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Table of Content
15 November 2006, Volume 27 Issue 11
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研究论文
Aggregated structure of cotton fiber oxidised selectively with sodium periodate
XU Yun-hui;LIN Hong;CHEN Yu-yue
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 1-5.
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1082
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For developing further the application domain of oxidised cellulose, the 2,3-dialdehyde cellulose was prepared by selective oxidation of cotton fiber with sodium periodate, and the aggregated structure of the oxidized cotton fiber was analyzed by means of FT-IR and X-Ray,etc. The results showed that the crystallinity of cotton fiber increased after being slightly oxidised, but decreased after being severely oxidised. The breaking strength and elongation decreased as the degree of oxidation of cotton fiber increased.
Characterization and evolvement of fiber-length damage in wool top making:part (1) fiber breaking—explicit damage
YU Wei-dong;WANG Hua-qiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 6-9.
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961
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Fiber-length will be damaged and shortened in top-making due to fiber breaking, namely the explicit damage. A one-end uniform staple sample (sample C) is prepared by aligning twice through pulling_out fibers from both ends of the fiber bundle respectively, and length parameters of fiber-length damage can be obtained through analyzing sample C. The difference rate and the damage percentage calculated from the length parameters can be used to characterize fiber-length explicit damage effectively and accurately. The test results verify that the explicit damage takes place in all processing processes of the top with an average damage percentage of 8.763%, and the length shortening of the damaged fiber may reach up to 86% of the original one. Meanwhile, the sensitive and stable parameters to evaluate the damages should be expressed by the average weighted length of the short fiber content (SFC) length and the number of fibers.
Algorithm of edge outlining of fancy yarns based on Poisson′s equation
ZHUGE Zhen-rong;WU Jia
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 10-13.
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1212
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Fancy yarn′s irregular shape, complicated structure of texture, and abundant changes in colors make it difficult to realize the outlining of its figure. In this paper, an algorithm based on Poisson′s equation is used to realize the edge outlining of fancy yarns. The bitmap of a fancy yarn is divided into three areas: the assured foreground, the assured background and the unsure area. The finite difference method and the Gauss-Seidel iteration method are applied to calculate the value of α the pixels in the unsure area, according to each pixel′s value of α to judge whether the pixel belongs to the foreground or the background. By repeated calculations, the unsure area reduces gradually and the exact outline of the fancy yarn can be obtained. Finally, the slubby yarn and the knot yarn are given for example, good outlining effects are obtained.
Image test method for fabric drape
HUANG Xin-lin;LI Ru-qin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 14-17.
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1008
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为了解决图像法织物悬垂性测试中存在的图像采集和边缘轮廓信息提取困难等问题,从图像采集、悬垂图像轮廓分析及悬垂指标提取3个方面探讨织物悬垂性的图像测试方法。设计了新的图像采集方法,确保采集到高清晰度、高对比度的织物悬垂图像;编写了包含边缘检测、二值化、邻域点边界轮廓跟踪等算法程序的织物悬垂性测试软件,应用该软件可提取出悬垂图像边缘轮廓信息;根据织物悬垂图像轮廓信息,经半径确定、轮廓展开和指标计算等步骤,可测得织物悬垂性的多个特征值,如悬垂系数、波数、波峰幅值均匀度、波峰夹角均匀度、最大波峰幅值、最大波峰夹角等。
Design model for multibar raschel lace CAD system
JIANG Gao-ming;FENG Xun-wei
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 18-21.
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1280
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With the development of the production technique of raschel lace and rapid increase of its market share, the pattern design and development of raschel lace have become very important. After studying the structure of all kinds of raschel lace, aiming at the inadequency in pattern simulation and design speed of the existing CAD system, a bran-new design model for raschel lace CAD system theoretically was offered. A detailed description of lapping movements of guide bars from laying-in, to fall plate through loop forming was made, covering all movements of the guide bars. With this model, raschel lace can be developed visually, rapidly and exactly.
Determination of organotin compounds in textiles by GC-MS
NIU Zeng-yuan;YUAN Ling-ling;YE Xi-wen+;LI Lan-sheng+
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 22-27.
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The gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was used for simultaneous determination of 9 organotin compounds in textiles, which involved liquid-liquid extraction of organotin compounds from textiles, derivatization with NaBEt_4 and analysis of the ethyl organotin by GC-MS in scan mode and selective ion mode. The linearity response of all organotin compounds were well and R2≥ 0.999 0. The average recovery was in the range from 80% to 120% and the RSD was below 7.5%. The detection limit ranged from 0.003 9 mg/kg to 0.075 3 mg/kg. The proposed method has been successfully applied to the determination of organotin compounds in textiles with satisfactory results.
研究探讨
Absorbent quality of down fibers
GAO Jing;YU Wei-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 28-31.
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1252
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The absorbent quality of single down fibers has great impact on the thermal property of down fiber assembly. This paper discussed the primary factors affecting the absorbent quality of down, and tested its absorbent quality under different conditions. Through comparing with other natural fibers and synthetic fibers, the different absorbent qualities from fiber to fiber and the reason of producing this phenomena were expatiated. Finally, an absorbent quality isothermal model of down fibers was developed according to the Hailwood-Horrobin theories in combination with the experimental data.
Effect of heat treatments on structure and mechanical properties of PTT fibers
YIN Ying;ZHENG Jin-huan;ZHANG Ling-ling;CHEN Wei-guo
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 32-35.
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The effects of temperature and tension of heat treatments on the structure and mechanical properties of PTT fibers were investigated through SEM observation, and testing of the tensile and the rate of resilient-elasticity recovery. The results of the experiment show that drawing at 120~ 140 ℃ will damage the structure of PTT fibers and result in a drop in deformation resistance and stretch recovery, while proper drawing at the temperature about 160 ℃ will improve the internal structure of PTT fibers and enhance the deformation resistance, strength and stretch recovery. The heat-setting of PTT fabrics at the temperature about 160 ℃ can maintain and optimize high elasticity of PTT fibers.
Improvement of ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene fibers′ interface property by atmospheric argon plasma
JIANG Sheng;YAN Xiong;CAI Yong-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 36-38.
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973
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The curves showing the relationship between the strength of the ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene fiber bundle treated by atmospheric argon plasma and the epoxy resin interlaminar shear strength were investigated by varying technical conditions of low temperature and atmospheric argon plasma. The effect of argon plasma conditions on the fibers′ interface property was studied by comparing the changes of the strength of fiber bundle and the interlaminar shear strength. The influences of plasma treatment on bonding properties of fiber assemblies were further discussed by observing longitudinal microstructure of the treated tow and testing unidirectional properties of fiber reinforced composite which was made of the treated fiber tow by optimum technical parameters.
Production principle of the tri-component filament and staple fiber composite yarn
FAN Li-shan;LAI Kan;SUN Run-jun;YAO Mu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 40-43.
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1309
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The core_spun yarn,covering polyester filament with cotton, has such problems as much hairiness,relax structure, lowered wear resistance and pilling tendency. To solve these problems and facilitate the production of the fancy yarn or blended color yarn, designed a feeding and tension control device with the front roller with grooves and successfully spun a tri-component composite yarn with special structure by one-step on the traditional ring spinner. On the basis of analysis of the spinning process and mechanism, the technology parameters influencing the properties of the yarn are put forward.
Preparation and conductivity of the nonwovens deposited with nanostructured aluminum thin films
DENG Bing-yao;YAN Xiong;WEI Qu-fu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 44-47.
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950
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Nanostructured aluminum thin films were sputtered onto the spunbonded polyester nonwoven substrate by magnetron sputtering technology. The morphology of the coated fabric was examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and atomic force microscopy (AFM). Its electroconductive property was measured and analyzed. The study revealed that the fibrous structure of the nonwoven substrate kept intact after the sputter coating. It was also found that the increase in the coating time resulted in more compacted and uniform, and higher conductivity of the substrate. The electric resistance reached the lowest (4~ 6 Ω/cm) as the thickness of the coated layer increased to 100 nm.
Drive principle and test of piezoelectric ceramics device for electronic jacquard loom
JIA Wei-jing;LIU Yun-bin;YUAN Yan-hong;LI Zhi-xiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 48-51.
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This paper designed a novel needle selecting device for the electronic jacquard loom utilizing the piezoelectric effect of the ceramics bimorph and elucidated its working principle. The ceramics bimorph is characterized by high anti-interference to the electric current, low heat generation, no harmful vibration in the transition process when the electric current has a sudden change, no interference phenomenon of electromagnetism, remaining stable and low error rate at high speed operating of the loom. So, its use facilitates to further raise the jacquard speed and reduce power consumption. The photograph of high speed image system shows the moving process of the main hooks, and analysis of one cycle of the movement on the picture indicates that their movements are precision. The experiment results demonstrate that this needle selecting device for the electronic jacquard loom runs very well.
Separation and identification of microbes of pectin discomposing in hemp retting
QIAN Wei-jun;CHEN Hai-min;CHEN Jian-yong;FENG Xin-xing;YING Fei-xiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 52-54.
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The hemp bundles were submerged in clear water and sea water. After 9 days, the water used for submerging was diluted to volume fraction 0.01% by gradient method, and then applied uniformly on the culture medium sheet and the dominant single colony was selected through cultivating, separating and purifying. Thus obtained respectively two strains named 1309 and 2508 that were more effective in decomposing the pectin of the hemp. Both of the strains are Gram-negative. Strain 1309 is a bacillus with polar flagella in motion, while strain 2508 is a round-ended bacillus with polar flagellum in motion. Through biological analysis, preliminary results reveal that strain 1309 is Pseudomonas spp., and 2508 is Stenotrophomnas maltophilia.
Sediment and mineralization of calcium phosphate on the silk fiber
LU Shen-zhou;LI Ming-zhong;HUANG Ling-ping;BAI Lun
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 55-58.
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1092
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The degummed silk fibers were treated with disodium hydrogen phosphate and calcium nitrate solutions respectively by immersion method for mineralization so that the calcium phosphate could deposit on silk fibers. The sediment state of calcium phosphate on silk fibers was investigated by SEM, and the structure of the sediment was analyzed by XRD. The results showed that the sediments on silk fibers were mainly scale-like and needle-like hydroxyapatite crystals. Tensile strength testing of the mineralized fibers indicated that they became harder and their breaking extension and strength decreased, but the changes were not distinct. The calcium phosphate has good affinity to silk fibers, can deposit on them with little effect on their properties.
Adsorption of direct dyes with multi-sulfonic groups on chitosan fibers
HE Xue-mei;TANG Ren-cheng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 59-62.
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Adsorption of Direct Orange 39 with six sulfonic groups on chitosan fibers at different temperatures was investigated. The experimental data were analyzed and correlated with three kinds of adsorption isotherm model, namely, Langmuir, Freundlich and Redlich-Peterson. Analytical comparison of the adsorption parameters of different models and normalized deviation from the experimental showed that Freundlich isotherm exhibited more deviation from the experimental data and Redlich-Peterson isotherm fitted the best to describe the adsorption behavior of Direct Orange 39 on chitosan fibers, and adsorption is endothermic.
Dyeing control based on robust
H
∞
multi-step prediction
ZHOU Xiao-hui;XUE An-ke;WANG Jun-hong;LU Ren-quan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 63-64.
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The robust multi-step prediction control method based on an uncertain color model in dyeing process is presented to control the pressure, temperature and speed of the dyeing machine, previously, due to the unstable parameters of the grey fabric after pretreatment, its control was utterly depended on the engineers′ experience. Having developed the robust multi-step prediction control method, the pressure, temperature and speed of the dyeing machine can be adjusted according to the acquired data by on-line detection of the pressure, temperature, and speed of the machine and the color value of the semi-finished goods. Examples were also given to verify the result of this approach.
Development strategy of China′s textile & apparel industrial cluster based on the governance in global value chain
LIU Qin;CHEN Ji-xiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 66-69.
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The textile and apparel industry of our country has comparative advantages in international competition. The development mode of industrial cluster is one of the sources of competition advantage. The governance in global value chain is used when power owners coordinate and organize the value-created activities the world over. The governors of textile and apparel global value chain are often in the position of designing and marketing, reaping much value-added. However, most of China′s textile and apparel industrial clusters are engaged in manufacturing, and their relationship with the governor is quasi-hierarchy. They follow the rules and standards made by governors. According to the theory of governance in global value chain, the textile and apparel industrial clusters of our country can no longer depend on the advantage of low cost, and must improve the marketing technique, open up new sale channels and develop brand products and goods with regional features, thus promoting the upgrading of the clusters. Also, they should develop right relation with the governors, embed in various global value chains and implement market diversity strategy.
测试分析
Influence of binary oil on properties of PET staple fiber
ZHENG Guo;SUN Bo-quan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 70-74.
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With the help of the dynamic fiber thermo_mechanical analysis,the force and elongation analysis,friction factor analysis,volume resistance analysis and scanning electron microscopy,the influence of binary oil on the properties of PET staple fiber is studied.When the fiber surface is moisturized rapidly by oil solution,the oil also penetrated into the pores between fibers,which results in the change of fiber friction factor,movement of the molecular chain of non_crystalline region,and deformation of fiber.The surface properties of fiber mainly depend on oil pick up (OPU) and environment conditions.The OPU of PET staple fiber should be controlled in the range of 0.15%~0.25%. When the humidity is constant,the smoothness and cohesiveness of the fiber increase with the rising temperature;increasing the humidity improves the antistatic property of the fiber but decreases its smoothness and cohesiveness.
High substituted CMC used as the thickening agent for reactive dye printing
LI Li;FAN Xue-rong;WANG Qiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 75-78.
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1174
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In an attempt to use carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) as the thickening agent for reactive dye printing , the properties of high substituted CMC such as the rheological behavior and printing performance were tested and compared with those of the traditional thickener sodium alginate. The research results demonstrated that high substituted CMC has the advantages of high yield of forming thickening agent and good stock stability. Owing to its rheological behavior, it is more suitable for fine pattern printing of hydrophilic textiles than sodium alginate, and the printed effect was comparable to that of sodium alginate. High substituted carboxyl methyl celluloses are good substitution for sodium alginate for reactive dye printing.
Comparison of serviceability of the bamboo fiber fabric and the ramie fabric
LI Yan;XU Hai-lin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 79-81.
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The surface of bamboo fiber fabric is very similar to that of ramie fabric. To better identify these two kinds of fabric and promote the application of bamboo fiber which is a new kind of raw material for textile, a comparative study of the serviceability of the bamboo fiber fabric and ramie fabric of the same specifications is undertaken and the results are analyzed. The findings reveal that in general, the serviceability of these two kinds of fabric is rather similar. However, the bamboo fiber fabric is advantageous over the ramie fabric in comfortability and crease resistance but not as durable as the ramie fabric.
Evaluation and prediction of clothing comfort based on fabric physical properties
SUN Fei-fei;LI Jun;HAN Jia-shen
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 82-85.
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944
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The relationship between fabric physical properties and clothing comfort was studied based on psychological scaling in comfort perception and physical testing. The regression equation between clothing comfort perception factors and the fabric physical properties was derived. The correlation of the assessment data for psychological perception, perceptional factors and fabric physical properties was researched. A prediction model for overall clothing comfort sensibility was developed based on fabric physical properties as well as statistical equations. Prediction of single subjective comfort sensibility from the thermal, moisture and mechanical properties of fabric followed by prediction of overall comfort sensibility was expounded and verified by wearing trial.
Relationship between the comprehensive wearing characteristics and the structure parameters of lightweight worsted fabrics
JIANG Wei-qing
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 86-89.
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998
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The properties of lightweight worsted fabrics such as the warp and weft tensile strength, wrinkle recovery angle, drape coefficient, the length of warp and weft resistance to bending, and the fuzzing and pilling were tested, and the Q-clustering analysis method was used to analyze the property indexes obtained as well as the count, density and twist of warp yarn and weft yarn, the weight per unit area and thickness. The article deduced the relationship between the property indexes and structure parameters. It showed that comprehensive wearing characteristics of lightweight worsted fabrics are similar when they have the same material, same weave structure and yarn count. Fabric material ranks the first in influencing the comprehensive wearing characteristics of light-weight worsted fabrics, followed by the thickness, and then the weight.
Objective test and evaluation on pressure comfort for brassiere
WANG Yue-ping;ZHAO Ping;GAO Xu-shan;YANG Jing;WANG Jin-zi
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 90-93.
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Clothing pressure comfort is an important part in clothing comfort assessment. The objective measurement and characterization of clothing pressure are essential to the study of pressure comfort. With an ordinary style of brassiere as the target of study, the pressure and pressure distribution of the brassiere under the state of daily wearing were described objectively. The results show that usually clothing pressure is higher at the place where the body has the largest curved surface. So the pressure is higher at the brassiere tape, brassiere support and at the turning point of the back. Clothing pressure varies with wearing habits. Seriously unreasonable clothing pressure will result in stress concentration, which will be harmful to the human health. The study on clothing pressure will provide a useful guidance for apparel structure design, selection of material and manners of wearing of consumers.
生产技术
Configuration and properties of the tussah silk-like polyester fiber
GUAN Xin-hai;BAI Xiu-e
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 94-96.
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The tussah silk-like polyester fiber was prepared though melt spinning with modified polyester chips. The cross sections, configurations and properties of the tussah silk-like polyester fiber and the tussah silk were investigated respectively. The results showed that the tussah silk-like polyester fiber is similar to tussah silk in flat cross sectional shape, however, its shape uniformity is much better. Compared with the tussah silk, the tussah silk-like polyester fiber has better orientation factor, elastic deformation, resiliency, compliance, coefficient of work, breaking strength and the rate of breaking elongation but lower sonic modulus and plastic deformation. When the constant elongation rate increases, both the elastic deformation and the resiliency of the two fibers decrease significantly, while their plastic deformation rises to some extent.
Modification of scutching tow with refining technology
CAO Ying;WU Li-li;ZHANG Shuang;YU Jian-yong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 97-99.
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The effect of refining modifying pretreatment of the scutching tow on its properties was researched. The scutching tow was treated by three different methods, i.e., assistant (in hot water) + alkali treatment, the liquor of H_2SO_4 + alkali treatment, and alkali treatment. The experimental results indicated that the properties including remnant gum content, fineness and breaking strength of the scutching tow treated by pretreatment are much better than those of untreated.
Production and application of chitosan fiber medical dressings
QIAN Cheng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 100-101.
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1272
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For developing high value-added and functional medical textiles, hydroentangled method was used for manufacturing chitosan fiber medical dressings. Main factors influencing the production were experimented and discussed, and chitosan fiber medical dressings with good performance for application were successfully produced on trial basis. The analysis of the present situation of the use of medical dressings indicates that chitosan fiber medical dressings will have bright prospects.
Improvement of the rotor spinning supporting device
ZHOU Song-bing;SUN Zhi-hong;SHI Ni-na
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 102-105.
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At present, the actually radial positioning method of the advanced rotor spinning supporting device is to support the rotor pole using the wedge-shaped crack formed by two pairs of rotating support wheels which are along with the direction of axis. The advantage of this technique is to achieve high speed of the rotor by using low-speed bearing,thereby reducing the requirement of the bearing and prolonging its life-span as well.While putting this in real practice,the rotor pole applies too much pressure on the supporting wheels and this will result in the premature wear of the wheel′s surface.This paper introduces a method to improve the rotor spinning supporting device,this improved device not only reduces the pressure on the wheel′s surface and effectively prolong its life span,but also reduces flexural deformation of the rotor pole and increases the dynamic stability of the spining system.
Prediction model of sewing needle size based on grey relevant analysis
DONG Ying;ZHANG Wei-yuan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 106-109.
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The prediction model of sewing needle size was developed by using gray system theory. 45 kinds of different fabrics were selected and their mechanical properties were measured by KES instrument. The size of sewing needle for each kind of apparel fabrics was chosen by the experienced technicians in a garment factory and sewing experiment was conducted for confirming its correctness. Grey relevancy between fabric mechanical property indexes and sewing needle size was analyzed and the parameters were screened and selected based on the degree of relevancy for prediction model. The precision of the model developed on the parameters with the relevant degree more than 0.90 was superior to that on all parameters. The results showed that the application of grey relevant analysis was valid. The average error was 5.61%.
综合述评
Coolness and comfort properties of wool
ZHANG Na;WANG Jia-jun
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 110-112.
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For improving wear-comfort of the wool fabric in high temperature environment and exploit its serviceability field, this paper discusses the coolness property of the wool and chief methods for further improvement of the coolness and comfortableness of the wool fabric. Because of its excellent hydroscopic property, the wool fabric feels cooler than polyester and facilitates the development of air conditioning product. Along with the development of textile technology, there are many approaches for realizing this goal. Besides the previous wool scale peeling-off method, they include functional finish, slenderizing of wool, compound weave, and so on. The development of cool wool fabric is beneficial to designing and manufacturing the high-end summer apparel wool fabric which is thin and light, breathable and feels cool. It is a feasible and meaningful practice which will surely promote the development of the wool textile industry.
Bioactivity and andti microbial properties of silcer contained wound dressings
QIN YI MIN
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 113-116.
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In an attempt to decelop adcanced silver contained antimicrobial wound dressings this paper erciewed the use of silcer in the medical field The antimicrobial mechanis m and the ability to promotr wound healing wrer andlyzed along with the side effects and the local ststemic toxicity when appliying sicer contained wound dressings Results showed that silcer has a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity and low oftoxicity to the human body the use of silcer contained dressings on wounds is effecive in inhiting microbial growth preverting wound infection and cross infection in hospital wards and at the sa me time promoting wound healing
Deconstruetionism fashion in post modern asdthetic perspective
SU Jie
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(11): 117-120.
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Deconstruction applied in fashion dresign refers to a process of constantly breaking old structures and producing new ones under the influence of postmodernism fashion dresigners apply the technique embodying the notion of deconstructionis m in therir professinal work resulting in the
subversion of traditional conception seek for theoretical basis for artistic expression through constant deconstruction create a brand new style which gices prominence to youth fashion and dicersity and render the fashion an uttrely new fashionable meaning and seathric criteria in the ciew of posmodem aesthetics this article analtses the backgrounds characteristics and expression forms of deconstructionism fashion And it
also studies the design backgrounds characteristics and expression forms of deconstructionis m fashion and it also studies the design intrnsin and artistic creation means of the decontructionis m fashion in an attrmpt to give a beneficial refrernce for creating innovative designs for fashion