. The characteristics of ease allowance representation methods were summarized, and the latest research progress in ease representation models were scrutinized in particular. The effect of garment ease in virtual try-on and pattern design were further analyzed, respectively. It shows that the effective garment ease design should consider the factors of human body's dress form, clothing fit and comfort. The direct and indirect representation methods reflect the relationship between clothing and human body from different perspectives. The combination of ease allowance with garment virtual try-on and pattern design is effective to promote the authenticity of virtual try-on and facilitate intelligent design of clothing. The review indicates that three-dimensional spatial representation, continuous dynamic distribution and the construction of three-dimensional prediction models of ease allowance are regarded as the main research directions in garment ease in the future.

Research progress of motion trajectory planning of sewing robot based on contour extraction

WU Liubo, LI Xinrong, DU Jinli

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(04):  191-200.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200405010

Abstract ( 471 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1842KB) ( 160 )   Save

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In order to effectively solve the shortage of workers and low production efficiency in the clothing industry, to improve the garment production automation, and to pursue unmanned production technology, this paper reviews the recent research progress in two core technologies (machine vision contour extraction algorithm and industrial robot motion trajectory optimization) based on the research of industrial cooperative sewing robot in recent years. The review includes the algorithms in machine vision contour extraction, the method of robot motion trajectory optimization, analyzes the advantages and disadvantages of each contour extraction algorithm and its practical application in the clothing industry, the precision of each robot motion trajectory optimization algorithm and its influence on sewing. It is established that fabric spreading during sewing is one of the focus for future research, and the practical application of industrial cooperative sewing robot based on contour extraction is prospected.