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Table of Content

    15 December 2022, Volume 43 Issue 12
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and properties of flexible structural color film based on immobilization of liquid photonic crystals
      GAO Yiping, LI Yichen, WANG Xiaohui, LIU Guojin, ZHOU Lan, SHAO Min, SHAO Jianzhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220301907
      Abstract ( 348 )   HTML ( 44 )   PDF (7041KB) ( 175 )   Save
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      Aiming at the poor structural stability of photonic crystal materials, photo-curable flexible monomers were used to replace conventional assembly medium of water to prepare liquid photonic crystals. A non-close-packed photonic crystals array was built with SiO2 nanospheres embedded in an elastomer polymerized by UV-curing, to produce a flexible photonic crystals film with structural stability. The optical properties of liquid photonic crystals were regulated and controlled by the volume fraction of SiO2 nanospheres in the colloidal system and the particle size of SiO2 nanospheres. It is revealed that as the volume fraction of SiO2 nanospheres increases from 22% to 40%, the average spacing between the microspheres gradually decreases, and the structure color shifts to blue accordingly, while fixing the volume fraction of SiO2 nanospheres causes the structural color shifts to red when increasing the particle size of SiO2 nanospheres from 123 nm to 178 nm. The liquid photonic crystals show bright color with high saturation, and after ultraviolet irradiation the target product of solid photonic crystals film shows obvious iridescent effect and excellent flexibility. The results indicate excellent force-induced color change performance and a promising application potential in the field of smart wearable textile materials.

      Preparation of catkin fiber biochar and its adsorption properties for Cr(VI) in dye wastewater
      FU Weikang, GUO Xiaojie, PAN Mengtao, SONG Juyan, XI Bojun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  8-15.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905908
      Abstract ( 234 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (3887KB) ( 99 )   Save
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      In view of the serious pollution of hexavalent chromium Cr(VI) in acid mordant dye wastewater to water environment, KOH activated biochar (CBK) and NaOH activated biochar (CBN) were prepared by oxygen limiting pyrolysis with catkin fiber. The effects of pH value of a simulated dye waste liquid and dosage of adsorbent and temperature effect on the adsorption treatment of Cr(VI) by catkin fiber biochar were studied by adsorption batch experiment. The adsorption process was fitted by kinetic and thermodynamic models to explore the adsorption and fixation mechanism of Cr(VI) by catkin fiber biochar. The results show that the specific surface area of CBK is significantly larger than that of CBN, and the surface adsorption sites are increased. When the pH value of the solution is 2, the theoretical maximum adsorption capacity of Cr(VI) by CBK and CBN is 82.68 and 47.16 mg/g respectively. The adsorption process conforms to Freundlich thermodynamic model and quasi second-order kinetic model, which means that the adsorption process is mainly multi-molecular layer adsorption, accompanied by chemical adsorption. The adsorption reaction is spontaneous and endothermic, and the increase of temperature can significantly improve the adsorption capacity of catkin fiber biomass carbon for Cr(VI).

      Structure and mechanical properties of three-dimensional porous biodegradable polymer artificial esophageal scaffold
      WANG Shudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  16-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211106106
      Abstract ( 312 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (5166KB) ( 146 )   Save
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      In order to meet the requirements of artificial esophageal scaffolds on material's structure and mechanical properties, three-dimensional porous biodegradable polymer artificial esophageal scaffolds were prepared with biodegradable polylactic acid (PLA) and polylactic acid-glycolic acid copolymer (PLGA) as raw materials, cylindrical polytetrafluoroethylene as template and sodium chloride as porogen. Morphology, microstructure and mechanical properties were characterized. The results show that the PLA and PLGA artificial esophageal scaffolds have three-dimensional porous structure. After ethanol treatment, the length, diameter and porosity of the esophageal scaffolds decrease to a certain extent. Microstructure of PLA and PLGA three-dimensional porous esophageal scaffolds is amorphous. Ethanol treatment improves the crystallinity of the two esophageal scaffolds to a certain extent. The breaking strength and suture strength of the PLA and PLGA esophageal scaffolds are (2.68±0.46) MPa, (3.68±0.98) N and (1.53±0.21) MPa, (2.21±0.65) N, respectively. After ethanol treatment, the tensile strength and suture strength of these two esophageal scaffolds are improved to a certain extent. The suture strength of the two esophageal scaffolds exceeds the suture strength that the scaffolds could bear during esophageal scaffolds transplantation.

      Preparation and electrochemical performances of melt-blown nonwovens electrode from medical mask
      WANG Hongjie, YAO Lan, WANG He, ZHANG Zhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  22-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210808608
      Abstract ( 199 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (4162KB) ( 101 )   Save
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      In order to achieve high-value application of waste medical masks in the field of energy storage, silver plating and carbon coating methods were used to treat the inner melt-blown nonwovens surface of disposable medical masks to prepare electric double-layer electrodes, and finally the supercapacitor devices were assembled. The electrochemical performances of melt-blown nonwovens electrode and as-prepared device were characterized by cyclic voltammetry, galvanostatic charge-discharge, and AC impedance methods. The results show that the specific capacitance of the electrode is as high as 298 F/g when the current density is 1 A/g and 224 F/g at the current density of 20 A/g, showing a higher rate capability (75%) with the charge transfer internal resistance and equivalent series internal resistance of the electrode being 0.86 and 0.15 Ω, respectively. The energy density of the device reaches 9.7 W·h/kg under the power density of 125 W/kg. After 10 000 charge/discharge cycles, the specific capacitance retention of the device is as high as 99.8%, indicating the excellent cycling stability.

      Preparation and charging characteristics analysis of hydro charging polypropylene melt-blown nonwovens
      WU Yanjin, WANG Jiang, WANG Hong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  29-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210604006
      Abstract ( 346 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (3246KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In order to study the charged characteristics of water electret melt-blown nonwovens, the hydro charging polypropylene melt-blown nonwoven material was prepared. The influence of water conductivity and drying temperature on the filtration performance of samples was investigated. Atomic force microscope, electrostatic potential tester and thermal stimulation discharge instrument were used to analyze the charging characteristics of the hydro charging melt-blown nonwovens. The synergistic effect of corona discharge and hydro charging was studied as well. The results show that the smaller the conductivity of the water used for the hydro charging, the higher the filtration efficiency of the obtained sample. The drying temperature did not affect the physical and filtration performance of obtained samples. After hydro charging, the potential charge of the melt-blown nonwovens increased significantly with random positive and negative distribution. The surface electrostatic potential is the result of overlapping of the electrostatic potential of each layer of the web. It is speculated that electron transfer and ion transfer occur due to frictions between the positive, negative or neutral water droplets and the fiber, resulting in the high static potential of melt-blown nonwovens.

      Preparation and properties of multilayer sound absorption materials based on waste polyphenylene sulfide filter materials
      ZHANG Shucheng, XING Jian, XU Zhenzhen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  35-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210800307
      Abstract ( 202 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3747KB) ( 58 )   Save
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      In order to recycle the waste polyphenylene sulfide(PPS)filter bag, it was treated by alkali washing, and then the multi-layer sound-absorbing composite material was prepared by combining the alkali washed filter bag and polyurethane (PU)film of different thickness and specification by hot air bonding and molding processing method. With scanning electron microscope, vertical combustion tester, electronic fabric strength machine and noise vibration test system, the morphological characteristics, flame retardancy, mechanical properties, sound absorption and insulation properties of PPS+PU+PPS and PPS+PU+PPS+PU+PPS were characterized. The results show that a small amount of dust particles remain on the surface of the alkali washed filter bag, but there was no trace of fiber damage and fracture. There were more pores between fibers, and the pores between composite fibers were reduced with a densified interior. Compared with the single-layer PPS filter material, the flame retardancy of the treated composite remained to be satisfactory. For the same structure, its mechanical properties were positively correlated with the thickness of PU film. For the two structures, The sound absorption coefficient shows the same change characteristics, and its size is negatively correlated with the film thickness, up to 0.27 in the high-frequency stage. However, the transmission loss is negatively correlated with the film thickness, and the PPS+PU+PPS+PU+PPS structure is up to 41 dB in the high-frequency stage.

      Structural characteristics and sound absorption performance of waste corn straw
      LÜ Lihua, LI Zhen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  42-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210906506
      Abstract ( 287 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (6401KB) ( 105 )   Save
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      In order to recycle effectively the waste corn straw, sound-absorbing composites with a thickness of 1.5 cm were prepared by hot pressing the waste straw pellets with length of 1.5 mm, 6 mm, and 10 mm, cotton fiber and hemp fiber as reinforcement materials, and polycaprolactone as the matrix material. The sound absorption capabilities of the composites were evaluated and compared using the acoustic impedance transfer function approach. The results demonstrate that the 1.5 mm length of waste corn straw is suitable for the creation of sound-absorbing composites because it has the best sound absorption performance, with a maximum absorption coefficient of 0.71, an average absorption coefficient of 0.50, and a noise reduction coefficient of 0.51. The oxyhexacyclic structure on the main chain in corn straw cellulose macromolecule provides the basis for repeated reflection and refraction of sound waves. The high linearity enables the hydrogen bonds and other single bonds to rotate freely, which increases the consumption of sound energy. Moreover, the low crystallinity of waste corn straw makes the sound energy easy to propagate along the molecular chain, thus converting the sound energy into the vibration dissipation of the molecular chain.

      Textile Engineering
      Design of simulation and control system for sliver blending
      LI Hao, CAO Qiaoli, LI Jiawei, HAN Zhenning, YU Chongwen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  48-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211006806
      Abstract ( 244 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (14318KB) ( 114 )   Save
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      In order to obtain the distribution data of multi-component fibers in the blended yarn after the blending process, and to predict the quality indexes such as the blending irregularity and the unevenness of the sliver, MatLab software was used to simulate the motion state of the multi-component fibers in the process of sliver blending, and a visual operation platform was designed to build a simulation and control system. The simulation results were compared to the experimental results, revealing good agreements with different process parameters for blending. The simulation process is fast and visual. This system accurately predicts and control the shape and quality of blended yarns, and the work provides reference for the optimization of process parameters for practical production.

      Influencing factors on wrapping twist and twist distribution in hollow spindle spinning
      AO Limin, SU Juan, TANG Wen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  54-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210107308
      Abstract ( 291 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (6540KB) ( 46 )   Save
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      In order to explore the factors affecting the wrapping twist and twist distribution, the additional twists produced by the yarn unwinding of the outer wrapping yarn and the twist of the core yarn under the wrapping tension, as well as the size and fluctuation of the additional twist were analyzed. Twist test and comparative analysis of the covered yarn spun with different core yarn speed, linear density, tension and uneven thickness core yarn were carried out. The results show that the twist direction of the additional twists generated by the unwinding of the outer wrapping yarn is the same as the wrapping twist direction, while the twist direction of the additional twist generated by the twisting of the core yarn is opposite to the wrapping twist direction. Depending on the spinning process, the combined effect of the two types additional twists determines the deviation size and distribution uniformity of the wrapping twist. The wrapping twist has the similar twist distribution characteristics to the yarn twist, and the unevenness of core yarn significantly affects the evenness of short-term twist distribution, with less twisting at thick places and more twisting at thin places.

      Design and 3-D simulation of weft knitted wrap fabric
      CHEN Yushan, JIANG Gaoming, LI Bingxian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  62-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606907
      Abstract ( 302 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (8425KB) ( 149 )   Save
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      In order to facilitate the design and three-dimensional simulation of weft knitted wrap fabric, the pattern model and the structure model were constructed, and the knitting action matrix model of the fabric was obtained through the transformation relationship between them, and the fabric structure were digitally stored. Basis on in-depth study in the structural characteristics of this type of fabric, the basic model of the loop structure in the ideal fabric state was established, and the positions of various value points in the loop were determined. Using WebGL technology for programming on the Visual Studio platform, the simulation of all types of weft knitted wrap fabrics was performed. This method led to the systematic design simulation of such fabrics effectively despite the design complexity. The results show that this method can reduce the design difficulty and achieve better appearance simulation effect.It overcomes the shortcomings arising from the complex design method, long design cycle and low production efficiency of knitted wrap fabric, and promotes the market application of knitted wrap fabric.

      Study on damage performance of silicon carbide fiber bundles in braiding process
      GUO Weina, XIN Sanfa, HU Wenfeng, GAO Yantao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  69-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210904006
      Abstract ( 191 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (8483KB) ( 81 )   Save
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      In view of the problem that the abrasion of silicon carbide (SiC) fiber bundles during the braiding process will lead to decrease of its braidability, the frictional behavior between SiC fiber bundles and mechanical components was simulated by a self-made load controllable clamping fixture based on the conventional clamping force machine (Y731D). The effects of normal load, friction speed and cyclic number of frictions on the wear behavior of SiC fiber bundles were investigated. The study shows that the tensile fracture of SiC fibers exhibited obvious brittle fracture behavior, the number of frictional fracture cycles of SiC fiber bundles decreased significantly with the increase of normal load and frictional speed, and the tensile strength and elongation at break decreased significantly with the increase of friction times. After 100 times cyclic friction, the tensile strength and elongation at break of SiC fiber bundles are decreased by 73% and 53%, respectively, compared with the original sample. It is observed that the major type of damages experienced by the SiC fiber bundles are fiber dispersion, fiber pick and fiber fracture.

      Prediction of pore dimension in composite nonwovens based on image simulation and support vector machine
      JIN Guanxiu, ZHU Chengyan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  75-81.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210607107
      Abstract ( 160 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (3576KB) ( 64 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of nonwoven compounding on pore dimension in composite nonwovens between before and after compounded, the nonwoven webs was modeled based on the use of digital images taking into considerations of fiber number, the average fiber diameter and the variation coefficient of fiber diameter served as the model variables. Thus the image model of composite nonwoven was then obtained by superimposing two compound elements. The pore size percentage difference (Er) and the average pore size variation coefficient (Mv) of two compound elements were used to characterize the pore dimension of nonwoven before compounded. Furthermore, the pore size composite index (IP) and pore size variation coefficient composite index (IV) were used to characterize the pore dimension after compounding. The test results show that there is a complex non-linear relationship on pore dimension between before and after compounding. Er and Mv were used as the inputs of support vector machine model to predict IP and IV, respectively. The results indicate that the mean absolute percentage errors of the above two predictions are only 1.84% and 1.92%, respectively. The verification experiment result further confirms the high prediction accuracy of the support vector machine model.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Optimizing microorganism degumming process of apocynum and bacterial screening
      CHENG Fen, ZHANG Xingqun, WANG Yunlong, WANG Ying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  82-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211108006
      Abstract ( 249 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2638KB) ( 52 )   Save
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      In order to improve the efficiency of apocynum degumming, dominant degumming strains was screened from the soil of the wild hemp growth area of Urumqi, Xinjiang using the transparent zones method, DNS colorimetry method and 16S rRNA sequencing. The superior degumming strains were used to optimize the microbial degumming process of apocynum by the orthogonal experiment designed in this study. The experimental results show that seven dominant degumming strains with higher pectinase, xylanase and low cellulase are theoretically suitable for practical applications of apocynum degumming, which belong to four genera including Bacillus, Enterobacter, Klebsiella and Pantoea. The optimal parameters optimized by orthogonal tests are initial pH 7 of the degumming solution, bath ratio of 1:40 and shaker speed of 90 r/min. Using the optimization process parameters, the residual gum rate of complex bacteria can be reduced to 30.45%, the degumming effect is improved and thus the best method is degumming with 7 strains, because a stable degumming colony is formed between strains among which the synergism and antagonism may affect the degumming ability.

      Preparation of modified carbonyl iron powder based on magnetron rough surface construction and its application in blue light curing superhydrophobic film
      QIAO Luyang, LÜ Qiaoli, HU Qianheng, WANG Chenglong, ZHENG Jinhuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  88-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905408
      Abstract ( 205 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (5261KB) ( 47 )   Save
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      In view of the uncontrollable movement of functional particles in the curing process of superhydrophobic coating film, high energy consumption and long time consuming in traditional thermal curing process, the superhydrophobic film was prepared by modifying carbonyl iron powder and combining magnetic control technology and blue light curing technology. The optimal modification process was determined by analyzing the effects of modifier ratio, dosage, modified pH value and temperature on the modification effect of carbonyl iron powder, before the effects of magnetic field intensity on the surface contact angle and morphology of UV curable films were studied. The results show that when the mass ratio of modifier 3-(methacryloyloxy) propyl trimethoxysilane to 1H, 1H, 2H, 2H-perfluoro sunnyl trimethoxysilane is 1:3, the mass fraction is 20%, the modified pH value is 6, the modified temperature is 75 ℃ and the modified time is 1.5 h, the surface modification effect of carbonyl iron powder is the best with activity reaching 96% and the absolute value of zeta potential increasing from 22 mV to 43 mV. With the increase of magnetic field intensity, the surface contact angle of the film increases continuously. When the magnetic field intensity is set to 75 mT, the surface contact angle of the superhydrophobic film reaches 157.6° and the rolling angle is 6°, which meets the superhydrophobic standard.

      Effect of reactive dye structure on performance of colored polymer nanospheres
      ZHANG Shuai, FANG Kuanjun, LIU Xiuming, QIAO Xiran
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  96-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211104106
      Abstract ( 232 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (3494KB) ( 105 )   Save
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      In order to improve the dye loading and coloring properties of the colored polymer nanospheres, polymer nanospheres with different colors were prepared by cationic composite nanospheres and reactive dyes which contain different amounts of sulfonic acid groups. The effects of the concentrations of sulfonic acid-based reactive dyes on the dye adsorption, particle size and zeta potential of the colored polymer nanospheres were investigated by equilibrium dialysis, transmission electron microscopy and nanoparticle size/Zeta potential analyzer. The results show that the more sulfonic acid groups were on the cationic nanospheres the greater was the adsorption of reactive dyes at the same dye concentration. When the number of sulfonic acid groups was the same, the more hydrophobic the reactive dyes were, the greater the adsorption amount on the cationic nanospheres. In addition, the amount of dye adsorbed by the color polymer nanospheres increased with increasing dye concentration. The absolute value of Zeta potential decreased followed by an increase, while the average hydrated particle size increased first and then decreased.

      Ink-jet printed circuit of gallium-indium alloy liquid metal based on polyamide film
      ZHAO Zhiwei, WANG Zixi, YANG Shiyu, HU Yi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  102-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211002307
      Abstract ( 190 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (7985KB) ( 49 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that it is difficult to wet the substrate due to great surface tension of gallium-indium alloy(EGaIn) liquid metal (LM), a suitable surfactant was selected and a stable EGaIn electronic ink was fabricated by the probe ultrasonic method. The micro-morphology and surface element distribution of liquid metal nanospheres were characterized by scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and X-ray energy dispersion spectroscopy, and the best preparation process was optimized. The patterned conductive circuit was successfully prepared on the polyamide filter film by ink-jet printing to test its electrical conductivity. The results show that when polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) is used as surfactant, PVP is added to 200 mg, ultrasonic time is longer than 30 min, the electronic ink shows excellent dispersion stability. The resistance of the patterned circuit after sintering reached lower than 150 Ω after printing more than 6 times, and a LED was lit successfully.

      Synthesis and properties of cationic modified flame retardant polyester fabrics
      ZHANG Chudan, WANG Rui, WANG Wenqing, LIU Yanyan, CHEN Rui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  109-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211001709
      Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (23291KB) ( 73 )   Save
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      In order to improve the moisture absorption, dyeing and antibacterial properties of flame retardant polyester fabrics, polymer coatings with different molecular weights, including poly (2-(methacryloyloxy)ethyl) dimethyl- (3-sulfopropyl)ammonium hydroxide(PSBMA), poly (2-(methacryloyloxy)ethyl) trimethylammonium chloride solution(PMTAC) and their block copolymer PSBMA-b-PMTAC, were grafted separately on the surface of flame retardant polyethylene terephthalate (FRPET) fabrics via polydopamine mediated surface initiated atom transfer radical polymerization (SI-ATRP) technology. The surface morphology, water absorption, moisture permeability, air permeability, dyeing, bacteriostatic and flame retardant properties of these surface modified FRPET fabrics were characterized and tested to study the changes of flame retardancy, moisture permeability, bacteriostatic and dyeing properties of FRPET after surface modification. The results indicated that the peak heat release rate of block copolymer PSBMA-b-PMTAC modified FRPET fabrics reduced 60.7% comparing to that of FRPET. Compared with pristine FRPET, the modified polyester fabric showed higher water absorption and satisfied the standard of woven hygroscopic products. In addition, the modified fabrics with cationic dyeing possess certain bacteriostatic performance and the bacteriostatic rate of Escherichia coli was increased by 27%.

      Preparation and application of nano-SiO2/fluorine-containing silicon waterproof and moisture-permeable finishing agent
      MEI Min, QIAN Jianhua, ZHOU Yukai, YANG Jingjing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  118-124.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210704908
      Abstract ( 211 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (4412KB) ( 76 )   Save
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      In order to improve the waterproof and moisture-permeable properties of polyester fabrics, a semi-continuous seed emulsion polymerization method was adopted, where acrylate monomers were used as polymerized monomers, nano-SiO2, dodecafluoroheptyl methacrylate (G04) and vinyl trimethoxy using silane (A-171) as functional monomer. As a result, nano-SiO2/fluorine-containing silicon modified polyacrylate emulsion was prepared and applied to polyester fabric. The chemical structure of the modified copolymer emulsion was characterized and the application performance of the finished fabric was tested. The results show that all monomers participated in the emulsion polymerization reaction, and the thermal stability of the modified copolymer emulsion was greatly improved. The average particle size of the particles is 66 nm. After adding 2% of crosslinking agent to the finishing agent, the hydrostatic pressure and washing resistance of the finished fabric were significantly improved compared with the unfinished polyester fabric, with the contact angle becoming 138°. The water-repellent performance of the finished fabric was significantly improved, the moisture permeability of the finished fabric was also increased, and the warp breaking strength was increased from 315.6 N to 493.4 N.

      Rapid determination of quinoline in textiles
      YIN Zhe, ZHAO Hailang, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping, TAN Yujing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  125-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211107106
      Abstract ( 340 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2340KB) ( 138 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the extraction time from small amount of organic reagent, a rapid analytical method for the determination of quinoline in textiles by pyrolysis/thermal desorption-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry(Py/TD-GC-MS) was established. This method requires no sample processing, and the quinoline is thermally desorbed directly in the pyrolysis/thermal desorption device before entering the GC-MS for qualitative and quantitative determination. To solve the problem of quinoline volatilization before and during the analysis process, polyvinyl chloride(PVC) was added as the adsorbent of quinoline to improve the accuracy of quinoline standard solution analysis. The thermal desorption temperature was 240 ℃, the thermal desorption time was 6 s, the heating rate was 50 ℃/min and the interface temperature was 300 ℃. The results show that the linear range of the method was 10-1 000 mg/kg, the correlation coefficient was 0.994, the limit of detection was 3.520 mg/kg, the limit of quantification was 11.760 mg/kg, the spiked recoveries were 90.02%-102.07%, and the relative standard deviation was 1.27%-4.53%. All these suggest that this method is suitable for rapid determination of quinoline in textiles.

      Evaluation of textile color rubbing fastness based on image processing
      AN Yijin, XUE Wenliang, DING Yi, ZHANG Shunlian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  131-137.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210702407
      Abstract ( 365 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (5598KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to objectively evaluate textile color fastness and eliminate the heavy workload in manual color evaluation, this paper reports on research into evaluation of textile color rubbing fastness using image processing technology. In view of the scenes and problems, image processing technology was used to treat and segment the sampled images. A database was built for small samples from multiple categories, and deep learning was used to achieve the rapid rating of the color fastness of rubbed samples which was necessary for stain removal. The results show that the selected image processing technique works well and has an auxiliary effect on the subsequent improvement of the accuracy of deep learning. The rating accuracy reaches 87.5%, which is efficient, objective and accurate. The rating operation was simplified, and the neural network was used to replace the human eye rating process, improving the accuracy and overcoming the shortcomings of the current method.

      Apparel Engineering
      Testing and application for change rate of inflation size of inflatable warm clothing
      MIAO Xue, WANG Yongjin, WANG Fangming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  138-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211107706
      Abstract ( 273 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (2438KB) ( 115 )   Save
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      Change rate of inflation size of inflatable warm clothing directly affects the design and production of such products. In order to better grasp the relationship between the two, 6 different inflatable fabrics of the same laminating shape, with 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% different inflatable states, were tested, and the change rate of inflation size of these clothing models were evaluated in the warp and weft directions. The experimental results show that the amount of inflation and the change rate of inflation size have a strong positive correlation. For different fabrics with the same inflation, the warp change rate of inflation size rate is greater than the weft change rate of inflation size, and when the inflatable state reaches about 70%, the increase in the warp change rate of inflation size rate weakens, and the weft change rate of inflation size rate gradually becomes smaller. Through the analysis, the maximum warp and weft change rate of inflation size rates of the inflatable garment are obtained, which can be used as a design reference for the increase in the size required to increase the size of the inflatable garment in addition to the basic length and circumference. The change rate of inflation size was applied to the size design of the inflatable warm clothing sample according to the push layout release method.

      Balance optimization of clothing mass customization production line based on genetic algorithm
      CHEN Sha, XIU Yi, LI Xuefei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  144-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211100208
      Abstract ( 347 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (3236KB) ( 141 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of long product online time, unbalanced tempo, and high production cost in the production process of mass-customized mixed assembly line, the research reported in this paper first analyzed the characteristics and problems of the complex production line of clothing mass customization, and constructed a hybrid production line balance optimization model with multi-subgroup management, multi-objective optimization and clothing single-piece customization. The research used the matrix principle to constrain the coding of the process, and established a decoding algorithm for station conversion. As a result, production balance of the entire mixed pipeline was achieved using the designed algorithms for roulette selection, two-point crossover and single-point mutation, and multi-objective fitness function. Mass customization production line of suits was taken as an example to demonstrate the use of MatLab technology for programming. The results show that the highest preparation efficiency of all sub-production lines can reach 93.93%, the average preparation efficiency of the total production line is 85.77%, which meets the requirements of the process planning set by the collaborating enterprise. It is indicated that the model established in this research can effectively solve the production balance problem of the mass customization production line.

      Shirt pattern generating method based on 3-D human scanning model
      XIAO Boxiang, LIU Zhengdong, GUO Yucheng, WANG Yuanxia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  151-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211003609
      Abstract ( 319 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (12604KB) ( 145 )   Save
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      Aiming at uncontrollable matching error between automatically generated pattern and body shape in shirt customization, an automatic generating method based on 3-D human body scanning model is proposed. The personalized 3-D human model was obtained by scanning the target human body, and the personalized body feature points were extracted on the 3-D human model by analyzing the geometric characteristics of the cross-section curves of the model. A standard 3-D basic model of a shirt was constructed by using the standard mannequin for garment pattern making, and as-rigid-as possible (ARAP) deformation algorithm was used to create the deformation of the standard 3-D basic model with the personalized body feature points as constraints. Finally, using a 3-D model flattening algorithm based on the mass-spring system, the corresponding 2-D pattern was generated according to the deformed 3-D clothing models, and offsets of the edge lines of the pattern verified by experiments were considered in generating the final personalized shirt pattern that adapts to the target body shape. The experimental results show that this method can generate shirt pattern with good fitting. Based on the digital model and automatic processing algorithm, automatic generation of shirt pattern can be achieved that ensures the accuracy and improves the efficiency of personalized pattern making. The research outcome provides a technical solution for garment intelligent manufacturing.

      Automatic coloration of clothing pattern based on color parsing of Peking Opera masks
      JIA Jing, CAO Jingwen, XU Pinghua, LIN Ruibing, SUN Xiaowan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  160-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211111307
      Abstract ( 326 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (9780KB) ( 132 )   Save
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      In order to improve the coloration efficiency of clothing pattern design, an automatic color matching mechanism based on adaptive color clustering of scene images was proposed. 150 images of Peking Opera masks from three roles were collected as the source samples. The Peking Opera mask body of each sample image was obtained by image segmentation and denoising. The bipartite K-means clustering algorithm was utilized to extract adaptively the extracted colors of each sample. In addition, the secondary clustering was carried out to acquire the main color value, proportion and co-occurrence ratio of Peking Opera mask images. A dynamic color matching mechanism integrating the number of color clusters, co-occurrence ration and structure characteristics of the target pattern was designed. Consequently, an automatic color parsing and matching software package was developed. Results confirm that the color matching control parameters, source images, pattern shape and other factors affect the color selection sequence and the final matching effect. The proposed method can quickly achieve the pattern color migration based on the source images, and can provide reference for auxiliary decision-making on clothing pattern color design.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Detection method and dynamic characteristics of weft yarn delivery
      PENG Laihu, ZHANG Yujuan, LÜ Yongfa, DAI Ning, LI Jianqiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  167-172.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210501006
      Abstract ( 256 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (3688KB) ( 68 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the tension and count regularity of yarn are difficult to be dynamically detected, which may lead to abnormal weft knitting, a photoelectric sensor-based non-contact yarn delivery state detection method was developed, and a binocular photoelectric sensor differential measurement was proposed. Dual-channel photoelectric components were innovatively designed to construct two-channel yarn dynamic sensing differential signal pairs to eliminate common-mode signal interference in order to pick up the weak yarn state signals by eliminating the influence of noise. On this basis, the yarn delivery state detection experiment was designed to test the real-time voltage signal when the yarn was delivered under different tensions and with different diameters, to analyze the signal average value, variance and numerical frequency distribution curve, and to reveal the dynamic characteristics of the yarn. The results show that as the yarn tension increases, the average value and variance of the difference signal gradually decrease, indicating that the yarn fluctuation amplitude is gradually decreasing, and the overall yarn fluctuation tends to be stable. Changing the yarn thickness will cause the yarn fluctuating amplitude to increases gradually, and the yarn fluctuation difference to gradually increase. When the yarn thickness increases to a certain value, the yarn fluctuation amplitude and the yarn fluctuation difference tend to be stable.

      Prediction method for tension of fabric sewn by robot based on extensibility
      SONG Jiexin, FU Tianyu, LI Fengming, SONG Rui, LI Yibin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  173-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210805708
      Abstract ( 162 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (6939KB) ( 63 )   Save
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      In order to better understand the effect the sewing tension on fabric sewing flatness in the robotic sewing process, the support vector machine (SVM) model was trained according to the extensibility of the fabric, and the extensibility of a new fabric was predicted by the linear SVM model. A fuzzy logic control system was used to determine the nonlinear relationship between the cloth characteristics and the applied tension. The SVM model was tested with four fabrics, i.e., wool, silk, velvet, and flannel, among which silk was selected to output the expected tension of the fabric through fuzzy logic relations. The results show that in the process of fabric stretching, the extensibility predicted by the linear SVM model eventually tends to converge towards the actual extensibility of the fabric. Based on fuzzy logic, the expected tension of any fabric can be predicted according to the extensibility and fabric type. This research provides a prerequisite for avoiding fabric deformation and improving sewing quality.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in aerogel materials application for textiles
      ZHAO Lunyu, SUI Xiaofeng, MAO Zhiping, LI Weidong, FENG Xueling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  181-189.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210501210
      Abstract ( 623 )   HTML ( 52 )   PDF (9108KB) ( 290 )   Save
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      In order to clarify the definition of aerogel and explore its application value in textiles, the evolution of the definition and the domestic and international research status of aerogel-based textiles were reviewed and summarized. The preparation processes of three main application methods of aerogel in textiles, i.e., gel integral molding method, thermal bonding method and coating method, as well as their advantages and disadvantages were analyzed in detail. Focusing on the four application forms of aerogel-based textiles, including thermal protection textiles, warm and cold-proof textiles, super-hydrophobic textiles and noise and sound insulation textiles, this paper expounded the action mechanism of aerogel and pointed out the problems currently in these application forms. Finally, the review concluded that enhancing mechanical properties, optimizing material compatibility, reducing preparation cost and promoting intelligent transformation would be the significant development directions of aerogel materials for the textile field in the future.

      Research progress in fiber-based artificial nerve guide conduits
      DAI Jiamu, NIE Du, LI Suying, ZHANG Yu, ZHANG Wei, LIU Rong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  190-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210805407
      Abstract ( 271 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (13180KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      For the purpose of developing artificial nerve guide conduit (NGC) with good biocompatibility, multi-function and excellent nerve regeneration capacity, raw materials component, fabrication method, structure designing, functionalizing and cell incubation of the scaffolds as well as the analysis of future research directions were reviewed. Literature showed that fiber-based NGC with different diameters were prepared using natural, synthesized polymers, or mixed materials, by various methods such as melt spinning, electrospinning and self-assembling. In general, hollow tubular scaffolds were filled with sponge, hydrogel or axial channel to improve the orientated growth of cells to provide appropriate micro environment for cell growth. Through modifying with electro-conductive or magnetic materials, loading active substances such as growth factors or messenger RNA (mRNA), would accelerate cell proliferation and differentiation. Subsequently, the potential development directions of NGC are proposed to further improve the efficiency of nerve regeneration.

      Research progress in flexible micro supercapacitor based on printing technology
      LI Xiaoyan, ZHANG Zhihui, YAO Jiming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  197-202.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210203707
      Abstract ( 264 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (3053KB) ( 127 )   Save
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      As a new energy storage device, flexible micro-supercapacitor has the advantages of fast charging and discharging, high power density and long cycle life, which has a good application prospect in wearable electronic devices. In order to facilitate the normal use of flexible electronic products such as flexible displays, transistors, radio frequency identification devices and wearable devices, this review paper introduces the gravure printing method and screen printing method for the preparation of micro supercapacitors, which are the key problems in the preparation of micro supercapacitors. Screen printing method has the advantages of being a simple process, short time consumption, integration and industrial production. The interdigital structure prepared by screen printing can achieve ion transfer in a limited plane. Conductive ink is the core part of printing technology, and inorganic, organic and composite conductive inks are analyzed. Micro supercapacitors prepared with composite conductive inks have good capacitance characteristics, and their application prospects are prospected.

      Research progress in bulletproof flexible textile materials and structures
      CHU Yanyan, LI Shichen, CHEN Chao, LIU Yingying, HUANG Weihan, ZHANG Yue, CHEN Xiaogang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(12):  203-212.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210607910
      Abstract ( 466 )   HTML ( 36 )   PDF (3729KB) ( 175 )   Save
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      In view of the contradiction between lightweight and high protection of soft flexible impact resistant textiles, research progress in new fibers and film materials, fiber surface modification and structural design are reviewed. The theoretical strength, preparation methods and macro preparation problems about new fibers and film materials, including graphene and carbon nanotube are analyzed. The modification methods and impact resistance effects of shear thicken fluids and nano inorganic materials on the fiber surface are examined. The advantages and disadvantages of single-layer fabric structure and laminated structure have been analyzed and the application prospects of aerogel composite structure and hard-soft bionic structure used for impact resistance are expounded. It is pointed out that on the basis of fulfilling the requirements of impact resistance, coordination between comfort and impact resistance can be achieved through the combined design of surface modification, fabric structure, interlayer structure, and the hybrid use of hard and soft structures. The macro quantitative defect-free preparation of high-purity graphene and carbon nanotube fibers or films overcome the technical bottleneck for much lighter impact resistance textiles in the future.