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Table of Content

    15 October 2021, Volume 42 Issue 10
    • Academic Salon Column for New Insight of Textile Science and Technology: Key Technology and Application of Dope-dyed Fiber
      Predicting stability of solvent in dope-dyed Lyocell solution based on molecular simulation
      JIN Hong, ZHANG Yue, ZHANG Yumei, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210604807
      Abstract ( 42 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (3789KB) ( 454 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of pigment on the stability of solvent N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) in the preparation of dope-dyed Lyocell fibers, the interaction between NMMO and three representative pigments including metal oxide, carbon material, and organic molecular crystal was studied by molecular simulation in view of the limitations of traditional experimental testing methods. According to the change of N—O equilibrium bond length and O—N—C bond angle of NMMO molecule, the chemical structure of NMMO aqueous solution remains basically unchanged in the presence of titanium dioxide, carbon black, pigment red and indoanthraquinone. Nevertheless the equilibrium bond length of N—O bond obviously becomes longer in the presence of Fe2O3 and copper (II) phthalocyanine, predicting the risk of chemical bond breakage, which is consistent with the existing experimental results. It indicates that molecular simulation method can quickly predict the potential influence of pigments on the stability of NMMO.

      Preparation of self-dispersing Phthalocyanine Blue 15:3 particles and its application in spun-dyed viscose fiber
      SONG Weiguang, WANG Dong, DU Changsen, LIANG Dong, FU Shaohai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  8-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210608507
      Abstract ( 47 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2900KB) ( 300 )   Save
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      Aiming at short storage time and high transportation cost of the color paste for spun-dyed viscose fibers, the self-dispersing Phthalocyanine Blue 15:3 pigment powder were prepared by the spray drying method. The effects of the spray drying parameters including air inlet temperature, feeding rate, pressure and air flow rate on the properties of self-dispersing pigment were discussed. In addition, transmission electron microscope (TEM) and scanning electron microscope (SEM) were employed to study the apparent morphology, and the dispersion state of self-dispersing pigments in viscose fiber was investigated. The results show that when the inlet air temperature is 165 ℃, the feeding rate is 10 mL/min, the pressure is 0.2 MPa, and the air flow rate is 2.95 m3/min, particle size of the self-dispersing Phthalocyanine Blue 15:3 pigment powder is 171 nm, and the water contact angle is 13°. The pigments show excellent self-dispersing properties, and the centrifugal, acid and alkali resistance, heat resistance and salt resistance stability are all above 80%. The self-dispersing Phthalocyanine Blue 15:3 deminstrates a good interface compatibility with the viscose spinning solution and is homogeneously dispersed in the spun-dyed viscose fiber. The color fastness against rubbing and washing reach grade 4.

      Structure and properties of polyester/carbon black system prepared by in-situ continuous polymerization
      QIU Zhicheng, LI Xin, LI Zhiyong, WANG Ying, JIN Jian, WU Shufang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  15-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210701107
      Abstract ( 47 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1678KB) ( 195 )   Save
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      In order to develop dope-dyed polyester fiber with high blackness and fine denier, polyester (PET)/carbon black system with carbon black content of 2% to 3% was prepared by in-situ continuous polymerization. The rheology behavior, crystallization behavior and carbon black dispersion morphology of the in-situ polymerized PET/carbon black system were characterized, and polymerized PET/carbon black filaments were prepared by high speed spinning. The results show that carbon black is uniformly dispersed in polyester matrix in the form of particle clusters less than 1 μm in diameter. The rheological behavior of the in-situ polymerized PET/carbon black with low carbon black content is similar to that of PET. When the carbon black content reaches 3%, the apparent viscosity of in-situ polymerized PET/carbon black melt decreases rapidly with the increase of shear rate. During melt crystallization of the polymerized PET/carbon black, carbon black, as a high efficient heterogeneous nucleating agent, significantly speeds up the crystallization rate of polyester, at the same time, and the good interaction between polyester and carbon black leads to more crystallization defects. These results lead to the double melting peaks of the polymerized PET/carbon black system, and the crystallinity and the peak temperature of the melting peak of polymerized PET/carbon black are lower than that of PET, which is obviously different from that of PET/carbon black prepared by masterbatch method. Due to the good dispersion of carbon black, the polymerized PET/carbon black with 3% carbon black content can be successfully spun into filaments, with the monofilament size 0.52 dtex and breaking strength higher than 3.3 cN/dtex.

      Preparation and characterization of sepia melanin alginate fiber
      TIAN Xing, SHA Yuan, WANG Bingbing, XIA Yanzhi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  22-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210605305
      Abstract ( 38 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2100KB) ( 311 )   Save
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      In order to expand the use of natural pigments in the dope-dyed alginate fiber, dope dyeing spinning solution and alginate fiber were prepared using sepia melanin(ME) as colorant and sodium alginate(SA)dilute solution organic grind auxiliary agent and dispersant. The performance of the spinning fluid was characterized by the infrared spectrometer, the rheometer and the transmission electron microscope. The mography of the fibers was observed by scanning electron microscope, and the ultraviolet shielding properties of the fibers was measured. The results show that ME and the sodium alginate have good compatibility.The agglomeration of ME nanoparticles is eliminated by grinding and diluting sodium alginate, achieving the stable dispersion of ME. The morphology of alginate fibers is not affected by ME. The dope-dyed alginate fiber containing 3% ME achieves more than 75% average ultraviolet light shielding, and the shielding of high-energy short-wave ultraviolet light reaches 85%.

      Fiber Materials
      Analysis on factors influencing solution of Lyocell fiber spinning pulp
      PAN Yile, QIAN Liying, XU Jigang, HE Beihai, LI Junrong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  27-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201201207
      Abstract ( 555 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (5563KB) ( 159 )   Save
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      In order to explore the factors affecting the solubility of Lyocell fiber spinning pulp, four different dissolving pulps were analyzed to study the influence of their chemical composition, crystallinity, degree of polymerization and fiber morphology on the solubility of dissolving pulp in N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO). The results showed that the dissolution of pulp experienced the suspension stage, swelling stage and dissolution stage. The higher the proportion of non-uniform swelling of fibers in the swelling stage, the longer the dissolution time. When the pulp quality meets the raw material standard for preparing Lyocell fiber, the trace lignin on the fiber surface plays a major role in dissolving the pulp. Lignin is deposited on the surface of the fiber through adsorption, and is combined with cellulose through hydrogen bonds to weaken fiber swelling. At the same time, hydrophobic lignin hindered the penetration of NMMO into the fiber and increased the dissolution time.

      Preparation and properties of viscose fibers modified with star-shaped halogen-free flame retardants
      HE Ju, LIU Xiaohui, SU Xiaowei, LIN Shenggen, REN Yuanlin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  34-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201205207
      Abstract ( 268 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (2718KB) ( 78 )   Save
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      Aiming at the potential safety hazard caused by the flammability of viscose fibers, phosphonitrilic chloride trimer containing a ring structure was selected as a functional monomer to design a star-shaped halogen-free flame retardant that combines phosphorus, nitrogen, silicon ternary flame retardant elements. The flame retardant was added to the viscose, and then the flame retardant modified viscose fibers was prepared through wetting spinning. The structures and properties of the modified viscose fibers were characterized by means of Fourier infrared spectroscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analyzer, and thermogravimetric-mass spectrometry system. The results show that the flame retardancy of the modified viscose fibers was improved while the fibers maintaining the durability. In nitrogen atmosphere, its char residue rate at 800 ℃ increased from 12.5% to 31.2% compared with the unmodified viscose fibers. During the combustion process of the modified fibers, the release of combustible gas was significantly reduced and abundant expanded carbon layer was produced. The flame retardant operated in condensed phase and gas phase.

      Structure and properties of four different kinds of domestic cocoon varieties
      XUE Rujing, MO Xiaoxuan, LIU Fujuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  41-46.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201207506
      Abstract ( 1264 )   HTML ( 28 )   PDF (3658KB) ( 141 )   Save
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      In order to develop and design new functional textiles, multilayer morphology, chemical structure, crystalline structure, mechanical properties and thermal conductivity of four varieties of different silkworm cocoons walls were characterized by scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffractometer, universal material testing machine and temperature and humidity tester, respectively. Theoretical analysis on the multilayer structure was conducted and the design principle of thermal protection products was studied and established. Research results show that all the four varieties of cocoon walls have unique multilayer porous structure, and the diameter of the fibers first increase and then decrease from the outer layer to the inner layer. Although the thickness and size are different, the four varieties of silkworm cocoon walls have good thermal buffering properties. In general, the tiger head cocoon wall has the best heat resistance, and the zebra cocoon wall (green) has the best thermal conductivity. When designing the multilayer structure of thermal protection products, the thermal insulation effect will be greatly improved by appropriately increasing the number of layers of thermal protection products under cost permission.

      Preparation and properties of polytetrafluoroethylene/phenylene sulfide needled felt modified by aramid nanofiber
      LIU Qiangfei, WU Shaohua, YANG Jizhen, ZHOU Rong, DONG Xianglin, SONG Chuanbo, SHEN Zhaoxu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  47-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201103205
      Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (4729KB) ( 81 )   Save
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      Novel aramid nanofiber dispersion with different mass fractions was utilized to coat and process traditional high temperature polytetrafluoroethylene/phenylene(PTFE/PPS) needle-punched filter felts to improve their filtration efficiency. The micro-structure, element composition, thermalstability, mechanical properties, pore size distribution, air permeability as well as filtration properties of as-prepared composite filter materials (PTFE/PPS/ANF) were systemically explored and investigated. The results showed that the as-processed needle-punched felts exhibit a micro-nano structure when the aramid nanofiber dispersion was poured onto the needle-punched felts. It was found that the thermal stability and mechanical properties of as-obtained micro-nano composite felts were comparable to the untreated needle-punched felts. Most importantly, the micro-nano composite felts PTFE/PPS/ANF presented obviously enhanced filtration efficiency but slightly increased filtration resistance in comparison with the untreated felts. For instance, the filtration efficiency of the micro-nano composite felts is increased by 37.9% when the particulate maters with the diameter of 1.25 μm were utilized for filtration test. This study demonstrated that the nano-micro structure of composite felts played a major role in the improvement of filtration efficiency, and novel high temperature filter felts with high efficiency and low resistance were successfully achieved.

      Preparation and mechanical properties of cementitious composites reinforced by modified polyvinyl alcohol fiber
      WEI Fayun, YANG Fan, WANG Hailou, YU Bin, ZOU Xueshu, ZHANG Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  53-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201104208
      Abstract ( 377 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4048KB) ( 69 )   Save
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      In order to improve the interface bonding strength between polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)fiber and cement, silica nanoparticles (SiO2 NPs) were grafted on the surface of PVA fiber to prepare modified PVA fiber reinforced cementitious composites (PVA-FRCC). The bending strength of PVA-FRCC was evaluated by three-point bending test, and the influences of fiber arrangement direction and layer number on the bending strength were studied. The results show that the bending strength of PVA-FRCC with cross arrangement is better than that of longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The bending strength of composite reinforced by modified PVA fiber is higher than that with unmodified fiber. The bending strength of modified PVA-FRCC is the best when the number of fiber layers is 3. In the finite element analysis of bending process, when the failure occurs, the transverse fibers in PVA-FRCC present an obvious bridging function. Meanwhile, the longitudinal fibers in the cross-arranged PVA-FRCC could bear a low load while the transverse arranged fibers bear the main load and show no interface damage after failure.

      Textile Engineering
      Measurement method of yarn torque using a free rotor
      HONG Yan, SHEN Xiaolin, TIAN Ye, WU Sanbao, YANG Jin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  61-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200907006
      Abstract ( 305 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1480KB) ( 86 )   Save
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      In order to measure accurately the torque of the yarn to match the yarn steaming standard, and to reduce the probability of skewed weft in fabrics due to the residual torque of the yarn, a method was proposed to detect the torque of yarn with the use of a free rotor as the core. Firstly, the free rotor was connected to the end of the yarn before starting to rotate smoothly under the action of electromagnetic damping. The photoelectric sensor was placed to scan the rotating status and to transmit the captured photoelectric signal to the computer, for studying the relationship between the rotor's rotation angle and time to obtain the angular acceleration versus time curve by means of the second order of differentiation using Origin. Upon the availability of the initial angular acceleration of the rotor from the curve, and the torque of the test yarn can be quickly and efficiently obtained by multiplying the initial angular acceleration and the rotor's rotational inertia. The experimental results show that the method can accurately measure the torque of various yarns with small relative error, which not only has a broad application prospect in today's textile production testing, but also provides a new way of thinking in the field of yarn torque research.

      Comparative research on color simulation optimization of jacquard fabric based on modularized compound full-color structure
      ZHANG Aidan, GUO Zhenni, WANG Yangzi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  67-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201101308
      Abstract ( 242 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (8106KB) ( 26 )   Save
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      In order to improve the color matching in jacquard fabrics for given color images, a modular design method of combining the full-color structure was proposed in this research. Based on the compound full-color structure composed of two basic weaves, combinations were made with two different groups of supplementary weave modules to form the variable full-color structure to meet the design needs of jacquard fabrics that require odd groups of color wefts. Using 4 green print images as color simulation objects, two modularized compound full-color structure were used, and the jacquard fabric samples were produced in conjunction with five sets of color wefts. By comparing the color difference between the color measurement data of the printed image and the fabric samples, it was found that the red-green color difference of the two groups of fabric samples in the green area of the image were reduced by 44.22% and 37.78% respectively, while the total color difference decreased by 16% and 10.55% respectively. All these indicates that the color matching of the jacquard fabrics were significantly improved.

      Sound insulation properties of honeycomb sandwich structure composite for high-speed train floors
      HU Qiaole, BIAN Guofeng, QIU Yiping, WEI Yi, XU Zhenzhen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  75-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210107009
      Abstract ( 384 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (3187KB) ( 124 )   Save
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      In order to meet the lightweight and sound insulation requirements of bullet trains and automobiles, honeycomb sandwich composite structure made from various fibers were created. The influence of honeycomb core specifications (density and side length), panel materials (carbon fiber, glass fiber, polyphenylene sulfide (PPS)) and glass microbeads modification on sound insulation performance was analyzed by hot pressing method and four-sensor impedance tube method. The results show that the sound insulation performance is improved with the increase of the density of the honeycomb core, but the side length of the honeycomb core has little effect on the sound insulation. In the region of 100-2500 Hz, the honeycomb sandwich panel with PPS as inner layer, carbon fiber as outer layer and glass beads content of 5% shows the best sound insulation, with an average improvement of 5-8 dB. Compared with the standard aluminum honeycomb sandwich panel used for the current 350 km/h motor vehicle, the aramid honeycomb panel not only exhibits similar sound insulation performance, but also can achieve about 30% weight reduction. It was concluded that the aramid honeycomb sandwich panel has the application potential for replacing the standard aluminum honeycomb as a new generation of sound insulation floor for bullet trains.

      High-temperature sealing performance of braided heat-sealed components
      LIU Junli, XU Zhigao, ZHANG Feng, TIAN Gan, YANG Zhengwei, WANG Yu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  84-91.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210203808
      Abstract ( 262 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (3688KB) ( 143 )   Save
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      In order to study the sealing performance of braided heat-sealing components directly applied to high-temperature environments, two types of sealing components are selected: three-dimensional double-strand braided rope and double-layer three-strand braided spring tube. Based on the Kozeny-Carman equation of porous media, two sealing leakage models of the sealing components are established. The high-temperature sealing performance was tested separately by high-temperature sealing test, and the leakage of two high-temperature sealing components under different pressure differences and different working conditions and temperatures were obtained, which verified the validity of the model. The research results show that the leakage of the sealing components of the three-dimensional double-strand braided rope and the double-layer three-stranded spring tube gradually increases with the continuous increase of the pressure difference, and gradually decreases with the increase of the temperature. Under the same working conditions, the leakage of the double-layer three-strand braided spring tube seal assembly is less than that of the three-dimensional double-strand braided rope. The research results can provide a reference for the selection of sealing structures suitable for high-temperature environments.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Method to detect virulence gene rfbE of Escherichia coli O157:H7 in textiles
      LI Ke, ZHANG Zihong, YU Jianying, LIAN Sumei, DING Youchao, XIE Tangtang, FU Kejie, GUO Huiqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  92-98.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201101207
      Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1880KB) ( 175 )   Save
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      In order to establish a sensitive, specific, rapid and efficient method to evaluate E. coli O157:H7 in textiles, the conservative rfb E sequence of E. coli O157:H7 was screened for the design of PCR specific primers and fluorescent double labeled probes. Combined with immunomagnetic beads technology, a new technology was developed for quick and efficient isolation of E. coli O157:H7 under the condition of low concentration and non-culturable target bacteria. A real-time fluorescent quantitative PCR method was developed, and the detection limit could reach 8 CFU/g. 30 positive samples were identified using this method, and the results were 100% consistent with the results from using the traditional methods. The results show that the new method is stable, rapid and sensitive in identifying E. coli O157:H7 in textiles.

      Degradation kinetics and mechanism of Direct Blue 15 in photoactivated potassium persulfate system
      HU Qian, YANG Hai, LI Xin, CHEN Pinting, CHEN Zhen, YI Bing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  99-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201004308
      Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (2514KB) ( 110 )   Save
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      In order to explore the degradation feasibility of bisazo dye Direct Blue 15 (DB15) and its transformation mechanism under attack of reactive oxygen species (ROSs), the degradation kinetics and mechanism of DB15 was studied in UV/K2S2O8 system. The results show that the degradation of the bisazo dye DB15 in the UV/K2S2O8 system conforms to pseudo-first-order kinetics, with a kinetic constant rate of 0.010 7 min-1. Different K2S2O8 concentration, initial substrate concentration and reaction temperature have significant effects on its degradation kinetics. Finally, the degradation intermediates of DB15 were identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Combined with the frontier electron densities (FEDs) of DB15, the positions of N11, N24, N41, N42, and C28 are likely to be attacked or occurred the single electron transfer under the attack of $SO_4^-$·, ·OH and so on, which resulted in the cleavage of N=N and C—N bonds and further hydroxylation and mineralization of the degradation intermediates under the attack of the ROSs.

      Flame retardant finishing of cotton fabric with tri-aminopropyl triethoxysilane
      LIU Shuping, LI Liang, LIU Rangtong, HU Zedong, GENG Changjun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  107-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200810608
      Abstract ( 286 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1860KB) ( 83 )   Save
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      In order to endow cotton fabrics with flame resistance and washability, the flame retardant finishing using tri-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES), ammonium polyphosphate and chitosan was carried out by self-assembly method. The effects of APTES mass fraction on the flame resistance, washability, comfort, physical and mechanical properties of cotton fabrics were analyzed.These results indicate that, with APTES mass fraction increasing,the heat release behavior of finished fabrics gradually eases during the combustion process and the limiting oxygen index increases.When the APTES mass fraction is 13%, the after flame time and afterg low time of vertical combustion reduce to 5.23 s and 2.21 s from 8.15 s and 20.32 s of untreated fabric, respectively. Meanwhile, the residual carbon amount increases to 14.7% from 5.6% of untreated fabric. Although the flame retardant property of cotton fabric decreases after washing treatment, it is still better than that of the untreated fabric.

      Preparation and properties of hydrophobic conductive polypyrrole coating fabrics
      CHEN Ying, FANG Haoxia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  115-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201005706
      Abstract ( 542 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2506KB) ( 112 )   Save
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      The hydrophobic conductive polypyrrole(PPy) was synthesized on the surface of contton fabrics to achieve functions, such as conductivity and hydrophobicity, which were regulated by changing the types of dopants with different low surface energy. Morphology, contact angle, conductivity and K/S value were characterized accordingly. Experimental results show that the PPy coated cotton fabrics using sodium lignosulphonate (LGS) as template with 0.025 mol/L perfluorinated octyl sulfonic acid potassium (KPFOS) have the best hydrophobicity, and reaching the superhydrophobic state. PPy treated cotton fabrics using anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid sodium salt (AQS) as the soft template with 0.01 mol/L dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid (DBSA) doped polypyrrole composites demonstrate best conductivity. The better comprehensive behaviors is achieved for the fabric using AQS and 0.01 mol/L DBSA dopant with the contact angle of 131.2°and conductivity of 61.4 S/cm. Through micromorphology control of the template and doping of the alkyl chain or perfluorinated alkyl chain, PPy coated cotton fabrics with good electrical conductivity and hydrophobic properties can be prepared, but their regulation mechanisms of doping still require further study.

      Effect of electro-spraying treatment on anti-pilling performance of wool fabrics
      ZHOU Huiling, ZHU Lisha, WU Xiongying, DING Xuemei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  120-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201003506
      Abstract ( 309 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (3542KB) ( 82 )   Save
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      Wool fabrics are prone to fuzzing and pilling when they are worn by external forces. To deal with this problem, the electro-spraying technique capable of producing monodisperse micro liquid particles was used to treat wool fabrics. Commonly used finishing agents hydrogen peroxide and chitosan solution were employed in the experiments to explore the effects of finishing agent type, solution concentration and treatment time on anti-pilling performance of wool fabrics, and the morphological changes of the wool fabrics and fiber surfaces after electro-atomization finishing were observed by scanning electron microscope. The results show that the particles produced by electro-spraying chitosan solution encapsulates the surface of the wool fiber, and the anti-pilling result is increased by more than 1 level. After electro-spraying of hydrogen peroxide solution, a certain destructive effect was observed on the surface scales of the wool fiber, and the anti-pilling grade is increased by more than 0.5 level. Joint electro-spraying hydrogen peroxide and chitosan solution treatment to the wool fabrics for a long time (e.g. 240min) demonstrates the best anti-pilling effect.

      Electrical heating properties of fabrics coated by reduced graphene oxide
      YU Rufang, HONG Xinghua, ZHU Chengyan, JIN Zimin, WAN Junmin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  126-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201101506
      Abstract ( 326 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2873KB) ( 120 )   Save
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      In order to study the electrical heating properties of wearable fabrics and the influence of washing on their properties, a reduced graphene oxide (RGO) coated fabric heater was prepared through a simple, safe and industrial-scale liquid phase immersion deposition method that by depositing RGO on polyester knitted fabrics and for reduction in situ. The morphology and chemical structure of RGO coated polyester fabric were characterized by scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectrometer. The electrical conductivity, mechanical and electric heating properties of RGO coated polyester fabrics were also measured. The results show that the electrical conductivity of the RGO coated polyester fabric is 430.94 mS/cm. In addition, the RGO coated polyester fabric can reach a stable-state temperature of 65.58 ℃ under a voltage of 10 V, and the maximum heating rate of 3.14 ℃/s. After two cycles of washing, the RGO coated polyester fabric can reach 43 ℃ under 10 V applied voltage. This paper shows that the RGO coated polyester fabric has remarkable electrical heating properties with great application potentials in medical electrothermal, athletic rehabilitation and other fields.

      Apparel Engineering
      Influence and mechanism of clothing color illusion on figure perception
      LU Cheng, MAO Jiaying, SHEN Jiayi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  132-138.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201100307
      Abstract ( 584 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1882KB) ( 282 )   Save
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      In order to improve the combination effect of clothing and human body by using visual illusion, a group of experiments were carried out on color saturation and lightness under various hue conditions to measure consumers' arousal, attention, figure perception and purchase intention under different conditions. Analysis of variance and regression analysis were used to discuss the influence of color saturation and lightness on figure perception, as well as the mediating effects of arousal and attention. The results show that the figure perception of high color saturation clothing is fatter than that of low saturation clothing, and the figure perception of high brightness clothing is fatter than that of low brightness clothing. However, the these former two effects have no significant difference on consumers' purchase intention, and the arousal and attention played a mediating role in the influence of saturation on figure perception. Specifically, high color saturation would lead to high arousal level and attract more attention, thus resulting in a fatter figure perception. However, this mediating effect was only significant for the solid color clothing, not for striped clothing.

      Cooling capacity of personal ventilation systems in different environments
      WU Guoshan, LIU Heqing, WU Shixian, YOU Bo, SONG Xiaopeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  139-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200908507
      Abstract ( 311 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2090KB) ( 80 )   Save
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      In different thermal environment and human metabolic rate, the cooling capacity of personal ventilation system (PVS) is unclear. According to the relationship between skin temperature and metabolic rate, rectal temperature and environmental parameters, the calculation model of cooling capacity was established based on the method of enthalpy difference between the inlet and outlet air of PVS. The cooling capacity of PVS were calculated when the temperature was 30-40 ℃, the humidity was 0-100% and the air flow is 10-40 m3/h, the metabolic rate were 210 W/m2 (heavy labor) and 145 W/m2 (moderate labor) respectively. According to the calculation results, the contour maps of cooling capacity of PVS under different metabolic rate and thermal environment were drawn. It was found that the higher the ambient temperature and the humidity was, and the smaller the cooling capacity was. In the high temperature and humidity environment, the cooling capacity of PVS may become zero or negative. The air flow only affects the absolute value of cooling capacity. The larger the air flow was, the larger the absolute value of cooling capacity was. When the environmental parameters and ventilation were constant, the higher the metabolic rate of the human body, the greater the cooling capacity of PVS. When the metabolic rate of the human body and environmental parameters are known, the cooling capacity of PVS can be calculated according to this method.

      Expression and realization of human body model based on learning model
      JI Yong, JIANG Gaoming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  146-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200802605
      Abstract ( 280 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1153KB) ( 83 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of human body reconstruction with complex structure, this paper proposes a representation method of human body model based on learning model. The linear model of human body adopts the mesh vertex algorithm to correct the shape of human body. According to the standard method of creating human body mesh, the shape of human body model is formed by the average template represented by vector. By learning the regression matrix of different human body shapes, the linear model of human body is segmented and the depth is estimated. The spatial relationship of human body model is implicitly established, and the joint position in the linear model of human body is estimated, so that the trunk expression of human body model is more natural and clear. The results show that the human model expression algorithm based on learning model is reliable, and the output of the model is more accurate. The model can achieve efficient human model reconstruction and optimization, and provide technical basis and theoretical reference for the effective expression of human model.

      Optimization of components screening for hanging production line in suit mass customization
      XIE Ziang, DU Jinsong, YU Yayun, CHEN Qingting, FEI Zhonghua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  150-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201103507
      Abstract ( 255 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (2852KB) ( 80 )   Save
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      In order to solve the asynchronous production of each component of suit customization orders, and reduce the backlogs in screening area before assembly in cellular manufacturing mode of suit mass customization, an order sequencing model was established based on cellular manufacturing line, and the genetic algorithm was designed to optimize the order sequence, reduce the matching operations and to shorten the life cycle of customized orders. Then, simulations were conduct based on the real enterprise data including the 48 suit styles, 200 pieces orders, 4 hanging production lines, 36 workstations and the layout of the workshop. The result shows that the orders completion time of ordinary rule is 26 784 s and the optimization rule is 25 134 s, the efficiency improves 6.2%. The backlogs in store area are further improved by introducing the line scheduling methods: the backlogs is reduced from 18 to 9 pieces, completion time is reduced from 25 134 s to 23 035 s, the average movement of components in store area is reduced form 2.89 to 1.925.

      Clothing style identification based on improved edge detection algorithm
      TUO Wu, WANG Xiaoyu, GAO Yakun, YU Yuanyuan, HAO Xiaoxiao, LIU Yongliang, GUO Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  157-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201205006
      Abstract ( 388 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (2927KB) ( 151 )   Save
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      In order to quickly identify clothing styles and improve production efficiency, an improved edge extraction algorithm was designed to solve the problem that the existing traditional edge detection algorithm was difficult to accurately extract contour feature sequence. By defining a new optimization convolution kernels, the use of traditional edge detection algorithm based on clothing contours of the training sample, will the convolution convolution kernels and target matrix are new outer contour, a new contour sequence of Fourier descriptor as a feature vector, to increase the use of BP neural network model to complete the design of automatic classification and recognition. In order to verify the effectiveness of the improved method, a sample library containing 500 non-repeated clothing images of four categories of clothing was established. 281 samples were selected as training samples and the remaining 219 samples were tested. The recognition accuracy of the test was as low as 93.48% and as high as 100%. It is of reference significance to the intelligent production of clothing.

      Research on integration and transformation of apparel sales channels under new retailing concept
      HAN Shuguang, CHEN Shuting, HU Jueliang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  163-171.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105209
      Abstract ( 357 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (4389KB) ( 124 )   Save
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      In order to compare the new retailing model and the traditional duel-channel model, the theoretical basis for the transformation of the new retail model of traditional clothing companies were introduced. The similarities and differences between the new retail model and the traditional dual-channel model were explored, and the utility function of clothing consumers under dual-channel and new retail modes was designed based on utility theory combined with clothing characteristics. The corresponding clothing consumer demand and clothing retailer profit model were quantitatively described. Through numerical examples, the effects of online trust, offline experience service levels, and "buy online, pick upin store"(BOPS) inconvenience on channel integration and transformation, and the impact of apparel retailers' total profits were studied. The research shows that when the effects of online trust reaches a certain threshold, it is more advantageous for apparel companies in the dual-channel mode to implement the same price strategy online and offline. Under the new retail mode, BOPS inconvenience has the greatest impact on apparel retailers' profits, and the effects of online trust impacts on the profits of clothing retailers is minimal. The implementation of the new retail model has the potential to greatly increase the profits of clothing retailers.

      Comprehensive Review
      Progress in preparation and application of aromatic polyamide separation membrane
      LAI Xing, WANG Chun, XIAO Changfa, WANG Liming, XIN Binjie
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  172-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201203808
      Abstract ( 543 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (2219KB) ( 233 )   Save
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      In order to better understand the research status of aromatic polyamide separation membrane materials which can be used in special separation field, this paper reviewed the research progress of porous membrane materials with aromatic polyamide as membrane-forming polymer at home and abroad in recent years, and reviewed the preparation methods and characteristics of aromatic polyamide porous membrane at present stage. In addition, it was analyzed that the application of aromatic polyamide porous membrane is suitable for wastewater treatment, air filtration, lithium ion battery separator and fiber reinforced membrane. Finally, the shortcomings of the porous membrane of aromatic polyamide were spelt out, and the application prospect and development direction of the porous membrane of aromatic polyamide were prospected, so as to provide reference for the realization of low energy consumption, high efficiency preparation and high value utilization of aromatic polyamide porous membrane.

      Research progress of polymer embolic microspheres
      LI Feng, YANG Jiahao, LAI Gengchang, WANG Jiannan, XU Jianmei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  180-189.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702810
      Abstract ( 744 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (1502KB) ( 319 )   Save
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      In order to promote the embolic polymer microspheres towards the direction of a higher drug-loading rate, controlled drug release, functionalization. Mechanism of embolic microspheres were reviewed, as well as the application of the polymer such as chitosan and alginate in the drug microspheres preparation. The embolic microsphere preparation methods such as emulsification cross-linking method, and ionic gelation method were introduced, as well as the different preparation characteristics of drug loaded microspheres for water-soluble and lipid-soluble drugs. Finally it is pointed out that the drug loading rate of the microspheres can be improved by selecting suitable carrier materials or multiple composite materials, so that the drug can be released in a controlled manner; suitable preparation methods of microspheres were selected to achieve high drug loading rate according to the characteristics of the loaded drugs; the future studies on embolic microspheres should be developed in the direction of multifunctionalization, such as microspheres with load targeted chemotherapy drugs, microspheres with targeting properties, microspheres that alleviate embolic pain or cancer pain, microspheres with photothermal effect, microspheres with controllable degradation rate, etc., providing reference and support for promoting the research and application of embolic microspheres in the treatment of tumors.

      Research progress in heat transfer mechanism of firefighter protective clothing under low-level radiant heat exposures
      ZHANG Wenhuan, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(10):  190-198.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200808109
      Abstract ( 331 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1083KB) ( 295 )   Save
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      In order to effectively achieve the control of the thermal damage to the firefighting workers in low heat radiative environment, the complex heat exchange mechanism in the firefighting clothing system, were reviewed to guide product design and development. Based on the heat transfer theory of fire-fighting clothing system, the current research progress was reviewed and discussed from four perspectives, including the basic performance of fire-fighting clothing fabrics and the style of clothing, the morphology and activity of the human body, the characteristics of radiant heat sources, and the coupling effect of heat and moisture. Based on the analysis of the difficulties and bottlenecks in the previous research, the research directions worth exploring for the future were refined, which are the distribution of inhomogeneous air layers and the upgrading of simulation methods, the air flow and velocity field formed by unsteady human motion and environmental wind as well as the relationship between the air flow and heat flow, expanding the connotation of clothing heat transfer mechanism research by coupling human thermo-regulational model.