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Table of Content

    15 June 2021, Volume 42 Issue 06
    • Academic Salon Column for New Insight of Textile Science and Technology: Mitigation Strategies and Sustainable Development of Fibrous Microplastics
      Research on constructing high-value recycling systems for municipal textile wastes
      DU Huanzheng, LU Sha, SUN Jian, KANG Qian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210303307
      Abstract ( 37 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (3479KB) ( 278 )   Save
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      Aiming at pressure reduction in raw material scarcity for textile production and consumption, and at alleviating environmental pollution, a high-value recycling system for the municipal textile wastes was proposed based on the problem analysis from four perspectives, i.e. purchasing motivations, recycling costs, technical difficulties and policy issues. Two problems were identified to be the most important, the first one being on how to encourage consumer brands to utilize more recycled materials, the other on how to achieve standardized and large-scale high-value textile wastes re-production. This paper proposes to construct an innovative system, the strategy of which involves the reverse logistics to promote consumption, consumers' purchasing behavior to promote consumer brands, and technology to promote high-value recycling. By providing practical suggestions, this concepts raised in paper would promote further the high-value recycling of textile wastes.

      Research progress of fibrous microplastics and mitigation strategies
      ZHOU Dawang, WU Jing, YANG Jianping, CHEN Ye, JI Peng, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  8-17.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210206310
      Abstract ( 105 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3714KB) ( 345 )   Save
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      Fiber-based microplastics (FMPs) is an important form of microplastics, which has great potential risks to the environment, ecology and human health. It also poses a severe challenge to the sustainable development of chemical fiber industry. It is urgent to develop a deep understanding of it and put forward reduction and control schemes. This paper introduced the basic concept of fiber-based microplastics, expounded its main sources, revealed the influencing factors of fiber microplastics falling off from the fabric surface, summarized its ecological hazards and objects, and proposed the reduction strategies for fiber microplastics pollution at the present stage. A series of measures were provoked to focus on the development of the technology system of recycling and recycling of textiles, the technology system of biodegradable fibers, the technology of pollution resistance and easy-cleaning of textiles, and the enhancement of filtration interception efficiency. In order to reduce the ecological hazards brought by the development of China's chemical fiber and textile industry and to improve the green manufacturing capacity of the chemical fiber industry, the structural and functional design of fiber and textile, household washing and sewage treatment devices are taken as the starting points.

      Research prospect of fibrous microplastics removal in aquatic environment
      CHEN Junliang, WU Jing, WANG Huaping, YANG Jianping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  18-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210205608
      Abstract ( 67 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (3299KB) ( 282 )   Save
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      As an emerging pollutants in aquatic environment, microplastics are attracting the attention from researchers and the general public. The traditional operations in wastewater treatment plants cannot completely remove the microplastics, and the leaked small sized microplastics and fibrous microplastics continuously accumulate in the environment causing harm to living things. In order to reduce the pollution of microplastics in the environment, this review summarized the current microplastics removal technologies in aquatic environment and discussed the mechanism, efficiency and feasibility of these technologies. Furthermore, with respect to the low fibrous microplastics removal efficiency during traditional water treatments as well as the lack of efforts on fibrous microplastics removal among current researches, the development trend of fibrous microplastics removal technologies in the future was prospected from four aspects, which are the reform of traditional water treatments, the importance of fibrous microplastics, exploration of thorough and innocuous removal of fibrous microplastics, and utilization of fibrous microplastics as resources.

      Occurrence and release of fibrous microplastic from dyeing and printing wastewater
      XU Chenye, GU Chunjie, NI Yifan, SHEN Chensi, WANG Huaping, WU Jing, LI Fang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  26-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210205109
      Abstract ( 35 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF (4928KB) ( 164 )   Save
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      Fibrous microplastic (MP)derived from textile printing and dyeing industry are considered to be an important source of MPs in the aquatic environment. In order to understand the pollution emission characteristics and environmental behaviors of fibrous MP from the industry in the Yangtze River Delta, the regulation influent and end effluent samples from 22 textile printing and dyeing enterprises were collected to analyze the abundance, morphology, polymer types and removal efficiencies of fibrous MP. It was found that fibrous MP were occurred in all samples with average abundance of (7 504.8±5 685.9) and (1 272.7±782.2) n/L in influent and effluent samples, respectively. PET was the major polymer type, but no significant association was observed between raw materials and polymer compositions in wastewater. fibrous MP of sizes with 100-300 μm and with transparent color dominated the influent, but small-sized (<100 μm) and colored fibrous MP increased across the treatment systems, which was attributable to the fibers characterization and treatment pathways. Overall, the removal rates of fibrous MP were (78.3±10.2)%, removal efficiencies were positively correlated with sizes. Ecological risks assessment indicated that (3.88±5.75)×109 n/d fibrous MP from effluent were still released due to the huge daily capacity, which posed potential and lasting pressure on the aquatic environment. This findings from this research provide technical understanding on fibrous MP in wastewater effluents channel and their composition, and help optimize advanced treatment processes.

      Research progress on fibrous microplastic released from synthetic textiles during domestic laundry
      HAN Qiyang, WU Xiongying, DING Xuemei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  35-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200809906
      Abstract ( 30 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2480KB) ( 138 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the pollution of microplastics in the environment, global research progress in research on fibrous microplastic released from domestic laundry of synthetic textiles and main sources of microplastics were reviewed. This paper overviewed the physical, chemical and biological effects of microplastics on the ecosystem due to their small particle size and large specific surface areas, which causes eco-toxicity and potential risks to human health. The factors affecting the release of fibrous microplastic during domestic laundry of synthetic textiles were summarized into three aspects, i.e. textile characteristics, washing conditions and detergents. Possible mitigation strategies for microplastics were discussed from the perspectives of source control and interception treatment measures. It is pointed out that the standardization of testing and quantification methods, underlying mechanism of microfibers released from synthetic textiles during domestic laundry, and innovative interception and removal technology are the key research directions in the future.

      Fiber Materials
      Preparation and characterization of high fibrillation Lyocell fiber
      HUANG Wei, CHENG Chunzu, ZHANG Jiayu, ZHANG Chenxi, CHENG Min, XU Jigang, LIU Yunchong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  41-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200902005
      Abstract ( 540 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (4220KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      In order to explore the forming conditions for Lyocell fiber fibrillation, a sufficient theoretical basis was provided for expanding the application of high-fibrillation Lyocell fiber in filter fabrics, covering fabrics and absorbent lined pad. In this paper, sodium hypochlorite (NaClO) solution was used as oxidant and Lyocell fibers with different degrees of fibrillation were prepared by steaming treatment. The influence of NaClO solution concentration and heat treatment time on Lyocell fiber structure and properties were analyzed. The results show that within the scope of this experiment, the fibrillation degree of Lyocell fiber gradually increases and the polymerization degree gradually decreases, as the concentration of NaClO solution increases. When the concentration of NaClO solution (effective Cl- concentration) is 1.5% and the heat treatment time is 180 s, the degree of fiber fibrillation is quite obvious and uniform. The treated fibers achieve a strong moisture absorption capacity, which is 135.8% higher than before. The fiber breaking strength is 3.69 cN/dtex, elongation at break 11.3%, maintaining high mechanical properties required by the intended applications. The process is proved to be less difficult and more efficient, beneficial to the application and industrialization of high-fibrillation Lyocell fibers in the fields of spunlace fabrics and blended manufacturing textile products.

      Preparation and properties of thermal bonded fibrous artificial blood vessels
      GUO Fengyun, GUO Ziyi, GAO Lei, ZHENG Linjing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  46-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200705505
      Abstract ( 450 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (8548KB) ( 113 )   Save
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      In order to prepare small-diameter artificial blood vessels with excellent properties, polycaprolactone/polyurethane (PCL/PU) small-diameter artificial blood vessels were prepared by electrospinning technology combined with soaking and tubing-off method, aiming to achieve non-cytotoxicity, puncture resistance, certain porosity and excellent mechanical properties. By means of scanning electron microscope and universal mechanical tensile testing machine, the morphology and mechanical properties of the materials were characterized, and the porosity, cytotoxicity and puncture resistance of artificial blood vessels were studied. The results showed that by changing the size of the receiving roller and then dissolving the inner polyvinyl pyrrolidone, the small diameter artificial blood vessel with the inner diameters of 2, 3, and 5 mm can be obtained. By adjusting the composition ratio and thermal bonding microstructure, the mechanical strength of artificial blood vessels was improved to be 7 times higher compared to the pure PU, with excellent mechanical properties of transverse and longitudinal stretching. The cell viability and porosity of the artificial blood vessel were 94% and 72%, respectively, and the comparison with the commercial expanded polyterafluoroethylene scaffold showed non fluid leakage after puncture.

      Preparation and properties of resistive flexible humidity sensors using electrospun carbon nanotubes
      DAI Yang, YANG Nannan, XIAO Yuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  51-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200805806
      Abstract ( 560 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (3974KB) ( 246 )   Save
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      In order to prepare a flexible humidity sensor with high sensitivity and more suitable for wearable use scenes, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) was used as a flexible substrate for making interdigital electrodes, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs) were employed as the raw materials to prepare the spinning solution, and MWCNTs/PVP was deposited on a flexible PET substrate by electrospinning technology to make a flexible humidity sensor. The microstructure of the membrane was characterized and analyzed via the use of scanning electron microscopy, and the linearity, response/recovery time, repeatability and stability of the sensor were evaluated using the designed experimental devices. The results show that the output resistance of the flexible humidity sensor has a good linear relationship with the relative humidity, and the correlation coefficient is 0.97. The detectable relative humidity range is 40%-90%, the response time is 20 s, and the recovery time is 5 s. After 40 repeated measurements under 75% relative humidity, the sensor shows good repeatability and stability.

      Preparation and electrochemical properties of liquid GaSn self-repairing anode materials for lithium-ion batteries
      CHEN Yu, XIA Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  57-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200902306
      Abstract ( 427 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (7893KB) ( 189 )   Save
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      In order to solve the inherent volume expansion problem of current lithium-ion battery anode materials, gallium tin (GaSn) alloy that was liquid at room temperature was used as the lithium-ion battery anode material. The liquid GaSn alloy was bound inside the nanofibers and the network structure of nanofibers by electrospinning, and then assembled into lithium-ion batteries. The structure and performance of the batteries were characterized and analyzed. The results show that the liquid GaSn alloy can be evenly dispersed in the carbon nanofibers, and at the same time, the GaSn alloy forms small liquid droplets due to ultrasonic cavitation, which are gradually fixed into large droplets due to fluidity and high surface tension during the cycle. It is conducive to better display of the self-healing properties of the electrode material, and it can effectively repair the cracks generated during the battery cycle. After 100 cycles of charging and discharging test, the capacity retention rate of the battery reaches 94.8%.

      Preparation and properties of humidity-sensitive polyurethane fibers with surface electrostatic implantation and adhesion of grapheme
      LIANG Jiahao, WU Yingzhu, LIU Haidong, HUANG Meilin, CAI Ruiyan, ZHOU Junjian, XIE Quanpei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  63-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200605808
      Abstract ( 305 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2596KB) ( 81 )   Save
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      In order to achieve good performance, eco-friendliness and suitability for weaving humidity sensitive fiber, surface electrostatic implantation method was adopted in this research. Pieces of graphene were accelerated in electrostatic field and implanted rapidly onto the surface of melting polyurethane fiber, adhesion of graphene on the fiber surface was achieved after rapid roll pressing, leading to a wool scale-like fiber surface. The preparation process of the fiber was optimized, and the structure and properties of the fiber were characterized. The optimal process was found to be electrode plate distance 15 cm, preparation voltage 45 kV, preparation temperature 50 ℃, and the implantation time 15 s. Research results show that when the graphene content is 4.1%, the conductivity is 7.0 S/m, the breaking strength and elongation at break are 94.9 MPa and 91.5%, respectively, that the humidity sensitive fiber has good sensitive stability, and good humidity sensitivity in high humidity environment, and that response time and the recovery time in low humidity environment are only 16 s and 26 s respectively. The humidity sensitive fiber could be widely applied in corrosive gas environment and flexible intelligent electronic textiles.

      Preparation of microencapsulated intumescent flame retardant and its use in polylactic acid
      WEN Yufeng, MA Xiaopu, SHENG Fangyuan, ZHU Zhiguo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  71-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200902207
      Abstract ( 318 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (6223KB) ( 246 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardant efficiency, ammonium polyphosphate (marked as A), microcrystal cellulose (marked as C) and melamine cyanourate (marked as M) were selected as the basic components to prepare microencapsulated intumescent flame retardants, noted as M(A&C), via combination of ball-milling and in-situ synthesis techniques. M(A&C) was subsequently incorporated into polylactic acid (PLA) via melt blending method to get the PLA/M(A&C) samples. The structure of MA&C, thermal properties, flame retardancyand residual carbon morphology of flame retardantsamples were characterized with the help of thermogravimetric, Fourier transform infrared, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and scanning electron microscope. The results show that PLA/M(A&C) demonstrates better flame retardant ability than PLA/(M+A+C), with the same loadings of flame retardant (3%, 5% and 10% mass fraction, respectively). The limit oxygen index of the former samples was 27%, 29%, and 31.5%, respectively, which is obviously higher than those of the latter samples (24%, 25%, anf 28.5%, respectively). The overall flame retardancy of PLA/M(A&C)-10 is found excellent, achieving UL-94 V-0 grade. The peak heat release rate, total heat release and char residue show obvious flame retardancy properties, with the values of 313 kW/m2, 54 MJ/m2, and 16.1%, respectively.

      Textile Engineering
      Process design of combed yarn from original and discolored yak hair
      QIN Xiaoxuan, QU Lixin, XIE Chunping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  78-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200606407
      Abstract ( 352 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (989KB) ( 50 )   Save
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      At present, yak hair fiber is difficult for yarn spinning especially for pure combed yarn spinning due to its features, including short length, and large variation in fiber length. There is also lots of coarse wool in the yak cashmere, which makes it impossible for the combed slivers of the yak hair to be produced in the wool worsted equipments. This paper introduced an efficient carding system, including a convenient fiber feeding device, an efficient preparing device, a low damage carding device, and a full dropping-recovery device. By using the system, the crimp and lumpy hair was stretched into straight individual fibers. In creating the yarns, the ring spinning, lattice apron compact spinning, and roller-type compact spinning were used form the original and discolored yak hair combed single yarns and siro spun yarns, and the qualities of spun yarns were measured and analyzed for comparison. The results show that the ring spinning method cannot be used for 16.7 tex spun yarn due to high yarn breakage. Comparing with quality of yarn produced using lattice apron compact spinning, the strength and elongation, and evenness of the original yak hair yarn spun created using roller-type compact spinning are improved, but with higher rate of hairiness. Comparing with the original yak hair yarn, the discolored yak hair yarn demonstrates lower comprehensive properties, especially the yarn strength. Comparing with lattice apron compact spinning, the roller-type compact spinning is more suitable for discolored yak hair yarn spinning due to the flexible and stable parallel condensing process.

      Simulation study on effect of drafting on sliver unevenness
      HE Yaqin, BI Xuerong, QIAN Xixi, RUAN Jun, YU Chongwen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  85-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200901406
      Abstract ( 458 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1379KB) ( 107 )   Save
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      In the research of sliver unevenness after drafting, the change of fiber arrangement is the key to the problem, which is caused by fiber movement. In order to explore the influence of the accelerated point distribution on the unevenness of sliver after drafting, the fiber arrangement in the measured sliver was simulated, referred to as actual sliver. The fiber movement during the drafting process in the ideal sliver and the actual sliver was simulated, respectively. The unevenness of the actual sliver after drafting with different accelerated point distribution were calculated, and experiments were carried out. The results showed that compared with the ideal sliver, the actual sliver can better reflect the influence of the accelerated point distribution on the unevenness of the sliver after drafting, and an increase in the accelerated point variance is found to associate to the increase in the sliver unevenness. The unevenness of the actual cotton sliver after simulated drafting is roughly consistent with the trend of the measured value.

      On-line detection of warp collision and reed embedding based on improved inter-frame difference method
      XIA Xuwen, MENG Shuo, PAN Ruru, GAO Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  91-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105806
      Abstract ( 234 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (6314KB) ( 53 )   Save
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      In order to monitor the warp bumping phenomenon in the warp sizing process, a real-time automatic detection system for warp reed collision of the sizing machine based on machine vision was developed. The complete image of warp yarn passing through the reed was captured through the developed image acquisition system. The initial image was cropped to obtain the detection area, and before the image through Gaussian filtering was smoothed to reduce the level of image details. Then, the inter-frame difference was enlarged, and the Canny edge algorithm and expanded mathematical morphology operation were added to complete the improvement of the inter-frame difference method. Recognition and tracking of the warp yarn collision and reed holding of the sizing machine were achieved by the improved inter-frame difference method. The experimental results show that the developed detection system can accurately identify the warp in the sizing machine and track the reed-holding yarn, fulfilling the real-time detection function, which can guide the actual production.

      Comparison of filtration efficiency standards for COVID-19 protective masks
      PAN Hongjie, YANG Xiaobing, ZHOU Chuan, ZHANG Shouxin, CHANG Suqin, LUO Hongsen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  97-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201001809
      Abstract ( 735 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1003KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      Masks from different countries satisfying different standards entered the Chinese market during the COVID-19 pandemic, which led to the public misunderstanding of the concepts relating to mask filtration efficiency. This paper introduced comprehensively the highly recognized multi-national standards, including GB 2626—2019, GB 19083—2010, US 42 CFR 84 Part K, EN 149:2001+A1:2009, and EN 13274—7:2019, focusing particularly on the filtration efficiency performance requirements and testing methods. This paper compared the performance requirements and markings of the particulate filtration efficiency in these standards, as well as the similarities and differences in the pretreatment, test conditions, and test procedures in the testing methods. Three types of masks were tested against different standard methods. Through standard comparative research and analysis, together with sample test, it will help to clarify the basic concepts in the filtration efficiency performance requirements and test methods of filtering half masks to protect against particles, promote all sectors of China to comprehensively understanding the performance and test method requirements of the main mask standards at home and abroad, and help the enterprises, testing agencies and governments to better control and supervise product quality.

      Fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of fabric gloss based on spectral imaging technology
      ZHANG Jianxin, HUANG Gang, HU Xudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  106-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700708
      Abstract ( 279 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1276KB) ( 54 )   Save
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      In order to explore objective evaluation of fabric gloss performance to guide visual design in textile mills, an objective evaluation method of fabric gloss performance based on spectral imaging technology was proposed. The spectral imaging system was used to collect the multi-band spectral reflectance information of the fabric image, and the spectral information in the visible light band for chromaticity conversion was selected to obtain the chromaticity space L, a, and b values. Based on the direction difference theory, four evaluation characteristics were constructed to describe the properties of different aspects of fabric gloss, a fuzzy comprehensive evaluation model was established to evaluate fabric gloss, and the evaluation results obtained from using multi-weight determination methods were analyzed. Through subjective and objective verifications, the experimental results show that the method has good consistency with the subjective evaluation results and FZ/T 01097—2006 "Fabric Gloss Test Method," indicating that the new method is feasible and can be effectively applied to evaluate fabric gloss performance.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Preparation and strain sensing of dopamine-modified polypyrrole conductive fabric
      WANG Xiaofei, WAN Ailan, SHEN Xinyan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  114-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200908406
      Abstract ( 615 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (5847KB) ( 218 )   Save
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      In order to improve the binding strength of the polypyrrole(PPy) conductive layer to fabric substrate and the stability of sensors, a polypyrrole/polydopamine (PPy/PDA) conductive polyester/polyurethane fabric was prepared by in-situ polymerization with dopamine as binder, followed by an investigation of the conductive and strain sensing properties of such fabric. The morphology and structure were analyzed by scanning electron microscope and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and the sensitivity, repeatability and stability were tested by the self-made KTC Resp Sensor box. The results show that compared with the PPy conductive fabric, the PPy/PDA conductive polyester/polyurethane fabric has a more uniform conductive layer and higher binding strength. The sensing element prepared from this fabric has higher sensitivity and the senser retains good stability after 500 repetitions and can be used for human movement detection and rehabilitation training.

      Cotton knitted fabrics treated with two-dimensional transitional metal carbide Ti3C2Tx and property analysis
      LI Yifei, ZHENG Min, CHANGZHU Ningzi, LI Liyan, CAO Yuanming, ZHAI Wangyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  120-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200805608
      Abstract ( 366 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (7166KB) ( 119 )   Save
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      To study the application of textiles, a two-dimensional nanomaterial Ti3C2Tx was prepared using Ti3AlC2 as the precursor based on the selective etching of LiF/HCl. Transmission electron microscope, scanning electron microscope, X-ray energy spectrum diffraction, ultraviolet-visible absorption spectrum were used to characterize the surface morphology, structure, chemical composition of Ti3C2Tx, which was used to treat cotton knitted fabrics using the pad-dry-cure technique with optimised finishing technic parameters. The results show that under the condition that the concentration of Ti3C2Tx was 8 g/L, the liquid ratio was 100%, the dipping time was 40 min, the baking temperature was 150 ℃, baking time was 3 min and repeated 4 times, the fabric had the best conductivity with 1.25% Ti3C2Tx loading. Ti3C2Tx is uniformly distributed on the surface of the fabric, and the surface resistance is significantly reduced to 600 Ω/□. The fabric after several finishing has excellent UV resistance, and the ultraviolet protection value reaches 500. The finished fabric presents good breathability, and the surface resistance of the finished fabric is lower than 5 kΩ/□ after 5 times of finishing under 20 times of washing.

      Influence of liquid ammonia treatment on properties of polyamide/cotton blended fabrics
      ZHANG Hua, ZHANG Jie, GAO Yan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  128-132.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200607205
      Abstract ( 655 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (917KB) ( 192 )   Save
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      Polyamide/cotton blended fabrics prone to wrinkles and uneven appearance limiting their applications in high-quality clothing. Aiming at such problems, a polyamide/cotton blended fabric was taken as the research object, and the greige was treated with liquid ammonia after pretreatment and before dyeing and finishing. The effect of the liquid ammonia treatment on the tensile strength, tear strength, wrinkle recovery and surface properties were evaluated. Three quantitative indicators, i.e. smoothness, warmth and softness, were used to evaluate handle of the polyamide/cotton blended fabric samples before and after liquid ammonia treatment. The results show that the liquid ammonia finishing can increase both the tensile strength and tear strength of the polyamide/cotton blended fabric. The wrinkle recovery angle of the fabrics treated with liquid ammonia increased from 218° to 252.3°, and the ratio of roughness wavelength-to-amplitude decreased from 50.46 to 44.87, which indicates that the crease resistance and smoothness of the fabrics treated with liquid ammonia were significantly improved. Although liquid ammonia did not significantly improve the softness of the fabric, the thermal conductivity of the treated fabric was lower than that of the untreated fabric to a certain extent, resulting in the improvement of the contact warmth of the fabric.

      Synthesis of nanoscale iron supported on expanded graphite for removal of chromium (Ⅵ) and dyes from water
      TIAN Liqiang, LIANG Min, LONG Kang, CHEN Xiuqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  133-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200805907
      Abstract ( 255 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2672KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      For dyes and Cr (VI) stripped from metallic roller in the printing process, two new adsorbents, nanoscale zero-valent iron (GS-NZVI) and nanoscalezero-valent iron supported on expanded graphite (GS-EG-NZVI) were green-synthesized. The two adsorbents were characterized by field emission electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectrometer, X-ray diffraction, etc. GS-EG-NZVI was investigated on the removal of Cr(VI) and dyes of aqueous solution, and on the corresponding dynamics and stability. Results indicated that nanoscalezero-valent iron was successfully loaded on the surface of EG with good dispersion. For the aqueous solution including 50 mg/L Cibacron Dark Blue and 20 mg/L Cr (Ⅵ), addition of 2.5 g/L GS-EG-NZVI led to the achievements of the removal rates of 90.6% of dyes and 53.6% of Cr (VI) respectively under the conditions of at 50 ℃, pH=2, 35 min reaction time with ultrasound assistance. The two removal processes fitted well with the pseudo second-order dynamic model. GS-EG-NZVI showed higher potential for removing Cr(Ⅵ) in aqueous solution than GS-NZVI due to its high stability after being placed in the air for different time.

      Apparel Engineering
      Structural design of weft-knitted seamless yoga pants based on leg motion characteristics
      WANG Weirong, CONG Honglian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  140-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201006406
      Abstract ( 610 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (2876KB) ( 244 )   Save
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      In order to improve the functionality and comfort of yoga pants, the structure design methods for weft-knitted seamless yoga pants were studied. This paper analyzed the characteristics of the circumference of the human lower limbs and the deformation of the mussle during yoga exercises, and the changes in the skin of the lower limbs were mapped in the form of a grid diagram. Seven types of fabrics with different structures were knitted with spandex and nylon, and the tensile properties and pressure values of the fabrics were measured. The partition structure design of the weft-knitted seamless yoga pants was carried out from the girth size and the longitudinal structure, and application examples were given. The results show that the difference in garment girth size is achieved by adjusting the ratio of the number of knitting needles of different fabrics, and the amount of garment shrinkage can be adjusted by the pressure value of the transverse stretch of the fabric. In the longitudinal design of the garment, the tensile properties of the fabric is proportional to the value of skin deformation. The structural design of seamless yoga pants needs to consider the characteristics of lower limb movement, fabric performance and seamless forming principles. This technology can be applied to other types of sports apparel design, which helps to improve the scientific and production efficiency of apparel structure design.

      Research on clothing collar types based on complex network extraction and support vector machine classification
      XU Zengbo, ZHANG Ling, ZHANG Yanhong, CHEN Guiqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  146-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200905607
      Abstract ( 281 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1825KB) ( 124 )   Save
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      In order to achieve automatic style search in clothing pattern-making, this research took the structural features of clothing collar styles as working object, using clothing round-neck images as an example. The paper described and extracted complex network features by constructing a complex network, and the support vector machine model was used to classify images of 8 types of collars. The experimental results show that the average classification accuracy of the samples as a whole is 98%, and the average classification accuracy of each category is above 96%. Among them, the average classification accuracy rate for the round collar samples is 100%. At the same time, in order to evaluate the anti-noise performance of the feature extraction algorithm, after adding a certain degree of salt and pepper noise and Gaussian noise to the image of the original sample library, the overall classification accuracy of the sample fluctuates around 80%, indicating that the support vector machine classification method is suitable for image recognition with a certain degree of noise. To conclude, the extraction and classification accuracy of clothing collar research based on complex network extraction and support vector machine classification is high, and the classification results are relatively stable.

      Heat transfer modeling and experimental research of ventilation clothing in high-temperature outdoor environment
      ZHAO Jingde, DING Yiran, ZHANG Chunhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  153-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201004407
      Abstract ( 340 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1793KB) ( 190 )   Save
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      In order to improve the thermal comfort of workers in the high-temperature outdoor environment in summer, the heat transfer process between the clothing and the environment in the high-temperature outdoor environment was analyzed. Through the analysis on the heat transfer process among the human body, clothing and the environment, a heat transfer model of ventilated clothing in high-temperature outdoor environment exposed to the sunlight was established, which was validated through a human subjects experiment, where the ventilation clothing is analyzed for changes in underclothing space air parameters and in subjective reflections of the human subjects. The results show that the errors in heat gain and heat loss obtained using the model are only 9.1% compared to the experimental results, and the surface temperature of the body stabilizes in about 10 min. When the cooled air is supplied into the under clothing space, the temperature and humidity of the air in the space under clothing are lower than that not ventilated. The existence of forced convection greatly increases the evaporation rate of sweat on the body surface, and the subjective heat and skin moistness are significantly improved.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Dynamic analyses on nipper pendulum shaft in cotton combers
      LI Jinjian, REN Jiazhi, LIANG Zhuo, JIA Guoxin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  160-165.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102906
      Abstract ( 290 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1076KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      In order to understand driving torque of the nipper pendulum shaft of the cotton spinning comber, the carding force, separate drafting force, inertia force of the nipper mechanism, inertia force of the nipper pendulum shaft were analyzed and their relationships with the driving torque of the nipper pendulum shaft was investigated. Mathematical models for the drag torque and the driving torque in the nipper pendulum shaft were established, and the ADAMS software was used to simulate the variation mechanisms of the drag torque and driving torque of the nipper pendulum shaft during a working cycle. The results show that the driving torque of the nipper pendulum is mainly determined by the torque of inertial force in the nipper mechanism for the nipper pendulum shaft. The peak and valley values of the driving torque curve of the nipper pendulum shaft are increased rapidly with the increase of comber speed, and the influence of the inertial force in the nipper mechanism on the driving torque of the nipper pendulum shaft becomes more significant. When the speed of the comber is increased from 300 to 500 nippers/min, the peak value of the driving torque curve is increased by 211%, and the ratio of the peak inertia torque of the nipper mechanism to the peak driving torque of the nipper pendulum shaft is increased from 63% to 74.1%.

      Design of three-dimensional spacer fabrics based on rapier looms
      HUANG Jinbo, ZHU Chengyan, ZHANG Hongxia, HONG Xinghua, ZHOU Zhifang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  166-170.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201005105
      Abstract ( 435 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1067KB) ( 170 )   Save
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      In order to develop a simple weaving method of three-dimensional spacer fabric using the conventional rapier loom, and to solve the friction and clamping problems between the yarns caused by the high warp density when weaving three-dimensional fabrics, the paper puts forward a modification scheme of double-shed on the existing conventional rapier looms, and designs the heald frame structure and the heald threading process of the loom. The results show that reasonable equipment improvement and process design effectively facilitates the weaving of three-dimensional spacer fabrics, and the heald frame motion design is able to effectively control the structure formation of three-dimensional spacer fabrics. In order to make the three-dimensional spacer fabric have better forming effect in practical production, critical height model of three-dimensional spacer fabric was constructed. Relevant production data were introduced to check the critical height of three-dimensional spacer fabrics, which provides a theoretical basis for process design in practical production.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research advances in thermoplastic polymers for flame retardant and anti-dripping behavior
      SUN Chenying, WANG Wenqing, JIN Gaoling, WANG Rui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  171-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200601909
      Abstract ( 543 )   HTML ( 34 )   PDF (1041KB) ( 249 )   Save
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      Targetting at the droplet phenomenon of flame retardant polymers and fabrics when burning to achieve high-quality flame-retardant thermoplastic polymers and expand the application range of flame retardant fibers and products, this article reviewed the current research advances and latest findings in the flame retardant and anti-dripping behavior of thermoplastic polymers, and described the commonly used current methods for flame retardant and anti-dripping modification. The common methods of flame retardant and anti-dripping modification including copolymerization, blending and construction of flame retardant and droplet resistant coatings on the fabric surface were described. The main mechanisms of flame-retardant and anti-dripping are analyzed, i.e., increasing the viscosity of polymer melt and forming a dense and stable carbon layer. The flame retardant and anti-dripping applications of different thermoplastic polymer systems are summarized. It is pointed out that the design and synthesis of the multi-element compound anti-dripping system, and the optimization of the interaction mode between the anti-dripping system and the matrix material are the main development trends of flame retardant and anti-dripping.

      Research progress on bulletproof properties of shear thickening fluid/high performance fiber composites
      ZHANG Qianyu, QIN Zhigang, YAN Ruosi, JIA Lixia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  180-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200603809
      Abstract ( 673 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (2028KB) ( 289 )   Save
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      In order to promote the research and applications of intelligent impact protection materials, this paper reviewed the progress in shear thickening fluid (STF) impregnated high-performance fibers, summarizing their effective mechanical response and energy absorption mechanism upon high velocity impact. The research progress of STF rheological properties, mechanical properties of STF/fiber composites and their anti-ballistic impact mechanisms were reviewed. The selection of STF raw material, the construction principle of composite material system and the preparation method were analyzed. According to the characteristics of ballistic impact process and the reaction mechanisms of STF/fiber composites under high velocity impact, the factors affecting ballistic impact performance were discussed and perspective solutions proposed. The research direction of flexible and intelligent STF/fiber bullet proof composites with high responsiveness is forecasted, and it was made clear that the characterization and evaluation methods of flexible and intelligent STF/fiber bulletproof composites still need improving. The composites based on the three-dimensional self-reinforcing structures, the interfacial bonding between fiber material and STF, the rheological slip and friction characteristics are the key research points in the future.

      Research progress in conductive inks for inkjet printing and its application for intelligent electronic textiles
      WANG Hang, WANG Bingxin, NING Xin, QU Lijun, TIAN Mingwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  189-197.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200701809
      Abstract ( 567 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (1027KB) ( 270 )   Save
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      In order to further promote the application of printed electronic in the field of textiles and to expand the application fields of intelligent electronic textiles, the circuit printing process and conductive ink composition for inkjet printing were concisely introduced. This paper reviewed in detail the global research advancements on metal-, carbon- and polymer-conductive components used in conductive ink based on the main problems of conductive ink encountered in the current inkjet printing technology. In the perspective of flexible applications of textile-based electronic devices, the research progress in inkjet printing technology in the fields of flexible conductive devices, intelligent sensors and energy collection and conversion were discussed in detail, providing theoretical and practical references for the development of intelligent electronic textiles associated with the inkjet printing technology. Finally, the technical elements, technical development and application prospect of printing electronic technology were summarized and prospected, suggesting that intelligent printing and flexible applications would be the pioneering trends.

      Review on liquid cooling garment and its feasibility study in fire fighting
      WANG Xiaobo, QIAN Xiaoming, WANG Lijing, LIU Yongsheng, BAI He
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(06):  198-207.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200800910
      Abstract ( 420 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1379KB) ( 205 )   Save
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      Fire fighting suit has outstanding thermal protection ability, but the poor thermal and wet conductivity hinders the timely discharge of the excessive heat from the human body. Aimed at the alleviation of human heat accumulation in fire fighting and avoid heat damage, this paper reviewed on the influencing factors and research progress in the wearability of liquid cooling garment, including the cooling pipes, cooling medium, basic clothing, intelligent control of cooling system and regional cooling. On the basis of evaluating the fire fighting environment, the characteristics of human thermal balance was analyzed and summarizing the current fire fighting cooling strategies, combined with the respective characteristics of liquid cooling system and fire fighting suits were summarized. The feasibility of liquid cooling system embeded into fire fighting suit was analyzed, and its development trend discussed. The paper recognized that the liquid cooling system and the fire fighting suits have good compatibility. it was suggested that the improvement of cooling capacity, development of intelligent control, development of special hardware and optimization of cooling loop would be the future development directions.