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Table of Content

    15 July 2021, Volume 42 Issue 07
    • Invited Column: New Flame Retardant Technology for Textile Materials
      Influence of carbon dots on properties of flame retardant poly(ethylene terephthalate)
      GU Weiwen, WANG Wenqing, WEI Lifei, SUN Chenying, HAO Dan, WEI Jianfei, WANG Rui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  1-10.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201001410
      Abstract ( 643 )   HTML ( 51 )   PDF (3985KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      In order to explore the effects of zero-dimensional carbon nanomaterials-carbon dots (CDs) on the thermodynamic, flame-retardant, mechanical and fluorescent properties, a copolymer flame retardant with a good flame-retardant effect on poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) was selected. 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid (CEPPA) and carbon dots were added to the PET matrix by in-situ polymerization, and the effect of carbon dot addition on various properties of FRPET was studied. The effect of different carbon dots on the performance of FRPET was analyzed through limiting oxygen index (LOI), vertical combustion (UL94), cone calorimetry (CONE) and other tests. The results of the study show that the LOI value of FRPET reaches up to 34%, when the carbon dots addition is 1.50% and the vertical combustion is at the V-0 level. Compared to FRPET with only CEPPA addition, the ignition time is extended and the peak heat release rate reduced, the average heat release rate and the total heat release decreased. In addition, the mechanical properties of FRPET after the addition of CDs are also greatly improved and give FRPET fluorescent properties, which is beneficial for broadening the application fields of FRPET.

      Preparation and properties of synergistic flame retardant copolyamide 6 fiber with phosphaphenanthrene group
      LIU Ke, CHEN Shuang, XIAO Ru
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  11-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210200108
      Abstract ( 488 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (2829KB) ( 176 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardancy of polyamide 6 (PA6) fibers,a flame retardant was synthesized by copolymerization with 10-(2,5-dicarboxyl phenoxyl)-9,10-dihydro-9-oxa-10-phosphaphenanthrene-10-oxide (DOPODP) and combination of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) or zinc sulfide (ZnS), the flame retardant PA6 fibers were prepared via melt spinning. The structure, properties, and the flame-retardant mechanism of the co-PA6 and its fibers were also studied. The results show that the DOPODP had been introduced into PA6 molecular chains, the flame retardancy of the copolymer was improved, but the melting temperature and crystallization temperature were reduced. The synergistic flame retardant PA6 achieved a V-0 rating according to the UL94 criterion with an LOI value greater than 30%. The study of the flame-retardant mechanism indicated that the DOPODP in PA6 mainly take effects in gas phase, DOPODP could decompose to phosphorus radicals. In addition, with the introduction of synergistic flame retardants, the char content of flame retardant PA6 was increased. Compared with PA6 fiber, the mechanical properties of flame retardant PA6 fibers were decreased, and the LOI value of the fabrics increased.

      Preparation and property of flame retardant polyester/calcium alginate fiber composites
      XU Kai, TIAN Xing, CAO Ying, HE Yaqi, XIA Yanzhi, QUAN Fengyu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  19-24.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200902906
      Abstract ( 457 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (1714KB) ( 294 )   Save
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      Facing the smoldering phenomenon of calcium alginate, the flame retardant composite was prepared by blending flame retardant polyester (FR-PET) and calcium alginate fiber (Ca-Alg) with a standard fiber dissociator. The flame-retardancy, thermal stability and morphology of the residue after conic calorimetry were characterized. The results show that when the mass ratio of FR-PET to Ca-Alg is 40∶60, the smoldering time of the composite is less than 1 s and the damage length is 12 mm. In the process of combustion, the melted FR-PET covers the surface of Ca-Alg fiber, which not only avoids the melting drop of FR-PET but also isolates the contact between Ca-Alg and air, thus inhibiting the smoldering of Ca-Alg. Furthermore, the composite has lower total heat release and total smoke production compared with FR-PET. In the third stage of mass loss of composites (350-600 ℃), the results of thermogravimetric analysis show that the intermediate products of thermal decomposition of Ca-Alg avoid the rapid decomposition of FR-PET, improves the stability of the composites and promotes the formation of residual carbon.

      Preparation and properties of Lyocell fibers and fabrics modified with new phytic acid based flame retardant
      LIN Shenggen, LIU Xiaohui, SU Xiaowei, HE Ju, REN Yuanlin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  25-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200905206
      Abstract ( 584 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (2433KB) ( 245 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardancy of Lyocell fibers and fabrics, an intumescent flame retardant was prepared by reaction of phytic acid, a natural phosphorus-rich compound, with neopentyl glycol and urea, which was applied to the finishing of Lyocell fibers and fabrics. Using Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, thermogravimetric analyzer and scanning electron microscopy, the structure, thermal stability and surface morphology of the flame retardant Lyocell fibers were studied. The flame retardant properties of the treated Lyocell fabrics were studied through vertical combustion, cone calorimetric and limiting oxygen index tests. The results show that the initial decomposition temperature of Lyocell fibers after flame retardant treatment is decreased by 177.1 ℃, and the carbon residue increases by 21% at 800 ℃. The total heat release, peak heat release rate and average heat release rate are decreased by 76.9%, 84.0%, and 70.6%, respectively. The limit oxygen index (LOI) was increased from 17.0% to 47.6%. After 25 times of washing, the LOI dropped to 28.8%, but still has decent flame retardant performance.

      Flame retardant and antibacterial treatments for cotton-viscose blended fabrics
      ZHANG Jiaojiao, LI Yuyang, LIU Yun, DONG Chaohong, ZHU Ping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  31-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201202708
      Abstract ( 407 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (4241KB) ( 147 )   Save
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      In order to obtain both flame retardant and antibacterial properties for textiles, the composite functional agent for cotton-viscose blended fabrics was synthesized from comb-like silicon-phosphor-nitrogen synergistic flame retardant-antibacterial agent. The treatment process of cotton-viscose blended fabrics was optimized through single factor experiment, and fabric structure and performance were analyzed using infrared spectrometer, vertical combustion instrument, limit oxygen index (LOI) tester, scanning electron microscope, energy dispersive X-ray spectrometer, thermogravimetric analysis, and so on.The results show that the optimal processing parameters are 500 g/L flame retardant antibacterial agent and 150 g/L 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid (PBTCA), soaking at 50 ℃ for 40 min, two dip and two roll, pre-drying at 70 ℃ for 5 min, and curing at 130 ℃ for 150 s. The LOI value of the treated cotton-viscose blended fabrics was above 28%, and the after-flame time and after-glow time were both 0 s. The dense carbon layer with Si, P and N elements enriched on the surface of the fabrics after combustion was 40.16% at 800 ℃. The antibacterial rates of treated cotton-viscose blended fabrics againstEscherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 99.05% and 95.52%, respectively, indicating good flame retardant and antibacterial property.

      Application of hyperbranched phosphoramide in flame retardant finishing of viscose fabrics
      ZHANG Chao, JIANG Zhiming, ZHU Shaotong, ZHANG Chenxi, ZHU Ping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  39-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200900507
      Abstract ( 353 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (2966KB) ( 136 )   Save
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      In order to realize synchronously formaldehyde-free and flame retardant properties of viscose fabrics, a flame-retardant viscose fabric was prepared with polyhydroxy hyperbranched phosphoramide (HPAE) and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) as the flame retardant finishing system in this paper. The surface structure composition, charring performance and burning behavior of the viscose fabric before and after finishing were compared and analyzed, and the effect of the flame retardant system on the tensile breaking strength, wrinkle recovery angle and whiteness of viscose fabric were evaluated. The results show that when the weight gain of the fabric reaches 22.5%, the limiting oxygen index (LOI) value is increased from 21.0% to 28.9%. The fabric can self-extinguish after leaving the fire, and can successfully pass the vertical burning test.The introduction of HPAE greatly improved the carbon-forming ability of the viscose fabric, and the residual char retention rate was 42.9% in the nitrogen atmosphere at 800 ℃.The heat release of the finished fabric in the combustion process was obviously reduced,and the peak heat release rate (pHRR) and the total heat release (THR) decreased by 59.4% and 15.1%, respectively. After 25 standard washings, the LOI value of the fabric dropped from 29.1% to 24.8%.

      Fiber Materials
      Separation and characterization of silk fibroin with different molecular weight
      DING Mengyao, DAI Mengnan, LI Meng, LIU Ping, XU Jingjing, WANG Jiannan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  46-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201006308
      Abstract ( 616 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (2603KB) ( 173 )   Save
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      The sephadex gel chromatography was used for gradient purification and separation to obtain relatively centralized silk fibroin with different molecular weight distributions from regenerated silk fibroin. The silk fibroin with different molecular weights was separated effectively by using the appropriate sephadex gel and controlling the chromatographic flow rate.The viscosity, electronegativity, amino acid composition and molecular conformation of the preliminarily separated four silk fibroins were further analyzed. Results showed that the viscosity and isoelectric point of the silk fibroin solution decreased with the decrease of molecular weight. The increased electronegativity is mainly due to the silk fibroin heavy chain which were cut off into smaller peptide chains richly exists in non-repetitive regions. Each of the four silk fibroins in the study could form β-sheet structure by self-assemble, and the higher the molecular weight, the easier it was to form a stable molecular conformation.

      Preparation and characterization of lignin/polyacrylonitrile-based carbon fibers
      YANG Zhi, LIU Chengkun, WU Hong, MAO Xue
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  54-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200808308
      Abstract ( 524 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2851KB) ( 145 )   Save
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      In order to use lignin as a renewable and degradable raw material in the preparation of carbon fiber, lignin/polyacrylonitrile (PAN) based carbon fiber was prepared by electrospinning, pre-oxidation and carbonization. The effect of lignin addition on the properties of spinning solution and structure and properties of preoxidized fiber and carbon fiber were studied by means of rotary rheometer, conductivity meter, scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and specific surface area tester.The results show that the mass ratio of lignin to PAN can be increased to 90∶10 on the basis of ensuring the solution spinnability and fiber-forming property, which maximizes the high-value utilization of lignin. The pre-oxidized fiber has a heat-resistant and stable trapezoidal structure after adding lignin. The specific surface area of carbon nanofiber increases from 50.49 to 849.89 m2/g, which has important potential application value in battery, supercapacitor and other energy fields.

      Strain sensing performance for thin and aligned carbon nanofiber membrane
      YAN Tao, PAN Zhijuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  62-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200807708
      Abstract ( 312 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (4968KB) ( 82 )   Save
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      Aiming for the monitoring of human body movement and physiological information, a thin and aligned carbon nanofiber membrane (CNFM) was prepared by using the electrospinning method, and a flexible strain sensor was developed. The structures and performances of nanofiber membranes were analyzed, and the influence of thickness and width of CNFM and the alignment of carbon nanofiber (CNF) on sensing performance was discussed. The results exhibit that the aligned degree of polyacrylonitrile/graphene composite nanofibers and the transmittance of CNFM could reach 61.3% and 48%, respectively. When the stretching direction was parallel to the aligned direction of CNF, the strain range of the sensor firstly decreases and then increases with the increase of the alignment of CNF, and gradually increases with the increase of the thickness and width of CNFM. When the stretching direction was perpendicular to the CNF orientation direction, the strain range of the sensor is significantly increased, but sensitivity is decreased. The ultra-thin transparent flexible strain sensor can be attached to the skin surface to detect the motion information caused by human joint movement, and physiological information such as pulse and vocal-cord vibration. It can also be applied in the fields of smart clothing and subtle deformation monitoring.

      Preparation and ultraviolet light resistance of poly(p-phenylene benzoxazole) fiber coated with nano titanium dioxide
      TAN Yanjun, HUO Qian, LIU Shurui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  69-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210202207
      Abstract ( 280 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2236KB) ( 63 )   Save
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      To solve the problem that the strength of poly(p-phenylenebenzoxazole) (PBO) fiber decreases after ultraviolet light irradiation, the surface of PBO fiber was modified by oxygen plasma to improve its interfacial properties.Nano-TiO2 and silicone finishing agent were coated on the surface of modified PBO fiber to prepare TiO2/PBO composites.The structure and properties of the composites were characterized and analyzed afterwards. The results show that when the oxygen plasma treatment power is 200 W and the treatment time is 200 s, the surface of PBO fiber developed dents leading to a 16% increase in friction coefficient between fibers, and the tensile strength retention rate of the fiber is kept at more than 90%.The contact angle decreases to 52.7 degrees, indicating an increase in surface wettability of the modified PBO fiber.When the mass ratio of nano-TiO2 to silane coupling agent is 1∶1, the surface of TiO2/PBO composite shows raised nano-TiO2 particles.After ultraviolet light irradiation for 200 h, the tensile strength of TiO2/PBO composite becomes 30% less than that of PBO fiber, which indicates that the ultraviolet light resistance of PBO fiber coated with nano-TiO2 is improved.

      Textile Engineering
      Study on fiber mixing effect in ring spun, rotor and air-jet-vortex spun color blended yarns
      YANG Ruihua, PAN Bo, GUO Xia, WANG Lijun, LI Jianwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  76-81.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200903907
      Abstract ( 390 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (3781KB) ( 388 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of different yarn forming methods (ring spun, rotor spun and air-jet-vortex spun) on the mixing effect of different colored fibers in blended yarns, six types of color blended yarns were spun by using two blending methods (one-drawing process and three-drawing process) and three yarn forming methods. Cross-sectional samples of color blended yarns were made, and Hamilton index was calculated to characterize the radial distribution of colored fibers in the blended yarns. By testing the yarn properties, the yarn quality associated to different spinning methods was analyzed. The results show that the fiber mixing effect of rotor spun blended yarn is best, followed by the air-jet-vortex and ring spun yarns. The fiber mixing effect of the color blended yarns with three-drawing processes was better than that with one-drawing process, and the strength of blended ring spun yarns was the highest, and the hairiness of air-jet-vortex spun blended yarns was the least.

      Preparation and properties of puncture-resistant fabrics made from polyester and aramid or ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene compound yarns
      LI Fengyan, YE Tianyu, ZHAN Xiaoqing, ZHAO Jian, LI Danyang, WANG Rui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  82-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201007007
      Abstract ( 635 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (2241KB) ( 107 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the costs and improve comfortability of puncture-resistant fabrics made from high performance fibers, the compound yarn with aramid or ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene fiber (UHMWPE) and polyester were prepared and used as the yarn materials of puncture-resistant fabrics. The influence of compound yarn, fabric density and overlying layers on static puncture properties, air and moisture permeability of fabrics were measured and analyzed. The results show that the puncture force increases with the increase in fabric areal density, and the addition of polyester fibers either maintain or improve the puncture resistance of the fabrics. By increasing the fabric layers, the maximal load improvement is close to 536%. In addition, the puncture load could be achieved by increasing fiber content with small fabric layers.The addition of compound yarn has no influence on air and moisture permeability of the fabrics. However, the air permeability are significantly decreased with overlying layers to 64.82% with the increase of fabric warp and weft densities.

      Technological model establishment and system realization of weft-knitted products
      SHEN Yingle, CONG Honglian, YU Xuliang, ZHENG Peixiao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  89-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702006
      Abstract ( 290 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2549KB) ( 92 )   Save
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      In order to develop a weft-knitted product design system, this paper studies the process design model of weft knits based on studying the design characteristics and the structural principle of style forming. The research content includes the mathematical modeling method for weft knitted product pattern process, the mathematical models of design, and creation of process pattern diagram respectively.The information of the pattern was described in mathematically, and the structural pattern diagram describes the relationship between the pattern diagram and the knitting row and visually represents the knitting state of the yarn. The design of the overlapping pattern gives more dimensional information and can control the movement of the motor and yarn finger at the same time. Combined with the design model, the process design of the product was realized through the function of color block partition organization, filling and element mapping, which simplified the process design process and realized the standard and efficient weft knitted product design system.

      Design and numerical analysis of new types of melt blowing slot-dies
      WANG Yudong, JI Changchun, WANG Xinhou, GAO Xiaoping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201000406
      Abstract ( 440 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (3951KB) ( 95 )   Save
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      In order to improve the airflow field and reduce the fiber diameter, several new die-heads were designed on the basis of a common slot-die, and a numerical study was conducted on such die-heads.The structural models of the new slot-dies were constructed by Gambit and Fluent software was used to numerically calculate the two-dimensional flow fields from these new slot-dies. In addition, the air velocity, temperature, turbulence intensity distribution on the spinning line of these new die-heads and their influence on fiber drafting were analyzed. The research results show that compared with the common slot-die, the new die-head with internal flow stabilizers can effectively reduce the recirculation zone, increase the peak speed on the spinning line, and reduce the speed fluctuation and temperature decay rate on the spinning line.The new slot-die with an air compressor can increase the velocity and temperature of the flow field, but it has little effect on the reverse velocity and the peak of the turbulence intensity near the die-head.Comprehensive comparison indicates that the new slot-die with an internal stabilizer and an air compressor has the best performance and is more conducive to drawing fibers.

      Effect of cyclic loading treatment on creep behavior of polyvinyl chloride coated membrane
      WANG Zexing, LI Shuai, TAN Dongyi, MENG Shuo, HE Bin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  101-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201007707
      Abstract ( 234 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2478KB) ( 79 )   Save
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      To further investigate the mechanism of loading process on the creep properties of coated membrane, the creep behavior of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coated membrane after cyclic loading were evaluated, and the effects of cyclic number, peak cyclic stress and cyclic loading rate on the creep behavior and ability to retain the initial deformation in creep process were also analyzed. The results show that the creep mechanism of the coated membrane after different cyclic loading processes are basically the same, the creep behavior and ability to retain the initial deformation in creep process are governed by cyclic number, peak cyclic stress, and the cyclic loading rate. For the PVC coated membrane, increasing loading cycles, improving cyclic peak stress and decreasing loading rate are beneficial for improving the ability to retain the initial deformation in the creep process,and for reducing the maintenance workload of the membrane structure during its service time. However, it would prolong the cyclic loading period and increase the workload during the pretension stage in the construction process.

      Free form deformation modeling method and inflation mechanism of folded canopy fabrics
      ZHANG Siyu, YU Li, JIA He, LIU Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  108-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200704107
      Abstract ( 301 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (3818KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      Folded flexible canopy fabrics of ram-air parachutes modeling is a key problem in the interaction calculation during inflation process. According to physical folding characteristics, a modeling method of folded canopy fabrics was proposed based on free form deformation. The wing surface deformation was achieved by moving control nodes with direct constraint method of free form deformation. The spanwise folding was obtained by coordinate matrix transformation. In order to modify the geometric errors, the initial stress method was introduced to make the folded model with mechanical characteristics. The folded canopy fabrics model of a certain ram-air parachute was established using this method, and the fluid-structure interaction calculation was carried out based on the arbitrary Lagrange-Euler method during inflation process. The three-dimensional shape, stress and unsteady flow field distribution were obtained. The corresponding calculation and airdrop experiment verified the rationality and feasibility of this method.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Low-moisture content baking and steaming color fixation process for cotton fabrics padded with reactive dyes
      CHEN Xiaowen, WU Wei, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  115-122.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200907608
      Abstract ( 382 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2935KB) ( 48 )   Save
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      To solve the problems of high energy consumption, hydrolysis of reactive dyes, high salinity and high discharge of wastewater in the conventional pad-dry-pad-steam process of cotton fabrics, a low-moisture content baking and steaming color fixation process for cotton fabrics was proposed using a sealed device. The changes of the fabric surface temperature in the sealing device were investigated,and the effects of moisture content on fabric heating and dyeing performance were discussed for theoretical analysis of low-moisture content baking and steaming color fixation for cotton fabrics. To determine the optimal technique, the effects of cotton fabrics baking and steaming temperature and time, and concentrations of substitute alkali and Na2SO4 were explored. Compared with the pad-dry-pad-steam process, the K/S value of the fabric dyed by low-moisture content baking and steaming color fixation process demonstrated an improvement. However, the rubbing fastness of cotton fabrics by the two processes was similar. Incorporating the sealing device in the pad-dye process offers a new method for improving reactive dye properties of cotton fabrics.

      Improved genetic algorithm for fabric formulation prediction based on simulated annealing algorithm
      XU Xuemei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  123-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200705106
      Abstract ( 381 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (877KB) ( 109 )   Save
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      In order to improve the color matching accuracy, efficiency and generalization ability of traditional color matching methods and existing color matching algorithms, a fabric intelligent color matching model based on the combination of genetic algorithm and simulated annealing algorithm based on BP neural network was constructed, and the color was predicted by the trained BP neural network. The good BP neural network and the CIEDE2000 color difference formula were combined to form the fitness function of the genetic algorithm. The genetic algorithm based on the BP neural network improved by the simulated annealing algorithm was used to predict the color formula, and the polyester fabric was dyed according to the predicted recipe. The research results show that the genetic algorithm color matching model optimized by the simulated annealing algorithm based on BP neural network only needs 80 iterations to converge. The theoretical average color difference of the predicted colors is 0.165, the average color difference from dyeing experiments is 0.289, and the average absolute error of the formula is 0.010 7. The average theoretical color difference of the verification sample is 0.240, and the average color difference of the dyeing experiment is 0.437. It is proved that the algorithm can realize the intelligent color matching of fabrics.

      Effect of household washing on properties of anti-creasing cotton fabrics
      GUO Heng, HUANG Hongbo, YAO Jinbo, JIANG Huiyu, XIA Zhigang, WANG Yunli
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  129-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200703808
      Abstract ( 302 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (4394KB) ( 58 )   Save
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      In order to study the maintenance of anti-creasing property of polycarboxylic acid anti-creasing treated cotton fabrics in the daily washing process,experiments were carried out to simulate the environment of daily household washing, where the anti-creasing cotton fabrics were washed under different detergent types, different wash-temperatures, and different wash-times. The wrinkle recovery angle, breaking strength and surface morphology of the original and post-washing fabrics were tested and compared, and the anti-creasing property of anti-creasing cotton fabrics during the washing process was analyzed.The results of the study show that after repeated washing, the wrinkle recovery angle and breaking strength of anti-creasing cotton fabrics are reduced, and the surface morphology and microstructure of the fibers demonstrate certain changes. After repeated washing of the mixed solution at 80 ℃ for 50 times, the breaking strength is reduced by about 26%, and the wrinkle recovery angle of the sample is reduced by about 50%. For anti-creasing cotton fabrics in the household washing process, high-temperature composite repeated washing show a greater destructive effect on its anti-creasing property.

      Visual measurement of key geometric parameters of droplet in circuit jet printing on fabric surface
      XU Jin, YANG Pengcheng, XIAO Yuan, XU Guangshen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  137-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200803007
      Abstract ( 238 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2919KB) ( 113 )   Save
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      This research was carried out targeting on the low degree of automation in the process of measuring the geometric size and speed of the droplets in the conductive circuit printed on the fabric surface by combing the technology of visual measurement and droplet injection. A high-speed camera was used to record the droplet ejection process capturing continuous droplet images. The pixel-based threshold selection method was used to segment the droplet images to obtain binary image of the droplets. The edge contour of the droplet was extracted by the step-edge detection algorithm, and the area and diameter parameters of a single droplet were obtained according to the relationship between the area and the diameter. The roundness parameter of a single droplet was measured, and the instantaneous velocity of the droplet was calculated based on the displacement between two frames of droplet images. The experimental results show that the accuracy of the measurement results obtained by the visual measurement method can reach the pixel level, the entire measurement process is not time-consuming, and real-time measurement is achievable, which would provide the necessary monitoring means for the subsequent precise formation of the circuit on the fabric surface.

      Apparel Engineering
      Relationship between thermal-moist comfort of medical protective clothing and human fatigue
      NIU Mengyu, PAN Shuwen, DAI Hongqin, LÜ Kaimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  144-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201003607
      Abstract ( 720 )   HTML ( 46 )   PDF (3313KB) ( 240 )   Save
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      It has been a noted problem that medical staff wearing medical protective clothing for a long time would feel hot and humid, leading to fatigue and low work efficiency. A research based on human wearing experiment is carried out. Through the analysis of human thermal physiology and subjective fatigue parameters, the influence of the thermal-moist comfort performance of medical protective clothing on human fatigue was analyzed. The results show that the thermal-moist comfort of protective clothing with short sleeves is the best, and that with long sleeve and thick suit was the worst.Wearing protective clothing with different thermal-moist comfort performance has different effects on human fatigue under different exercise intensity. Wearing protective clothing in the state of sitting, the difference of human fatigue degree is small. Under the conditions of low, medium and high exercise intensity and recovery, it was shown that the worse the thermal-moist comfort of protective clothing, the deeper the fatigue degree of human body. The average skin temperature, heart rate and metabolic equivalent of energy were found to be significantly correlated with subjective fatigue. Regression analysis was used to get the model of fatigue and heart beat rate, which reflects the fatigue degree of human body.

      Influence of wind speed on moisture resistance of single-layer and double-layer combined sportswear knit fabrics
      WANG Lijun, MA Ximing, DING Yinjia, CHEN Chengyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  151-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200503107
      Abstract ( 319 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1742KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      In order to build an effective prediction model of moisture resistance of single-layer and double-layer combined sportswear knit fabrics in soft wind range, twelve T-shirt fabrics and eight outerwear fabrics which are commonly used were selected for this study. The moisture resistance of fabrics under four wind speeds was tested, and the representative T-shirt and outerwear fabrics were obtained by cluster analysis. By simulating the two-layer dressing state of T-shirt and outerwear, quantitative test of moisture resistance between skin, T-shirt and outerwear under different wind speeds were carried out.The third-order polynomial model of the moisture resistance of T-shirt and outerwear fabric and wind speed, and the linear model between the moisture resistance of double-layer fabrics combination and the moisture resistance of inner and outer layer fabric were constructed. The results show that the moisture resistance of T-shirt, outerwear and double-layer fabrics combination decreases with the increase of wind speed within the range of soft wind, and the moisture resistance of the inner T-shirt fabric has a greater impact on the moisture resistance of the double-layer sportswear fabric combination. The mean absolute percentage error of the prediction models of moisture resistance of T-shirt and outerwear fabric is 2.22% and 4.85% respectively, and the mean absolute percentage error of double-layer fabrics combination moisture resistance model is 3.20%.

      Development and performance evaluation of thermal protective clothing for moped cycling
      ZHENG Qing, WANG Zhaojie, WANG Hongbo, WANG Min, KE Ying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  158-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200606706
      Abstract ( 482 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (2353KB) ( 104 )   Save
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      To improve thermal comfort and leg mobility while moped cycling, a novel protective clothing was developed using high-performance materials and adopting a two-piece style and a multi-opening structure. Based on the wearing trials, the new thermal protective clothing was compared with an existing wind-proof clothing. The thermal protective performance of the clothing was tested through skin temperature measurement and subjective feeling evaluation in a cold environment of 5 ℃ and 50% relative humidity. The ergonomics of the clothing was evaluated by visual analogue scale. The experimental results show that the mean skin temperature when wearing the novel thermal protective clothing was significantly higher than that of the wind-proof clothing during cycling, and the subjective thermal sensation and thermal comfort were significantly improved compared to the wind-proof clothing. The design of trousers using the novel thermal protective clothing affected the convenience of donning and doffing, but significantly improved the leg mobility, which is more suitable for cycling moped with foot pedals.

      Recommendations for user's bottoms matching based on generative adversarial networks
      YANG Zhengyan, XUE Wenliang, ZHANG Chuanxiong, DING Yi, MA Yanxue
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  164-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200803505
      Abstract ( 329 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1567KB) ( 120 )   Save
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      In order to avoid repetitive purchases of similar clothes and to solve the clothing matching problem, this research worked on an intelligent clothing matching system for providing recommendations to customers and end-users. A crawler technology was used to obtain a large number of clothing matching data from mid-to-high end brands, and the model of deep learning-generative adversarial network (GAN) was adopted to learn clothing data to explore the visual perceptions of colors, styles, and so on. When inputting a piece of top clothing in the system, a bottom picture can be generated intelligently and then matched to the user's personal wardrobe together with the consideration of the surrounding temperature. The effectiveness of this method was verified by comparing the original matching with the model generated matching.This work provides new ideas for intelligent clothing matching.

      Comprehensive Review
      Application research progress of optical fiber in luminescent fabrics
      LIN Wenjun, MIAO Xuhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  169-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200807006
      Abstract ( 849 )   HTML ( 47 )   PDF (882KB) ( 416 )   Save
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      In order to better apply optical fiber to intelligent textiles, the types and preparation of optical fiber, and the existing forms, characteristics and the latest research progress of optical fiber luminous fabrics woven from optical fibers are reviewed, and the problems existing in these forms of fabrics are pointed out. Based on the application of luminous fabrics, the applications of optical fiber luminous fabrics for intelligent clothing are summarized. Combined with the specific requirements of optical fiber for luminous fabrics and luminous fabric required properties, key problems for the commercialization of optical fiber luminous fabrics prepared from using optical fiber are discussed. It is suggested that the optical fiber luminescent fabric should have similar wearability to daily wears with improved basic performance and durability of the luminescent fabrics, achieving high luminance and uniform luminescence. Comprehensive prediction on trend of development is given for applications of fiber optic luminescent fabrics in intelligent textiles.

      Recent progress in preparation of cellulose-based organic-inorganic photocatalysts nanohybrids and it's application in water treatment
      ZHANG Tingting, XU Kexin, JIN Mengtian, GE Shijie, GAO Guohong, CAI Yixiao, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  175-183.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200607109
      Abstract ( 427 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1153KB) ( 226 )   Save
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      With the aim of solving the agglomeration of traditional nano-sized photocatalysts particles that leads to low catalytic activity and recycling difficulty, it is imperative to promote the scalable application of advanced photocatalytic technology using cellulose based hybrid photocatalysts with high active site exposure, high dispersion and long-term stability. This review summarizes the recent progress in worldwide research on cellulose-based organic-inorganic photocatalysts nanohybrids. In terms of different cellulose forms, the fabrication and preparation principle of nanocellulose, cellulose-based membrane, cellulose-based aerogel and their application in the fields of water treatment are discussed. The prospect of cellulose based photocatalytic materials and the existing scientific questions and limitations are proposed. It is anticipated that this review can be used as a reference for preparation and industrialization of cellulose-based functional materials, especially in areas of environmental remediation.

      Research progress in weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabric reinforced composites
      ZHOU Mengmeng, JIANG Gaoming, GAO Zhe, ZHENG Peixiao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  184-191.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200802508
      Abstract ( 580 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (2684KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      To promote the integral forming design and sustainable development of weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabric reinforced composite materials, this paper reviewed the weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabrics and their composite materials. The preparation of weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabrics and the mechanical properties of its composite materials were summarized and analyzed, including the features of weft-knitted biaxial fabric, the design of weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabric, biaxial circular knitting machine and its knitting principle, the experimental research of weft-knitted tubular fabric, the research of micro-geometry model and finite element analysis. Based on these and the actual developing situation of weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabric reinforced composite materials, it was proposed that the future research about weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabric reinforced composite materials should take place concerning structural forming design, mechanical properties analysis, and industrial application, in order to develop the engineering weft-knitted biaxial tubular fabric reinforced composite materials.

      Research progress of organic pigment modification technology for textiles coloration
      WANG Fenping, LI Jiawei, HUANG Huajun, WU Jindan, FU Shaohai, QI Dongming, ZHAO Lei, HE Guiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(07):  192-200.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200707709
      Abstract ( 562 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (1698KB) ( 329 )   Save
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      Due to easy agglomeration and poor water-dispersion stability of organic pigment micro-particles, the modification of organic pigment micro-particles attracted much research attention in the field of textile coloration. This paper reviews global research progress in modification technology for organic pigments, introduces the stabilization of surfactant and encapsulation of organic/inorganic materials, and discusses the influence of modification technology on the properties of pigments. It is pointed out that coating modification of organic/inorganic materials has greatly improved the use of pigments, solving the problems of pigment dispersibility, light resistance, weather resistance and thermal stability under common storage and use conditions. However, the pigment modification techniques need continued attention and urgent research for achieving rapid printing and dyeing, fine color quality and improved wearing property.