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Table of Content

    15 August 2022, Volume 43 Issue 08
    • Invited Column: Reserch on Spinning Technology
      On-line detection and pattern analysis of separation drafting force in comber
      CHEN Yuheng, GAO Weidong, REN Jiazhi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220402006
      Abstract ( 313 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF (2563KB) ( 118 )   Save
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      In order to study the variation law of separation drafting force in the combing process and to explore the separation drafting mechanism of comber, an on-line detection device of separation drafting force of comber was designed by torque sensor, and the numerical variation of drafting force in a separation cycle was obtained. Remaining other process parameters unchanged, the effects of comber speed and top combing process parameters on separation drafting force were analyzed. The results show that the separation drafting force of comber increases first and then decreases in a "mountain" pattern, and the peak value appears at 24 degrees. The separation drafting force and its increment increase as comber speed increases, and the top comb has a great influence on the separation drafting force. When the top comb was removed, the peak tensile force was decreased by 24.67%–34.81%. It is also found that the separation drafting force increases with the increase of top comb tooth density and insertion depth, but the influence of the insertion depth of the top comb on the drafting force is greater than that of the top comb tooth density.

      Effect of feeding forms on carding efficiency by licker-in roller of high yield carding machine
      NI Jingda
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  7-11.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220409506
      Abstract ( 458 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1431KB) ( 76 )   Save
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      For the new type of high yield flat carder, with the problems of low output,high noil rate, low noil impurity rate and poor quality of sliver and yarn of the medium cotton production, which is produced in the form of forward feeding. The advantages and disadvantages of forward and reverse feeding form were analyzed. For the same type of carding machine, two kinds of feeding forms were used respectively to compare the influence of feeding form on the carding effect of high yield carding machine. Experiments were carried out to verify the effect of feeding form on combed cotton yarn and color spun cotton yarn. The results show that reverse feeding can increase carding machine output, and improve the carding ability between feeding and licker-in roller, and reduce noil cotton rate, and improve noil cotton impurity rate. The carding and impurity removal burden in the main carding area around cylinder is reduced. The quality of sliver and yarn has been improved. The service life of carding equipment has been extended. The advantages of reverse feeding of carding machine are especially for the production of medium cotton yarn and color spun yarn.

      Research progress of dual-feed-opening rotor spinning technology
      WANG Jun, SHI Qianqian, LI Ling, ZHANG Yuze
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  12-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220409609
      Abstract ( 339 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (5965KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      Rotor spinning technology has been widely used for its advantages of high speed and high yield, but traditional rotor spinning is not suitable for making blended yarns from fibers with different fiber properties due to the configuration of single opening roller. In recent years, the dual-feed-opening (DFO) rotor spinning technology has provided a possibility for the development of such blended yarns. To this end, the development process of DFO rotor spinning technology was reviewed and summarized in this paper. The similarities and differences of the airflow field distribution in the spinning unit between DFO and the traditional rotor spinning were compared. The mixing and distribution of two independently fed fibers for making yarns was discussed. Reasons for the quality improvement of DFO rotor spun yarn and the characteristics of DFO yarn structure were pointed out. Furthermore, the progress of DFO rotor spinning technology in yarn product design and fabric development was also reviewed, and the future development prospects of this technology were prospected. It is pointed out that perfecting the DFO spinning unit and developing fancy yarns with changes in color and structure are the directions of its research and development.

      Method and characteristics of section colored slub yarns spun by two-channel ring spinning based on single-zone drafting
      GUO Mingrui, GAO Weidong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  21-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220402307
      Abstract ( 229 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (4317KB) ( 50 )   Save
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      Decorative roving of section colored slub yarns spun on the existing ring spinning machine must be subjected to double zone drafting. There is a problem that the length of composite segment of color slub fluctuates greatly and the morphological stability of color slub is poor, which affects the fancy effect of fabric. A new double-channel ring spinning machine with single draft zone for spinning section colored slub yarn was developed. The influence factors and variation rules between two spinning methods on the composite slub yarn were analyzed. The yarn image continuous acquisition device was used to measure and analyse the characteristic parameters of the composite segments of section colored slub yarns. The results show that the section colored slub yarns spun by two-channel ring spinning based on single-zone drafting is superior to the traditional one in terms of length stability and shape of section colored slub. The coefficient of variation of color slub length of 20 mm short segment decreased from 30.5% to 16.3%, and that of 80 mm long segment decreased from 10.1% to 6.2%.

      Effect of air-jet vortex spinning process on properties of viscose/polyester core-spun yarns
      ZOU Zhuanyong, MIAO Lulu, DONG Zhengmei, ZHENG Guoquan, FU Na
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  27-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220402507
      Abstract ( 327 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (2436KB) ( 122 )   Save
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      In order to obtain higher strength air-jet vortex spun yarns, the viscose/polyester core-spun yarn was produced on air-jet vortex spinner by adding a polyester filament in the yarn formation process. The effects of core filament linear density and the yarn delivery speed on the strength, elongation, unevenness and hairiness of air-jet vortex spun viscose/polyester core-spun yarn were studied by statistical analysis method. The structure and appearance of core-spun yarns under different spinning conditions was compared and analyzed. The results show that the core filament linear density and yarn delivery speed have different effects on the performance of air-jet vortex viscose/polyester core-spun yarn. In general, either too high or too low yarn delivery speed is not conducive to improving yarn strength-elongation performance and improving yarn evenness for core-spun yarns obtained, and the increase of yarn delivery speed will increase the hairiness H value. In a certain range, increasing the core filament linear density is beneficial to improve the strength and elongation of the core-spun yarn, and the hairiness H value of the core-spun yarn decreases with the increase of the core-filament linear density. In addition, when the larger core-filament linear density and higher yarn delivery speed are selected in air-jet vortex spinning, there is more obvious exposure for the core filament in viscose/polyester core-spun yarn.

      Fiber Materials
      Microstructure and properties of polyester composite fibers with different drafting ratios
      GAO Feng, SUN Yanlin, XIAO Shunli, CHEN Wenxing, LÜ Wangyang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  34-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210602006
      Abstract ( 355 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (2163KB) ( 180 )   Save
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      In order to study the relationship between process, structure and properties of PET/PTT parallel composite fibers, the crystalline orientation properties, thermal properties, mechanical properties and crimp properties, unstretched and 2.35–3.35 times stretched elastic fibers were tested and analyzed with the two-dimensional wide angle X-ray diffractometer and differential scanning calorimeter.The crystallinity of the PET/PTT composite fiber increased from 43.04% to 45.73%, but the crystallinity of the PTT fiber remained stable, its orientation increased from 82.3% to 89.2%, indicating that the draft induction orientation reached saturation. The increase in orientation also led to the increase of the elastic modulus of PET/PTT fiber from 16.8 cN/dtex to 23.1 cN/dtex and the tensile strength from 2.9 cN/dtex to 3.5 cN/dtex, but the elongation at break decreased from 52.6% to 38.6%; the increase of the draft multiplicity led to the obvious difference of the bicomponent fiber structure. The increase in draft multiplicity led to a significant difference in the structure of the bicomponent fibers, resulting in more excellent curl properties of the composite fiber.

      Preparation and properties of poly(lactic acid)/ZnO fiber with antibacterial and anti-ultraviolet functions
      ZHU Yanlong, GU Yingshu, GU Xiaoxia, DONG Zhenfeng, WANG Bin, ZHANG Xiuqin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  40-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210608708
      Abstract ( 341 )   HTML ( 32 )   PDF (2910KB) ( 270 )   Save
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      In order to endow poly(lactic acid)( PLA ) fiber with high anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial properties, PLA/ZnO blends with different mass ratios were prepared via melt blending method applying ZnO as functional particles. According to the morphology, thermal properties, anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial properties of the blends, the optimal mass ratio of the blend was chosen which was further fabricated into PLA/ZnO fiber through melt spinning. When the mass fraction of ZnO masterbatch was 5% with the mass fraction of ZnO being 0.85%, ZnO particles were uniformly distributed in the PLA matrix. The PLA/ZnO blend exhibited good thermal stability, excellent anti\|ultraviolet and antibacterial properties. The ultraviolet protection coefficient reached 663, and the antibacterial rate against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus was more than 99%. Moreover, the PLA/ZnO blend fiber showed good spinnability with crystallinity reaching more than 30% and the fiber strength meeting the weaving requirements. The ultraviolet transmittance of the prepared PLA/ZnO fabric is less than 30%, and its antibacterial rate against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus is as high as 99%, which can also be maintained after 10 washes.

      Preparation and properties of silicon nitride fibers by oxygen thermal cross-linking of polysilazane
      LI Hailong, CHEN Jianjun, BAO Zhihao, XIONG Yilian, LIN Wenxin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  48-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210505807
      Abstract ( 266 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2570KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      To explore the optimum technology of oxygen thermal cross-linking for polysilazane (PSZ) fibers and the effect of oxygen thermal cross-linking on compositions and structures of PSZ fibers and silicon nitride (Si3N4) fibers, Si3N4 fibers were successfully prepared using methyldichlorosilane and dimethyldichlorosilane as raw materials by ammonolysis polycondensation, thermopolymerization, melt spinning, oxygen thermal cross-linking and pyrolysis. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction and some other measures were utilized to analyze the structure and properties of the samples. After the PSZ fibers cured at 120 ℃ for 12 h, its ceramic yields were higher than that of uncured PSZ fibers by about 10.2%. The Si3N4 fibers with smooth flat surface and without groove cracks and other defects were obtained by pyrolysis of the cured PSZ fibers at 1 400 ℃ for 2 h. Furthermore, a layer of SiO2 crystalline phase was observed on the surface of the Si3N4 fibers after high-temperature oxidation in air at 1 500 ℃ for 2 h. The obtained fibers after oxidation was a typical type of skin-core structure fibers.

      Preparation and properties of polyvinylpyrrolidone/aloe composite nanofiber membrane
      LI Weiping, YANG Guixia, CHENG Zhiqiang, ZHAO Chunli
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  55-59.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210700605
      Abstract ( 240 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (2723KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      In order to promote the antibacterial properties of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), the natural bacteriostatic agent aloe was loaded in PVP. PVP/Aloe composite nanofiber membranes with different mass ratios were prepared by electrospinning. The morphology, hydrophilicity (hydrophobicity), particle size and group structure of the composite nanofiber membrane were characterized and analyzed by means of scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, contact angle analyzer and surface tensiometer. The results showed that due to the physical interaction between aloe and PVP, the prepared nanofibrous membrane showed a fritter-like structure that was separated from each other and adhered to each other. When the mass ratio of PVP and aloe vera was 10∶4, the fritter-like structure formed was the most obvious. The antibacterial experiment shows that the nanofiber membrane has antibacterial effect on Staphylococcus aureus, and the antibacterial rate reaches 86.2%.

      Textile Engineering
      Preparation and properties of silk fibroin/poly(l-lactic acid) nanofiber yarns-based tendon patches
      LIU Jiao, CHEN Shaojuan, WU Shaohua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  60-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210702607
      Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (5706KB) ( 100 )   Save
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      Textile tendon patches made of pure micro yarn structure has low biological activity, high immunogenicity and is non-biodegradable. Several nano-structured tendon patches with great bioabsorbability were fabricated by weaving with optimized patch material and structure. The weft yarn was constructed with the several different types of silk fibroin (SF)/poly(l-lactic acid) (PLLA) nanofiber yarns, the warp yarn was all composed of traditional PLLA microfiber yarns, and the two sets of yarns were interweaved into patches through the weaving process. The effects of the SF and PLLA mass ratio of nanofiber yarns on the morphology, physicochemical and biological properties of such patches were systematically investigated. The results showed that the crystal diffraction appeared at about 16.4°, and crystallinity and mechanical properties of the patches decreased gradually with the increase of SF content. The breaking loads of all tendon patches were found to be higher than 100 N, meeting the requirement of practical application. The biological tests showed that cell adhesion and proliferation ability of the patches gradually improved with the increase of SF content.

      Density detection method of weft knitted fabrics making use of combined image frequency domain and spatial domain
      DENG Zhongmin, HU Haodong, YU Dongyang, WANG Wen, KE Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  67-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210505007
      Abstract ( 260 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (4709KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems of low accuracy and poor applicability in measuring the density of weft knitted fabrics based on image processing, this paper presents a method for locating the loop position based on the gray curve of weft knitted fabric image to measure the fabric density, which highlights the loop image based on discrete wavelet transform. By extracting the gray curves of weft knitted fabrics and binary image respectively, the coordinates of the actual loop column were obtained by using the trough coordinate verification algorithm based on probability density statistics and the loop coordinate verification algorithm proposed in this study. The eight-neighborhood search algorithm was used to calculate the number of loops in the transverse and longitudinal directions of the weft knitted fabric, and the course and wale densities of the weft knitted fabric were obtained. Compared with the existing methods based on image processing, the method proposed in this paper involves less computation, and the error is less than 1.7% compared with the standard data, which shows that this method has fast measurement and high accuracy, and it is beneficial for automatic measurement of weft knitted fabric density.

      Tensile properties of 3-D woven composites with holes
      SUN Xiaolun, CHEN Li, ZHANG Yifan, LI Mohan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  74-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210505207
      Abstract ( 295 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (4931KB) ( 90 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the effect of aperture on the tensile mechanical behavior, damage mode and failure mechanism of three-dimensional(3-D)woven composites with holes, three types of 3-D woven composite samples with different hole apertures were designed and digital image correlation system and micro-image technique were used for characterization. The results showed that the dimension of holes had little effect on the tensile modulus of 3-D woven composites, but the tensile strengths of the cross section of notched specimens with 6 mm, 10 mm and 14 mm holes decreased by 35.6%, 44.5% and 51.8% respectively. Their tensile strengths of the net section however were almost the same, and the average tensile strength decreased by approximately 22.4% compared with the unnotched samples. The strain distributions of the unnotched specimen were uniform, while the strains of the notched specimens were mainly located at the left and right sides of the open holes. The fracture morphologies of the three notched samples were similar, and the main damage modes were the warp fracture along with fiber pull-out and interlaminar cracking.

      Simulation and analysis of carbon fiber composite unmanned aerial vehicle blade
      WU Xia, YAO Juming, WANG Yan, RIPON Das, JIRI Militky, MOHANAPRIYA Venkataraman, ZHU Guocheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  80-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210802608
      Abstract ( 816 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (4070KB) ( 163 )   Save
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      In order to obtain the optimal layering mode of carbon fiber in unmanned aerial vehicle(UAV) blade, the layering mode of carbon fiber composite UAV blade is designed through ACP (ANSYS Composite PrepPost) module in Workbench. The three-dimensional model of UAV blade is established by using SolidWorks three-dimensional modeling software, and HyperMesh is used to clean and mesh the blade. Ansys Workbench Fluent is used to simulate the different speeds of UAV blade, extract the pressure load on the blade surface, and simulate and analyze the carbon fiber composite UAV blades with different layers. The mechanical simulation results of carbon fiber composite UAV blades are obtained. Based on Tsai–Wu failure criterion, the failure coefficient of each layer is calculated, and the optimal carbon fiber layering mode is [0°,90°,90°,90°,0°].

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Construction of highly stable photonic crystals on textile substrates with asymmetric wetting characteristics
      ZHANG Xingyue, HAN Pengshuai, WANG Yimeng, ZHANG Yunxiao, ZHOU Lan, LIU Guojin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  88-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506307
      Abstract ( 236 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (6032KB) ( 36 )   Save
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      In order to improve the durability of structural colors produced from photonic crystals on textile substrates, a printing paste was prepared considering printing paste performance and substrate wettability, with self-crosslinking poly(styrene–N–hydroxymethylacrylamide) (P(St-NMA)) colloidal microspheres as the main component. Screen printing method was used to construct the highly stable photonic crystals on textile substrates with asymmetric wetting characteristics. The stability of photonic crystal chromogenic structure on textile substrate was tested. The results show that when the concentration of microspheres in printing paste is 80% and the concentration of self-crosslinking accelerator hydrochloric acid is 5%–10%, photonic crystals with bright color and stable structure are obtained. The asymmetric wetting characteristics of the substrate can be achieved by plasma technology. When the treatment time is 3 min, the textile substrates with face and back contact angles of 56° and 110° can be obtained respectively, and photonic crystals with both structural color effect and structural stability can be constructed on the substrate face.

      Degumming of hemp fibers using Fenton method and fiber properties
      SUN Ying, LI Duanxin, YU Yang, CHEN Jialin, FAN Wanyue
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210309107
      Abstract ( 377 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1848KB) ( 62 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the environmental pollution caused by the strong alkalinity in the degumming waste liquid in the textile industry, the Fenton method was used to degum the hemp skin fiber. Using residual gum rate, breaking strength, diameter, whiteness and fiber length as indicators, the effects of pH value, ferrous sulfate concentration, hydrogen peroxide concentration and temperature on the effect of hemp degumming process were discussed. The chemical structure and crystallinity changes of hemp fibers were analyzed by infrared spectrometer and X-ray diffraction analyzer, and the degumming effect of hemp fibers was examined by scanning electron microscope. The test results show that the optimum degumming process conditions are pH 6.0, ferrous sulfate mass concentration 10 g/L, hydrogen peroxide mass concentration 9 g/L, and temperature 80 ℃. Under the optimal process, the residual glue rate of the degummed fibers was 10.12%, the breaking strength was 32.453 cN, the fiber diameter was 29.745 μm, and the fiber length was 5.62 cm. It was found that Fenton method can effectively remove the gum of hemp fiber.

      Antimicrobial properties of chloramine-grafted polyester/polyamide microfiber knitted fabrics
      XIONG Tanping, TAN Fei, HUANG Cheng, YAN Kelu, ZOU Ni, WANG Zheng, YE Jingping, JI Bolin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  101-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210301606
      Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2759KB) ( 97 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate the practical antimicrobial effect of chloramine fabrics as wiping cloths in the field of public health,the optimal chloramine fabric activation process of polyester/polyamide microfiber fabric grafted with 3–allyl–5,5–dimethylhydantoin (ADMH) was investigated based on the content of active chlorine on the fabric. The optimal activation process was reached when the active chlorine concentration of sodium hypochlorite solution was 3 000 mg/kg, the soaking time was 20 min, and the fabric was dried at 60 ℃ for 20 min. The chloramine fabric was tested for antibacterial performance against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Escherichia coli (E. coli), and for antivirus property against influenza A virus H1N1. The treated fabric was used for wiping the intensive care unit (ICU) ward facilities in a hospital and public canteen dining tables. The results show that the antibacterial ratio against both S. aureus and E. coli reaches 99.999%, and the antiviral activity ratio against H1N1 is 99.94%. The amount of residual bacteria on the surface of the cleaned ICU facility is zero. After wiping thirty dining tables successively with the same chloramine fabric, neither the surfaces of the wiped 30 dining tables nor the wiping fabrics were found to be contaminated with bacteria. Moreover, the chloramine fabric shows a good activation and regeneration property of active chlorine when it is treated with sodium hypochlorite solution.

      Preparation and electromagnetic shielding properties of polyester fabric based nano-copper/reduced graphene oxide composites
      YANG Honglin, XIANG Wei, DONG Shuxiu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  107-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210803307
      Abstract ( 183 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3102KB) ( 60 )   Save
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      In order to prepare lightweight and flexible materials with electromagnetic shielding properties, nano copper emulsion and graphene oxide were loaded on polyester fabrics by dip-padding, after which the graphene oxide was reduced by a chemical reduction method to achieve polyester fabrics loaded with nano-copper/reduced graphene oxide composite. The materials were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and X-ray diffraction. The effects of particle size of nano-copper emulsion, mass fraction of nano copper emulsion and graphene oxide on electromagnetic shielding properties of the composite materials were studied. The results show that the composite materials have excellent electromagnetic shielding properties with a minimum reflection loss value of –38.06 dB, with the average particle size of nano copper emulsion being 93.7 nm and mass fraction 20%, and mass fraction of the graphene oxide 8%. Compared with untreated polyester fabric, the composite materials have better wettability and handle, but the breaking strength of composite materials reduced slightly.

      Strain sensing property and respiration monitoring of polyaniline-coated warp-knitted fabrics
      WANG Chenlu, MA Jinxing, YANG Yaqing, HAN Xiao, HONG Jianhan, ZHAN Haihua, YANG Shiqian, YAO Shaofang, LIU Jiangqiaona
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  113-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210805106
      Abstract ( 193 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (2193KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      For preparation of knitted flexible sensor for respiratory monitoring in smart clothing, a two-bar tricot polyester warp-knitted fabric was pretreated by plasma followed by in-situ polymerization treatment for conductivity. The structure, electrical conductivity and strain-resistance sensing property of conductive warp-knitted fabric was investigated, and its application in respiratory monitoring smart underwear was also discussed. The results show that conductive treatment of in-situ polymerization gives the polyester warp-knitted fabric good electrical conductivity, and the resistivity of the fabric is about 11 orders of magnitude lower than that of the untreated. The resistance of conductive warp-knitted fabric decreases during stretching and recovers when shrinking, which shows good strain-resistance sensing characteristics. After a long time of reciprocating stretching, the resistance changes of the conductive warp-knitted fabric remain stable, and the gauge factors are about 6 and 4 at 6% and 10% strain conditions, respectively. The conductive warp-knitted fabric sensor demonstrates good ability to monitor human respiration, which can not only record the occurrence, but also monitor the rate and intensity of respiration.

      Preparation of polydimethylsiloxane modified waterborne polyurethane acrylate hybrid latex and its applications in pigment printing
      XIE Ziwen, LI Jiawei, WANG Fenping, QI Dongming, YAN Xiaofei, ZHU Chenkai, ZHAO Lei, HE Guiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  119-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210206608
      Abstract ( 214 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3973KB) ( 79 )   Save
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      In order to improve the hand feeling, rubbing fastness and other performance of printed fabrics, dihydroxybutyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) was used as the soft segment of polyurethane (PU) to prepare polydimethylsiloxane modified waterborne polyurethane acrylate (Si–PUA) hybrid latexes via miniemulsion polymerization for applications in pigment printing of polyester fabrics. The effects of PDMS mass fraction on water resistance and thermodynamic properties of the hybrid latex films, as well as the dye depth value, dry and wet rubbing fastness and stiffness of the printed fabric were investigated. The results showed that,compared with polyurethane acrylate (PUA), the water resistance and flexibility of the Si–PUA hybrid latex films are improved. When the mass fraction of PDMS was 20%, the water contact angle of Si–PUA hybrid latex film increased by 56.5%, the storage modulus of Si–PUA hybrid film at –55 ℃ decreased by 45.5%. Moreover, when the prepared Si–PUA latex was used in the pigment printing for polyester fabric, the printed fabric had better color depth and rubbing fastness, as well as the softness close to the bare polyester fabric, which exhibited good wearability.

      Preparation and decolorization of iron-based metal\|organic framework/activated carbon fiber composites
      WANG Jing, LOU Yaya, WANG Chunmei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  126-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401806
      Abstract ( 269 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1872KB) ( 121 )   Save
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      In order to improve the reusability of iron-based metal\|organic framework (MOF(Fe)), MOF(Fe)/activated carbon fiber composites (MOF(Fe)/ACF) were prepared by in-situ growth at room temperature using pyromellitic acid, ferrous sulfate and activated carbon fiber (ACF). The structure, morphology and elemental composition of the composites were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction. The decolorization of composites on 50 mg/L Reactive Black KN–B was tested under different conditions, and the mechanism of photocatalytic degradation of dye was discussed. The results showed that the decolorization ratio of composite material on Reactive Black KN–B was 64.7% after 60 min reaction without hydrogen peroxide and 80.2% with 0.12 mL/L hydrogen peroxide. Under the condition of 1 000 W xenon lamp illumination, adding 0.12 mL/L hydrogen peroxide and reacting for 60 min, the decolorization ratio of MOF(Fe)/ACF for Reactive Black KN–B became 95.7%, 52.2% higher than that of the ACF. After five times reuse, the decolorization ratio of MOF(Fe)/ACF could still reach 86.0%.

      Adsorption and decolorization of Reactive Blue 4 by polyurethane foam-immobilized biosystem
      YANG Wenbo, ZHANG Aojie, LIU Youyan, LI Qingyun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  132-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210600808
      Abstract ( 186 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2015KB) ( 145 )   Save
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      In order to construct a long-time effect of decolorization system, the biological adsorbent of Aspergillus flavus A5p1 was immobilized on the polyurethane foam (PUF) to decolorize the anthraquinone dye of Reactive Blue 4 (RB4). The adsorption kinetics, different concentrations of RB4, different concentrations of NaCl and repeated batches decolorization by Aspergillus flavus A5p1 before and after immobilization were investigated and compared. Results showed that the decolorization of RB4 was significantly enhanced after Aspergillus flavus A5p1 immobilization. Approximately 77.8% adsorption of the 200 mg/L RB4 was achieved by the PUF–immobilized biological system within 20 min, while 62.8% was achieved by the free cell system within 90 min. The biological decolorization process of RB4 could be described by the kinetics model of intraparticle diffusion. It was found that the PUF–immobilized biosystem adsorbed around 2.5 times more RB4 than that of the free cell system when RB4 concentration was 2 000 mg/L. Moreover, the PUF–immobilized biosystem exhibited good tolerance to the salinity of 50 g/L NaCl. In the repeated batches experiment, the decolorization efficiency of PUF–immobilized biological system could be maintained at 89% after 7 batches, whereas the free cell system was decreased to 74.3%. These results show the effectiveness and reliability of the PUF–immobilized biosystem.

      Apparel Engineering
      Pattern design of inner rotation styles based on fitted two-piece sleeve
      LU Hong, SONG Jiayi, LI Yuanyuan, TENG Junfeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  140-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210704607
      Abstract ( 338 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (2354KB) ( 110 )   Save
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      Aiming at exploring the forming mechanism and influencing factors of the internal rotation structure of two-piece sleeve and enhancing its mobility and function, three methods were proposed from the draping perspective which are the parting line shifting method, sleeve midline deflection method and sleeve midline rotation method. The value range of each variable for the three methods was determined through the univariate analysis by adopting the 3-D virtual fitting technique. The sleeve pattern of 16 samples from orthogonal experiment were designed for virtual fitting and actual sample making. Subjective and objective evaluation results were analyzed by the established evaluation system. The results show that the influence of each variable on the inner rotation angle was sleeve midline rotation, parting line shifting and sleeve midline deflection in turn. Combined with dynamic and static indicators, as well as the subjective and objective evaluation data analysis, the sleeve sample with variable combination of parting line shifting 0.5 cm, midline deflection 2 cm and midline shifting 1 cm results in the best aesthetics and comfort results.

      Research on virtual display of fully-formed double-layerknitted clothing parts
      ZHAN Biqin, LI Yuxian, DONG Zhijia, CONG Honglian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  147-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210802506
      Abstract ( 260 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (2916KB) ( 148 )   Save
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      In order to develop double-layer fully-formed knitted clothing with high quality real-time virtual display, the parametric design of the double-layer template model after component classification was carried out based on the analysis of the characteristic elements of the special-shaped structure template model of fully-formed double-layer clothing. The topological geometric mapping relationship between two-dimensional template and three-dimensional plate model was established, and the three-dimensional component modeling of inner and outer two-dimensional template was achieved by using spring mass model. Through the use of digital yarn simulation and texture mapping technology, the structural feature points of the two-dimensional plate after texture mapping were calibrated and aligned, and the virtual modeling design and rapid virtual simulation display of seamless parts of fully-formed double-layer knitted clothing were realized. This work provides an innovative scheme for the development and rapid interaction of series products of fully-formed special-shaped knitted clothing.

      Dimensions of clothing webcast experience and its influence mechanism on purchase intention based on grounded theory
      MA Haijing, QU Hongjian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  153-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210802909
      Abstract ( 367 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (2183KB) ( 117 )   Save
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      Aiming at poor experience of clothing live webcast, the research methods of in-depth interview and grounded theory were adopted, and the connotation, dimension index of clothing webcast experience and the impact mechanism of clothing purchase on customers were analyzed and explored in depth. The results show that the clothing webcast experience can be concluded to include seven elements, i.e., clothing product experience, live scene experience, live effect experience, live interaction experience, emotional experience, live content experience and live discount experience. There are two main paths to promote and inhibit its influence mechanism. The main path of the promotion mechanism is "webcast experience–experience value–customer trust–customer purchase intention", and the main path of the inhibition mechanism is "webcast experience–experience value–perceived risk–customer purchase intention". These two main paths coincide with the stimulus-organism-response model, and are regulated by anchor characteristics and customer involvement between stimulus and organism.

      Collocation rule construction of women's wear based on clothing attributes
      MA Ling, LÜ Yexin, LIU Chi, CHEN Jiazhen, ZOU Fengyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  161-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210706906
      Abstract ( 342 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (3317KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      Aiming at the fragmentation of clothing collocation knowledge and fuzzy rules, the attribute priority of women's clothes was extracted through the context information of massive clothing images on the Internet in order to improve the validity of clothing collocation. According to the premise and conclusion relationship, the separately established rules on type, style and color of women's clothes were assembled, and the associating topology of the collocation rules of women's clothes was constructed as a result. The chi-square test was adopted to verify the validity of collocation rules. The test subjects from the experimental group collocate clothes according to the collocation rules which were extracted based on clothes attributes, while the control group collocated clothes by common sense. The results show that there is significant difference of the collocation effect between the two groups, as the qualification rate of collocation which is in line with the constructed collocation rules of women's clothes reaches 85%. The established collocation rules of women's clothes have good guidance significance to clothes collocation and intelligent recommendation.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Detection technology for electromagnetic needle selection based on piezoelectric adhesive assembly
      WANG Luojun, PENG Laihu, SHI Weimin, ZHANG Weizhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  167-175.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201002109
      Abstract ( 196 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3846KB) ( 50 )   Save
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      Aiming at the distortion of cloth pattern caused by electromagnetic needle selector in jacquard knitting machine and high level defects, a signal detection scheme for needle selection based on a piezoelectric adhesive assembly is proposed. The detection experiment of vibration characteristics of the baffle of needle selector was designed, the signal characteristics of the forced vibration of the baffle was analyzed, and the feasibility of using the impact force signal of the forced baffle vibration was verified as the key data for detecting whether the action of the needle selection is effective. The piezoelectric adhesive assembly was prepared through experiments to sense the strain of micro-force of the baffle to facilitate the detection of the impact force signal associated to the needle selection. Based on the analysis of the frequency spectrum of the designed piezoelectric adhesive assembly, electrical modeling was carried out, the detection circuit of vibrating signal was designed, and a semi-closed loop control strategy of electromagnetic needle selection based on the feedback mechanism of signal detection of the vibration was proposed, which helps achieve the real-time monitoring and effectiveness feedback for the jacquard action of the needle selector under the on-site working conditions. This work provides a technical solution for reducing the defective rate of fabrics in the jacquard operation.

      Kinematic characteristics of new piezoelectric actuator for yarn gripper in looms
      MA Xunming, LI Zhiyi, LÜ Guanglei, CHEN Yongjie
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  176-182.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506607
      Abstract ( 250 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3414KB) ( 91 )   Save
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      Aiming at the low response frequency and poor consistency of the traditional electromagnetic yarn grippers, a new design of yarn grippers based on piezoelectric technology was proposed and its piezoelectric actuator was analyzed dynamically. The static parameters of the piezoelectric actuator and the parameters affecting the position shift of the piezoelectric actuator were analyzed, and the optimal holding length was obtained. The dynamic model of cantilever piezoelectric actuator was established and the system was simulated by MatLab. The influence of the numerical changes of each parameter on the dynamic characteristics and stability of the system was analyzed. Finally, an experimental platform was built to test the piezoelectric actuator, and the advance of the piezoelectric actuator was verified. The simulation and experimental results show that when the driving voltage is 150 V, the frequency is 10 Hz, the maximum displacement of the piezoelectric actuator end is 1.49 mm, and the response time of the system reaches the maximum displacement is stable at about 1.6 ms. Compared with the electromagnetic yarn grippers, the dynamic performance of the new piezoelectric actuator has been significantly improved.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in fabric reinforced flexible stab-resistance composites
      WANG Qiushi, HE Caiting, WANG Shan, CHEN Meiyu, LIANG Gaoyong, SUN Runjun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  183-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210801707
      Abstract ( 370 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1604KB) ( 218 )   Save
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      In order to further understand the fabric-reinforced flexible stab-resistance composites for police body armor and improve the stab-resistance of the existing flexible protective equipment, a soft matrix was taken as the entry point to systematically introduce the structure and performance characteristics and influencing factors of various flexible stab-resistance composites, using principles such as shear thickening, hard particle coating, and enhanced resin. The latest research progress in the stab-resistance mechanism of fabric-reinforced flexible stab-resistance composites was summarized. Based on existing studies, the review highlighted the necessity of further research to overcome the shortcomings of protective equipment in terms of flexibility and comfort. A suggestion was made to integrate the advantages of different types of flexible stab-resistance composites in structure and performance characteristics and the stab-resistance mechanisms.

      Research progress on thermal comfort of infant bedding
      JIANG Shu, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  189-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210400108
      Abstract ( 257 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (2154KB) ( 134 )   Save
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      Considering the improvement of the thermal physiological comfort of infants, as well as the establishment of infant bedding thermal comfort evaluation system, this paper reviewed previous researches on the thermal comfort of infant bedding. Based on the analysis of the heat transfer mechanism between the infants and the environment, the influencing factors and test methods for the thermal comfort of the infant bedding were discussed. Besides, the research trend in the field was proposed. Previous researches revealed that the thermal equilibrium of the infants was achieved mainly through the conductive, convective, radiative heat exchange between the surface of the infants and the environment. Moreover, the heat transfer coefficients at the infant skin surface were significantly greater than those of the adults. Excessive thermal protection given by the infant bedding, head covering and prone posture of the infants were likely to cause heat stress for the infants during sleep. Baby thermal manikin was considered as the most ideal device for the research on thermal comfort of infant bedding. In the future, the studies are supposed to focus on the heat and mass transfer process of bedding, numerical simulation on the mechanism of the heat transfer between infants and the environment, and the establishment of the thermoregulation model for infants.

      Progress and trends in application of wearable technology for emotion recognition
      LIU Huanhuan, WANG Zhaohui, YE Qinwen, CHEN Ziwei, ZHENG Jingjin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(08):  197-205.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210107509
      Abstract ( 645 )   HTML ( 49 )   PDF (2657KB) ( 433 )   Save
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      In order to promote the innovative development of smart wearable product technology for emotion recognition in the textile and apparel field, this paper systematically introduced the current research status of emotion recognition monitoring, classification algorithms and emotion recognition wearable devices. The emotion classification model was outlined and the physiological reactions summarized that occur when emotions were generated. In view of the current research status of emotion recognition monitoring methods, two categories of emotion recognition monitoring methods, namely physiological signals and behavioural manifestations, were elaborated, and the common emotion recognition classification algorithms and the existing emotion recognition wearable products based on the wearable device parts were summarized. The review also discussed the challenges and problems that need to be addressed in future development of emotion recognition smart wearable. The review identified future development trend and application prospects from three aspects: flexible and comfortable collection devices, accuracy of recognition results, and the way to interact with recognition results.