Table of Content

15 November 2021, Volume 42 Issue 11

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Invited Paper

Research progress of silk fibroin-based hydrogel bioinks for 3D bio-printing

JIANG Yulin, WANG Hui, ZHANG Keqin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211003008

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As a natural and ancient protein material, silk fibroin (SF) has become an excellent candidate for 3D printing bioinks due to its excellent properties, and has received extensive attention in the biomedical field. The development of SF in the field of biological 3D printing is summarized, the basic physicochemical and biological characteristics of SF materials are mainly summarized, and the requirements and processability of SF materials as bio-inks for extrusion biological 3D printing, photocurable biological 3D printing and inkjet biological 3D printing are discussed. The research progress of SF based hydrogel inks synthesized with artificial polymers, natural polymers and inorganic functional materials in the field of biological 3D printing in recent years is reviewed, and the challenges are discussed. It is pointed out that with the further development of biological 3D printing technology, SF-based hydrogel constructs formed by biological 3D printing will have a broader application prospect in the biomedical field.

Fiber Materials

Melt polycondensation and kinetics of phosphorus containing flame retardant copolyesters

WAN Suying, BAO Jianna, WANG Ying, ZHANG Xianming, CHEN Shichang, YANG Zhichao, SHI Jiaoxue, CHEN Wenxing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  9-16.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210101008

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In order to study the influencing factors for melt polycondensation of high-viscosity phosphorus containing flame retardant copolyesters, flame retardant copolyesters with different phosphorus contents were synthesized by melt-polycondensation with 2-carboxyethyl (phenyl)phosphinic acid (CEPPA) as flame retardant. The melt polycondensation was conducted, and the effects of temperature, time and addition amount of phosphorus-containing flame retardant on intrinsic viscosity of copolyesters were investigated. The results show that the flame retardant is added into polyester successfully. The viscosity of copolyesters is increased significantly within a certain temperature range. When the temperature increases further, the degradation reaction intensified making the increase of viscosity more difficult. The more the addition of flame retardant, the more difficult it is to increase the viscosity. By establishing the reaction kinetics model, it was found that the reaction rate constant of flame retardant copolyesters increases with the increase of temperature, and decreases with the increase of flame retardant content.The activation energy increases with the increase of flame retardant content, the highest reaches 114.73 kJ/mol. The factors for melt polycondensation are analyzed based on the orthogonal experiment. The important order was found to be the reaction time, addition amount of flame retardant and reaction temperature.

Preparation and microstructure control of aerogel fibers based on aramid nanofibers

CHEN Xian, LI Mengmeng, ZHAO Xin, DONG Jie, TENG Cuiqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  17-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102007

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In order to further improve the mechanical strength of aerogel fibers, the dispersion solution of aramid nanofibers was prepared with para aramid fiber as raw materials, and aerogel fibers based on aramid nanofibers were fabricated via wet spinning, solvent displacement and following freeze-drying processes. The microstructures of aerogel fibers based on aramid nanofibers were also adjusted by changing the percentage of tertiary butyl alcohol and water in the solvent replacement bath. The results showed that the change of solvent replacement bath could give the aerogel fibers good formability. When the volumetric ratio of tert-butanol to water in the solvent replacement bath was 1∶1, the aerogel fiber had a fluffy network structure in the interior,its specific surface area reached 165.4 m²/g and the fracture strength was 4.8 MPa. With the increase of water content, the specific surface area of aerogel fibers decreased with enhanced the mechanical strength. When only water was used as the solvent replacement solution, the aramid nanofibers were neatly orientated in the fiber length direction, and the fracture strength of aerogel fibers reached 328.7 MPa.

Effect of cotton cleaning on fiber quality of machine-harvested cotton in Xinjiang region

WU Yanqin, TIAN Jingshan, ZHANG Xuyi, XU Shouzhen, ZUO Wenqing, ZHANG Wangfeng, GOU Ling, ZHANG Yali, DONG Hengyi, JIU Xingli, YU Yongchuan, ZHAO Zhan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  24-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210104105

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To reduce the fiber quality damage caused by machine-harvesting and cleaning processes, the relationship between fiber quality and levels of cleaning were comparatively analyzed with regards to Xinjiang cotton. The optimum number of cleaning processes for machine-harvested cotton was determined based on minimal fiber damage. The results indicated that each cotton cleaner causes fiber damage, and seed cotton cleanings vary greatly in its effect on fiber strength with the strength reduction of 1.0 cN/tex. The declines during the second and third seed cotton cleanings, are greater than those during the first and fourth cleanings. Lint cleanings significantly reduce the fiber length and length uniformity index by 0.8 mm and 1.7%, and significantly increase short fiber index by 2.0%, and the greatest damage takes place during the first lint cleaning (included ginning). Therefore, differentiated selections of seed cotton cleanings should be adopted based on the level of leaf contamination by using 1 or 2 seed cotton cleaners. Lint cleaning should only use one air-type lint cleaner or this could sometimes be omitted.

Real-time detection of inferior cocoons through model compression and receptive field enhancement

ZHANG Yinhui, YANG Hongkuan, LIU Qiang, HE Zifen

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  29-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210103610

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The current inferior cocoons detection mainly depends on manual visual inspection, which leads to low work efficiency. Based on anchor parameter presetting, channel pruning and embedding receptive field block, an improved lightweight real time inferior cocoons detection model was proposed.Firstly, the model parameters of YOLOv3 were preset through K-means clustering analysis of the anchor suitable for inferior cocoons detection. Then, according to a preset pruning rate, the sparsely trained model was pruned based on batch normalization layer scaling factor to compress the size of the model. Finally, the receptive field block was embedded the pruned model to enlarge the receptive field of the model and enhance the discriminability and robustness of the model. The experimental results show that the proposed inferior cocoons real-time detection model is 46.90 M in size, and the mean average detection speed and precision reach 50.18 frames/s and 96.80% respectively. Compared with the original YOLOv3 model, the parameters are compressed by 79.96%, the mean average detection speed is increased by 60.63%, and the mean average detection precision is increased by 3.20%.

Textile Engineering

Characteristics of forward wrapping of hollow spindle covered spinning

AO Limin, TANG Wen

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  39-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200809407

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In order to explore the wrapping effect characteristics of hollow spindle covered spinning which is different from other spinning technologies with hollow spindle mechanism, the process route and wrapping principle of covered spinning, parallel spinning, and hollow spindle fancy twisting technology were compared, the "forward wrapping" process was adopted for the direct wrapping of the core yarn by the outer wrapping yarn in covered spinning,and speed and tension analyses were carried out on the wrapping action. The results show that the wrapping angle of the outer wrapping yarn causes the wrapping point to move when the core yarn speed and the wrapping speed are unbalanced, and the joining guide wire imposes limits on the fluctuation of the wrapping point, resulting smaller range of wrapping twist variation. A suitable core yarn tension was found a necessary guarantee for achieving normal wrapping, and the deviation of the wrapping point from the center line caused by improper tension matching would cause change in wrapping structure. The wrapping tension causes the core yarn to rotate in the same direction as the wrapping direction, which has a counteracting effect on the wrapping twist.

Test method for abrasion resistance of sized yarn under simulated weaving conditions

GUO Min, GAO Weidong, ZHU Bo, LIU Jianli, GUO Mingrui

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  46-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201203105

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The existing yarn abrasion resistance tester is unable to obtain accurate results due to the great difference between the testing condition and the weaving state. To improve the abrasion resistance test accuracy of the sized yarn, an new abrasion resistance tester(JN-01 Sizing Abrasion Tester) was designed and constructed, which closely simulate the weaving conditions.The tester involves the let-off mechanism, take-up mechanism, shedding mechanism, beating-up mechanism, and a yarn tension adaptive adjustment mechanism. It is able to maintain a constant yarn tension and load stability during the test. Based on the actual test of the yarn abrasion resistance, the influence of the number of samples on test results was discussed, and a total of 50 sized yarns in 5 groups were determined as test samples. Through testing the abrasion resistance of raw and sized yarns on JN-01 and LFY-109A Yarn Abrasion Tester for three levels of fineness, the stability of JN-01 Sizing Abrasion Tester was verified, which could meet the test requirements.

Key technologies for formation of warp T-shape preforms

WEI Xiaoling, LI Ruixue, QIN Zhuo, HU Xinrong, LIN Fusheng, LIU Lingshan, GONG Xiaozhou

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  51-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210303805

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In order to overcome the limitation of the traditional "flattening-restoring" weaving method for preparing three-dimensional textile preforms, T-shape three-dimensional woven fabrics with specified beam height and bottom thickness and one-time forming were woven based on orthogonal organization and warp binding ensuring weaving continuity and integral T-shape preforms.Through optimizing and improving the weaving process, two types of T-shape three-dimensional woven fabrics with binding yarns spanning different weft rows were woven, and the dimensions of different areas were measured. The results show that in a complete tissue cycle, in order to sink the floating line across the bottom area and meet the fabric size requirements, the number of yarns in the bottom area is about half of the total number of yarns. Moreover, when the weft yarn spans two weft yarn rows, the evenness and formability of the fabric surface are better.

Ballistic impact tests and numerical simulation of aramid fabric and containment ring

MOU Haolei, XIE Jiang, PEI Hui, FENG Zhenyu, GENG Hongzhang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  56-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200905009

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To investigate the ballistic impact response characteristics of aramid fabric and its containment ring, the mechanical properties of the aramid fabric were obtained by conducting the quasi-static and dynamic tensile tests, and the impact performance of the aramid fabric plate and its containment ring were determined by conducting the ballistic impact tests. The numerical multi-layer shell models were built and verified using the test results. The research results show that the strain rate has a significant effect on the mechanical properties of the aramid fabric.For the fabric ballistic impact tests, the energy absorption of the aramid fabric is related to the failure mode, and there are obvious boundary effects. For the ballistic impact tests on the containment ring, the energy is dissipated mainly through the yarn strain energy, the yarn breakage and the interaction between yarns. At the same incident velocities, the smaller is the number of layers, the less energy is absorbed. When the number of fabric layers increases, the more energy is absorbed, but the increment of energy absorption decreases. The multi-layer shell models can well reproduce the ballistic impact process, and the simulated failure morphology, the residual velocity of projectile, and the absorbed energy percent difference are close to the test results, which can effectively verify the multi-layer shell models.

Fabric defects segmentation using total variation

LIU Guowei, PAN Ruru, GAO Weidong, ZHOU Jian

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  64-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201200807

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Aiming at the problem of insufficient accuracy of the current woven fabric defect detection methods, this paper proposes a fabric defect segmentation method based on the total variation model, focusing on solving unobvious defects along warp and weft directions. The singular value decomposition low-rank was used to reconstruct the textile texture image by removing the texture background of the fabric so as to obtain the defect abnormal map. Following that, by constructing a total variation model, the defect anomaly map was optimized to obtain the enhanced abnormal map under different constraints. Finally, the accurate segmentation of defects was achieved through adopting the conventional segmentation algorithms. The experimental results show that the separability of the defects and the background of the defect abnormal image processed by the proposed total variation model has been significantly improved. The influence of the parameters of the model on the segmentation results was discussed to further verify the effectiveness and stability of the method.

Design of fatigue testing device and fatigue resistance evaluation of artificial ligaments

LU Jun, GUAN Xiaoning, LIN Jing, LAO Jihong, WANG Fujun, LI Yan, WANG Lu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  71-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210101206

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Aiming at the graft failure of artificial ligaments under complex mechanical environment in the knee joint cavity, an artificial ligament fatigue testing device was built, composing of a tensile motion module, a torsion motion module, a flexion motion module and an insulation temperature liquid return system. Clinical physiological parameters such as tensile displacement, torsion angle and flexion angle of the human body during normal walking were selected for fatigue tests and evaluation of fatigue resistance of artificial ligament specimens. The results showed that the friction damage between fibers and yarns was the main fatigue damage mode of the specimens and the tensile property of the specimens suffered some loss after fatigue and the normalized tensile modulus decreased exponentially with time. The macromolecular chains of the specimens were subjected to a series of multi-directional loads such as tension, compression, torsion and flexion during the fatigue test, which ultimately led to a decrease in crystallinity.

Preparation and sound insulation performance of polyester fabric/polyvinyl chloride-hollow glass microspheres composites

PU Dandan, FU Yaqin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  77-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210107907

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In order to prepare a light sound insulation composite, polyester fabric/polyvinyl chloride (PVC)-hollow glass microspheres (HGM) composites were prepared by contact molding technology with polyvinyl chloride as matrix materials, hollow microspheres as matrix filling materials, tributyl citrate as plasticizers, polyester fabric as reinforcement materials, and self-made silica/tributyl citrate sizing agent as interface optimization agents. The sound insulation performance of the composites was tested by using a double-channel acoustic tester. The results show that the mass of the composites decreases linearly with the increase of HGM volume fraction for the same thickness of polyester/PVC-HGM composites. The increase of HGM volume fraction did not significantly improve the sound insulation performance of polyester fabric/PVC-HGM composite.With the increase of HGM particle size, the sound insulation performance of polyester fabric/PVC-HGM composites with the same volume fraction of HGM was significantly improved.

Mechanical properties of carbon fiber/polypropylene/polylactic acid reinforced composites

SONG Xueyang, ZHANG Yan, XU Chenggong, WANG Ping, RUAN Fangtao

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  84-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201004005

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In order to reduce the content of polypropylene (PP) in carbon fiber/PP composites and reduce the environmental degradation pressure without changing the mechanical properties of carbon fiber/PP composites, the carbon fiber/PP composite resin system was doped with degradable polylactic acid (PLA) to form a blended resin system, and the carbon fiber reinforced blended resin composites were prepared by hot pressing. The effects of the mass ratio of PLA toPP blends on the impact, bending and tensile properties of the composites were investigated. The results show that with the increase of mass fraction of PLA in resin system, the impact and bending strength of carbon fiber composites decrease first and then increase, while the tensile strength increases first and then decreases. When the PLA mass fraction is 60%, the impact strength and flexural strength of the composites are the highest at 21.8 kJ/m² and 112.5 MPa, and the tensile strength is 37.2 MPa, which has the optimal comprehensive physical and mechanical properties, which is similar to the mechanical properties of the composites without PLA.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Application of low/non-ammonia additives in reactive deep printing

XIAN Yongfang, WANG Hongmei, WU Minghua, WANG Lili

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  89-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201101409

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In order to develop the low/non-ammonia additives with high color performances in reactive deep printing, this research started by comparing the hygroscopicity, ability to swell, and ability to solubilize reactive dyes of different printing additives, and the internal relationships between the structures of additives and the above properties were explored. The additives with the above-mentioned properties were compounded for reactive deep printing on cotton fabrics. The results showed that among different types of additives, glycerol demonstrated the best hygroscopicity, 1,4-butanediol showed the best swellability to cotton fiber, and the amides exhibited the best solubility to Reactive Turquoise K-GL. When the mass ratio of glycerol and 1,4-butanediol was 2∶8, the color performances of the non-ammonia nitrogen compound on the reactive turquoise deep printing of cotton fabrics were much higher than those of the commercial alternative 391-H and slightly higher than using urea as additive. Good printing performances with reactive red, orange, blue and black dyes were achieved, enabling the reduction of the ammonia-nitrogen content in the printing wastewater.

Interactive color replacement method for printed fabrics based on Mean-shift

HU Qun, ZHANG Ning, PAN Ruru

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  97-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201103806

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In order to enhance the professional design skills, increase the efficiency in pattern proofing and facilitate color replacement for product series in designing and producing printed fabrics, a color separation and color replacement method was proposed for the printed fabric based on texture smoothing and Mean-shift image segmentation.The printed fabrics were captured and cut to obtain the images before the fabric image was smoothed using the relative total variation model. After transferring into CIE1976L^*a^*b^*color space, the image was segmented using Mean-shift clustering to extract the separated colors. The mapping relationship between new color and original color was built for color replacement. Finally, color replacement was achieved by interactively adjusting values of the separated colors. Different printed fabrics were captured for the color replacement experiments, and the results show that fabric images after color replacement are natural and practical, and texture details of the fabrics are reserved completely. This method can assist the design of printed fabrics as well as effects simulation of fabric proofing.

Preparation and properties of flame retardant polyester/cotton blended fabrics by layer-by-layer assemblying polyethylenimine/phytic acid

LIU Xinhua, LIU Hailong, FANG Yinchun, YAN Peng, HOU Guangkai

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  103-109.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201206407

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In order to achieve environmental friendly flame retardancy of polyester/cotton fabrics, PEI/PA flame retardant coating was constructed on the surface of polyester/cotton fabrics using polyethyleneimine (PEI) and phytic acid (PA) as raw materials based on the layer-by-layer assembly (LBL) method. The infrared characteristic absorption, microscopic morphology, thermal stability and flame retardant properties of the polyester/cotton fabrics before and after finishing were characterized and evaluated using Fourier infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, limiting oxygen index (LOI) tester and vertical combustion tester. The results show that PEI/PA flame retardant coating is successfully constructed on the polyester/cotton fabric using the LBL method. Compared with the unfinished polyester/cotton fabric, the LOI value of polyester/cotton fabric treated with PEI/PA coating reached 32.3%, its char length reduced to 98 mm. Both the after-flame time and after-glow time were 0 s, no molten droplets were generated, and the breaking strength and whiteness of the fabric were less influenced by the treatment, and the thermal stability of polyester/cotton fabric was improved to form a stable char layer.The LOI value of finished fabrics after 20 times washing was still over 26% showing good washing durability.

Preparation and properties of flexible flame retardant polyamide coated fabric via wet coating

CHEN Zhijie, YU Yihao, FU Ye, LEI Pengfei, JIANG Jikang, QI Dongming

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  110-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105607

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In order to address the poor performance of polyamide coated fabric's hand feel and flame retardant properties, caused by insoluble particulate flame retardant, the research introduced 9,10-dihydrogen-9-oxygen hybrid-10-phosphorus hexafil-10-oxide (DOPO) into the polyamide/methanol-calcium chloride solution. A porous, light and thin polyamide coating with DOPO uniformly dispersed, and a smooth and flat surface coating on the fabric were created on the fabric via wet coating which including coating, water exchange into film and drying process. The effects of DOPO and particulate flame retardants on the fluid properties of the polyamide/methanol-calcium chloride solution system were investigated and compared. The results show that DOPO changes the rheological properties of the solution, but does not significantly increase the shear viscosity of the system, which is beneficial to coating processing. According to the test of flame retardant properties and stiffness, it was found that DOPO can effectively improve the flame retardant properties of the coated fabric and retain the flexibility of the fabric compared to the flame retardant particles.

Radical-induced crosslinking of poly(vinyl alcohol) from desizing wastewater

SHEN Chensi, WANG Man, XU Chenye, WANG Huaping, LI Fang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  117-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201204207

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The desizing wastewater of the textile printing and dyeing industry contains a large amount of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) with high polymerization and strong chemical stability, which is a difficult point in the water pollution treatment. Taking advantage of persulfate's ability to initiate free radical crosslinking and strong oxidation, combined with the characteristics of high temperature discharge of desizing wastewater, a thermally activated persulfate system was used to precipitate PVA from wastewater.The effects of persulfate dosage, reaction time, reaction temperature, and pH value on the removal of PVA were investigated.And electron paramagnetic resonance, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy were used to analyze the cross-linked precipitates.The results show that when the dosage of persulfate was 10 g/L and the wastewater temperature was 70 ℃, PVA could be effectively cross-linked and precipitated after 30 minutes, and the removal rate of chemical oxygen demand (COD) and PVA could reach 95.1% and 95.6%,respectively.The production of sulfate radical and hydroxyl radical in thermally activated persulfate system induced the production of carbon-based radicals, and the carbon-based radicals continued to react together and produced the crosslinking product.

Effect of ultrasonic treatment on 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane in polyurethane coating of polyester fabric

ZHU Lanfang, BAI Jie, ZHOU Yincheng, HOU Chengwei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  124-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201208305

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Aiming at the problem of high detection rate of 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane in polyester fabric samples with polyurethane coating treated with xylene solvent decolorization and great difference in results, o-xylene, m-xylene and p-xylene were used as extraction solvents respectively, and polyurethane coated polyester fabric was studied by ultrasonic extraction, and the effects of ultrasonic treatment time, temperature, type of dispersant and volume fraction of dispersant on the peak area response value of 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane mass spectrometry were studied.It was found that when the dispersant acetonitrile was transferred, the response value of the target was the highest. When the volume fraction of acetonitrile was 50%, 70%, 70%, respectively, the peak area of the target substance of the extraction residue of o-xylene, m-xylene and p-xylene was the highest, and when the treatment temperature was 40,50,60 ℃, p-xylene, o-xylene and m-xylene were used as extraction solvent, the peak area of the target compound reached the peak, and the extraction efficiency was the best when the treatment time was 45-50 min.

Apparel Engineering

Style similarity algorithm based on clothing style

JIANG Hui, MA Biao

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  129-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201207808

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In order to calculate accurately the similarity between clothing images so as to meet the cross-scene needs of more users searching for clothing matching images for purchasing similar clothing, the influencing factors of clothing styles were investigated based on clothing styles constructed according to quantitative standards. The feature model of styles was established to further analyze the shortcomings of existing clothing attribute recognition algorithms, and was used to identify styles based on deep learning. The features of clothing styles were depicted through constructing a residual network model that integrates transfer learning. The experimental results show that the precision of the model on clothing style features is close to 90%, and the overall accuracy reaches 80%. Compared with the traditional image similarity methods, the accuracy of the image similarity calculation based on clothing styler is higher.This research also provides new ideas for personalized clothing recommendation.

Color parsing of female brand clothing based on nexus network modeling

XU Minghui, XU Pinghua, WEI Qiuju, DING Xuemei, MAO Hailin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  137-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210100207

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Targeting at lacks of the deep level parsing on rules and mechanisms of clothing color, a nexus network model for clothing color relations and internal connection using imaging processing technology was established. The dominant colors and color ratios of female brand clothing were detected using two-step clustering before an innovative nexus network model was constructed and composed multi-features such as diff-color frequency, dual color matching intimacy and color distances. 500 female clothing images of three representative brands were chosen and analyzed in terms of main color distribution, matching relationship and mechanisms. The developed software efficiently displays each brand color pattern for different years and quarters with a visualized model. Results show that the main colors, spatial distance and co-occurrence rules are different, the cumulative proportion of the first three colors is more than 50%, and the time cost of a single image is less than 0.3 s.The visualized color nexus network model is able to display objectively clothing color rules,assisting the fashion merchandising and design decision-making.

Research on clothing sustainable consumption behavior based on transtheoretical model

HE Lin, CHEN Lihong, DING Xuemei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  143-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210200808

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In order to understand clothing sustainable consumption behavior, transtheoretical model was introduced into the field of sustainable consumption behavior. Through questionnaire survey, this paper employed variance analysis, correlation analysis and descriptive statistics to explore the relationship among the stage of change, the process of change, decision balance and self-efficacy of clothing sustainable consumption behavior, and analyzed the sustainable consumption needs of consumers in different change stages. The results indicated that clothing sustainable consumption behaviors can be divided into four stages including pre-contemplation, contemplation, preparation, and action and maintenance.The development of change stage needs to go through different change processes. Furthermore, pre-contemplation and contemplation stages mainly correspond to the change process of cognitive emotion level as well as preparation and action and maintenance stages mainly correspond to the change process of behavior level. In addition, the perceived benefits and self-efficacy of consumers for sustainable consumption of clothing should continue to improve, and the perceived barriers remain unchanged.

Optimization decision of apparel product portfolio with modular production

HAN Shuguang, YAN Weixiong, HU Jueliang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  151-158.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210102008

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In order to address the difficulty in making decisions for multi-style products faced by garment retailers, an optimization decision process was studied based on the garment product combination of modular production, and the garment fashion degree function under the modular production mode was constructed. Based on the maximization of consumer utility, a demand deterministic consumer choice model and a retailer profit model were established. The directed graph between vertically differentiated clothing products was designed to optimize the product set, and the product portfolio with the shortest path to maximize the retailer's profit was obtained. In addition, the profit distribution between multiple retailers and suppliers in the market is also discussed. The results show that the effect of using directed graph to optimize retailers' clothing product portfolio decision-making is obviously better than that of the exhaustive method. This method is expected to improve the decision-making level of garment retailers and suppliers and maximize profits.

Machinery & Accessories

Design and simulation of Lorentz force actuated maglev knitting needle actuator

LIU Zexu, XU Guangshen, SHENG Xiaochao, DAI Xinyi

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  159-165.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210100107

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In order to solve the problems of friction, impact in triangle knitting needle drive, and avoid the nonlinear influence of electromagnetic force, this paper presents a maglev knitting needle actuator based on Lorentz force. Firstly, the driving principle and mathematical model were proposed, and the electromagnetic finite element analysis is carried out with ANSYS; Secondly, the PID controller is designed, and the system control model is built and simulated in MatLab/Simulink; Finally, the physical platform is built for experimental verification. Magnetic field simulation shows that the magnetic field in the working area of the model is uniform and stable, and the electromagnetic force meets the driving requirements. The control system simulation results show that the needle trajectory is consistent with the expected trajectory, and the simulation error is within ±3.5 μm. The experimental results of the physical platform show that the needle can reach the height of tuck, with rapid, stable and no oscillation, and the experimental error is within ±10 μm. Lorentz force actuated maglev knitting needle actuator can eliminate the friction, vibration and impact in the needle movement. Compared with reluctance force actuated knitting needle actuator, the control system is simple, linear and the control precision can reach micron level.

Effect of structural parameter of relay nozzles on characteristics of flow field in profiled reed of air jet loom

ZHOU Haobang, SHEN Min, YU Lianqing, XIAO Shichao

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  166-172.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200502308

Abstract ( 250 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (4328KB) ( 66 )   Save

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In order to improve the speed and stability of weft insertion system of air-jet looms, the k-ε expression in the Reynolds time average equation was used to simulate the resultant flow field of three different relay nozzles,i.e. a single circular hole, a regular triangular hole and a star-shaped hole,in the profiled reed. Under the air supply pressure of 0.2-0.4 MPa and the different auxiliary spray spacing, the combined flow field was simulated revealing the jet velocity and velocity nephogram along the central axis of the flow field. The results show that when the pressure is the same, the velocity of the central axis of the resultant flow field of the triangle hole relay nozzle is the highest, and it has the largest traction force on the yarn; the velocity of the central axis of the resultant flow field of the star-shaped hole relay nozzle is the smallest, and the weft insertion stability is the best. It was also found that the velocity fluctuation of the central axis of the single circular hole relay nozzle is the largest, and the spacing is more than 70 mm, which is not suitable for weft insertion. Several groups of relay nozzles are used for the width of the whole fabric, and the action timing of each group of nozzles were synchronized. Because the useful jet length is not long, the interval between the nozzles should not be too long in order to realize the relay weft insertion.

Force and position fuzzy impedance control of a sewing robot

WANG Xiaohua, WANG Yuhe, ZHANG Lei, WANG Wenjie

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  173-178.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200605706

Abstract ( 263 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2218KB) ( 131 )   Save

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The end-effector of a sewing robot needs constant force when pressing the fabric for forward movement and sewing so as to ensure wrinkle free in fabrics and uniform sewing track,the fuzzy impedance control method was used to control simultaneously the robot end position and the contact force between the robot end and the fabric. According to the actual sewing task of the sewing robot, the system model was established, and the force/impedance control strategy was adopted to control the force and position of the robot's end press on the fabric, and the optimal impedance parameters of the sewing system were selected according to fuzzy rules. The dynamic balance between the position of the robot operating the fabric and the operating force pressing the fabric at the end of the robot was established, and the simultaneous control requirements of the contact force and position during sewing achieved on the basis of ensuring the smooth movement of each joint of the robot.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of performance enhancement methods for electrospun nanofiber-based photocatalyst

ZHOU Yuanyuan, ZHENG Yuming, WU Xiaoqiong, SHAO Zaidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  179-186.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201004708

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The traditional nano-powder photocatalyst is prone to agglomerate during use,easy to be drained away and difficult to separate and recover, further causing secondary pollution.Photocatalysis is an advanced oxidation technology that can efficiently use solar energy to degrade pollutants, and is environmental friendly. This paper briefly introduced the research progress and existing problems of the single-component electrospun nanofiber-based photocatalyst. Then on the basis of the existing problems, the methods for enhanced modification the performance of the electrospun nanofiber-based photocatalyst were summarized,including element doping, surface precious metal deposition, semiconductor recombination, dye sensitization and graft conjugated polymers. The synthesis methods, principles, advantages, disadvantages and improvement directions of various methods were summarized. It is proposed that further research should be carried out in the development of new photocatalytic materials with high specific surface area and high electron hole separation efficiency, as well as new photocatalysts with multi-functional synergy and high mechanical strength.

Progress in application of photodynamic antibacterial technology for textiles

WANG Zhihui, XU Yufei, GUO Haoyu, ZHANG Kanglei, PANG Xingchen, NIE Xiaolin, ZHUGE Jian, WEI Qufu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  187-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200903610

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In order to study the antibacterial effect of photosensitizers loaded on textile materials and the possibility of its application for textile modifications, the research background of photodynamic antibacterial, types of photosensitizers, current applications of antibacterial textiles, and photosensitizers were systematically reviewed. The commonly used loading forms of the drug are examined, and the conclusions and future prospects are summarized. The review indicates that photodynamic antibacterial textiles are a new type of antibacterial material that can be effectively sterilized and has a good development prospect. The improved loading method through chemical covalent bonding of photosensitizers can solve the problems of poor binding fastness and poor reusability associated with the commonly used loading methods, and can further broaden the research and development path of antibacterial materials. At the same time, it is realized that the current photosensitizers have not been able to control accurately their photosensitizing antibacterial properties. Future research should control the photosensitive antibacterial properties by controlling the types of photosensitizers and the concentration of photosensitizers.

Research progress of image processing technology for fabric defect detection

LÜ Wentao, LIN Qiqi, ZHONG Jiaying, WANG Chengqun, XU Weiqiang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(11):  197-206.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702710

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With the enhancement of product quality requirements in the textile industry and the limitations of traditional defect detection methods, the automatic detection of fabric defects based on image processing technology has seen an rapidly development. Compared with traditional technology, the application of image processing technology improves the processing efficiency and realizes the digitization and intelligent manufacturing of the textile industry. This paper introduces the preprocessing technology of fabric images, and summarizes the mainstream methods of fabric defect detection, including structure-based methods, statistics-based methods, spectrum-based methods, model-based methods and learning-based methods. In addition, it reviews the principles of these methods, and examines their advantages and disadvantages and scope of applications. Besides, the paper introduces the existing finished equipment and compares the advantages and disadvantages of these equipment. Difficulties facing the existing image processing technology in the application of the textile industry are analyzed, and prospects of future development are discussed.