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Table of Content

    15 September 2022, Volume 43 Issue 09
    • Invited Column: Textile Intelligent Manufacturing and Robotics
      Advancement in data-driven intelligent control system for roboticized textile production
      ZHANG Jie, XU Chuqiao, WANG Junliang, ZHENG Xiaohu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  1-10.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220506610
      Abstract ( 794 )   HTML ( 100 )   PDF (6898KB) ( 431 )   Save
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      The scale of China's textile industry is huge with long production process, and the industry employs large number of workers, and full-process automated production is still difficult to achieve. The construction of a data-driven intelligent control system for roboticized textile production would play an important role in promoting the transformation and upgrading of China's textile industry from labor-intensive to less-personnel or unmanned production. This paper systematically reviewed the development history of textile robot and intelligent manufacturing system, and proposed a data-driven intelligent control system architecture for roboticized textile production. From the equipment layer, data layer and application layer, this paper discussed three key technologies and applications: multi-type textile robots to fill in the process breakpoints, multi-chain integrated digital thread of textile entire process, and multi-application collaborative intelligent control of textile production. Furthermore, the challenges in practical applications were summarized. The review concluded that high-speed, real-time, dexterity, precision, autonomous and collaborative textile robots, and intelligent management and control systems for textile production with interpretability, sustainability and toughness are possible future development directions.

      Key technologies for full-process robotic automatic production in ring spinning
      ZHENG Xiaohu, LIU Zhenghao, CHEN Feng, LIU Zhifeng, WANG Junliang, HOU Xi, DING Siyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  11-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220407210
      Abstract ( 614 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF (9277KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      Aiming at deep integration of ring spinning full-process automation with industrial robots, a simulation optimization method for ring spinning production line layout was proposed, and a production line collaborative scheduling model was constructed. The application scenarios of key process robots, such as cotton distribution and bale discharge, automatic feeding of cotton rolls by comber and appearance inspection of barrel yarn, were presented in details. An information integrated management and control strategy based on information interconnection technology was proposed, and an intelligent management and control system integrating process, production planning, quality, equipment and logistics was established. The whole process intelligent management mode of ring spinning production line was formed, and the spinning quality traceability based on the yarn tube was achieved. The results show that the task scheduling method effectively improves the production efficiency of related processes. The designed spinning process robot has filled in the process breakpoints such as cotton distribution and bale discharge. After the application of relevant technologies, the comprehensive production efficiency of the enterprise demonstrated an increase of 22.65% and an operating cost reduction of 40%. This technology has been taken as a typical case of intelligent transformation in the spinning industry and is promoted to the industry.

      Key technology for yarn automatic splicer
      MAO Huimin, SUN Lei, TU Jiajia, SHI Weimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  21-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220400606
      Abstract ( 470 )   HTML ( 32 )   PDF (6900KB) ( 134 )   Save
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      The existing splicing devices in knitting workshops are only applicable to some limited yarn types and it is difficult to splice automatically on the yarn frame. This research simulated the manual knotting process and designed a small mechanical splicer consisting of negative pressure thread suction, thread pressing, tensioning, mechanical knotting and thread picking mechanism. In parallel to the analysis of construction and motion principle of the knotting and thread picking mechanisms, the knotting method and process were simulated and analyzed, leading to the development of a prototype for experimental testing. The experimental results show that the mechanical splicer can simulate the manual knotting by using the interplay between the knotting mechanism and the thread picking mechanism to draw and join two yarns together, and the success rate of knotting is higher than 99%, and it is structurally compact and applicable for wide range yarn types.

      Design of shape-following manipulator for three-dimensional sewing of flexible fabrics
      GAO Xiaofei, QI Lizhe, SUN Yunquan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  27-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210608307
      Abstract ( 287 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (5838KB) ( 110 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems of difficult processing and poor stability in processing quality of automatic three-dimensional sewing of flexible fabrics in the garment manufacturing industry, a shape-following manipulator suitable for automatic three-dimensional sewing of flexible fabrics was proposed. The sewing process was analyzed initially and a shape-following manipulator was designed. The position, velocity and acceleration of the manipulator and its workspace were analyzed, before the mechanical analysis and verification of the manipulator structure were carried out. Experiment results show that the manipulator can adapt to the sleeve with cuff diameter ranging from 200 mm to 260 mm. It can automatically tighten the fabrics according to the force feedback without damage to the fabrics. The manipulator can automatically adjust fabrics, and the one finger adjustment range was -12.6-16.8 mm. The relative error of the experiments was 4.34%, and the maximum error was 0.7 mm, which meets the actual sewing process requirements.

      Research on operation-maintenance-patrol-inspection system of yarn package dyeing latch locking robot based on augmented reality technology
      WU Le, ZHANG Qian, YANG Wanran, XU Zhaoyue, WANG Weiguan, HOU Xi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  34-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220601107
      Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (14949KB) ( 139 )   Save
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      According to the requirements for high reliability, stability and low operation and maintenance cost of the key robot in the yarn package dyeing process, this research took the yarn package dyeing latch locking robot as the research object and analysed intelligent inspection workflow, design system schemes and functional modules, design data interface by analyzing the operation process, inspection requirements and common faults of the latch locking robot. This research built a data model for operation-maintenance-patrol-inspection of latch locking robots and a system based on augmented reality technology, realizing the real-time data monitoring, fault monitoring and early warning, comprehensive efficiency analysis and intelligent operation-maintenance-patrol-inspection of the robot. The on-spot application showed that the reliability and the safety control of equipment operation and the convenience of maintenance were improved.

      Real-time dynamic scheduling for garment sewing process based on deep reinforcement learning
      LIU Feng, XU Jie, KE Wenbo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  41-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220407908
      Abstract ( 390 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (3933KB) ( 151 )   Save
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      The garment sewing process is prone to interference caused by dynamic events. With the objective of minimizing the completion cycle, a deep reinforcement learning-based real-time dynamic scheduling method for the garment sewing process was proposed for the dynamic events of real-time order arrival. A scheduling optimization model of garment sewing process was established, and the problem was transformed into a sequential decision problem based on Markov decision process. By defining state features, action set, reward function, exploration and exploitation strategy, combined with the DDQN algorithm to train a deep neural network to describe the state-action value, the most appropriate scheduling rule was selected at the decision node. Experiments show that for the sewing process of the front panel of jeans, the proposed method is 2.3% inferior to the genetic algorithm in achieving the scheduling goal, but the decision-making time is greatly reduced by 91.4%. The method is useful to achieve effective real-time response and ensure the efficiency and continuity of sewing production for the scheduling problem of dynamic order arrival.

      Design principles and methods for collaborative manufacturing platform of textile and garment agglomeration area
      SUN Peng, TAO Fei, ZHU Kaizhen, MA Yingzheng, MA Zhiying, ZHANG Boqiang, GAO Heng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  49-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220407609
      Abstract ( 224 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (5220KB) ( 68 )   Save
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      Aiming at sharing and rational allocation of manufacturing resources under the network collaborative manufacturing environment of small and medium-sized enterprises in a textile and garment agglomeration area, the design principles and methods for a collaborative manufacturing platform of textile and garment agglomeration area were proposed and the characteristics of network collaborative manufacturing in textile and garment agglomeration area were analyzed. Through the collaborative manufacturing mode design and analysis for product life cycle network under a textile and garment agglomeration area of central China, this paper proposed the resource allocation and production organization methods of network collaborative manufacturing method for agglomeration area in details. Based on this, a network collaborative manufacturing software platform for textile and garment agglomeration areas were studied and constructed. It is shown that the development and operation of the software platform would effectively solve the problems of network collaborative manufacturing task allocation, resource allocation, and collaborative process management among the enterprises for textile and garment agglomeration area. The network collaborative manufacturing platform has applied for the enterprises in the agglomeration area, and the equipment utilization and resource allocation efficiency have been greatly improved.

      Fiber Materials
      Effect of coagulation bath on structure and properties of regenerated collagen fibers
      DU Xuan, DING Changkun, YUE Chengfei, SU Jieliang, YAN Xuhuan, CHENG Bowen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  58-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210801506
      Abstract ( 287 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (6008KB) ( 101 )   Save
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      To understand the forming mechanism of collagen(Col) dopes in different coagulation baths, regenerated collagen fibers were prepared via dry-wet spinning method using acetone, NaCl solution, polyvinyl alcohol(PEG) solution and phosphate buffer saline(PBS) solution as coagulation baths. The effects of coagulation conditions on the fibril structure and mechanical properties of collagen fibers were systematically studied. The results showed that collagen dopes demonstrated the fastest dehydration, aggregation and solidification rates in acetone coagulation bath, and acetone-Col fibers could achieve the tensile strength of up to 1.22 cN/dtex with highly ordered and tightly packed small fibrils. In addition, for NaCl solution, PEG solution and PBS solution, collagen fibers were all precipitated by removing the hydration layers on their surfaces, and PBS solution displayed a very slow dehydration rate because its salt concentration was low. However, the tensile strength of PBS-Col fibers was relatively high as well due to homogeneous tightly arranged fibrils with larger size. Furthermore, NaCl-Col fibers and PEG-Col fibers showed relatively lower tensile strength because of larger fibrils with more loosely package and bigger gaps, leading to lowered intermolecular interactions among fibrils.

      Rapid preparation and properties of structural colored calcium alginate fibers triggered by magnetic field
      YANG Chunli, ZHOU Weixian, LIANG Jinglong, LIN Guizhen, LIU Jie, NI Yanpeng, LIU Yun, SHANG Shenglong, ZHU Ping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  64-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210800506
      Abstract ( 241 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (16529KB) ( 326 )   Save
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      To prepare structural colored calcium alginate fibers with high color saturation and satisfactory mechanical properties, magnetic particles were prepared by solvothermal method before dispersing them in the polyethylene glycol diacrylate. A structural color coating was constructed on the surface of calcium alginate fibers by self-assembly of magnetic particles, and factors affecting the color rendering and mechanical properties of the fiber were analyzed. The results show that when the diameters of the magnetic particle are 125, 145 and 190 nm, blue, green and red structural colors were obtained after curing on the surface of calcium alginate fibers, respectively. The coatings of magnetic particles structure color can better achieved on calcium alginate fiber, and the main component is cubic Fe3O4. The mechanical properties of the structural colored calcium alginate fibers have been significantly improved, and the breaking strength has been increased from 78 cN to 158, 162 and 169 cN, respectively, along with the improved elongation at break.

      Preparation and properties of tetrahydrofuran homopolyether-polybutyleneterephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate parallel composite fiber
      HE Qi, LI Junling, JIN Gaoling, LIU Jin, KE Fuyou, CHEN Ye, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  70-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210706806
      Abstract ( 225 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (2412KB) ( 102 )   Save
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      In view of insufficient crimp elasticity and poor wearing comfort of polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate (PBT/PET) parallel composite fibers, tetrahydrofuran homopolyether (PTMG) was selected to modify PBT and conventional PET were used as raw materials to prepare PTMG-PBT/PET parallel composite fibers by composite spinning. The effect of PTMG mass fraction on the properties of polyether ester and composite fibers, and the crimp properties of composite fibers by heat treatment process were studied. The results show that with the increase of the mass fraction of PTMG, the water absorption and moisture absorption rate of polyether ester can reach 4.10% and 1.62% respectively, the contact angle can reach 63.81°, and the crimping performance of the composite fiber is also significantly improved, reaching a crimp ratio of 48%. Heat treatment can further improve the crimp properties of composite fibers and the effect of wet heat treatment is shown to be better than that of dry heat treatment. After wet heat treatment, the crimp ratio and crimp recovery of the composite fibers reach 70% and 55%, respectively. PTMG can also improve the normal pressure dye uptake rate of composite fibers, which reaches as high as 93.25%, and is 12% higher than that of PBT/PET parallel composite fibers.

      Simulation analysis of filtration characteristics of fiber materials based on random algorithm
      ZHU Wenni, XU Runnan, HU Diefei, YAO Juming, MILITKY Jiri, KREMENAKOVA Dana, ZHU Guocheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  76-81.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210705406
      Abstract ( 185 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (4657KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to understand flow field evolution of fiber-based air filter, a three-dimensional model, integrated filtration efficiency and particle flow path, was established based on the random algorithm fiber air filter material. The computational hydro dynamics following the Euler-Lagrange discrete phase model was studied in gas-solid flow characteristics based on the Reynolds similarity criterion in micron fiber medium. The results show that the change in inlet velocity has a significant effect on the flow field pressure and velocity field distribution. With the increase in inlet velocity, the blocked area increases, and high-speed flow and velocity vortices are more likely to be formed in the flow field voids, and the overall velocity difference increases at the same time. The pressure loss is positively correlated with the inlet velocity. The filtration efficiency of the fiber model is relatively stable for particles with average particle size of 8-18 mm, which is 80.4%-84%, and the relationship between filtration efficiency and particle size is close to direct proportion when the inlet velocity is 2 m/s.

      Cocoon image fusion method based on ellipse overlapping area
      SUN Weihong, LI Yu, LIANG Man, SHAO Tiefeng, GAO Minghui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  82-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210601707
      Abstract ( 186 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (6090KB) ( 40 )   Save
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      Aiming at the appearance of boundary lines of the cocoon in the high latitude area when using the existing linear weight assignment method to fuse cocoon images, a cocoon image fusion method based on elliptical overlapping area was proposed. The equivalent ellipse of the cocoon surface in the image to be spliced was obtained by using the least squares fitting algorithm, and its position equation in the image coordinates was output. A mathematical model of cocoon image fusion was then established according to the displacement along the horizontal and vertical axes obtained in the image registration process, and the point set of the overlapping area of the equivalent ellipse was obtained. An improved trigonometric function weight algorithm was established through the maximum width of the ellipse overlapping area to fuse the ellipse overlapping area. The experimental results show that the fusion effect of this method is better than the fading in and out algorithms and trigonometric function weight algorithms, which can effectively eliminate the boundary line of the cocoon, and obtain a cocoon fusion image with good visual effect and more information.

      Textile Engineering
      Finite element modeling and simulation of cotton fiber assembly compression based on three-dimensional braided model
      WU Fan, LI Yong, CHEN Xiaochuan, WANG Jun, XU Minjun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  89-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210302706
      Abstract ( 348 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (7387KB) ( 96 )   Save
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      In order to analyze the stress of cotton fiber assembly in compression and improve the quality of cotton bales, a new model for three-dimensional braided composites is established. In this model, cotton fiber bundles were assumed to have the same circular cross-section and arranged according to the three-cell structure of three-dimensional four-direction braided composites. The model was subjected to compression analysis assuming a cotton fiber assembly, and the relationship between compressive stress and relative density was analyzed with the variation of cotton fiber stress. In addition, the influence of moisture regain on the compressive stress of cotton fiber assembly was analyzed. The results show that the stress of cotton fiber assembly decreases first and then increases as the moisture regain is increased. When the moisture regain is between 8.8% and 12.3%, the stress of cotton fiber is the minimum. The finite element analysis results are consistent with the experimental results, demonstrating the validity of the model.

      Preparation and properties of skin-core structure micro/nano fiber composite yarns
      HU Chengye, ZHOU Xinru, FAN Mengjing, HONG Jianhan, LIU Yongkun, HAN Xiao, ZHAO Xiaoman
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210906806
      Abstract ( 239 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (5709KB) ( 141 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the effect of spinning solution mass fraction on the structure and properties of skin-core structure micro/nano fiber composite yarn, a composite yarn with polyethylene terephthalate(PET) as core and polyamide 6(PA6) nanofiber as skin was prepared by the two-needle water bath electrospinning method. The morphology structure, thermal and mechanical properties of PET/PA6 composite yarns were characterized by scanning electron microscope, differential scanning calorimeter and universal material testing machine. The results revealed the relationships between the different mass fraction of PA6 spinning solution and the skin-core structure. The average diameter of nanofibers increased from (61.99±13.08) nm to (150.22±21.53) nm, and the crystallinity increased from 16.28% to 20.63% when the mass fraction of PA6 spinning solution increased from 10% to 20%. When the mass fraction of PA6 spinning solution was 20%, the crystallinity reached the crystallization range of the conventional PA6 fibers. Increasing the mass fraction of spinning solution was also found to improve the mechanical properties of composite yarn to some extent.

      Tracking and detection hairiness path in yarns
      DENG Zhongmin, YU Dongyang, HU Haodong, LI Tong, KE Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  101-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210600906
      Abstract ( 232 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (3121KB) ( 52 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the existing yarn hairiness detection methods cannot effectively detect curving and crossing hairiness, this paper presents a yarn hairiness path tracing algorithm based on an image analysis method. The backbone processed images were obtained by the pre-processing followed by backbone processing. The hairiness endpoint was taken as the starting point, and the new hairiness path point was obtained by judging the eight neighboring pixels of hairiness starting point, the neighborhood of hairiness path points was judged repeatedly until no hairiness path points existed. In the case of multi-path intersection of hairiness, the cross-matching value index was proposed. According to the slope of the adjacent hairiness path points in front of the cross point of hairiness and assigning dynamic weight to get the local slope of hairiness, cross-matching value was used to match the multi-path hairiness points to get the new hairiness points, and the number of hairiness pixels was obtained and converted into the hairiness length by the hairiness tracking method. According to the comparison of the detection results coming from the manual method and projection method, the error between the detected result of hairiness tracking and the manual inspection was less than 4%. This result indicated an effective solution to the problem in tracking and detecting the crossing and curving hairiness, improving the detection accuracy of yarn hairiness.

      Preparation and properties of aramid/flame retardant viscose/flame retardant polyamide blended fabrics
      CHEN Junxian, LI Weiping, FU Qixuan, FENG Xinxing, ZHANG Hua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  107-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210809408
      Abstract ( 437 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (3246KB) ( 175 )   Save
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      In order to obtain fabrics with long-term flame retardancy, which are strong, wear-resistant and with satisfactory wearability, aramid 1414, flame retardant viscose and flame retardant polyamide were blended for producing woven flame retardant fabrics. The influence of fiber blend ratio, strand twist, fabric structure and adhesive types on the mechanical properties, flame retardancy and color fastness of the fabric was discussed. The results show that the aramid 1414/flame retardant viscose/flame retardant polyamide blend ratio 30/45/25 leads to optimal mechanical properties and flame retardancy. Compared with the fabric using aramid/flame retardant viscose blended yarn, the 3-component yarn demonstrates a 56% increase in breaking strength, 58% increase in abrasion resistance. The mechanical properties of the yarn are improved as the twist level increases and peak at 680 twist/m, but decrease with further increase of yarn twist. The flame retardancy and mechanical properties of the fabric with twill weave are better than that of fabrics with plain weave and satin weave. By using non-ionic acrylate copolymer G-BD as binder in printing paste, the color fastness grade of the high-strength, wear-resistant and flame retardant fabric can be kept above grade 2 after washing for 20 times.

      Preparation of 3D printed weft plain knitted fabric
      CHENG Yanting, MENG Jiaguang, XUE Tao, ZHI Chao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  115-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210400305
      Abstract ( 248 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (5283KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to study the structure of weft plain knitted clothing fabrics produced by 3D printed, predict its printing effect and improve the digital and intelligent production of knitting fabrics, 3D printing technology was applied to the design and production of knitting fabrics. 3ds Max software was used to model the weft plain knitted fabric based on the NURBS curve modeling method and the Peirce loop model. The visualization of 3D printed weft plain knitted fabric was achieved and the printing effect was able to be predicted through simulation. Repetier-Host software was used to slice the simulated 3D printed weft plain knitted fabric model. The printing parameters were set and the model slice data was printed by fused deposition modeling technology, the 3D printed weft plain knitted fabrics were obtained. The results show that the effect of the printed fabrics is highly consistent with the simulated effects, and the intermeshing relationship between the loops is obvious. The printed fabrics are smooth and flat and the printing accuracy is high. The printed fabrics are environmental friendly fabrics.

      Green innovation and development of textile industry under dual carbon goals
      DU Huanzheng, LIU Jiancheng, LU Sha
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  120-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220307009
      Abstract ( 565 )   HTML ( 44 )   PDF (4143KB) ( 202 )   Save
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      In order to assist the textile industry to achieve the dual carbon goal, factors hindering the reduction of the textile industry carbon emissions are summarized. Based on the six-stage textile production lifecycle, including fiber manufacture, yarn and fabric production, dyeing and finishing, garment manufacturing, consumption and recycling, this paper summarized previous green innovation related literature in China and abroad. Addionally, a 4R(i.e., raise, replace, renew and regulate)carbon reduction strategy is proposed. On this basis, the green innovation path of textile industry is suggested from four directions: upgrading the industry structure, increasing the clean energy proportion, promoting the concept of green consumption, and improving the recycling system. It is suggested to achieve carbon peak and carbon neutrality in the textile industry in conjunction with adopting the carbon sink, carbon capture and storage, carbon trading and other management methods.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Preparation of nanoscale capsulated disperse dyes and their washing-free dyeing performance
      FU Zheng, LI Min, HE Yingting, WANG Chunxia, FU Shaohai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  129-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210700308
      Abstract ( 257 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (11469KB) ( 88 )   Save
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      To achieve the washing-free dyeing of disperse dyes, methyl methacrylate(MMA) and butyl acrylate(BA) were initiated by polymerizing 2,2'-azobis (2-methylpropionamidine) dihydrochlo-ride(AIBA) on the surface of C.I. Disperse Violet 93 dye particles to form P (MMA-co-BA) shell in order to prepare nanoscale capsulated disperse dyes. The effects of reaction time, reaction temperature, initiator dosage, and core-shell ratio on the coating process were investigated. The optimal reaction conditions were identified as temperature 70 ℃, reaction time 3 h, initiator to monomer mass fraction 3%. The study results show that the Zeta potential of nanoscale capsulated disperse dyes is -61.1 mV, demonstrating significant thermal stability improvement. When applied to avoid water dyeing polyester and polyester/cotton fabric, the color fastness of the fabric dyed with the nanoscale capsulated disperse dye is improved by 1 to 2 grades without causing any obvious disturbance to the dyeing process. The breaking strength of such dyed fabric increased about 10%, and the chemical oxygen demand value of the soap-washing residual solution is reduced by more than 30%.

      Printing and photochromic properties of spiropyran microcapsules on cotton fabrics
      YANG Mengfan, WANG Chaoxia, YIN Yunjie, QIU Hua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  137-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210507506
      Abstract ( 279 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (6677KB) ( 66 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a photochromic textile for detecting ultraviolet(UV) intensity, microcapsules with spiropyran photochromic material as core material and polymethylmethacrylate as wall material were prepared by solvent volatilization method for printing cotton fabrics. The particle size, surface topography, core encapsulation efficiency and photochromic properties of the prepared microcapsules were characterized. A self-made color gradation chart was used to record the photochromic color difference of the photochromic textile. The effects of UV irradiation conditions on the photochromic properties and printing process on the rubbing color fastness of cotton fabrics were investigated. The results showed that the average particle size of spiropyran microcapsules was 729 nm, and the polydispersity index was 0.34. In a certain range, the photochromic color difference increased with the increase of microcapsule dosage, UV irradiation time and UV intensity. The color difference of printed fabric with 14% microcapsule content can reach 19.02 after UV irradiation at 30 W/m2 for 100 s, and the color fastness to dry rubbing of the printed fabric can reach grade 4-5 and the color fastness to wet rubbing can reach grade 4. The photochromic performance lost 12.26% after 20 UV-Vis cycles.

      Comparison of test methods for permethrin content in polyamide fabrics
      CHENG Lüzhu, WANG Zongqian, SHENG Hongmei, ZHONG Hui, XIA Liping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  143-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210405906
      Abstract ( 215 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4916KB) ( 43 )   Save
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      In order to study the characteristics of different methods for testing and characterization of permethrin content in textiles, and to explore rapid test methods, permethrin mosquito repellent was used to finish polyamide fabrics by spraying. The polyamide fabrics treated with different concentrations of permethrin were characterized by digital microsystem, scanning electron microscope, Fourier infrared spectrometer, gas chromatography, X-ray photoelectron spectrometer and ultraviolet (UV)/visible/near infrared spectrometer. The results show that the use of optical, scanning electron microscope images and infrared spectroscopy is able to quickly characterize the surface characteristics of polyamide fabrics after permethrin treatment, but it is difficult to achieve accurate quantitative analysis. Gas chromatography and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy can be used for quantitative analysis, but they are time-consuming with high cost. UV absorption spectrum can meet the rapid quantitative analysis of permethrin content in polyamide fabric, and the test results have a high agreement with the test results of X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, with a fitting coefficient of 0.985.

      Preparation of modified polyacrylonitrile fiber supported MoSx/TiO2 composite photocatalyst and its performance for dye degradation
      YANG Li, WANG Tao, SHI Xianbing, HAN Zhenbang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  149-155.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210705507
      Abstract ( 180 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (9269KB) ( 51 )   Save
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      To improve the photocatalytic performance of MoSx/TiO2 heterojunction, amorphous MoSx was anchored onto amidoximated polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fiber via an adsorption and in-situ transformation method, and then TiO2 was immobilized onto the fibrous support in order to synthesize a composite photocatalyst. The morphology, chemical structure and optical property of the photocatalyst were investigated, and its photocatalytic performance on the oxidation of dye wastewater was evaluated under visible light irradiation. The results show that MoSx and TiO2 can be uniformly distributed onto the fibrous surface, and the MoSx significantly enhances the light absorption of the photocatalyst. The as-prepared photocatalyst could achieve the fast oxidative degradation of the dye wastewater under light irradiation with wavelength greater than 500 nm, resulting in a 4.7-fold higher reaction kinetics versus the reaction system over single TiO2 supported fibrous photocatalyst. In addition, the photocatalyst exhibited high recycling ability for dye degradation. This high photocatalytic activity mainly originates from the enhanced adsorption performance towards pollutants by MoSx, as well as the sensitization effect of MoSx to TiO2 under visible light irradiation.

      Dye and heavy metal adsorption performance of zero-valent iron/graphene oxide blend absorbent
      WANG Shuangshuang, JI Zhihao, SHENG Guodong, JIN Enqi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  156-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210603311
      Abstract ( 249 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (6439KB) ( 50 )   Save
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      In order to combat the serious pollution caused by dyes and heavy metal Cr(Ⅵ) in acid dye, zero-valent iron (Fe0)/graphene oxide (GO) compound was used as an adsorbent. The aqueous solutions containing Weak Acid Blue AS dye and heavy metal Cr(Ⅵ), respectively, were employed to simulate dye wastewater. The effects of the mass ratio of Fe0 and GO, the pH value of solution, and the initial mass concentration of dye and Cr(Ⅵ) on the adsorption performance were analyzed. The adsorption mechanism of Fe0/GO blend adsorbent for acid dye and Cr(Ⅵ) was investigated, and the adsorption thermodynamics and kinetics were studied. The results show that Fe0/GO blend adsorbent has the best adsorption capacity when the weight ratio is 4∶1. When the initial concentration of dye wastewater is 75 mg/L at 30 ℃ and pH is 4.0, the removal percentage is 85.6% after 12 h, and the maximum adsorption capacity reaches 85.6 mg/g. When the initial concentration of Cr(Ⅵ) is 75 mg/L at 30 ℃ and pH is 3.0, the removal percentage reaches 95.8% after 12 h, and the maximum adsorption capacity reaches 95.8 mg/g. The adsorption processes to both acid dye and Cr(Ⅵ) were both in accordance with the Langmuir model and the pseudo-second-order kinetic model.

      Apparel Engineering
      Effect of clothing deformation on thermal insulation capacity of down jackets
      WU Daiwei, HUANG Jiacheng, WANG Yunyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  167-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210802708
      Abstract ( 343 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (5395KB) ( 116 )   Save
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      To explore the influence of clothing deformation on the thermal insulation capacity of down jackets, a belt tightening method was used to deform the clothing with deformation levels. Four levels of down fill weight, 110, 135, 150, 180 g/m2, representing light, ordinary, midweight, and weight protective down jackets, were adopted to make sample down jackets. The thermal resistance of these samples, as well as the local volume which consists of the sample and the air layer under it under different deformation levels were obtained by thermal manikin test, respectively. The influence of clothing deformation on the total and local thermal resistance of down jackets was then investigated and analyzed. The results show that the deformation of down jackets will change the state of air flow inside the down jackets, having influence on the thermal insulation capacity of down jackets depending on different down fill weight. There exists a degree of deformation that leads to the optimal thermal insulation capacity of the down jackets. Local thermal insulation value of clothing and the range and regularity of its variation affected by deformation are associated with the concave and convex body surface, and with the clothing openings.

      Automatic pattern-making of Chinese wedding dress based on AutoCAD parameterization
      ZHOU Yanhong, JIANG Hongxia, CHEN Ling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  175-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210806507
      Abstract ( 335 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (6186KB) ( 84 )   Save
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      In view of the cumbersome process of drawing traditional Chinese wedding dress patterns and the lack of relevance in structural design, three Chinese wedding dresses, namely dragon and phoenix gown, Xiuhe gown and Malay gown, were selected as the research objects, and the patterns were quickly generated by combining the parametric function into the use of AutoCAD. The single and double arcs were used to fit the pattern structure curve and the dragon and phoenix gown structure design model was built through the parameterization function of AutoCAD, which mainly includes the setting the constraints of each object of the body prototype, the initial size of the prototype and the amount of parameter adjustment. The parameter values were readjusted according to the style characteristics of Xiuhe gown and Malay gown before the automatic generation of the patterns for changing gown styles. The CLO3D software was used to virtual display the effect of ready-to-wear. The research results show that by analyzing the similarity of the three Chinese wedding dress structures, the Chinese wedding dress patterns can be automatically generated using one as the prototype and the others as variants, and a series of style wedding dresses can be derived to meet the diversity of Chinese wedding dress structural changes.

      Distribution characteristics of local skin moisture sensitivity of human in thermal environment
      LI Ningning, ZHANG Zhaohua, XU Suhong, ZHENG Ziyi, LI Xiaoyu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  182-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210805506
      Abstract ( 327 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (3082KB) ( 74 )   Save
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      In order to study the distribution characteristics of local skin moisture sensitivity of human under thermal environment and the relationship between objective physical humidity and human subjective moisture feeling, the body fitted one-piece experimental clothes were made of elastic knitted fabric for tests in the artificial climate cabin (the temperature is (30±1) ℃ and the relative humidity is (35±1)%). Six female subjects wore the experimental clothes and walked on the treadmill at the speed of 5 km/h. The objective physiological data and subjective evaluation data of the subjects were recorded during the experiment. The results indicated that the moisture sensitivity of human skin has some local distribution characteristics in the thermal environment. The high sensitivity areas were the upper forehead, chest and lower back, the medium sensitivity areas were upper arm, anterior abdomen, upper back, forearm and buttocks, and the low sensitivity areas were calves and thighs. The experiment confirmed that the skin humidity perception increased with the increase of physical humidity, and there was a positive correlation between humidity perception and physical humidity.

      Female leg shape classification based on frontal and lateral morphological characteristics
      WANG Fenfen, WANG Gehui, HUANG Tianyi, ZHANG Xianghui, WANG Yongrong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  188-194.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210707707
      Abstract ( 297 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (2895KB) ( 100 )   Save
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      In order to improve fitting legs with the shaping products in women's leg compression treatment, 64 subjects were scanned using the [TC]2 non-contact three-dimensional digital body scanner, each with 160 data. The overall leg collimation was classified into 3 categories by interpolation simulation and cluster analysis, before the thigh and calve were classified according to the difference in frontal and lateral thigh morphologies and the different lateral projection points of the calves. A classification system of leg shapes was established based on the factor analysis method. Based on the above study, the relationship between female leg circumference and corresponding height was obtained, and the female leg shapes were divided into 6 categories and the corresponding leg classification specification table was summarized. This study provides a new method for categorization of leg shape for females, and offers basic data for the design of compression treatment and shaping products in different parts of legs of female.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in textile surface multifunctional modification by atomic layer deposition
      YANG Huiyu, ZHOU Jingyi, DUAN Zijian, XU Weilin, DENG Bo, LIU Xin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  195-202.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210608908
      Abstract ( 242 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (3644KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to tackle the nano-particle agglomeration, poor film stability, and reduced fiber mechanical strength and flexibility when preparing multifunctional textiles from inorganic nano-films, one route is to treat the textile surface using inorganic nano-films with ultra-thin, high interfacial bonding fastness, and high-stability. This review summarizes the reaction mechanism of atomic layer deposition (ALD) and the unique advantages of preparing inorganic nano-films. The current global research progress in inorganic nano-films deposited by ALD to impart functional properties such as ultraviolet resistance, thermal insulation, antibacterial and structural color on the surface of textiles were reviewed. The advantages and disadvantages of ALD and chemical vapor deposition are compared and analyzed. The challenges and problems of ALD in the application of textile functionalization were summarized. It was pointed out that the preparation of inorganic nano-films by ALD represents an important development direction of multifunctional textiles.

      Review on toughening modification of carbon fiber/epoxy resin composites
      XU Mingtao, JI Yu, ZHONG Yue, ZHANG Yan, WANG Ping, SUI Jianhua, LI Yuanyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  203-210.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210104508
      Abstract ( 718 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (6858KB) ( 365 )   Save
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      The brittle fracture of carbon fiber/epoxy resin composites can be improved by resin toughening and fiber modification. This paper reviewed the research progress of carbon fiber reinforced epoxy resin composites from three aspects: resin modification, interface modification and structure design. The toughness of epoxy resin was improved by increasing the bonding between filled particles and resin by modifying nano materials, rubber elastomer and thermoplastic resin. The interfacial modification was mainly the surface modification of carbon fiber. By increasing the surface active functional groups of carbon fiber or enhancing the surface modification at multiple scales, the interfacial bond between carbon fiber and epoxy resin is enhanced to toughen the composites. The structural design of composite materials was focused on the design of the fiber laying angle, thickness and structure, in order to enhance the toughness of composite materials through structural optimization. Finally, the problems of the three modification methods were analyzed, and the future research directions of composite modification were pointed out based on the combination of the three modification methods.

      Research progress of brain perception technology for fabric tactile comfort
      YUAN Jie, LOU Lin, WANG Qicai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(09):  211-217.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210602507
      Abstract ( 284 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (5001KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to analyse the mechanism in brain perception of traditional textile tactile comfort, an appropriate brain perception representation technology of tactile comfort was selected for the in-situ characterization of fabric comfort perception. This paper focused on the research progress in three advanced techniques of electroencephalography, event-related potential and functional magnetic resonance imaging in the area of tactile comfort of fabrics, and analyzed and compared their instrument resolution, somatosensory recognition and detection safety. It was concluded that event-related potential was more advantageous in terms of temporal resolution, detection safety and universality, and was suitable for capturing the brain region of dynamic fabric comfort perception. In terms of spatial resolution and somatosensory recognition, functional magnetic resonance imaging was superior, which was suitable for precise positioning of brain perception of fabric comfort.