Table of Content

15 September 2021, Volume 42 Issue 09

Previous Issue    Next Issue

Invited Column:Intelligent fiber and products

Electroactive fibrous materials for intelligent wearable textiles

FANG Jian, REN Song, ZHANG Chuanxiong, CHEN Qian, XIA Guangbo, GE Can

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  1-9.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506809

Abstract ( 2077 )   HTML ( 347 )   PDF (6273KB) ( 1384 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

To foster the development of smart fibrous materials and intelligent wearable textiles, a detailed overview on electroactive fibrous materials for intelligent wearable textiles was carried in this study. This paper summarized the state-of-the-art of fiber-based and fabric-based intelligent wearable textiles in recent years. Definitions, common preparation methods, development process, and the latest research progress in electroactive fibers were examined and their properties and application fields were systematically classified and discussed from the perspectives of strain sensing, electrochromic, intelligent temperature regulation, energy harvesting and storage, and so on. Future development and problems hindering the use of electroactive fibrous materials in intelligent wearable textiles were highlighted. The future development direction was pointed out for theoretical and technical references in the hope to promote the wide range of applications of electroactive fibrous materials in future intelligent wearable textiles.

Application progress of two-dimensional transitional metal carbon/nitrogen compound composite in field of intelligent wearable textiles

RONG Kai, FAN Wei, WANG Qi, ZHANG Cong, YU Yang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  10-16.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210203507

Abstract ( 459 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (4952KB) ( 332 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In view of the difficulty of traditional fibers in meeting the demand of current intelligent wearable devices, most existing composite fibers do not offer the appropriate electrical conductivity, mechanical properties, or energy storage capacity, this paper reviews the research progress in new two-dimensional transitional metal carbon/nitrogen compound (MXene) composite fibers used for intelligent wearables. Various preparation methods of MXene composite fibers (coating, double roll, electrospinning and wet spinning) were introduced, and the advantages as well as disadvantages of each method were analyzed. The applications of MXene composite fibers in electromagnetic shielding, supercapacitors, flexible sensors and other fields were systematically summarized. This paper also prospected the future development of MXene fibers in the field of intelligent wearable devices, providing new ideas for the research new generation of composite fibers with high electrical conductivity, excellent mechanical properties and high energy storage.

Thermo-sensitive hydrophilic-hydrophobic transition and moisture permeability of poly-N-isopropylacrylamide/polyurethane gradient composite membrane

YANG Qun, LIANG Qi, WANG Liming, DAI Zhengwei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  17-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210201708

Abstract ( 456 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (13107KB) ( 318 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

To improve the temperature-sensitivity and moisture permeability of intelligent waterproof and moisture permeable membrane, poly-N-isopropylacrylamide (PNIPAM) was coated on hierarchical pore polyurethane (PU) membranes and PNIPAM/PU gradient composite membranes were prepared by adjusting the mass fraction of PNIPAM. Structure, thermo-sensitive hydrophilic-hydrophobic and thermo-sensitive moisture permeability were investigated. The results show that the construction of PNIPAM does not change the hierarchical pore structure. It has thermo-sensitive hydrophilic-hydrophobic transition properties, exhibiting hydrophilicity when temperature below the transition temperature (30 ℃), and hydrophobicity when temperature above this temperature. Meanwhile, the introduction of PNIPAM improves thermo-sensitive moisture permeability, from 4 843.4 g/(m²·24 h) of PU to 6 398.3 g/(m²·24 h) of PNIPAM/PU gradient composite membrane at 50 ℃ when mass fraction of PNIPAM is 6%. It was also found that the higher the content of PNIPAM, the more significant decrease in swelling property with the temperature increase.

Radiative cooling nanofiber medical fabrics and sensor system integration

WU Qinxin, HOU Chengyi, LI Yaogang, ZHANG Qinghong, QIN Zongyi, WANG Hongzhi

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  24-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210300607

Abstract ( 706 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (8754KB) ( 275 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Traditional medical protective clothing offers limited functions and lacks of wear comfort. Accordingly, this research focused on the preparation of radiative cooling silicon dioxide/poly(1,1-difluoroethylene) nanofibers through electrospinning, and the making of nonwoven fabrics using hot pressing to obtain a new protective clothing fabrics (SiO₂/PVDF-NWF). The microstructure and infrared transmittance of SiO₂/PVDF nanofibers were measure and characterized, and the wearing comfort, protection performance, and radiative cooling effect of the as-obtained SiO₂/PVDF-NWF were tested. The results show that with 15% PVDF spinning solution, optimal infrared transmittance of SiO₂/PVDF nanofibers is achieved when the SiO₂ particle size is 2 μm and the mass ratio of SiO₂/PVDF is 0.15. The temperature inside clothes was found 2 ℃ lower than that in the traditional protective clothing and the relative humidity was reduced by 5% after replacing part of the fabric on the traditional protective clothing with SiO₂/PVDF-NWF. In addition, the multifunctional protective system is constructed by integrating sensors for blood oxygen, temperature, humidity and positioning on the radiative cooling protective clothing fabrics, offerring a broad application prospect for medical applications.

Research progress in wearable plantar pressure monitoring system

CHEN Zujiao, ZHANG Rui, ZHUO Wenwen, ZHANG Longlin, ZHOU Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  31-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200806008

Abstract ( 741 )   HTML ( 70 )   PDF (7728KB) ( 429 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the promotion of wearable plantar pressure monitoring techniques, physiological structure of human foot, source of plantar pressure and walking frequency were introduced. According to the current research status of wearable plantar pressure monitoring systems, materials and working principles of integrative pressure monitoring socks based on fabric sensor were reviewed, and information transfer module and working principles of composite pressure monitoring shoes based on flexible electronic sensor were also scrutinized. The selection principle of feature points used in wearable plantar pressure monitoring systems and its use for detecting falls, foot disease diagnosis and plantar pressure database establishment were described. The problems were pointed out in poor material performance and short wireless transmission distance in the industrialization process, based on which an application proposal with improved performance based on biomechanics, textile materials and electronic communication was put forward for future development.

Fiber Materials

Jet formation mechanism and film forming characteristics of multi-curved surface sprayer for electrospinning

QUAN Zhenzhen, WANG Yihan, ZU Yao, QIN Xiaohong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  39-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201201707

Abstract ( 280 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (7830KB) ( 88 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to achieve batch preparation of sub-micro fibers, a new type of multi-curved surface sprayer was studied. ANSYS Maxwell 3D software was used to simulate the electric field intensity distribution of multi-curved surface sprayer, the theoretical formula about free surface jet formation of curved surface was explored, polyacrylonitrile (PAN) microfiber membranes with different mass fractions were prepared by multi-curved surface sprayer, and their morphologies and yields were characterized using electron microscope and other instruments. The results show that the electric field intensity on the top of the sprayer is the largest, which is prone to wave instability and produce multiple jets. The sub-micro fibers obtained by the electrospinning device are smooth without beads, the average diameter increases with the increase of PAN concentration, and the yield is 103 times higher than that of the traditional single needle device.

Preparation of MoS₂/polyurethane composite fibrous membranes and their photothermal conversion properties

CAO Yuanming, ZHENG Mi, LI Yifei, ZHAI Wangyi, LI Liyan, CHANG Zhuningzi, ZHENG Min

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  46-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305607

Abstract ( 502 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (5411KB) ( 139 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

To prepare textile materials with high photothermal conversion efficiency, three-dimensional MoS₂ nanoparticles with strong near-infrared absorption capacity were prepared by hydrothermal synthesis. MoS₂ nanoparticles were added to polyurethane (PU) spinning solution, and MoS₂/PU composite photothermal fibrous membranes was prepared by electrospinning. The structure and properties of MoS₂ nanoparticles and MoS₂/PU composite fibrous membranes were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometer powder diffraction and fourier transform infrared spectrometer. The results show that after 0.8 W/cm² near-infrared light irradiation for 1 min, the temperature of MoS₂/PU composite fibrous membranes rises by 10.48 ℃, and the photothermal conversion efficiency was increased up to 31.07%. After a long time of repeated temperature rises and falls, the thermal effect did not decay. At the same time, the temperature rose 31% higher than the black PU fibrous membranes under the sunlight irradiation for 5 min. After high temperature treatment and immersion in simulated sweat for 24 hours, the composite fiber membrane still maintain its original strength. In summary, the MoS₂/PU composite fibrous membranes have excellent photothermal properties. It can effectively convert light energy into heat energy, and maintain excellent structural stability.

Characteristics of charge capture of melt-blown polypropylene electret nonwovens by corona charging

GAO Meng, WANG Zengyuan, LOU Qiwei, CHEN Gangjin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  52-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201101007

Abstract ( 328 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (4862KB) ( 145 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the differences in the filtering performance of melt-blown polypropylene (MBPP) electret nonwovens obtained under different charging conditions and the applied environment influence on their charge storage stability, correlation between the charging conditions and the charge storage performance of the MBPP electret nonwovens was investigated based on the thermally stimulated discharge technology and measurement of surface potential distribution. The influence of water and alcohol fumigation on the charge storage stability was studied. The experimental results show that the energy levels of positive and negative charge trap are similar, but the filtering performance of the positive corona charging nonwoven is better than that of the negative corona charging. The surface potential values are not able to reflect accurately the quality of their filter performance. The filter efficiency of the nonwovens attenuates a little after water fumigation, and it attenuates a lot after alcohol fumigation, to the same the level as that without charging. This research provided a basis for the production and application of MBPP electret nonwovens under high humidity and medical environments.

Textile Engineering

Balanced interlacement characteristics of compound full-color jacquard structure with single warp and double wefts

LU Shuangyi, ZHOU Jiu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  59-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201200507

Abstract ( 404 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (13303KB) ( 237 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to avoid weaving interruption caused by unbalanced interlacement of compound full-color jacquard fabrics, a new design method for balanced interlacement was proposed and optimized. For the single-warp-double-weft structure, linear horizontal, linear vertical and radial gray gradient pattern grids were designed for weaving samples. Conventional structures and optimal structures were then compared and analyzed from three aspects: weaving stability, surface effect and standard deviation of warp interlacement frequency. It is evident that all samples made from the optimal structures and the linear vertical gradient samples using the conventional structures demonstrate characteristics of balanced interlacement. Linear horizontal and radial gradient samples woven from conventional structures perform arched status at cloth-fell with different degrees, leading to weaving interruption and bumpy surface in some cases, which represents unbalanced interlacement. To solve this problem, filling density was adjusted to be lower than 800 picks/(10 cm) to avoid the error of covering of adjacent wefts, and the characteristics of structural balanced interlacement were quantified by calculating interlacement frequency. Dispersion degrees of warp interlacement frequency of samples are approaching zero while applying optimal structures, and juxtaposed wefts in optimal structures express non-backed twill effect, proving the effectiveness of the optimal method for balanced structural design.

Effect of combed polyester top content on properties of polyester knitted fabrics

CHEN Ke, ZHANG Di, JI Yijun, LE Rongqing, SU Xuzhong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  66-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210102605

Abstract ( 350 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (5750KB) ( 108 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to develop high-quality polyester knitted fabrics, six groups of pure polyester yarns with different combed polyester top content and one group of plain combed polyester yarn were designed, and the corresponding knitted fabrics were prepared. Anti-pilling property, bursting property, fabric style, air permeability and moisture permeability of the fabrics were tested. The results show that the moisture permeability, air permeability, fuzzing and pilling property, bursting property and fabric style are directly affected by the content of combed polyester top. When the content of combed polyester top is 60%-70%, the moisture permeability, bursting behavior and fabric style are regarded as the best, and when the content of combed polyester top is 100%, the properties of air permeability and pilling are the best. When the content of combed polyester top is between 60% and 70%, the wearability of the fabrics has little difference compared with that of the whole combed yarn. For actual production, the use of different contents of the combed polyester top is effective in meeting the requirements for high quality and for saving cost and increasing efficiency.

Topological optimization design of dynamic moisture and temperature control for three dimensional knitted fabrics

YUAN Luning, WANG Jianping, ZHANG Bingjie, ZHANG Yuting, YAO Xiaofeng

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  70-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305806

Abstract ( 275 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (6885KB) ( 84 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to develop a three-dimensional knitted fabric with excellent dynamic humidity and temperature control, 70 dtex(72 f)×2 DRYARN^® and 30 dtex DRYARN^® wrapped with a 30 dtex spandex filament were selected as raw materials. The topological optimization design method of three-dimensional knitted fabrics was proposed, where the temperature control units were optimized to be arranged in V-shape, Y-shape and other dislocated arrangement, and a folded sheet structure was created by locally stretching and pleating the fabric by using the single-sided jacquard process. The result show that when the human body is sweating, the inner layer of the folded sheet structure absorbs sweat drops and transfers the moisture to the surface layer for rapid evaporation. When the human body feels cold, the inner air channel stores still air and effectively controls the temperature. The insulation rate of the prepared fabrics is more than 54%, and it has excellent temperature control performance. The overall liquid water transfer capacity is more than grade 3, and the liquid water dynamic transfer performance is good, while maintaining excellent tensile recovery performance. It provides a new idea for the research and development of three-dimensional knitted fabrics for winter thermal sports underwear.

Optimal configuration of embedded position and number of carbon nanotube yarns in 3-D braided composites

WAN Zhenkai, JIA Minrui, BAO Weichen

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  76-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210101907

Abstract ( 331 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (7609KB) ( 77 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to facilitate comprehensive monitoring of the internal damage of aerospace structures, the optimal configuration of 3-D intelligent braided composites embedded with carbon nanotube(CNT)yarns as sensors with multiple targets and discontinuous objective function was studied by using the non-dominant neighborhood immune multi-target optimization algorithm. In this paper, the optimal insertion location and quantity of CNT yarn sensors were analyzed based on the three-dimension-four-step-six-direction braiding process. The optimal allocation problem of CNT yarn sensor was solved by using the non-dominant neighborhood immune multi-objective optimization algorithm, and the optimal number and location of different specimen embedded sensors in the 3-D intelligent braided composite were derived. The stress experiment and data analysis on the damaged specimens prove that the principle of optimal configuration of CNT yarn sensor can be applied for damage monitoring of 3-D braided composite materials with the positioning error less than 0.6 mm. This study lays a foundation for the establishment of intelligent composite damage source identification model.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Ultrasonic-assisted chemical degumming process for making pineapple leaf fiber

HE Junyan, LI Mingfu, LIAN Wenwei, HUANG Tao, ZHANG Jin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  83-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201006608

Abstract ( 322 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (7575KB) ( 74 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to degumming pineapple leaves efficiently, ultrasonic cleaning technology and chemical degumming technology were used in conjuction, and the factors of ultrasonic frequency, ultrasonic treatment time and ultrasonic treatment temperature were optimized by the response surface methodology. The structure and properties of fiber were characterized by scanning electron microscope, fourier infrared spectroscopy and thermal analysis during the degumming process. The results show that the optimal process conditions for the ultrasonic-assisted chemical degumming of pineapple leaf fibers are as follows: ultrasonic frequency of 53 kHz, ultrasonic treatment time of 35 min, and ultrasonic treatment temperature of 53 ℃. Under the optimized conditions, the fiber residual gum rate was 13.8%, and the fiber breaking strength was 4.2 cN/dtex, which is basically consistent with the theoretical value, meeting the spinning requirements. The order of the influence of each factor on the residual gum rate and breaking strength of the fiber is: ultrasonic frequency, ultrasonic treatment time, and ultrasonic treatment temperature. The ultrasonic treatment helps the removal of hemicellulose and ligninon, has little damage to the cellulose molecular chain, and has little effect on thermal performance.

Preparation and numerical simulation of colored fabric with amorphous photonic crystal structures

ZHU Xiaowei, WEI Tianchen, XING Tieling, CHEN Guoqiang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  90-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201006207

Abstract ( 433 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (7922KB) ( 120 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study the structure of amorphous photonic crystal and achieve effective control over structural color, polystyrene/polydopamine (PS/PDA) microspheres with shell-core structure prepared by rapid oxidation were used to construct 3-D structure on cotton fabrics, and Rsoft software was used to establish a numerical model to calculate its optical properties. The influence of particle size and incident angle of crystal microsphere on the reflectivity of photonic crystal was investigated, and the chromaticity coordinate was obtained by CIE standard chromaticity system. The results show that the calculated results are in good agreement with the experimental results. The structures of PS/PDA nanospheres with particle sizes of 195, 222, 267 and 287 nm correspond to blue, green, yellow-green and red colors respectively, and the structural color will not change with the different incident angle. By numerical simulation, the size of the nanoparticles can be controlled and the photonic pseudo band gap of the amorphous photonic crystal can be adjusted effectively.

Application of catalytic oxidative soaping for polyester/cotton fabric dyeing in one bath

ZHANG Fan, ZHANG Guobo, ZHAO Yuxin, ZHANG Ru, YANG Hai, WANG Shihao, WANG Nanfang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  97-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201001307

Abstract ( 302 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (4903KB) ( 62 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to increase color fastnesses of the polyester/cotton fabrics dyed by one bath method and promote energy conservation and emission reduction, a novel method of catalytic oxidation based on a metal complex/H₂O₂ system was introduced into the soaping process of the one bath dyeing of the polyester/cotton fabrics. The complex catalytic activities of Fe(II) citrate and Mn(II) citrate were investigated by using theoretical calculation and soaping experiment. The influence of soaping process parameters on properties of decolorization and K/S value was studied. The comparative experiment was used for valuating the catalytic oxidative soaping and the reduction free cleaning. The optimal catalytic oxidative soaping process was found to be 1.0% Fe(II) citrate complex with 1.0 g/L concentration, and 30% H₂O₂ with 3.3 g/L concentration, and soaping at 85 ℃ for 25 min. The results show that the catalytic activity soaping performance of Fe(II) citrate complex is higher than that of Mn(II) citrate complex. Compared to the reduction free cleaning, the catalytic oxidative soaping has better wet color fastnesses (over grade 4) with an outstanding ability of decolorizing the dyeing effluent and reducing its toxicity and a prominent potential of energy conservation and emission reduction. The study is helpful for promoting cleaner dyeing production of polyester/cotton fabrics.

Direct electrochemical reduction of vat dyes on carbon felt electrodes

YANG Zhuo, WANG Wei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  104-111.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201002808

Abstract ( 288 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (6743KB) ( 65 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

The direct electrochemical reduction of vat dyes is difficult to carry out due to poor contact between insoluble vat dyes and the electrodes. In order to solve this problem, using graphite felt as the electrode, under a three-electrode system, the electrochemical behaviors of Vat Yellow 3RT, Vat Green FFB and Vat Olive Green B were studied, and the effects of temperature, voltage, current, electrolyte and dye concentration on direct electrochemical reduction were explored, the current efficiency and conversion rate of electrochemical reduction were also tested. The results show that vat dyes could be directly reduced into leuco. Using carbon felt cathode as electrode direct electrochemical reduction rate could be effectively improved. Electrochemical reduction rate increases significantly with the increase of temperature. At excessive level of negative potential or current, hydrogen evolution begins to occur and becomes the main rection, which affects the rate of dye reduction. Under the conditions of 60 ℃ and -1.0 V, the vat dyes could be reduced within 10 min to 40 min, and the conversion rate could reach more than 90%, and the current efficiency is between 50% and 60%.

Effect of cationic modification in hydrophobic system on ink droplet spreading on cotton/polyamide fabrics

LI Chang, FANG Kuanjun, LIU Xiuming, AN Fangfang, LIANG Yingchao, LIU Hao

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  112-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201001208

Abstract ( 272 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (10567KB) ( 62 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the homo-chromaticity, color performance and fixation rate of ink droplets on the surface of cotton/polyamide fabrics, cationic modification of cotton/polyamide fabric was carried out in hydrophobic system using surfactant N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-dodecanamide (LDEA) to construct. The effect of the mass fraction of the cationic modifier 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride (CHPTAC) and LDEA in the modification system on the modification result of the fabric was explored. The spread area, color performance and fixation rate of the ink droplets on the surface of the modified fabric under different processes were tested. The surface morphology, chemical structure and electrical changes of the modified fabric were analyzed. Results show that cationic modification reduced the spread area of ink droplets on the fabric surface by 30%. Compared with aqueous system, the homo-chromaticity and color performance of the ink droplets on the surface of the fabric after modification in the hydrophobic system are significantly improved. The apparent color strength upgraded to 2.7 and the difference decreased by 41% between cotton and polyamide fibers. The white spot phenomenon on the surface of the ink droplet was eliminated. The modifier were grafted successfully on the surface of cotton and polyamide fibers, and furthermore the distribution could be made more uniform between two fibers in the hydrophobic system compared with aqueous system.

Primary color extraction method for brocade

MIAO Peiyuan, FANG Zhouqian, SUN Ting, JIN Xiaoke, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  120-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102806

Abstract ( 454 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (13399KB) ( 360 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Traditional ethnic brocades are rich in colors, and their unique color collocation is an outstanding source for design inspiration to designers. Aiming to find a suitable method to extract the primary colors of ethnic brocade, different methods were used to extract and analyze them. We used the K-means optimization algorithm, color layering method based on HLS color space, and Photoshop software to extract the primary colors of ethnic brocade. 8-color or 10-color primary color cards were constructed, based on which the brocade pictures with the extracted primary colors were reconstructed. Following that, a comparative analysis of the primary color card sof ethnic brocades from the perspective of Lab value and RGB value shows that Photoshop software is more suitable for the primary color extraction for ethnic brocades. Finally, the corresponding primary color cards of Zhuang, Li, and Tujia brocade were established. Zhuang, Li, and Tujia ethnic groups have certain regional commonness in the use of color collocation, which is related to the traditional "five elements of positive colors". Through analysis, it is concluded that the use of Photoshop to extract the primary colors of ethnic brocades can provide a reference for designers in the process of color extraction.

Influence of pretreament on anti-wrinkle finishing of cotton fabrics

CHENG Pei, FU Jiajia, WANG Lei, ZHANG Jianxiang, ZHANG Kai, GAO Weidong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  126-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200102105

Abstract ( 292 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (3216KB) ( 112 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the anti-wrinkle effect of cotton fabrics, the bleached cotton fabrics were pretreated with mercerizing, liquid ammonia, mercerizing-liquid ammonia and liquid ammonia-mercerizing, respectively. Then the fabrics with different pretreatments were subjected to moisture crosslinking finishing. The wrinkle recovery performance and tensile breaking properties of all treated fabrics were tested. The effect of different pretreatments on cotton fabrics and their moisture crosslinking finishing were systematically investigated. The results show that the liquid ammonia treating improves the wrinkle recovery and strength. The order of liquid ammonia treating and mercerizing in combined treatment has a significant effect on the performance of treated fabrics. The improvement in the wrinkle performance and strength of the "mercerizing-liquid ammonia" treatment on bleached cotton fabrics was found greater than that of the "liquid ammonia-mercerizing". Fabrics with single liquid ammonia pretreatment and moisture crosslinking finishing presents the highest wrinkle recovery angle, which reaches 270.67°, and the strength retention rate is 77.42%. Fabrics with the combined mercerizing-liquid ammonia pretreatment and moisture crosslinking finishing have the highest strength retention rate, which is 82.97%, and the wrinkle recovery angle is 266.17°. The four pretreatments combined with moisture crosslinking finishing process offer the potential to improve the strength retention rate of treated cotton fabrics and to maintain satisfied anti-wrinkle performance.

Grafting modification of polyamide 6 fabric with methyl methacrylate initiated by hydrogen peroxide/ascorbic acid and its properties

CHEN Xiangxiang, WU Ting, ZHOU Weitao, SUN Yangyang, DU Shan, ZHANG Xiaoli

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  131-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102106

Abstract ( 370 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (4759KB) ( 96 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to tackle the whiteness declination of polyamide 6 fabric after prolonged light exposure, methyl methacrylate (MMA) was grafted onto polyamide 6 (PA6) via hydrogen peroxide/ascorbic acid(H₂O₂/H₂A) as initiator. The effects of grafting time, grafting temperature, initiator and monomer concentration on grafting rate were studied, and the micro morphology, chemical structure, whiteness and wearability of the grafted fabric were characterized. The optimal process conditions were identified as follows: grafting temperature 70 ℃, grafting time 60 min, initiator H₂O₂/H₂A mass fraction 30%, MMA concentration 1.5 mol/L. The fabric surface became rough after grafting with small granular materials. The whiteness index of the modified fabric increased from the previous 58.6 to 70.53 after UV irradiation for 8 h, showing excellent light resistance. The stiffness index of the modified fabric increased from 10.7 to 23.6, and the smoothness increased from 71.7 to 80.3, both contributing to good wearability.

Apparel Engineering

Determination and application of air gap parameters in coverall fit analysis

WANG Shitan, WANG Xiuhua, WANG Yunyi

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  137-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102208

Abstract ( 426 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (8248KB) ( 144 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

This study was to quantify the interaction between human body and coverall garments, aiming to create a quantitative index for clothing fit analysis. Naked and clothed human bodies were scanned with 7 postures using a 3-D body scanner. 22 air gap parameters were extracted by 3-D scanned image analysis, from which 9 typical parameters were determined. An evaluation equation of clothing fit based on the typical air gap parameters was finally built using factor analysis. The results indicate that the newly proposed fit evaluation equation offers satisfactory evaluation effect. In addition, it is observed that arm lifting and bending postures would significantly reduce the air gap compared to the standing posture. In particular, the more complex the postures, the wider the range of influence; for instance for arm lifting and bending postures the crotch length decreased about 64%. Chest and back, hip and crotch and leg were identified as the primary regions influencing coverall fit.

3-D virtual try-on technique based on dynamic feature of body postures

LI Bowen, WANG Ping, LIU Yuye

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  144-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201200406

Abstract ( 488 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (9202KB) ( 151 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the dynamic perception of personalized postures and the tracking and matching of human body's posture by clothing modeling, this paper established the hierarchical 3-D clothing skeleton points model based on two types of the motion features of the human postures, distinguishing the trunk (global) from the limbs (local), and integrating the clothing model with the body circumferencial features extracted using Kinect camera. In parallel, the global-local singular value decomposition algorithm (GL-SVD) was designed to hierarchically control the deformation of 3-D clothing skeleton model cooperatively. The results from virtual try-on test system show that relative tracking error of the new method is reduced by about 10%, the real-time tracking accuracy and matching precision between the clothing model and the human body is obviously improved. This new technique supports the complex posture (such as leg lifts, lunges) trying-on scenarios of various clothing types such as skirts, pants, tops, and more.

Prediction of thermal comfort for bedding system based on four-node thermoregulation model

PAN Mengjiao, LU Yehu, WANG Min

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  150-155.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201207206

Abstract ( 390 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (4420KB) ( 143 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

To optimize the design of bedding systems, the difference of physiological parameters during different sleeping periods was considered. In this research, a four-node thermoregulation model was established and verified, the change of core temperature and skin temperature was predicted, and the effects of ambient temperature, thermal resistance of bedding system and contact area between human body and bedding system on thermal comfort for sleeping human were investigated. The results show that core temperature and skin temperature both increase with the increasing of ambient temperature, whereas core temperature during NREM in low temperature environment is hardly affected by the ambient temperature. The influence of thermal resistance of bedding system on core temperature is not significant, while the skin temperature is kept increasing with thermal resistance of bedding system. The core temperature and skin temperature both increase with the increasing of the contact area between human body and bedding system, but the core temperature is less affected. The results of this study will provide scientific basis for design of high-performance home textile products.

Machinery & Accessories

Influence of densely wound coil array structure on driving performance of suspended knitting needles

LI Dongdong, ZHANG Chengjun, ZUO Xiaoyan, ZHANG Chi, ZHU Li, LIU Yakun

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  156-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201008907

Abstract ( 268 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (6398KB) ( 53 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the driving performance of knitting needles, through the analysis of the densely wound coil array structure, the driving structure of the floating needle was determined, and the spatial magnetic field strength and the driving force of the floating needle were improved. According to Biot-Savart law, the electromagnetic model of the densely wound coil array structure was deduced, and the magnetic induction intensity of different densely wound coil structures and array methods at any position on the central axis was analyzed and calculated, which gain the electromagnetic field of the permanent magnet knitting needles under different air gaps and driving force. An electromagnetic simulation software was used to establish the driving model of the densely wound coil array structure, and the numerical curve of the electromagnetic driving force of the single and array type densely wound coil structure on the permanent magnetic needle were obtained. Using the constructed densely wound coil array driving experiment test platform, comparative analysis of simulation and experimental results were achieved, showing that the cylindrical densely wound coil has better driving performance in the permanent magnetic needle drive system, and the driving force generated by a single group of densely wound coils is greater than that of multiple groups.

Design of dynamic tension compensation system for warp knitting let-off based on model predictions

ZHENG Baoping, JIANG Gaoming, XIA Fenglin, ZHANG Aijun

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  163-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201202807

Abstract ( 305 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (5193KB) ( 87 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to control the yarn dynamic tension compensation, warp knitting machines are required to control the variation of tension values in different angles in a cycle of knitting process. In view of the defects associated with controlling the let-off of warp beam, such as excessive yarn tension fluctuation and difficulty in accurate control of yarn tension with different angles in a row, a warp knitting let-off dynamic tension compensation system based on model prediction has been developed. To faclitate the yarn dynamic tension compensation control, a hardware and software platform of the system was designed, tension sensors were selected and optimized, algorithm for determining the electronic cam programming profile and the control algorithm for model prediction were created, on the basis of analyzing the movement law of the winding mechanism of the warp knitting machine. Through theoretical analysis and experimental validation, the control algorithm of model prediction is found to reduce the yarn tension peak value by at least 56% by analyzing the feedback yarn dynamic tension curve.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of antibacterial materials for textiles and their applications

ZHAI Lisha, WANG Zonglei, ZHOU Jingyi, GAO Chong, CHEN Fengxiang, XU Weilin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  170-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201000910

Abstract ( 781 )   HTML ( 62 )   PDF (7010KB) ( 374 )   Save

References | Related Articles | Metrics

With the advancement of science and technology and the improvement of people's living standards, especially when combating the further spread of SARS-CoV-2 in the world, higher requirements for functional antibacterial textiles have to be put forward. This paper reviews the common antibacterial materials and their anti-bacterial mechanisms and the research progress in antibacterial finishing agents in the textile field. The development direction of antibacterial finishing agents and antibacterial textiles were recommended in four aspects: the selectivity and efficiency of antibacterial finishing agents, the safety of antibacterial textiles, the wearability and durability of antibacterial textiles, and the hysteresis and standardization of antibacterial textile testing standards, in order to provide theoretical basis for the development of antibacterial textiles and upgrade the functional antibacterial textiles.

Research and application progress in fire retardant fabric based on polymeric hydrogel

YU Zhicai, LIU Jinru, HE Hualing, MA Shengnan, JIANG Huiyu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  180-186.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804707

Abstract ( 557 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF (7668KB) ( 292 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the fire resistance of textiles, this paper reviews the application of hydrogels as a new type of fire retardant materials, because of the high absorbability of hydrogels with a three-dimensional network. Moreover, the fire-retardant mechanism of hydrogels such as endothermic cooling, gas dilution and oxygen isolation in the process of fire extinguishing was systematically described. According to relevant literature, the novel treatment technology of composite flame-retardant fabric was discussed. It was summarized that flame retardant composite fabrics based on hydrogel have excellent flame-retardant property. This paper critically reviewed and analyzed the challenges and opportunities of hydrogels as flame retardant materials in the field of textile thermal protection. It is found that improving the binding fastness between hydrogels and fabrics, developing self-healing flame retardant hydrogel materials and multifunctional flame retardant hydrogel fabrics call for further research.

Research progress on application of aerogel materials in firefighting clothing

JIANG Lulu, DENG Meng, WANG Yunyi, LI Jun

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  187-194.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200800108

Abstract ( 924 )   HTML ( 97 )   PDF (5136KB) ( 260 )   Save

References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to pursue the application of aerogel materials in the field of firefighting clothing, improve the comprehensive wearability of firefighting clothing, and promote the development of new types of firefighting clothing, advantages and disadvantages of using aerogel materials in firefighting clothing were evaluated based on research findings reported in recent years. The thermal properties of aerogel materials were discussed, including thermal insulation performance and thermal stability. The literatures were reviewed from two aspects, i.e. aerogel used as coating materials and that directly embedded in multi-layer fabric systems. The application and research status of the firefighting clothing were summarized, and the thermal protection performance and comfort performance of thermal and moisture of aerogel-type firefighting clothing were also analyzed. The problems in the application process of aerogel materials are categorised, and the future application direction of the aerogel materials forecasted. Balance between thermal protection and thermal comfort, the improvement of aerogel mechanical properties and thermal stability, and the development and application of aerogel composites are forecasted as the research directions in the future.

Development status and trend of antivirus medical protective clothing

LIU Yang, XIA Zhaopeng, WANG Liang, FAN Jie, ZENG Qiang, LIU Yong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(09):  195-202.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200800608

Abstract ( 2027 )   HTML ( 235 )   PDF (10394KB) ( 707 )   Save

Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to provide new insights for production, use, research and standards establishment of medical protective clothing in post-pandemic era, this paper summarizes the current production process, raw materials and use of medical protective clothing. From the point of view of sustainable development, it is pointed out that the development trend of medical protective clothing should focus on classified use, reuse, degradability after disposal, safety, comfort and intelligence. Finally, starting from the application scene of medical protective clothing, aiming at the problems existing in the research, production and use of medical protective clothing, this paper puts forward suggestions such as classifying the production, use and waste of medical protection as soon as possible, perfecting the relevant standards, improving the strategic reserve, strengthening the comfort and wearing psychology research and so on. This paper can provide reference for medical protective clothing production enterprises, users and standard-setting units, as well as public medical materials reserve departments.