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Table of Content

    15 November 2008, Volume 29 Issue 11
    • 纤维材料
      Luminescence properties of rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescent fiber
      ZHAO Jumei;GUO Xuefeng;XU Yanna;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1177 )   PDF (492KB) ( 632 )   Save
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      The crystal phase structure of rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescent fiber was tested by XRD,and the spectroscopic properties were analyzed by fluorescence spectrophotometer.At the same time,the storage and luminescent rules at different exciting illuminances and exciting time were measured.The experimental results indicated that the crystal phase structure and spectroscopic properties of luminescent materials were not changed by the making process of fiber;the luminescence properties of luminescent fiber were originated from the 4f()~65d~1→4f()~7 transition of Eu~(2+);the illuminance intensity of luminescent fiber was saturated after about several seconds to two minutes of lighting,the saturation value and the time to reach this value were decided by the intensity of exciting light;afterglow decay was composed of rapid-decaying and slow-decaying processes,and this was caused by the different depths of defect energy level in the materials.
      Strain rate and temperature dependence of tensile behavior of Kevlar~964C fiber bundles
      MAO Mingzhong;XIONG Jie;YANG Bin;XIONG Tao;ZHOU Kai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  6-11. 
      Abstract ( 966 )   PDF (708KB) ( 565 )   Save
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      The tensile impact experiments were carried out at different strain rates and temperatures by using of Hopkinson bar-bar tensile impact apparatus and universal tester.The stress-strain curves were obtained based on one-dimension stress wave theory.The results showed that the tensile behavior of Kevlar~964C is strain rate and temperature dependent.At the same temperature,the failure stress,unstable strain,initial elasticty modulus and specific fracture strain energy density increase with increasing strain rate.At the same strain rate,the failure stress,unstable strain and specific fracture strain energy density increase with increasing temperature,but initial elasticty modulus decreases with increasing temperature.The mechanism of strain rate and temperature dependence of tensile behavior was analyzed based on the above experiments.
      Ni-Cu plated carbon fiber fabric and RCS specialities in millimeter wave band
      HOU Wei;PAN Gongpei;GUAN Hua;ZHU Chenguang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  12-15. 
      Abstract ( 1052 )   PDF (794KB) ( 512 )   Save
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      The Ni-Cu coating was deposited on the surface of carbon fiber fabric by electroless plating process to prepare a new passive jamming material.The surface of Ni-Cu deposited carbon fiber fabric was analyzed with SEM and EDAX,the surface resistances of Ni,Cu and Ni-Cu deposited carbon fiber fabrics were measured and the binding strength of plating layer was measured by method of repeating cold and heat.The RCS values of Ni,Cu and Ni-Cu deposited carbon fiber fabrics with the same size were tested with radar cross section(RCS)measurement system.The results show that Ni-Cu deposited carbon fiber fabric has better uniformity,luster,adhesion and conducting ability.The RCS values increase with the increasing of conducting ability of metal deposited carbon fiber fabric in millimeter wave band,and the RCS value of Ni-Cu deposited carbon fiber fabric is maximal and is close to the academic vale.The Ni-Cu deposited carbon fiber fabric would be an efficient material to interfere millimeter wave.
      Properties of blend films prepared by water-insoluble silk fibroin powder and medical polyurethane
      XU Haiye;XU Weilin;LIU Xiuying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  16-21. 
      Abstract ( 1242 )   PDF (825KB) ( 552 )   Save
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      Blend films of water-insoluble silk fibroin(SF) powder and medical polyurethane were produced by the method of immersion-precipitation phase transformation.These blend films with different powder contents were investigated on the change of their surface morphology,water absorption,water vapor permeability,water contact angle,mechanical properties and IR spectrums.The results showed that,with increasing of water-insoluble silk fibroin powder content,blend films′ surface changed gradually from dense to loose with emergence of microporous,meanwhile the silk fibroin powder was uniformly dispersed in the films without apparent agglomeration,which suggested that they had good compatibility with each other.In addition,elongation at break and modulus of the blend films decreased to certain extent when compared with pure PU films,but their water absorption and water vapor permeability were gradually raised with increasing of water-insoluble silk fibroin powder content;films′ water contact angle declined,which suggested that their hydrophilicity was also gradually raised.
      Non-parameter kernel estimation of density function of cotton fiber length
      LIN Qian;YAN Guangsong;YU Chongwen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  22-25. 
      Abstract ( 1011 )   PDF (814KB) ( 629 )   Save
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      In order to discuss the effect of fiber length distribution on yarn properties,researchers prefer fiber length density function,for some mathematical methods can be adopted conveniently and the density function is the best way to describe the entire length distribution.Based on Premier test data,this approach uses kernel function method to estimate the density function of cotton fiber length.The goodness of fit is verified by comparing the calculated and tested value of the SFC of 12.7 and 16 mm,and the analysis results in the conclusion that a power-type kernel function and a normal kernel function are superior.The estimation lays a foundation for the study of cotton fiber length and the prediction of yarn quality based on the data from the equipments like HVI.
      纺织工程
      Two-dimensional numerical simulation of air flow in an air-vortex spinning nozzle
      PEI Zeguang;YU Zhaosheng;YU Chongwen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  26-30. 
      Abstract ( 1025 )   PDF (903KB) ( 526 )   Save
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      To investigate the effect of air flow in an air?-vortex spinning nozzle on yarn forming through twisting fiber strands,a computational fluid dynamics(CFD) model has been developed to simulate the air flow characteristics in an air-vortex spinning nozzle.Two-dimensional simulation and standard k-ε turbulence model is used.The computational results show that the velocities in the nozzle are transonic.Velocity and static pressure distributions in the nozzle are presented and analyzed.Due to the centrifugal and twisting forces generated by tangential velocity,the rear ends of the fibers are separated from the fiber strand and spread out.Then they helically wound round the fiber strand to form a real-twisted yarn.In the upstream of the jet orifices,the pressures are lower than the atmosphere pressure,which is helpful for sucking the fiber strand coming out from the front roller nip into the nozzle.This work shows that CFD technique can provide a better understanding of the behavior of the high speed air flow in the air-vortex spinning nozzle.
      Establishment and application of yarn general quality evaluation system
      ZHANG Yi;XUE Min;LIU Changban
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  31-34. 
      Abstract ( 919 )   PDF (794KB) ( 519 )   Save
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      This paper revealed the relationships among yarn quality indexes by using relativity analysis.Through component analysis,two general quality factors,surface quality factor and mechanic function factor,were established. The paper founded the yarn general quality evaluation coordinate system based on the quantity taxis.Thereby,it formatted a general quality evaluation system for yarn.It is believed that the system is convenient in evaluating yarn quality. It is considered useful for yarn classification and selection in the mill practice.
      Unification of cotton yarn count conversion factor between English count and tex system
      XU Fuguan;XU Liqin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  35-38. 
      Abstract ( 2360 )   PDF (806KB) ( 577 )   Save
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      The expressing way of cotton yarn linear density in China had been changed form English count into tex system.But there are still some countries and areas using the English count for cotton yarn.A cotton yarn count conversion factor between the English count and the tex system may be used in business with some foreign countries and areas.The conversion factor is 583.1 or 590.5 in Chinese literature published.The value of the conversion factor appears differently.Aiming at two different values of the conversion factor in current literature,the formula for calculating the factor is deduced.After analyzing the source and the application situation of the two values,it is pointed out that the value 583.1 has no use-value for textile enterprises.The value 590.5(590.55,more accurate) should be uniformly used in textile filed.The value 583.1 should be avoided to using in international bid and trade activities.
      Effect of pin carding plate on fiber length distribution
      SUN Pengzi;ZHANG Mingguang;WANG Lan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  39-43. 
      Abstract ( 977 )   PDF (988KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      To discuss the effect of pin carding plate on fiber length distribution in the card slivers,length tests to the card slivers under different carding plate gauge,taker-in speed and doffer speed using pin carding plate and saw-tooth carding plate under the card taker-in by USTER AFIS single fiber tester were done.The results show that compared with saw-tooth carding plate,carding action of pin carding plate is more gentle,which is favorable to reducing fiber damage as a whole,especially when the gauge is small.Compared with installing taker-in grid,the taker-in installed carding plate is favorable to improving fiber length distribution in the card sliver as a whole.
      Classification of fabric softness
      WANG Ya;LU Yuzheng;GAO Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  44-47. 
      Abstract ( 1474 )   PDF (919KB) ( 623 )   Save
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      At present,fabric softness assessment still needs to be improved.In this paper,the quantization and classification method of fabric softness were discussed.A 30 woven fabric sample space with a wide distribution was established by the combination of subjective and objective assessment.Comprehensive evaluation value of 12 mechanics indexes that calculated by the main factor analysis were used to quantify the fabric softness.The sample space was equally divided into 6 grades according to the comprehensive evaluation values,and a proper adjustment was carried out by handle evaluation.Moreover,the reasonable and objective of the fabric softness classification result was verified.
      Test and analysis of polylactic acid fabric wearability
      QU Yong;BU Jiaxian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  48-51. 
      Abstract ( 1405 )   PDF (942KB) ( 601 )   Save
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      In order to have a better understanding of the polylactic acid(PLA) fabric wearability and enhance the research and development level of this kind of products,the paper discusses the test of fabric properties such as the strength and elongation,air permeability,wrinkle recovery,moisture transmitting,draping, abrasion resistance,pilling and weaving resistance of pure PLA fabric,the blend fabric in a blend ratio of PLA fiber/cotton(80/20),cotton fabric and polyester fabric with similar specifications.The result shows that the polylactic acid fabric has good elongation,wrinkle recovery,moisture transmitting,draping property and abrasion resistance.Its air permeability and anti-pilling property are not as good as those of cotton fabrics.It has higher weaving resistance and will prevent the fabric slippage.Due to addition of cotton fibers,the air permeability and anti-pilling property of the blended fabric are improved,weaving resistance is brought down,but wrinkle recovery,draping property and abrasion resistance drop.
      Influence of structural parameters of polyester fabric on its anti-ultraviolet properties
      DUAN Yafeng;PAN Kui;YE Haina;WU Huiying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  52-56. 
      Abstract ( 1049 )   PDF (1051KB) ( 430 )   Save
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      For improving the ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabrics for summer apparels,this article adds functional anti-UV master batch additive to polyester filaments which are used to weave a lot of fabric samples,and testing of samples are conducted.The effect of structural changes such as fabric count and weave,as well as the content of master batch additive in the material on the ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabrics is investigated.The results show that the ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabrics is improved with increasing the content of functional additive,fabric count and float of weave,especially the fabric with backed weaves.
      vibration behaviorof cushioning warp knitted spacer fabric
      MIAO Xuhong;CEMingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  57-60. 
      Abstract ( 1170 )   PDF (1009KB) ( 576 )   Save
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      The special three-dimensional construction of warp knitted spacer fabric is analyzed to look into the viscoelastic nature in the static and dynamic condition and to study the mechanical properties of this new cushioning material for car seats.A mechanical model is built up and vibration transmission rate is used to describe the vibration behavior.Natural frequency and damping coefficient are the important parameters which are determined by the construction parameters of spacer fabric.The analytical results show that the construction and material of spacer layer are the key factors which influence the vibration behavior.The natural frequency and damping coefficient can be predetermined by rational designation of construction parameter to optimize the spacer fabric′s vibration behavior and riding comfort.
      染整与化学品
      Match prediction for blended-color wool tops based on Stearns-Noechel model
      SHEN Jiajia;ZHANG Zhiqiang;CHEN Yanbing;LUO Xiaoju;CHEN Weiguo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  61-66. 
      Abstract ( 1153 )   PDF (1116KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      It is difficulty to precisely predict the matching of colors for blended-color wool tops,which still remains a problem to be solved in production.In this paper,based on Stearns-Noechel model,color matching formulation for blended-color wool tops was studied.Through statistically analyzing the constant M defined by Stearns and Noechel,it modifies and expands the old formula and proposes a new one.After comparing with the old formula,the result shows that the new models not only improve the matching accuracy,but also have a good linear correlation.Especially,when the new model which is set up by the constant M according to the wavelength is used to predict 90 wool top blended samples,the number of the color difference under 3.0 ClELAB units takes 91.11%.And the averaged color difference decreases to 1.679 ClELAB units.This means that it is suitable for color prediction for blended-color wool tops.
      Anti-ultraviolet finishing of cotton fabric with nano-TiO_2
      DENG Hua;DENG Baoxiang;LI Xiuming;LI Hanyu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  67-70. 
      Abstract ( 1046 )   PDF (1115KB) ( 470 )   Save
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      In order to overcome some drawbacks of using nano particles in textile finishing,such as aggregation of the particles and difficulty in dispersion,nano?-TiO_2 sol was prepared by sol-gel method.And further a fabric-finishing agent was produced with the TiO_2 sol.The cotton fabric was treated with the TiO_2 finishing agent by dip-padding proceess.The XRD,SEM and X-ray energy spectrum were used to characterize the prepared TiO_2 and cotton fabrics before and after finishing with TiO_2 solution.Also,the anti-ultraviolet performance and wearability of the finished fabric were tested.Results showed that prepared TiO_2 is an anatase crystal.The treated fabrics possess excellent anti-UV property and therating of ultraviolet protection factor(UPF) attains 50+.The standard test to washing(soaping) shows that the UPF value decreases slightly after 50 washing cycles,but it still retains 50+.The tensile strength of the treated cotton fabric did not drop and the permeation of the fabric changed little.
      Mechanism of salt-free dyeing of HBP—NH_2 grafted oxidized cotton fabrics
      ZHANG Feng;CHEN Yuyue;ZHANG Desuo;HUA Yanrong;ZHAO Bing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  71-75. 
      Abstract ( 1174 )   PDF (1116KB) ( 462 )   Save
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      In order to reveal the mechanism of salt-free dyeing of HBP—NH_2 grafted oxidized cotton fabrics(HGCF) with reactive dyes,the ζ-potential of HGCF in the liquid phase,dyeing thermodynamics,dyeing dynamics and hue changes of HGCF dyed with reactive dyes were examined.As a result,the ζ-potential of the HGCF is positive at pH′s lower than 6.5.The dyeing behaviour of reactive brilliant yellow A-4GLN on HGCF was found to follow a Langmuir-type adsorption curve,and the value of adsorption constant and saturated adsorbing capacity decreased when the temperature was raised,the dyeing entropy is(-4.51 kJ/mol.) Compared to ungrafted cotton fabrics,HBP—NH_2 grafted oxidized cotton fabrics can improve the speed of dyeing,the equilibrium dye uptake and the diffusion coefficients.Meanwhile,there was slight hue changes on HGCF dyed with reactive dyes in salt-free dyeing.
      Effects of nano-oxides on the color of anti-crease cotton fabrics
      ZHAO Haiyang;YAO Jinbo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  76-79. 
      Abstract ( 983 )   PDF (1062KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      This article studied the influence of nano-TiO_2 and nano-SiO_2 on the color of Argazol Red BF-DS,Argazol Yellow BF-3R and Argazol Blue BF-R anti-crease dyed cotton fabrics.The results indicated that the addition of nano-TiO_2 influenced the color of fabric dyed with Argazol yellow BF-3R more than with the other two dyes.At the same time,K/S values of fabrics dyed with the above dyestuffs showed no increase.The addition of nano-SiO_2 brought a greater influence on the color of fabric dyed with Argazol Red BF-DS,but no influence on the color of fabrics dyed with the other two. Meanwhile the K/S values of fabrics dyed with the above dyestuffs decreased slightly.
      Effect of liquid ammonia/crosslinking treatment on hand feeling of bast fabrics
      ZHANG Hua;FENG Jiahao;LI Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  80-83. 
      Abstract ( 1061 )   PDF (1106KB) ( 546 )   Save
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      To resolve the problem of quantitative analysis of hand feeling of liquid ammonia/crosslinking treated hemp,ramie and flax fabrics,KES-F handle tester was used to measure the tensile,bending,shearing,compressional,surface and other low stress mechanical properties of above three fabrics treated by liquid ammonia/crosslinking.Comparative study was performed of the hand feeling of the three fabrics through different treatments.Results indicated that tensile resilience and compressional resilience are all increased by liquid ammonia treatment,especially surface properties of hemp,ramie and flax fabrics exhibit significant improvement.Bending,shearing and surface properties of liquid ammonia /crosslinked fabrics are obviously improved as well.And their tensile and compressional properties are better than the bast fabrics treated only by crosslinking.
      Blood compatibility of polyester textile modified by surface grafting
      WANG Xiaochun;ZHAO Guoliang;HE Hao;ZHANG Cuiling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  84-87. 
      Abstract ( 995 )   PDF (1143KB) ( 453 )   Save
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      Acrylic acid was grafted onto the surface of polyester textiles by exposing the textiles to the plasma,followed by the chemical reaction.The influencing factors such as the concentration of the acrylic acid and auxiliary as well as reaction temperature on the blood compatibility was studied and the optimized treatment conditions were suggested.Firstly,the polyester textile was treated by plasma in which the vacuum degree was(50 Pa),the power was(100 W,) and argon was used for(3 min.) Then,acrylic acid was grafted onto the surface of plasma treated polyester textiles by chemical reaction in which the concentration of DP was(0.4%,) NNO was(0.3%,) reaction temperature was(85 ℃) and initiator was benzoyl peroxide(BPO).The results showed that the blood compatibility of the polyester textiles thus treated was good.
      Dyeing rate′s curve fitting based on MatLab
      ZHOU Xiren
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  88-91. 
      Abstract ( 1042 )   PDF (1170KB) ( 530 )   Save
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      The data about the concentration of dye liquor,absorbency and dye uptake,can be used for dyeing rate′s curve fitting on MatLab.Since the relation between the concentration of dye liquor and absorbency follows Lambert-Beer law, standard curve and equation can be established based on the correlation of a set of known concentrations of dye liquor and absorbency.Testing the absorbency of the dye liquor at a group of time-series,the corresponding dye uptake can be determined according to the standard curve.Combining the dye uptake with the time,the dyeing rate curve can be founded with a range of absorbency data in different time corresponding with standard curve.The dyeing rate curve is preserved finally both in multinomial and figure on MatLab.The detail of the data processing about the dyeing rate on MatLab,is showed in the paper.
      Preparation of a quaternary ammonium flocculant and its application in treatment of dye house wastewater
      SUI Zhihui;ZHAO Xin;LIU Anjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  92-96. 
      Abstract ( 1064 )   PDF (1210KB) ( 463 )   Save
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      For enhancing the treating effect of flocculants,polyquaternary ammonium acrylamide graft copolymer(PAQD) was prepared from acrylamide(AM) and poly2-hydroxylpropyldiethyl ammonium chloride and was used as flocculant in the treatment of dye house wastewater.The results showed that the removal rate of colourity,SS and CODcr was 92.1%,89.3% and 77.3% respectively under the conditions when temperature was normal,pH value was 7.0 and flocculant dosage was(7 mg/L).In comparison with conventional flocculants,such as anionic polyacrylamide(APAM) and nonionic polyacrylamide(NPAM),the flocculation performance of PAQD was the best.PAQD flocculant was characterized by less flocculant dosage,higher sedimentation rate,lower water content of filter cake and clearer supernatant.The flocculation effect of PAQD had a slight advantage over that of inward cationic polyacrylamide(CPAM).
      服装工程
      Analysis of physiological response by pressure developed by foundation garment
      LIU Li;ZHANG Weiyuan;WANG Yongjin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  97-102. 
      Abstract ( 1187 )   PDF (1286KB) ( 640 )   Save
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      To study the physiological response by the pressure developed by foundation garment,the wearing experimental procedure was designed and fifteen female undergraduates were employed as subjects.The physical response according to the clothing pressure from seven representative physiological variables(oxygen uptake,respiratory exchange rate,heart rate etc.) was investigated.And from the result we obtained that fitness and coverage position was the main factors affecting physiological response.Relationships between clothing pressure at each point of body surface during exercise and physiological variables were further explored,and found that the factor of respiratory before exercise has correlation with pressure of the area above the waist and bust,the factor of heart rate before exercise has no significant correlation with pressure of every point,but the factor of respiratory during exercise has a significant correlation with the pressure of bust area,the factor of heart rate during exercise also has a significant correlation with the pressure of front waist area during riding ergonomic bike exercise.
      Cultural analysis of garment pattern of modern times in Hui′an
      ZHANG Zhenyue;GAO Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  103-106. 
      Abstract ( 996 )   PDF (1329KB) ( 505 )   Save
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      As a vehicle of costume culture,garment pattern of modern times in Hui′an is a representation of blended arts of spirit and material that attached to its peculiar dresses.Through the research of garment pattern of modern times in Hui′an,the article expatiates systematically the cause of development,themes,means of expression,and cultural connotations of the pattern.The development of garment pattern has some connection with the aesthetic consciousness and religious belief of Hui′an women and multi-cultural penetration of the groups of Hui′an.Its cultural connotations coagulate the wisdom of Hui′an women and express the beautiful wishes they yearn for and pursue.
      机械与器材
      Controlling system for continuous testing apparatus of fineness of cocoon silk based on virtual instrument
      SHENG Jinglong;CHEN Qingguan;XU Shuai;GUO Hengyong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  107-110. 
      Abstract ( 1293 )   PDF (1303KB) ( 570 )   Save
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      Combining with the PIC microcontroller,a controlling system for continuous testing apparatus of the fineness of cocoon silk was developed under the framework of virtual instrument from American National Instruments Company(NI) in LabVIEW developing environment.The system can automatically detect the end breaking of cocoon silk when reeling,control the processing of winding device,and also gradually push the bave during reeling by Hall sensor and PIC microcontroller.The problems of cocoon silk breaking while testing and the difficulties in comparing results between testing and weighting methods were resolved by the system.Experimental results indicated that the reliability and anti-jamming ability of the controlling system were good.
      Time coordination analysis of loop-forming based on n-SHM in a carpet tufting machine
      DING Caihong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  111-114. 
      Abstract ( 1006 )   PDF (1301KB) ( 496 )   Save
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      The mismatch between the time coordination of loop-forming motion and the tufting process can cause problems with unevenness of the tuft pile surface and so results in lower quality carpets.In view of problems above,the key point of the time coordination in the carpet tufting process is proposed firstly,that is used to guide the mechanical design and the phase adjustment of the loop-forming device of the tufting machine.Through Adams motion simulation,specific analysis is focused on the motion time coordination of the conventional loop-forming device which is considered with a shortage in matching the tufting process.Consequently,two methods of the motion time coordination based on non-simple harmonic motion(n-SHM) are proposed to the loop-forming device,which is proved in Adams to well conform to the requirements of the carpet tufting process.And finally the relevant mechanisms are schemed to produce the n-SHM actions of the tufting needle and the looper.
      Design of one side stitching mechanism based on two needles
      YANG Xu;LI Liangyu;WANG Tianqi;LI Xiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  115-118. 
      Abstract ( 1159 )   PDF (1357KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      To solve the problem of the space limit when the abnormity work piece is stitched,a kind of one-side-stitching mechanism is developed based on two needles with a slider-crank mechanism and a cam gear mechanism.The mechanism can access to the work piece and stitch from only one side.The working principle and the method of design are introduced and the mathematical model of slider-crank mechanism is established.The kinematics simulation of the slider-crank mechanism is developed with MatLab.According to the result of simulation,cam gear is designed by reversal method.The data of the simulation is exact and the dimension is credible.
      Application of linear motors in electronic jacquard
      ZHANG Senlin;SHEN Guoyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  119-123. 
      Abstract ( 952 )   PDF (1319KB) ( 505 )   Save
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      In order to simplify the configuration of electronic jacquard,a method of linear motor drive was presented.Through the improvement of material and structure,the electromagnetic drive was replaced by linear DC motor.The drive circuit was reversible in this system.The linear motor was controlled by the change of drive current.There was a bit ″P″ to represent the location of the motor in the program.Advance and return movement was replaced by unidirectional motion judging the adjacent state of the bit ″P″.The motors and sensor were installed and controlled concentratively.The configuration is simpler and the control objective is much obvious in the electronic jacquard driven by linear motor when compared with traditional one.It can speed up the running of the machine and improve the work efficiency to apply this system in practical production.
      Reverse design used in crochet cam contour curve of warp-knitting machine based on MatLab
      WANG Wei;YANG Jiancheng;LIU Zhe;HAN Xiaoqin;WANG Lei;ZHOU Pengfei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  124-127. 
      Abstract ( 2037 )   PDF (1320KB) ( 525 )   Save
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      In order to design and manufacture a warp-knitting machine crochet cam to replace old one which is easy to wear,a new reverse design method is proposed by measuring the cam curve data by 3-D CMM,plotting the cam curve in MatLab,modifying the cam curve further,filtering the collected data,processing the filtered data by cubic spline interpolation in MatLab,and sending the new data to AutoCAD to generate compliable cam contour curve by Excel.The results of experiment show that the cam manufactured in this way satisfies production requirement, vibration decreases and noise declines,it can be used as reference for similar cam reconstruction.
      管理与信息化
      High-precision identification of woven fabric density via image processing
      PAN Ruru;GAO Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  128-131. 
      Abstract ( 1076 )   PDF (1358KB) ( 709 )   Save
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      By discussing the fabric image and the precision of the scanner in the article,the scanner is used to get high resolution fabric image by scanning in the vertical direction.A specific image size is put forward to analyze the fabric image. The skew of the complete fabric image has been correctly rectified by locating the yarn clearances.The brightness information and the projection curve of the reflect image from the fabric surface are used to confirm the position of the yarn clearances in the processed image.The accurate average distance of the yarn clearance is acquired by checking the distance of the yarn clearances in turn,and then the density of the fabric is calculated from the distance.High reliability of the technique is proved by experiments with a relative error of 0.07%.
      3-D modeling for warp knitted fabric based on NURBS
      CONG Honglian;GE Mingqiao;JIANG Gaoming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  132-136. 
      Abstract ( 1104 )   PDF (1375KB) ( 500 )   Save
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      In order to obtain more realistic simulation in warp knitting CAD system and provide more exact technologic design,it is necessary to develop a three-dimensional solid modeling of warp knitted structure and realize it on the computer screen.This article offered a 3-D solid model of the loop by using NURBS.By anti-calculating the control points of this model,the more exacted control polygon was gained and the real shape and position of space yarn can be described exactly. With program of Visual C++ and developing tools of Open GL,3-D simulation of warp knitted fabric can be realized visually on computer screen.As shown in the simulated graphics of basic warp knitted fabrics,this modelling can achieve good simulation effect.
      Dynamic pricing strategy for apparel supply chain based on fashion indexes
      XU Qi;WANG Xiaofeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(11):  137-140. 
      Abstract ( 1018 )   PDF (1317KB) ( 569 )   Save
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      Apparel is a seasonal and style-related product.In order to help enterprises to accurately project the market demand and adopt various advantageous pricing policies,this paper investigates a fashion indexes evaluation method for garment products by using principal components analysis(PCA) approach.A market demand model is developed to study the correlation of demand volume,product price and product value,and how they vary with fashion indexes.Optimal pricing model based on fashion indexes is established for sellers and the best retail pricing policy is determined according to the expected profits of the seller.On this basis,the differences between the finally delivered volume from the supplier and the expected volume should be taken into consideration and optimized profit model of the supply chain is discussed.By data simulation,it is demonstrated that the pricing policy based on fashion indexes can improve the profit of the supply chain.This study indicates that it is more seasonable to adopt the pricing policy based on fashion indexes,for apparel is a product which is directly related to fashion.